Dremel holder: do-it-yourself to expand the capabilities of this tool. Do-it-yourself homemade dremel Complete analogue of the factory "dremel"

For the production of drilling work on miniature workpieces, engraving machines, the so-called "dremels", are usually used. The name comes from the name of the most popular manufacturer. This is a convenient hand tool, but its cost is usually high (especially for quality branded products).

The most common area of application is amateur modeling and production of printed circuit boards. As a rule, an industrial design for such work is redundant: some of its capabilities are not in demand. Therefore, home craftsmen often create an instrument with their own hands.

Of course electric motor. Power supply preferably no more than 12 volts: at least for security reasons.
Power Supply, if possible with a voltage regulator (to change the number of shaft revolutions).
Frame(in the most primitive designs, you can do without it).
And the second most important detail (after the motor) - drill chuck.

Everything except the electric motor can be made independently. Although, the cost of the remaining components is so scanty that you can limit yourself to assembling a power tool from ready-made assemblies.

Let's take a look at some of the tried and tested options.

A complete analogue of the factory "Dremel"

For manufacturing, you will need a motor powered by 5V or 12V, which can be removed from a broken children's toy, miniature fan, printer, tape recorder, or simply bought on Aliexpress. If you plan to use the drill not only for drilling printed circuit boards, you can make a convenient case from a polypropylene water pipe. We select the diameter so that the motor tightly clings to the walls. Ventilation usually runs along the shaft. You can use an empty tube from under the building sealant.

End caps are sawn from any material: for example, PVC or acrylic. If the engine is powerful enough, a charger from an old mobile phone will not work. You need a current margin of at least 3A (for 5 volts). A good option is an old power supply from a computer (you can buy it for a penny on the radio market).

Tip: You can make a universal source for a home workshop from a computer power supply. Stable power supply 5V with a load of up to 20 amperes, and 12V with a load of up to 8 amperes. You can connect both the Dremel and the soldering iron.

The collet chuck is purchased at the store: the department of accessories for engravers and "dremels". If there is a need to adjust the speed, you can make a circuit yourself, or purchase a ready-made block.

The illustration shows a Chinese regulator and a power supply from an Internet router (12V, 1.2A).

With the help of such a homemade "Dremel" you can not only drill miniature holes. By installing the appropriate nozzle, you can work with a cutter, cutter, or cutting disc.

Toothbrush drill

At first glance, it sounds absurd. But we will talk about an electric brush, inside which is a completely reliable motor. It is enough to get to the steel shaft, on which the gearbox with rotating bristles is put on, and the workpiece is in your hands.

The same collet chuck is put on the shaft, and batteries are installed instead of batteries. Or you can adapt a suitable AC adapter.

Drilling walls with such a device will not work, but holes in a printed circuit board are easy. In principle, you can use any compact electrical appliance that has a conveniently located motor shaft. For example, an old electric razor.

Economical option without housing

Let's move on to creating a mini drill with minimal cost. We do not buy anything other than the motor itself (although it can also be found for free in old technology). Most compact electric motors are rated for 12 volts DC. Under it, we create a power supply.

Since there will be no additional options (speed controller, voltage stabilizer), the power supply is stabilized by a constant load. A typical 12 volt micromotor operates with no more than 2 amps of current. A simple calculation shows that the output power should be 24 watts. We add 25% for rectification losses, we get a 30 W transformer.

To get 12 volts under load, 16 volts must be removed from the secondary winding. You can make such a transformer in an hour, from any unnecessary power supply. Next - a rectifier bridge on any diodes: for example, 1N1007.

Our motor does not need rectified voltage ripple, so we connect a 25-volt electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of about 1000 microfarads at the output. It will smooth out the output current. Despite its simplicity, such a tandem works stably, with only one drawback: when the load increases, the voltage drops. That is, with uniform rotation - the power supply produces 12 volts. And if you are drilling “heavy” material, you need to monitor the speed, preventing them from dropping. Otherwise, the shaft will simply stop.

You can slightly complicate the power supply circuit by adding a suitable voltage regulator. For example, KR142EN8B or L7812CV.

In this case, there will be no voltage drop when the drill is loaded.

If you drill only the textolite of printed circuit boards, you will not need to change the drill. So we fix it permanently. The adapter sleeve can be made from anything: a tube from a telescopic antenna, a needle from a medical syringe, a core from a gel pen.

Given the miniature design, no clamps are needed. Everything can be fixed with glue or tape.

With the universal use of a drill, which involves changing the drill or installing other nozzles, it would be more correct to purchase a universal collet chuck.

It is possible to use a standard chuck by mounting it on the shaft with an adapter sleeve.

The execution of the case depends only on your imagination. Most craftsmen leave a "bare" utilitarian design: the supply voltage is safe, the size of the motor allows you to hold it in your hands without a case.

If you want elementary aesthetics, there are many options: and they are all shareware.

A homemade tool does not just save money. It can be made exactly to your needs, unlike universal factory options.

Greetings dear readers! It's nice when a person has his own hobby, I'm really happy for these people and I find them interesting and fulfilling. I also love to do things in my free time. But I rate my skills between two and three. Either you want to cut a carved bench into a bathhouse, or a stool from an array into a garage. It seems that no one needs a craft, but the soul is resting. To do this, use the usual carpentry tool. And when it comes to small local crafts, be it sculpture, engraving, carving, polishing. This is where the dremel becomes indispensable. When I was offered to make a review on the dremel that had already been on the pages of Muska, I agreed, because the truth does not fade from repetition. Under the cut there will be disassembly and examples of use and attention, a lot of photos !!!

Packaging and equipment

The Dremel comes in its original packaging with a picture of the tool and some promotional information.

The main characteristics are drawn on the side of the box.

On the other side of the box is the same print.

Description of accessories from the second side.

Above, only the name of the manufacturer in large

The box contains a set of 30 different abrasive nozzles.

The set is closed with a transparent plastic lid, each nozzle sits in its seat

Here is a closer nozzle. Everyone will find a suitable one.

The length of each nozzle is about 45 mm

Included is a convenient nozzle for vertical milling, with setting the distance of immersion in the material.

They gave us goggles as a gift.

And then in a bag in bulk they put us a lot of adaptations for a home master
Here is all this scattering

Cutting discs

Different size collets, Spare brushes

Polishing felt wheels and original nozzle + special nozzle for fixing wheels

A large set of emery wheels in two sizes and special nozzles for them

Includes 2 wrenches for tightening nozzles in the chuck

Nozzle for setting cutting wheels.

Brush attachments

Various options for cones

2 drills

The most pleasant accessory for me is the flexible shaft.

It allows you to work without straining, just holding it like a pen.

Appearance
Dremel Made in bright red color.

The sticker shows the model.

There is a special black skirt in order to comfortably hold the dremel tip

Here is the spec sticker. The Dremel has a power of 180W and develops up to 30,000 rpm.

- Here is the speed controller

There is a special bracket for hanging the dremel when working with a flexible shaft

Metal "button" for tightening nozzles in the cartridge.

European fork

To replace the brushes, you don’t have to disassemble the Dremel, there are special 2 compartments for their hot replacement, you just need to wrap 2 covers on the sides

Disassembly

Exploitation

In order to show the "ability" of the dremel, you can come up with a lot of scenarios.
I have 2 cats “on the farm”, or rather a cat and a cat, since we live in the private sector, they are left to their own devices and walk freely on their own. If the cat is not yet very active, then the cat is a real CAT. Can leave for a week, come thin but satisfied. And so that in these wild times his mistress would not add gray hair, I decided to try to make a plate on the collar, on which the nickname and our phone number would be written, if someone finds this beast, when he goes crazy from hormones and cannot return home, they will call "his family." In general, there has already been an attempt at such plates, I ordered from an advertising agency, they were made of plastic and swore that it was of high quality ...
Like these ones

But in fact they served no more than a week and were lost and gnawed.

I got very high quality strips of stainless steel, 1mm thick.

But the trouble is, I tried to drill a hole, and ... failed, 5 dead drills, from different manufacturers and 0 effect. I thought that here I was waiting for a fiasco. But the dremel pleased.
I loaded the cutting disc, and let's cut :)

Cut out an approximate shape

Ennobled a little

On the other side

I took out the engraving tips from the set and began to try my hand ...

Oh, this is hard work...
It can be seen that clumsily, but this is a test sample.
I still have to drill a hole for the ring from the collar.
It’s unrealistic to do this with just a drill, so at first I shot it with a small cutter. And then, when a tiny hole had already become visible, he “finished off” with a drill. As a result, the drill is killed :)

But the result is achieved, though ugly, but the result.

Here is the disk after all the work, it is clear that once I freaked out and jerked sharply, a triangle broke off from the disk ... in general, ghxyst disks do an excellent job with such a strong stainless steel, with hardened self-tapping screws, but fragile in this direction.

Then I decided to “grind” the surface a little, the nozzle with sandpaper did an excellent job with this.

Then he ennobled a little with a cutter

It took a lot of work to carefully engrave the number on the back, but it didn’t work out to hang the craft on the cat, he hasn’t been at home for half a week ...
After such work, here is the state of the cutting disc.
It was

It became

Then I made a small table out of plywood. But there were no suitable screws, they were slightly longer than the thickness of the plywood. I was too lazy to go to the store, the table was not for the exhibition, to help myself.

In the end it looked like this

there is nothing pleasant here, you can easily hurt your hand ...
so a couple of light movements with a dremel with a cutting disc and voila.

Maybe the photo does not convey, but by touch there is no feeling that something is sticking out. Everything is smooth. A self-tapping screw cuts off such a disk in seconds, with a fountain of spray.

And I considered the third option for using it purely in everyday life. My son has a railroad. In fact, it is plastic, and in the semaphore zone, the son broke off the plastic lever for stopping the train “on red”, just gluing it did not work ...
The photo was not there screenshots from the video so I hid it under the spoiler

If you've ever been to a tool store, you may have seen a Dremel. This is a multi-purpose rotary tool with a large number of attachments and attachments. It can be used to process wood, metal, glass, electronic components, plastics and many other materials. This tool is perfect for needlework and small repairs, it is convenient for them to work in confined spaces and hard-to-reach places. Master the Dremel and try it out, and you will appreciate this versatile tool.

Steps

Part 1

Basics

Choose a Dremel. Dremel was one of the first manufacturers to make rotary tools and is still known mainly for these tools. The company also manufactures many other tools, including electric screwdrivers and jigsaws. Check out their products and choose the right tool for you. Prices vary widely, so it's important to make the right choice. Pay attention to the following characteristics:

mains powered or wireless option;
light and portable, or more durable and massive tool;
operating time without recharging;
fixed or variable speed: the former is cheaper and easier to use, while the latter is better for finer work.

Read the instruction manual. The Dremel comes with a variety of drills and other attachments and tools, as well as an instruction manual. Be sure to read the instructions before using the tool and familiarize yourself with the controls. Learn how to turn the tool on and off, change speed and change attachments.
- Your instrument may differ from earlier models, so carefully read the instructions that came with it.
Use appropriate protective equipment. Always wear work gloves or rubber gloves before working with your Dremel to protect your hands from sawdust, chips and sharp edges. Also wear safety goggles, especially when cutting, grinding or polishing.
- Keep your workplace clean. Make sure there are no children or other people around while using the tool.
Practice installing and securing attachments. To fit the bit, loosen the tool's collet and insert the bit's shank into the hole. Tighten the cartridge nut so that the nozzle sits firmly in the hole and does not scroll. To remove the nozzle, press the release button and unscrew the collet nut - this will loosen the clamp and you can remove the nozzle.

Use suitable nozzles. Different attachments should be used for different materials to be processed. The Dremel company produces many different attachments for working with almost all types of materials. For example, you can purchase nozzles for the following jobs:
- carving and engraving: use high speed carving and engraving bits, carbide taper cutters, tungsten carbide cutters and diamond point cutters;
- shaped milling: use milling cutters for contouring (straight, figured, angular, grooving, and so on); do not put anything on the milling head other than cutters;
- drilling small holes: use drill bits (they can be purchased either individually or as part of a set).
Before plugging in your Dremel, make sure it is turned off. Set the speed to minimum, connect your Dremel to the mains and test the tool at different speeds.

Clean your Dremel every time after work. When finished, remove the nozzle and put it back in the box. Wipe the tool after work - this will significantly extend its service life. Before disassembling the tool for general cleaning, read the instructions.
- Frequently blow out tool openings with compressed air to prevent damage to electrical circuits.
Part 2
cutting
1. Use your Dremel to cut small parts. Due to its light weight and small size, the Dremel is well suited for cutting small objects. However, this is a hand tool, so it is difficult to get a straight long cut with it. However, it is possible to make several straight cuts and then level the surface with a sanding attachment.
  - Don't use your Dremel to cut thick or heavy objects - a larger tool will work better for this.
2. Fasten the item. Use a vise or other fastening tool for this, depending on what exactly you are going to cut. Do not try to hold the object being cut in your hands.
3. Set the appropriate speed for the given material and tool. Too high or too low speed can damage the motor, cut-off wheel or material being cut. If you are not sure, check the instructions for the recommended speed for your tool and material.
  - If you are cutting thick or hard material, do it in several steps. If the material is too thick or hard and difficult to cut, a pendulum saw may be required instead of a Dremel.
  - If there is smoke or the color of the material has changed, then you are using too high a speed. Intermittent or slow motor operation indicates that you are applying too much pressure to the tool. Release pressure and adjust speed.
4. Try cutting through the plastic. Put a cutting wheel on your Dremel. Don't forget to wear safety goggles and earmuffs before work. Set the speed between 4 and 8 to get enough power without burning out the motor. When finished, clean up the sharp edges of the incision.
  - Do not press too hard on the tool to avoid damaging the Dremel and the cutting wheel.
  - For convenience, you can draw cut lines on the plastic. This will help you cut the material more easily and accurately.
5. Practice cutting metal. Attach a metal cutting wheel to the Dremel chuck. Before starting work, put on protective goggles and ear protection. Turn on the tool and set the speed to between 8 and 10. Make sure the metal part is securely fastened. Lightly touch the cutting wheel to the metal for a few seconds and make a small cut. At the same time, sparks will fly from under the circle.
  - Reinforced cut-off wheels are stronger than conventional abrasive wheels. The abrasive wheel may break when cutting metal.
Part 3
Sharpening, grinding and polishing
1. Use a Dremel for sanding. Grinding stones can be connected to the tool. Insert the whetstone into the chuck or holder of the Dremel and secure it. Set the speed to low so that the material does not overheat. Carefully bring the whetstone to the material and start grinding.
  - Grinding stones, grinding wheels, chainsaw chain sharpening stones, abrasive wheels and grinding points can be used for grinding. For grinding metal, porcelain and ceramics, carbide tools are best suited.
  - For sanding rounded surfaces, use cylindrical or triangular tips. Use a flat wheel to chisel or grind the inside of a corner. For grinding rounded surfaces, cylindrical or triangular tips are suitable.
2. Use a Dremel for sharpening. Choose the right sanding tool and clamp it in your Dremel. There are emery bits with different grits, and they should all fit the same cartridge. Insert the shank of the emery tool into the chuck and tighten the nut. Turn on the Dremel and set the speed to 2 to 10. To sharpen and polish wood or plastic, select a slower speed. When working with metal, set a higher speed. Hold the workpiece securely and bring the sanding attachment close to it so that it is firmly in contact with the surface to be sharpened or sanded.
  - Make sure that the abrasive nozzles are of normal quality, otherwise they may scratch and damage the surface to be treated. The bits must not be worn and must be firmly inserted into the tool chuck. Keep a few sanding attachments on hand so you can quickly change them if needed.
- Keep your workplace clean. Work outdoors or in a well ventilated area. Drilling, grinding, cutting and sharpening leave small debris on you, on the floor and in the air around the workplace.
- Always wear protective goggles when working with your Dremel.

Good time of the day, dear readers of this article, today I want to tell you how to assemble a simple boron machine ( Dremel) at home. I needed it for glass engraving. I couldn’t afford to buy a factory one, in our city the cheapest one costs 7000 tenge (1500r) and the branded BOSCH is 22000 tenge (4500r). For that kind of money, honestly, the toad is strangling, I collected the same thing for 1500 tenge (300r). The most expensive engine turned out.

12 V motor, 1250 rpm. Also bought a cartridge. For convenience, I wanted to do it with reverse, with the help of 2 buttons it turned out to be not realistic. After killing the whole evening for experiments, I came to the conclusion of the simplest circuit, using 2 buttons and 1 switch.

Unfortunately, there are no photos of the assembly process, but I will try to describe in more detail. For the base, a plastic tube 100 mm long was taken. It had 3 holes drilled for the switch and control buttons, as well as a longitudinal cutout for the switch.

Everything is assembled by surface mounting, a tangle of wires is located just inside the pipe. A hole was drilled in the cap of a Coca-Cola bottle for a power socket.

At the very beginning, a 12 V 1 A power supply was used, but, unfortunately, it left along with the first work-painting for the girl. After that, the plug of the water socket was found and the power began to be taken from the computer PSU.

For convenience, the wire was crimped with fork lugs on the second side. When the power button is turned on, the power indicator lights up.

This completes the assembly of the device, photos of the finished device:

I mainly use abrasive tips, although there are no others on sale separately.

When cleaning in the garage, an old tool case was found, the device just fit in it like a native.

Video

Also, the device can be used for drilling printed circuit boards. And finally, the work performed by this engraver.

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