Over the past 5000 years, the methods of paving even surfaces with bricks have not changed, although they are now used in a slightly different way. Now such methods are used for the device borders of flower beds and pools. However, most often brick paving with or without mortar is used for arranging paths and platforms.

Brief job description

For paving, a special brick is produced - clinker, which comes in different thicknesses, as a rule, thinner than usual, as well as different shapes and sizes. Similar results can be achieved when paving paths with concrete blocks specially designed for this purpose with standard sizes.

In warm areas, the brick can be laid directly on solid ground, however, to increase the durability of the track, it is better to lay the brick on a layer of sand and check the levelness with a level. And even in this case, every few years you have to dismantle the path and lay the brick again.

A more reliable way to lay bricks without mortar is to tamper with a rented vibrator. (described below) which allows you to get a paved driveway surface that can withstand even the weight of cars. Flat vibrators can only compact bricks with a thickness of more than 50 mm, and such paths or platforms must have borders of bricks laid on concrete (item 2 below). If the surface is paved by hand, then the curb can be made of bricks placed directly into the ground.

A durable surface can be obtained by laying mortar bricks on a concrete slab. The base may be old, such as an existing walkway or platform, or new, arranged in accordance with the rules for laying lightweight concrete slabs. In both cases, it is better to do this work in two stages: first laying the bricks on the mortar, then, after the mortar layer has hardened, filling the joints with a thick mortar.

Do-it-yourself cement mortar

Four solution recipes

Lime-cement mortar			Plasticized mortar
Normal solution	Volumetric ratio		Volumetric ratio	Mortar yield per 50 kg of cement
	1 part cement 1 part slaked lime 6 parts sand		1 part cement 5-6 parts sand with plasticizer
Lasting solution	1 part cement 0.5 part slaked lime 4-4.5 parts of sand		1 part cement 3-4 parts sand with plasticizer

Solution preparation

Pour the required amount of sand into the wheelbarrow (or other container), add lime or plasticizer. With a shovel, make a small indentation, add cement to it and mix until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Make a well again, add water and stir until all lumps disappear.

Approximately half a liter of water is needed per kilogram of cement. Add water gradually until a solution with the consistency of warm oil is obtained. To check the viscosity, make a curved furrow in the solution. If its edges do not blur and the solution slides freely off the shovel, then it is ready. If the furrow blurs, the solution is too wet - add some dry materials. If the solution does not slide off the shovel, it is too dry - add water little by little.

Types of borders

straight line

straight line

The simplest of the borders is a straight line of bricks set vertically with a wide edge to the surface of the masonry. If you lay the bricks with a narrow edge towards the surface, they will look more contrasting with the bricks that pave the site. However, this requires twice as many bricks.

smooth curve

smooth curve

Sector-shaped bricks can be purchased for the curve device, but they are expensive. A smooth curve can also be obtained from ordinary brick by laying it as shown in the figure and filling the seams with a strong mortar made according to one of the recipes above.

sawtooth curb

sawtooth curb

A row of bricks laid on edge at a 45-degree slope creates an optical illusion where the curb appears to be made up of a row of triangular bricks. To increase this illusion, remove the soil a little less depth so that the curb is above the ground level.

Attention: when laying such a row, the lower ends of the bricks must be firmly held in concrete, and the upper ends are set strictly at the same level.

wooden border

Formwork for laying concrete fits perfectly into the construction of a brick-paved site. Install it just below ground level so that the boards and stakes are not visible.

wooden border

Pavement paving without mortar

1. Test laying

Measure and mark out the site as you would for a concrete slab, then calculate the required amount of bricks for paving without mortar . To estimate the final dimensions so that the soil can be removed, lay out a row of bricks along the border of the site and inside. When marking out the site, allow a gap of 100 mm beyond the outer boundaries. If you decide to pave with a simple pattern, for example, a rectangular one without dressing, you can save time by laying out only the borders, and leave the middle empty. But the side rows should be laid out completely.

2. Excavation

Remove the brick you laid out for testing and remove the soil layer 50mm deeper than the thickness of the brick. The depth is assumed to be the same everywhere, regardless of the terrain, and the walls of the recess should be as vertical as possible. Then, with a trowel, dig a trench along the boundaries of the paving area so that it is 100 mm wider than the bricks and deep enough to lay a layer of concrete 100 mm thick, on which the frieze bricks are laid, the upper edges of which should be flush with the rest of the bricks. Lay a 100 mm thick general purpose concrete layer in the trench and lay out a row of frieze (boundary) bricks while the concrete is ductile. They should form an even vertical wall around the site. Install a board to support the bricks on the site side and fill the trench at the outer edge two-thirds with concrete. Lay sod or soil on top and leave for three days to mature.

3. Sand cushion device

Pack the base soil, place a pad of sharp-grained sand (which is used to make concrete) and level the sand. The level of sand relative to the curb should be such that the bricks laid on it are 10 mm higher than the curb before laying them with a vibrator. If you are going to lay the brick by hand, then after laying on the sand it should be flush with the curb. When laying the site, place two parallel bars on the ground and level the sand with the help of a rule board. To level the sand base of the path, use .

4. Laying bricks

Lay the first two bricks in the corner of the site. After that, pull the cord for even laying of the entire row. Continue laying the next rows of bricks until you reach the edge of the site - there should be a gap of 10 mm between the last row and the curb.

If tamping with a vibrator is not provided, check the level of the horizontal laying of each brick. Knock down bricks with a mallet and, if necessary, add or remove sand. Then, if there is no vibrator, go to the instructions to complete the job. (below, after 5 and 6 points).

5. Working with a vibrator

Rent a gasoline-powered flat vibrator and walk around the site two or three times to place the bricks firmly in the sand. They will drop approximately 10 mm and the surface of the site will be flush with the curb. Do not walk on bricks before ramming with a vibrator.

6. Filling the joints with sand

Sprinkle the area with a thin layer of sand and make two more passes with the vibrator to fill the seams. Work with a helper, whom you ask to put sand under the vibrator, as when tamping sand moves out from under the vibrator forward.

Completing the site paving when working without a vibrator

Filling the seams with sand

After laying and leveling all the bricks, scatter a bucket of sand with acute-angled grains on the site. Use your hand or a brush to fill the joints between the bricks with sand. (below left). After filling all the seams, carefully sweep away the remaining sand by moving the brush diagonally. (lower right) so as not to sweep the sand out of the joints. It may be necessary to fill the joints with sand twice after the sand has shrunk.

Mortar paving

1. Arranging a curb around an existing concrete slab

When bricking an existing slab, check its condition and levelness. If you want to make a new concrete pad, make it with general purpose concrete without formwork, as described above. If the site is at ground level, it is not necessary to make a curb, but if its level is above ground level, it is necessary to hide it with a beta and protect the bricks of the outer rows from moisture and wear.

Make a groove along the perimeter of the slab approximately two brick thicknesses wide and deep enough so that the brick placed on the end is flush with the surface of the finished site. (When calculating, add 10mm of mortar to the thickness of the brick.) Rinse the curb bricks thoroughly and set them in the groove with a gap of 10mm (use your index finger or a piece of wood of the appropriate thickness to set the gap). Press the curb bricks against the concrete slab by filling the groove with concrete and compacting it. At the same time, check the height of the bricks above the concrete platform with a level and a ruler; it, as already mentioned, should be equal to the thickness of the brick plus a layer of mortar 10 mm thick.

2. Preparation for laying bricks

Lay the bricks dry to check the width and length of the site, leaving gaps between them of 10 mm. If necessary, you can slightly reduce or increase the gap in order to fit an integer number of bricks in each row. When laying on the mortar, you can leave one of the test rows for the sample.

Prepare a strong solution (according to one of the recipes above) in batches of 0.02 cu. m for laying 2 sq. m of brick with a mortar layer thickness of 10 mm. If the total paving area is less than 4 sq. m, you can prepare a solution for the whole job at once. In other cases, cook no more than 0.02 cubic meters. m. This amount is enough for you for about an hour of work, after which the solution will begin to set. Level the mortar and make grooves in it with a notched trowel or the end of a trowel.

3. Brick laying

Wet the bricks and lay them along the cord on the mortar with a smooth surface upwards. Lay a full row and only after that start laying the next one. Press the brick into the mortar with your hand and slightly upset it with the handle of the trowel. Level check the horizontal position when laying each brick.

4. Filling the joints with mortar

A day later, and preferably two or three days after laying the bricks on the mortar, prepare a hard mortar to fill the gaps between the bricks. The mortar must be drier than the mortar normally used for masonry. Mix 1 part cement with 3 parts sand and add just a little water. A ball of such a solution should break easily.

Wet the bricks and fill the gaps between the bricks with hard mortar. For work, you can use cutting or jointing, which you need to tightly push the solution. Fill the joints with mortar so that they are slightly overfilled. Use a trowel to remove excess mortar, being careful not to leave it on the surface. Expand the seams, deepening them by 1-2 mm, so that rainwater can drain through the resulting grooves. For deepening, you can use a stiff brush. Wipe off all traces of mortar with a damp sponge and spray the area with a spray hose. Leave to soak for a day or two.

DIY brick path: step by step instructions, mortar recipes

Brick is traditionally considered a building material used in building walls, building fences and barriers. However, its possibilities are much wider. One of the popular applications is paving paths. For those who are not afraid to try their hand at new types of work, it will be useful to learn how to make a brick garden path. Moreover, there is nothing super complicated in the independent performance of such an operation.

Preparation of tools and materials

In order for the work to be argued, and the result to please for many years, it is important to have a set of necessary tools at hand. As for materials, they usually take old bricks or those that remained after the completion of construction on the site.

brick pavement design

What tools are needed for paving

To perform the work, you will need the following set of tools:

• shovels (shovel and bayonet);
• tamper;
• a hammer;
• hacksaw;
• rubber mallet;
• building level;
• rule;
• roulette;
• thin cord;
• metal or wooden stakes.

Laying scheme

To facilitate the work, the manual rammer can be replaced with an electric or gasoline one. And to cut bricks to the required size, use an angle grinder (grinder).

Materials required for work

In the work you will need the following list of materials:

• brick;
• sand;
• cement;
• gravel;
• geotextile.

Paving option with old brick

In most cases, the remains of stone after construction are used for paving a garden path. Also good at work is the old brick obtained by dismantling buildings erected in the first half of the 20th century or even earlier. By the way, it is not necessary to use whole stones. Paths in the country and from broken bricks will look good. Elements of different sizes will give a special charm to the finished product. And if these are old stones that differ in color, then this will make your paths unlike any others.

The sequence of actions during construction

You need to start by planning a future track. If heavy traffic of people is not expected, then a width of 80-100 cm will be sufficient. Be sure to pay attention to the proximity of large trees. The distance to them should be at least 60–70 cm. Otherwise, the powerful roots of a growing tree can destroy the path. It is best to plan future walking routes before fertile soil is brought to the site. This will reduce the volume of earthworks.

garden path planning

Substrate preparation for laying

For ease of operation, the contour of the future track is marked with stakes and a stretched cord. It is desirable to repeat its shape as accurately as possible. After that, a layer of earth is removed with a shovel within the area limited by the cords. The thickness of the removed layer depends on how the bricks will be laid - flat or ruba, and the thickness of the gravel-sand substrate.

Then a layer of gravel is poured into the prepared bed. It will act as a drain. After laying and leveling, the gravel is rammed. The next layer is a geotextile sheet. This material will allow water to seep down without problems, and for germinating weeds, it will become an insurmountable obstacle.

The next step is to install the border. It will fix the stones, will not allow them to spread to the side under the influence of mechanical influences and natural precipitation. The functions of the curb can be performed by the same brick installed on the edge, or a traditional curb stone. Wooden boards fixed with stakes can become temporary sides. Instead, a concrete curb can be poured later.

Brick underlayment

Next, clean sand or a cement-sand mixture is poured over the geotextile. A ratio of 1:5 will suffice. The resulting layer is leveled with a rule. This tool will make the surface not only smooth, but also compact it a little.

Laying the finishing coat

Laying is carried out using a rubber (rubberized) mallet. Each brick is carefully tapped to the base. During the laying process, continuous control of the plane is performed. At the same time, it is important to remember about a slight slope to one of the edges for draining rain and melt water. Neighboring bricks should have a small gap of 1-3 millimeters.

For the final fixation of individual elements, the path is covered with a cement-sand mixture and swept with a brush. The mixture enters the cracks, fills them and fixes the bricks. To be sure, this operation can be repeated several times.

Styling nuances

In order for the water flowing from the surface of the track not to form puddles, a drainage channel is broken along the lower edge. Through it, water will be discharged to a predetermined place.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this work. But it is not in vain that they say that a professional can handle any job better. Therefore, it is better to entrust the pedestrian recreation area at your dacha to specialists.

A considerable part of the appearance of the courtyard in a country house is made by a path that connects all the buildings with the entrance and with each other. Most often it is a brick path. It is unlikely that anyone likes to walk through the mud, soiling clean shoes. To avoid such troubles, the paths in the yard should be paved. Laying the tracks yourself is a simple task, if you know the nuances and how to do it correctly. It is necessary to responsibly approach the preparation and installation - the main stages of work. Do-it-yourself brick paths are made after a pre-thought-out scheme for laying and selecting materials.

Training

In order for the laying of brick paths to proceed properly, you should make sure that you have the necessary tools:

• Shovels:
  • shovel;
  • bayonet.
• Rammer:
  • manual;
  • gasoline.
• Saw.
• Measuring tool:
  • roulette.
• Pegs and thread.
• Building level.

To facilitate the work, you can take a grinder instead of a saw, and a gasoline one instead of a manual rammer. Masonry pavement is easier to lay with automatic tools. The paths need to be level, so it's best to make sure the building level is correctly calibrated and shows correctly.

Brick walkway layout

Bricks are laid on a layer of compacted soil and bricks.

According to the laying rules, the first layer consists of compacted soil. The thickness of the compacted pillow should be at least 3 centimeters. A leveling layer of sand (about 2 cm) is applied over the compacted pillow. A curb lock should be installed on the leveling layer, which will be held by a layer of crushed stone (15-20 centimeters). To lay a broken brick path, a thicker layer of stone will be required. After that, another layer of sand is poured over the rubble, after which bricklaying and curbing are already installed.

What materials are needed?

In order for a brick path to be laid out in a summer cottage, first of all, you need a brick. Further, to mix the cement mortar, sifted sand and a dry cement mixture will be required. To lay one of the underlying pillows, you will need gravel or crushed stone (there is not much difference), less brick chips are used. Optionally, additional geotextiles are used.

What materials are used?

The materials used determine the budget.

For laying crushed stone of average fraction can be used.

To lay out garden paths in the country, use any kind of brick. Sand-lime brick paths are quite popular, as this is one of the most profitable ways to make a path. Often it turns out to lay out a path from the old brick left after construction work. Cement is recommended to use cement brand "PC 400". Crushed stone or gravel is chosen in the middle fraction; brick crumbs can also be used. If it is decided to use geotextiles, then it is better to take a special one for paving slabs.

Stages of work

Track marking

First determine the location and size of the future track. To do this, you need a tape measure and pegs with a rope. The path is planned further than 5 meters from the nearest tree, as the root system of trees can gradually destroy the structure. Do not neglect the width either: 2 adults should freely diverge on the track without leaving the surface. When marking, make sure that the rope between the pegs does not sag, otherwise the brick will lie crooked.

Foundation preparation

Before starting laying, they dig a trench. In depth, it should be more than 25-30 centimeters. Soil should not be thrown away, it will still come in handy. After the trench is dug, it is covered with sand and rammed, and geotextiles are laid on top. Do not neglect the use of geotextiles - this canvas will help maintain the integrity of the sidewalk and increase its durability. The thickness of the rammed pillow should exceed 3 centimeters.

The next layer is filled with sand.

Next, a leveling layer of sand follows, the thickness of which should not be less than 2 centimeters. After this layer is laid, a curb lock is installed on it. Parallel to the castle, the path is covered with rubble, after which it is tightly tamped. The thickness of the layer should be more than 25-30 centimeters. Crushed stone should not have sharp edges that can damage the geotextile, due to which it will lose its properties.

Publication date: 16-05-2015

How to make a garden path with your own hands?

If everyday walking around the summer cottage turns into an obstacle, because the owner of the site is buried in ankle-deep mud, then it's time to start building a brick path. Garden paths today are an integral part of the landscape of a country house. Such a path will not only make the passage from the gate to the house strong and clean, but also gives style to the landscape of the house. Moreover, a do-it-yourself brick path is built without much difficulty, and the cottage will look well-groomed and respectable. And for this it is not at all necessary to have “golden hands”, it is enough just to follow the step-by-step instructions.

To build a quality walkway, you need three things: borders, bricks, and foundations.

In order to build a brick path in the country with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• shovel;
• manual tamper;
• 1.2 m level;
• a hammer;
• drill;
• mechanical brush.

Necessary materials for laying the track

First of all, you need to choose a brick that tolerates harsh weather conditions well.

You need to measure the brick you like and calculate the amount needed for the track.

You will need a graduated base (this is a combination of stone dust and rubble) in order to create a porous, solid base. You will also need stone dust to make a porous smooth base between the bricks and the graduated base.

You can not do without combined lumber, which are used as temporary guides along the edges of the track. Combined materials are easier to bend than standard materials. You can choose the latter, but with your own hands it is easier to make a track using combined materials. Pegs will be needed to attach the rails, and screws will be needed to screw them on. To make a sand screed, you will need lumber. To give the path a finished and neat look, you can use a curb.

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Garden path construction overview

Each brick path needs a border to hold the material in place. During the construction of the path, guides are used that help hold the bricks.

To build a quality walkway, you will need three things: borders, bricks and bases. The material, which is adapted to harsh weather conditions, will not only last for more than one season, but also will not crack after daily walking. If “old-fashioned standard” bricks are used in construction (their length is twice the width) to get a solid surface and weeds do not appear, such material is recommended to be laid at maximum density.

Each brick path needs a border to hold the material in place. When building a path, guides are used to help hold the bricks while the path is laid. But then you still need to make a permanent restriction, which is formed from bricks turned sideways. At the same time, bricks must be buried deeper into the ground so that there is the necessary support.

Regardless of the quality of the material, garden paths will only be durable if there is a good foundation under them. The path in the country is laid at a distance of at least 60 cm from those trees that have large root systems. Another big threat is water - if it is not absorbed properly, it will seep to the surface, and when frost and warming come, this will cause the brick to bulge over the entire surface. In order to prevent this, it is necessary to redirect the drains; for this, a small slope is made on one side of the path.

Under the bricks there is a layer of graded base (a mixture of crushed stone and dust), and sand must be poured on top in order to ensure proper drainage. All layers must be properly tamped in order to have a solid foundation; it is easy to do it yourself.

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Construction of a garden path in the country

First you need to determine how wide the track will be, and then add 5 cm to this. Then you need to highlight its location in width with a rope, hose and paint. The top layer of earth is removed with a shovel between the markings, and you need to dig to the depth until the color of the earth changes. The soil that has been dug out must be laid on a tarpaulin so that everything around is clean, because then everything will also need to be cleaned with your own hands.

Now that the path has been dug, 5 cm of the graduated base is poured out, and its surface must be sprinkled with water. A manual rammer is taken and the base layer is evenly compacted, then a couple more centimeters of the base are added, and the process is repeated again until the compacted layer reaches a height of 7.5 cm.

Near the edges of the graduated guide base, narrow trenches are dug along the edges with a shovel. A wooden board 2.5 by 10 cm is installed on each side, then screeds are installed on top of them, and the boards are then hammered.

Now you need to start the screed, it can still be used as a spacer when the guides are installed. This is done as follows - a 5 by 10 cm wooden board is cut with a hacksaw so that it is 15 cm longer than the width of the path. Then notches are dug at the ends, the width of which should be 8 cm.

Near the edges of the graduated guide base, narrow trenches are dug along the edges with a shovel. A wooden board 2.5 by 10 cm is installed on each side, then screeds are installed on top of them, and the boards are then hammered. And then the brick garden path will look neat. In order to keep the rails in place, it is recommended to hammer wooden stakes to a depth of 15 cm, and they need to be installed every 90 cm. The pegs are attached to the boards with screws, then the boards are cut to the same level as the rails.

In order for the path to be even, you need to cut a small piece of wood for every 30 cm of the width of the path. Then put the level between the guides so that the wood is located at the top of the guides. Then, using a hammer, the guides are pressed to the ground until the level is even. Now sand is poured between the guides and compacted, and a screed is installed between the guides so that the surface of the sand is even. If necessary, sand is added and everything is compacted again.

During laying, the evenness should be checked regularly with a spirit level.

On both sides of the guides, shallow trenches (about 6 cm) are pulled out, the bricks are laid on edge in these trenches and aligned on the same level with the top of the guides (for this, the blunt part of the hammer is used). Then, using a level, the bricks are checked for evenness. The material is laid along the edges until the entire track is laid out.

The recesses on the sides expand so that the screed is installed between the bricks on both sides. The actual laying of bricks begins between the edging: the brick is held above the sand, pressed against the edge of the edging and placed flush with the beginning of the path. Then the bricks are pressed with a hammer so that they are flush with the edge of the edging. During laying, evenness is checked regularly with a spirit level. Bricks should not be dragged along the sand, otherwise the joints will be filled with sand, which will lead to leakage.

A layer of stone dust or sand is poured over the brick, then sand or stone dust is scattered between the joints with a large broom. The path must be watered with water from a hose, and then, when the sand becomes wet, place it in the joints until they are densely filled. It must be remembered that garden paths must be not only beautiful in appearance, but also durable.

The sand sets for about one week, and after this time the seams are filled with sand again. When another week has passed, you can unscrew the pegs and guides. Thus, it becomes clear that in the country, built with their own hands, they are not something very complicated. And you can also decorate garden paths with colored bricks, which will look very original, and here everything is limited only by imagination. And this step by step guide will help you. You can not only build, but also decorate.

Garden paths are an integral part of landscape design. They are built from different building materials: stone, concrete, brick, wood, and so on. This article will talk about brick paths. Or rather, about the technology of their paving.

Source housesdesign.ru

How to lay a path in the garden from ordinary brick

So, let's start with the fact that this requires a solid brick, that is, without any holes and voids. It must be of high quality, because the long-term operation of the garden alley will depend on this.

Additionally, you will need sand and geotextiles. Instead of sand, you can use gravel, crushed stone or a mixture of sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1: 1.

Source stroyshans.ru

First stage - determine track width and apply its contours to the site. If this is an alley from the gate to the house, then its width can be torn up to 2 m. If this is a garden path, then within 80 cm.

Markup is carried out or chalk powder, or pegs, between which a twine (twine) is pulled. In this case, the path itself does not have to be straight. Bends, bends, turns, connections with two or three paths are common in landscape design.

The second stage for the construction of brick garden paths - excavation. Their volume depends on whether the brick will sink into the ground or remain on the surface. In the first case, the depth of the ditch under the path is 15 cm, plus the thickness of the brick. In the second case - only 15 cm.

The bottom of the trench is leveled and tamped. Then they fall asleep with a 15-centimeter layer of coarse-grained sand, which is also leveled and compacted. Better with water.

Third stage - brick laying. If it is not recessed into the ground, then you will first have to install limiters along the borders. These can be temporary items or permanent ones. The bricks themselves, laid on edge, are temporary. Or metal or wooden pins driven into the ground. You can even use boards. That is, with the help of these elements, the border of the alley is formed, plus stops that will not allow the bricks to “disperse” in different directions.

Permanent stops (limiters) should be discussed separately.

Source mdv63.ru

How to form the borders of the garden path

There are several options.

The first one is the easiest. The borders are formed from the bricks themselves. In order for them to have a high bearing capacity, brick blocks are installed vertically in length. That is, half is buried in the ground, the second half will stick out above the ground. No bonding solutions and additional materials. The main thing is to accurately calculate the required amount for both the track and the curbs.

Of course, the vertical position of the bricks in the thrust device is optional. They can be laid in length horizontally or with a slight slope. In the latter case, the corners of the blocks will drink outward, which will significantly distinguish them from the bulk of the building material laid on the plane of the path. The photo below shows just such an option.

Source induced.info

The second option is to use ready-made borders made of concrete or stone. On the market, you can pick up these elements of landscape design in length, width and thickness, which is very convenient. For example, massive curbs are suitable for wide alleys, miniature ones for narrow ones.

Source derevyanny.com

The third option is a monolithic filled curb. It is made from concrete mortar, which is poured into the installed formwork. Usually pouring is done to the entire depth of the excavated pit. The height of the protruding part may be greater than the thickness of the brick being laid. The width is within 5-10 cm. Subsequently, the concrete border is painted or lined, for example, with ceramic tiles. If the concrete product is well polished, then it is not necessary to cover it with anything for decoration. Concrete and brick themselves look good in a bunch.

The fourth option is special corner bricks. They are laid in the masonry of the garden path. However, they must be mounted along the edge of the structure. It is with their short side that they are held in the ground, preventing the finishing elements from moving apart.

Source ecoohotnadzor31.ru

On our website you can find the most . In the filters, you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.

Fifth option- these are special small sizes posts made of concrete. They can be round, rectangular or polygonal. For example, the diameter of round products varies in the range of 10-12 cm, the length is up to 30 cm. They are simply installed on the border of the path, often "planted" on a concrete solution. Be sure to align everything in height.

Source mdv63.ru

In principle, there are a huge number of options for forming the boundaries of country paths made of bricks. Let's add to those already mentioned:

a rock;

rubble concrete, this is when the stones are poured with concrete mortar;

paving slabs, installed on the edge;

paving stones;

plastic pipes closed with plugs.

Brick installation

So, the ditch for the path is ready, the boundaries are formed. It remains only to lay the brick itself. First of all, you need to decide on the layout of the masonry. There aren't many options here. The simplest - according to the type of bandage, when the elements of the cladding are laid with an offset of half the stone. And other schemes:

herringbone;

interspersed a whole brick and a half;

parquet styling;

curly.

We will not argue which option is better or worse, easier or more difficult, cheaper or more expensive. Just mark them in the photo below. And already each owner of a suburban area decides for himself what he likes.

Source urs-ufa.ru

And one moment. Which brick to choose for this in terms of its color. Here again, the owner of the cottage decides. But keep in mind that red brick garden paths look bright, they well divide the site into zones. They are difficult to hide even with vegetation, but it is this fact that makes it possible to focus on the layout of the paths. This option enhances the functionality of landscape design.

Many designers are trying to diversify the approach to the design of alleys. Therefore, bricks of different colors are combined. But here you have to be careful. Especially the paths of the local area. This element should not become the main design. It should emphasize the architecture and decoration of the house, and not set it off.

So, we go directly to the section of laying the path in the country house made of bricks. Immediately make a reservation that the main tool for this process is the building level. Because each brick must be placed on the horizon. At the same time, it should be in the same plane with the rest of the stones.

Source superdom.ua

Laying can be started from either end of the path. Exactly according to the chosen scheme, each brick is installed. Finishing elements are installed close to each other or leave a small gap between them. There is no need to strengthen the material with masonry mortar. If some brick is laid above the rest, then it is removed, the layer of sand bedding is removed and set in place. If, on the contrary, it turned out to be lower, then a little more sand or gravel is poured under the block.

If the width of the track is large, then the process of laying bricks can be carried out according to the level, which is a thread stretched between two pegs. That is, they hammer two pegs along the edges of the ditch, tie a thread to one of them, pull its free end to the opposite peg, set it horizontally using a level and tie it. It is along this stretched thread that they lay bricks in one row.

When the entire garden alley is laid with bricks, its plane is sprinkled with sand so that it fills the seams between the trim elements. Gradually sweep the sand from one edge to the opposite with a broom or brush. After that, it is better to pour plenty of water over the entire path. And then again fill it with sand so that it complements the shrunken layer.

Video description

The video shows how to build a garden brick path:

English track

There is such a term in landscape design. In fact, these are paths made of old brick. They are laid without borders and other limiters. That is, a path is formed in the form of a ditch, where sand is poured, and old bricks are laid on top of it. Their upper plane should be located on the level of the ground or be slightly higher.

This is the easiest option that does not require a lot of money and time. The only requirement is no vegetation that would grow between the cladding elements. Therefore, the bottom of the excavated ditch is covered with geotextile. This material will not allow plants to break through, but it passes water through itself well. The geotextile is laid in such a way that it also covers the walls of the pit.

If this non-woven material is not available, then a gap of 1-2 cm is left between the bricks, which is subsequently filled with a cement-sand mortar. Just such an option is shown in the photo below.

English brick path Source pinterest.com

Conclusion on the topic

So, we figured out the bricks for the paths in the country, considered the options and technologies for forming alleys, and also outlined several ways to make the boundaries of the paths. It should be noted that brick alleys are not the most durable, say, like stone or concrete. Under the influence of water, sub-zero temperatures, ice and snow, the brick quickly fails. It starts to crack, flake and break. This is especially true for material from the "used" category. But even from an old brick, the path will last at least 10 years. And this is with a small financial investment.