Finishing ceiling plaster. Ceiling plaster: advantages and disadvantages, surface preparation, composition selection, installation of beacons and fine finishing. Ways to level the ceiling

  • Ceiling plastering
  • Grouting a plastered surface

In order to describe as clearly as possible how to plaster the ceiling with your own hands, let's take a small room as an example. For this we need the following materials:

  • laser or water level;
  • rule;
  • lighthouses;
  • gypsum plaster;
  • self-tapping screws with a dowel;
  • gypsum plaster.

Plastering tools.

Before you start plastering, you need to carefully mark and prime the surface.

Marking the surface of the ceiling and its primer

First you need to correctly mark the ceiling.

Beacons on the ceiling should be placed in the direction of light falling from the window.

This is necessary so that if some kind of error occurs when installing the beacons (most often the middle beacon is installed with a violation), then it would not be so noticeable. Such subtleties must be taken into account, because when placing beacons across the room, the light falling from the window will reveal such an error.

Scheme for marking a room with beacons.

Beacons are installed depending on the width of the room. Up to three meters - two rows of beacons are placed, each row is installed at a distance of about 60 cm from the walls. The process of plastering ceilings with your own hands takes place in the following sequence: first, the middle strip is plastered, then two side strips. In rooms with a width of 3 to 5 m, beacons are placed in three rows. If the width of the room is more than 5 m, then there can be four rows, and so on.

As an example, we took a room 3.5 m wide, so we need to install three beacon rows. We install two rows near the walls, retreating from them about 20 cm, and put the last one along the center of the room, thus, as if dividing it in two. In this case, you can start the plastering process in the direction from the center of the room to its wall. In this case, the length of the rule allows you to do this. The first beacon in each row should be about 2.5 m, slightly less than the length of the plaster rule. The size of the second can be any.

Then it is necessary to note in which places the self-tapping screws will be screwed in, they are needed for the correct marking of the difference in heights in the room. On the ceiling, for your convenience, you can immediately write where which beacon will be located, so as not to re-measure them. After the marks for the self-tapping screws are applied, using a perforator, we make holes in the places of the marks and determine the dowels in these holes.

The sequence of applying primer layers to the ceiling: 1 - the first layer; 2 - the second layer; 3 - the direction of the rays of light from the window.

Before you start screwing in the screws, you need to treat the entire ceiling with a primer. There are a lot of primers for plastering work in hardware stores, so choose it in accordance with the surface that you are going to plaster. If the surface is smooth, then a stronger primer is needed, such as betokontakt. When processing the surface, you should not spare the primer. After you have completely processed the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, you need to let it dry.

When the primer is dry, you will need to find the lowest point in the room. To find this point, you can use a laser level, if you do not have one, then a simple, water level will do. To measure the water level, you need to bind it to the rule and measure it, starting from the corner of the room, while marking the height level of each section near each hole for self-tapping screws. The purpose of these measurements is to find the lowest point where the thinnest layer of plaster will be. If you make a mistake when measuring, then the plaster may be overused, the layer will come out very thick. Or at the end of the work, you can rest against the plane of the ceiling, on which even the thinnest layer of plaster cannot be applied.

Methods for applying decorative plaster on the ceiling.

When the lowest place near the drilled holes is found, we screw in the self-tapping screw there so that it peeks out by about 5-7 mm. This thickness has a plaster beacon. Since the self-tapping screw was screwed into the lowest point of our ceiling, the other self-tapping screws will peek out a little more. We take the second self-tapping screw and screw it in at approximately the same level as the first. We check the horizontal line between them using the rule, we check the second self-tapping screw with a water level relative to the first.

Depending on what the level shows, we screw in or unscrew the screw, while not forgetting to check each action with a level. In the same way, we adjust the following screws, be sure to check the level between them. To markup using a water level, you will have to spend about 2 hours of your time. With laser, everything is much simpler, the whole process will take about 20 minutes.

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Ceiling plastering

Rotband plaster has the following features: it is impossible to apply more than 1.5 cm of plaster, while the second layer cannot be applied either. Such rules exist in European countries. With us, everything is much more prosaic, most often a second layer is applied up to 5 cm thick.

The principle of plastering the ceiling is the same as that of plastering walls, that is, apply plaster to the ceiling and remove excess. You can apply the solution with different tools, depending on the thickness of the layer. If the layer thickness is less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to use a steel trowel.

Scheme of applying plaster with a crumb gun.

It is necessary to impose a small amount of the solution on it and gently smear it on the ceiling with light movements with pressure. If your layer is more than 1.5 cm, then it is better to work with a spatula. When you mix the solution, you need to remember that a solution that is too thick will be poorly applied to the ceiling and fall off under its own weight. Therefore, the solution must be made not quite thick so that it adheres better to the surface.

If the thickness of the solution is large, so-called bubbles may appear. These are places where the solution did not adhere to the surface of the ceiling, it sagged under its own weight, and thus an air bubble formed. Most often, such bubbles appear in the corners. To avoid this, you must first apply a thin layer of plaster, and then apply the main one. The point is that the solution adheres very well to the solution and no voids are formed.

The second layer must be applied before the first one dries to better bond the layers. If you apply a second coat after the first one has dried, then cracks may form on the surface of the plaster, and you will have to remove the entire layer so that it does not fall off later on. And with bubbles it is even easier, you need to wait until the solution dries up and remove the place of its formation with a spatula to the very base. And then put a new plaster on this place.

The plastering process is best done with your back to the window, so the light will not bother you. Removal of excess solution occurs by moving the rule or trowel towards itself. The finishing movement, on the contrary, is done from oneself, so the light from the window will allow you to see the gaps between the plaster and the rule and quickly respond to possible problems.

After applying the plaster to the main places of the surface, there may be places along the walls that have not yet been plastered, you also need to remember to unscrew the screws. They can prevent you from leveling the mortar with a rule, and after grouting they can be visible even under a layer of putty. Holes from them and places along the walls are sealed after the plaster dries. After that, we remove all beacons and close up the resulting furrows.

Repair of any premises, whether residential or office, begins with the ceiling. Regardless of what kind of finish is provided for by the design project: whitewashing, painting or pasting with decorative panels, the surface to be treated must be prepared in accordance with all the rules.

Comparing the various methods of leveling the ceiling, you should find out what is the fundamental difference between plaster and putty? Both options for eliminating nervousness refer to the “wet” method, which is based on the use of various building mixtures and compositions. Ceiling alignment is considered “dry”, but they resort to such a cardinal solution to the problem as a last resort.

Surface puttying is performed as a finish before painting or wallpapering. The layer of material cannot exceed 3-4 mm. The peculiarity of such a coating is that its use is permissible on almost even surfaces with minor defects, inconspicuous cracks and small irregularities, since a finely dispersed putty mixture is not able to tighten and hide more significant problems.

Stucco screed is made on surfaces with height differences up to 45-50 mm. Thanks to coarse particles, the mixture easily copes with deep cracks and seams between slabs and ceilings. However, if the differences exceed 5 cm, it is not recommended to use plaster mixes - too thick a layer of material is not only aesthetically unattractive, but also dangerous due to the likelihood of cracking and peeling of the plaster from the ceiling, which can be a potential health hazard and lead to injury. In such situations, the best solution would be to install frame ceiling structures using slabs or stretch ceilings made of modern materials.

When choosing one or another method of finishing, you should take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of the material.

The advantages of plaster are in the following aspects:

The disadvantages of plaster mixes are as follows:

  • there is a restriction on the maximum thickness of the plaster layer - experts do not recommend exceeding a threshold of 5 cm - with large differences, it is not advisable to level with this material and is characterized by a large consumption of the mixture;
  • if it is not possible to perform the work on your own, the services of professionals will cost a significant amount, plus consider the cost of the material itself;
  • leveling the ceiling with plaster mixtures requires certain skills in working with materials and tools, and the process itself can take a very long time, since the main task is to make the surface smooth and even.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

To plaster the ceiling on your own, you will need the following materials:


Step 1. Surface preparation

The preparatory stage is of great importance even if it is a new building. Ideally, the ceiling should be cleared down to a concrete slab.

Traces of mold, fungus and rust smudges should be removed with a wet sponge, and then wash the ceiling area with special compounds. The old and peeling layer of plaster and other building materials must be removed.

Even if the coating looks durable and without noticeable signs of wear, experts recommend removing it. Firstly, sooner or later cracks may form on the ceiling, and secondly, such layering will steal extra centimeters of space.

The most suitable tool for the work is a narrow spatula. If the layer of finishing materials is difficult to remove, you can try to “beat” the treated area with a rubber hammer or use an electromechanical drill with a special brush attachment. It is very important not to forget to protect your eyes, head and respiratory tract from construction dust.

It is useless to blur the plaster with various solutions, since after such treatment a thin, smooth and difficult-to-remove layer remains on the ceiling surface, which will prevent high-quality work due to low adhesion, which can cause peeling and cracks in the applied plaster layer.

Relatively flat ceilings

The ceiling is plastered with two, less often three layers of the mixture. If there are minimal surface defects, it is allowed to apply plaster on selective areas, followed by leveling the material, but the craftsmen recommend applying at least one solid layer to the entire surface. If the irregularities are numerous and the estimated layer of plaster will exceed 10 mm, before starting work on the ceiling, you need to fix the paint grid - this will protect the coating from cracks and give greater strength.

Ceilings with large irregularities

If the surface differences are significant and are more than 2 cm, then alignment is best done using. Their installation is a responsible and important stage.

  • The planned minimum thickness of the plaster layer depends only on the specific conditions of the room to be finished and the wishes of the owners. As a rule, a layer less than 5 mm is not applied when plastering.
  • The amount of difference in the height of the ceiling, which must be eliminated by plastering.
  • Master's skill level. For a professional, no more than 5% of the solution will go to waste, and for a beginner, at first, 15% of the stock may not be enough.

The resulting value will initially be expressed in kilograms. But dry plaster mixes are sold in paper bags of 25 or 30 kilograms, and acquiring an open bag is a great stupidity, since no one can already guarantee the quality of the solution. This means that one way or another it will be necessary to round the amount of the purchased composition up to the whole number of bags. This stock will still not be superfluous - all the repairs are yet to come! This is also taken into account by the calculation program.

This method of surface finishing has been the most popular among a variety of homeowners for many years. It is not difficult to explain this state of affairs - the whole point is in the remarkable technical characteristics. Well, you should not forget about the moderate cost. Let's talk about how to properly plaster the ceiling.

Introduction

Many people doubt that plastering the ceiling is a reliable way to get the job done, they are skeptical about this. But speaking essentially, such a finish has a very right to exist. Like any other option, it has its advantages and disadvantages.

Pros of plaster ceiling

  • This is ideal for finishing drywall constructions. By means of plaster, all seams are easily sealed, as well as those places where self-tapping screws were screwed;
  • The material is environmentally friendly. The plaster will not release any toxic substances into the air. This is highly valued these days;
  • The cost of plaster is more than moderate. Compared with stretch ceilings, this option compares favorably with availability, in comparison with all analogues;
  • The height of the ceiling will not decrease if it is plastered. If the ceiling height in your room is not high, it is often this quality that is decisive.

Plastering ceilings - disadvantages

It would not be fair to the reader to speak only of the merits, and overlook the shortcomings.

Are there any downsides to plaster ceilings?? Here everything looks like this:

  1. If you know how to plaster a ceiling, you have probably heard that only those differences that do not exceed 50 mm can be smoothed out with plaster. This is not only due to the fact that the consumption of material will be too large - safety considerations also take place. For example, if a large layer of plaster falls from above, it is very dangerous: not only for human health, but also for his life!
  2. Plastering the ceiling with your own hands is not the easiest finishing job. Certain skills come in handy here. Otherwise, the finishing process can take a very long time.

Preparing to plaster the ceiling

What needs to be done before plastering the ceiling yourself? Of course, it is necessary to perform certain preparatory work - without this, there is no way, as in many other finishing procedures. Let's talk more about preparation.

Surface cleaning

In the case when plastering of drywall is planned, you only need to seal the seams, as well as those places where the screws are installed. After - apply any finishing material. But if the task is more global - it is necessary to bring a shabby, old concrete ceiling into an aesthetic appearance - you will have to work carefully.

In this work, you definitely can not do without:

  • Respirator;
  • Films that cover the floor. If there is no film, old newspapers will always help;
  • A set of sharp spatulas;
  • Perforator (a drill with high power will also fit);
  • Goggles (remains of old putty, concrete - all this will pour down, so eye protection is mandatory).

When all the elements and tools that are listed above are prepared and at hand, you can take up the process of cleaning the surface of the ceiling for its subsequent finishing.

The procedure here is:

  • A layer of old plaster is removed with a spatula (if necessary, you can always sharpen the spatula - to make it easier to work).
When removing old coatings, also try to remove all uneven areas that protrude above the surface of the ceiling - they are not needed here.
  • In order to seal the joints between the plates on the ceiling with really high quality, it is recommended to remove the old connecting materials. Of course, we are talking only about those fasteners that are weakly fixed. If some elements of the plaster cannot be easily dismantled, a perforator will always help you in such work;
  • As a rule, such a ceiling is performed for painting. That is why the old layers of finishing material always have to.
It all depends on what kind of coating on the ceiling was earlier. The method of removal may be different - this is an individual matter.

Just watch the video: cleaning the ceiling before plastering - perhaps you will learn a lot of useful things for yourself during this lesson, which will definitely help in the future work.

Consider the most popular materials that have to be cleaned from the ceiling surface, as well as the methods that are ideal for this:

  • To remove lime from the ceiling, proceed as follows: the ceiling is moistened, then the old layer is simply removed with a spatula;
  • If you need to get rid of water-based paint, the surface of the ceiling is also wetted with water. Iodine is added to the composition of this water (for each liter no more than 20 ml). After that, everything is cleaned with a spatula (the tool must be sharp - for the effect to be maximum);
  • To remove water-dispersed compositions, special solutions are used - some other option is hardly possible here.

What to do after the old coating was removed from the ceiling? Do so:

  • The surface must be checked for the presence of fungi (they simply pose a danger to human health). To get rid of the fungus, if any, the ceiling is treated with water, which contains copper sulfate (5 grams of vitriol for each liter of water);
  • When the ceiling dries completely, you can gradually take on the next stage of the plaster.

Leveling and kneading mortar

Before plastering the ceiling, you need to prepare the surface accordingly - we discussed this point in detail above. But it's not all there. The fact is that if the preparation is not completed completely, it will hardly be possible to count on the fact that the plaster of the ceiling will be durable and its surface will be even. In a word, it is the preparation that determines the success of the entire procedure.

If the height differences on the surface are more than 50 mm, then this method of finishing will have to be abandoned. It is better to choose for yourself the finish with plastic panels or the installation of a stretch ceiling.

How to level the ceiling before plastering? In general, the leveling process is a very important point on the way to the goal, and we are going to make the coating aesthetic.

For ceiling leveling You will need the following tools and materials:

  • Do not do without a dry plaster mixture;
  • A primer is required (deep penetrating compositions are recommended for use);
  • roller;
  • Two trowels (one made of metal, the other made of plastic);
  • Construction mixer to knead the solution (if not, a drill with a special nozzle will help);
  • Also at hand should be sandpaper, putty and sickle.

The work is done in the following order:

  • First, the surface is primed in two layers - this is necessary in order for the adhesion to be maximum;
  • While the surface dries, you can make a plaster mortar. You will find all proportions on the packaging of the material. Be sure to observe the proportions - this is the only way you can count on the fact that the result of the work will be excellent.
Many professionals advise using gypsum plaster compositions for plastering the ceiling - they respond more easily to the shrinkage that a new house can give. In addition, the adhesion of gypsum plaster is higher - this is a fact.
  • The mixing process is as follows: water is poured into a container, the mixture is poured into it and everything is mixed with a drill until the composition is completely homogeneous. The resulting mass should stand for five minutes, after which it is stirred once more - in order to surely remove all lumps.

Plastering the surface of the ceiling

When the primer has dried and the composition for application is prepared, you can take on the next step - applying plaster to the ceiling. He is also the most responsible in all the work - it was for this that we did all the procedures that were discussed above.

Installation of beacons

If it is necessary to finish the ceiling with plaster, then such elements are often used - this is necessary in order for the coating to acquire the highest possible evenness. Of course, an experienced finishing specialist can easily do without such a procedure, but an ordinary person needs it.

Beacons are installed in this order:

  1. A perforator drills holes around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. The step in this case should be slightly less than the length of the rule that you are using. This is due to the fact that you will align with them and it will be difficult. If you put beacons with a smaller interval, it won’t be worse for sure, because the more such structures you use, the more accurate the result will be
  2. Then, dowels are inserted into the holes obtained - self-tapping screws are screwed into them. Further, there is an overlay of "tracks" from plaster between lighthouses. They must be positioned in such a way that they are slightly higher than the caps of the self-tapping screws.
  3. Next, you need to take the profile strip and attach it directly to the track. The profile is pressed evenly until it starts to rest against the caps of the self-tapping screws. When the lighthouse is prepared, they begin to cover it with a solution
  4. This simple method is used to install all the remaining beacons. Now you have to wait a bit and you can proceed to a new stage of plastering the ceiling.

How to put beacons when plastering the ceiling - see the thematic video. After viewing, you will definitely be able to do such work with your own hands and the result will be no worse than that of professional craftsmen.

Plastering the ceiling

It's time to move on to the main, final stage - the plaster mixture is applied to the ceiling. This work is done like this:

  • The mortar is applied with a float so that its thickness is only slightly greater than the height of the beacons. Then it will need to be leveled - the tool is pressed against the surface very tightly so that there are no voids or shells left;
  • When the first layer has been applied around the entire perimeter of the ceiling, a plaster mesh must be installed on it. It is this element that guarantees the strength of the entire coating. The grid should be pressed a little to the solution - the point is that it should stick to it.
In certain situations, it makes sense to use a galvanized mesh - for example, when there are significant irregularities on the ceiling surface. In this situation, in general, the first layer is recommended to be applied directly to the mesh.

Effort at the same time much more needs to be put in- after all, a thick mixture of solution should seep right through the cells.

  • Once you have fixed the grid, it's time to take on the application of the second layer of plaster - it is applied on top of the grid. To remove all excess mortar, the rule is stretched along the plaster beacons. All excess will be removed as a result, the layer will be much smoother than before the procedure;
  • When this operation is completed, the beacons must be removed - after all, over time they will simply rust and the entire ceiling will suffer from this. The plates should be dismantled before the plaster dries completely. All furrows from lighthouses are simply sealed with the same solution - to make everything accurate, use a level in such work.

Now we can say one thing - you definitely have an idea of ​​​​how to plaster the ceiling correctly, competently, in stages. At the end of the work, you can apply water-based paint or some other substance similar in effect to the surface.

Only when they apply maximum perseverance and really try, they get the desired result - with ceiling work, this thesis is only confirmed.

That's all the work - nothing complicated. However, if for the first time something didn’t work out for you - you should not despair, without experience to perform plastering work, especially working with the ceiling - not every person can decide on this. Try to follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out!

Any repair begins with a rough finish of all surfaces. First of all, the ceiling is prepared and this process should be given enough time and effort, since it can be quite difficult to create a perfectly flat surface the first time.

Today we will find out how do-it-yourself ceiling plastering is carried out, how to mask or fix small flaws on the surface after its preparation, how to cheaply repair the ceiling after damage, and what preparation requirements are needed for certain finishing materials.

Choice between dry and wet

Before starting the repair process, you should study some of the features of ceiling alignment. At the moment, there are such ways to align it:

  1. Dry method - not used so often, but allows you to create a perfectly even base in the shortest possible time. Drywall is used as a consumable material, the joints of which are subsequently puttied. This investment cannot be called minimal and, unfortunately, it is not suitable for all dwellings. Plasterboard sheets are used in the case of running ceilings
  2. Wet option - ideal when you need to cover small defects or prepare the ceiling for painting. For surfaces with differences exceeding 4-5 cm, it is necessary to use plaster, and for irregularities of 4-5 mm, putty is used. An uneven ceiling does not stand out for its attractiveness, and when the height differences on it are more than 5 cm, a stretch ceiling or gypsum plasterboard should be chosen as a design.

Important! When applying a thick layer of plaster, the coating may begin to crack, crumble or fall off in pieces, which threatens not only to damage the repair, but even to injury. If you notice cracks on the plastered ceiling, you should not wait for it to collapse - dismantle it.

Features of plaster

Before you start using a plaster mortar, you need to find out all its pros and cons, and then clarify how to properly prepare the mixture with your own hands. There are a large number of recipes and proportions among home craftsmen, but today we will look at the preparation standards and the benefits of such plasters.

Advantages disadvantages
Eco-friendly and safe The maximum allowable layer of plaster is 5 cm
Compared to others, this is a cheap way to prepare bases. Do-It-Yourself Plastering Requires Skills
High-quality material can be used in the home where allergy sufferers and people with respiratory problems live The services of professionals are expensive, especially when it comes to ceiling planes, which take more time and effort.
soundproof
Slightly reduces ceiling height

Plaster for the ceiling is selected not only according to price preferences, but also according to the declared characteristics of the material. High-quality plasters are sold in hardware stores and have quality certificates.

The main types of mixtures

What kind of plaster for the ceiling of the house to choose and how much does it cost? - a question that worries any beginner in terms of repair work. Among the variety of finishing mixtures, the main ones can be distinguished:

  • Ready based on polymers - the preparation of the ceiling with their help is carried out at the highest level. The advantage lies in the ease of use of the solution, which does not need to be diluted. However, this is an expensive choice with large flaws in the ceiling - at the stage of full-scale leveling, ready-made mixtures are unprofitable.
  • Cement - soundproof, act as a heater, to improve the quality, you can add lime and sand. Lime and sand plasters do not shrink
  • Gypsum - gypsum has good adhesion to concrete surfaces. They are easier to work with, they are distinguished by an average pricing policy. Plaster perfectly lays down on concrete and brick walls.

Before you start plastering the ceiling, let's look at the popular and sought-after manufacturers of putty mixtures:

  1. Rotband from Knauf is a great alternative to long-drying mixtures. Among the advantages, a harmless composition, fast drying speed, compatibility with additional insulation are distinguished. As with any process, surfaces must be primed before plastering.
  2. Eunice - makes it possible to set a good start for finishing. The reason for this frequent choice is the increased strength of the material. In addition, there is no need to whitewash the base with finishing putties. With the help of Eunice, you can cover up depressions up to 5 cm and apply layers up to 3 cm without losing the declared properties. When properly applied, material collapse is minimized.
  3. Rotgypsum - for dry and wet rooms, when a special primer is used. The minimum consumption is 8 kg per 1 m2 with a thickness of 10 mm, it is manufactured in accordance with GOST standards, and has supporting documents. Unlike cement, it sets within an hour, which is why it should be worked out in a given period of time. Performs surface hardening. Rotgypsum can make a thick layer, which sometimes reaches 50 mm
  4. Volma - thanks to various packaging, you can buy plaster for 5kn, 15kg, 20kg, 30kg. This is very convenient when processing both small and large areas. The norms for the use of such a brand require the use in rooms with moderate temperature fluctuations. Most often, Volma is used to level curved walls, but it can also be placed on a curved ceiling. Before applying the material, it is not necessary to sand the bases and even prime them. For applied plaster, only a clean base is important
  5. Vetonit - various plasters are made, which are applied to brick, plywood, fiberglass, osb, fiberboard, gypsum boards, wooden surfaces and external walls. Dry mixes are easy to use, the finished solution has a service life of 2-3 hours, and the finished base can withstand up to 100 freeze-thaw cycles

Important! Photo and video lessons teach beginners how to level the ceiling with plaster on their own, how to calculate the right amount of the mixture, how to make an estimate for further work, what proportions to use when making plaster and how to hide a small flaw by creating a pattern on the ceiling with putty.

Sometimes it is simply impossible to carry out repair processes with your own hands due to a number of reasons. Then qualified specialists who will need to pay for their services can come to the rescue. Let's find out what prices for plaster ceilings per m2. A small table shows prices for certain processes:

In addition, textured, structural, Venetian putties and bark beetle can be used as finishing materials. With their help, a special style, beautiful drawings and patterns are created on the ceiling, which are in demand not only in ordinary rooms of an apartment, but also in a loft.

Alignment and preparation, tools

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands for painting with video and photo materials makes it possible to visually learn about the nuances of the whole process. But now we will find out what tools will be needed for alignment:

  • Primer and plaster mixes
  • Roller and brushes
  • plastic tray
  • Spatulas
  • Level
  • construction mixer
  • hand grater
  • rule

Important! When you do not have a construction mixer at hand, you can use a special stirring nozzle that is worn on a drill.

Finishing begins with cleaning the ceiling. From it you need to remove old wallpaper, peeled paint, wash off dirt, remove dust. Concrete contact primer is suitable for a concrete ceiling, which creates a good adhesive coating. It is required to clean the ceiling when the previous repair included puttying. To do this, use a cloth and water to wash off the coating and remove it with a spatula. There are adhesive mixtures that include antiseptic additives - with their help, mold and fungus do not develop on the surface.


When the base is already affected, the technology includes additional processing with specialized mixtures. The cost of such materials is low. Primers are applied in two layers, between which an hour and a half break should be maintained. When the base is completely dry, it remains to mark the differences, mark the place where there are large irregularities, mix the necessary mortar and plaster the ceiling. Follow this sequence:

  • Mark the lowest point of the ceiling - this will be the final height
  • Lighthouses need to be installed according to the level, fixed with plaster or alabaster
  • Choose a corner of the wall and start from it - the texture of the mixture should be thick, it is better to knead for lighthouses with your hands
  • In order for the floor to last for a long time, pay attention to what temperature you prepare the plaster and under what conditions you use it. When the room is more than 23-25 ​​degrees, then use a spray bottle to spray and moisten. To create a high-quality and continuous layer - set the grid
  • You can apply plaster using a machine method - mechanization of the process allows you to speed up the leveling work. The mechanical option is suitable for private homes when there is a compressor at hand
  • For one layer, a thickness of 10-20 mm is sufficient, when the irregularities exceed this figure, then you will need to plaster in several layers. As a result, the beacon should be a little buried in the building mixture. Too thin mortar will drip, so when you prepare the plaster yourself, control its density
  • On average, subsequent work is allowed 24 hours after leveling, however, in some places the ceiling may dry a little longer. It is better to putty large areas with dry mortars - they are much more economical

Important! All arched, decorative baguettes, plinths are glued after the lining is completed. Metal corners help to bring out the inner corners.

You can glue the tapestries or paint the base after the ceiling is completely dry and is solid white - if there are stains, you will need to re-prime and level. In panel houses, balconies, kitchens and other rooms do not differ in their evenness, in some cases it is better to cover significant height differences with suspended ceilings. Stretching a PVC ceiling takes less time and effort, but when there are beams in the room, it is better to call specialists. The advantages of stretch ceilings are that you can choose matte or glossy canvases, patterns or plain fabrics.

How to repair a ceiling? This question is often asked by the owners of houses and apartments who are planning to make repairs in the premises on their own. There are a lot of finishing methods, so choosing the right option is difficult. The problem of finishing the ceiling can be solved by installing a suspended structure or installing a stretch ceiling. If you do not want the ceiling height to become smaller, it is best to give preference to traditional technologies.

Of course, today plastering is not chosen as often as it used to be, and there are several reasons for this.

  1. Finishing the ceiling is a rather complicated process. A person who has no experience in the construction industry and has not been trained is unable to do a quality job. But even a novice builder can carry out the installation of a plasterboard ceiling, although the quality of the installation remains in doubt.
  2. Plastering the ceiling is one of the jobs that can be called dirty. Masters when finishing use liquid solutions. When applied to a surface, splashes can stain clothes, hands and face. The solution often gets on the floor and walls.
  3. In some houses the ceilings are very uneven. If the height difference is large, then be prepared for high costs for leveling materials.
  4. You can do all the work on your own, but in the absence of skills, you cannot do without the help of specialists.

What to look out for

Ceiling plastering is a repair process consisting of a number of stages. If you do not want to be disappointed as a result of plaster work, then you must take into account all the nuances. Preparation is very important, and the plastering process itself must be carried out in strict accordance with the technology.

Start by taking a close look at the ceiling. You must choose the best repair method, taking into account the recommendations of specialists. Pay attention to the following points.

  1. If the ceiling is uneven, the height difference at its different points is more than 5 mm, then it is better to choose not plaster, but putty. The fact is that plastering such a surface will require large financial costs.
  2. With a more significant height difference, for example, when the difference between two points reaches 5 cm, you should not choose plastering. The easiest way is to opt for a tensile structure or mount a suspended ceiling.

If you study the ceilings in the rooms, most often a small difference is recorded. It makes sense to use plaster if it is from 2 to 5 cm. Remember that plastering is a rather complicated process. By increasing the thickness of the layer, you will have to spend more time and effort on the job.

How to prepare the ceiling for plastering

The easiest way to make repairs is if you bought a room in a newly built house. You can plaster a reinforced concrete slab in a new building in a short period of time. But most often there are situations when it is necessary to repair the ceiling after numerous paintings.

The work is complicated by the fact that in most cases you have to deal with mold and large drops. In addition, to form an even ceiling, it is necessary to remove deep cracks that can often be observed between the plates. It is impossible to make the ceiling even if you see that the old plaster has chipped or crumbled. All the shortcomings listed above must be eliminated, only after that it makes sense to start repair work.

Table. Removal of old plaster.

Steps, illustrationsDescription of actions

First you need to wet the ceiling well with water. After doing this, wait 2 or 3 hours and then wet again. This method is very efficient. Firstly, you will dust the surface, it will be comfortable to work. Secondly, the old plaster will soften well.

Take a hard trowel and use it to remove the old plaster, carefully scraping it off the surface. Remove the plaster until a concrete floor appears. If the plaster does not come off well, take a hammer drill. Pay special attention to the seams between the plates.

Rinse the ceiling thoroughly. This can be done with a sponge, which must first be moistened with water. So you will effectively remove the dust left from lime or cement.

Take time to dry the ceiling. Buy an antiseptic solution and apply it to the surface - this will remove the fungus and prevent mold. The antiseptic should be poured into a separate container. To apply it to the surface, buy a foam roller. Many owners of premises during repairs apply an antiseptic only to the affected areas. But experts recommend treating the entire ceiling with an antiseptic solution. The cost of buying an antiseptic is minimal, and the effect of its use is long. It is best to stay on the antiseptic soil.

After applying an antiseptic solution, wait for the ceiling to dry completely. After that, apply a primer. Choose one that penetrates deep into the pores. This material adheres superbly, significantly strengthening the surface.

How to choose the right materials

Modern methods of plastering have nothing to do with the old ones that were previously used. Then the builders preferred mixtures of sand and lime. It was difficult to work with such solutions, labor costs were very high. Qualitatively plaster the ceiling could only experienced craftsmen.

Everything has changed these days. Manufacturers offer gypsum mortars that have significant advantages.

  1. Such plaster solutions rarely form cracks, they are not afraid of shrinkage of the building.
  2. It does not matter what surface you are going to apply the plaster on. Adhesion is strong, it is very important if a beginner is engaged in plastering.
  3. The material is environmentally friendly, it does not affect health. You can safely use gypsum solutions when repairing the ceiling in the children's room.

Primer and gypsum plaster for interior work "Knauf Rotband"

You can buy a solution in a specialized store, product prices are affordable. All mixtures are supplied to the market ready-made, you just need to add water, observing the proportion.

Table. The composition of various solutions for plastering.

How to install beacons

In order for the surface to be perfectly flat, install special beacons. With their help, you can easily determine horizontality. It is the installation of profiles that ensures that the ceiling will turn out without drops, the surface quality will be high. Today you will find perforated metal profiles on sale.

Installation of beacons is carried out in stages.

First, determine where the ceiling is the lowest in the room. Carefully measure the height to find out the distance from the floor to the ceiling. Determine the lowest angle - this is the place that will be the starting point. Set the laser level with which to determine the horizontal.

After that, install the profiles, they must be placed on the ceiling against the walls, mounting on opposite sides. To fix the profiles in place, use gypsum plaster. It is best applied with flip flops. Wait a little, and then pull the thread between the two profiles. Make a few rows - so you get a new plane.

The next step consists of mounting intermediate beacons. They need to be mounted with a certain step (from 20 cm to 180 cm). Many are interested in why it is necessary to postpone no more than 180 cm? The fact is that the largest rule is produced 2 meters long. The remaining 20 cm can be considered a margin. So you can easily block the distance between two beacons located in the neighborhood.

How to apply the solution to the surface

Buy ready mix. Add water to it, focusing on the instructions of the manufacturer. Pay attention to the fact that it is the mixture that is added to the water, and not vice versa. To stir the mixture, it is recommended to use a special construction mixer. If it is not there, then you can take a regular drill, but in this case you will need a mixer nozzle.

The plastering solution should be applied to the space between the beacons. It is easiest to work with a spatula, choose a product of medium length. Repeat the procedure as many times as needed to completely fill the surface. It is recommended to do so that there is a slight excess of leveling material. It is very good when he stands a little behind the beacons. Subsequently, you can remove the excess using the rule. To do this, lead it in a zigzag manner, moving towards you.

You should not make a layer thicker than 2 cm. If the height difference is more pronounced, then it is best to apply the mixture in 2 layers. After you apply the first layer, wait. The plaster must dry completely. Only then can you start re-applying the solution.

If you want to increase the strength of the plaster, to ensure that it does not peel off, then you need to put a grid between the layers. It is placed after applying the first layer of the solution, without waiting for it to dry.

When laying a synthetic mesh, pay attention to the junction of the two strips. Position the material so that there is a 10 cm wide overlap.

Then, when the solution dries, remove the beacons, and seal the voids remaining instead of them with the same solution.

Surface leveling

After the gypsum mortar has dried, you can proceed to the final stage. It consists in careful grinding of the ceiling, without which the surface will not be perfectly smooth. After that, you need to apply another type of plaster, which is called finishing.

This material is consumed minimally, because the mixture must be applied in a very thin layer. Use sandpaper to smooth the surface. Buy sheets with a fine fraction, the grinding process will not require much effort. Cover the finished ceiling with a primer.

What to look out for

Many craftsmen suggest using Venetian plaster for finishing the ceiling. But the mixture should not be used for finishing surfaces in the toilet and bathroom. The fact is that if even a small amount of water gets in, such plaster will be damaged. You will have to completely redo the cover.

Video - How to plaster the ceiling