How to build a garage in the country: a step-by-step construction of a capital building. Consider what material is cheaper to build a garage What kind of garage to make in a private house

A car for real motorists is not only a means of transportation, but also a reliable colleague, friend and "fascinating designer". The car is looked after, spark plugs, oil are changed, excellent fuel is poured. But the highest manifestation of care is the construction of a garage with your own hands. Such structures are rightfully called the most reliable, since they were erected by scrupulous vehicle owners who know best of all what kind of “living space” is needed for their four-wheeled “iron friend”. In addition, money is saved from the family budget, since unnecessary materials are not purchased and various expensive services are not used.

Assemble a garage constructor in a few days

Paperwork

A self-made garage that is built on a land plot that is not intended for construction is considered a self-build from the point of view of the law. The same applies to the situation when work is carried out on land that does not belong to the owner of the car. Permits for the finished building do not need to be issued if:

garage is not capital (metal and frame buildings);
the building was erected for non-commercial purposes on a summer cottage or garden plot;
The building is an auxiliary building.

All other options for unauthorized development are subject to legalization. A plot of land is also subject to registration, if such a procedure has not been carried out before.

Types of garages

Shelters for the car are built in different ways. It all depends on financial capabilities, personal preferences and the available area for development. The garage can be attached to the house from the end of a country or residential building or behind it, or built under the house itself.

There are built-in garages with offset floors, but such an arrangement creates inconvenience during operation. On sale there are collapsible designs. If desired, you can arrange a canopy. The price of building a garage of this type is tolerable. Such a structure is the simplest, but at the same time an unreliable option.

But the most popular are free-standing garages, which are best located closer to the entrance to the land, so as not to lay access roads through the entire territory, which “eat up” valuable square meters. You can place the garage on the building line of the site so that the garage doors go directly to the street. Such buildings are capital made of brick with a gable or flat roof, part of a utility block or prefabricated metal structures.

Building a garage on your property

So the long-awaited time has come to start building a garage. Like any other job, building a car shelter will be a lot of trouble, but also a lot of fun, and it also saves a lot. After viewing the photo of the construction of the garage, you will get a lot of positive emotions. And the result will not disappoint you!

garage project

The beginning of any construction is a project. You don't necessarily have to use a roll of blueprints, but if you intend to create something really worthwhile, the object should first be drawn and described.

First of all, at the design stage, you need to determine the following:

Tasks that the garage will solve. Decide whether the shelter will serve only as a parking place for the car, or will it also be repaired? Do you need a viewing hole? Write down all your wishes on paper.
Shelter height dimensions. These parameters are determined based on the characteristics and dimensions of the site on which the garage will be built, and on the tasks that it will solve.

If it is needed only for parking a car, an area of \u200b\u200b3 by 6 meters is enough (if your car is not a Hummer). In such a room, you can freely place a car up to 2 meters wide and 4.5 meters long. At the same time, 50 centimeters will remain along the garage on both sides for opening doors and convenient exit from the car, and in front of it there is a parking space.

The height of the garage must be made sufficient for the passage of the car - 1.5 - 1.9 meters. But it is better to tie this indicator to the size of the gate, having a height of 2-2.5 meters. If you are not the owner of a prestigious foreign car, which has a length of up to 5 meters and a width of up to 1.9 meters, the size of the garage should be increased.

If it is planned to place an additional cellar and a workbench, the dimensions, of course, must be increased even more. However, in a large garage it is convenient to repair and maintain a car, and on racks and shelves you can place tools, utility utensils and seasonal tires. When arranging a shelter for two cars, in addition to the parking space between vehicles, it is necessary to provide an additional distance of at least 70 centimeters.

Location selection

To choose a place for the construction of a garage, it is recommended to develop a master plan for the land plot and place all the buildings of the estate on it, taking into account fire and sanitary and hygienic standards. It is also necessary to take into account the location of the garage relative to the boundaries of the land and the house, as well as the convenience of access to the garage.

The garage can be placed on the building line and in the depth of the site, if the doors, when opened, do not interfere with the movement of cars along the roadway; at a distance of 1 meter from the neighboring land, if water does not fall on it, flowing down from the roof of the garage.
The entrance to the garage, according to accepted sanitary standards, should be located at least 10 meters from the windows of neighboring houses.

Fire safety standards also dictate their requirements: it is recommended to place a detached garage no closer than 9 meters from the house and no closer than 15 meters from buildings that are finished with polymeric materials.

At this stage, it is necessary to transfer the sketches on a piece of paper to the real area. This stage requires a dozen pegs that are forty centimeters long, a heavy hammer, a five-meter tape measure, as much as possible, and a nylon cord. To bind the garage to the terrain, you must determine the point at which one corner of the garage will be located, and the position of the shelter for the car relative to this point in space.

Construction materials

When building a garage with your own hands, you can use various building materials:

brick is the most familiar and very common material, the building in this case is quite reliable;
reinforced concrete allows you to build a reliable garage, which will be collapsible, you can dismantle such a structure at any time;
slag concrete costs less than brick, but is more labor-intensive in the process of work, and shelter safety is lower;
metal allows you to quickly build a structure, and the cost of building a garage is not exorbitant, since it does not require large expenses for laying the foundation;
wood is not the most suitable material for building a garage, it is not reliable and needs constant care.

Earthworks and foundation

During the construction of the garage, earthworks are carried out manually. A trench for a monolithic foundation must be dug at least 40 centimeters wide. Depending on the level of soil freezing in a particular region, a depth of 0.6 - 1.2 meters is selected. As a rule, a meter depth is enough.

Make the bottom of the trench not loose, that is, the soil should be selected to a layer with a natural density. Work the walls with a shovel so that they are vertical and even. There are a huge number of options for foundations for a garage. But we will focus on the rubble concrete foundation, which is quite simple and relatively inexpensive.

The concrete foundation is made simply: it is customary to lay a rubble stone in rows in a trench, and pour each row with cement mortar until the trench is filled to the very top. To fill the rubble, take a mortar of at least mark 150. To do this, mix Portland cement grade 400 with sand, based on the calculation of 2.5 buckets of sand per bucket of cement. Pour water until the required mobility of the solution is reached, near the bucket.

Garage basement

Along the perimeter of the trench for the plinth, formwork should be installed from boards about 10 centimeters wide. It is customary to set the formwork according to the level. If you have an uneven platform, then take the highest place as a basis, add ten centimeters to the level of the base and mark the horizon from it.

On the plinth, it is necessary to arrange horizontal waterproofing from several layers of roofing material, which are laid dry. Waterproofing is needed so that the walls of the garage do not absorb capillary moisture from the ground. Before construction of the garage and walls begins, garage doors must be installed, which will be fixed in the masonry as the wall is erected.

Garage Doors

Gates must be reliable and easy to use. They are hinged, sectional, roller shutter and lift-and-turn. Gates can be opened automatically and mechanically. The first option is preferable, since the product is opened using the control panel without leaving the car. However, it is worth considering a manual mode in case of a power outage.

Make the frame of the gate leaves from wooden bars that have a width of 90-100 and a thickness of 50 millimeters. Paint the outer side of the frame and nail 6 mm plywood onto the wet paint. Turn the workpiece over and fill the empty cavity between the bars with insulation directly onto fresh paint to prevent the insulation from sliding down.

After that, paint over the frame on the other side and nail plywood or hardboard, also pre-painted over the entire surface. The result will be a warm sandwich made of plywood, insulation and hardboard. Garage door leaves must be hung with three metal hinges in such a way that the leaf enters the quarter that is selected in the door block tightly.

To increase the strength of the connection with the wall, embedded parts are welded to the gate frame - round rods with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters. When laying, the rods must be sealed in the seams. The gate is installed vertically, practicing a plumb or level check. Check the vertical on the gate frame, left and right. You can move the gate with a small crowbar, or with flat stones that are placed under the corners.

Walls in the garage

After installing the garage door, it is necessary to start laying the walls, lay the cinder block (foam concrete or brick) with a wall width of 200 millimeters with a “brick” - ordinary chain masonry: the next row should overlap the seams of the previous row. Laying should start from the corners. Next, it is worth pulling a thin cord between them, and lay the rest of the blocks along this cord. Then we raise the corners, and the process repeats.

It is recommended to check the verticality of the walls with a plumb line, paying special attention to the verticality of the corners. Level check the horizontal rows. Take care of an appropriate slope to ensure normal rainwater runoff. For this purpose, perform the end walls of the garage at different heights by making the upper edge of the side wall with a slope.

The slope must be equipped based on the differences in height: for every meter 5 centimeters. For example, with a garage length of 6 meters, the total difference will reach 30 centimeters. To make the slope even, pull the cord along which you will navigate.

In addition, it is recommended to take care of scaffolding, which is necessary when laying walls higher than 1.5 meters. You can make scaffolding from anything - old door panels, boards with the condition that they can easily withstand the weight of one person, several buckets of mortar and 5 - 6 building blocks. The total weight is about 170 - 200 kilograms.

The mortar for laying garage walls is mixed at the rate of one bucket of cement marked 400 per 4.5 buckets of sand. Do not make the solution too liquid, it should reach the consistency of thick sour cream. To make the solution more plastic and not delaminate, add about half a bucket of ordinary clay or lime dough to it.

Make the height of the wall from the side of the gate about 2.5 meters. The height of the wall into which the slope goes should be about 2 meters. The height of the walls, if necessary, can be fearlessly increased to 3, even up to 4 meters, but the masonry in this situation must be reinforced with a metal mesh every 4-5 rows.

Cover and roof

Overlapping for the garage can be made on metal beams with plank filing. To overlap, you need to stock up on steel beams 100 - 120 mm high. Such beams can provide a garage floor, which has a width of up to 6 meters. Choose a length of beams 20 - 25 centimeters longer than the width of the garage so that they go into the wall at least 10 centimeters.

Beams need to be laid across the garage, parallel to the shortest wall in increments of 80 centimeters. Beams are recommended to be laid and sealed in a long wall, and then repeat its slope. After that, proceed to sewing the overlap. Lay 40 mm thick boards on the lower shelves of the beams, trying to move them as tightly as possible.

Place roofing material on top of the boards, rolling a roll across the garage so that the edges are bent 10 centimeters up. Pour slag, expanded clay or a semi-rigid minplate over the roofing material. The roof in front and behind should protrude at least 20 centimeters beyond the garage wall in order to protect the wall from water. Peaks are made from a board, running under the top shelf of the beam.

On top of the slag, make a screed of cement mortar, which is prepared in the same proportion as for masonry. The thickness of the screed is ideally at least 20 mm, and it is better if it reaches 30 - 35 millimeters. The screed must be performed, avoiding strong bumps and depressions. In this form, the roof of the garage will absorb moisture, leaking even with light rain.

To avoid such situations, it is worth covering the roof with a waterproof material using rolled roofing materials of the roofing material variety. Ruberoid and all modifications (bikrost, aquaizol and rubemast) are usually glued onto the roof in two ways: using bituminous mastic or by fusing.

It is recommended to treat the cement screed with a bituminous primer or primer before sticking the roofing material, otherwise it will not stick. You can prepare the primer yourself: to do this, you need to mix molten bitumen and diesel fuel, or bitumen and used engine oil in a ratio of 1 to 3. It should be remembered that bitumen is poured into oil (diesel fuel), and not vice versa.

It is necessary to stick a ruberoid carpet together. Start gluing from the low part of the roof, moving up the slope, rolls across the adhesive, with an overlap of at least 10 centimeters. At the end and at the beginning of the roof, it is customary to overlap the roofing material on the end board of the visor. Before installation, the beams should be painted 2 times, the boards should be treated with an antiseptic and painted on both sides.

Floors and pavement

In the garage, it is customary to arrange the floor at the level of the plinth edge. Since a car will drive into the shelter for the car, the highest requirements are placed on the strength of the floor. The material for the floor is concrete. The thickness of the layer reaches 8-10 centimeters. The earthen base before laying the concrete mass is carefully cleaned and leveled along the horizon.

If backfilling is needed, it can be done with fine gravel, or with the help of sand, followed by tamping. For the floor, ready-made concrete M200 is ordered. Or they prepare the solution on their own based on the following proportion: 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of fine gravel and 2 buckets of sand. Take no more than a bucket of water.

To make the floor even, you need to pull the laces, or set the beacons from the profile pipe according to the level. When constructing a floor in a garage, it is customary to lay concrete in portions without interruption. If you decide to expose beacons, then lay the concrete between the beacons in stripes. Concrete after laying must be carefully rubbed, and if desired, ironed.

Outside the garage, you need to arrange a blind area 50 centimeters wide. They perform the work similarly to the floor, first arranging a crushed stone base and laying concrete on top. The thickness of the concrete on the blind area should be about 4-5 centimeters. The blind area should be with a slight slope directed from the garage, since its purpose is to drain melt and rainwater from the walls.

Finishing and heating

The garage does not require special finishing, but it will not be superfluous to rub the walls with cement mortar, or even plaster and whitewash with lime in one layer. The insulation of the shelter for the car is an open question, however, no insulation will save you in the winter cold without primitive heating equipment. Insulation can be carried out using foam boards 5 centimeters thick, or semi-rigid mineral wool boards.

Attached and built-in garages are usually warm because they are heated by the home boiler. Garage heating is water and electric. It is also possible to install oil convectors and infrared heaters. But in any case, the temperature in winter should be at least 5-6 degrees Celsius.

Remember that in a room that is too warm, cars do not “live” for a long time. High temperatures contribute to the formation of condensate on the body, lead to corrosion of car parts and shorten its service life.

Garage ventilation

Equip good supply and exhaust ventilation in the garage, through which the smell of hot oils and gasoline, as well as exhaust gases, will be removed from the room, which helps to dry the car and creates normal air exchange, which is 180 m3 / h for one car.

Effective ventilation implies 6-10-fold air exchange. To ensure it, it is customary to use three ventilation modes: combined, mechanical and natural. The cheapest and easiest way is natural air exchange. Install air grilles at the bottom of the gate. Air will be removed from the garage through a deflector - a special exhaust device that is located at the end of the exhaust duct.

The air duct in the garage is located near the wall opposite the gate. A similar design works in this way: heavy fresh air enters the garage by gravity through the supply grilles, displacing the less dense exhaust air. To ensure effective ventilation, the cross section of the supply system must be 2 times larger than the exhaust cross section. But the natural mode also has its drawbacks, because it depends on various external factors: the difference between internal and external temperatures, as well as wind pressure.

If an exhaust fan is installed in the garage, a combined ventilation system is obtained. It is mounted in an air duct that passes through the roof of the garage, or in a wall. The disadvantages of such a system are the constant operation of the exhaust fan, the lack of filtration and the heating of the air that comes from the street.

Mechanical ventilation does not have the listed flaws, because in this case, special devices of the exhaust and supply system are responsible for the removal and inflow of air. Supply ventilation consists of a filter, a fan and a heater. The air enters the system through the ventilation duct, is heated, filtered and enters the room through the air distributor. The exhaust air is removed through an exhaust fan.

viewing hole

A viewing hole is considered a necessary part of the garage, as modern cars require maintenance and repair from time to time. For some car owners, the inspection pit device is most likely a tribute to fashion and habit, rather than a necessity.
But if you have decided to be a pit, then start by marking it on the surface of the garage area. It is recommended to move the inspection hole 10-20 cm to the right relative to the central axis in order to increase the free space on the left side for the movement of the driver and the workbench device.

The length of the hole should be equal to the length of the car minus the width of the bumper. This is done so that you do not accidentally get your foot into an open hole. To repair the rear and front of the car, the car must be moved forward or backward.

It is better not to equip the entrance to the pit with a ladder because of the risk of injury, in addition, high humidity will always be observed in the pit, and therefore the wooden ladder will rot very quickly. Instead of a ladder, it is recommended to make several steps with a width of 30-35 centimeters and a step of 30-40 centimeters. The steps must be poured with concrete with the walls of the pit.

The surface of the steps is good to use during repairs for tools, they can be leaned on to create additional force when lifting heavy machine parts. It is advisable to frame the upper borders with a corner to protect against destruction. The corners must be reinforced - weld metal bolts or rods on the side for rigid fastening in the concrete of the inspection pit box.

It is mandatory to install a restrictive bar along the edges of the contour of the pit, while on the outside you need to make an oval, which pushes the car away from the pit - when you hit it, the wheel will slide off the bar to the outside.

Then you can use different options for closing the pit with lids. The framing contour of the pit and the cover are made of shields, which consist of three or four boards, which are 40 millimeters thick. To facilitate movement along the pit of shields, balls are inserted at the bottom of the boards, which differ in diameter of 15-20 millimeters.

Entrance to the garage

The road to the garage must be included in the project documentation. The type of coating, on the one hand, must correspond to the style of the shelter for the car, on the other hand, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarity of the soil, the level of groundwater and the geology of the site. A lightweight version of masonry involves bonding bricks or tiles with mortar, some solutions involve filling sand, gravel and arranging drainage.

Finally, the access road must be linked into a single harmonious system with garden paths, taking into account the needs of the owners of the house, because such “transport highways” divide the backyard territory into functional zones. It is also recommended to ensure the stylistic compatibility of various coatings.

The driveway to the garage must have a hard and even surface, which can be made of concrete slabs, figured paving elements or asphalt. Such a solid base will protect the track from splitting under the weight of the machine. When building an access road to a garage, it is imperative to follow the technology for building a garage and a road, because without it, with the onset of spring, the path may swell, and the tiles may move apart.

Thus, you already know how to build a shelter for a car with your own hands. To consolidate the material, watch a video about building a garage, after which you can stock up on the necessary materials and tools and get to work immediately!

For the construction of this type of building, it is not at all necessary to use expensive building materials. When building a garage with your own hands, slag or foam blocks are most often used. In our article, we will describe the stages of planning the construction of a garage.

Depth and type of foundation

When choosing it, the weight of the structure and the type of soil must be taken into account. When erecting walls from cinder blocks, it is sufficient to equip a shallowly buried tape or columnar base. It can be poured from concrete or built from the same blocks.

But, if hollow structures are used to build walls, then for arranging the foundation you will need solid cinder blocks. The foundation of them is able to withstand a structure weighing up to 100 tons.

trench preparation

Marking the foundation for the garage

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the width and length of the structure. There are a lot of drawings and photos of a self-built garage on the net. For a passenger car of standard sizes, it will be enough to erect a building measuring 3x6 m. In width, it is necessary to leave a margin of 70 cm for ease of passage and arrangement of shelving. If it is planned to attach a workshop to the garage, then the length or width will increase accordingly. The acceptable height of such a structure is 2.3 m.

When choosing a place for a garage, be sure to check the communications plan so as not to damage the water and gas pipes. To mark the future trench, metal rods or strong wooden stakes with pointed ends are used. They are placed in the corners and sides of the future foundation every 1.5-2 m. A strong cord is pulled tightly between them. To get a perfect rectangle, it should also be stretched from the corners - the diagonals should turn out to be equal in size and have the same intersection angles.

The trench is dug by hand - when using the technique, the soil will crumble. After its excavation to a depth of 70-80 cm (on clay soils by 150 cm), the earth should be carefully compacted. For problem-free soils, this is not very necessary. On weak soils, this procedure is mandatory. With good compaction of sandy soil, sandy loam or loam, the drawdown can be up to 0.5 m.

If a viewing hole is provided in the garage, a foundation pit is first prepared for it. Such a pit is strengthened with temporary formwork, and only then they begin to prepare a trench for the foundation.

Laying blocks for the foundation

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Types of strip foundation

Laying is done in a checkerboard pattern so that each of the blocks of the next row falls on the seam of the row of the previous one. To obtain a reliable design, the verticality and horizontality of the rows are verified by the building level. The height of the foundation must be calculated so that it rises above the surface by 0.7 m.

The laid out base must be strengthened with a plaster mesh. It is attached to a cement mortar 2 cm thick. To protect the base from moisture, it is covered with liquid bitumen. A double layer of roofing material or other rolled waterproofing is attached on top of it. After the foundation is completely ready, the space between it and the ground is covered with earth and compacted tightly.

For heaving soils and with a close location of groundwater, the use of a block foundation is undesirable. After all, when the soil moves in a horizontal direction, the masonry, and the cinder blocks themselves, can collapse.

Gate installation

They are mounted before the construction of the building begins. For the manufacture of the frame of the gate, a metal corner is used. An I-beam is laid on top so that it goes into the walls by 20 cm.

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Ready-made swing, metal gates

For a strong fastening of the door frame, it is necessary to weld metal 12-mm rods 40 cm long to it, which will later be laid into the seams of the walls. To do this, you need to accurately calculate at what distance you need to attach the bars.

After leveling the structure and checking the horizontal and vertical position, it is embedded in cement and temporarily fixed with wooden braces. Before installing the gate, be sure to check if there are any obstacles to opening in the form of buildings or trees.

Calculation of the required number of blocks

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First you need to know the perimeter of the walls. We will need to add the length and width of the building and multiply their sum by 2. For a garage of standard sizes 3x6 m, the perimeter will be (3 + 6) x 2 = 18 m.

Now you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. Let's say their height is 2.3 m. We multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height of the building. The area will be equal to 18 x 2.3 \u003d 41.4 square meters. m.

The standard size of a cinder block is 0.19 x 0.39 m. We multiply these numbers. Its lateral area will be 0.0741 sq. m. Now it remains to find out the number of blocks required for laying the walls of a garage measuring 3x6 m. The perimeter is 41.4 square meters. m divided by the area of one block of 0.0741 sq. m. We get 558.7 pieces. We round the number up to 559. It is necessary to take cinder blocks with a margin of 5-10% for cutting and marriage. We add 56 more blocks to the resulting number 559. We get 615 pieces. Please note that this calculation is carried out without taking into account solid blocks going to the construction of the foundation. For him, the calculation should be done separately.

You can also use online calculators to calculate the required number of cinder blocks. For example, this one:

When erecting walls in heated rooms, cinder blocks that can quickly absorb moisture require additional lining and insulation. Otherwise, in winter, the condensate formed at the junction of heat and cold, freezing, will quickly destroy the walls.

Walling

A building made of high-quality cinder blocks can last 50 years or more. You can lay out walls from them quite quickly. But, since such blocks are quite heavy, you will need an assistant in your work.

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Construction of the walls of the garage from cinder blocks

Before purchasing blocks, be sure to check their quality. To do this, install a pair of randomly selected products on top of each other. There shouldn't be a gap between them.
Products from fine-grained slag are more expensive, but they also last much longer. However, their thermal insulation properties will be lower
To fasten cinder blocks, it is better to take not a standard cement mortar, but a special adhesive mixture. The seams in this case will be thinner and stronger. When using a cement mortar, the proportions for mixing are standard: 3 to 1 (sand, cement). Frost resistance and strength of the solution can be enhanced by adding plasticizers to it.
When using cement mortar, the thickness of the joints is 1.5 cm. When laying on glue, this parameter must be specified in the instructions.
Dilute the solution gradually after all, after setting, it will no longer be possible to use it. It should be enough for 1-1.5 hours of work. Keep in mind that for 4 blocks it will take you about a bucket of mortar
For the walls of an unheated garage, half-stone masonry is enough when the blocks are laid along, and not across the wall
Block laying should begin from the corners with checking the verticality and horizontality of the rows with a building level. To do this, a string is stretched between the two extreme blocks, which will serve as a guide.
Hollow blocks have only holes down
To get a checkerboard laying, the next row starts with a half of the block. In this case, the next row will move, and the cinder blocks of the first row will close the seams of the blocks of the previous row. In order not to engage in cutting, you can purchase ready-made corner cinder blocks
To strengthen the structure, it is better to use reinforcement(metal mesh). It is laid in the seams between the rows. The first row is reinforced necessarily. Then the grid is laid in every 4th row. Window and door openings must also be reinforced. The grid is laid in the last 2 rows

If you want to change the colors of the joints, add carbon black to the solution to darken, lime to lighten or blue copper sulfate to get a blue tint. Or use special additives that you can buy at a hardware store.

garage floor

The cost of cinder blocks for building walls is only 1/3 of the cost. Material investments will also be needed for arranging the roof, foundation, gates, decoration, etc. But still, a block building will cost less than any other material.

To cover the roof, I-beams are used, which are laid across the building every 80 cm. Their length should be 25 cm more than the total width of the garage. In places where they rest on the walls, cinder blocks must be replaced with more durable ones. concrete blocks.

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Thick, durable boards are attached to the bottom of the beams. Their thickness should be 4-5 cm. They are waterproofed with roofing felt with a small 10-centimeter run on the walls.

To protect the foundation from rain and melting snow, 4 cm long visors should be attached to the edges of the roof. You can insulate the roof with slag, which is poured on top of the roofing material, foam plastic or mineral wool. They are protected from moisture with a layer of 30 mm cement screed. In the future, it is treated with bitumen, and then covered with roofing material with an overlap of sheets of 10-15 cm. They also need to close the visors.

For the roof of the garage, you can use any material: from slate, metal profiles to tiles. It is necessary that it protrudes 20 cm beyond the walls. Then, during rain or snowmelt, moisture will not flow down the walls.

When constructing a shed roof, the walls must have a slope - for each meter of length, it should be about 50 mm.

viewing hole

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viewing hole

Its arrangement is possible only when the groundwater rises below the level of 2.5 m. If they rise a little higher, drainage can be arranged in the area of \u200b\u200bthe pit. However, this will require additional labor and capital investments. With a high groundwater approach to the surface level, it is better to refuse to build a viewing hole - it will simply be flooded.

Standard sizes

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For a comfortable inspection and repair of a passenger car, the dimensions of the pit should be as follows:

length: to determine this parameter, 1 m¸ is added to the length of the vehicle, for example, (4.5 + 1) = 5.5 m
width, 200 mm less than the standard gauge of the car (the distance between the wheels), in this case the car can easily drive into the pit without the risk of falling down; You can check this information in the technical documentation.
depth: so that an adult can stand in it, straightening up, this parameter should be 1.85-2.0 m

The pit for the viewing hole needs to be done a little more so that there is room for concreting or laying brick walls. It is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the hydro- and heat-insulating layers. If necessary, niches for placing tools can be provided in the walls of the pit.

Finishing the walls of the pit with concrete

To protect against moisture, crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the prepared pit, and then sand. From above, such a pillow is covered with a layer of wet clay and compacted. Further, reinforcement is laid on the bottom, and it is concreted or laid out with bricks. In order for the concrete to set well, the pit must be left for a week to dry.

After the specified time has elapsed, waterproofing is laid on the bottom, then a layer of foam (heat insulator), and it is again filled with a layer of concrete mortar of small thickness. Enough 15-20 mm.

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It is also desirable to pre-coat the walls with clay, which is a natural waterproofing agent. A thick film or roofing material is attached on top. You can replace it with bitumen, liquid rubber or plastic plates. Next, a heat insulator is attached.

The thickness of the walls when pouring concrete is 15 cm. When installing the formwork, reinforcement in the form of a metal mesh or bars is placed in it.

The concrete solution is poured in stages of 0.3-0.4 m, followed by drying for several hours. At each stage of pouring, it is well bayoneted to remove voids.

When laying lighting, the wires should be hidden in the corrugation. It is attached to the reinforcing mesh using plastic ties before pouring concrete. It is necessary to provide for natural or forced ventilation of the inspection pit.

You can protect the walls from shedding with the help of a metal corner, laid around the perimeter at the top. It is advisable to make a durable metal or wooden cover to eliminate the possibility of falling.

To descend into the pit, steps are equipped in it. Although you can use an ordinary ladder for these purposes.

Pouring floors

Before pouring, the surface must be covered with a crushed stone pillow. The floors are leveled along the upper boundary of the foundation or slightly higher. The thickness of the concrete layer should be 10-20 cm.

Read also: [Instructions] How to make a beautiful and inexpensive fence in the country with your own hands: from wood, metal and polycarbonate (70+ Photos & Videos) + Reviews

Finished base of the garage with a viewing hole

To make the floors even, when arranging a garage with your own hands, you first need to prepare beacons - metal or wooden slats installed on thick mortar slaps. The distance between the slats should be slightly more than the length of the rule - a tool in the form of a long ruler used to level the mortar.

The horizontal alignment of the beacons is done using the building level. If necessary, a solution is reported under them or, on the contrary, it is pressed into the surface more strongly. After leveling the concrete, it must be covered with a film and left to dry for a week.

wall decoration

Porous cinder blocks are able to reliably retain heat in the building. But at the same time it is also a disadvantage. Since porous cinder blocks quickly absorb water, the walls of it require additional finishing. They can be plastered or protected with a ventilated façade. Otherwise, when freezing wet walls, the material will begin to collapse.

Wall decoration must be done immediately after construction is completed. The best time for this is summer.

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Plastering garage walls from the inside

Since the plaster mortar will not adhere well to cinder blocks, a reinforcing mesh is used for finishing:

it is attached with small nails
it is better to pre-prime the walls, this will better strengthen the surface and increase its adhesion to the mortar
beacons made of wooden or metal slats are placed to align the walls
the plaster mortar is spread with a spatula, and then leveled with a building rule along the lighthouses
the last step is to grout the surface with a metal float

You can replace the standard cement mortar for plastering walls with an inexpensive lime-clay mortar. To do this, take 1 part of wet clay dough, 5 parts of sand and 1 part of lime.

Arrangement of ventilation

If you do not want the details of your car to quickly become rusty, be sure to make sure you ventilate your garage. It is also required to remove exhaust gases that adversely affect human health.

For a small room, natural ventilation is sufficient. To do this, holes are prepared in opposite walls: inlet for fresh air and exhaust. The first is placed at a minimum height from the surface - 10-15 cm from the floor. The second exhaust hole is placed almost close to the ceiling, at a distance of 10-15 cm from it. The exhaust pipe is brought out above the roof to a height of 0.5 m.

When arranging ventilation in the garage, it must be taken into account that for a room of 15 sq. m diameter of the hood should be 225 mm. With an increase in the area of \u200b\u200bthe room for each square meter, this parameter must be increased by 15 mm. If a pair of holes is prepared for the hood, then the diameter is halved accordingly.

The cross section of the hood must necessarily be equal to or less than the cross section of the supply ventilation. Otherwise, the thrust may be overturned. For the same reason, if you cover the supply air duct, be sure to reduce the draft in the hood as well.

Do not forget that when arranging a viewing hole, it requires the arrangement of a separate ventilation!

Shelf installation

It is difficult for a real motorist to do without tool storage places. To equip the shelves in the garage, you can use any option for their location. They can be suspended, angular, have different lengths and widths. Shelves can be placed along one, two or even three walls.

If containers with liquids will be installed on the shelves, it is better to provide small sides along the bottom. Be sure to think about where you will store massive things. Such shelves should be additionally reinforced. Otherwise, over time, they will sag, and then completely collapse. It is better to hang winter and summer tires closer to the ceiling so that it takes up a minimum of free space.

This video tells in detail about each of the stages of building a garage from foam blocks, as well as the main subtleties and secrets of its construction.

Garage for Friendship from Cinder Block in 2 Days

7.8 Total Score

Building a garage

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This will interest you:

G do-it-yourself arrage, like any work done on your own, will bring a lot of trouble, a lot of pleasure and will save a lot. The cost of building a garage, like the cost of any construction, includes the cost of materials, the work of machines and the cost of the work itself, which means that deciding build a garage with your own hands, you at least significantly reduce your costs. And then, a garage with your own hands - isn't this a reason to be proud of yourself? The result may not be exactly what you would like it to be, but it will be relatively cheap and you will get a lot of experience building garages. Yes, and work performed independently will always bring a lot of different emotions, including positive ones!

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Video version of the article

And how to build a garage yourself, and will be discussed in this article. Of course, if you didn’t hold a hammer in your hands, it’s unlikely that the best article will teach you to build a garage on your own, but to provide very, very significant support in this endeavor - as much as you like. In addition, you can always ask us any question and get a comprehensive answer. In the article, we will take a specific garage construction project and follow it. You will learn a number of useful recommendations that will definitely come in handy if you decide to build a garage with your own hands: what you need to consider during construction, what subtleties and secrets exist in this matter - you will learn all this from this material.

First of all, you will need to decide on the type of garage. The two most common today are metal and stone. When deciding in favor of a particular material, one must be guided by construction nuances, the prospect of operating a future garage, personal preferences, and many more considerations.

Choosing garage materials for self-construction

Let's start with the construction of a brick garage. Masonry stones in construction include not only brick, but we will limit ourselves to this word, implying the possibility of using other stone materials: cinder block blocks(cinder blocks), foam concrete(foam blocks) and others.

The desire to build a brick garage is quite justified. It not only looks much more impressive than metal, but it actually is. It is not for nothing that a garage made of bricks is called capital. Of course, the construction of such a structure is not a quick and time-consuming task, but the result is worth it. Here's what you have to do if you decide to build a garage with your own hands.

Stone, brick garage. How to build a garage from foam blocks, foam concrete, bricks, cinder blocks

The first stage of building a garage - a project

The beginning of any construction is a project. It does not have to be a pood-weight roll of drawings, but what you intend to create must first be drawn and described, even if it is on a piece of paper torn from a school notebook.

At the design stage, we first determine the following.

Tasks that is designed to tackle the garage. Will it serve only as a parking place for the car, or is it supposed to make some kind of repairs to this car? Do you need → ? →? Do not be lazy and write down all your wishes on paper (the links tell you how to make a viewing hole in the garage and cellar).

Dimensions garage in plan and height are determined: firstly, based on the size and characteristics of the site on which you plan to place the garage; and secondly, the tasks that you expect him to solve. For example, do you only need a parking space? Fine! A garage of 3 x 5.5 m is enough for you (of course, if your car is not a Hummer). When it is also planned to place a workbench in the garage for any work, no matter what the cellar is, of course, the dimensions should be increased.

The second stage - breakdown on the ground

At this stage, what you have sketched on a piece of paper should be transferred to the real area (builders say, "localized"). For this stage, you will need a dozen pegs 40 centimeters long (pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm are convenient); a heavy hammer, and preferably a small sledgehammer; tape measure at least five meters long (longer lengths are welcome); kapron cord thirty - forty meters.

To bind to the terrain of our garage, you need to know at least the point where one of its corners will be located. Well, and, of course, the position of the garage in space relative to this point.

In the article, we assume the most common option, which is the garage is attached to an existing line of garages. In this case, all you need to do to lay out your garage is to continue the line of the walls of the existing buildings and set aside the necessary dimensions, as shown in the picture above.

The third stage - earthworks

As a rule, earthwork during the construction of a garage is carried out manually. But this is if you are building something like a stone cover for your "swallow". And if you plan to put a couple of tubs with pickles in a good cellar, then you cannot do without an excavator. And the viewing hole is a kind of cellar, only a small one.

But back to our foundations. The trench for the monolithic strip foundation of the garage should be at least 40 cm wide. The depth, depending on the depth of soil freezing in your area, is selected from 60 cm to 1.2 m. As a rule, a meter depth is enough for the eyes. Unless your garage is in the permafrost zone, but that's another story.

The bottom of the trench should not be loose, i.e., the soil should be selected up to a layer with natural density. A layer of natural density is, for example, a layer of clay that has been lying for 10,000 years and no one has ever touched it. If the clay was dug out and covered again, then its density is indicated as bulk. The walls are processed with a shovel so that they are as even and vertical as possible.

Fourth stage - foundations

There are a lot of options for foundations. Here we will focus on rubble concrete - quite simple and relatively inexpensive.

Do-it-yourself concrete foundation for a garage is quite simple: a rubble stone is laid in rows in a neatly dug trench, and each row is poured with cement mortar until the trench is filled to the very top.

An important point: the foundation is the foundation - the basis of everything. It depends on its strength how the rest of the structure will behave, how long it will last, whether it will shrink and crack. Therefore, for pouring rubble stones, we take a solution of at least grade 150. It is done as follows: cement "PC" (Portland cement) grade 400 is mixed with sand based on the calculation of two and a half buckets of sand per bucket of cement. Water is poured until the required mobility of the solution is obtained, approximately near the bucket (here, as elsewhere in the article, the capacity of the bucket does not matter; it is important that it be the same for all ingredients). You can learn more about → in another article on the site.

Stage five of the construction of the garage - basement, walls and gates

To install a plinth around the perimeter of the trench, you must install →. It is best if the boards are about 10 cm wide. The formwork must be leveled. If your site is uneven, then we take its highest place as a basis, add ten centimeters to the level of the base and mark the horizon from it, as shown in the figure.

On the plinth, horizontal waterproofing is arranged from one or two layers of roofing material, laid dry. Waterproofing is necessary so that the walls do not absorb capillary moisture from the ground.

We install garage doors before we start building walls., because as the wall is erected, they will be fixed in the masonry. To increase the strength of the connection with the wall, embedded parts are welded to the door frame in the form of round rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. When laying, these rods are sealed in the seams. According to the height of the gate, it is worth making at least four such mortgages on each side. Before installing the gate, you should →, preferably twice (the link tells how to paint metal).

The gate is installed strictly vertically, which is checked by a level or a plumb line. The vertical is checked by the gate frame on the right and left. The gate moves with a small crowbar, the desired level is fixed with metal plates or flat stones placed at the corners. We fix the exposed gates with wooden braces, as shown in the figure.

After installing the garage door, we proceed to the → (brickwork is described by reference) of the garage, with a wall width of 200 mm, we lay the cinder block (brick, foam concrete) with ordinary chain masonry, when the next row overlaps the seams of the previous row. We start laying from the corners. Having set the corners, we stretch a thin cord between them and put the rest of the blocks along this cord. Having laid out the row, we again raise the corners and so on. Having adapted a little, the corners can be laid out immediately on two or three blocks.

We check the verticality of the walls with a plumb line, especially paying attention to the verticality of the corners. We check the horizontality of the rows with a level.

For our garage, the ceiling is also a roof, so when installing it, you need to take care of an appropriate slope for normal rainwater runoff. To this end, the end walls of the garage are made of different heights, respectively, the upper edge of the side walls must be made with a slope. The slope is made based on the difference in height: five centimeters per meter. Thus, with a garage length of six meters (for example), the total difference will be 30 cm. In order for the slope to be even, they pull the cord along which they navigate.

For masonry you will need:

Trowel mason "trowel";
pickaxe;
a small sledgehammer "cam" or a large one - five hundred grams - a hammer;
level;
plumb;
as well as thirty meters thick - about a millimeter - kapron thread (masons call it "lace");
to mix the solution you will need a large container, something like a trough; the ideal option is to get a small mortar mixer for a while;
several buckets for supplying mortar, dosing sand, cement, water;
shovel for loading materials.

In addition, you need to take care of the scaffolds. About → , you can find out in the article at the link. For laying walls higher than one and a half meters, you can no longer do without them. Scaffolding can be made from anything: from boards, old door panels mounted on goats, etc., provided that they can easily support the weight of one person plus two or three buckets of mortar, and plus five or six building blocks - that is, the total weight is about one hundred and seventy - two hundred kilograms.

We knead the mortar for laying the walls of the garage at the rate of a bucket of cement grade 400 for four and a half buckets of sand. The solution should not be too liquid, the consistency of thick sour cream is just right. In order for the solution not to delaminate and be more plastic, it will not be superfluous to add half a bucket of lime dough or ordinary clay to it.

Every car needs a garage, just like a man needs his own house. It serves as protection against both weather conditions and robbers. In addition, the garage can be a workshop or utility room in which various work is carried out and tools with spare parts are stored. But, due to the economic crisis, not everyone can afford to make a capital garage. It's just that most people don't have the money to build something like this.

That is why people are looking for options to build a garage with their own hands, doing it cheaply and quickly. But how to do it and is it real? You will learn the answer to this question from the article. There are some features that will help you bring everything to life.

Basis of savings for construction

What will help you save money on building a structure? Firstly, the fact that you will do all the work yourself. Secondly, it is no secret to anyone that materials for construction play a major role in the cost. Let's say a brick building will cost you a lot. Not only does the material cost money, but it will not be possible to quickly build your own garage. The same can be said about the reinforced concrete structure. How to build a garage cheaply? For this you will need the following materials:

Note! Polycarbonate. Quite a popular option if your building is located near the house. It will perform a protective function against weather conditions. However, protection from thieves will not work. However, the construction is done instantly and cheaply.

Now you know what material you can cheaply build a “home” for a car from. Let's take a closer look at the materials themselves and construction technology.

cheap wooden garage

Wood is a unique product that we received from nature. In our country, the tree is available and its price is low. Externally, the garage will be quite attractive, and it will not be difficult to build it. However, there are a few things to keep in mind while working. You have two building options:

on frame technology;
from round logs.

It is cheaper to use frame technology, and for reliability it is better to choose construction from logs. Which one to choose is up to you.

Note! The tree is afraid of moisture, burns well and rots over time. In order for the garage to stand longer, all materials should be treated with agents against these phenomena.

What is the construction technology? Everything is standard. The main point is clear drawings and a plan. The type of structure, its location and exact dimensions are selected. After that, the site is prepared, everything is cleared, leveled and compacted. According to the type of soil, the occurrence of groundwater, the freezing point of the soil and the weight of the garage, the type of foundation is selected and its construction is carried out. Most often, a strip foundation reinforced with reinforcement is used. When everything is ready, the assembly of the garage begins. How exactly this happens, you can find out from this detailed video:

Cheap cinder block garage

No less popular material in the construction of garages. It is noteworthy that the cinder block can be of several types:

Blast furnace slag, having excellent characteristics and durability.
Shell rock.
Brick fight.

To improve the characteristics of the material, manufacturers add perlite, polystyrene and a list of other materials to the composition. We can say that the cinder block is almost an ideal option. This applies to both the speed of construction of the building, and its cost. With all this, the building will be durable and reliable. If we note the shortcomings, then we single out one - the hygroscopicity of cinder blocks. Just like wood, it absorbs moisture, which destroys it. If we are talking about dry soil, then this is not a problem for cinder block. If you follow the construction technology, then a cheap garage will last about 50 years. If groundwater is high in your area, it is preferable to use a more resistant material.

Advice! You can protect the same tree with varnish, antiseptics and other means from moisture, decay and insects. You can't do that with a cinder block!

What to say about construction technology? Here are the processes in a nutshell:

Note! The cinder block differs not only in composition, but also in configuration. There are solid and hollow products. The former are used in the construction of the foundation, the latter - for laying walls.

Cheap garage from corrugated board

Pretty quick way to get a "home" for your car. It is easy to work with a professional flooring. It does not rot, is not affected by ultraviolet rays and does not lose its characteristics over time. It is made on the basis of a galvanized sheet, which consists of several layers. Corrosion protection is a polymer coating that determines the color of the corrugated board. Due to its bends, it has stiffeners. The material is durable and reliable.

True, you need to choose the right corrugated board. To build a garage inexpensively and efficiently, use a fleet of PS or S products. The letter "C" indicates that it is a wall. And the number next to it is the stiffness of the sheet. The best option for a garage is brand C-20.

Note! It happens that consultants recommend using C-10 or C-8 for this purpose. The reason may be their illiteracy or lack of C-20 in the warehouse. But don't fall for it. Demand only C-20, if there is no such brand, go to another store. Let it be a little more expensive, but it will last much longer.

When built with a simple C-8, your garage will be quite cold, and in strong winds the structure will shake and shake. Stop only at S-20. As for the color, it's purely up to you.

The construction technology is as follows:

Planning.
Site preparation.
The design itself will be light. You can simply compact the soil and place the frame on top of it. Nevertheless, we recommend that you perform a shallow monolithic foundation.
The basis of this cheap garage is a profile design. The main task is to make such a frame.
When the "backbone" of the garage is ready, you can sheathe it with corrugated board. The procedure is simple, but requires accuracy.
At the end, the gate is installed and the design is checked.

There is another option to build a frame garage from corrugated board. Find out exactly how to do this in this video:

Summing up

As you can see from this article, even in this tough economic time, it is cheaper to build a garage using simple materials. In this case, all the work will be done quickly. And taking into account the fact that the whole process will be done independently, the cost is significantly reduced. An inexpensive garage is not a dream, but a reality. If you take into account all the above tips, then you will get a high-quality and good garage, for little money.

A garage made of wood in many regions of our country is the most optimal construction option, due to the affordable cost of materials, ease of installation and beautiful appearance of the finished structure. In this article, we will tell you how to make a wooden garage with your own hands, what materials to build it from, and also show diagrams, photo and video instructions.

The choice of construction technology

The main thing is to choose the optimal construction technology and complete all the stages in strict accordance with the chosen type of construction.

The most common are two technologies for building garages made of wood: using frame technology and from logs.

It is necessary to give preference to the construction of a box for a car using log technology if the main building, house or cottage, is built from a similar material. The frame structure will be cheaper, it is easier to pick up materials for it, and the time for construction will be significantly reduced. In addition, a wooden framed garage on the outside can be finished with any facade materials suitable for the style of a country house immediately after the construction of the building or after a certain period of time.

Preparatory work

Maximum speed and ease of work are the main advantages of frame technology. But, despite the simplicity, the construction of a frame garage requires preliminary preparation, the development of a project with which it will be possible to calculate the required amount of materials and components. The project is calculated independently, with the involvement of experienced specialists or downloaded from specialized Internet resources. The dimensions of the building should take into account the number of cars, the presence of an open carport for summer storage of cars and the attic floor, which many motorists arrange above the garage.

At the preparatory stage, the location of the future garage and the type of building are established: detached, attached to the main task, the type of gate opening and alignment with the common entrance area to the site. The selected site is thoroughly cleaned, leveled and, if necessary, rammed.

Foundation works

A high-quality and reliable foundation is the basis of any structure. The choice of technology for the construction of the foundation depends on many different factors: the constructive solution of the structure, the characteristics of the soil, the financial capabilities of the owner, etc.

Basically, for the construction of a garage, the base is a concrete slab, poured using monolithic technology.

The concrete slab will serve as a subfloor, which can then be revetted with any finishing materials. Being a kind of "floating" foundation, the concrete slab perceives uniformly high loads, helping to avoid deformation of the structure during its operation.

To equip a monolithic foundation along the perimeter of the intended development, they dig a shallow trench and install the formwork. First, they make a pillow of sand and gravel, tamp it down. Then the base is reinforced with two meshes of metal rods, preparing the site, and it is poured with concrete. After this, the foundation must be allowed to stand for about 3 weeks.

Assembling the frame from boards and timber

The lower harness is made of a wooden board 100x50 mm, pre-treated with an antiseptic. For racks at the corners of the garage and in the gate leaves, a beam of 100x100 mm is used, for other parts of the structure - rafters and floor blocks - 100x50 mm. In the lower trim between the posts, a step of no more than 1200 mm is maintained.

To give the frame greater strength, struts should be installed in the corners of the building.

If the garage is planned in width over 4 m, it is better to make ceiling beams from a more durable and reliable board 50x100 mm. Longitudinal elements are made of timber not less than 50x50 mm.

Roof and walls

For the arrangement of the roof, a board of 100x25 mm is used, which is sheathed with a pre-selected roofing material. Metal tile or slate can be mounted directly on a wooden crate, while not forgetting to equip a hydro and vapor barrier system to organize a comfortable microclimate in the garage.

Outside, a weir is necessarily installed along the roofing system, which can be made independently from a plastic pipe cut in two.

For cladding outside the building, you can use a special facade lining or a solid wooden board, pre-treated with impregnation to protect it from moisture. From the inside, the garage is insulated with mineral wool, it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier and sew it up with clapboard.

Wooden garage 6×4

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the principle of building a garage, the size of which is 6 × 4 m with a ceiling height of 3 m. A gate with a size of 2.8 × 2.5 m will be installed in it, the foundation is made of reinforced concrete slabs, and the frame is made of wooden beams 100 × 100 mm. As for the exterior finish, it will be made of corrugated board or other similar material.

The first thing to do is to clear the construction site. At the site of the future structure, remove the soil up to 10 cm deep. The bottom of the pit is covered with sand, leveled and rammed.

Lay boards for formwork 1.5 × 0.5 cm along the perimeter, and 15 cm high. The base is reinforced with wire Ø 12 mm. The cells must be made 20 × 20 cm. The resulting mesh should be in the middle of the formwork. After that, concrete is poured. Although it may seem that such a foundation is unreliable, it is important not to forget that the weight of the 6 × 4 m garage frame structure is relatively small.

The principle of building a frame is already described in this article. Here the difference lies in the fact that it is important to respect the dimensions of the garage. So, a frame is being built from beams 3 m long. The assembly starts from the bottom crown. You fix the corner drains on it and the upper crown is already on them.

In order for the racks to have a secure fixation, they should be temporarily fixed with the help of rails or boards.

The resulting structure will have a sufficiently high strength. If necessary, the frame is reinforced with jumpers for greater rigidity. As for the opening, a beam is laid horizontally on top of the racks. It must also be securely fastened.

In our case, we will build a gable roof of the garage. The ridge beam will be attached to two supports, the cross section of which is 10 × 10 cm. These supports will rest on the gables. For the manufacture of rafters and a ridge, a board 40 × 100 mm is used.

Rafters are installed close to each other. This will allow the roof to remain stable under strong wind loads. Between themselves, they are tightened with puffs. This technology will unload the skate. The boards themselves should not be fastened to the crossbar with an overlap, but under the ridge on top of the puffs. At the end, the structure is sheathed with USB or plywood.

The floor in the garage can be made using different technologies. For example, you can make it wooden, concrete, or use self-leveling floor technology. The walls can be treated with construction paper, and hardboard is attached on top of it. But you can apply other finishing materials. As mentioned at the beginning of this description, outside we propose to install corrugated board on the facade. To do this, you need to make a small crate from a bar 40 × 40 mm. The ceiling can be hemmed with wooden boards.

So that the roof does not sag under the weight of snow, it is recommended to fix the filly to the rafters from the side of the walls. It will also allow you to make the filing of the cornice and the overhang of the roof more attractive.

For wall cladding, it is better to use sheets of 3 m. So, the design will be airtight without unnecessary joints. In conclusion, it remains to make metal gates.

Following such a simple technology, you can make a wooden garage, 6 × 4 m in size.