How to use flax when connecting a thread. Proper winding with flax on the thread. How to wind flax on a thread: detailed instructions. Combination of two materials

2015-02-18, 19:31

Hello dear DIYers.

Until now, linen has been the best winding for carving. First, I will substantiate this statement, and then we will analyze the execution process piece by piece.

The first alternative to linen is fum tape. There are at least three reasons why it should be abandoned.

1. It is not known who made it, despite what is indicated on the label, which means there are no quality guarantees.

2. It takes a long time to wind it.

3. When tightening the thread, especially when installing valves, it is impossible to correct its position, that is, you can only twist it forward. If you apply a little back, then the connection on the fumka will flow.

The second alternative is the Tangit unilok pipe with a lock. I won’t argue about the lock - it’s dead, but as for the key: consider that they twisted it, and threw the key away, and so you can’t find it.

You can't unscrew it, just cut it.

Linen is a completely different matter. Here are four reasons why you should use it:

1. One hundred percent guarantee against leakage.

2. Speed and accuracy of execution.

3. The ability to adjust any connection back and forth, without the risk of leakage.

4. Easy disassembly, no matter how old it is.

Now how is it done.

Everyone knows that flax is not wound dry. Previously, it was impregnated with paint, but now, thanks to technological progress, silicone has appeared.

If the connection with paint did not look very neat, and you had to disassemble it with a blowtorch, then with silicone it is a completely different matter.

The main thing is to use solid silicones. These include: KimTek 101E, Olimp, Macroflex, since, in addition to cushioning, they also have adhesive properties. With other brands, the connection turns out to be too mobile, although it still does not flow.

So, we take a threaded part, a flax pigtail, a syringe with silicone, and separate a small part from the pigtail for winding.

How much to pinch off a pigtail? Each case is different. First you need to try to wrap the folder in the mother. Sometimes it wraps very easily, sometimes it’s tight (everything is like in life), depending on this, the amount of winding is chosen.

And in general, after the first time it will become clear. If it squeezes out too much, then we take less.

First, we apply silicone to the thread, then, leaving a small tail, and pressing it with your thumb to the part, in the direction of the thread, we wind the linen with an interference fit, trying to cover the entire surface with it, that is, so that it does not go with a tourniquet.

If during the winding process you realize that there is already too much linen, just cut off the remnants. The remaining tail is also started in the direction of the thread.

After that, with a finger, we smooth the entire winding so that the hairs do not stick out on the sides, and most importantly, do not block the through hole.

Tow for pipes is one of the most popular sealants on the Russian market. Linen winding has been popular for many decades due to its low price, availability and relatively good sealing of joints under special conditions. Winding flax on a thread is relevant for temporary threaded connections and those located in the public domain, i.e. are always in sight, the leak is easy to fix and immediately fix. Joints on linen work up to a maximum temperature of 120-140 °C, but sometimes this figure is reduced to 70 °C. It all depends on the quality of the material and the additional sealing agent - plumbing paste.

Let's talk about the technology and rules of winding flax. How to wind the tow on the thread correctly so that the sealing is enough for the entire shelf life of the connection? What are the tricks and professional secrets for high-quality thread sealing?

This question is asked not only by the owner of the apartment, where the faucet suddenly leaked or the mixer needs to be replaced, but also by the plumber who has recently started his career.

Linen, indeed, is not the easiest and most convenient material. Linen does not look aesthetically pleasing, fluffy and easily torn, and flax fibers constantly cling to threads or clothes. Almost weightless, they fly around the room and, having finished the job, the plumber has to spend time finding and collecting all the threads.

In various videos from the series on how to wind tow on a thread, there are peremptory tips on preparing a thread. They touch the notches. Notches prevent flax from slipping during winding, twisting and further operation. However, not in all cases.

Firstly, notches are completely unnecessary when the pipe is larger in diameter than the thread. The protruding part of the pipe will therefore hold back the tow.

Secondly, it makes no sense to make notches if the master masterfully handles tow and has extensive practical experience.

Thirdly, on special threads, notches are made in advance by the manufacturer. If you want, then this is a kind of hint to the master.

How to wind flax and how much to measure? This is also a controversial and frequently asked question. And here, too, there is no universal answer. Some advise to rewind a strand equal to the thickness of two matches. Others call the figure 5 mm. In fact, only practice will show what length and width of the strand is suitable for a thread of a particular diameter. Before winding the tow on the thread completely, practice.

Sanitary flax (tow). How to wind flax on a thread?

Unwind several different strands, try on and find the best option.

There are several ways. Here is the fastest one:
1. Hold the tail of the thread at the end of the thread
2. Fasten crosswise
3. We move to the beginning of the thread and put a strand in each turn
4. Then we return to the end of the thread, making another layer
5. We fix the tail of the thread at the beginning of the thread
6. Apply plumbing paste

Those who know well how to wind tow, determine the number of layers by eye. In most cases, 2-3 coats are sufficient. The main thing is that no carving is visible under the linen, so that it completely covers the entire surface.

Before applying the paste, check the density of the winding. To do this, flax is trying to scroll. It should fit snugly against the thread and not move.

Twist the connection by hand with great effort and tighten with a wrench.

In theory - nothing complicated. In practice, making a quality connection the first time is unlikely to succeed. We recommend doing a few trials. So you will understand how to properly wind flax on the thread, and whether it is worth using this sealant at all.

What's in place of flax?

Plumbing flax, in addition to inconvenient application, has a number of disadvantages:
Short shelf life of the compound - 3-5 years
Instability to aggressive environments
Work with pressure up to 6-8 atmospheres
Risk of corrosion on threads

An alternative to tow is polymer threads and anaerobic gels. Anaerobic sealants are designed to seal threaded and flanged metal joints, and threads (winding) can also be used on plastic.

If we compare the price of flax and paste with an easy-to-use and effective modern sealant, then the difference is almost not noticeable. Just a few tens of rubles. And the quality of the connection, the speed of assembly and the service life cannot even be compared.

Polymer plumbing thread and anaerobic sealants:
Approved for use in aggressive environments and drinking water systems
Withstand pressure of 40 atmospheres and above, as well as vibrations and drops
Protect threads from corrosion and leakage for 20 years
Do not require training and are accompanied by detailed instructions
Do not dry out and after opening the package retain their properties for several years
Form a connection stronger than the pipes themselves

Don't know how to wind flax on a thread? Choose sealants with which such problems will not arise.

Linen plus paste: sealing threads in plumbing and heating

Flax and paste are such a convenient thing to use that even a beginner will not leak the first thread. So I used linen and paste when I sculpted my heating system for the first time, and not a single connection leaked. Why flax and pasta? Before that, I used fumlenty. And I must admit, it was not always possible to wind it up the first time without alterations.

What is sanitary paste

Paste is something like graphite grease. It is a bit like SHRUS automotive grease, but the automotive grease is greasy, it stains hands a lot.

How to wind flax on a thread

And the paste also, of course, stains, but it is washed off with soap without any problems. Flax + paste sets are often sold in stores as a set in one package. Well, you can also buy them separately.

So let's get started. To begin with, I rolled up such a flagellum from flax:

Then he coated the thread with a thin layer of paste. I smeared it directly with my finger (this is a combination coupling, on which control valves were screwed to connect radiators):

After that, he began to wind a flagellum of flax on the thread, sinking it into the threads, trying to get the flax fibers smeared in the paste. When the second turn began, it was additionally smeared on top with paste as it was wound.

As a result, this is what happened:

Only Unipak used the paste. There was another one in the store, I don’t remember what brand, half the price, but for some reason I didn’t dare to buy it. The entire heating system took less than two small tubes of 65 grams! And I did not save it, I spent as much as needed.

Each radiator is 3 1/2" threaded connections. There are 8 radiators in total, 24 connections in total.

2 plugs and 2 Americans for a gas boiler with a 1 1/2 (one and a half) inch thread. Total 4 connections

Electric boiler: 2 adapters from 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" threads + two American 1 1/4. Total 4 connections.

Two connections per dirt filter - 1 inch

Two connections per circulation pump - 1 inch.

And the little things - pressure gauge, safety valve, expansion tank, what else. That seems to be all.

On small threads (1/2 inch) paste is consumed very little, just a few drops. The main expense was for boilers, a filter, a pump, where the thread is from an inch or more.

The summary is this: working with flax and pasta is easy and convenient.

And the fact that your hands get dirty, and if you grab a white polypropylene pipe, then the pipe is nonsense. Hands are washed with soap, the pipe is simply wiped with a cloth.

You can put your rating by clicking on the corresponding arrow:

How to wind flax on a thread?

Hello dear DIYers.

Until now, linen has been the best winding for carving. First, I will substantiate this statement, and then we will analyze the execution process piece by piece.

The first alternative to linen is fum tape. There are at least three reasons why it should be abandoned.

1. It is not known who made it, despite what is indicated on the label, which means there are no quality guarantees.

2. It takes a long time to wind it.

You can't unscrew it, just cut it.

Linen is a completely different matter.

Here are four reasons why you should use it:

1. One hundred percent guarantee against leakage.

2. Speed and accuracy of execution.

3. The ability to adjust any connection back and forth, without the risk of leakage.

4. Easy disassembly, no matter how old it is.

Now how is it done.

Everyone knows that flax is not wound dry. Previously, it was impregnated with paint, but now, thanks to technological progress, silicone has appeared.

If the connection with paint did not look very neat, and you had to disassemble it with a blowtorch, then with silicone it is a completely different matter.

So, we take a threaded part, a flax pigtail, a syringe with silicone, and separate a small part from the pigtail for winding.

And in general, after the first time it will become clear. If it squeezes out too much, then we take less.

If during the winding process you realize that there is already too much linen, just cut off the remnants. The remaining tail is also started in the direction of the thread.

After that, with a finger, we smooth the entire winding so that the hairs do not stick out on the sides, and most importantly, do not block the through hole.

Now we wrap, while it is imperative that part of the winding squeeze out. It is easily removed with a rag, and the more you press the rag against the part, the more accurate the connection will be.

This is how flax winding is done.

I wish you success in your work.

Section Construction >>> Subsection Heating>>>

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In order to achieve the strength and tightness of the connection, builders and plumbers use flax or a special linen tow in their work, which is wound around the threads of the butt joints.

To achieve truly desired results, it is important to know how to wind linen on threads correctly.

Instructions on how to wind flax on a thread

In order to properly wind flax on a thread, you will need:
- tow (linen);
- silicone;
- plumbing key.

Prepare the connecting elements by first cleaning them from rust, if there is such a thing. You can use fine sandpaper for this. When removing rust, be careful not to damage the thread.

Take the tow and separate a small strip of fibers from the main bundle, which you spread along the entire length. There should be enough fiber to make the connection tight, but not tight, otherwise, when the temperature rises, for example, in a heating pipe, the junction may simply burst. In addition, excess flax will be squeezed out of the threaded connection during assembly, and this will almost certainly cause a new leak.

Pay attention to the fact that pipelines with threaded threads, as a rule, have a fairly rough surface, but fittings with a smooth surface must be prepared. To do this, use a plumbing wrench or a triangular needle file to apply small notches over the threads.

Take the linen, and attach the end of the fiber to the very edge of the thread. Start winding the tow in the opposite direction from tightening the nut. It should be wound in such a way that each subsequent turn tightly presses the previous one. If there is not enough flax fiber to cover the entire thread, take another bunch.

On top of the fiber that is wound on the thread, apply a thin layer of silicone or a special paste: this will achieve a tight connection.

Twist the threads while the silicone has not yet cured. Remember, there are 8-10 minutes before the end of this chemical reaction. There is no point in fixing that small amount of tow that remains outside the joint - the sealant will hold linen well. However, plumbers working with metal pipes sometimes just set fire to the end of the bundle. Doing this at home is not recommended.

Tow for pipes is one of the most popular sealants on the Russian market. popular for many decades due to its low price, availability and relatively good sealing of joints under special conditions. on the thread is relevant for temporary threaded connections and those located in the public domain, i.e. are always in sight, the leak is easy to fix and immediately fix. Joints on linen work up to a maximum temperature of 120-140 °C, but sometimes this figure is reduced to 70 °C. It all depends on the quality of the material and the additional sealing agent - plumbing paste.

How to wind tow

This question is asked not only by the owner of the apartment, where the faucet suddenly leaked or the mixer needs to be replaced, but also by the plumber who has recently started his career. , indeed, not the easiest and most convenient material. Linen does not look aesthetically pleasing, fluffy and easily torn, and flax fibers constantly cling to threads or clothes. Almost weightless, they fly around the room and, having finished the job, the plumber has to spend time finding and collecting all the threads.

So, in order, the information is confirmed by the test reports of the leading manufacturers of polystyrene concrete, I wrote a conclusion for myself at the end of the commentary. MOISTURE RESISTANCE and HYGROSCOPICITY This is the most important property of any building material, especially in areas with high humidity. The higher the moisture resistance of the material, the more durable, stable and warmer it is. Polystyrene concrete absorbs no more than 6% of moisture from the atmosphere, it can be in the open air for almost unlimited time. STRENGTH Due to the super-strong cement-polystyrene matrix, polystyrene concrete has unique strength characteristics. This material is so durable that a fall from the height of a five-story building will not cause significant damage to the block. FIRE RESISTANCE Polystyrene concrete does not burn, it is able to withstand the enormous temperatures caused by fire, due to its unique thermal conductivity coefficient, it does not allow heat to penetrate deep into the wall. Flammability class NG. Fire resistance class EI180. DURABILITY The service life of a house made of polystyrene concrete is at least 100 years. Over the years, the strength of polystyrene concrete only increases. FROST RESISTANCE Tests for frost resistance and the amplitude of temperature fluctuations from + 75°С to - 30°С were carried out on 150 freeze-thaw cycles without loss of integrity and heat-insulating ability. THERMAL INSULATION It has long been recognized that polystyrene (styrofoam) is the best heat insulator in the world, it is even warmer than wood! A house made of polystyrene concrete does not require insulation: it is cool in summer and warm in winter. NOISE INSULATION Polystyrene concrete provides the best noise absorption rate, 18-20 cm dampens sound from 70 decibels. Consequently, there is special comfort in the house made of polystyrene concrete: noise from the street and inside from neighboring rooms and bathrooms does not disturb. ECONOMY The cost per square meter of a finished wall is cheaper than other materials. Due to the high level of heat retention, walls made of polystyrene concrete can be built 25% thinner than from alternative materials (aerated concrete and foam concrete) and 4 times thinner than brick. Savings on wall thickness lead to overall savings in the construction of the box (foundation, roof and walls) up to 50%. At the same time, the quality of the house will be even higher, and the house itself will be warmer. SEISMIC RESISTANCE Seismic resistance 9-12 points. Polystyrene concrete has not only compressive strength, but also the highest tensile and bending strength. Therefore, polystyrene concrete is considered the most reliable and earthquake-resistant material. LIGHTNESS A large-sized block 200x300x600 mm does not exceed the weight of 17 kg, which facilitates the work of a bricklayer and reduces the time for laying walls: it replaces 20 bricks in volume, and almost three times lighter in weight. ANTISEPTICITY The additive used in the manufacture of polystyrene concrete does not allow insects, rodents to start up in the walls, prevents the formation of mold and fungus that have a negative impact on health. VAPOR PERMEABILITY Polystyrene concrete walls “breathe” similarly to wood walls, and there is no danger from condensation and waterlogging for them. This provides a comfortable environment in houses made of polystyrene concrete. PLASTICITY Plasticity is the only material made of cellular concrete that makes it possible to produce window and door lintels, its bending strength is 50-60% of the compressive strength, for concrete this parameter is 9-11%. CRACK RESISTANCE Polystyrene concrete, due to its elasticity, is incredibly resistant to cracking. And this guarantees a long period of preservation of interior decoration and durability of the whole house. MANUFACTURING High speed of erection of wall structures due to the lightness and convenient geometry of the blocks. Easily sawn and chiseled, the ability to give the building material any geometric shape. ENVIRONMENTAL The International Building Code (IRC) classifies polystyrene as one of the most energy efficient and environmentally friendly insulation materials. Thus, polystyrene concrete has a lot of undeniable advantages over materials such as expanded clay concrete, autoclaved and non-autoclaved aerated concrete, foam concrete, wood concrete, etc. The disadvantages of polystyrene concrete appear only if its brand is chosen incorrectly and the masonry technology and preparation for interior decoration are violated. It can be said with absolute certainty that there is not a single significant advantage for materials such as aerated concrete and foam concrete over polystyrene concrete. At the same time, polystyrene concrete significantly surpasses them in key characteristics.

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