How to assemble a sliding wardrobe step by step instructions. Step-by-step instructions for assembling and installing a wardrobe door. buffer tape sticker

Each apartment must have such a multifunctional piece of furniture as a wardrobe. It will save space in your home and organize the space. Not everyone can afford to buy it due to various circumstances. This is not a reason to refuse such a thing. A jack of all trades, it will not be difficult to make and assemble it yourself.

Of course, some knowledge is required. There is nothing complicated here, as it seems at first glance. In addition, what joy and pride you will experience from the work done. After all, furniture assemblers charge a fairly high fee, and you can handle it on your own.

After the decision to buy a closet has been made, it becomes necessary to correctly assemble it.

To assemble the purchased furniture, you need to follow the cabinet assembly instructions supplied by the manufacturer. There are certain rules. Following them, you will assemble any item of high quality and in a short time.

You should not take everything out of the packages at once, especially mix parts from different packs. Follow the sequence.
Read the instructions carefully so that later there are no overlays and you do not have to redo it again.
Make sure that the fittings and components are in place. Otherwise, you will not be able to fully assemble the furniture. Handles must match the color scheme. It is necessary that the guides for drawers have a soft stroke.
Assemble one section at a time. You need to start from the bottom, gradually moving to the sides.
Open the package, lay out the parts, prepare the tools.
Mirrors, glasses are installed at the final stage. This is how you avoid damage.

For assembly, you need a screwdriver, screwdriver, hex key, tape measure.

If you yourself are engaged in manufacturing, then it will be much easier to assemble.

It is very important to follow the assembly sequence, otherwise you will be forced to disassemble and reassemble the cabinet in the correct sequence.

How to work with laminated chipboard - a popular material for cabinet furniture

Currently, in the manufacture of furniture, chipboard is mainly used. This is the fundamental. Represents wood shavings of large dispersion. By hot pressing, it is shaped into a sheet. In the manufacture of plates, formaldehyde resins are used, they are an additional component. The difference from simple chipboard lies in the coating with a film made of paper and melamine resin. According to environmental indicators, it is better to use class E1 materials. Chipboard boards have good compaction, thanks to which the furniture made from them is strong and has a long service life.

Fastening the rail on the cabinet door

If you think that this material has the same composition, then you are mistaken. By coating they are divided into veneered, rough and laminated. According to the composition of quality, they can be divided into three grades: the first - they use first-class sawdust (usually a tree of the same species). The surface is flawless, not a single chip. The plate is decorated, laminated with a film or veneer. The second grade - you can already see small defects. Facing may or may not be. Third - there are already tangible defects. Such plates are not covered by anything.

While the cabinet is not completely assembled, make sure that the attached parts do not tilt, as the fasteners can be broken out.

In addition, chipboard is moisture resistant and refractory (withstand high temperatures). They are mainly used to make the furniture body, but are also used in the production of partitions or used as interior decoration. It is worth mentioning that chipboard, due to its composition, perfectly holds nails and self-tapping screws.

In order to stiffen the closet, it is necessary to fix the back wall.

The main “steps” for assembling do-it-yourself wardrobes are indicated in the instructions.

Furniture from these plates has many advantages compared to other materials.

Acceptable prices.
No manufacturing difficulties.
Q factor.
Significant period of use.
Variety of colors and decorations. This will help to perfectly match the furniture in the living room, kitchen or children's room.
Perfectly harmonizes with other materials.

Such furniture looks great in any interior.

Another important feature of laminated chipboard is that these plates have heat and sound insulation. Therefore, they can sheathe the walls of the room.

Make sure that the holes for the shelves and the hanger rod mounts match the holes on the opposite rack.

Also, if you started a redevelopment of an apartment / house, knowing how to assemble a wardrobe yourself will help you quickly and easily solve the issue of moving this furniture.

What tools are needed

Significant costs in the acquisition of the tool will not be required. To assemble a kitchen set, wardrobe or hallway, you need to have the usual set of tools: a screwdriver, a hex key for confirmation, a screwdriver, various drills, a bit for confirmation, an awl, a pencil, a tape measure, a square, fine-grained sandpaper, an electric drill, a clerical knife, iron, joint knife, rubber mallet, fixative for details.

The distance between opposite corners should be the same.

Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands is quite easy and everyone can do it simply by using the instructions.

It is unrealistic to guess what tool you will need to assemble furniture. It depends on whether the project is difficult or not.

Now you need to install the wardrobe doors.

To open the closet, you do not need to remove chairs or move other furniture.

Preparation before assembly

First you need to prepare the room. The final outcome of the case depends on this, how much time you spend on work. The important point is that nothing interferes. Make sure all materials and necessary tools are at hand.

As a depth limiter, you can use a plastic dowel 6 or 8 mounted on a drill.

With the help of a sliding wardrobe, you visually separate different areas in the room, for example, a work area from a recreation area.

Assembling furniture at first glance seems to be a simple matter. Many people make mistakes, as a result of which defects appear: the doors and sashes are weakly adjacent, when the doors are opened, they can creak, due to misalignment of the holes, the parts are skewed, the furniture is unreliable on the floor. To avoid this, you must follow certain rules and instructions.

Built-in wardrobes of various models, made from natural and artificial materials, are very popular in interior design.

Some models of the closet are able to transform to the features of the room: the presence of a corridor, recesses in the wall, where you can put the closet.

Basic assembly steps

The assembly of the wardrobe is carried out strictly according to the scheme, vertically or horizontally. The second option is better, so you can prevent skew of the parts to be joined. If the height of the ceilings does not allow you to raise the finished cabinet, then work is best done in an upright position.

You will be able to assemble a wardrobe of the "compartment" type with your own hands if you follow the step-by-step instructions.

In such a closet, you can put twice as many clothes, while not at the expense of the enormity of the furniture itself.

First of all, you need to attach the base and adjustable legs to the bottom. They are necessary if the floor is uneven. Next, we proceed to the assembly of the body. We connect the sides to the base. To make the structure strong, we attach an intermediate rack and a shelf. This is necessary so that the sidewalls do not roll. After we fasten the remaining parts, attach the cover. It is advisable not to nail the back wall, but to screw it onto self-tapping screws. At this stage, we put the cabinet in its place. We install guides for drawers, holders for shelves, a bar for hangers. Check that the drawers should slide out smoothly.

You need to familiarize yourself with all the details of the product (so as not to confuse anything during the assembly process and not have to start all over again), prepare the tools and the place where the assembly and installation will take place.

This job will take a lot of your time.

Next up is the installation of the doors. First we fix the guides, then we fix the rail on the screws. We insert the doors, check that they open and close smoothly. Correct them if necessary. Lastly, we glue the sealing brushes. We attach plugs to the holes of the confirmations.

As a rule, sliding wardrobes, like all furniture, are assembled in the lying position of the cabinet.

Do not skew cabinet parts, keep even corners.

Summing up, we can say that assembling a wardrobe is not such a difficult job. Your desire, skill and ability will make it easy.

After you have done everything, be sure to check how the doors work (whether they creak, move freely, etc.), how shelves and other details are firmly fixed.

Be careful until the cabinet body is assembled and the back wall is installed, all fasteners can be easily broken out.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself wardrobe. How to assemble a closet?

Sliding wardrobe - a universal piece of furniture. It can compactly accommodate a lot of things, leaving free usable area of the apartment. The only negative: the assembly of a wardrobe from master furniture makers is expensive. However, you can save money - assemble a wardrobe with your own hands.

Choosing a place and measuring the area under the wardrobe

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, it is recommended that a novice master, firstly, arm himself with instructions and watch training videos on the topic: how to assemble a wardrobe at home. Secondly, choose the right place for the closet and draw a diagram of the future design. The thing is that the furniture is made with perfectly even corners. Floors may be uneven. Therefore, to avoid warping the cabinet, arm yourself with a water level, plumb line or square and choose a suitable place.

Using a tape measure, take measurements and apply on a sheet of paper. Construction flaws in details that are not visually visible on paper will become noticeable (if any). Be sure to measure the distance between the walls at the bottom and top of the cabinet. In the end, you should get an approximate diagram.

Cabinet assembly: step by step instructions

The assembly instructions for the wardrobe will allow even a novice master to perform high-quality installation work. Before starting work, prepare the necessary accessories:

shelf-toucans - 12 pcs.,
adjustable legs - 6 pcs.,
sliding door system
pipe Fi25 for hangers,
rod flanges - 4 pcs.,
mortise handles - 4 pcs.

For fastening the frame, shelves, doors:

universal screws (3x16 and 3.5x30),
plastic corners (20 pcs.),
confirmations (6.4x50 - 100 pcs.),
confirmation plugs (50 pcs.),
stops and restraints.

To install the wardrobe yourself, you will need the following tools:

a set of screwdrivers (cross-shaped and straight);
imbus key,
cord plumb,
level,
pliers,
a hammer,
screwdriver,
roulette,
stationery knife.

Step one: installing the base

The assembly of the wardrobe begins with the installation of the base, namely the base and legs. We take a part, which is called the base, and make drawings on it.

We fix the base with the help of confirmations. Since this zone will not fall into the field of view, the cabinet is on legs, and not on the plinth, you can use plastic corners. We fasten the legs with screws 3.5x30.

4 parts of the base are also fastened together with confirmations.

Step Two: Assembling the Case

Having assembled the base of the cabinet at home, proceed to the installation of the body - sidewalls, partitions, roofs.

We fix the side walls with confirmations.
We fix the back wall with screws (no need to nail).
We install vertical piers and a roof on confirmations.
We fasten the cross ties in each section separately, at different levels. Thus, it will be possible to provide the necessary rigidity over the entire height of the structure. In the center we will install one continuous unifying screed.

It is very important to correctly install the stiffeners. Otherwise, the cabinet may wobble. The role of stiffeners will be performed by transverse ties together with the back wall of the cabinet.

Step Three: Install Shelves

As a rule, even for beginners, assembling shelves does not cause difficulties. Shelves are located in separate sections. There are several ways to attach them:

With an axial arrangement of shelves, a corner furniture screed should be installed. It will connect the horizontal plane of the shelf with the vertical intermediate wall. In order not to break the symmetry, install corner ties on each side of the central axis of the mounting wall.
Fastening the shelves with a "helicopter" - along the central wall of the cabinet. This method belongs to the category of non-standard. First you need to take one shelf and fix it in the center on the confirmation, turning it 90 ° along the axis. Attach the next shelf to 2 confirmations. Then return the previous shelf to its original position and reinforce it with tightening furniture corners.

If you want to have removable shelves, you do not need to fix them with confirmations. Install the "shelf supports" and insert the shelves. In this case, there is one big advantage - the absence of plugs from the holes on the visible side of the cabinet.

To install the shelf supports, make drawings on the inside, clearly defining the height of the shelves (make sure that even corners are maintained), make non-through holes with a 4.5 mm drill. The depth of the holes must not exceed 8 mm. It is recommended to use a drilling depth limiter, if there is none, a plastic dowel for 6 or 8, which is installed on the drill. Hammer the shelf supports into the holes.

Step four is the most important

The most important stage in the installation of a sliding wardrobe is the installation of doors. The door leaf must be level.

The work steps are as follows:

Install a door guide rail into the top opening of the cabinet. You need to fix it with screws.
Drill holes for the screws in the bottom profile.
Place a stopper on each end of the guide rail. Stoppers will fix the doorway in the closed position.
Insert the bottom profile inside the cabinet and screw it to the bottom.
Replace the sliding wardrobe door. Carefully insert the upper door rollers into the upper profile, and the lower rollers into the recess in the lower guide profile.
Adjust the doors to each side of the cabinet. This should be done when they are in the closed position. Adjust the wheels located on both sides of the door leaf. Adjust the left one along the left side surface of the cabinet, the right one, respectively, along the right side.
After making sure that the door leaves are set correctly, open and close freely, do not pull, fix the lower guide rail with screws.

At the end of the cabinet assembly, apply a rubber seal to each door to dampen the shock that occurs when opening and closing them. If you follow all the recommendations on how to assemble a wardrobe, you can easily and quickly complete all installation work without outside help.

Video version of the article

Where to start assembling a wardrobe

First you need to check whether all the spare parts were brought to you. There should be several boxes with chipboard (at least two), doors and packaging with hardware. The manufacturer can pack hardware and additional elements in a box with chipboard. Be careful when accepting the cabinet, as deliverers can sometimes forget some elements or may damage some of its parts, be sure to check this.

What tools will be needed to assemble the cabinet:

Phillips screwdriver PH2;
hex key, edge width 5 mm (L-shaped);
roulette (ruler);
level (optional)

The assembly process will be greatly accelerated if you have a screwdriver with bits (hex and cross), but you can do without it.

Preparing to assemble the wardrobe

Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands is a laborious process, so immediately find yourself an assistant who will help you hold or submit the spare part. Before proceeding with the assembly, you need to open all the packages and sort the boards by size. After that, it will be easier to determine which elements are which.

Each panel has characteristic openings for connection, by which it is easy to determine its purpose.

There are 3 basic schemes for connecting chipboard:

with the help of confirmed screws;

eccentric couplers (minifixes);

one of the above methods, but with the addition of wooden dowels (chopics).

Each connection has its own characteristic holes on the plane and at the ends of the boards. Two types of holes are made for confirmations:

in one part through in a plane with a diameter of 7 mm;
in the second part, a deaf one with a diameter of 4.5 or 5 mm.

Under eccentric screeds, 2 pairs of holes are also made:

in one part it is deaf in a plane with a diameter of 5 mm where the minifix stem is screwed;
in the second part there is an 8 mm end hole connected to a recess in a plane with a diameter of 15 mm for a clamping cylinder.

Holes for dowels are made blind from the end and in the plane with the same diameter from 8 to 10 mm.

Before assembling a wardrobe, look at a set of hardware, by their presence it will become clear what type of connections you have and in what sequence to assemble the elements.

Before deciding on the details, it is worth remembering that for all boards the front side (end) is glued with an edge, and the back (where the fiberboard is nailed) remains bare. So you can correctly position the shelves, lintels and sidewalls.

The wardrobe is the most functional piece of furniture. It can be easily placed even in a small area. Such a design today is quite expensive, so it makes sense to assemble it with your own hands.

cabinet project

The first thing you need to do and decide on the place of its installation. In this case, everything is individual, there are no specific tips. You can install the cabinet in the closet, niche in the wall or corner of the room.

If there is enough free space, then the size of the structure should be chosen based on the rule of the golden section, that is, the ratio of height and length should be 1.62.

Figure 1. A variant of the drawing of the wardrobe.

If the ceilings in the room are 2.5 m high, then it is best to choose a cabinet length of 1.54 m (250 / 1.62 \u003d 1.543). In most cases, the standard depth of furniture parts is 60 cm. It is not recommended to do more than this depth, because it may be inconvenient to get clothes from the upper shelves. It should also be borne in mind that all the details that are located inside the structure should be 10 cm narrower.

When a suitable installation site is selected, you will need to draw up a drawing. It is advisable to make a detailed diagram of the cabinet and all shelves with dimensions. This can be done on a computer or on paper. Special software allows you to quickly calculate the number and dimensions of all boards for cutting.

The cabinet design process using special software consists of the following steps:

Determination of the dimensions of the manufactured cabinet.
Choosing the right material for manufacturing.
Breakdown of space inside into separate sections.
Filling this space with boxes (if necessary).
Determining the size and material of doors.
Adding additional side elements (if necessary).
Determination of the ends that need to be edged.
Selection of suitable fittings and its arrangement.

If you wish, you can print a 3D image of the cabinet to make it easier to assemble.

A drawing of the cabinet to be assembled is shown in Figure 1. The length of the cabinet is 1.5 m, the depth is 60 cm, and the height is 2.4 m.

This cabinet can be placed in the pantry if there is a beam on top. The doors will not go all the way to the ceiling.

Shelves are made of ordinary laminated chipboard in the color you like. To fix them, you need to use self-tapping screws and metal corners.

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Items to work

Figure 2. Scheme of a more advanced wardrobe.

After carrying out all the calculations, you will need to purchase all the necessary parts. Sawing and edge processing can be done independently or ordered from the manufacturer. However, it should be understood that at home it will not be possible to produce a high-quality cut. This is due to the fact that special tools are needed for cutting. In special workshops, it is possible to make cuts of complex shapes, shelves with round corners, cut out patterns, and so on.

The cost of sawing all the elements and their processing is a small part of the cost of the cabinet.

To order sawing parts from the manufacturer, you will need to have a ready-made drawing indicating all the dimensions of the elements.

You will need the following items:

3 boards 60x150 cm (will be placed horizontally);
2 boards 60x200 cm (located vertically);
1 piece 60x135 cm;
3 parts for shelves 60x32.5 cm;
1 sheet 30x150 cm for the shelf, which is placed behind the beam;
3 boards 40x30 cm for the shelf, which is placed behind the beam.

At this stage, it is important to avoid errors in the calculation, so before buying parts, you need to study the drawing and calculate the existing gaps.

The production costs of all elements in a special workshop will consist of:

drawing up a cutting map (it is recommended to entrust the cutting to the master);
cutting laminated chipboard;
skirting board production;
production of round parts.

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Cabinet assembly

You can assemble the cabinet with your own hands as follows:

Figure 3. Calculation of wardrobe doors.

First of all, you need to install the 60x150 cm part on the floor, and then fix 2 side boards to it. If the room has a baseboard, it is recommended to remove it so that you do not have to cut the walls at an angle. You can fix all the elements on dowels to the wall or on metal corners to the bottom board using self-tapping screws. In some cases, plastic furniture corners are used for shelves, but it should be understood that they are unreliable.
Next, the shelves are assembled, which will be located inside. To do this, you need to connect 2 horizontal parts 60x150 cm (which are located above the bar) with a board 60x135 cm and 3 transverse compartments of small sizes.
Finished compartments are fixed into the cabinet on the corners using self-tapping screws. If you can get to the side walls, then it is allowed to use euro screws for fixing. This element is often used to assemble cabinets.
Next, the upper shelves are installed, which are made separately from the outside. To do this, you need to fix 3 partitions 40x30 cm to the part 30x150 cm.

If a cabinet is made with a top cover that is equal to the length of the cabinet, then you should know that fixing it is quite problematic. In this case, you will need to leave the desired height so that you can pry the upper part with a hexagon. The lid can also be attached to metal corners.

The result is 2 large compartments for hangers, in which you can put outerwear, dresses, suits and so on. There will also be 1 large shelf on one side, and the other side will be divided into 3 small compartments. On top there will be one shelf of large width, which is divided into 3 small compartments near the wall. At the very top there is a shelf for clothes of small sizes.

The location of the shelves can be seen in Fig. 2.

To save space in the apartment, the owners often put wardrobes instead of "regular" designs. They are more spacious and fit perfectly into the interior, effectively spending every centimeter of space.

In addition to filling, the main element of such furniture are doors for the wardrobe. You can assemble and install them yourself - this task is not difficult.

There are no standard door sizes for sliding wardrobes: they can be made according to the desired length and width. But there are dimensions that are the most convenient.

The restrictions are:

Width: within 50-110 cm (optimally - 60-90 cm). Narrower doors can warp and pop out of the rails. Wider ones will be more difficult to move due to the large weight, and it will be inconvenient to use the shelves (you will have to move the door far to access).
Number of sashes: selected based on the width of the cabinet and the width of 1 sash. Most importantly, the doors should not interfere with the use of the contents. Actual if there are large wide compartments inside.

Doors for sliding wardrobes can be sliding and folding. Most often, sliding structures are used.

Their advantages:

Sliding doors, compared to folding doors, are simpler, harder to break and easier to fix.
Since the door moves along one plane parallel to the wall, there is no need to leave free space in front of the cabinet. This is true for small or narrow rooms (for example, corridors).

Types of sliding systems

Sliding doors can be of the following types:

Suspended. The door leaf is suspended on the upper rail, the lower one serves for fixing. Such a door will be easier to open, less fluctuate. If the lower rail is mounted in the floor (below the floor level) - the cabinet is obtained without a threshold, in the floor. Hanging systems are more often used for sliding interior doors, but can also be used for wardrobes.
Based on the lower profile. The door rests on the lower profile, the upper bar serves for fixing. Doors of this design are cheaper, easier to install, but the doors can play (back and forth).
Combined. The sash is fixed both on the lower and upper profile. The most reliable design - there is no play relative to the line of motion. Minus - such doors are difficult to install and cost more.

How to assemble and install wardrobe doors: step by step instructions

Structurally, the door consists of:

sashes (thickness from 4 to 10 mm, can be made of wood, glass, plastic, mirror);
rollers above and below (so that the door can move along the guides);
top profile;
lower profile;
intermediate profiles (if the door is composite);
handle profile.

We will consider the installation for the most common design - with the sash supported on the lower profile.

Calculation

Opening dimensions. It is necessary to choose a place where the cabinet will be located, accurately measure its height and width.
Width 1 sash. To calculate, you need to divide the total width of the opening (in cm) by the desired sash width (60-90 cm is the optimal indicator). When calculating, the overlap of the wings on each other is taken into account - it leaves about 25-50 mm. If there are 3 or more sashes, overlap is added on 2 sides for sashes that are not on the edge (they will have an overlap on 2 sides).

Let's give an example of calculations.

It is required to make a cabinet in the opening, 300 cm wide. There will be 3 sections 100 cm wide in the cabinet. The width of 1 sash is selected according to the width of 1 section.

We divide 300 by 100 - we get 3: there should be so many wings. The width of 2 side flaps will be 100 cm, the width of 1 central flap will be 100 + 5 + 5 (2 overlaps of 5 cm each) = 110 cm.

Allowable error

During calculations and installation, an error of up to ± 5 mm can be allowed. Remember that even 1-2 "wrong" mm can lead to sash play. It's not critical, but annoying.

Top rail installation

The guide profile is mounted flush with the side walls from above. There should be no gap between the side wall and the ends of the profile: its length should be equal to the internal width of the cabinet.

For fixing can be used:

Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
Countersunk head screws.

Since the sash will rest on the lower profile, and there will be no upper loads, the step between the screws is selected in the range of 25-35 cm. alternating).

Installing the bottom rail

Before installing the lower guide you need to "try on":

Mount the top profile.
Lay the lower profile on the bottom without screwing it with self-tapping screws. From the front edge, the guide should be offset by about 20-22 mm.
Install 1 sash.

After that, you can understand how many mm and in which direction you will need to move the lower guide. This should be done according to the level, checking the evenness along the entire length. When the profile takes the ideal place, it is marked with a line along the entire length.

Then the sash is removed, and the guide is screwed with screws to the bottom of the cabinet.

Assembling the frame for filling

If the doors are delivered disassembled, or if you are assembling the cabinet from scratch on your own, then the next step is to assemble the frame into which the infill is installed.

This will require:

2 vertical profiles along the height of the opening. There can be 2 types: C (asymmetric) or H (symmetrical). Their use is about the same, the differences are minor.
2 horizontal frames across the width of 1 sash.
2 top and 2 bottom rollers.
fasteners.
Drill with a drill for fasteners.
Adjustment screws.

If the filling is made up of several parts, then additional frames or profiles will be needed.

Assembly step by step:

"Try on" the elements to each other: lay out the profiles on the floor in the form of a future frame. This is necessary so as not to make a mistake with drilling holes.
"Try on" the lower and upper rollers.
Subtract the height of the rollers from the height of the vertical profiles, trim them. An important nuance: the cuts must be made at right angles so that the profile stands exactly in the opening.
Holes are drilled in vertical profiles for connection with horizontal ones. Each hole must be drilled perfectly accurately, without minimal deviations, otherwise the frame will either assemble crookedly or the filling will not go in smoothly.
A rectangular frame is assembled.
The lower and upper rollers are installed.
Adjustment screws are installed.

The assembled frame can be “tried on” to the guides in the cabinet.

Fill setting

The following materials can be used to fill the sash:

MDF (thickness 6-12 mm). They can be plain, patterned or patterned. Pluses - cheapness, relatively low weight of the plate (250 × 90 × 1 cm - about 15-18 kg), ease of processing.
Mirror (4 mm thick), with anti-fragmentation protection on the reverse side. It is relevant to use as a filling if the closet is placed in the hallway or a small bedroom. It can occupy the entire area of the sash, be divided into several parts or occupy part of the area.
Glass (4 mm thick). May have a pattern, a different color.
Rattan. Rare option, more expensive than others. Plus, it looks expensive.

Filling is usually ordered according to the calculated size of the sash.

In addition to the filling itself, you will need a silicone sealing profile for installation.

To install the filling, the frame fasteners are loosened or completely unscrewed (the frame is disassembled). The profile is neatly put on a sheet (MDF, mirrors, glass - it doesn’t matter), assembled into a frame.

buffer tape sticker

Buffer tape is needed for:

protect the contents of the cabinet (things) from dust from the outside;
softening the impact of the doors on the side walls.

It looks like a thin strip of a dense elastic base with a pile (can be of different lengths) on one side, a sticky surface on the other.

The tape is glued on the reverse side of the vertical profile of the frame.

Inserting the sash into the guides

The assembled sash remains to be installed in the guides. This is done, always starting from the far profile (that is, the sash is placed first, which stands further, then - which stands closer).

Step by step description:

The door is moved to the opening.
The sash rises to the position where it will be installed in the cabinet.
The top part tilts and moves towards the top rail.
The rollers are driven into the groove of the upper profile.
The sash is lifted and the lower rollers are guided into the groove of the lower guide.
When the sash is installed, check the smoothness of its movement. If necessary, the doors are adjustable.
The second sash is installed (and the following, if any).
Check the smoothness of movement of the second sash. Adjust as necessary.

What can break

The main element that needs frequent replacement is the rollers on which the sash rides in the lower guide. If the door began to open poorly (not smoothly, tight) - they need to be replaced.

For this:

Remove the sash with which there are problems.
Lay her on the floor. Since the sash is heavy and high, this must be done carefully so as not to drop it on furniture or on the wall.
Remove damaged rollers.
Take 1 damaged roller and go to any furniture store to buy new ones. The approximate cost of a set of 2 simple rollers is 300-400 rubles.
Screw on new ones.
Install the sash back.

How long does the assembly process take, and is it possible to handle it yourself

The process of installing door leaves on average takes about 2-3 hours, including measurements, installation of profiles, assembly and installation of doors (from 3-4 leaves). To insert the sash into the guides, it is better to ask someone to help. The average weight of the canvas is 15-25 kg (depending on the filling), so it is problematic to install it yourself in the lower guide.

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