How to insulate a garage, how to insulate a garage with your own hands. Garage insulation - inexpensive ways of internal thermal insulation How to insulate a garage box from the inside

It is desirable to maintain an optimal microclimate in the garage. If you manage to competently insulate the building, you will significantly reduce heating costs, while the conditions will be quite comfortable for work, technical inspection and car repair. For example, in unstable weather with average temperatures in spring and autumn, you will not need to take care of heating at all, and in cold winters, energy consumption will be much less. Optimal solution - . It is this method that is quite popular, trusted even by experienced motorists.

The secret of foam plastic is its economy and high efficiency as a heater. At the same time, you can also save on construction work, since the owners of the garage will be able to cope with the installation of such a layer of insulation on their own. Today we will learn in more detail how to insulate a garage with polystyrene foam, how it is better to work with the material, how its varieties differ from each other.

Creating optimal conditions in the garage room is of great importance. For example, if there are severe colds, and the surfaces are not insulated, the gates can become covered with a large layer of frost. To improve conditions, it is necessary to insulate walls, gates, and not close ventilation. After all, it is thanks to the ventilation openings that excess moisture leaves the room, the formation of condensate and metal corrosion are prevented.

Experts note that in the garage it is desirable to maintain a temperature of at least five degrees Celsius. At the same time, ventilation must also be ensured.

Why styrofoam? Material Advantages

What is the reason for the high popularity of this material? Why do many far-sighted motorists choose to insulate the garage with polystyrene foam? Consider the key advantages of the material.

  • Styrofoam is a fairly economical insulation. In terms of price-quality ratio, it surpasses many other materials. For example, he "overtook" mineral wool by 50%.
  • It is quite convenient during the installation process. Even a person without the skills of a builder will be able to cope with the sheathing of the garage with foam sheets.
  • In terms of its properties, the material in many respects not only resembles the popular mineral wool, but also surpasses it.
  • The water resistance of this type of insulation plays an important role, since it is in the garage that the probability of high humidity is high, but this must be dealt with. After all, condensate is very dangerous for the car, its metal parts. Just with foam, corrosion can be prevented.

Some are confused by the fact that the foam is still a combustible material. And fuel and lubricants are almost always present in the garage. But here the solution is very simple. Now they produce special brands of this insulation, which already contain flame retardants. Such additives provide attenuation, allow you to achieve the proper level of fire safety.

Varieties of foam

We will try to learn more about the material and its types, their technical features, advantages and disadvantages, differences. Thinking through the insulation of the garage with polystyrene foam, it is important to choose the most suitable type of material. The features of the varieties mainly depend on the category of the polymer, because it is he who is the basic component of the insulation material.

Styrofoam

The most popular, widely demanded type of foam is polystyrene foam. It is quite often used for thermal insulation of garages inside and out. Expanded polystyrene can be extruded, non-pressed and pressed.

When it comes to the insulation of a garage room, in which there are special requirements for the level of fire safety, it is advisable to choose the PSB-S brand. Such material does not support combustion, is resistant to elevated temperatures, and contains effective fire retardants. In addition, this material is safe from an environmental point of view, does not emit toxic substances into the environment.

Let's outline the key advantages of expanded polystyrene.

  • The material is resistant to the negative effects of chemicals, aggressive environments.
  • The insulation is not afraid of insects, fungus.
  • Affordable cost matters a lot.
  • Processing polystyrene foam is easy.
  • The level of thermal conductivity is minimal.
  • It has good soundproofing properties.
  • It has good resistance to moisture, steam, practically does not pass water.

When Styrofoam is produced conscientiously, it is virtually non-toxic.

Penoizol

Penoizol is a more modern building material. Now it is better known as liquid foam. With its properties, it differs from the usual plates of heat-insulating material, since it is customary to manufacture it right at the construction site. For this, special foam generators are used. When the mixture of insulation is whipped, it is filled with prepared cavities. Then the material hardens. You can make briquettes in advance if you first pour the mixture into prepared forms.

Unfortunately, from an economic point of view, some difficulties may arise with such material, since it can hardly be called budgetary. You will have to competently knead the composition in compliance with the technology, use special equipment. And this will require additional investment.

However, the benefits of penoizol are significant.

  • Liquid foam guarantees a high level of thermal insulation. It is this material that has the highest performance in terms of heat resistance among other types of foam.
  • The minimum service life of the insulation is, according to the most conservative estimates, 40 years.
  • Of particular importance is complete environmental safety.
  • The material will allow without additional investments to ensure fire safety, since it does not support combustion.
  • Penoizol has an increased resistance to biological and chemical negative influences.
  • Such a heater allows you to maintain a good microclimate in the room due to optimal moisture permeability.

Note! It is necessary to purchase penoizol from reliable, well-established suppliers in the construction market, since this effective material is often faked, violating the technology in the underground production process.

polyurethane foam

This is the material with the most pores. It is famous for its unique adhesion. Usually polyurethane foam is applied by spraying directly onto the walls.

Here are the important advantages of polyurethane foam.

  • The thermal insulation layer is continuous, seamless.
  • The space is used rationally, since this heat-insulating material takes up a minimum of space.
  • The service life is at least 70 years.
  • The material is non-toxic, environmentally friendly.
  • With sharp temperature changes, it retains its properties.
  • Possesses the increased resistance to mechanical influences.

The main disadvantage is the need to use special equipment for applying the material.

Styrofoam insulation outside

A good solution is to use foam as an external insulation. Then cold bridges are not formed in winter, the formation of condensate is prevented. When foam is used for internal insulation, it is extremely important to ensure good ventilation of the room.

Preparing the work surface

Do you have a brick garage? Then the foam will fit just perfect. It will prevent weathering of the seams, extend the life of the walls, improve sound insulation and minimize heat loss. Styrofoam is also perfect for garage rooms made of other building materials.

Before warming, all work surfaces must be prepared. Walls, ceilings, gates must be cleaned of dust, dirt, old plaster. The base under the insulation layer must be clean, durable. Then the foam will be able to fix well. All cracks, chips must be covered with a layer of plaster in order to achieve evenness of the surface.

We mount the foam

When the walls of the garage are insulated from the inside with foam, it is important to pay special attention to the installation of the material. The thermal insulation properties, as well as the service life of the coating, will largely depend on this.

When concrete or brick walls are insulated, 25-density foam with a thickness of 10 cm is usually used. Two layers of 5 cm can be applied. Longitudinal and transverse seams are tied up.

Here is an approximate algorithm of work. If necessary, it can be slightly changed, improved.

  1. Pre-prime the surface to improve adhesion with the adhesive.
  2. Apply glue with medium-sized "blots". You can use a notched trowel.
  3. Sheets are pressed quite tightly.
  4. Cover the wall from the bottom up.
  5. Lay sheets of insulation in a checkerboard pattern.
  6. Use planks attached with dowels to the surface.
  7. The masonry elements are additionally fixed with plastic dowels when the adhesive composition is completely frozen.

In general, installation is quite simple. The main thing is to be careful, to do everything more carefully so that the insulation layer is continuous.

Garage roof insulation

It also needs to be insulated. Unfortunately, many motorists forget about this. They prefer to make a kind of box out of heat-insulating material, and the roof is left unattended. As a result, it is no longer necessary to achieve a temperature regime.

Here are some helpful tips.

  • If you are insulating the ceiling in the garage using foam, you should not drill holes for the bars. Better to use glue.
  • When the roof consists of reinforced concrete slabs, it is advisable to take care of external and internal insulation.
  • If you apply foam from the outside, you will have to additionally make a plaster screed. The best solution is to lay a waterproofing layer between the insulation and the plaster. You can use roofing material, film.
  • Is the crate cracked? Then fix the layers of insulation between the rafters. After that, you can use a waterproofing film.
  • Do you have a continuous crate, a good truss system? In this case, waterproofing is laid on top, and the insulation is fixed under the crate.
  • Waterproofing film requires careful attention. Make sure that it does not come into direct contact with the insulation layer if it has a reduced vapor permeability.

The best scheme for insulating the roof of a garage is as follows: waterproofing - thermal insulation - vapor barrier.

Insulating garage doors

It is very important to correctly insulate garage doors. Then there will be no problems with their freezing, the formation of cold bridges. It is also desirable to provide a small door in the gate. This will greatly increase energy efficiency, since it is impractical to run such a wide stream of cold air into the garage every time.

Remember the most important points.

  1. First of all, exclude the influx of cold air through the cracks. All air gaps are eliminated. Joints can be removed using rubber seals, as well as self-adhesive tape.
  2. Ventilation is of great importance. Excess moisture must be eliminated so that condensation does not form, leading to metal corrosion. Good air circulation will eliminate all problems. Please note: there must be special protective nets on the ventilation openings, which will become a reliable barrier to insects, rodents and birds.
  3. If you insulate the gate with polystyrene foam, you should take additional care of aesthetics. For example, use lining, plastic panels as a facing material.

Good in the garage will prevent temperature fluctuations, eliminate the possibility of the formation of cold bridges. This is especially important in winter, when the air temperature is extremely low, and the gates are so frosted over that it is even difficult to open them.

Video: learning to insulate walls in the garage

Want to know more useful information about the inside? Then this video is definitely for you.

In this video, all the useful information, tips are presented clearly, in the most accessible form.

Maintaining the right temperature in the garage is the key to a long service life of the car and other tools. In order to keep heat in such rooms as long as possible, it is necessary to properly insulate them, both outside and inside. Fortunately, today insulating the garage from the inside with your own hands has become a fairly simple matter. Almost every car enthusiast can do it.

In our country, most garages are a metal structure that is very difficult to warm up. No matter how actively such a room is heated, its heat loss will be maximum. For such structures, it is necessary to carry out insulation work in the first place.

If we consider a concrete or brick garage, then in such cases it will be much easier to insulate the garage with your own hands, and the result will be many times higher.

It may seem to an inexperienced layman that the main purpose of carrying out heat-insulating work in garage premises is to increase the temperature to room levels (+20 on average). But such an opinion can certainly be called erroneous. The temperature that is considered comfortable for a person is not suitable for equipment and a car. Sudden thermal changes, when the car drives from frost to heat, cause condensation to form. The moisture that appears settles on the details of the car, which is critical for it. Therefore, the experts concluded that the result of the insulation of the garage should be a temperature of +5 degrees. This indicator is considered as close as possible to the ideal conditions for storing a car.

Another misconception of car owners is that before they insulate the garage from the inside, they close up all the holes and crevices in it that air could penetrate from the outside. At first glance, this decision may seem correct, but it is only at first glance. In fact, quite a lot of harmful substances are produced in the garage during the arrival and parking of the car, which are considered dangerous to human health. The same substances are capable of releasing the materials themselves used for the thermal insulation of the garage. In addition, all the moisture that enters the room can only disappear through weathering. This state of affairs suggests that before insulating the garage with your own hands, it is necessary to build a decent ventilation system in it.

If we consider the question: “How to insulate the garage correctly - from the outside or from the inside?”, Then the answer will be “Outside!”. The fact is that the insulation of the garage from the outside has a number of advantages over the internal insulation:

  • It does not steal extra centimeters of usable area;
  • It completely eliminates the risk of freezing of the premises;
  • It is not fraught with the influence of harmful substances emitted by heaters in an enclosed space.

All these arguments speak in favor of the external insulation of garage premises, but do not forget about the financial side of this issue - the insulation of the walls of the garage from the inside will cost a little less. However, in this situation, excessive savings will be unnecessary, since we are talking about human health. As mentioned above, before insulating the garage from the inside, ventilation must be done. The second important issue is the materials - they are also not worth saving.

Many people ask the question: "How to insulate the walls in the garage inexpensively?". The answer is simple: “It is cheap to insulate a garage, but is it worth it?”. The fact is that good thermal insulation material will cost more. In addition, when choosing a heater for a garage, it is imperative to pay attention to its characteristics, which must meet specific requirements. After all, all garage rooms are different and each of them may need its own type of thermal insulation.

Here is a list of the main materials used in our country for garage insulation:

This type of thermal insulation has been used effectively for a very long time. Mineral wool allows you to protect the room from the cold, while allowing it to breathe. For garage walls, it is best to use basalt wool, which has the best sound and heat insulation characteristics. The big disadvantage of this insulation material is the fear of moisture. Therefore, when using it, it is necessary to ensure good vapor barrier.

You can also insulate the walls of the garage with the help of this material. Its advantage is its low cost. But glass wool also has a number of disadvantages. These include: the need for maximum protection of the whole body (especially hands and face) during work, the fear of moisture (wet material is not suitable for use) and mandatory isolation.

Today, this material is considered the most popular for insulating houses and garages. The advantages of polystyrene include its relative cheapness, ease of use, resistance to moisture, decay. But he also has his drawbacks - poor breathability, flammability and fear of sunlight. That is why it is better to insulate the walls inside the garage with polystyrene foam, but only special self-extinguishing polystyrene foam must be used for this.

This type of insulation is a roll of foil, on one side of which polyurethane foam is applied. A huge advantage of reflective insulation is its thickness, which allows you to save space inside the room. However, high hopes for this type of insulation should not be placed - the principle of its operation is based on the reflection of heat in its mirror surface, and with induction and convection in the garage, this principle is not effective.

This type of insulation is a plaster with various impurities (expanded polystyrene grains, vermiculites and sawdust) that give it a heat-insulating effect. However, it should be noted that it is advisable to use this type of insulation only in addition to other heat insulators, since its independent use is impractical. To get the desired effect, you need to apply a very thick layer of insulating plaster.

This type of thermal insulation is also based on the addition of additional substances to the paint composition, which allow retaining heat inside the room. Thermal insulation paint can be used on wood, metal and plastic surfaces. Therefore, this type of insulation is ideal for a wooden garage, as it will allow the tree to breathe.

Floor insulation

If the garage has a cellar or basement, then in this situation floor insulation will be redundant. If there are no such premises, then any insulation will need to begin with the floor covering. Consider the three most popular ways of thermal insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

  1. We remove the top layer of the earth to a depth of 45 cm.
  2. We lay out any waterproofing material (for example, roofing material) along the bottom of the formed pit in such a way that it finds another 10 cm on the walls.
  3. Using a cement or gypsum mortar, we install beacons, which will serve as a level.
  4. We fall asleep roofing material with expanded clay with a layer of 25-30 cm.
  5. We remove the beacons and fill the places of their stay with expanded clay.
  6. We lay a reinforcing mesh 10x10cm on expanded clay.
  7. Installing new beacons.
  8. We fill the floor with concrete screed.
  9. Let the mortar dry and set (do not put pressure on the floor for at least a month).

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under the screed

This type of thermal insulation will allow not to remove the top layer of the earth, but at the same time it will “steal” about 20 cm in height from the room.

  1. Thoroughly clean the floor from debris and dust (preferably with a vacuum cleaner).
  2. We cover the floor surface with any waterproofing material (roofing material or dense polyethylene).
  3. We lay foam plastic at least 10 cm thick and C-25 density on the waterproofing. Styrofoam plates should fit as tightly as possible to each other.
  4. We cover the foam with another layer of waterproofing.
  5. We place a reinforcing mesh on it.
  6. We make a concrete floor screed.

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under a wooden floor

This method of insulation allows you to take away from the room only 10 cm of its height. For its use, you can use polystyrene foam of any density, but the boards should have a thickness of 5 cm. It is also necessary to stock up on a 5x5cm beam.

  1. Thoroughly clean the floor surface from debris and dust.
  2. We build logs from the beam, and between them we tightly lay the foam. The logs should be close to the wall.
  3. We lay a waterproofing material on top of the polystyrene foam.
  4. We cover the floor with a board.

Important! A grooved board is not suitable for such purposes - it needs a very rigid mount.

Wall insulation

There are several ways to insulate the walls of the garage - the choice will depend on the material from which the building was built. Insulation of a brick or concrete garage can be done using mineral or glass wool, polystyrene, for metal structures, polystyrene foam in slabs, polyurethane foam or heat-insulating paint are best suited. Please note that you will most likely need to install .

Insulation of walls with foam plastic under plaster

  1. We clean the surface of the wall from old coatings.
  2. Align the walls with putty.
  3. We prime them.
  4. We nail a wooden plank to the wall, which will serve as a level.
  5. We apply special glue to the foam (10 cm) pointwise or over the entire surface.
  6. We press the polystyrene foam sheet against the wall and additionally fix it with several dowels.
  7. We cover the fixed foam with a thick layer (25-30mm) of glue.
  8. We drown the reinforcing mesh in the glue.
  9. We plaster the entire surface of the wall.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic for drywall, wall paneling

  1. We create on the wall a crate of timber or profiles with a step equal to the size of the foam sheet.
  2. We fix the crate to the wall and ceiling.
  3. We place foam sheets in the resulting windows and fix them with liquid nails.
  4. We seal all the cracks with foam.
  5. We sheathe the crate on the outside with drywall or clapboard.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

This technology is very similar to the previous one - we insulate the walls with the help of crates. The only difference is that mineral wool on both sides must be carefully lined with waterproofing material.

Before you insulate the walls, it is also desirable to insulate the garage door. First you need to cut a gate in the gate - such a manipulation will help reduce heat loss when there is no need to leave the car. Then you can insulate the gate using the scheme used when insulating the walls:

We cover the gate from the inside with a layer of polyethylene;
We nail a wooden frame to them (it is advisable to treat the frame with drying oil or any other antiseptic);
We fill the frame with heat-insulating material;
We sew up the foam plastic with clapboard or plywood (something light).

To enhance the effect of thermal insulation inside the garage, just outside the gate, you can hang a polyethylene tape curtain.

The last step on the way to complete thermal insulation of the garage is the process of warming its roof.

If the roof of the garage is made of wooden boards, then the insulation can be attached directly to it using nails or dowels - "umbrellas".

If the ceiling is made of concrete floors, then it is advisable to use the wooden frame already mentioned above. It is desirable to fasten the frame to the roof with metal corners or self-tapping screws, and the foam to it with adhesive tape or glue. The finished structure must be sewn up with any kind of material - drywall, lining, plywood.

As you can see from the article, it is not so difficult to insulate the garage. The main thing is that the master has patience, a small supply of funds and the right tool.

A warm garage is a condition for the good "health" of your car. Sudden temperature changes can cause condensation, which breaks through the anti-corrosion protection of the metal and causes significant damage to the car. It is possible to achieve optimal performance only if you insulate the garage and think about heating it. Preservation of heat will create comfortable conditions for storing and repairing a car, and will also help save money, which is necessary for heating the car. Let's talk today about garages and the foam used to insulate them.

Optimal climatic conditions

With the approach of cold weather, any car owner recalls that in an unheated garage, the gates in winter are covered with thick layers of frost, which gradually turn into ice, and this brings a lot of inconvenience to the motorist. As with any building, standards have been developed for garages that determine the optimal conditions that are necessary for the careful storage of the car.

The optimum temperature in the shelter during the winter should be plus 5 degrees Celsius. The influx of fresh air through equipped ventilation in the garage for one car should reach 180 cubic meters per hour.

There may be an erroneous opinion that do-it-yourself garage insulation can be ignored. However, it is worth dispelling such misconceptions. The reason for such a low optimum temperature in winter lies in the following: if “greenhouse” conditions are created in the garage with a temperature that exceeds plus 18 degrees, the car will be covered with “sweat” when it enters the shelter from the street - a colder environment. And condensation causes rust.

It is worth remembering about ventilation. Due to inexperience, some motorists try to organize the insulation of the garage at the expense of ventilation holes, simply closing them up. This is fundamentally wrong. Ventilation is able to maintain the necessary microclimate inside the garage, helps to purify the air in the shelter from carbon monoxide and does not allow the car to become damp.

Preconditions for garage insulation

Thermal insulation of the garage allows the car to “survive” the cold season calmly. Before insulating the garage, it is worth remembering how heat is transferred in space:

  • Convection - the movement of warm air, with the help of which the garage is heated;
  • Conduction - a process in which heat is transferred from more heated areas of the shelter to less heated objects;
  • Thermal radiation is the process of radiating heat without moving air.

The most effective insulation today is a combination of classic heaters (prevents conduction and convection) and reflective ones (does not allow thermal radiation). However, such serious measures should be taken only when the garage is part of a residential building. And if the shelter is just a separate building, then the arrangement of such a powerful thermal barrier is not required.

Advantages of foam

Garage insulation is a “minute matter”, and besides, a penny. Most car owners choose to insulate the garage with polystyrene foam, sheathing the ceiling, walls, roof, gates and all enclosing structures with sheets. To get more efficiency, it is customary to use foam blocks, which serve as fixed formwork.

Why do developers choose foam plastic? This material is the most popular representative of the polymer group of heat-insulating substances. It is waterproof, its properties are similar to mineral wool and surpass it in some ways. Light weight and low cost make the process of insulating a garage with foam plastic simple for ordinary people without the additional involvement of specialists.

The use of an unprotected layer of foam plastic in a shelter for a car is considered imprudent due to fire properties. It is worth choosing brands of insulation that have flame retardant additives, which give the material damping properties. The water-repellent properties of polystyrene foam for garage insulation are of great importance, because high humidity is possible in this building.

The efficiency of this insulation compared to mineral wool is 50%. Styrofoam 25 density, which has a thickness of 5 centimeters, completely replaces 50 centimeters of brickwork. When insulating the garage with polystyrene foam, it is necessary to provide good fire protection and reliable ventilation, which can protect against corrosion.

Types of foam

Developers of advanced insulation have recently been trying to discredit the "authority" of traditional foam. But before you insulate the garage with polystyrene, plunging into the technological nuances, it is worthwhile to deal with the varieties of such material, because the name "foam" refers to a fairly wide range of heat insulators. The main difference between them lies in the category of polymer, which is their main component.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is the most popular type of foam used for interior and exterior insulation of buildings, including garages. It is produced on the basis of type B emulsion polystyrene, to which a blowing agent is added. Depending on the type of polymer (suspension or powder) and production methods, extruded, non-pressed and extruded polystyrene foam are distinguished.

Since expanded polystyrene belongs to the group of combustible materials, when insulating a garage, you should be primarily interested in the fire-resistant material PSB-S. Due to the presence of a flame retardant, it does not support combustion, does not smoke and does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere.

The list of its useful qualities is as follows: high water and vapor impermeability, low thermal conductivity, good sound insulation properties, ease of processing, affordable price, is not affected by fungus and does not serve as a breeding ground for insects, perfectly withstands any chemical attacks, except for petroleum products, alcohols and organic solvents.

It is worth resolving the most exciting question about the harmfulness of polystyrene foam. The main argument in favor of this is the residual styrene, a small proportion of which is retained in the material. This is a toxic substance that does not add health to a person. However, the entire responsibility lies with the good faith of the manufacturer.

Penoizol

Penoizol is a representative of a new generation of this group of building materials, it is often called liquid foam. It is produced on the basis of phosphoric acid, urea and VPS-G resin. Unlike factory briquettes of traditional foam plastic, it is customary to produce penoizol directly at the construction site.

The mixture is whipped with the help of special foam generators, forming a quick-hardening white foam. Penoizol fill cavities in multilayer walls and technological gaps in the building. If desired, for the insulation of the garage, you can make briquettes of any shape, filling the mass into the workpiece.

Insulating the walls of a car shelter with liquid foam allows you to achieve the highest level of heat resistance of the structure. The thermal conductivity of penoizol is the lowest compared to its "brothers". The warranty useful life of penoizol is about 40 years, however, according to preliminary calculations, it is able to withstand 100-120 years.

Penoizol does not support combustion, is environmentally friendly, does not lend itself to chemical and biological “attack”, does not leave waste when used (you can also use frozen crumbs to fill gaps). The main advantage of penoizol is its optimal vapor permeability, allowing you not to worry about the microclimate inside the garage.

Among the disadvantages of such a garage insulation with liquid foam, it is worth noting the cost of operating special equipment to complete the exact recipe and knead the working mass. For independent construction, this fact is a very serious burden on the budget. In addition, due to the mass production of "handicraft" penoizol, confidence in this material has been somewhat undermined.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is another type of foam that belongs to the category of "liquid". This type of foam, unlike penoizol, is endowed with excellent adhesion to any surfaces. It consists of 97% "air", which is closed in numerous pores and cavities. Polyurethane foam is produced by a chemical reaction of polyol and isocenate, during which closed "crystals" are formed, which are filled with gas.

Polyurethane foam is usually applied to the walls of the garage by spraying, the resulting crust hardens for 2 hours. This method is used mainly for internal insulation, because it leads to a decrease in the loss of usable garage space. This is a seamless thermal insulation that can work without failure for 70 years.

Polyurethane foam is a hard and resistant to mechanical damage material. It is a fireproof, environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit toxins and operates in a harsh temperature regime. The characteristics of polyurethane foam are close to penoizol, but this foam, due to its "stickiness", is actively used for internal and external insulation of the garage. The disadvantage of this material is that it is applied to the surface using special equipment.

Styrofoam insulation outside

For a garage, according to building codes, the ideal option is external wall insulation using foam. With this orientation in the winter, it is possible to avoid the contact of cold and warm, which provokes the appearance of moisture at the junction of the surface with the heat-insulating material. In order to remove this effect during the internal insulation of the walls of the garage with polystyrene foam, it is necessary to provide continuously operating forced ventilation in the room.

Work surface preparation

Insulation of brick walls with foam protects them from weathering of the seams and "aging". A concrete monolithic or prefabricated "box" will only benefit from such a cladding, because its standard thickness will not allow it to reach the minimum requirements for thermal insulation and sound insulation of the room.

Clean the walls first of dirt, dust and gunpowder. It is especially worth paying attention to their "weak" places: old plaster, which rests on one "honest" word. The base for the foam must be strong and clean, then the insulation of the garage during the entire period of use will not bring any problems. It is best to take a synthetic fluffy brush for cleaning. Repair deep cracks by patching them with plaster.

Fixing the foam board to the wall

For insulation of concrete and brick walls, it is worth using a 10-centimeter foam of the 25th density. To install the sheets, successively cover the surface with two layers of heat-insulating material, which has a thickness of 5 centimeters, with the obligatory dressing of the transverse and longitudinal seams of the masonry. But for technical premises, including garages, it is allowed to use a simplified method, managing with one layer of a heat insulator of 5 centimeters.

The main thing is to adhere to the technology for the correct installation of work items. It is customary to prime the surface of the walls to improve adhesion with glue. It is applied to the sheet using the “blot” method and pressed tightly to the surface. Sometimes masters apply the solution to the surface of the foam sheet with a notched trowel to eliminate the possibility of the slightest gaps between the surface and the plate.

During the installation of the foam, it is necessary to press the sheets tightly against each other and stack them in a checkerboard pattern. You need to cover the wall from the bottom up. Lay the first row on the starting bar, which is attached to the surface with dowels. Fasten each masonry element with at least three additional plastic dowels. Their installation is usually carried out after the final hardening of the glue.

Final works

The surface of the foam is recommended to be covered with a 3-5 mm layer of glue, which is intended for mounting the mesh. The composition of the adhesive differs from the solution, which serves to attach the sheets to the wall. Then you need to “drown” the mesh fabric into it, which should be completely covered with glue.

To plaster the surface of the wall, you can use simple or decorative facade plaster. After that, the surface must be additionally protected with facade paint.

Garage insulation from the inside

It is customary to use a similar method of garage insulation only as a last resort, because the internal insulation of the walls with the help of polystyrene foam is associated to some extent with the loss of usable area. Also, certain risks lie in the formation of moisture at the junction of the surface and the heat insulator. Polyfoam suffers little from this, only slightly reduces its own thermal insulation properties. But the design of the garage takes on all the "blow".

Forced ventilation insures against such an outcome of events. During the heating season in the garage, you should not arrange a "bath", but you need to adhere to the temperature regime recommended by us above. Insulation of the walls of the garage from the inside with foam plastic is usually performed in the same way as with the external cladding method described above. For work, it is customary to use self-extinguishing PSB-S-35, which does not support combustion.

Garage roof insulation

Always remember, if you leave some surface of the garage uninsulated, you will not be able to achieve the optimal temperature regime. Therefore, you should always think about how to insulate the ceiling and roof of the garage. In the presence of a rafter system and a continuous crate, it is necessary to fix the insulation under it, and lay the waterproofing on top. With a discharged crate, place the insulation between the rafters, and then use a waterproofing film.

Reliable insulation of the garage roof will be achieved if the insulation scheme is as follows: hydro-barrier - heat-insulating material - vapor barrier. Consider some of the nuances of using a waterproofing film. When using a subroofing film, which has a low vapor permeability, there should be no contact with the insulation. If it has a high level of vapor penetration, then its contact with the foam is not forbidden.

When insulating the ceiling in the garage with foam for bars, you do not need to drill holes, you can only use glue. If reinforced concrete slabs serve as the ceiling and roof, it is recommended to perform insulation on the outside of the roof as well. For such purposes, foam is suitable, on top of which it is necessary to make a plaster screed. It is good to lay a layer of waterproofing between the plaster and the foam, for which the roofing film and roofing material are suitable.

Garage door insulation

Garage metal gates of a classical design are also subject to insulation. It is customary to attach the crate to them from the inside, then with foam plastic you need to fill all the gaps that are in it. From the standpoint of energy efficiency, it is good to have a door in garage doors so as not to open the gate wide open unnecessarily.

However, for high-quality insulation, it is recommended to exclude the uncontrolled flow of cold air into the room through the gaps that are formed at the junction of the gate. Therefore, there should be no air gaps. Existing joints should be treated with self-adhesive tape, which is highly hydrophobic. You can take rubber seals to eliminate drafts.

After installing the crate and laying the foam, you need to start creating a finishing layer. To give the gate an aesthetic appearance, they can be lined with clapboard or some other material. Remember that with all the sealing you need to have good ventilation in the garage.

If excess moisture is not vented into the atmosphere, humidity can reach a critical level, hence an unhealthy microclimate is formed, corrosion occurs and unplanned car body repairs are foreshadowed. This is where air circulation is important. Manage airflow with floor vents and airflow with ceiling vents fitted with bird, rodent and insect screens.

Insulation of the garage with foam plastic allows you to protect your car from premature wear and corrosion and provides an opportunity, if necessary, to carry out a technical inspection or self-repair in the cold season.

Self-insulation of the garage from the inside makes it possible at an affordable cost to provide optimal conditions for year-round storage of the car.

In order for your car to feel comfortable in the garage in the winter, you need to create special conditions for it. In the cold season, the temperature in the caravan should be around + 5 °. It is not necessary to heat the garage to higher values, as there is a risk that the vehicle will be covered with "sweat" when frosty air enters from the street, which can cause rusting of various parts of the car.

In addition, care should be taken to ensure that there is sufficient fresh air flow into the house for the car. In one hour, the vehicle must be blown about 180 cubic meters of air. These two requirements must be taken into account when deciding to do the insulation of a metal or any other caravan with your own hands.

Currently, the thermal insulation of the garage can be made by different materials, which are characterized by their own thermal conductivity. This should also be taken into account. Next, we give the values ​​\u200b\u200b(in W / m * K) of the thermal conductivity of popular materials, with the help of which they perform insulation with their own hands:

  • 0.038 - mineral wool and expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
  • 0.043 - glass wool;
  • 0.171 - expanded clay;
  • 0.28 - foam concrete;
  • 0.52 - ceramic brick;
  • 0.64 - cinder block.

Garage insulation materials

The maximum thermal conductivity (0.9) is characterized by silicate brick.

The lower the thermal conductivity of the material, the higher the thermal insulation characteristics it has. This means that it is more reasonable to insulate the garage from the inside with polystyrene foam than with bricks or cinder blocks.

Thermal inertia is also of considerable importance. This concept means the rate of increase in temperature on the surface of a particular insulation. In simple words, we can say that the wall will heat up the longer, the higher the thermal inertia index of the material.

If you plan to insulate the building where your car is stored in winter with your own hands, experts advise adhering to the general rule. It says: from the inside, the walls protect from the cold so that the thermal inertia of the materials increases (from the outside to the inside), and the thermal conductivity decreases. It is enough to follow this principle, and then your garage will become a safe haven for a vehicle.

Motorists usually carry out warming with their own hands using mineral wool, polymer and fiberglass products. They are relatively easy to install, have good performance and are affordable, which makes it possible to make garage insulation cheap and with a guarantee of quality.

Mineral wool has been used for a very long time. It has proven its effectiveness in thermal insulation of motorhomes. But lately it has been used less and less. There are several reasons here:

  1. Relatively high material cost.
  2. Increased sensitivity of mineral wool to the influence of moisture (it is mandatory to make waterproofing, and this, as you understand, increases the cost of insulating the garage).

Mineral wool

Glass wool is cheaper. But this material has even more “cons”. It belongs to the group of flammable products, and is also afraid of high humidity. Therefore, there are few people who want to use glass wool.

The most popular insulating material today is considered to be foam. His shortcomings are almost completely absent. It does not allow moisture to pass through and is characterized by excellent thermal insulation performance, does not rot, and fungus never appears on its surface. For the price, the foam is more than "democratic". And any motorist can mount it with his own hands from inside the caravan.

The only disadvantage of polystyrene can be considered its flammability. But this problem has now faded into the background. Modern manufacturers produce polystyrene foam, which is processed at the factory with a fire retardant. This substance extinguishes the material immediately after it ignites.

Consider how to protect the walls of the garage from the cold with foam. It's easy to do this:

  1. We make a crate from wooden boards measuring 3x3 or 2x2 cm. They should be mounted around the perimeter of the wall, maintaining a step of at least 0.8 m.
  2. We glue the foam to the crate made (this will be the first layer of insulation on the walls).
  3. We mount another layer of heat insulator. Moreover, the second layer is fixed so that the connecting seams of the layers do not match (that is, in a checkerboard pattern). It has been proven that such a scheme provides maximum protection of the garage and car from cold air.

You have insulated the walls of the motorhome from the inside, spending a minimum of time and money. You can also decorate them with inexpensive material - ordinary clapboard or plywood sheets.

Decorating garage walls with clapboard

Having protected the walls from cold air, we can proceed to the thermal insulation of the garage door. Welded structures are usually mounted on a metal or any other motorhome. Such gates are made of thin steel (maximum 3 mm), which cannot guarantee a decent level of building insulation.

It is not difficult to insulate the entrance to the garage with your own hands. The procedure is performed in much the same way as wall insulation - using foam. It must be glued with the highest quality and tightness - an air gap cannot be allowed to appear (use the same adhesive that you used when insulating the walls of the garage).

Now we need to make a frame of wood (we will later mount the garage sheathing on it). Such a skeleton is made from wooden bars 6x6 cm. Be sure to use the building level when doing this work. We will install boards of small thickness on the frame and close the gate with this design. They can be painted with the usual "water emulsion" or come up with another decoration option.

If you were able to insulate the gates and walls with your own hands, you should not have any difficulties with the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside. It is important to know a few things here.

The roof and ceiling in the garage are the same structure. If your caravan is made of foam blocks or bricks, its roof is usually made of a floor slab (reinforced concrete). In a metal garage, the ceiling is made in the form of a "skeleton" of steel corners, to which iron sheets are attached. But in frame houses for cars, the ceiling is made on timber beams.

Caravan ceiling on wood beams

There are two ways to insulate all these types of ceiling structures:

  1. Create a false ceiling and fill the space between it and the base roof with thermal insulation material.
  2. Attach the insulation directly to the ceiling using the method recommended for the particular insulating material.

If you want to use foam, glue it with liquid nails to the roof of a metal or wooden garage, mount the rails and cover the thermal insulation layer with any lightweight material. Plywood is best suited for these purposes. It is attached to the guides.

When it is required to insulate the ceiling from floor slabs with your own hands, the skeleton is mounted on metal corners. Adhesives will not help here. Please note - you will need to fix the corners on the screws, which are previously placed in plastic dowels.

Most often, floors in car storage boxes are made of concrete. They are thermally insulated before pouring the concrete mix. The order of work is as follows:

  1. Tamp down the earth cover.
  2. Make a pillow of sand (about 10 cm thick is sufficient) and ram it.
  3. Pour a 10-centimeter layer of concrete screed and dry it.
  4. Pour river fine sand or expanded clay mixed with cement and water onto the screed. Expanded clay or sand just perform the function of a warming material.
  5. Dry the heat-insulating layer made for a week, and then pour the finishing concrete floor.

Thermal insulation of floors before pouring concrete mix

It only remains for us to add that the concrete flooring with insulation can be used one month after all the described procedures have been completed. That's when it becomes really strong.

Preservation of heat is a prerequisite for any room that will be operated in the winter season. This is especially true for garage buildings, which are open to "all winds" and, for the most part, are not suitable for installing central heating. The adaptation of the garage to winter conditions is carried out by means of internal or external wall insulation, which allows you to keep the positive temperature indoors even in severe frosts.

Where to insulate: inside or outside?

To keep the heat inside the garage, it is necessary to create a screen of insulating material that will not let the cold in from the outside and keep the internal heat. The heat-insulating layer can be located both outside the building and inside - the principle of heat preservation is the same in both cases, however, each of the options has its own nuances that should be taken into account. External thermal insulation is more effective, as it does not allow the cold to reach the walls and does not affect the inside of the garage. But at the same time, this method of insulation is more expensive and time-consuming - the creation of a masking facade that will hide the insulation will be expensive.

Internal insulation reduces the internal area of ​​​​the garage by the thickness of the insulation material, but at the same time it is several times cheaper and does not require special skills for self-assembly. If your main goal is to directly prepare the garage for cold weather and you do not plan large-scale construction work, then this method of insulation will be the best solution.

Material selection

Almost any material with a porous or fibrous structure can be used as a heater - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, organic insulation, etc. In general, for the insulation of the garage, it is appropriate to use any of the above items, if you are guided by the principle "it will not get worse." However, if you have a choice, then it is better to familiarize yourself with all the advantages and disadvantages of various types of insulation in order to choose the most suitable name for a particular situation.

Polyfoam - universal insulation for the garage

  • Styrofoam. Foam boards are characterized by low cost - this is the cheapest insulation material on the domestic market. Of the advantages of this material, an insignificant mass, moisture resistance and ease of processing stand out. The obvious disadvantages include a high fire hazard and a fragile structure.
  • Styrofoam. It has all the technical advantages of polystyrene, but at the same time it is less combustible and more durable material. The price of the insulation is slightly higher than the foam analogue, but it does not go beyond the permissible limits.
  • Mineral, basalt wool. A more perfect analogue of glass wool popular in the Soviet Union. Absolutely non-flammable material. The critical disadvantage of mineral wool is the fibrous structure, which absorbs water like a sponge - at high humidity, the insulation gets wet, losing its thermal insulation properties and contributing to the development of the fungus.
  • Organic heater. An analogue of mineral wool on an organic basis (linen, cotton, etc.) is an environmentally friendly material of natural origin. Unlike mineral wool, organic insulation is combustible.

Mineral wool is popular, but not reliable in damp

The most suitable material for garage insulation, regardless of the material from which it is made, is a foam or polystyrene foam insulation, due to ease of installation, moisture resistance and reasonable price. Fibrous insulation is less preferred because of its structure, since it is far from always possible to maintain an optimal level of humidity in an unheated room. However, this does not mean that the use of cotton materials is categorically not recommended - their use is also appropriate, although not so preferable.

Important! If there is a stove, heater or other sources of heat in the garage, then the area of ​​\u200b\u200btheir location must be insulated with mineral wool to prevent fire and the release of toxins due to excessive heat.

Material calculation

The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the quadrature of the insulated area - the length of the wall is multiplied by its height. Thus, you will get the number of square meters that need to be insulated. The thickness of the insulation is directly proportional to its thermal insulation data.

Since the thermal insulation layer needs an outer shell, in addition to the insulation, it is also necessary to purchase consumables for assembling and sheathing the frame. To form the frame, it is better to use metal profiles that are not afraid of moisture and are quite easy to install. The calculation of the footage of the supporting profile is carried out taking into account the fact that the distance between the supporting elements of the frame should not exceed 50-60 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the presence of intermediate fasteners. The footage of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the room multiplied by 2.

For sheathing the frame, it is best to use moisture-resistant drywall, which includes moisture-repellent impregnation and antifungal additives - an inexpensive, fire-resistant and easy-to-process material. The calculation of the required number of sheets is carried out in the same way as in the case of insulation material.

Important! Focusing on the data obtained, one should be aware of possible unforeseen situations and purchase material with a small margin, which on average is about 10-15% of the initial amount.

Insulation of the walls in the garage from the inside

Frame installation

Installation of the frame is necessary for the subsequent installation of decorative trim, which will hide the insulation from prying eyes. During the installation process, you will need the following tools:

  • Hammer drill;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Scissors for metal;
  • Level;

Ready frame for drywall

All fasteners in the wall are pre-drilled with a perforator drill, then dowel-screws are inserted into the holes, which are screwed with a screwdriver. The metal profile is easily cut with scissors for metal, in almost any position. The frame in the garage is assembled as follows:

  • First of all, guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor, into which the carrier profile will be inserted. They should be parallel to each other - first, the guide is mounted on the ceiling, and then, using a level or plumb line, the guide on the floor is adjusted. The indentation from the wall should allow the insulation to be placed so that it does not “push” the skin. A sealing tape must be placed between the base and the guide, which will absorb small irregularities and create a tighter connection.

Important! When fastening the profile, it is necessary to take into account the differences in the surface - it should not "lead" from excessive bending. Deep drops, especially if a dowel is clogged in them, must be smoothed out with stands, and the protruding parts must be removed.

  • Before installing the supporting profiles, supporting brackets-suspensions are mounted on the wall, which stiffen the entire structure. The bracket is a metal plate with perforated edges - the middle is mounted to the wall, and the edges are bent to form a "P" shaped figure into which the supporting profile will be inserted. Suspensions are located along a strictly vertical line, which is measured by means of a plumb line or level. The step between the vertical lines can be 60, 40 or 30 cm - the larger the step, the weaker the structure.

Important! If necessary, you can choose the step between the guides arbitrarily, within the mentioned values, however, in this case, you will have to constantly adjust the drywall sheets, since their standard width is 140 cm.

  • On suspensions, carrier profiles are inserted into the guides. Fixing in guides and suspensions is carried out by means of a screwdriver and small screws for metal. The common plane is adjusted by means of a rule, or along a fishing line stretched between the extreme profiles.
  • Between the carriers, with a similar pitch, transverse frame elements are installed, which are made of a profile - they are necessary to strengthen the structure. As a fixing connection, you can use single-level “crab” connectors or simply cut off the sides of the profile, forming a tongue that is attached directly to the surface of the supporting profile.

Attaching the profile to the hanger

Waterproofing

Fibrous insulation is very sensitive to moisture - in this case, waterproofing is indispensable. To avoid getting the cotton wool wet, it is necessary to create an airtight, waterproof layer between the wall and the insulation. For this purpose, a membrane film or any other flexible waterproof material is used. After the frame is fully assembled, it is covered with waterproofing material. The film should not be stretched, it should lie freely, fastening to the profile is carried out by means of brackets. The main thing is to create an airtight barrier for condensate - the overlap between the edges of the strips should be at least 10 cm. The junction is glued with adhesive tape.

Thinking about the need for waterproofing, one should not forget that its main function is to protect the insulation from a small amount of moisture that can seep from the outside. It is insurance against unforeseen situations, and not a panacea - if there is increased humidity in the garage from the side of the walls, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work on external waterproofing. Internal waterproofing in this case will be a temporary and short-lived solution to the problem.

Insulation installation

Wall insulation with foam

Before proceeding with the insulation, the walls must be cleaned of strongly protruding elements: fittings, metal fasteners, etc. If there are through cracks in the wall, then they must be covered with concrete or plaster mortar (sand 1: 2 cement based on the mass of the components) to remove drafts.

The installation process of the insulation largely depends on the structure of the material - polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam with a block form factor can be mounted with glue, while mineral wool is fixed only with the help of self-tapping dowels. Wall insulation with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out in the following order:

  • The walls are cleaned of dust and primed with a special composition to improve adhesion (degree of "stickiness"). After the primer is completely dry, you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation.
  • The insulation is mounted from the bottom up, the sheets must be cut exactly under the opening between the supporting profiles. The adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the insulation using a calibration spatula, after which the block is pressed against the wall. Since the material is very light, there is no need to additionally press or fix the block until the adhesive is completely cured.
  • After the glue has set, the blocks can be additionally fixed with self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps or bolts if the garage is assembled from sheet iron.

Installation of mineral wool or its varieties is carried out by means of self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps, which fix the block in five places - in the corners and in the center. The warming process is carried out as follows:

  • Before installation, in the lower part of the wall, it is necessary to install a profile or rail so that the wool does not touch the floor and does not absorb moisture.
  • The insulation is cut so that the width of the strips exceeds the width of the opening between the supporting profiles by 1–2 cm.
  • The mats are driven into the openings between the profiles, there should not be any gaps or voids. The insulation is fixed with dowel-screws with plastic caps or bolts, if the garage is made of sheet iron.

In this case, a design is meant in which the profile is pressed tightly or very close to the wall. If the distance between the profile and the wall is large enough, then a solid heat-insulating coating is formed, in which recesses are cut out for fastening the frame.

Sheathing the finished frame with drywall

Drywall sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The sheets must be positioned so that the edge falls exactly in the middle of the carrier profile.. The distance between the screws should not exceed 20 cm, while the hats must be sunk into the surface by about 1 mm. First of all, whole sheets are mounted, then inserts. Drywall cutting is carried out using a clerical knife - the sheet is deeply cut on one side, and then simply breaks in the opposite direction from the cut.

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Do-it-yourself gate insulation

Styrofoam door insulation

The iron gates of the garage let in not only your car, but also the cold outside - the metal instantly freezes through and does not protect against frost. To insulate the gate from the inside, it is necessary to assemble a frame for sheathing. It is most convenient to use wood as a material - a frame is assembled from a bar, reinforced with intermediate inserts. The beam is attached to the gate by means of metal screws.

Wooden frame assembly

Insulation sheets should preferably be glued to the door surface to avoid condensation on the metal surface. In connection with this circumstance, the use of foam or expanded polystyrene is more preferable. After installing the insulation, the frame is sheathed with plywood, tin, etc. In the event that the profile of the gate implies the presence of an internal cavity sufficient for installing a heater, then you can do without installing a frame. Since the sheet insulation has a low weight, if desired, you can simply glue the sheets to the gate without assembling the frame and sheathing. In this case, you will have to be more careful when operating the gate, since unprotected thermal insulation will be easily damaged by careless action.

ceiling queue

Laying insulation on the ceiling of the garage

An uninsulated ceiling is the biggest gap in the thermal insulation of a room. Unlike walls, it is more expedient to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic - the insulation will be more effective and there is no need to form a decorative sheathing that “eats up” usable space and finances. As a heater, it is better to use polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, although mineral wool in this case will also be quite appropriate.

The external insulation of the garage is not particularly difficult - waterproofing is laid on the surface of the attic and the insulation sheets are simply laid without cracks and voids. The thickness of the insulation material must be at least 10 cm. In this case, it is important to create a dense heat-insulating layer, without the so-called cold bridges - mounting foam is used to fill joints or hard-to-reach places.

Floor

Expanded clay for floor insulation in the garage

If the floor is formed from monolithic concrete, it also intensively "sucks" heat from the room. The only rational solution, in this case, is to fill in the heat-insulating material (expanded clay) and form a new concrete screed. Alternative insulation methods are inappropriate in this case, since the coating must support the weight of the car. Ideally, the thermal insulation of the floor should be carried out at the time of the construction of the building, since in any other case it will either have to break the old coating or form thermal insulation on top of it, which implies raising the floor by 15 - 20 cm.

If the garage has already been built, then you will have to proceed from the already existing circumstances - the best option would be to completely break the concrete screed in order to free up enough space for the insulation backfill. However, if the height of the room allows you to raise the floor by 15 cm or more, then you can do without dismantling the old coating. Expanded clay, if possible, it is better to acquire heterogeneous (fine and medium) or medium fractions in order to reduce the likelihood of voids. To form a screed, you will need cement and sand. The order of work is as follows:

  • A site is being prepared for filling the insulation. The insulation layer should be at least 10 cm thick, optimally about 20-30 cm. You should also take into account the layer of concrete screed, which is formed at least 5 cm thick. The site should be as flat as possible so that the backfill is uniform.
  • A layer of waterproofing is laid on the ground or the old coating so that the expanded clay granules do not absorb moisture. For this purpose, you can use various materials: from roofing material to a dense plastic film.
  • Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing in an even layer. To evenly distribute expanded clay, the surface is leveled with a rule or a long level.
  • To strengthen the insulation granules, a cement mortar is used - the cement is mixed with water to a homogeneous substance, which should not be too liquid or thick. The resulting mixture is poured over the top layer of expanded clay so that the cement penetrates into the voids between the granules.
  • After the cement mixture is completely dry, the concrete screed is poured. The concrete mortar consists of cement and sand, in a ratio of 60/40 based on the mass of the components. In the manufacture of concrete mortar, it is easiest to focus on the color of the mixture, which should have a clear cement shade. A rule is used to level the flooded area. The surface of the screed is smoothed with a spatula or small.

Important! In this case, Portland cement M400 is meant - the lower the grade, the more cement will be required and vice versa. But at the same time, one should not forget that the principle “the more the better” is inappropriate in this case, since an excess of cement will disrupt the structure of the screed.

Alignment of expanded clay by the rule

Since the area of ​​​​the garage is basically not large, it is quite possible to form a screed "by eye". But if you want to get a perfectly flat surface, then you need to install beacons. As beacons, you can use a profile, pipes and any other material with a smooth edge. Beacons are set by means of a level, thus limiting marks are created that indicate the level of a perfectly flat plane.

Installing beacons is quite simple - along the edges of the room, by means of a hydraulic level, extreme profiles are installed, then a fishing line is pulled between them, which determines the level of intermediate elements. The main thing is to firmly fix the beacons so that no displacement occurs during pouring. Concrete mortar with a small addition of alabaster is best suited for this purpose. Lighthouses need to be fixed pointwise, and not along the entire length.

Important! The addition of alabaster to the concrete mortar significantly reduces the period of its solidification - the count can go up to tens of seconds. You should not dilute too much, otherwise you will not physically have time to work it out.

Cellar

If there is a cellar in the garage, then its insulation is also a prerequisite for creating good thermal insulation of the room. Installation of insulation in this case is carried out in the same way as in the case of the main room, with the difference that the cellar ceiling is insulated from the inside.

Ceiling insulation procedure:


The floor in the cellar is insulated in accordance with the same recommendations as for floor insulation in the garage. After the completion of work in the cellar, the level of humidity will rise greatly, so it is necessary to consider a high-quality ventilation system.

Garage insulation allows you to keep the positive temperature in the room without central heating. The only thing to remember is that you should not make the room completely airtight in order to prevent an increase in humidity. The garage must have ventilation to remove moisture from melted snow, rain and other things that the car will bring with it during bad weather.