A big handbook for carpenters: all types of do-it-yourself joinery and carpentry

Introduction

In a house, apartment or country house, there is always something for a man to do: drive in a nail, fix a stool, nail a hanger or shelf to the wall. Therefore, the ability to own carpentry tools is always necessary. And if you want to do something more significant with your own hands, then you can move from minor repairs to more labor-intensive ones: for example, make a built-in table and bench on a small balcony, build a wooden staircase in the country house or lay out the floor with boards, make a crib or bedside table for tools. As you acquire the necessary skills, you will be able to make a whole furniture set or even build a house from a log house, make wooden windows, doors and even a roof on your own. In this case, you can save significant money on wages and use them to buy expensive, but very aesthetic, environmentally friendly and high-quality material.

Recently, natural and environmentally friendly materials have become increasingly popular. First of all, it's a tree. Floors, windows, doors and furniture made of wood not only look very beautiful and harmonious, but are also not capable of harming health, especially if non-toxic substances were also used to process and finish them. Some manufacturers of modern furniture use natural and safe materials for human health in their production. But not everyone can afford such luxury furniture for several thousand dollars. If you do the work yourself, then it is quite possible to purchase all the desired material, saving on its processing, assembly of the structure, finishing and, which is also important, on the delivery of the finished product. Of course, such work will take a lot of time and effort, but the result will invariably please, especially with a conscientious attitude to business and high-quality performance of all work.

Home carpenter's tools

For joinery and carpentry work, you will definitely need a set of the simplest tools: an ax, a hammer, a nail puller, a chisel, a joint knife, pliers, etc. Over time and as needed, this minimum set can be replenished with specific tools that will be useful for more serious works. In the arsenal of a professional joiner-carpenter, there should be chisels of various profiles, a hacksaw for wood and metal, a jigsaw, an electric drill with a set of drills and a grinding disc for surface treatment, various types of sandpaper, files and needle files with different frequency notches for surface treatment of parts. It is necessary to become familiar with some of these tools in order to know what kind of work they are intended for.

Hand carpentry tool

A hand tool is used with its own power. These are an ax, a hammer, a mallet, a planer, a hacksaw, a chisel, a chisel, a knife, pincers, a doboynik and clamps.

Some of these tools can be replaced with the same analogs that work under the influence of current, which greatly facilitates the process of any work. In addition, there are auxiliary tools: screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, rasps, files, etc.

This is a very important tool for any work, including carpentry and joinery. The hammer consists of a wooden handle and a striker made of high quality steel.

There are ordinary, carpentry hammers and mallets. For carpentry, it is desirable to have 2-3 hammers of various weights (200, 400 and 600 g) in the kit. To begin with, you can purchase only one medium-weight hammer.

A conventional hammer has a round or oval flat striking surface, and on the other side of the striker has a pointed end, which is used to align the nails when driving.

A mallet is a wooden mallet, which is mainly used for grinding wooden masses in the process of gluing, when working with a chisel, etc.

With an ordinary hammer, you can break the wooden surface of the workpiece being processed or break the wooden handle of the chisel, and the blows of the mallet are softer, so they cannot lead to damage to the product. Mallets are flat and round (barrel-shaped), and the mallet handle has a rectangular shape with rounded sharp edges. They are made from wear-resistant wood of curly birch, hornbeam and elm.

Rice. 1. Hammer mallet

A round mallet is usually 18 cm high, 12 cm in diameter, 8 cm in diameter of the working ends (butts), and the length of the handle is 39 cm. You can make your own mallets using these parameters or less (Fig. 1).

Master's advice

When pulling a nail out of wood with a carpenter's hammer, in order not to crush the surface of an object or product, you need to put a piece of thin board or plywood at least 3 mm thick under the hammer, or use a metal plate.

Rice. 2. Carpenter's hammer

The carpenter's hammer has one side of the striker, like a conventional hammer, and the other end is divided into two parts like a dovetail. This forked end is used for pulling nails, etc. Thus, in the process of work, one tool can be dispensed with, using it both for driving nails and for pulling them out (Fig. 2).

This tool is simply indispensable in carpentry. With its help, splitting, cutting, hewing of wood is performed, and the reverse side of the ax handle is used to deliver stronger blows than a hammer can do. (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Ax

The ax consists of a wooden handle and an ax made of steel. Depending on the angle of the ax handle relative to the handle, there are several types of this tool.

In a straight ax, the ax handle is located at an angle of 90 ° relative to the handle. It is used for splitting wood. In an acute-angled ax, the angle of attachment of the ax handle to the handle is 80–85 °. This ax is used for the primary processing of wood: removal of bark, protruding knots on the trunk, etc. The ax handle of an obtuse-angled ax is located at an angle of 100 ° relative to the handle. It is suitable for more rough work with whole tree trunks.

There are axes in which the blade is sharpened on both sides, and there are sharpened only on one side. The first option is most often used, since it can be used both for cutting and hewing wood. And the second type of ax is suitable only for hewing.

With the help of this tool, various parts of wood and metal are sawn and cut. (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Hacksaw

Hacksaws differ depending on the thickness of the saw blade and the setting of the teeth.

Each type is designed to perform a specific job, as it gives a different quality of the sawn surface. For carpentry, a hacksaw with a “mouse” tooth is usually used - its teeth are very small and often planted. For carpentry, a hacksaw with a rarer and larger tooth is used.

For example, a hacksaw with a wide blade, teeth sharpened at an angle of 45 °, and a set of 0.5 mm from the central axis is used for sawing wood across the grain. A narrow hacksaw with the same setting and method of sharpening teeth as a wide one is used for sawing thin boards and chipboard, for cutting curved parts, etc.

There is a hacksaw with a butt, which is used for sawing out small parts, when fitting joints, etc.

The blade of this hacksaw is very thin, so it is reinforced with a plank along the entire length. Without such a device, it cannot hold the direction of the cut and breaks.

Depending on the types of work performed, hacksaws with both a wide and narrow blade, as well as with large or small teeth, may be required.

A planer is also essential when working with wood. With its help, an excess layer of wood is removed and the surface of the part is leveled. (Fig. 5). Planers come with a metal or wooden body, as well as with one or two blades.

Rice. 5. Planer

A planer with a metal body is mainly used for processing hardwoods and chipboard, with a wooden body for basic work. The latter is much lighter than metal and does not require much tension in the muscles of the hands.

Data on wood and auxiliary materials, modern tools, fixtures, mechanisms and woodworking machines are given, ways of joining wooden elements, data on manual and machine processing of wood in the manufacture of wooden products and structures are presented. The production of joinery and carpentry in construction, modern organization of labor and workplace based on best practices are described. For workers of construction and installation organizations.

Glues and mastics.
Glutinous (collagen) adhesives - mezdrovy (GOST 3252-80) and bone. Mezdrovy glue has the following brands: KME (extra), KMV (highest grade), KM-1, KM-2 and KM-3 (the numbers indicate the grade). Mezdrovy and bone glues are produced in tiles, crushed, granulated, scaly and galerty (glue jelly). Prepare the glue as follows. Dry glue is placed in an oilcloth and poured with water at room temperature, preferably boiled (Figure 1.6, Table 1.22). The water should completely cover the glue. In this state, the glue is kept for 6 ... 12 hours until it swells completely. Then the glue is boiled, stirring occasionally, and it goes into solution. The working temperature of the mezdrovy glue solution is 50 ... 70 ° C, bone - 40 ... 60 ° C. The period of use of the adhesive at operating temperature is no more than 8 hours.

casein adhesives. The main part is the milk protein-casein (fat-free cottage cheese). Store casein glue powder in a dry place at a temperature not exceeding 30 °C. At a temperature of 40 ° C, casein loses its adhesive properties. Shelf life of dry glue is 5 months.
To prepare the glue, casein powder is gradually poured into water at room temperature (16 ... 20 ° C), constantly stirring, in a ratio by weight of 1:1.7 to 1:2.3 (depending on the desired viscosity) and stirred periodically for an hour until a creamy mass is obtained. The viability of casein adhesives is 4 ... 6 hours. Casein glue is used in the manufacture of blockboards and shields, window and door blocks.

Casein-cement glue (CC). Its composition: casein glue powder - 1000 g, Portland cement brand 400-750 g, water at room temperature - 2200 ... 2500 g. Portland cement is added to the casein glue solution and mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained. The pot life of this adhesive is 4...6 hours. Casein-cement adhesive is used in the manufacture of beams, purlins, trusses, and floors from superhard fiberboards. Casein-cement adhesive is moderately water-resistant, therefore, when used in wooden building structures, it is protected from moisture by waterproof paint or varnish.

Free download e-book in a convenient format, watch and read:
Download the book Handbook of a carpenter-joiner, Reshetnyak O.N., 1995 - fileskachat.com, fast and free download.

• Names of color and its shades, explanatory dictionary-reference book, more than 2000 terms with English equivalents, Stefanov S.I., 2015
• Brief dictionary-reference book on defectology, Sokolova S.M., Sokolova I.O., 2012
• Small oracle Madame Lenormand, encyclopedia of the meanings of cards and pair combinations, Samoshina A., 2019

The following tutorials and books.

Literature on carpentry

1. Akishenkov S. I. Protection of lumber from cracking during drying. M., 1978. 33 p.

2. Amalitsky V.V., Lyubchenko V.I. The Young Woodworker's Handbook. M., 1974.

3. Bartashevich A.A., Antonov V.P. Technology of furniture production and woodcarving.
288 pages, 2001; Publisher: Vysshaya Shkola

4. M. A. Berline, Moisture measurement, 2nd ed., Revised. and additional M., 1973. 400 p.

5. V. A. Biryukov, Chamber drying of wood in an electric field of high frequency. M.-L., 1950. 102 p.

6. Bobikov P.D., Lyutershtein M.B. Plywood work. M., 1974

7. Bobikov P.D. Design of joinery and furniture products. M., 1980.173 p.

8. Bobikov P.L. Production of artistic furniture. M., 1982.271 p.

9. Buglay B.M. Wood finishing technology. M., 1973.

10. Bulanin. V.D. Mosaic works on wood. 144 pages, 2001; Publisher: Olma-Press; Series: School of Excellence

11. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N. House carving. M.1994.352 p.

12. Bukhtiyarov V.P. Equipment for finishing wood products. M., 1971.

13. Vakin A. T. Storage of round timber. M., 1964. 428 p.

14. Weber G.B. Modern furniture with their own hands; Translated from German-M., 1980.78 p.

15. Gashkova A. K. Influence of humidity on the quality of joinery and building products. M., 1974. 80 p.

16. Ginzburg AS Osnovy teorii i tekhniki DRYING FOOD PRODUCTS. M., 1973. 528 p.7.

17. Girsh M. Drying technique. Per. with him. M., 1937. 628 p.

18. Glikin M.S. Decorative woodwork on machines. M.1999.280 s

19. Glukhikh V. H. Prevention of warping of lumber during kiln drying. M., 1975. 35 p.

20. Golenishchev A.N., Dobrynin S.V., Andreeva A.A. Drying and protective treatment of wood. - M .: Lesn. Industry, 1984.- 80 p.

21. Gorshin S. N. Atmospheric drying of lumber. M., 1971. 295 p.

22. Grigoriev M.A. Industrial training for carpenters. M., 1979.223 p.

23. Grigoriev M.A. Material science for joiners and carpenters. M., 1981.169 p.

24. Grigoriev M.A. Industrial training of machine operators in woodworking. M., 1982.152 p.

25. Denezhny P.M., Stiskin P.M., Thor I.E. Turning business. M., 1979.

26. Dmitrievskaya T.S. Finishing furniture with nitro-lacquers. L. 1951

27. Zabozlaev B.S. Conditions for safe work in the finishing shops of woodworking enterprises. M., 1967.

28. Directory of hand tools for construction. M., 1989.

29. Heinrich Gatsura. Furniture styles. 164 pages, 2001; Publisher: Moscow City Organization of the Union of Writers of Russia.

30. Kondratiev G. M. Regular thermal regime. M., 1954. 408 p.

31. Konovalenko A.M. Restoration of furniture. St. Petersburg. 1998. 112 p.

32. Korotkov V.I. Woodworking machinery. M., 1986.

33. Krasnikov VV Conductive drying. M., 1973. 288 p.

34. Kreydlin L.N. Joinery, carpentry and parquet work. M., 1997.320 p.

35. Kreidlin L.N. Carpentry work. M., 1982.127 p.

36. Kreydlin L.N. Carpentry. M., 1985.174 p.

37. Krechetov I.V. Drying wood. 3rd ed. revised M.: Lesn. prom-st, 1980.-432 p.

38. Krechetov I. V. Drying wood with flue gases. M., 1961. 270 p.

39. Krechetov I. V. Wood drying. M., 1972. 440 p.

40. Krechetov I. V. Wood drying. M.-L., 1949. 528 p.

41. Krechetov I. V. Start-up and operation of a continuous gas drying plant of the Krechetov system. TsNIITEIlesprom. M., 1965. 24 p.

42. Kraut F. and Meyer Fr. Carpentry and joinery for interior decoration of buildings. Floors, doors, windows, wall cladding and decoration, ceilings, stairs. 292 pp., 1901; Publisher: Edition G.V. Holsten.

43. Krisher O. Scientific foundations of drying technology. M., 1961. 540 p.

44. Kuksov V.A. Joinery. M., 1960.

45. Kulebakin G.I. Joinery. M., 1987.143.

46. ​​Kulikov IV Technology for the manufacture and repair of furniture by order of the population. M., 1974. 424 p.

47. Laschaver M.S., Rebrin S.P. Finishing wood fiber boards with synthetic materials. M., 1970.

48. Lebedev P. D. Calculation and design of drying installations. M.-L., 1963. 320 p.

49. Logacheva. L.A. Fundamentals of wood carving. 136 pages, 2001; Publisher: Folk art

50. Lykov A.V. drying theory. M., "Energy", 1968 - 472 p.

51. Lykov A. V. Heat and mass transfer (reference book). M., 1972. 560 p.

52. Lyubchenko V.I., Druzhkov G.F. Reference book of a young machine operator of a sawmill and woodworking enterprise. M., 1985.

53. Matveeva T.V. Mosaic and woodcarving. M., 1981.80 p.

54. Mikhailichenko A.L., Sadovnichy F.P. Wood science and forest commodity science. M., 19883.205 p.

55. Mikhailov Yu, M. Drying with superheated steam. M., 1967. 198 p.

56. Muzalevsky V. I. Measurement of wood moisture content. M., 1976. 120 p.

57. Nagorskaya I.A. Grinding and polishing equipment for finishing shops. VNIPIEI Lesprom, 1971.

58. Nefedov V.I. How to make furniture yourself. M., 1986.192 p.

59. Nikitin L.I. Safety precautions at woodworking enterprises. M., 1982.240 p.

60. Standards for chamber drying of lumber. M.-L., 1957. 39 p.

61. Wood processing. Traditional technique. 432 pages, 1999; Publishers: AST, Geleos

62. Orlova Yu.D. Finishing of wood products. M., 1968.

63. Perelygin L. M. Wood science. M., 1969. 318 p.

64. Peych H. H., Tsarev B. S. Wood drying. M., 1975. 224 p.

65. Pesotsky A. N., Yasinsky V. S. Design of sawmill and woodworking industries. M., 1976. 375 p.

66. Petrov A.K. Technology of woodworking industries. M., 1974.271 p.

67. Popov K.N. , Caddo M.B. Building materials and products. 368 pages, 2001; Publisher: Vysshaya Shkola

68. Practical advice. Carpentry work. 208 pp., 2000; Publishers: AST, Harvest; Series: My profession

69. Prozorovsky N.I. Technology of finishing joinery. M., 1981.288 p.

70. Pronin. L.A. Carving and mosaic on wood. 272 pages, 2001; Publisher: U-Factoria; Series: DIY

71. Prudnikov P.G., Goldberg E.E., Kordonskaya B.K. Handbook of furniture finishing. Kiev: Technika, 1982

72. Pylnikov H. A. Drying wood. Kyiv, 1968. 120 p.

73. Rivkin S. A., Alexandrov A. A. Thermodynamic properties of water and water vapor. M., 1975. 79 p.

74. Rozov V.N., Savchenko V.F. Facing joinery and furniture parts and products. M., 1979.175 p.

75. Guidelines for kiln-drying lumber. Arkhangelsk, 1977. 152 p.

76. Savchenko. V.F. Materials for facing and finishing joinery and furniture products. 128 pages, 1999; Publisher: Academy (Moscow); Series: Profession

77. Safronenko V.M. Decor and protection of wood. 32 pages, 2001; Publisher: Halton; Series: Master's Tips

In a house, apartment or country house, there is always something for a man to do: drive in a nail, fix a stool, nail a hanger or shelf to the wall. Therefore, the ability to own carpentry tools is always necessary. And if you want to do something more significant with your own hands, then you can move from minor repairs to more labor-intensive ones: for example, make a built-in table and bench on a small balcony, build a wooden staircase in the country house or lay out the floor with boards, make a crib or bedside table for tools. As you acquire the necessary skills, you will be able to make a whole furniture set or even build a house from a log house, make wooden windows, doors and even a roof on your own. In this case, you can save significant money on wages and use them to buy expensive, but very aesthetic, environmentally friendly and high-quality material.

Recently, natural and environmentally friendly materials have become increasingly popular. First of all, it's a tree. Floors, windows, doors and furniture made of wood not only look very beautiful and harmonious, but are also not capable of harming health, especially if non-toxic substances were also used to process and finish them. Some manufacturers of modern furniture use natural and safe materials for human health in their production. But not everyone can afford such luxury furniture for several thousand dollars. If you do the work yourself, then it is quite possible to purchase all the desired material, saving on its processing, assembly of the structure, finishing and, which is also important, on the delivery of the finished product. Of course, such work will take a lot of time and effort, but the result will invariably please, especially with a conscientious attitude to business and high-quality performance of all work.

Chapter 1
Home carpenter's tools

For joinery and carpentry work, you will definitely need a set of the simplest tools: an ax, a hammer, a nail puller, a chisel, a joint knife, pliers, etc. Over time and as needed, this minimum set can be replenished with specific tools that will be useful for more serious works. In the arsenal of a professional joiner-carpenter, there should be chisels of various profiles, a hacksaw for wood and metal, a jigsaw, an electric drill with a set of drills and a grinding disc for surface treatment, various types of sandpaper, files and needle files with different frequency notches for surface treatment of parts. It is necessary to become familiar with some of these tools in order to know what kind of work they are intended for.

Hand carpentry tool

A hand tool is used with its own power. These are an ax, a hammer, a mallet, a planer, a hacksaw, a chisel, a chisel, a knife, pincers, a doboynik and clamps.

Some of these tools can be replaced with the same analogs that work under the influence of current, which greatly facilitates the process of any work. In addition, there are auxiliary tools: screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, rasps, files, etc.

A hammer

This is a very important tool for any work, including carpentry and joinery. The hammer consists of a wooden handle and a striker made of high quality steel.

There are ordinary, carpentry hammers and mallets. For carpentry, it is desirable to have 2-3 hammers of various weights (200, 400 and 600 g) in the kit. To begin with, you can purchase only one medium-weight hammer.

A conventional hammer has a round or oval flat striking surface, and on the other side of the striker has a pointed end, which is used to align the nails when driving.

A mallet is a wooden mallet, which is mainly used for grinding wooden masses in the process of gluing, when working with a chisel, etc.

With an ordinary hammer, you can break the wooden surface of the workpiece being processed or break the wooden handle of the chisel, and the blows of the mallet are softer, so they cannot lead to damage to the product. Mallets are flat and round (barrel-shaped), and the mallet handle has a rectangular shape with rounded sharp edges. They are made from wear-resistant wood of curly birch, hornbeam and elm.

Rice. 1. Hammer mallet

A round mallet is usually 18 cm high, 12 cm in diameter, 8 cm in diameter of the working ends (butts), and the length of the handle is 39 cm. You can make your own mallets using these parameters or less (Fig. 1).

Master's advice

When pulling a nail out of wood with a carpenter's hammer, in order not to crush the surface of an object or product, you need to put a piece of thin board or plywood at least 3 mm thick under the hammer, or use a metal plate.

Rice. 2. Carpenter's hammer

The carpenter's hammer has one side of the striker, like a conventional hammer, and the other end is divided into two parts like a dovetail. This forked end is used for pulling nails, etc. Thus, in the process of work, one tool can be dispensed with, using it both for driving nails and for pulling them out (Fig. 2).

Axe

This tool is simply indispensable in carpentry. With its help, splitting, cutting, hewing of wood is performed, and the reverse side of the ax handle is used to deliver stronger blows than a hammer can do. (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Ax

The ax consists of a wooden handle and an ax made of steel. Depending on the angle of the ax handle relative to the handle, there are several types of this tool.

In a straight ax, the ax handle is located at an angle of 90 ° relative to the handle. It is used for splitting wood. In an acute-angled ax, the angle of attachment of the ax handle to the handle is 80–85 °. This ax is used for the primary processing of wood: removal of bark, protruding knots on the trunk, etc. The ax handle of an obtuse-angled ax is located at an angle of 100 ° relative to the handle. It is suitable for more rough work with whole tree trunks.

There are axes in which the blade is sharpened on both sides, and there are sharpened only on one side. The first option is most often used, since it can be used both for cutting and hewing wood. And the second type of ax is suitable only for hewing.

Hacksaw

With the help of this tool, various parts of wood and metal are sawn and cut. (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Hacksaw

Hacksaws differ depending on the thickness of the saw blade and the setting of the teeth.

Each type is designed to perform a specific job, as it gives a different quality of the sawn surface. For carpentry, a hacksaw with a “mouse” tooth is usually used - its teeth are very small and often planted. For carpentry, a hacksaw with a rarer and larger tooth is used.

For example, a hacksaw with a wide blade, teeth sharpened at an angle of 45 °, and a set of 0.5 mm from the central axis is used for sawing wood across the grain. A narrow hacksaw with the same setting and method of sharpening teeth as a wide one is used for sawing thin boards and chipboard, for cutting curved parts, etc.

There is a hacksaw with a butt, which is used for sawing out small parts, when fitting joints, etc.

The blade of this hacksaw is very thin, so it is reinforced with a plank along the entire length. Without such a device, it cannot hold the direction of the cut and breaks.

Depending on the types of work performed, hacksaws with both a wide and narrow blade, as well as with large or small teeth, may be required.

Plane

A planer is also essential when working with wood. With its help, an excess layer of wood is removed and the surface of the part is leveled. (Fig. 5). Planers come with a metal or wooden body, as well as with one or two blades.

Rice. 5. Planer

A planer with a metal body is mainly used for processing hardwoods and chipboard, with a wooden body for basic work. The latter is much lighter than metal and does not require much tension in the muscles of the hands.

A single planer (with one blade) is used to level the surface after processing with a sherhebel. The blade width of this planer is 4 cm or more.

When working, a smooth chip is obtained, which practically does not break. But sometimes pieces of wood can break off or burrs can form. Therefore, when working, it is necessary to monitor the sharpness of the blade and the direction of movement of the planer.

A double planer, respectively, has two blades, each of which is equipped with a chipbreaker, which protects the surface to be machined from scoring and spalling. Of course, this tool after planing gives a perfectly flat, almost mirror-like surface. It should be used to finish the product when cleaning the surface.

It is advisable to have 2 planers available: one for planing thin and small parts, and the other for processing large boards and jambs.

Sherhebel

This is a type of planer. Sherhebel is used for rough wood processing: leveling and smoothing all irregularities after sawing. Given the degree of load on the tool, its body must be massive and heavy, so it is usually made of durable metal.

The sherhebel knife has a special sharpening - the chamfer is removed from it in a semicircle.

Jointer and semi-joiner

These tools are used for planing the surface of large parts, followed by processing with a double planer. The complexity of the work sets certain dimensions: the length of the block of jointers is 70–80 cm, the length of semi-joiners is 50–60 cm, the width of the knives is 5–8 cm.

Master's advice

Another type of planer is a grinder. This tool is equipped with a shortened body and two narrow knives set obliquely. Its design does not provide for a chipbreaker, which prevents the formation of spalls.

Therefore, to improve the planer, you can independently supplement it with a chipbreaker. With the help of a grinder, the scuffs formed after planing the surface with a sherhebel are cleaned, as well as twists and knots that are difficult to remove with an ordinary planer are eliminated.

Tsinubel

This type of planer is used to level the surface of boards and slabs before their subsequent gluing. Also with cynubel it is possible to eliminate tortuosity, teasing and knotty on workpieces. During work, you must first plan the surface of the raw board in the direction of the fibers, and then across them, then all the irregularities will disappear. If you treat the surface of the plywood first with cynubel, and then glue the product with veneer, you will get a high-quality coating that is quite suitable for the manufacture of furniture.

Such a clean operation of the tool is due to the presence of a special knife in its design. The edges of this knife protrude slightly, forming a small hollow inside, so when planing, small shafts appear on the surface. In addition, the knife of this planer is placed at an angle of 70–80 ° relative to the surface.

Chisels

This tool is used in cases where a saw cannot be used due to its large size or when it is not possible to level the surface with a planer. There are several types of chisels that you may all need for woodworking. (Fig. 6).

There is a straight chisel that is used to cut rectangular indentations. The width of the web is from 3 to 6 mm, which allows you to make large and small holes. Straight chisels have one-sided knife sharpening with a chamfer thickness of 5-15 mm. The angle of sharpening the knife can be different.

In a semicircular chisel, respectively, the sharpening of the knife is semicircular. There are steep, sloping and deep semicircular chisels.

Deep semicircular chisels are also called ceraziks. All these chisels differ from each other in terms of the width of the canvas, the radius of the circle and the depth of penetration into the wood massif.

Using them, you can make a round hole or recess, level the surface of semicircular recesses, draw a smooth line on the surface of the product.

It is advisable to have 2 chisels in the set, it is possible with the same web width - 10-12 mm, but one of them should be sloping and the other steep.

Rice. 6. Chisels

There are corner chisels that differ in the width of the blade and in the angle between the bevels of the blade. This angle is between 45° and 90°. These chisels can be used to obtain geometric recesses.

Another type of chisels is chisels-clucarzy. With their help, you can choose wood from recesses where other tools are powerless. Moreover, these chisels leave a perfectly flat surface of the bottom of the recess. Their canvas has a curved shape.

There are coal, straight and semicircular chisels-cranberries. All of them differ in the width of the blade, the depth of chamfering during sharpening, the size of the bend radius, as well as the nature and size of the bend (cranberry).

Bit

Outwardly, this tool looks like a chisel, but its functions are somewhat different. (Fig. 7). The chisel is used when chiselling wood with the additional use of a hammer (usually a mallet is used in this case) for better penetration of the blade into the solid wood. To prevent the wooden handle of the chisel from cracking from hammer blows, a metal tip is specially attached to its end.

Unlike a chisel, a chisel has a more massive blade: for carpentry tools, the width of the blade is 1.5 cm, for carpentry - from 2 cm with an extension at the base.

Rice. 7. Chisel

Knives

In joinery and carpentry, various knives are used. There is a joint knife, which is designed for cutting small depressions in solid wood, for cutting veneer into pieces, etc. Its blade has a bevel at an angle of 30–40 °, the width of the blade varies depending on the type of work (from 4 mm to 5 cm ). Also sharpening on a knife blade can be one- and two-sided. The latter (knives with two bevels) are used mainly for simple cutting, as they easily cut through the wood on both sides of the blade at once.

Knives with one chamfer, in turn, are right and left, depending on the side where the chamfer is removed. These knives are more specific and are used to cut through wood on one side.

There is also a scraper knife, which is used for scraping. The cutting blade has a chamfer on one side only, cut at an angle of 45°. This very strong and sharp tool makes it easy to remove thin chips from the surface being machined without going deep into the array.

Pincers and cutters

Pliers and wire cutters are necessary for pulling out nails or studs, biting off nail heads, bending wire and nails in fastening parts, etc. (Fig. 8). There are different types of pliers - needle nose pliers, pliers and round nose pliers.

Rice. 8. Ticks

Doboynik

With the help of this simple tool, the head of the nail is deepened into solid wood.

Screwdrivers

Screwdrivers are needed to drive screws. There are wedge and Phillips screwdrivers. Wedge-shaped are divided into unilateral and bilateral (adjustable).

The ends of their blades have different widths and thicknesses. Phillips screwdrivers differ in the width of the pointed working end, which corresponds to a certain diameter of the screw head and the width of its slot.

For joinery and carpentry using different types of screws, you will need different screwdrivers, but it is not necessary to purchase them all at once, you can do this as needed (Fig. 9).

Rice. 9. Screwdrivers

clamps

These devices are necessary when gluing, tightening and fixing parts. (Fig. 10). Clamps vary in size and design depending on the application. They are quite often used in joinery and carpentry. Clamps, clamps, presses, vise act as clamps. To prevent these tools from leaving marks of compression on the product, various gaskets are used - these are pieces of rubber, wooden blocks, etc.

Rice. 10. Clamp

Files and rasps

Files are used to remove burrs, irregularities and roughness - for final grinding of the surface of the product. Rasps, like files, are used for cleaning in places that are not accessible to another tool. The sizes and shapes of these tools are different, as well as different types of notches. A tool with a coarse cut makes the surface of the wood more rough, leaving some roughness, while a tool with a fine cut makes the surface of the wood smoother, even and clean. For work, you may need files and rasps of various shapes (Fig. 11).

Rice. 11. Files and rasp

electric tool

Processing wood with mechanical tools is a laborious job that takes a lot of time and effort. Therefore, it is more efficient to use various power tools, then labor will be more productive. Of the electrical tools that can be used in carpentry, first of all you will need an electric drill, then an electric saw, an electric planer, an electric slotter, an electric jigsaw and, finally, a milling machine. You can buy all the tools gradually, as an urgent need arises for them.

Electric saws

They are chain and disc. The basis of the chain saw device is a connected saw chain that rotates due to the operation of an electric motor through a gearbox. The chain consists of teeth, fastened together by hinges.

This saw can cut large logs, plates, thick beams and boards. (Fig. 12).

Rice. 12. Power saw

The circular saw has a round metal blade with a diameter of 20 cm and a thickness of 2 mm, which makes cuts. This disc is attached to the electric motor, on top of the device there is a protective fixed casing that covers only half of the saw blade, while its lower part remains open. Two handles are attached to the body of the tool, which can be held with both hands while processing wood, which makes it easier to work.

The circular saw is used for longitudinal and transverse sawing of boards and beams. You can fix this saw on a workbench, then you get a miniature fixed machine, which will also facilitate the process of processing material. (Fig. 13).

Rice. 13. Circular electric saw

Master's advice

Before screwing the screws, you need to pierce with an awl or drill holes with a thin drill no more than half the length of the screw. Then you need to insert a screw into the hole, press it in or lightly hammer it with a hammer, keeping it in a strictly vertical position. After that, the screw can be screwed in using a conventional screwdriver or a brace, which will help to do this faster. If you want to drive a screw into hardwood, then you need to drill or pierce a hole in it for the entire length of the screw.

When working with a circular saw, it is necessary that the edges of the casing come into contact with the surface of the wood and rest against it, then the cutting line will turn out to be even.

If in the process of sawing the movement of the saw blade through the solid wood becomes difficult, it is necessary, without stopping work, to move the saw a few centimeters back (along the cut), then again slowly direct the movement of the saw blade along the same line forward.

As with any electrical appliance, safety precautions must be followed. Before starting work, you need to check the serviceability of fastening parts, the integrity of the electrical wiring, and the reliability of fixing the saw blade. With a chain saw, first of all, the condition of the chain is checked, and then the rest of the tool parts.

Any electrical appliance must be grounded. It is possible to work with an electric saw only in a dry room, it is necessary to exclude the presence of an open source of water. If during operation it is found that the saw has become very hot and very hot, it is necessary to stop the work and check the wiring. Often this overheating occurs as a result of blunting of the saw teeth.

To prolong the life of the saw, it is necessary to remove the saw blade or chain from the tool every time after work is completed, clean it from sawdust and litter, wipe it thoroughly with kerosene, then store it in a special box until the next use.

electric planer

An electric planer, like a regular planer, is used to level the surface of a wood board or board. Planing is carried out along the fibers by rotating cutters of the tool, which are driven by an electric motor. With the help of the lowering and rising front ski, it is possible to change the depth of penetration of the cutting cutter into the array of the processed material (Fig. 14).

Rice. 14. Electric planer

This tool can be mounted on a workbench by first removing the protective cover. Then you get a mini-machine, convenient when performing bulk work. If you do not fix the planer, but hold it in your hands, then before work you need to fix the board or other processed material on the workbench. After that, you can freely process wood. With a planer, you need to walk several times over the surface, while not pressing hard on it. You need to direct the planer only along the fibers. It is also necessary to ensure that chips and sawdust do not fall under the skis. After the first pass over the surface of the wood, you need to turn off the planer and return to its original position, turn on the planer and make a second pass. The same should be done before the third pass, if required.

If you plan a short break in work, then you must also turn off the planer and put it on its side or skis up.

Sometimes the surface processed by an electric plane does not turn out to be even and smooth. This may be due to the incorrect and uneven location of the cutting cutters in the groove relative to the level of the skis. Or such defects arise as a result of blunt cutters. You need to handle the electric planer carefully, taking out the cutters from the grooves after each work, cleaning them with kerosene and putting the tool in the box.

Each time before starting work, it is necessary to check the tool for the correctness of its wiring. When working, you need to be careful, because this tool is still cutting.

The author of the book "Woodwork. Do-it-yourself furniture for the home", a cabinetmaker with great experience, generously shares his knowledge and rich experience with the reader. The book includes projects for country-style pine furniture, techniques and tricks for its manufacture. Each project comes with detailed drawings,…

Here I sit on a sleigh

Missing

The story is dedicated to a happy childhood in a provincial Russian town, those times when there was still a lot of snow and no one was going to break five-story buildings ......

Missing

The main theme of the book is the independent production of original and comfortable furniture for a country house. The book does not contain ordinary descriptions of work technologies worn out by repeated rewriting from edition to edition. But here are a number of real projects carried out by the owners of the plots ...

The textbook provides the basics of materials science and wood processing technology. The tools and machines used in carpentry are described. Facing and joining, finishing, repair of joinery products are presented. Recommendations on the organization of the workplace, safety precautions and production…

The difference between the proposed book and others on similar topics lies in the fact that here the author singled out and highlighted in detail the issues and problems that are most often encountered when working with wood. For the correct mastering of practical skills, the necessary theoretical ...

Missing

Design and build comfortable and durable furniture with the most comprehensive illustrated guide ever published. Everything is here: Ideas and samples. A visual source of information - from styles and sizes of furniture to types of joinery. Detailed assembly drawings of over 100…

Whether you need cabinets for the kitchen, home office, living room or anywhere else, this classic guide will show you exactly how to tackle the daunting task of designing and building cabinets to your exact specifications. Robert W. Lang will lift the veil of mystery from this work with an understandable tech…

Homemade crafts are a necessary, creative and exciting activity. The book will help answer the question about the need for homemade crafts "To make or not to make?", tell you how to organize a workshop at home. Particular attention in the book is given to tools and fixtures that should be ...

Missing

Information is given on the structural and architectural parts of buildings and structures, types of construction work. The main operations for processing wood with manual and mechanized tools, its arrangement and methods of work, methods of joinery and carpentry, fasteners are described. Processes reviewed…

Thanks to the emergence of new technological materials on the construction market, which greatly facilitate the work of a carpenter-carpenter, independent creativity in this field of activity has become possible and affordable. From this book you can get all the necessary information about joinery and carpentry: to ...

The book is dedicated to built-in furniture. Here it is described in detail about the device and types of built-in furniture, frames and boxes, drawers, shelves and other retractable structures, fixtures and hinges. Particular attention is paid to wardrobes in the book. Separately, the book discusses the processes of creating a combined ...

Any craft brings up patience, slowness, perseverance. And when you master any craft, you get specific visible results that cannot but satisfy the human desire to create something. This book describes in good literary and professional language such an eternal craft, ...

The rack is one of the most necessary and useful pieces of furniture that can solve the problem of placing a mass of objects. No less functional are the shelves, which are considered not only a universal container for the necessary and not very necessary, but also an important component of the decor of an apartment or house. In it…

The book will be a real gift for home craftsmen who dream of creating a unique interior for their home with the help of homemade furniture. Tips and tricks will help you master the secrets of carpentry, cladding and mosaic woodworking. You will learn how to design and...

The manual outlines a new methodology for planning lessons in carpentry and introducing new correctional and developmental technologies in the process of teaching students in grades 5–9 of special and general educational institutions that implement the Federal State Educational Standard and the AOOP for the education of students with intellectual disabilities. Method…

When you walk down the street, signs on furniture stores literally beckon you - come in, look, buy. Perhaps you can come in and see, but buy ... Agree, there are certain problems with this. Either the dimensions of the proposed furniture do not suit you, then the design, then the color. Let's talk about prices...

Working with wood requires theoretical knowledge and certain practical skills, as well as an adequate approach when choosing materials, tools, and workplace equipment. You will find the necessary information for this on the pages of our book. This will help you succeed in carpentry and joinery…

Practical summer cottage furniture