When to plant actinidia in the spring. Actinidia: growing decorative vines on the site. Planting, care and use in landscape design. Planting dates in spring

Nature gives a wide variety of amazing plants. Some of them “share” their healing properties with us, others “please” the eye with beauty. Without any doubt, actinidia combines these two qualities: it has a large number of substances useful for our body and gives exotic to any garden.

Actinidia and its varieties

Actinidia is a perennial liana that climbs along supports to a great height. This is a dioecious plant. The leaves are leathery, finely serrated along the edges. The plant is shade-tolerant, winter-hardy, loves moist loamy soil, open spaces, does not tolerate drought well. The fruits are greenish, with small seeds. Actinidia berries are rich in nutrients, in terms of vitamin C content they are second only to rose hips. In the people, this plant is well known as a laxative, antihelminthic and antiscorbutic. The most valuable species is actinidia kolomikta, from which two popular varieties are bred - Pineapple Michurina and Clara Zetkin.

Pineapple Michurina is a liana 6-7 m high, yields about 5 kg, but only after the 6th year of growth. The fruits are dark green, flattened, with a pleasant sweet taste, with the aroma of pineapple, weighing 2-3 g. The berries ripen in August, not at the same time, easily crumble, and can be stored for 3-4 days.

Variety Clara Zetkin has a bushy shape, bears fruit from 5-6 years. You can harvest from August, the fruits look elongated, yellowish, have a pleasant sweetish-sour taste and weigh about 3.5 g. They crumble slightly.

Reproduction of actinidia

Actinidia can be propagated using cuttings, shoots and seeds. To obtain layering, the upper part of a young vine is bent and fixed in a groove with wooden hooks, after which it is covered with a 4-6 cm layer of soil so that the top rises 6-10 cm above the surface. In autumn, young layers are separated from the plant and transplanted.

Seeds are sown in beds or boxes at the end of September to a depth of 1 cm. When 2-3 leaves appear on shoots, they are transplanted (dive) into other boxes or beds. Under the permanent place of growth of actinidia, it is desirable to allocate semi-shady areas. The pit for planting seedlings should not exceed 1 m in diameter and about 60-70 cm deep. The bottom of the pit is covered with a 10-centimeter layer of brick, and on top - with black soil mixed with 1.5-2 buckets of humus.

Since actinidia is a dioecious plant, male specimens are planted near female specimens. Dioeciousness is determined by the following signs: on male vines, flowers are collected in inflorescences of 6 pieces or more, on female ones they are single. In addition, on male plants, the upper side of dark green leaves during the summer becomes fluffy white and then pink-red, and on female leaves a brownish color appears by autumn.

Actinidia: planting and care (video)

Features of growing actinidia

Seedlings planted in autumn are cut short, leaving the best two stems with 3-4 buds. In the spring, the weaker stem is removed. During the summer, several shoots grow on the stem. In the fall, after the end of the growing season, only the two most developed vines should be left on it, and the extra ones should be cut. A year later, lateral vertical fruit-bearing shoots grow from them, from which fruit-bearing branches of the 2nd order develop next year. It is better to prune the bushes in the fall, since in the spring a lot of juice expires when shortening. After three years, the vines are replaced with side shoots.

Wire supports must be placed under the plants. Actinidia roots are located close to the surface, therefore, in order not to damage them, loosening the soil should not be done deep. The plant is watered abundantly throughout the growing season.

The use of fertilizers and dressings in the cultivation of actinidia

It is necessary to fertilize actinidia in early spring, before flowering, and in autumn. It is best to use superphosphate (6-8 g per 1 sq. M) and humus (2-3 buckets) for this. It is very important to mulch tree trunks with manure, sawdust or straw.

A ripe crop must be harvested correctly and in a timely manner.

Ripe fruits of actinidia are green and almost transparent.

They are collected on a cloth, slightly shaking the plants.

Actinidia care (video)

Reviews and comments

Marina 16.04.2016

Actinidia blooms for the first time for me, but the trouble is - when I bought it, no one in the store said that she needed a pair. I still don't know if I have a boy or a girl. If you buy seedlings now, they are sold so small that you have to wait a few more years until they bloom. What can be done to achieve the harvest as soon as possible?

The actinidia plant is gaining more and more popularity among gardeners. Planting and caring for it is quite simple. In addition, she perfectly adapted to the climatic conditions of central Russia.

Description of actinidia

Actinidia is a rather numerous genus of woody deciduous vines growing in the subtropical climate of Asia, on the island of Java and in Russia in the Far East. Actinidia have survived from the pre-glacial period, have adapted to the cold and perfectly tolerate the climate of the temperate zone of Russia. Thanks to this quality, plants are gaining more and more fans among gardeners.

In landscape design, actinidia is used to decorate arbors and as a hedge. An adult plant on a support forms a high dense wall with silky foliage, creating a dense shade. In autumn, the leaves turn pinkish, yellow or crimson. And in winter, the shoots enchant with their bizarre weave and graphics.

Anemone leaves have an elongated heart-shaped shape and jagged or smooth edges. In some species, the tips of the leaves turn white, which makes the actinidia plant even more decorative.

Actinidia blooms in April with white or pinkish flowers that have a pleasant aroma. Blooms very profusely for 15-20 days.

The fruits of the plant are oblong, pubescent or smooth, with juicy sweet and sour pulp and pineapple-strawberry aroma.

Landing place

In order to please the eye in the garden of actinidia, planting and caring for the plant must be competent. The landing site is chosen taking into account the fact that actinidia is a long-liver. In nature, its shoots rise, leaning on trees, 20-30 meters above the ground and form dense thickets. Actinidia loves moist soils, but does not tolerate stagnant groundwater. It grows well on slightly acidic and neutral soils rich in humus and humus. Although all varieties of actinidia are shade-tolerant, it is best to plant the plant on the sunny side in a light openwork shade. Only with sufficient lighting can you get a bountiful harvest. The structure of the soil should not be dense. The most suitable are fertile loams and sandy loamy enriched soils.

Having decided on the landing site, they dig a hole for each plant with a depth and width of 60 cm. Be sure to make drainage: pebbles, small pieces of bricks, stones fall asleep on the bottom. The next layer is fertile soil and leafy humus, complex fertilizers, a little wood ash are added and mixed. They make a mound in the middle of the pit and plant a young plant in it. The root ball must first be well moistened. If the plant has open roots, it is necessary to distribute them along the mound and immediately sprinkle with earth, preventing drying. The soil around the seedling is slightly compacted without deepening the root neck, watered abundantly and mulched with peat, humus or leafy compost. In the future, mulching is done every year so that the roots are always moist and do not overheat. Actinidia requires a lot of nutrients, and the distance between seedlings should be at least 2 meters.

Landing is best done in early May.

Seedling selection

Actinidia seedlings are purchased from specialized nurseries or from well-known gardeners. Pay attention to the state of the root system. Roots should be healthy, well developed, without damage. Shoots - without rot, not dry. The best choice would be an annual plant with a closed root system, since actinidia does not tolerate drying out of the root ball. For three female plants, you need to purchase one male of the same species. Interspecific pollination in actinidia does not occur.

How to grow this plant

Growing actinidia is not a difficult task. This is a grateful and useful plant. It has a number of undeniable advantages:

• good frost resistance
• fast growth,
• decorative shoots. Actinidia blooms very beautifully, but its intertwining vines with heart-shaped leaves also decorate the landscape,
• tasty and healthy fruits. In terms of vitamin C content, they are superior to blackcurrants, lemons and oranges. In addition to fruits, flowers, bark and leaves of the plant are used for medicinal purposes.

All of the above properties of actinidia make this type of vine promising for cultivation in the Russian climate.

Growing actinidia is not difficult. The right choice of planting material, planting site, variety and type of plant will contribute to successful growth and fruiting. The main care is pruning, pest and disease control, weeding, watering, loosening and fertilizing. All these methods do not differ from the standard care for other fruit plants.

Reproduction of actinidia vegetatively

Actinidia, planting and caring for which can be mastered by any gardener, is easily propagated vegetatively (cuttings and root layers) and seeds.

The most preferred method is cuttings. At the end of June, mature layers are selected and divided into parts of 3-4 leaves. They are planted in a mixture of sand and peat 5 cm apart to a depth of about 6 cm. At the same time, for good root development, the thickness of the substrate should be at least 25 cm. Seedlings should be watered and shaded regularly, protected from direct sunlight. Rooting layering occurs 20-25 days after planting.

During the growing season, a strong root system and shoots 30-40 cm long develop. Young plants are covered for the winter with covering material, leaf litter or coniferous branches, and protected from mice and cats. In such a shelter, seedlings tolerate frosts and thaws well.

A simpler planting of actinidia is propagation by root layers. A developed shoot is bent to the ground, pressed down with a load and covered with earth. The shoot takes root quickly. The very next year, young actinidia can be separated. This is a guaranteed receipt of a new healthy plant.

Reproduction by seeds

The most time-consuming method is propagation by seeds. It requires patience, accuracy and some experience from the gardener. It is this method that is used to develop new varieties of plants.

Actinidia seeds are stratified for 3 months at 4-6 degrees Celsius, after which they are sown in light soil and placed in a room with a temperature of 22-27 degrees above zero. Shoots are protected from the sun, and at the end of May they are taken out into the street and placed in a shady place in the garden. Strengthened plants are planted on seedling ridges, where they overwinter under cover. The following spring, actinidia are placed in a permanent place. Seedlings begin to bear fruit no earlier than 6 years of development. When propagated by seeds, it is impossible to determine the future sex of actinidia. Therefore, for successful cross-pollination, at least 4-5 seedlings must be planted.

plant care

Actinidia does not tolerate direct sunlight well. During the first year of life, the seedling is covered from the sun with light material, ensuring its stay in partial shade. At an older age, actinidia no longer suffers from the sun. The soil around the plant is weeded from weeds and watered in dry weather, but not abundantly, since actinidia does not tolerate flooding. You can not deeply loosen the soil around the plant, as the roots are located close to the surface. For the winter, young actinidia is covered with leaf humus, leaves and spruce branches from rodents.

In the next two years, the soil is regularly loosened with care, mulched with rotted compost, without exposing the root collar. It is necessary to protect young plants with a net from rodents and cats, which are happy to gnaw through the shoots of actinidia.

For a good development of seedlings, regular top dressing, good watering and spraying are necessary. At the beginning of the growing season, actinidia is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers or a weak solution of cow manure at the rate of 2 kg per 1 sq. m. From the second half of summer sprinkled with a small amount of wood ash. Actinidia responds well to the addition of superphosphate (40 g per 1 sq. M.) and potassium salt (10 g per 1 sq. M.).

Actinidia crown formation

It is possible to cut and form the crown of actinidia only immediately after flowering or in late autumn, after the leaves fall, due to the strong spring sap flow in these plants.

The formation of creepers begins from the second year, if the actinidia is well developed. If the shoots have grown insufficiently, then pruning is transferred to 3 years. At the first shaping pruning, three strong shoots are left, the rest are completely removed. Left shoots are tied to a support. In autumn, the tops of the shoots are cut into several buds.

The next summer, of the regrown side shoots, the strongest ones are tied horizontally to a support, forming a fan. The rest are removed again. They try to prevent thickening of the crown.

At 3-4 years of vegetation, actinidia begins to form shorter fruit shoots. They are tied vertically. In the future, more powerful ones are chosen again and tied horizontally. In subsequent years, pruning actinidia involves removing dead shoots and rejuvenating the plant, for which old branches are cut out.

Actinidia bears fruit in one place for about 50 years and manages to form a powerful trunk, so the supports for the vine should be made very strong. Their height should be convenient for harvesting and caring for the plant. It is approximately 3 meters.

Actinidia yield

The yield of an adult vine depends on the variety and growing conditions. From one wild plant, 5-10 kg of berries are harvested. Cultivated actinidia give a good harvest of tasty and healthy berries - up to 50 kg per diana with proper care. Some varieties with intensive agricultural technology give up to 70 kg of berries per tree.

In some varieties, the fruits ripen together, in others - gradually. In addition to different ripening periods, the fruits of individual varieties differ in weight, shape, color, and shades of taste. Their chemical composition and the main direction of use are also different.

Actinidia berries are consumed raw, they are used to make jam and compotes, they are sprinkled with sugar and stored until spring. Fallen fruits are used to make homemade wine.

Actinidia kolomikta

Actinidia kolomikta - the most famous and favorite type of actinidia, it bears fruit up to 25-35 years. A very decorative fruit vine that grows up to 7-8 meters under favorable conditions. In nature, it is found in the Far East along the banks of rivers and streams. Uses trees for support.

It has a characteristic tricolor color of the leaves. Young leaves are reddish, older ones are green, and the tips of the leaves turn white before flowering, especially in sunny areas. After 10 days, the white areas become pinkish, and the vine has a bright festive look.

When the actinidia blooms, the garden is filled with a pleasant jasmine scent. The flowers are white and rather large, on long stalks. Flowering lasts 15-25 days.

The fruits ripen in August. They are elongated, green, up to 2 cm in size, taste like an apple with a strawberry flavor.

Actinidia kolomikta, which is planted in the same way as other types of these vines, has a large selection of varieties. Gardeners-amateurs and professionals have plenty to choose from.

What varieties of actinidia kolomikta plants are most popular?

1. Kolomikta folk is a high-yielding variety. It has an early fruit ripening period. The berry is laterally compressed, oblong, with slight ribbing on the surface. Fruit weight - up to 5 grams, with a high content of ascorbic acid.
2. Festive - the fruits ripen in August. They have a very elongated shape, yellowish-green in color, weighing 3 grams, with an apple flavor. Productive variety, early ripening.
3. Grape is an early variety. The color of the fruit is green with a blush, the skin is smooth. The fruits are rounded, weighing 2.5 grams, 2-2.5 cm long, with an apple flavor. The variety is small-fruited, early, fruitful.
4. Waffle - fast-growing, high-yielding. The fruit is cylindrical with a sharp top, weighing up to 3 grams, the color is dark green with a blush. The taste is delicate, sweet and sour.
5. Lakomka is a relatively new variety. The fruit is large with light stripes. Has a pineapple flavor. Mid-season.
6. Doctor Shimanovsky is a self-pollinating variety of a new selection. Liana is relatively small. The leaves are dark green, bronze in autumn. The fruits are similar to gooseberries. It grows well in a sunny, wind-sheltered side. Late ripe variety.
7. Slastena is an early ripe variety. The fruit is yellow-green, cylindrical. It has a mass of up to 2.5 grams. Marmalade taste.
8. Household - the color of the fruit is olive, the taste is pineapple-apple. The size of the berry is medium, weighing up to 5 grams. The variety is early.

Actinidia kolomikta, the care of which is the same as for other types of this plant, pleases gardeners with the fact that it is the most frost-resistant.

Actinidia arguta

Actinidia arguta is a strong climber 18-25 meters high and very thick at the base. Stem bark is light grey. The leaves are green, monochromatic. The flowers are odorless, larger than those of actinidia kolomikta, with a greenish tint. The fruits are larger, on average up to 7 grams with a delicate pulp of sweet and sour taste. The variety is productive, but does not tolerate frost well.

On the basis of actinidia arguta, several large-fruited frost-resistant varieties have been bred. They have bright fruit aromas, ripen together and do not crumble. Argut varieties with a sharp taste are very interesting.

Varieties of actinidia of the argut type:

• Firebird - the fruits have a taste of hot pepper and a peppery smell. The size of the berries is up to 6 grams. Late ripe.
• The spindle is a late-ripening variety. Fruits weighing up to 6.5 grams, sweet-pepper taste with the aroma of figs.
• Healing - the name is given to the variety for the high content of carotene in the fruits. The fruit weighs 4-4.5 grams on average. The taste of figs and sweet pepper. Late maturing variety.

Self-fertile actinidia, or polygamum

This actinidia is self fertile. One of the rare self-pollinating species.

A feature is the bright orange color of ripe fruits. This is due to the high content of carotene, which makes the actinidia of this species a worthy competitor to sea buckthorn.

It is worth noting that actinidia self-fertile is distinguished by unusual taste qualities of fruits. They combine paprika and fig flavors and are very sweet when fully ripe. The unripe fruit has a slightly pungent aftertaste. In some varieties, the sharp taste is strongly developed. The shape of the fruit is oblong, with a sharp top. Berries are used to make sauces, and salads are prepared from young shoots. All varieties of actinidia polygamum begin to bear fruit from the third year of life, they are distinguished by high productivity and long life expectancy.

Other types

Actinidia is represented by a wide variety of species. We have listed the varieties of the most popular of them. Other species that may be of interest to gardeners are:

1. Actinidia Giraldi is a close relative of the argut species. Rarely found in nature. With the correct formation of the liana, it is distinguished by large fruits of a harmonious shape and with a delicate taste.
2. Actinidia purpurea is a heat-loving large vine with smooth, heart-shaped leaves. Berries up to 3 cm long, dark red, sweet with a slight aroma. It grows in China, does not winter in Russia.
3. Actinidia gourmet (kiwi) is a wild species native to China. Large liana with massive fruits weighing 35-40 grams. It was introduced into culture in New Zealand, where it got its name "kiwi" for its resemblance to a local bird. Modern breeding offers many improved varieties of this plant with large (up to 100 grams) fruits. Kiwis have great dietary value. They contain potassium, iodine, vitamins, micro and macro elements. Substances contained in fruits remove "bad" cholesterol and prevent the formation of blood clots. All these properties fully apply to all types of cultivated and wild actinidia.
4. Large-fruited actinidia - bred by Kyiv scientists by crossing actinidia purpurea with actinidia arguta. As a result, a unique winter-hardy productive variety was obtained with large fruits that taste like pineapple and smell like honey. The size of the berries reaches 10-22 grams. Liana is tall, up to 18-20 meters in height, with strong stems and large leaves. In the future, work on the selection of the hybrid was aimed at enhancing the frost resistance of the plant. Varieties suitable for central Russia were obtained.

Here are some other interesting varieties:

1. Actinidia hybrid Sausage - has a bouquet type of flowering, high yield, resistance to frost and large fruits weighing up to 15-18 grams. The color of the skin and pulp of the berries is pink or purple, which gives additional attractiveness to the variety. The smell and taste of fruits is sweet-caramel with fruity notes. Late ripe.
2. Souvenir is a late maturing variety. Has oval fruits of green color with a red shade. The mass of each berry is 7-8 grams, the taste is fig.
3. Candy - fruits weigh up to 8.5 grams each, green, with the smell of fruit.
4. Kyiv hybrid-10 and Kyiv large-fruited - both varieties of late ripening. Berries weighing 8-10 grams, have a pleasant sweet taste and delicate aroma.

All new selections are suitable for growing in temperate climates and are becoming increasingly popular among gardeners.

Diseases and pests

Actinidia, the planting and care of which are discussed above, was brought to our zone from the Far East relatively recently. Therefore, a plant in the middle lane feels good, but several types of fungi and pests can still cause diseases.

Possible diseases of actinidia:

1. Philosticosis is a fungal disease. It appears as dark spots with a reddish border. The leaf blade in the center of the lesion is destroyed, and the leaf becomes full of holes. Old and weakened plants growing in adverse conditions or damaged by rodents are affected. Such vines can also get sick with local diseases.
2. Ramulariasis - characterized by the appearance of spots on both sides of the leaf.
3. Actinidia fruits are affected by fruit rot and mold. Actinidia argut is especially susceptible to diseases.

When signs of illness appear, the plant should be treated with antifungal drugs, and the damaged leaves should be burned. In early spring, preventive blue spraying is carried out with copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquid.

Relic liana grows in Southeast Asia.

On the territory of Russia, its habitat is the Far East.

The actinidia plant has recently become a popular garden crop.

It is not surprising, because green fruits resemble kiwi in taste and shape.

Most varieties have perfectly adapted to the cold of central Russia.

With proper care, the vine bears abundant fruit every summer.

The culture is dioecious. On some specimens, she has only female flowers, and on others, only male ones.

For the formation of fruits, it is required that pollen from male plants falls on female ones.

Determine the sex of actinidia easy, just look at the vine during the flowering period. The male flowers lack a pistil, but have many stamens. The female flowers have a large pistil, while the stamens, on the contrary, are small.

These individuals are 95% sterile. Sex does not change throughout life.

Pollen is carried from one plant to another by beneficial insects and the wind. In autumn, the male actinidia changes the color of the foliage from dark green to red.

Female individuals do not have such properties.

For four female actinidia, it is necessary to plant one male of the same species.

To date, actinidia self-fertile has been bred.

However, its yield is significantly lower than dioecious vines.

Types and varieties of actinidia with photos and names

The most famous actinidia is the kiwi. This species does not tolerate cold weather, therefore it is not grown in Russian household plots.

The most winter-hardy plant is actinidia kolomikta. This species is suitable for beginner gardeners.

Berries are valued for their delicate structure and high content of vitamin C. Some varieties have a pineapple flavor.

Kolomikta is suitable for decorative vertical gardening. White spots form on the leaves of adult male plants in summer.

Varieties of this species have received the widest distribution. Most actinidia are suitable for planting in the Moscow region.

Argut species grows fastest of all. Its fruits are much larger than those of other species. Plant height can reach 20 m, so it needs support.

The leaves are not decorative. Hybrid forms retain the green color of the fruit even after processing.

Actinidia arguta has a late growing season, so the upper part of the vine may freeze slightly. For this reason, the species is poorly distributed in Russia.

Actinidia Giralda is considered a subspecies of argut. It is listed in the Red Book as an endangered species.

The plant is famous for its winter hardiness and high quality of berries. The weight of one can be 25 g.

Fruiting occurs in mid-September. From one plant you can harvest 5 kg of crop. For the winter, actinidia is not removed from the supports.

It differs from other types of actinidia polygamum. At home, the Far East, it is called pepper. Yellow berries have a pungent taste.

The males have beautiful silvery foliage. Flowers are also valuable, they have a jasmine aroma.

The height of the plant is 5 m. The crop ripens at the end of September, the unripe fruits are very bitter.

Actinidia hybrida and actinidia purpurea are subspecies of argut.

These are the most heat-loving types of actinidia, which can freeze without shelter.

Ripe berries of hybrid actinidia are lilac in color, their flesh is light. Most varieties are fast growing.

Liana cultivation began at the beginning of the last century. Modern breeders have created varieties with fruits that have apple, banana, fig and grape flavors.

Ella Ioganovna Kolbasina played a special role in popularizing the fruitful vine. The Doctor of Science has bred more than thirty varieties based on the types of argut and kolomikt.

To date, there are more than a hundred varieties and hybrid forms. They are subject to high demands.

Winter hardiness is possessed by vines of the Far Eastern and Siberian selection. European forms are less hardy.

The best varieties of actinidia:

1. Yellow spindle. The plant is a polygamous species. Fast growing female vine resistant to frost and disease. Fruiting begins in early September. Berries of a conical shape resemble sweet peppers in taste. From one bush you can harvest 10 kg of crop.
2. Gourmand. Actinidia species kolomikta. Liana has a decorative value: its foliage changes color several times during the summer. Large green berries are harvested in mid-September. They have a soft texture and a sweet taste. The bushes are winter-hardy, the vines are not afraid of pest attacks.
3. Doctor Shimanovsky. Female self-pollinating cultivar of the kolomikta species. Foliage changes color from green to pink in mid-summer. The fruits ripen in August, they have a sweet and sour taste reminiscent of strawberries. The variety is not susceptible to diseases and freezing.
4. Kyiv hybrid. Argut actinidia reaches eight meters. In warm regions, berries begin to sing in the first decade of September. The weight of one fruit is up to 18 g. 10 kg of crop can be harvested from one bush. The plant is cold-resistant and shade-tolerant.
5. Kolomikta pineapple. Actinidia belongs to the old varieties that were actively bred in the thirties of the last century. In June, the foliage gradually turns white from the bottom, the upper part remains green. The fruits ripen at the end of August.
6. Sweet. Actinidia is widely used to create green arbors. Liana gives a good harvest, small berries are painted green. The first berries ripen at the end of August. The plant is cold and disease resistant.
7. Issai. Self-fertile actinidia of Japanese selection. The height of the bush reaches 9 m. The berries are 4 cm in diameter, they have a delicate texture and a sweet taste. One bush gives 15 kg of crop. The variety tolerates frosts down to -25˚C.

The fruits of all varietal plants contain vitamins, minerals and trace elements.

Reproduction of actinidia cuttings

With the help of reproduction, you can get new female and male individuals that will retain all the characteristics of the variety.

Growing actinidia from seeds is a troublesome business.

Young creepers grow slowly and begin to bear fruit a few years later than plants obtained by vegetative methods.

Green cuttings

Annual cuttings are cut in June. The shoot should have 2 buds and 3 internodes.

The lower petioles and leaves are cut off, the upper leaf is cut in half.

Cuttings are planted in a nutrient mixture consisting of peat, sod and humus. From above, the earth is sprinkled with river sand.

It is advisable to transfer the container to a greenhouse, the humidity of the air should be at least 80%. Roots appear by the end of the third week.

Actinidia can be transplanted to a permanent place from the second year of life. Females have a higher survival rate.

lignified cuttings

This method is less laborious, but lignified cuttings take root worse.

Shoots 70 cm long are cut in late autumn, after the sap flow has stopped.

Sections of the cuttings are dipped in paraffin, and then placed in a wooden box lined with moss.

In winter, boxes are stored in a dark and cool room.

With the onset of warm weather, the shoots are cut, kept in a growth stimulator and planted in a garden bed at an angle of 45˚.

The soil must remain moist. For the winter, the plants are covered with agrotex.

Reproduction by layering

In spring, the soil near the liana is fertilized, dug up and small grooves are made. For reproduction, annual shoots with strong growth are used.

They are laid in grooves and carefully pinned. Soil is poured on top so that only the top of the shoot remains above the surface.

Throughout the summer, the soil around the bush should remain moist. In mid-September, the layers are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a permanent place.

Landing in open ground

Liana can hardly be called a capricious plant. With proper planting and care, actinidia will live for more than forty years.

Modern delicacy varieties bear fruit annually in the temperate zone.

The type of kolomikta and its varieties are considered a win-win option. They bear fruit abundantly both in the European part and in Siberia and the Far East.

Place and dates of landing

Liana will give a high yield in open areas, illuminated by the sun for 6 hours a day.

Young plants are planted in the spring, before the start of sap flow, while the buds are sleeping.

Actinidia dioecious can be planted in autumn.

It is important that at least three weeks remain before the onset of frost.

Liana can die in a cold and snowy winter, so autumn planting should be practiced exclusively in the southern regions.

Good predecessors and neighbors

It is better to plant actinidia in the place where currants, linden and hazel used to grow. Annual flowers are also planted next to the liana.

Priming

The plant develops well on sandy and sandy soils.

Heavy lands are enriched with peat and sand.

If the soil in the area is acidic, it is necessary to add dolomite flour six months before planting.

The depth of the landing pit should be at least 50 cm. Crushed stone or broken bricks are poured into its bottom, which will act as drainage.

Planting actinidia is impossible without a layer of nutrient soil mixed with mineral fertilizers.

After placing the seedling, the planting pit is covered with a nutrient substrate, rammed and mulched.

Support preparation

Actinidia vines grow rapidly. For successful fruiting, it is necessary to prepare a support in the first year after planting. The simplest and most convenient solution is wooden trellises.

It is important that the stems do not get tangled on the support, this will lead to a reduction in yield. Liana will entangle the picket fence, metal mesh and wire frame.

Liana can live 40 years, so she needs a strong support, preferably from metal pipes.

How to care for Actinidia outdoors

Actinidia seedlings begin to bear fruit in the fifth year after planting. For the active growth of a young plant, shading is necessary.

An adult liana feels great under the rays of the sun. Moist soil, fertilizer, and proper pruning are key to healthy growth.

Watering and loosening

In the first year of life, vines are periodically shed from a sprinkler. The soil itself must be constantly moist.

However, excess water will cause root rot. Mature bushes need watering only during dry periods. Once a week, a bucket of water is brought under the plant.

Only young plants need loosening, earth crust and weeds inhibit their development. The culture has a superficial location of the roots: drought, intensive loosening can damage them.

The danger lies in the fact that the roots do not recover in the year of damage. In females, the root system grows faster.

top dressing

It is impossible to grow actinidia without fertilizers. To activate the vital processes, the liana needs organic substances.

In early April, when the buds open, rotted manure is laid out under the bushes in a thin layer.

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied twice during the summer.

The first time the vine is fed during the budding period. After the appearance of fruits, the bushes are shed again.

pruning

Pruning actinidia has several goals at once. It eliminates the excessive density of the crown, activates the growth of new shoots, increases the volume of the crop and gives the bush the desired shape.

You can not prune in March, otherwise the branches will "cry".

Bushes are convenient to form during flowering.

The best option is to prune actinidia in the fall. Dried, diseased and sagging branches are subject to removal.

Fruiting branches for several years are replaced by young shoots. Argutu is thinned out more intensively than other species, as it bears fruit on shortened shoots. After autumn pruning, actinidia is covered for the winter.

Wintering

The kolomikta type is the most widespread on the territory of Russia. These plants do not need shelter. Moreover, the vines wrapped up for the winter can get wet.

Kolomikta is not removed from the trellis. Other species are covered in the same way as grapes.

Before frost, the branches are removed from the supports and wrapped with spunbond, folded in two layers. With the onset of persistent frosts, they are additionally covered with plastic wrap.

Diseases and pests

Plants rarely get sick. Most often, the liana is affected by gray rot, the spores of which are transferred from infected annual crops.

The spread of the infection is facilitated by warm and humid weather.

Landings must be sprayed with copper-containing preparations:

• "Ordan"
• "Khomom"
• Bordeaux liquid.

A dangerous enemy is the leaf beetle, which eats leaves and buds. The caterpillars of the raisin moth leaves huge holes in the leaves.

It is necessary to remove insects in a timely manner and spray plantings with Karate, Decis or Aktellik insecticides.

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The actinidia woody liana is attractive for its tasty fruits with a high content of ascorbic acid, unpretentiousness (planting and caring for it are not difficult), longevity (lives up to 40 years). In the temperate zone with cool summers and cold winters, many garden varieties of actinidia (kolomikta, arguta, polygama, purple, etc.) have successfully taken root.

Did you know? The name "Actinidia" comes from the Greek. Ακτινιδιον - ray. Actinidia were first described by Lindley in 1835, and in 1905 the plant was cultivated in New Zealand, the resulting fruit was named "kiwi" in honor of the New Zealand bird. I. Michurin from 1909 was actively engaged in breeding actinidia.

Planting actinidia seedlings

If you decide to plant actinidia on your site, then you need to use sprouts obtained by cuttings (actinidia grown from seeds lose their varietal characteristics). You can grow seedlings yourself, or you can buy in a specialized store. When buying actinidia seedlings, two circumstances should be considered:

1. How is the escape obtained ( if the shoot grows from a bud - it is obtained from seeds, if a short trunk with lateral processes - the shoot is obtained by propagation from a cutting).
2. What gender is the plant actinidia is a dioecious culture, therefore, for fruiting, it is necessary to buy seedlings of both sexes).

Important! When purchasing actinidia seedlings, you should pay attention to the roots - they must be closed (in the ground, in polyethylene, in a special container). Sunlight, heat, dry air can harm the plant. The most optimal age for a seedling is no more than three years (more "adult" plants tolerate transplanting worse). The sex of a plant can only be identified by its flowers. Cutting seedlings inherit the sex of the donor plant, so it is recommended to buy shoots of faded plants.

Optimal landing time

Cultivation of actinidia largely depends on the time of planting. Among gardeners there is no unity on the issue of optimal timing. Several options are possible:

• early spring, before the juices began to move;
• end of April - beginning of summer (after the end of flowering);
• autumn (at least two to three weeks before the start of frost).

Soil composition

Actinidia prefer acidic and slightly acidic soils (pH = 4 - 5), but grow well on neutral soils (with good fertilizer). Clay soils with a high level of groundwater are the least suitable. A necessary requirement for successful growth is that the soil for actinidia must have good drainage. It is advisable to plant plants in elevated areas with natural flow.

When planting actinidia in advance (two weeks), you need to prepare landing pits (when decorating walls - trenches):

• 0.5 m - width, length, depth (the length of the trench depends on the length of the wall);
• drainage (brick chips, pebbles);
• on top of the drainage - enriched soil (humus (bucket), charcoal (50 gr.), Superphosphate (250 gr.).

After the sediment of the soil, during the planting of seedlings and after, ordinary earth should be added.

Good predecessors and neighbors of actinidia

The best predecessor is black currant (it loosens the soil, does not deplete it). The choice of "neighbors" is due to the usefulness of the plant for actinidia. Beneficial effects are provided by:

• legumes - beans, beans, peas (improve the soil, maintain the desired moisture balance, improve the microclimate);
• blackcurrant, hazel;
• flowers - petunia, gerbera, calendula, aster, etc. (do not dry out the soil, decorate).

Negative consequences are guaranteed when landing next to:

Important! Actinidia must be shaded before it reaches 3 years of age (the sun's rays can cause burns to the root system and stems).

Correct fit

Before planting, actinidia seedlings are prepared as follows: dry or broken shoots are cut, the roots are dipped in a clay mash, a bucket of water is poured into the pit.

The root neck should be flush with the ground. It is necessary to ensure that voids do not form, trample the ground a little and mulch with organic matter.

For every three female plants to bear fruit, there must be one male. The distance between seedlings during planting is at least one and a half meters. Upon completion of planting, it is necessary to water the seedling with 2 - 3 buckets of water and cover it from direct sunlight with gauze, paper, etc.

Did you know? It is possible to determine where the females and where the males are only by the flowers of actinidia: if in the middle of the flower there is a white ovary with stigma-rays, this is a female flower, if the ovary is surrounded by stamens, it is a male.

Actinidia care basics

Proper planting and the complete absence of pests make it easier to care for actinidia. For better plant growth and increased fertility, it is advisable to provide it with supports - trellises (galvanized wire between the posts).

Important! Planted cuttings from lignified actinidia cannot be transplanted for at least two years - their root system must get stronger.

Watering and fertilizing the soil

Watering actinidia - moderate. Excessive moisture should not be allowed (the indicator is the earth at the roots). All actinidia love spraying leaves with mist (morning and evening).

Fertilizers are selected taking into account the preferences of the plant (slightly acidic and acidic soils) - potassium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, wood ash, etc. Categorically contraindicated chlorine fertilizers such as lime and fresh manure.

Before you feed actinidia in spring, after the snow melts, you need to loosen the ground near the roots shallowly (by 3 - 5 cm). You can not dig - you can damage the roots. You need to feed:

Important! Actinidia are sometimes affected by leaf spot and gray fruit rot. Young plants (shoots and especially roots) can be eaten by cats. To preserve the roots, the planted sprouts are fenced with a metal mesh.

How to cut

Actinidia care involves regular pruning of the plant.. Pruning is necessary for a young vine (for its proper formation) and an adult plant (the constant growth of the vine leads to thickening, darkening, and reduced yields).

Consider the following when planning pruning:

• the most optimal time for the procedure is the summer months, immediately after flowering is completed;
• in autumn, about a month before frost (in different regions, the timing of frost may vary) - pruning is not recommended (awakened buds and young shoots will not ripen and frost will kill them). In the southern regions, sanitary pruning is carried out after the end of leaf fall;
• in early spring (when the juice moves along the vine), pruning is prohibited - any violation of the integrity of the plant is fraught with its death.

Important! Each variety of actinidia has its own specific features that must be considered when pruning. For example, in a kolomikt older than 8 years, annually one old branch is cut off and replaced with a young shoot. Kolomikt in the form of a bush does not bear fruit well and needs trellises. In argut, the main liana serves all its life, but it needs to be thinned out more intensively and cut shorter (short shoots bear fruit), etc.

Pruning of young actinidia is associated with the formation of the plant. When deciding where to plant actinidia, you should consider how it will grow. For kolomikt, the fan formation is most common:

• the first year - cut off the aerial part, leaving 2 - 3 buds;
• the second year - all shoots are cut, except for 2 - 4 vertical ones (sleeves). After the end of leaf fall, their apical buds are cut off;
• the third year - the strongest side shoots are selected and tied to the left and right trellises;
• fourth and fifth years - further garter of the strongest and most fruitful branches, pruning of weak, thin, broken and non-fruitful branches.

For adult plants (starting from the age of 8), rejuvenating pruning can be carried out every three to four years - the vine is cut to a stump level of 30 - 40 cm. Annual pruning - shortening by one third of the length of the shoots, cutting off extra branches.

Winter hardiness actinidia

Actinidia varieties grown in our latitudes have a fairly high frost resistance (colomikta can tolerate frost down to -35 ... -45 degrees ° C). For the first 2 - 3 years of life, young plants for the winter are best covered with a pillow of leaves, spruce branches or polyethylene.

It is not low temperatures in winter that pose a great danger to vines, but spring frosts (young actinidia sprouts, flower buds and buds are most sensitive to them). Lowering the temperature below zero by 8 degrees can kill a young shoot.

Planting actinidia near a residential building partially neutralizes the danger of frost, but there may be a problem from the runoff of rainwater from the roof.

Harvest and storage

Actinidia bears the first fruits after reaching the age of three to four years. Plants of seven years of age and older bear fruit regularly (one actinidia can produce from 12 to 60 kg of yield). Collection begins at the end of August and continues until frost.

The ripening period of berries of different varieties of actinidia is not the same:

• kolomikta- in mid-August (fruits ripen unevenly and some of them may fall to the ground). Green fruits can ripen in warmth after removal from the vine. For transportation and storage, it is better to pick slightly greenish berries;

• argument and giralda - the beginning of September (acquire a bright green color and tender flesh);

• polygamist- September (color of berries - from yellow to orange);

• purple- the end of September (the berries do not crumble, purple).

Fresh fruits are best stored in cool rooms with good ventilation (strongly absorb odors).

Did you know? One actinidia berry provides a person's need for vitamin C per day. The kolomikta berry contains 4 times more vitamin C than black currant and 13 times more than lemon. When processing actinidia berries, all vitamins and active substances are preserved. Pectin in actinidia berries actively removes heavy metal salts and radioactive isotopes from the body.

Actinidia berries are stored:

• frozen (wash berries, wipe and freeze);
• dried (wash and dry in the oven (55 degrees);
• as raw jam (ground berries with sugar - 2 to 3);
• dried (washed berries are poured with hot syrup, heated for 7 minutes, the syrup is drained, the berries are dried in the oven for 15 minutes at 80 degrees.

Reproduction of actinidia

Actinidia reproduces quite simply. Vegetative propagation has advantages - it conveys the characteristics of the variety, gender, fruiting in the 3rd - 4th year. Seed propagation makes it possible to obtain more hardy plants, but fruiting - from the age of 7.

Root offspring

Reproduction by root offspring is used for actinidia polygamum and kolomikta.

Did you know? Arguta cannot be propagated by root offspring - this variety does not have root offspring.

Green and woody cuttings

Description of the methods of vegetative propagation of actinidia, we must begin with the fastest and most common - cuttings. This method allows you to inherit varietal characteristics and get a lot of seedlings. Two options are used - green and lignified cuttings.

Green cuttings (the upper part of the shoot from 10 to 15 cm) are stocked in late May - early June (when flowering ends): a cutting with two to three buds and internodes. The lower cut of the cutting should have 45 °, the upper one should be straight. Shank:

• planted for rooting in a planting pit with a substrate (drainage, 10 cm of a mixture of humus with sand and 5 cm of river sand), kept under a film, sprayed twice a day;
• after 30 days they begin to ventilate, from August they open for the night;
• for the winter they cover with a pillow of leaves, in the spring they transplant.

Lignified cuttings (length - 20 cm) are harvested in autumn and kept in bunches in the sand until spring (in an upright position), after which they are planted in a greenhouse. The rooting rate of such cuttings is lower than that of green ones.

To increase this indicator, the kilchevaniye method is used (a month before planting, the cuttings are placed on ice with their upper ends and closed - the development of the kidneys stops. The lower parts are warm. After 30 days, roots appear, then the cuttings are planted in open ground).

The division of the bushes

The division of bushes is rarely used in household plots as a method of propagating actinidia, but if there is a bushy plant on the site (it grows on poor soils, it has suffered from frost, without support, etc.). The bush is divided after leaf fall until frost or in early spring before the juices begin to move. Each part of the divided bush should bear stems and roots at the same time.

Reproduction by taps

The method of propagation by layering is simple and effective. Grooves are dug under the liana (7-10 cm deep), the soil in the grooves is mulched with humus, peat, sawdust.

Caring for actinidia during propagation by offshoots in the spring includes laying the lower young shoots in the grooves, fixing them, falling asleep with soil and regular watering. The tip of the shoot remains above the ground. Layers are separated for the next year.

Reproduction by seeds

Actinidia from seeds germinate difficult. Therefore, in order to somehow speed up this process, the stratification method is used:

Actinidia is a woody vine, which is distinguished by the special taste of fruits, in which there is a high content of ascorbic acid. Actinidia is unpretentious in planting and care, it is distinguished by longevity. Culture can bear fruit up to 40 years.

Liana can climb to great heights along the supports. The plant is dioecious, shade-tolerant, winter-hardy. Leaves are leathery, finely toothed. The culture should be grown on moist loamy soil; actinidia feels bad in dry places. The fruits of the culture are greenish, the seeds are small. Actinidia fruits contain a large amount of vitamin C, much more than in lemon. Often the remedy is used as a laxative, antiscorbutic, antihelminthic.

Important! One berry contains the daily requirement of vitamin C.

The kolomikta berry contains 4 times more vitamin C than black currant and 13 times more than lemon. After processing, the berries do not lose their beneficial properties.

The fruits contain pectin, which allows you to remove salts of heavy metals from the body, as well as radioactive isotopes.

Varieties of actinidia

In the temperate zone with cool summers and cold winters, garden crop varieties can take root perfectly:

• Argut;
• Purple;
• Polygam;
• Kolomikta.

Planting actinidia seedlings

Creepers prefer warm and bright places with breathable and loose soil, but can grow in semi-darkness. The roots are located at a depth of 20-40 centimeters. Actinidia does not like stagnant water and dry air.

Optimal landing time

Favorable cultivation of a crop depends on the time of planting. There is no optimal time for planting a crop. There are several possible cultivation options:

• Early spring period, before the juices began to move;
• Spring, end of April - beginning of May, after, after the end of flowering;
• Autumn, about two to three weeks before the start of frost.

Soil composition

The culture can grow in acidic or slightly acidic soils. The acidity level should be between 4 - 5. They can grow in neutral soils, but with a good level of fertilizer. The liana grows poorly on clay soils, where the level of groundwater is high. In order for the plant to feel comfortable, drainage is necessary. It is worth choosing elevated areas with natural runoff for planting.

Before planting actinidia, you need to prepare a landing pit. This should be done about two or three weeks before planting. If we are talking about decorating walls, then you need to prepare trenches. For pits, length, width, depth of 0.5 meters are selected. The length of the trenches depends on the length of the wall.

Soil layers are laid out in the planting pit in the following sequence:

1. Drainage, you can use brick chips, pebbles.
2. Enriched soil is laid on top of the drainage. Humus is often used (one bucket is enough), charcoal (50 grams), superphosphate (250 grams).
3. Next, add regular soil.

Good predecessors and neighbors of actinidia

The most favorable neighbor for culture is. Currant bushes loosen the soil well and do not deplete it. In addition, the beneficial effects are provided by:

• legumes;
• aster;
• calendula;
• gerbera.

Legumes do not disturb the water balance of the soil, and the flowers do not dry out and act as decoration.

You should not plant a crop next to fruit trees, as they have a developed root system and dry out the soil. It is dangerous to dig up the near-stem circle, as the root system of actinidia can be disturbed.

Correct fit

Before planting, seedlings must be prepared:

• cut dry, damaged shoots;
• the root system must be dipped in a clay mash;
• pour a bucket of water into the planting hole.

It is important to ensure that voids do not form. The root neck must be installed flush with the ground. Next, the soil is slightly compacted and mulched with organic matter.

Important!!! In order for the plant to bear fruit favorably, for every 3 female seedlings, there must be 1 male plant.

The distance between seedlings should be at least 0.5 meters. If planting plants occurs in one row, then a distance of 2-2.5 meters should be maintained between plants.

After planting, the seedlings must be watered abundantly (about 2-3 buckets). Then cover with paper or gauze so that the direct rays of the sun do not fall.

It is important to determine where are the male and where are the female plants. You can do this with flowers. If the flower has a white ovary with stigma-rays, then this is a female flowering. If there are many stamens around the ovary - the male type.

Watch the video! How to plant actinidia. Actinidia Care

Actinidia care basics

To install the tapestries, several poles about 2 meters high should be dug. It is necessary to dig in the pillars at a distance of 2 meters from each other. Wire or insulated wires should be stretched between the poles. The support should be directed from east to west.

Seedlings should be planted on the south side. A vine on supports is formed in the form of a comb or a fan. Actinidia branches should begin to wrap around the supports, as they reach a length of 50-250 centimeters.

Plant roots are close to the soil surface. Seedlings should be irrigated in sufficient quantities throughout the growing season.

Important! Cuttings that have been recently planted should not be transplanted to another place for about two years. This can be done as soon as the root system gets stronger.

Watering and fertilizing the soil

Water the culture should be moderate. It is important to constantly monitor the level of soil moisture. The foliage of plants should be sprayed in the morning and evening hours. Fertilizers should be selected based on the preferences of seedlings (slightly acidic and acidic soils). Recommended to use:

• Ammonium sulfate;
• ammonium nitrate;
• Wood ash.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to use fertilizers that contain chlorine, for example, fresh manure or lime.

Before fertilizing in the spring, you should loosen the soil a little near the roots (about 5 centimeters). You can not dig - you can damage the roots.

How to cut

Proper plant care includes constant pruning. Young vines need proper formation. Before planting, you should correctly choose a landing site so that it is convenient to trim. The growth of the vine can lead to thickening, darkening, thereby reducing the yield. Before pruning, it is important to consider:

• The optimal time for the procedure is the summer period, after flowering;
• In autumn, a month before the onset of frost, it is impossible to prune, as the awakened buds and young shoots will not ripen and freeze.

In the southern regions, pruning should be carried out as soon as leaf fall ends.

It is impossible to cut the plant in early spring, as sap flow through the plant begins. This can lead to a violation of the shoots of the seedling, as well as its death.

Important! When pruning, the individual characteristics of the actinidia variety should be taken into account.

So, for example, at Kolomikt, which is more than 8 years old, every year you need to cut one branch to replace it with a young shoot. In addition, the variety needs props and does not yield well on short shoots.

At actinidia varieties Argut the main vine can last a lifetime. It needs to be thinned out more intensively and cut shorter (short shoots bear fruit).

For kolomikta gardeners use fan formation:

• In the first year, the aerial part is cut off, 2-3 buds are left;
• In the second year, all shoots are removed, leaving only 2-4 vertical sleeves;
• After the leaf fall ends, it is necessary to cut off all the apical buds;
• In the third year, the strongest side shoots should be selected and fixed to the left and right trellises;
• The fourth and fifth years include tying up strong fruit-bearing branches, removing thin and weak branches.

Every three to four years, adult plants (from 8 years old) need anti-aging pruning. It is necessary to cut the vine to the level of a stump of 40 centimeters. Annually it is necessary to cut the shoots by a third, remove excess branches.

Watch the video! pruning actinidia

Winter hardiness of actinidia (shelter for the winter)

Many varieties of crops are frost-resistant. Kolomikt can withstand temperatures up to -35 ... -45 degrees ° C. Therefore, the culture will feel comfortable in Siberia, on the Ural and Moscow region. The first two or three years of life, seedlings should be covered with leaves, spruce branches or other covering material. Often, the danger to plants is not winter frosts, but spring ones. If the plant turned out to be unprotected in the spring at -8 degrees, then young shoots may die.

Harvest and storage

The plant gives the first fruits as soon as it reaches 3-4 years of age. Creepers from 7 years old bear fruit regularly. From one bush you can collect 12-60 kilograms of fruit. It is necessary to harvest at the end of August and you can do it until frost.

Ripened fruits must be properly harvested. Ripe fruits are greenish in color and almost transparent. They should be collected on the canvas, slightly shaking the plant. Store fresh fruit in a cool, well-ventilated area.

What is the best way to store fruit?

• Frozen;
• Dried (dry in the oven at a temperature of 55 degrees);
• Dried (rinse the berries, pour over the syrup, warm for 7 minutes, drain the syrup. Then dry in the oven at 80 degrees for 15 minutes).

Reproduction of actinidia

Propagating the culture is easy. Vegetative propagation has advantages: the traits of the variety, the sex of the plant are transmitted, fruiting will begin in 3-4 years.

Reproduction by seeds will make it possible to obtain hardy vines, but they will begin to bear fruit at the age of 7 years.

The cutting method is also used. In order to get a process, you need to bend the upper part of the vine and fix it in the groove with wooden hooks. Then sprinkle with soil 4-6 centimeters. The top should be 6-10 centimeters above the ground. In autumn, the cuttings should be separated from the plant and transplanted.

Seeds should be sown in boxes or beds in September to a depth of 1 centimeter. After 2-3 leaves appear on the seedlings, they must be dived and transplanted to another place.

A place for planting cuttings should be chosen a little darkened. The pit should be 60 centimeters deep and 100 centimeters in diameter. A layer of broken brick (10 centimeters) is laid at the bottom of the pit, then black soil is added with the addition of humus (about 1.5-2 buckets).

Diseases and pests of actinidia

The culture is almost not susceptible to diseases and pests. Sometimes actinidia can be affected by leaf spot and gray fruit rot.

Around July-August, rounded brown spots may appear. At first, the circles are limited by leaf veins, and then merge, acquiring a dark brown color. This disease is called phyllosticosis. As a control measure, it is recommended to remove the affected leaves.

Young shoots that are at the bottom can be destroyed by cats. In order to save the plants, a metal mesh barrier should be created.

Conclusion

It is not difficult to grow a crop in open ground. It is important to observe all stages of agricultural technology. Beginners may have questions about how plant and realize actinidia care. In order to avoid mistakes, it is recommended to look at a photo and video instructions, read