Bathtub refurbishment. To repair the chipped enamel coating of bathtubs - let's do it right. Compositions for the "bulk bath"

- a durable, wear-resistant and impact-resistant sanitary ware that has been used as a washing container for hundreds of years. In the past, bowls made from this difficult-to-machine heavy alloy have had no viable alternative. But even now, when hardware stores are full of more modern and diverse steel and acrylic models, they continue to be in demand.

The popularity of the cast-iron bath is due to the fact that despite the rather high cost, it has a long service life and maintainability. After 10-15 years of operation, when the enamel turns yellow or cracks, in order to restore the original appearance of the product with your own hands, it is enough to cover the bowl with a new layer of paint.

Features of cast iron baths

Cast iron bathtubs are considered the most popular, as they have a long service life, wear and impact resistance, and also do not require special care. These sanitary products are produced by casting.

Cast iron is a material that is very difficult to process, because for all its hardness and high weight, it has increased brittleness. The greatest difficulty is giving the alloy a rounded, curved shape, so the size and model range of bowls from it is not so diverse. The advantages of a cast iron bath are:

wear resistance. Cast iron wash basins can withstand more than 50 years of intensive use without compromising the strength of the product. The enamel fails a little earlier, however, if you repair the bathtub with your own in time, you can completely restore the appearance of the coating.
Low noise. The thickness of the walls of the cast-iron bath reaches 8 mm, so they have a low resonating ability. Therefore, when collecting water, there is no strong noise, unlike steel models.
Maintainability. Cast iron bath enamel, generated during operation, can be restored with your own hands. Repairs are done by enameling, pouring with acrylic or installing an acrylic liner.
slow cooling. Cast iron is characterized by a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, due to which the water collected in the bath of this alloy retains heat for a long time.

Important! Modern models of cast iron washing containers are enameled by electrostatic method. Under production conditions, powder paint is applied to the bath, which is melted under the influence of high temperature and then baked. High-quality factory enamel lasts for at least 10 years, if you follow the recommendations for the care and use of the product. When chips appear on the old coating, you can repair the enamel with your own hands.

Enamel damage

Enamel applied to the surface of a cast-iron bath in the factory is considered to be sufficiently wear-resistant and reliable; after 10-15 years of use, even if all the manufacturer's recommendations are followed, it will lose its original appearance.

To restore the top coating, you can repair the bowl yourself by applying new paint. Over time, the following defects appear on the inner surface of the bath:

Note! If minor defects appear on the surface of the enamel coating, then it is better to immediately perform an inexpensive but effective repair - enameling the bath at home. Timely restoration allows you to delay a more global method of restoration using an acrylic liner.

enamel technology

The technology of enameling a cast-iron bath at home differs from the factory one, since special equipment is used in production. Covering the inner surface of a sanitary bowl consists of 4 main stages: preparing the container, mixing the compound, applying paint and drying.

Each of these processes is important, the stability and durability of the result depends on the correctness of the operations. To make repairs to the bath cover with your own hands, you must:

Please note that the repair of the bowl is best done using a special enamel designed to restore bathtubs. Some painters recommend using cheaper paint for yachts and sailboats, however, it will not last as long.

Technology features

Do-it-yourself enameling repair of a cast-iron bathtub is a simple and effective way to restore the appearance of the product. With minimal financial investment, it allows you to refuse to replace the old washing container, reducing the cost of repairing the bathroom.

This operation can be successfully performed with your own hands, if you follow the technology of applying enamel. Enamel technology at home has the following features:

Experienced craftsmen claim that this method of restoring a cast-iron bath has only 1 drawback - the drying time. However, this small minus is offset by an inexpensive price, ease of application and durability of the result.

Video instruction

With proper care, the acrylic bowl will last for decades, but sooner or later the coating still loses its gloss and whiteness. You can repair an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, it is enough to know about the different ways to restore gloss, their real effectiveness and work technique. About everything in order.

How to fix hull damage

Acrylic bathtubs have extremely low resistance to mechanical damage. If the need for repair is caused by damage to the bowl from an accidentally dropped object, the integrity of the base should be restored before restoring the coating. Note that the following steps are only necessary if the fiberglass layer is damaged, chipped or delaminated. If the base has retained its integrity, you can use the usual repair kit.

So, first of all, remove all the broken fragments and carefully inspect the edges of the hole. You need to make sure that there are no stratified scales along the edges. Otherwise, it may be necessary to remove exfoliated layers, it is better to tear off fragments from the outside.

To repair the base, a glass mat with a density of 200 g/m 2 or more is required. If you are not sure about the presence of impregnation between the glass fibers, it is better to burn the glass mat flaps in the flame of a gas burner. The binder is a two-component epoxy adhesive, a budget EAF will be enough.

The essence of the repair is the imposition of 5-7 layers of fiberglass on a cleaned and degreased surface around the breakdown site. First, with a brush, glue is applied to the edges of the hole with an indent of 3-4 cm, then a glass mat flap is laid and carefully smoothed, the size of which is 2-3 cm larger than the hole in each direction.

Each subsequent patch is glued after partial polymerization of the resin in the previous layer. To speed up the process, it is recommended to increase the concentration of the hardener by 2-2.5 times, so the break between the application of patches will be about 15-20 minutes. The dimensions of each subsequent patch should be 3-4 cm larger than the previous one. The bath will be ready for further work after the complete polymerization of the resin, that is, the next day. Before the restoration of the coating, the breakdown site is leveled with the composition of a standard acrylic repair kit and polished flush with the common surface.

Is simple painting possible?

There are only two options to restore the gloss and whiteness of the acrylic coating. The simplest is spray-type epoxy paint marked Ceramics. This method has the right to life, especially given the high cost of bulk acrylic and the complexity of its application.

The main disadvantage of painting is the inability of a thin layer to hide surface defects. The bath will have to be sanded for a long and tedious time, gradually increasing the grain index and removing large scratches and chips. Naturally, the thickness of the acrylic layer should allow this - cheap bathtubs have a polymer coating of about 0.5-0.7 mm and it is most likely impossible to restore them by painting.

Otherwise, everything is simple: the entire surface is cleaned to remove the gloss, then wiped with acetone to degrease. Next, paint is sprayed from a distance of 40-45 cm in one or two thin layers with an interval of 20-30 minutes. When spraying, the formation of streaks should not be allowed, if they nevertheless appear, they must be blotted with a clean foam rubber sponge and painted over again. You need to work exclusively in a respirator and exclude the occurrence of an open flame in the room.

One aerosol can is enough for 1.8-2 m 2 of surface. However, when calculating the consumption, the paint should be taken with a margin of about 50%. Firstly, you will somehow be forced to eliminate errors and defects in painting, and secondly, you will have a “repair kit” with no difference in color.

How Liquid Acrylic Works

In short, the acrylic polymer is still the same epoxy resin tinted in white. A feature of the material is its high adhesion, including to glossy surfaces. Despite this, the preparation for the restoration must be very thorough.

First of all, the regime of temperature and humidity is important. The drier the air in the room, the better, and the presence of splashes or drops must be completely excluded. The optimum temperature for applying acrylic is 25 ºС. It is under this temperature regime that the epoxy composition acquires the most optimal viscosity for application without a brush.

The difference in fluidity with a temperature change of even a few degrees can be very significant. At 28-30 ºС the layer will be too thin, and at temperatures below 23 ºС normal polymerization will not occur and the coating will not acquire the required qualities. Naturally, the bath and the air in the room should have the same temperature.

Bulk acrylic loses stickiness after 4-6 hours and completely polymerizes after two days. Up to this point, it is necessary to maintain the optimum temperature in the room, and in the first hours after application - in any convenient way to prevent dust settling.

Surface preparation for restoration

From the surface of the bowl, in any case, you need to knock down the gloss. This is done by manual grinding using waterproof sandpaper. Start with 200 grit, then increase by 100-150 grit every 2-3 steps. Grinding ends with 600 grit processing, after such processing the coating acquires a matte whiteness and is practically free of defects. With each increase in granularity, the bath must be rinsed with water, getting rid of larger abrasive particles.

At the next stage, the largest surface defects, chips and scratches are eliminated. For this, you can use both a hard-plastic automotive putty and a repair kit for acrylic bathtubs. The latter is more preferable in the case when it is planned to restore the gloss and color by polishing, and not by pouring a new coating. In this case, the difference in whiteness will definitely be visible, although not very much.

After sealing defects on the surface, these places are subjected to repeated cleaning until the surface is leveled. Before continuing work, the bathtub must be washed with plenty of warm water, completely washing off the white dust, and then dismantling the plumbing and removing the remnants of contaminants in places previously covered with drain nets.

Cleaning and degreasing

To restore an acrylic bath, special kits are sold, including 30-50 grams of a one-component polymer, abrasive materials and polishing paste. Particularly noteworthy is the cleaner and primer in the sets of self-leveling acrylic. The latter must be applied immediately before pouring the polymer, but it makes sense to use a cleaner only if you have not resorted to grinding.

Acetone or thinner 646 can be used to degrease the surface. Petroleum-based products are not worth taking, they are not very friendly to acrylate polymers. Remember that the surface must be absolutely clean and dry before applying the coating.

Polymer application

Before pouring a new coating, it must first be prepared. The resin is mixed with a hardener in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. It is recommended to add approximately 80-90% of the recommended amount of hardener to maintain fluidity for a longer time. So it will be possible to distribute the composition as evenly as possible without using a brush.

It is only necessary to mix the polymer manually, the use of a drill or mixer will lead to the involvement of numerous air bubbles in the liquid mass. Liquid acrylic should be diluted immediately and in full, using a clean, dry container. After that, the composition is poured into another container of the same volume, this is done to avoid areas with uneven mixing in the corners and near the walls.

An empty container is placed under the drain hole of the bath, from another acrylic is poured in a thin strip along the sides. It is recommended to first disperse the composition with a brush with natural bristles and moisten the sides with lapels well to prevent the expensive epoxy from pouring out. Subsequently, it will be enough to pour the composition on the innermost edge, achieving the most uniform spreading along the walls.

When the entire composition is spilled, you need to wait 15-20 minutes and collect the remains of the polymer that has drained through the drain hole, substituting an empty container. A new portion of the polymer is poured over the sides in those places where the layer is not thick enough and there are gaps. The procedure must be repeated until the resin stops flowing. In parallel, you need to monitor the places where uneven thick streaks can potentially form.

No matter how hard you try, you will not get a perfectly smooth factory-quality coating. To improve the result, you can lightly burn the still fresh polymer with a gas burner flame immediately after all the acrylic has been poured onto the surface. Sharp heating helps to get rid of the remnants of entrained gases and smooth the surface as efficiently as possible.

After drying, the bath will still need polishing, but not so time-consuming. Polishing paste should be applied in small portions and rubbed over the surface with a fiber cloth. Polishing is carried out with wide circular movements, periodically a fresh portion of the paste should be added to the napkin.

As you can see, repairing an acrylic bathtub is not an easy task, but it is definitely easier and cheaper than installing a new bowl or liner.

A cast iron bath is fundamental, strong and durable. Unfortunately, the service life of the enamel coating is much less than the bath itself as a whole. Replacing such monolithic equipment is associated with many problems, so often the owners decide to update the cast-iron bath. This process allows you to repair the damaged enamel coating and return the bath to its former attractive appearance.

Consider the methods and technologies used for the restoration of bathtubs.

Restoration of cast-iron baths by applying a new enamel coating allows you to do the work yourself, since this does not require special skills and experience. In addition to the possibility of self-restoration, the use of enamel compositions has the following advantages:

The cheapest option for updating coverage.
Suitable for steel and cast iron products.
Dismantling of drain and overflow is not required.

The disadvantages of this method include the toxicity of the compounds: it is recommended to work in a respirator. Re-enamelling has a short service life - about 5 years, while the coating is sensitive to impacts and prone to yellowing. In addition, the paint is not able to fill large shells or chips of old enamel.

Note! Enamels for baths are available in two types. The composition for professional use has a liquid consistency and is applied in 3-5 layers. Enamels for domestic use are thicker and applied in two layers, they are suitable for self-application at home.

The set for restoration by applying a new enamel includes two products: a primer and enamel with a hardener. All components are supplied in separate containers, the capacity of which is calculated for the repair of one bathtub.

In fact, the enameling of an old bathtub is a simple staining with a special composition. The procedure and technology for performing enamel restoration is as follows.

Training

In order for the paint to have sufficient adhesion with the old coating, the inner surface of the bath is cleaned with fine sandpaper. This roughens the surface and removes dirt and grease at the same time. The dust formed during the grinding process is removed from the bowl with a vacuum cleaner. At the same time, it is recommended to leave the body of the vacuum cleaner with the motor behind the door so that the flow of outgoing air does not raise dust.

Advice! After grinding the bath and removing debris, a break is made for 20–30 minutes so that the dust particles finally settle, after which the bath is washed with water and wiped dry with a napkin.

After the dust settles, the bath is rinsed with water.

Padding

The next step is to apply a primer. Before this masking tape, the drain and overflow holes are carefully pasted over, and the lining along the edge of the bath is also protected.

Then a hardener is added to the mixed primer and the composition is thoroughly mixed.

Note! At room temperature, the life of the primer mixed with the hardener is 45 minutes, during which time you need to have time to completely prime the bath.

Part of the primer is poured onto the bottom of the bath, after which it is rolled evenly over the entire bowl with a roller. When developing the poured composition, more is poured. The primer is applied in a thin layer so that there are no streaks and gaps. If necessary, while the primer is mobile, you can go through the second pass. Upon completion of priming, the protective masking tape is immediately removed so that it does not stick.

To paint the bath with enamel, they start after 12-24 hours (depending on the air temperature and the manufacturer's recommendations).

Before applying the enamel coating, the following activities are carried out:

The primed surface is polished with fine sandpaper.
Grinding dust is removed.
The bath is washed with water and wiped dry with a rag.
Drain holes and edges of the cladding are sealed with adhesive tape.

The enamel is then mixed with a hardener. The pot life of the composition is also 45 minutes. Painting is carried out according to a similar scheme: the enamel is poured onto the bottom of the bath, after which it is rolled out with a roller over the entire surface in a thin layer, without gaps and sagging. After staining, the protective tape is immediately removed.

You can use the updated bathroom no earlier than indicated by the manufacturer (from 3 to 7 days). If you use the bath before the specified period, this will negatively affect the quality and strength of the enamel layer. After the enamel has dried, the bathtub is wiped with a soft, soapy cloth, and then washed with water.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

Restoration of a cast-iron bath using liquid acrylic is sometimes called the “filling” method, according to the technology of applying the material. The advantages of this option include:

Acrylic forms a thick, even and durable surface that hides any defects of the old bath well.
No smell during work.
The resistance of the coating to mechanical stress (within reason) and chemical cleaners.
The surface is smooth and pleasant to the touch, easy to clean.
Duration of operation - 10 years or more.

Of the disadvantages of restoring a bathtub by the bulk method, they note the high cost of high-quality material, a long drying period (at least 72 hours), the need to protect the coating from dust during the drying process. Despite the apparent simplicity of application, it is recommended to entrust this renewal method to professionals, since without proper experience, the coating can be damaged.

Training

Stages of preparation:

Note! If the siphon is not removed during the pouring of acrylic, the overflow is wrapped with adhesive tape, and the drain hole is closed with a plastic cup with a sealant applied to the bottom. If the siphon has been removed, a plastic bottle or other container cut in height is placed under the drain hole, into which acrylic will drain.

Preparation and application of acrylic

When all the preparatory work has been completed, the acrylic base is mixed with a hardener. Mixing is recommended to be done manually, with a wooden spatula or other convenient device. The mixture is thoroughly mixed, then a break is made for 15 minutes to activate the properties of the hardener, after which the composition is thoroughly mixed again. If you want to get a color coating, a special color is introduced into the composition.

Advice! While the prepared acrylic mixture is settling, the bathtub is wiped with a dry rag to exclude even the smallest drops of water on the surface.

The order of filling is as follows:

The finished mixture is collected in a small container and gradually poured along the edges of the bath. You should start from the far corner.
Slowly draining, the composition will evenly cover all the walls of the bath.
At the bottom of the bowl, you should get the thickest layer - about 5 mm. A spatula is used to evenly distribute the mixture along the bottom and walls.
When the mixture is evenly distributed, use a flashlight to check that there are no gaps.
The final touch is the removal of drips from the edge of the bath.

After 2 days, protective films and adhesive tape are removed, a siphon is installed (if it was dismantled). The glass that closes the drain is simply crushed and carefully removed from the hole. You can use the bathroom no earlier than 72 hours after the completion of the acrylic pouring.

Repair with acrylic liner

Another way to repair an old coating is to insert an acrylic liner. This method is performed by professionals and involves the purchase of a thin acrylic insert that matches the size of the tub in shape. The advantages of this option are:

Quick work: about 2 hours.
You can use the bathroom after 24 hours.
The acrylic insert is perfectly smooth and even, does not turn yellow during operation, and is easy to clean.
Complete concealment of any defects, including those on the sides of the bathtub.
With proper installation, the service life of a new bathtub is up to 15 years.

The disadvantages of using an acrylic insert include the exactingness of installation and the correct selection of the liner. If the work is done poorly, and the insert does not match the dimensions of the bath, then this design will not last long. In addition, the liner is very thin, not designed for high loads and impacts.

Note! To install the liner, you will need to release all the sides of the bath. If they are embedded in the lining, it will need to be dismantled.

First of all, the sides of the bathtub are freed from the lining.

After that, the old siphon is removed. If a cast-iron sewer is installed, you will have to work as a grinder.

The siphon is removed so that the drain holes are free.

After dismantling, all construction debris is removed, the bathtub is washed and wiped dry.

The next step is to prepare the acrylic liner:

The grinder cuts off the technological edge.
Holes for drain and overflow are drilled with a crown.

Then a new siphon is assembled and installed, but the drain and overflow flanges are not screwed on, and silicone sealant is applied in a thick layer around the holes.

Immediately after that, polyurethane foam is applied in strips over the entire area of the bath, which acts as an adhesive and filler of the space between the liner and the old bath.

Then an insert is inserted, which is pressed along the sides and bottom. The drain and overflow grilles are screwed on.

Note! Upon completion of the installation, the bathtub is filled with cold water to load the liner and it adheres well.

After filling the bath, you can close the connection to the wall with a plastic corner or a border glued to silicone. You can use the bathroom in a day.

We looked at various options for repairing an old cast iron bath cover. In order for the new bathtub to last a long time, you need to choose high-quality materials and take care of the updated coating.

Any, even the most reliable and high-quality bath, over time, can become covered with cracks and roughness, turn yellow or rust. It is almost impossible to avoid this - even the mildest detergents and household chemicals lead to thinning and wear of the surface coating. In this case, the owner of the bath is faced with the question of buying and installing a new bowl. However, this is a rather expensive solution, which, moreover, entails the need for repairs in the room. Therefore, it is better to restore the bath - it will not require large expenses, and the work can be done independently.

There are three main methods to restore the appearance of old plumbing: applying a new enamel coating, restoration with self-leveling acrylic and using a special liner. It is better to choose a specific method, taking into account your own financial capabilities, the materials from which the bowl is made, as well as its condition.

In addition, it should be taken into account that such a solution has a number of disadvantages, since a bowl with a new coating will not have the same performance characteristics as that which was manufactured in an industrial environment.

The materials that are used for the restoration of plumbing are less durable and not as strong, so the surface requires more careful and gentle care.
When enameling a bathtub or restoring it with liquid acrylic, you may encounter the following problem: the original color of the bowl will show through the new coating (especially if the layer is too thin), changing its shade.
During use and cleaning, the color of the bath may change under the influence of chemicals.
Sharp or bulky objects will cause damage to the new coating even if they fall from a small height, and dyes (such as hair dyes) can leave indelible stains.
Those who like to smoke in the bathroom will have to give up their habit, as a cigarette can leave an ugly burn on the surface.

However, at the same time, the restored plumbing is maintainable, and its properties directly depend on the quality of the materials and the accuracy of the work.

Despite the growing popularity of modern polymer compositions, enamel-coated steel and cast-iron plumbing is often found in modern homes and apartments. Metal is a strong and reliable material, but the enamel coating wears out quickly enough. Restoring an enamel coating is a fairly simple process that does not require special knowledge or skills.

True, this method of restoring the appearance of bathtubs has one significant drawback. Cracks that appear on the surface grow very quickly, the enamel begins to peel off, water accumulates under it, which leads to the appearance of an unpleasant odor, dampness and mold. In addition, this method is not suitable for bathtubs with a large number of small defects - they can be noticeable even after coating.

How to choose a composition for enamel restoration?

In order for the new coating to be strong and reliable, you need to choose a composition for the restoration of bathtubs. There are not many options, so for the right choice you need to know the main characteristics and properties of the compositions.

Manufacturer	Coating durability	Features of work
Russia, Germany	On average 5 years (subject to the conditions of application and operation, the indicator can reach 7-9 years)	Two-component enamel with a hardener that completely cures in 48 hours. Well fills all small defects in the surface of the bath. It is quite difficult to work with the solution, as it is very thick and “seizes” in about 60 minutes
Russia	6-8 years old	Two-component epoxy resin mortar. It can be used when there are no noticeable defects and damages on the bathroom. Requires fast work, as it hardens in about 70 minutes. In liquid form, it is toxic and can cause allergies.
Tikkurila Company (Russia, Finland)	10-15 years old	One of the highest quality, but expensive compositions for the restoration of plumbing. Working with the solution is quite simple, but it will be possible to use the bath for its intended purpose in at least a week
Random House Company, Russia	6-8 years old	Bathtub refurbishment kits, which include a two-component bowl coating, hardener and surface preparation

reflex 50

Step-by-step instructions for the restoration of the bath with enamel

Stage one. Preparation of improvised means and materials

To enamel bathtubs, you will need the following tools:

The enamel that will be used to restore the bathtub must come with all the necessary components. To give the coating the desired shade, you can purchase a special tinting paste (if not prohibited by the manufacturer). In addition, it is very important to protect your mouth and nose with a respirator, your hands with gloves, and all work should be carried out only in a well-ventilated or ventilated area.

Stage two. Enamel preparation

Before proceeding with the enameling of the bowl, you need to thoroughly clean the surface, since the quality and aesthetic appearance of the coating depend on this.

Step, No.	Description
	Sprinkle the bath with an abrasive agent and clean it with coarse sandpaper. You can also use the grinding nozzle of an electric drill, as well as remove old enamel by sandblasting or hydrochloric acid diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 4.
	Treat areas with rust spots with a rust converter, wait 30 minutes and sand well. If there are deep cracks or chips on the surface, it is better to use automotive putty - there is a risk that the composition will not be able to fill them, and the enamel layer will turn out to be uneven
	Remove the remnants of the old coating and wipe the bath well using a rag or lint-free cloth.
	Fill the bowl with hot water, leave it for 10 minutes to warm the surface, drain the liquid and dry the surface. Make sure the tub is free of crumbs, fluff, or debris.

The preparation of the bath must be carried out in exactly this sequence, without missing a single step, otherwise the enamel will quickly come off. The most clean, smooth surface of the bath is a guarantee that the new coating will be durable and reliable.

Stage three. Enamel coating

Combine all the components of the enamel as indicated in the instructions, mix the composition well. Divide it into two parts - for the base and finish coat. Apply the first layer with a wide brush - it should be thin, but as even as possible, without drops. It is better to start from the edges of the bowl, gradually moving down. The composition must be very well smeared so that it fills all the pores of the material. After applying the first layer, you need to leave it for 10-15 minutes, but you should not wait for complete drying, otherwise the enamel may become dusty, and then the work will be spoiled. Then apply a second layer with the same brush, the direction of the strokes is from the middle to the edges. Leave the bath for another 15 minutes and eliminate defects (even experienced craftsmen have them), using the brush in the same way. You can perform this procedure until the enamel becomes too viscous.

Sometimes spray containers are used to apply the mixture, but experts recommend avoiding this method, as bubbles and streaks may appear on the surface, causing the enamel to peel off. Instead of a spray gun, it is better to use a compressor - it will allow you to evenly distribute the composition along the walls of the bath and create a coating of the same thickness.

It is better not to use the bath for a week - that is how much is needed for the enamel to completely harden. The temperature in the room should be maintained at 23 degrees.

Video - bathroom restoration by enameling

Method number 2. Bulk bath

This method of restoring plumbing consists in the following: liquid acrylic is poured into the bowl, which subsequently hardens and forms a new coating. Compared to the surface enameling described above, it has a number of advantages.

Acrylic is a thick and viscous substance, thanks to which it lies on the surface in a thick, even layer, hiding all the defects and irregularities of the bath.
The composition does not leave smudges, stripes and bubbles on the surface.
To restore the bath, you do not need to remove the tiles or dismantle the bowl.
The process takes less time than enameling or restoring with an inlay.
Acrylic creates a film on the surface that repels dirt and plaque.
Application of the mixture does not require special knowledge and skills.
Most of the materials that are used for the restoration of bathtubs have practically no unpleasant odor.

The result of this restoration method will be a smooth, glossy surface that perfectly retains heat and does not retain dirt. As in the case of enameling a bathtub, before proceeding with the work, you need to think about the choice of material. It is important to note that neither for the sake of economy, nor for any other purpose, ordinary acrylic, which is sold in hardware stores, can be used to restore bathtubs. According to its characteristics, it differs from sanitary acrylic, which is used specifically for the restoration of plumbing, so you can completely ruin the bath and harm your health. The choice in this case is between glass and liquid self-leveling acrylic.

Glass or Liquid Acrylic?

Today, two types of materials are used for the restoration of bathtubs: stakryl and bulk acrylic (Plastall is the market leader in the production of such materials, so liquid acrylic is often called plastol). Many consumers believe that they are no different from each other, but in fact this is not the case.

Stakryl appeared in stores about 10 years ago and has already managed to prove itself well. It fits well on any surface and costs less than plastol, however, restoring bathtubs with it can be quite difficult for beginners, since the composition sets quickly enough. It is much easier to work with plastol, as it is less whimsical in operation and does not have a pungent odor. In addition, this material retains its properties even after freezing.

Plastall offers consumers who want to refurbish their own bathtub a whole line of materials.

Name	Curing time	Peculiarities
"Plastol" classic	36-48 hours	An easy-to-work material that spreads well, has increased plasticity and good adhesion. It has no pungent odor, does not require the addition of thinners or other substances, forms a smooth and fade-resistant film. The mixture retains its properties for 90 minutes
"Plastol-24"	24 hours	A new material based on an improved classic formula. It is applied in one layer, the surface does not turn yellow, does not crack or peel off, it is resistant to mechanical damage and abrasion
"Plastol-M"	36-48 hours	Budget solution with an optimized formula, so the result of the use of the material is no different from the restoration of bathtubs with more expensive products. It does not have a strong odor, does not cause allergies, the mixture retains its characteristics for 90 minutes
"Plastol-Super"	16 hours	The "fastest" liquid acrylic, which hardens in a matter of hours. Does not form bubbles and streaks, does not require the addition of solvents or other components, but the mixture is “viable” for only 45 minutes

When choosing a material, it is important to pay attention to the price - a good product cannot cost less than indicated on the manufacturer's website, and fakes do not provide the required quality of the finished coating. For those who do not yet have experience in restoring bathtubs, it is recommended to buy acrylic with a margin so that it is enough for the entire surface.

Step-by-step instructions for the restoration of bathtubs with bulk acrylic

Stage one. Preparing to pour acrylic

Preparing the surface for restoration is practically the same as the preparatory stage when enameling a bathtub. It is necessary to clean off the old coating and sand the bowl so that its surface becomes matte, warm it up and dry it. After that, you need to disconnect the siphon designed to drain water and place a container under the bath into which excess acrylic will drain (the material must be avoided entering the sewer - this can lead to serious problems with water flow).

Stage two. Filling the bathtub with acrylic

Prepare the mixture as indicated in the instructions, pour into a convenient container and put a rubber spatula nearby. If you need material of a specific color, you can use tinting paste, but first make sure that this is allowed by the manufacturer. Its amount should not exceed 3% of the total volume of acrylic.

Take a container with acrylic and pour the composition on the sides of the bowl in a thin stream, pushing it with a spatula under the edges of the tile. It is not necessary to pour too quickly and strongly - you need to act so that you get a layer 4-6 mm thick, and the material slowly flows down to about the middle.

Move the container evenly around the perimeter of the bowl, without taking long breaks, until the circle closes.

Move the jet closer to the middle of the bath, do the same to capture the entire surface. You should not try to smooth out streaks or bumps - this will only worsen the situation, and all defects will disappear during the drying process. The time for complete solidification of acrylic is indicated in the instructions, but it is better not to use the bath for three days.

Throughout the entire period until the material dries, it is better not to touch the bathtub and not even come close to it, since the ingress of the smallest particles of dust or debris can spoil the appearance of the restored plumbing.

Video - Instructions for the restoration of bathtubs with glass

Method number 3. Restoration with insert

Restoration of bathtubs using acrylic liners is also called the “bath to bath” method. The liner is a construction made of acrylic, plastic or silicone, which is an exact copy of the bowl. It can be bought at a specialized store, having previously made all the necessary measurements of the bath, and then glued it to the old bowl.

Acrylic liners are the most popular today - they are much more aesthetic and durable than plastic or silicone. This design is ideal for old bathtubs that cannot be restored with a new layer of enamel or liquid acrylic. In addition, the surface of the liners perfectly retains heat, its surface is absolutely smooth, but at the same time it is absolutely non-slip.

This is the most reliable way to refurbish a bathtub (a quality acrylic liner will last approximately 15-20 years) and, contrary to popular belief, it does not reduce the interior space of a bathtub.

However, this method of bath restoration also has its drawbacks.

Difficulty in installation. Installing an acrylic liner is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. The liner is placed so that it covers the edges of the bath, and if the bowl is installed close to the wall, you will have to additionally remove the side and break the tile.
Possibility of water ingress between two tubs. If the installation was not carried out correctly, or due to wear or the use of poor quality materials, water may enter between the liner and the bottom of the bowl. This will lead to dampness, mold and bad smell.
inconvenience during operation. Sometimes manufacturers make liners too thin, which can cause them to sag underfoot and eventually deform or burst.
Liners are made only for standard bathtubs. As a rule, bathtubs are divided into two types - 1.5 m and 1.7 m, and if the bowl has a non-standard size or shape, it will be very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to choose an insert.
Fairly high cost. Compared to new acrylic baths, liners are inexpensive, but you can buy a new steel bath for that price.

How to choose an insert?

In order not to make a mistake when buying an insert, you need to take the following measurements:

the width of the bowl along the inner surface, and measurements should be made on both sides;
length along the inner and outer surface;
the depth of the bowl at the drain.

In order not to make a mistake that will entail trouble and additional costs, you can invite a professional measurer.

How to choose a bath insert

It should be noted that in most modern stores they sell products with a thickness of 3, and sometimes 2 mm - such liners are very short-lived, and it is not recommended to use them for restoring bathtubs. In the best case, the structure will last about 5 years, after which it will have to be dismantled and replaced.

Step-by-step instructions for restoring a bathtub with an insert

Stage one. Preparation of the bath and improvised means

For the installation of acrylic liners, mounting foam and silicone sealant are used. It should be noted that for the performance of work it is necessary to use only tools specially designed for this purpose. Simple foam, which is used in repair work, will not work in this case - it has a low density and expands too much. To improve these characteristics, additional components are added to the foam - it is this material that is taken for mounting acrylic liners. In addition, in this case, a sanitary sealant is used, which is waterproof and resistant to mold.

Preparing the bath for restoration with an insert- a rather long and laborious process, which, in the absence of appropriate skills, is best entrusted to specialists.

Release the sides of the bathroom, if necessary, remove one or two lower rows of tiles. It is not required to remove the old enamel, but it is recommended to clean the surface with an abrasive material - as a result, it will become rough and will better adhere to other materials. After that, it is good to clean the bowl of debris and crumbs, degrease with acetone or alcohol Disconnect the bath from communications by dismantling the upper and lower drains. The crosspiece also needs to be removed, and you should not use a hammer or other similar materials for this purpose, so as not to damage the drain. Before proceeding with the installation, it is better to check the condition of the pipes - if they are too worn out, it is better to take care of replacing Try on an acrylic liner - the design should go in easily or with little effort. In no case should you clog it with the help of improvised tools. Cut holes in acrylic for plums. It is most convenient to do this in the following way: plug the bath with a cork, lubricate it with some substance that leaves marks on the surfaces. Treat the second drain hole in the same way. Place the liner in the bowl, press it in the places of the drains and remove it - traces should be printed on the bottom of the structure. After that, it remains to mark the centers and drill holes of the required diameter. In order not to injure the skin on the sharp edges of the cuts in the future, they should be cleaned well. Step 5Determine the slope that is needed for good water flow - usually it is 1.5-3% in the direction of the drain hole Step 6Once again, degrease the surface of the bath well. Apply sealant to the upper drain hole, screw on the adapter, on which the sealant is also applied. After that, it should be applied to the drain hole, the width of the strip should be 2-3 cm, and the height depends on the fit of the liner to the bowl

Stage two. Installing the liner

The main rule to remember when installing an acrylic liner is that all the work should be done fairly quickly (in about 4-5 minutes), otherwise the adhesive will harden and poorly “grab” the materials.

Video - Acrylic bath liner

Summing up, it can be noted that you can update the look of an old bath without much damage to the family budget. With the right choice of restoration method, quality workmanship and appropriate surface care, the owner of a bathtub will be able to forget about all the problems and worries associated with plumbing for several years or even decades.

Step, No.	Description
	Apply polyurethane foam to the bottom and sides of the bathtub. Its quantity also depends on the tightness of the fit of the structure, but usually it is applied in strips with an interval of 4-5 cm, and on the sides the strips must be vertical and stretch from the bottom to the very top.
	Install liner
	It is good to press the sides of the liner with your hands, then stand with your bare feet in the place where the drain is located and move towards the opposite edge - this way the liner will fall into place and press firmly against the surface of the bowl. After that, it is good to press down the walls of the structure with your hands. It is not recommended to put pressure on the liner with any hard objects or hit it, otherwise you can damage the acrylic during the installation process

Over time, yellow spots, a network of cracks, and chips appear on the enamel coating. All this spoils the appearance of the bowl, becomes a problem for the hostess. Unfortunately, none of them will help here. It is necessary to restore the enamel of the bath or replace the plumbing fixture. It seems to many that the latter is the only correct solution. However, it is troublesome, associated with significant costs.

The cast iron container is very heavy. It will not be possible to dismantle and take one out of the house alone. The task becomes much more complicated if the plumbing is tiled or the apartment is located on one of the last floors. Subsequently, you will also need to bring in a new device, install it in place. Therefore, they try to carry out dismantling with replacement before repair in order to immediately put the room in order.

If repairs are not planned, there are no free funds for the purchase of new plumbing, its installation, you can try to restore the damaged coating. There are three effective recovery techniques. All of them are available for independent implementation, do not require significant expenses, and are relatively simple to implement. Even if you have to invite specialists, all the same, the costs of replacement and restoration differ significantly.

Preparing to cover the bath

Get rid of rust stains. We start with treatment with a solution or citric acid. Lubricate the area abundantly with liquid, leave for 30-40 minutes, rinse with water. If traces of rust remain, you will have to clean it mechanically.
We clean the old enamel. We clean it with sandpaper, and preferably with a grinder with a grinding wheel. There will be a lot of dust during the cleaning process. Therefore, we protect the respiratory organs with special means, put on overalls. At the end of grinding, remove the dust.
We close up deep chips, cracks for the car. We apply a layer, carefully distribute it over the defective area. After complete drying, we grind the treated fragment.
Before covering the bath with enamel, it is degreased. To do this, we prepare a slurry of water and carefully treat the surface with it. You can take a special drug. In any case, after processing, rinse everything well with hot water, dry it.

The dried container is once again cleaned of the remaining particles of contaminants. The best way to do this is with a vacuum cleaner. Then remove the drain, overflow, if any. The junction of the side and the wall is sealed with masking tape to protect the finish.

3 ways to restore enamel on a cast iron bath

Each of them gives a good result, provided that the technology of work is not violated. Let's take a look at all three options.

Enamelling

With your own hands, the easiest way is to perform the so-called enameling, in other words, the surface with a special composition. Most often it is enamel based, but there may be another remedy. Depending on the composition, the method of application may vary. sprayed, the emulsion is distributed with a roller or brush. The advantages of the technique are ease of application, low cost of the necessary materials.

Of the shortcomings, you need to be aware of the fragility of the updated coating. It will last no more than five years. Poor quality compounds turn yellow after a while. Careful surface preparation is essential before enamelling. A liquid product will not close chips or other defects. It will take a week for the drug to dry completely. All this time you can not use plumbing. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

We prime the base with a suitable one, let it dry. Sometimes you need to warm up the bowl. In this case, fill it with hot water, wait 15-20 minutes, drain the liquid. We wipe the walls dry with a lint-free cloth, only after that we remove the drain and overflow.
We substitute small containers under the holes of the plumbing fixture so as not to stain the floor. We are preparing a coloring preparation. Mix the two-component agent thoroughly.
We apply the first layer. We start with the sides and gradually move to the bottom of the container. Carefully distribute the paint, monitor the thickness of the layer. It shouldn't be too big, especially at the bottom where paint builds up. If this happens, we correct this defect with a brush.
Apply two more layers in the same way. We wait 15 minutes, after which we check if there are no sags or streaks. If necessary, we correct the shortcomings.

It remains to wait for the complete hardening of the enamel layers. Depending on the type of paint, this takes about five days or a little more. The dried surface must be polished. This is done with a drop of polishing paste on a soft cloth.

Processing with liquid acrylic

A good result is the application of acrylic paste. After drying, it forms a durable coating that will last up to 10 years, subject to the rules of operation. does not turn yellow over time, but spots may appear on it. This happens when dyes, aggressive chemicals get in. There are traces of abrasive detergents, strong blows with sharp objects. The restored surface must be protected from this.

The acrylic preparation does not have, so you can work without a respirator. It dries no longer than 36 hours. At this time, the bathroom must be closed so that dust or debris does not get on the wet solution. Another plus of the material is the absence of streaks, bubbles during application. The result is a perfectly smooth surface.

The disadvantage of the method is the need to acquire skills in work. If they are not, it is better to first try your hand at something suitable. Without experience, there is a high risk of hopelessly ruining a plumbing fixture.

Restoration stages

We are preparing a two-component solution for work. In a bucket with the drug in small portions, add the solvent. Stir thoroughly each time. The result should be a homogeneous paste. If this is not the case, after application, the peeling process will quickly begin, which will ruin the new coating.
If planned, add color to it. Its quantity will determine the saturation of the future color. When tinting the drug, you need to take into account that after drying it will become a little lighter. After mixing and tinting, the solution is left for 10-15 minutes, mixed again.
We close the drain hole of the bath from above with a single glass, under it we put a bucket for the flowing paste. We collect a small amount of liquid acrylic in a bucket. Starting from the edge, carefully pour it onto the side. We move evenly along the entire bowl until we reach the place where we started.
After the liquid glass is approximately to the middle of the side, we repeat our steps. We pour pasta from the middle of the side.
Remove the plastic cup. The acrylic accumulated at the bottom is carefully distributed with a spatula, directing the excess into the drain hole. We do this carefully, but quickly, not allowing the mass to grab.

It remains to wait for the acrylic paste to harden. Under normal conditions, this takes about a day, but it may take more. The exact time is specified on the packaging of the product.

Installing the liner

Sometimes it is impossible to restore the enamel in the bathroom or you don’t want to mess around with paint, then installing an acrylic liner would be a good solution. To do this, you will need to purchase a plastic bowl that will exactly repeat the shape and size of the old one. It is placed inside a cast-iron container, fixed with glue. The advantages of the method are obvious. Complicated preparatory work is not always required, you can use the bathroom the very next day.

The result is guaranteed to be good, which is not always the case when painting. The liner can be not only white, but any other color. It serves for a long time, at least 15 years. Provided that the operating requirements are met. The difficulty in execution will be the same: to purchase an insert that is suitable in size. This is not always possible, especially for non-standard bowls.

Step by step installation process

We release the edges of the bowl around its entire perimeter. If necessary, dismantle the adjacent cladding or panels.
We examine the surface of the plumbing. If the enamel is smooth, you will have to sand it to improve the adhesion of the adhesive. To do this, we fix the sandpaper on a convenient holder, evenly clean the coating. After that, we wash off the dust, dismantle the drain and overflow.
Fitting the insert. We rub the edges of the drain and overflow holes with a lead. We put the acrylic element in the bowl, press it lightly. The trace from the stylus will mark the holes. We draw a line along the side, if you need to remove part of the acrylic sheet. Cut off the excess around the perimeter with a jigsaw. Cut holes with a drill with a crown.
We apply. Abundantly process the edges of the overflow and drain with sealant. We do the same with the edges of the sides around the entire perimeter. The remaining space is filled with special foam. We apply it evenly, without empty areas.
We put the insert in place, press it with force. We fix it along the edges with clamps with plates placed under them so as not to damage the acrylic. We install a drain, draw water into the bowl. It should not reach 20-30 mm before overflow. The liquid will press the liner, which will ensure the normal polymerization of the foam, uniform fixation of the part. After a day, the water is drained. You can see the process in more detail on the video on the Internet.

We have analyzed three effective methods on how to restore the enamel coating on the bath at home. The most short-lived result will give self-enamelling, but it is also the easiest way to restore. When the renewed enamel becomes unusable, it can be painted again. It's much cheaper and easier.

Material prepared: Inna Yasinovskaya

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