The simplest do-it-yourself country house. DIY Country House - Projects and Ideas. Approximate cost of a garden house
To build a full-fledged, reliable, beautiful and comfortable country house with your own hands is the dream of almost every land owner.
Building a house on your own is an incredibly rewarding experience and a great opportunity to save money, because. all construction activities can be handled on their own without the involvement of third-party specialists. You just need to choose the right building material.
Recently, country houses made of foam blocks have become more and more popular. This building material has good performance characteristics, is fireproof and relatively light.
The blocks are large, which allows you to build various kinds of buildings with maximum speed. Working at an average pace, a house can be built in just a couple of months.
As for the monetary costs of construction, building a house from foam blocks will require much less material investments than arranging a brick structure, but a little more than building a similar house made of wood.
Advantages and disadvantages of foam blocks
Advantages
disadvantages
- Low tolerance for high loads.
- Low rate of curing, accompanied by shrinkage.
- Risk of cracks.
It is best to use blocks made of high-quality autoclaved foam concrete. Such material is less prone to shrinkage.
The bearing row of masonry is necessarily reinforced with reinforcement.
Foundation for the house
The best option for a foundation for a country house from the material in question is a strip base. The foundation structure must be reinforced.
The dimensions of the tape are quite standard. The width of the tape should be 100-200 mm greater than the thickness of the walls of the house. The depth of the slab is up to 600 mm. Base - no more than 400 mm.
The foundation is set up in a few simple steps.
Video - Foundation
First step
Mark the base in accordance with the layout of the future country house. For marking, use any suitable pegs and an ordinary rope.
Second step
Dig a trench according to the markings. Install formwork.
Third step
Fill the bottom of the trench with a 30 cm layer of sand and gravel. The backfill must be well compacted. Backfill in layers of 100 mm.
Fourth step
Cover the walls and bottom of the pit with moisture-proof material.
Fifth step
Lay the reinforcing layer. Assemble a mesh from 10-12 mm bars with cells no more than 15x15 cm. Tie up the joints of the reinforcing bars with steel wire.
sixth step
Pour concrete. It is important that there are no air voids in the fill. To eliminate voids, use a vibrator or pierce the fill with a rebar.
seventh step
Cover the frozen foundation with moisture-proof material (roofing material). Lay the strips with a minimum of 15 cm overlap.
Video - We build a country house from a foam block
Wall construction
Start building walls. First make sure that the foundation structure is horizontal. It is important that the height difference does not exceed 30 mm. In case of existing more significant deviations, level them with cement mortar.
It is important that the foam blocks are laid strictly horizontally along the longitudinal and transverse edges. Use a level to check if it is level. If distortions are found, correct the position of the foam block with an ordinary rubber mallet.
Video - Foam block laying
The starting row of foam blocks must be laid out especially carefully. The accuracy of the construction of the entire country house directly depends on the correctness of its installation.
First step. Find the highest point of the concrete base. At this stage, a level will help you.
Second step. Lay the first building element in the corner closest to the highest point of the foundation.
Third step. Install foam blocks in the remaining corners of the base.
Fourth step. Pull the rope between the corner foam blocks along the top edge of the wall.
Fifth step. Fill the initial row with foam blocks in accordance with the stretched cord. If you find any kind of irregularities in the evenness of the masonry, eliminate them with a sanding board, or even better - with a planer. Remove dirt with a brush.
Reinforcement
After the first row is completely filled, reinforcing bars should be laid on top of the foam blocks. In the future, the reinforcement must be laid after the installation of each 4th row.
Lay a smoothly curved steel rod in the corners.
First step. Using a grinder, prepare strobes measuring 40x40 mm at a distance of at least 60 mm from the edge of the building block.
Second step. Clean the grooves of dust and moisten them with clean water.
Third step. Fill the strobes with cement mortar about half the volume.
Fourth step. Lay the moistened rebars in the strobes.
Fifth step. Fill the recesses with mortar to the end.
At the location of the overlap, the armored belt must be monolithic. It will make the structure more rigid.
Rest 1-2 hours after laying out the first row of blocks. During this time, the solution will have time to grab. Keep laying out the walls.
Proceed to the construction of internal partitions.
First step. Mark on the bearing wall the place of interface with the partition.
Second step. Insert stainless steel anchors into the intended area. Insert one end into the load-bearing wall, fix the other end into the seam of the partition. Such fasteners must be inserted into the load-bearing wall through one row of blocks.
Third step. Secure the anchors with nails. It is also allowed to simply press the anchor into the mortar without using nails.
Openings for windows and double-glazed windows
Buy or make your own lintels from hollow foam blocks for arranging the floor. The cross section of such jumpers should look like the letter P.
Mark the cut sections on the foam block, and then remove the inside with a hammer.
Install hollow foam blocks that look like the letter P on top of the opening to be equipped. Install on wooden supports. For example, timber or boards are suitable.
Fasten the supports with nails to the side walls of the opening. Lay the rebar in the inner strips and pour the concrete. Do not remove the supports until the poured concrete has gained strength.
Also, foam blocks can be laid on top of the opening to be equipped on metal corners.
Roof structure
Arrange the floor of the house from wooden beams and proceed with the construction of the roof.
Choose the shape and type of roof at your discretion. The order of arrangement of the roof remains the same:
- rafters are installed;
- crate is stuffed;
- the necessary insulating materials are laid;
- the final roofing is installed.
Choose the roofing material according to your personal preferences and available budget.
The surface layer of foam blocks is characterized by rather intense moisture absorption. Therefore, the finished walls must be closed with external decoration. Otherwise, they will darken very quickly and begin to rapidly collapse.
Various materials can be used for exterior wall decoration. Choose to your taste. The most commonly used solutions are:
Choose the most suitable exterior finish for you and get the job done.
In conclusion, you will only have to complete the interior decoration of the country house at your discretion, connect the necessary communications and systems, and then complete the interior arrangement of the home to your taste.
Warming of a country house from foam blocks
Self-construction of a country house from foam blocks is a fairly quick and not too expensive event financially. Follow the recommendations received, and you will be able to build a reliable country house with your own hands.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself construction of a country house
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M Many residents of megacities dream of buying a plot and a comfortable house outside the city, albeit a small one. In some cases, it is easier and cheaper to build a house yourself than to buy a ready-made one. Projects of country houses for 6 acres will help you make the right choice, photos of which are presented in large numbers in our review. It is believed that building a house is very difficult. But some projects of country buildings are distinguished by their extraordinary simplicity.
Comfortable cottage building of small size
Projects of country houses for 6 acres: photos, options and building requirements
To create a solid and durable building, you need to choose a quality project for a country house for 6 acres. Photos of the best options can be seen in the interior. Before choosing, you should decide on the materials and a convenient place for the future design.
What building materials are used in the construction?
A wide range of different materials can be used for the construction of summer cottages. The most commonly used options are:
- It belongs to the most popular. Such buildings are built during the season and are distinguished by simple technology. The frame system is assembled from a bar, which is sheathed with special plywood or clapboard. Refers to the best options in terms of quality and price. Also, this material is characterized by a long service life.
- Some buildings are made from profiled timber. It takes several months to build the structure. Also, about six months is allotted for shrinkage. Such structures do not require external finishing.
- Stone buildings are made of, and cinder blocks. For such structures, long construction periods are required, since a powerful foundation is used and the walls are built in rows. Before construction work, it is necessary to prepare a detailed project. Houses made of stone and brick are distinguished by increased strength and reliability.
Helpful information! The choice of building material is influenced by its cost in a particular region, personal preferences and the type of foundation. Frame buildings and structures made of timber are mounted on screw or columnar bases.
Video: small houses for a plot of 6 acres
How to build a turnkey country house inexpensively: prices
For those who do not want to spend a lot of time on construction work, a turnkey country house inexpensively can be the best option. Prices for structures can be seen in a special catalog of the selected construction organization. There is a suitable option for any budget. The cost of the structure is influenced by the type of structure, material and dimensions of the structure.
A 5 * 5 m house made of lining and timber will cost about 100 thousand rubles. A building with a porch and a canopy or veranda will require a larger investment, more than 200 thousand rubles.
Related article:
Features of mounting a house with your own hands
Features of installation work depend on the choice of a specific material. The structure of the timber has many positive qualities. Such material is treated with stain and various protective compounds. Under the design, you can use a lightweight version of the foundation. In this case, the roof can be gable.
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a fully buried tape one (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. So a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.
The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:
Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The easiest and fastest way to build a small house is to assemble it from a prefabricated panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.
A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils of various kinds, but having one common property - sufficient connectivity of their own, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan, so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy ones, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage. An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week. The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one. The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required. A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.: There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all. In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed. In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages: The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat. The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor. Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step. The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order: The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.: The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve. If possible, you can hire hired workers to build this building. Of course, this will significantly add financial costs for your family, and if this is not possible, you will have to build a country house with your own hands. Basically, the owners of dachas build their houses with their own hands in order to save money for hiring a construction team and invite relatives and friends to the construction site to help, which by itself reduces the cost of building a building. Even summer residents sometimes use used materials, which can be purchased at half the price compared to market prices, but this will reduce the durability of the structure, also by half. When building his country house, the author decided not to save on the main material and buy everything on the construction market, so that it would be enough for a century and the house would stand for a long time, please his family and his guests with its comfort and aesthetic appearance. Of course, wood was chosen as the main material for the construction, which could be better and more beautiful than wood. The author bought bars and boards at a local sawmill, which turned out to be much cheaper than in a hardware store. Starting construction, I pre-drilled wells under the supporting pillars, inserted them and filled them with cement mortar. I made the binding of the pillars with boards and left for a day to dry the solution. Then he started building, step by step going to the cherished goal. And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his country house, and what he needed for this. Materials: board 30 mm, timber 100 by 100, timber 40 by 60, floorboard 50 mm, insulation, professional sheet, rail, fiberboard. And so the first thing he invited was a neighbor and together they drilled wells to install poles. A novice summer resident who has just bought a land plot has to. The choice of building materials is made taking into account the financial resources available to the developer. Low-budget projects are being built using frame technology borrowed by Russians from Western builders. Additional savings can be obtained if you build a frame country house with your own hands with the involvement of one or two assistants with daily wages. This technology of building houses also attracts with the speed of assembly of the structure. In a few weeks, you can build an object, and after the completion of the finishing work, begin to operate it. Wall structures, lightened through the use of modern insulation, do not require a powerful foundation. The multi-layer construction of walls, floors and interfloor ceilings allows you to hide engineering communications. Let's use the example of a two-story frame house to consider the main stages of its construction with our own hands. The dimensions of the object are 5 by 10 meters. The thickness of the insulation placed in the cells of the wooden frame is 15 cm. On the land plot there was a strip foundation from the previous building, the dimensions of which were 5 by 7 meters. In order to save materials, the developer decided to use the existing foundation by increasing the area of the house by installing three brick pillars. The result was a combined foundation structure, 5 meters wide and 10 meters long. Important! When using the old foundation, it is recommended to free it around the perimeter from the ground half a meter deep. Apply modern waterproofing compounds to the walls, as well as protect them from the damaging effects of moisture and temperature changes with hydroglass. Then the space near the foundation is covered with sand, tamped and filled from above with the previously excavated soil. The fertile layer of earth, located in the area of the foundation, is completely removed for its intended use in a summer cottage. Instead of this layer, sand is poured, which has good drainage properties. For the construction of the basement, vents are made in the foundation and 9 to 18 holes are drilled, which are necessary to place anchors with studs in them. After completion of all preparatory work, the foundation surface is treated with a waterproofing mixture applied in several layers. A hydrostekloizol and a film are laid on top of the foundation so that moisture does not penetrate into the basement, laid out in the course of further work from bricks. The height of the plinth is 1 m. Construction of the foundation of a frame country house based on an old strip foundation and additionally brick pillars covered with waterproofing Also interesting! How to build a country house from a container: The operation for the installation of the basement ceiling is carried out using the "platform" technology. A 50-ku board and a beam of 10 × 15 cm are laid on the strip foundation. Two beams are attached to the brick pillars side by side. For fastening wooden parts, studs are used, mounted in advance for these purposes. To stiffen the structure of the basement, it is necessary to install two more beams in the center of the house. Thus, the height of the strapping is 15 cm. Boards of 50s are laid and fixed on top of the strapping, maintaining a distance of 60 cm between them. From the bottom of this structure, a subfloor is stuffed, using boards 25 mm thick for this. The resulting cells are filled with polystyrene foam, laid in two layers 5 and 10 cm thick. The gaps between the foam plastic and the boards are filled with mounting foam, after which an overlap of boards (50 × 300 mm) is arranged on top. The installation of the base for the construction of the platform is made from a beam using anchors with studs fixed in the foundation of the house Laying foam boards for insulating the floor of a frame house is accompanied by the obligatory foaming of tile joints and cracks located between the material and the logs The walls are assembled on the horizontal surface of the mounted floor of the frame house. Then the modules are attached to the lower strapping, made of timber. The length of the pillars on the first floor was 290 cm, taking into account the installation of a 45 cm crossbar. The height of the ceilings of the rooms on the first floor is 245 cm. The second floor is built a little lower, and therefore racks 260 cm long are taken. It is very difficult to install the frame racks alone, so an assistant is involved in this work. In a week, the installation of corner and intermediate racks of both floors, all ceilings and crossbars is carried out. Important! The corner posts are connected to the upper and lower trim using spikes 5x5x5 cm, as well as metal connectors: brackets, plates, squares, etc. Make sure that the surfaces of the corner and intermediate posts are in the same plane within the same wall. Fulfillment of this requirement will facilitate further installation of the skin, both internal and external. Installation of the frame of the walls of a two-story country house is carried out by installing racks, strengthening their position with the help of slopes and horizontal crossbars The distance between adjacent racks of the frame depends on the width of the insulation selected for laying in the piers. Taking into account this requirement will save the developer from the need to cut the insulation, which will affect not only the speed of this stage of work, but also the thermal insulation of the object as a whole. After all, any additional seams increase heat loss. In this project, the racks were installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Wall frames need reinforcement, carried out by mounting braces and braces. The role of these elements is great, as they give the frame of the house spatial rigidity. The frontal cut is used when connecting the struts to the posts and strapping bars. A semi-pan cut is used when attaching braces. Although you can carry out this operation with nails and bolts. Within one wall of a frame house, at least two struts must be installed. A larger number of these parts is taken in the event that excessive requirements are placed on the strength rigidity of the frame being erected. The final rigidity of the frame structure will give: Carrying out the construction of a country house on two floors with the need to install ceilings of a large area, it is necessary to take care of the installation of crossbars. Thanks to the crossbars, it is possible to ensure the strength and rigidity of the logs laid on the second floor, as well as to exclude the possibility of their deflection throughout the entire life of the structure. At this facility, the crossbar is built in layers, each of which consists of three 50 mm boards of the required length, fastened on the sides with 25 mm boards, launched at an angle of 45 degrees and directed in opposite directions. The construction is very strong and reliable. Crossbar support in the frame structure. The crossbar is necessary for laying the log of the second floor, involved in the installation of a solid floor The installation of horizontal crossbars is carried out above the boxes of windows and doors, thereby limiting the height of the frame in these places. These elements, along with their main function, serve as additional amplifiers in the power circuit of a wooden frame. For each window opening it is necessary to install two crossbars, and for doorways - one at a time. Veranda in a frame-type cottage. Step-by-step example of self-erection: The construction of the roof is carried out according to a drawing developed in advance by the developer. The drawing allows you to make an accurate calculation of all the necessary building materials for the installation of the roof truss system, as well as the materials going to the installation of the roofing pie (rough coating, vapor barrier, waterproofing, finish coating, etc.). Installation of a roof consisting of four bevels running at an angle of 45 degrees, together with an assistant, can be completed in a week. The height of the roof above the attic floor is 150 cm. The rough coating of the bevels is made from a 25 mm board. Then ICOPAL insulation is attached to the rough coating, and in some places it is replaced by ordinary roofing material, nailed to the base with nails (40 mm). Installation of a truss system for the selected type of roof and laying a rough coating of edged boards with a thickness of 25 mm All racks of the frame are sheathed on the outside with an “inch” board, the thickness of which is 25 mm and the width is 100 mm. At the same time, part of the skin is attached to the frame at an angle, which makes the structure of the house even stronger. If the developer is not constrained by funds, then it is better to make the sheathing from cement-bonded particle boards (DSP) or other slab material. When carrying out work in cold weather, it is recommended to tighten the roof and window openings with plastic wrap until the installation of double-glazed windows and the flooring of the finishing roofing. The installation of the outer skin starts from the front side of the house, then moves to the sides and finishes work on the back wall, saving lumber The roof of a two-story frame house is covered with flexible shingles "Tegola Alaska". When performing work, a hired worker is also involved. For the entire roof area of the house 5 by 10 meters, 29 packs of soft roofing are needed. Each pack is designed to cover 2.57 square meters of roof. Two workers can lay up to six packs of soft roofing a day. Laying a soft roof using Tegola bituminous tiles. Installing a gutter system to collect and drain rainwater For the external cladding of the house, siding produced by Mitten is purchased. With the help of skillfully combined colors of Ivory and Gold, it is possible to give an unusual design to a two-story country house. Mitten Gold siding is used to finish the four corners of the house, as well as the walls under the windows. As a result, it is possible to obtain an interesting pattern that gives an unusual and stylish look to the entire structure. Facing is carried out in several steps: Installation of the exterior cladding of a siding house is carried out within a few days by two workers using a metal tour purchased from a store or rented The walls of a two-story frame house are insulated from the inside using synthetic winterizer mats and rolls of the Shelter EcoStroy brand. Rolled material without unnecessary joints enters between the racks of the frame, to which it is attached with a construction stapler. It is recommended to fix the insulation to the details of the frame so that the material does not settle during the operation of the house. To insulate the attic floor, ecowool is used, which differs from other types of insulation in its increased soundproofing properties. For the inner lining of a wooden frame, tongue-and-groove boards are purchased, which are nailed to the racks so that a flat plane of the wall is obtained. It is forbidden to allow the presence of gaps between the cladding parts, otherwise the walls will be blown through. Further, drywall sheets are attached to a flat wall, which are pasted over with wallpaper. You can replace drywall with fiberboard or other sheet materials. The selected insulation is laid in the cells of a wooden frame from the inside of the room, while the joints of the synthetic winterizer boards are glued with construction tape During the construction of a frame country house, the following tools were used: The materials used were timber, edged board, grooved board, drywall, insulation, fasteners: nails, self-tapping screws, metal connectors, etc. Rehau double-glazed windows were inserted into the window openings. All wooden parts were treated with the Snezh BIO antiseptic. During the construction of this facility, the construction of scaffolding is required, as well as the purchase of a metal tour. Construction of scaffolding - an auxiliary structure necessary for the installation of roofing, wind protection, battens and other work carried out at height Knowing how difficult it is to build a country house with your own hands, you can consciously decide to start work. Perhaps in your case it is easier to find a team of builders who know firsthand about the construction of frame houses.
Foundation
Unburied
buried
Geoscrews
Video: installation of a frame house
What house to build?
When not to excess
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and… bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Skeletons
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof
Each person who has acquired a small plot of land for a summer residence seeks to build a house in a short time, or a similar easily erected structure. So that there is a place where to relax after a hard day's work, or to hide from inclement weather. Well and to be arranged in the household plan naturally. Of course, it is desirable to build a house to accommodate the whole family, and guests who came for the weekend. The task is certainly grandiose, but quite doable if you have accumulated savings for the construction of a country house, because a large amount of new building material will be required.
Instruments: circular saw, drill, drill, screwdriver, hammer, shovel, electric planer, corner, ruler, tape measure, circular cut-off saw.
Then he installed the posts, and filled the holes with cement mortar. 
I made a screed at the bottom and at the top so that the pillars stood evenly, after a day after the solution had gained hardness, I proceeded to further construction. 
The author makes the top harness. 
Then proceeds to create the roof ridge. 
Next, he makes the roof sheathing. 
Shows the rafter attachment point. 
The leftovers from sawing up will also come in handy somewhere. 
Then proceeds to the installation of the roof from the professional sheet. 
Then he moves on to the device of the floors of the house. 
So it turned out a place to store boards from precipitation. 
Preparing a batch of boards by spreading them on a circular saw. 
And proceeds to finish the cornice. 
Sheaths the walls with boards, and closes the gaps between the boards with slats. 
Next comes the ceiling lining. Stage # 2 - installation of the basement
Stage # 3 - erection of racks and walls
Stage # 4 - strengthening the frame and assembling the crossbars
Stage # 5 - installation of a roof truss system
Stage # 6 - sheathing the outer walls of the frame
Stage # 7 - roofing and siding installation
Stage # 8 - laying insulation and inner lining
List of consumables and tools