Insulation of a frame house: where to start and what material to choose? The technology of insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool from the inside and outside Proper insulation of the walls of a frame house













Panel houses of summer residence, the “lightest” design, use a bar with a section of 10x10 cm for the supporting frame of the walls. If polystyrene foam is used as a cavity filler, then you don’t have to worry about additional thermal insulation - PPS 10 cm thick is similar in thermal conductivity to the D500-D600 gas silicate block 375-400 mm wide. The question of how to insulate a panel house for winter living arises only if mineral wool is laid inside the wall - this thickness is not enough for Russian frosts. Even for frame walls made of 150x100 timber with mineral wool inside, additional insulation will be required. But besides the walls, there is also a floor, a ceiling and an attic, which also cannot be ignored if the house is transferred to year-round use.

This is how the internal insulation of frame-panel walls looks like

How to insulate the walls of a panel house outside

A panel house on a wooden frame is not a log house made of logs or timber. In this case, it is not necessary to talk about the breathing properties (gas permeability) of the walls. First, a vapor barrier is laid from the inside in a continuous layer. Secondly, the vapor permeability of plywood or OSB boards with which the frame is sheathed is very low. Therefore, for external insulation, you can use those materials that are not used for wooden houses:

    expanded polystyrene;

    EPS (extruded polystyrene foam);

    sprayed thermal insulation based on two-component or one-component polyurethane foam.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

But most often choose mineral wool. And to be more precise - stone (basalt) wool. And although the thermal conductivity of stone wool is approximately one and a half times higher than that of foam plastics (thermal insulation properties are just as worse), it belongs to non-combustible substances - to the NG group. Of course, fire hazard and fire resistance requirements are not imposed on low-rise single-family houses (up to two floors inclusive) (clause 6.5.6 of SP 2.13130), but if the frame house is insulated with non-combustible materials, then this will not be superfluous.

Mineral wool cannot be set on fire even with a gas burner flame.

It is easy to compensate for the lower thermal insulation properties due to the thickness. External insulation is not internal, and a few extra centimeters of insulation mean nothing. It is necessary to insulate with rigid mats - rolled materials in vertical structures “mov out” over time. And you have to choose between a thickness of 5 cm and 10 cm. For central Russia, provided that mineral wool 10 cm thick has already been laid inside the walls, an additional 5 cm of a heat-insulating layer is sufficient. Plus the thickness of the double-sided wall cladding, interior trim and facade panels.

But if the budget allows, you can lay a layer 10 cm thick.

How to insulate walls from the outside

How to insulate a frame house for winter living:

    from the surface of the outer walls remove "foreign" objects- ebbs, cornices, visors, brackets for mounting lighting fixtures and attachments;

    remove old trim- dismantle the casing, clean the paintwork;

    execute marking for framing, given the width of the insulation mats;

    handle all wooden elements of the crate with an antiseptic;

    mount timber frame with a height equal to the thickness of the insulation;

The vertical crate for external insulation of the pediment and walls does not have to coincide with each other. The main thing is that the step matches the width of the mats

    fix insulation between the crate;

    lay in a continuous layer, with overlapping sheets, superdiffusion waterproofing membrane, fix it to the crate;

    fill the beam of the counter-lattice, which should provide a ventilation gap and serve as a place for attaching facade panels (the height of the beam must be at least 6 cm - this is the minimum size of the ventilation gap);

    sheathe the facade siding, block house or any other finishing materials for a ventilated facade.

Important! Even before insulation, it is necessary to replace the windows with a "winter" version. It is also necessary to insulate the entrance group - to equip a small vestibule and install a second entrance door.

Additional insulation of the panel house can be carried out along a horizontal crate, and the counter-crate to create a ventilated gap and fasten the skin can be made vertical.

Video description

Clearly about the creation of a counter-lattice and fastening the skin in the following video:

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

basement insulation

Full-fledged insulation of the panel house from the outside will require work on the thermal insulation of the basement for the strip base or the pick-up for the pile foundation.

Insulation of the basement strip foundation

According to experts, the house through the foundation loses up to 10-15% of the total heat loss due to the rather high thermal conductivity of reinforced concrete or building blocks (depending on what the basement is made of). And this phenomenon also needs to be fought.

This is how the general scheme of heat loss through enclosing surfaces looks like

In this case, it is better to choose EPPS for insulation. It is difficult to protect mineral wool near the ground from moisture as part of a “wet” facade (especially a hinged one). Extruded polystyrene foam has a very low water absorption coefficient, and can even successfully perform waterproofing functions.

How to insulate a panel house for winter living according to the "wet facade" technology:

    prepare plinth surface- they clean it of dirt, if necessary, level it with cement mortar, treat it with a primer for deep penetration concrete;

    fasten on the adhesive solution of the plate, additionally fixed with mechanical fasteners;

    apply a layer adhesive solution, reinforce with a mesh, pressing it into the solution, level the surface;

    veneer the plinth tiles made of artificial or natural stone.

If the finish is carried out with basement siding or fiber cement panels, then the insulation has the following diagram:

    prepare surface;

    mount brackets for crates;

    fix the plates- glue plus mechanical fasteners;

    seams blown with foam;

    mounted on brackets vertical crate from a galvanized profile;

    sheathe crate panels;

    close top plinth ebb.

Basement insulation with EPPS boards and stone-like paneling

Insulation of the base of the pile foundation

To insulate the foundations of the house on a pile foundation, they build a small wall that closes the space under the house. This type of plinth is called a pick-up. There are two options for this design:

    small self-supporting wall made of brick, building blocks or rubble stone, standing on its own shallow base;

    arrangement along the perimeter pile foundation of a frame made of wooden beams or profiles, followed by sheathing with basement siding, fiber cement panels under stone or brick.

Both versions of the pile foundation base are usually insulated from the inside. To do this, use either EPPS or sprayed polyurethane foam (rodents like to settle in ordinary foam).

This is an insulated subfloor of a panel house on a pile foundation.

But the thermal insulation of the basement does not preclude work on floor insulation.

How to insulate the floor

Thermal insulation of the floor is already a technology for insulating a panel house from the inside. From the point of view of heat engineering, the insulated floor of a wooden house is a single-layer structure that simultaneously performs load-bearing and heat-insulating functions. There are different options for arranging the warm floor of a panel house, but they all come down to a thin-layer sheathing of a supporting wooden frame, inside which heat-insulating materials are placed. And in order to protect the insulation from moisture and water vapor, it must be protected by continuous layers of vapor and waterproofing.

There are certain differences in the insulation of the floors of an apartment building and a private house. In an apartment building, the floor insulation must be protected from the penetration of water vapor from below, from the side of another heated apartment. And here the vapor barrier is spread over the ceiling (from below relative to the insulation).

In a panel house, the partial pressure of water vapor in the warm air inside the room is higher than in the cold air from the side of the pile or strip foundation. Therefore, a vapor-tight barrier must be on the side of the floor covering.

One of the possible schemes for installing an insulated floor. Regardless of the flooring materials and subfloor filing, the order of the layers does not change

There are different options for arranging an insulated wooden floor, but the principle is the same for everyone, and the circuit looks like this:

    boards subfloor;

    solid layer of waterproofing membrane;

    insulation;

    solid vapor barrier layer;

    finishing floor.

Important! Moisture from the insulation should be vented into the underground, and from there through the vents to the street.

How to insulate an attic

There are two standard schemes for insulating a panel house from the side of the roof: a cold attic and an attic (or a combined roof).

cold attic insulation

In this case, there is no insulation in the roof structure. Warming is carried out on a wooden floor.

This is a standard cold attic insulation scheme from Geksa, a manufacturer of Izospan insulation materials.

Here it is important to keep following conditions:

    Vapor barrier is fixed on the surface of the false ceiling from the side of the room. It should protect not only the insulation, but also the load-bearing floor beams along with the draft ceiling. Otherwise, the wooden structural elements will be moistened from exposure to vapors in warm air, and the evaporation of excess moisture from them outside the room will be blocked by a vapor barrier.

    Choose as a vapor barrier films with anti-condensation properties. These are two- or three-layer polymeric materials with a rough (fleshy) surface, which is turned towards the room. They are able to partially retain condensate, up to the appearance of conditions for its weathering.

    Insulation is laid on the false ceiling between the load-bearing floor beams.

    Laid on top of the insulation waterproofing superdiffusion membrane.

    If the height of the floor beams is insufficient to form a ventilated gap above the insulation, then they are stuffed spacer rails. And the attic floor boards are already attached to them.

Attic insulation

There are two options for insulating a frame house for winter living by insulating the attic: this is the thermal insulation of the roof or the contour of the dwelling.

Insulation of the contour of a residential attic (mansard) can also have different options. For example, as in this diagram - with roof insulation from the cornice to the top trim

But in any case, from the side of the roof on the rafters, in front of the crate (or solid flooring), a waterproofing membrane must be laid.

For a metal roof, a gap is required between the waterproofing and the roofing so that condensate can drain onto the drip, and moisture can be vented from the under-roof space. If the vapor permeability of the membrane is low, then a ventilation gap must remain between it and the insulation to vent water vapor from the mineral wool.

Roof insulation

It is easier to insulate the entire roof than to “cut out” a warm contour from the attic. Especially if the house is small.

This is how the scheme of the insulated roof looks like

The insulation of the entire roof is carried out as follows:

    Between the rafters lay mats mineral wool. If the pitch of the rafters is greater than the width of the mat, then an additional crate is mounted. If less, the mats are cut. But in any case, the width of the mats should be 5 cm less than the pitch of the rafters.

    Over the insulation to the rafter legs (and crate) fix a continuous layer of vapor barrier. These can be materials with anti-condensation or reflective properties. The strips are overlapped, both horizontally and when extended in length. All joints and junctions to structural elements are fixed with self-adhesive vapor-tight tape. The anti-condensation or reflective surface should face the attic.

    For creating a gap(and fastening the sheathing sheathing) a wooden bar is nailed to the rafters.

Insulation of the living perimeter of the attic

It is possible to insulate only part of the roof, which limits the attic itself. The insulation is laid from the line of attachment points of the racks to the rafters, and so that it does not slip, a horizontal strut is mounted between the rafter legs. At the top, the border of the warm perimeter can pass along the ridge or along the attachment line of the upper harness. The upper trim in this case serves as the load-bearing beams of the attic ceiling.

Two schemes for insulating the attic contour - without a ceiling and with a ceiling

If the attic has a ceiling, then its insulation takes place according to the “cold attic” scheme.

The walls of the attic are insulated in this way:

    from the side of the roof to the pillars fasten the skin;

    insulation stacked between racks;

    attach to racks vapor barrier;

    stuffed on racks distance bar(to form a gap between the vapor barrier and the inner cladding), the same bar serves as a counter-lattice for the attic cladding.

Video description

Demonstration video on attic insulation:

Conclusion

Warming a panel house for winter living is not an easy undertaking. Only the right choice of materials and adherence to technology guarantee that the expected effect will correspond to reality. Mistakes can lead to the fact that the first heating season will pass safely, and during the next heat-insulating materials will partially lose their properties.

Frame houses are built quickly and are inexpensive. If you plan to use the building during the warm period, they are often limited to the regular insulation provided for by the project. But over time, there may be a desire to travel outside the city, not only in the summer. To make living in it comfortable, it is necessary to insulate the frame house.

It is preferable to insulate the frame house at the construction stage, but the finished structure can also be made warmer. The industry produces a number of materials that not only have heat-insulating properties, but also help to improve sound insulation. The most popular heaters are mineral wool, glass wool, expanded polystyrene, ecowool, foam plastic. Bulk materials can also be used for this purpose.

Warming is carried out both inside and outside. Each of the technologies has its own characteristics. To install the heat-insulating layer from the outside, several methods are used:

  • hinged;
  • wet;
  • spraying a liquid heat insulator;
  • facing.


Inside, expanded polystyrene is more often used or sprayed with ecowool, penoizol, polyurethane. Various types of sheathing are also used: reinforced plaster, which is puttied and pasted over with wallpaper. Painting or installation of decorative panels from MDF, lining or plasterboard is possible. The last option requires the application of a decorative coating. The most reliable is the cross-insulation of a frame house.

Popular heaters

Warming a frame house with mineral wool, which has several varieties, is the most common way to prepare a room for winter. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls, plates and cylinders. Cylinders are ideal for pipeline insulation. Rolls are used to cover all interior surfaces of residential buildings, and slabs are suitable for those structures that must withstand heavy loads.

Vata differs in composition. Stone (basalt) is made from rocks formed as a result of a volcanic eruption. The source material is gabbro-basalt rocks. Basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 1200 0 C. Stone wool is distinguished by high density and low thermal conductivity, the material is not combustible, and is an excellent sound insulator.


Glass wool is made from sand, soda, dolomite and cullet. Long fibers make it more durable than stone. The elastic material easily restores its shape after deformation.

Glass wool can be used at temperatures from +45 0 to -60 0 C. It is resistant to chemical attack, does not react with metal. This material does not shrink, is frost-resistant, has low hygroscopicity, is light, and is a good sound absorber. However, it cannot be used to insulate chimneys, as it burns out with prolonged contact with hot surfaces.

Slag wool is a type of mineral wool obtained from recycled blast-furnace slag. Contains many harmful compounds, not applicable for internal insulation. Low price and high heat-insulating, sound-absorbing properties, ease of installation, long service life lead to the fact that this unsafe material is widely used in construction.

Important! When working with mineral wool, it is very important to take into account the fragility of its fibers. You can work with it only in glasses and a respirator, protecting your hands with gloves. Contact with skin and mucous membranes can cause irritation and allergic reactions.


Work order

If a decision is made to insulate a frame house with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions look something like this:

  • covering the walls with a heat insulator from the outside;
  • wall covering from the inside;
  • hydro and thermal insulation of the floor;
  • hydro and thermal insulation of the ceiling;
  • window work.

Warming outside

Hinged method

Horizontal bars with a section of 50x50 mm are stuffed along the outer walls of the house. The distance between the bars should be 1 cm less than the width of the selected insulation. The heat-insulating material is selected with a thickness of at least 5 cm. The insulation blocks are placed between the bars so that they enter between the guides with force. A waterproofing is stuffed over the crate with heat-insulating material, which will protect the insulation from getting wet and will serve as a barrier to the wind. Sheets of a moisture-proof membrane are overlapped to eliminate the formation of gaps.


Another crate is stuffed over the film, the task of which is to create an air gap between the insulation and the fine finish. Siding is most often used as an external coating, it is possible to finish with a board with subsequent painting. It looks great as an external covering for a blockhouse, but the price of such a finish is quite high. This method of wall insulation is called hinged.

wet way

The frame house is insulated with polystyrene foam using a wet method. The wet method of facade insulation consists in fixing the thermal insulator plates on an adhesive base. Work begins with the removal of the old coating and leveling the walls. Then the surface is primed with a deep penetrating primer. The starting bar is attached to the wall, it should be 25-30 cm below the floor of the first floor. The thickness of the strip is chosen equal to the thickness of the insulation, which is usually used as foam plastic or basalt slabs.

Polyurethane adhesive is heated to room temperature, shaken, then applied with a special gun. You can also use a cement mixture by adding 0.3 parts of water to 1 part of the dry mixture and mixing thoroughly. Such an adhesive base must be used up in the first 3 hours after preparation.

The glue is applied to the plate with a notched trowel and glued starting from the bottom. The layout of the plates is the same as for brickwork to avoid the appearance of vertical cracks. The resulting cracks are foamed. After the glue has dried, the plates are reinforced with plastic dowels. Then an adhesive layer is applied to the wall, into which a reinforcing mesh is embedded. After drying, another adhesive layer is applied.

The resulting surface is sanded, primed and coated with paint. Above such a facade, a visor for water drainage should be mounted.

Insulation of a frame house with foam plastic, that is, extruded polystyrene foam, is carried out in the same way as with foam plastic. Both of these materials perfectly protect from the cold, but are fire hazard! It is necessary to remember this when choosing them for thermal insulation.

Spraying liquid heat insulator

For this, polyurethane foam is used. The advantages of the method include obtaining a continuous layer that excludes cold bridges. Polyurethane foam is distinguished by strength, frost resistance, resistance to chemical attack. On the other hand, the material ages under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes. Blowing foam between walls can lead to damage due to excessive expansion of the heat insulator. The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam is its high flammability. The use of the material requires increased fire safety measures.


The wall is cleaned of dirt and dust, a crate is mounted on it. Semi-rigid type polyurethane foam is applied to the wall under high pressure. Work is carried out in a protective suit.

After the foam hardens, the excess is cut off. Plaster is applied over the coating, or painted with acrylic or silicate dyes. From above, the facade is covered with vinyl siding or sheathed with clapboard.

Insulation by cladding

It is based on covering the walls with clinker facade thermal panels. This is a cross between a thermal insulator and a finishing material. Thermal panels are a sandwich structure consisting of polyurethane foam, marble chips and decorative ceramics made from refractory shale clay - clinker tiles. This finish has excellent thermal insulation properties, high strength and durability, attractive appearance. The decorative surface is not afraid of mechanical influences. The cost of such a coating is high, but the ability to use clinker tiles to finish any type of wall and do without repairs makes it attractive to the consumer.

The walls of a frame house can also be insulated using expanded clay, although this method is not very suitable for lightweight structures, because the walls must withstand the load of the insulation itself. But in favor of expanded clay speaks its low price.


Expanded clay is distinguished by:

  • high density;
  • increased thermal conductivity;
  • poor moisture absorption and poor water loss.

Using expanded clay as a wall insulation, care must be taken to strengthen the internal and external rough finish. However, it is better to use this material for the floor and ceiling, and cover the walls with other, more modern heat insulators.

Warming from the inside

The insulation of the frame house from the inside is made two-layer. The first layer 5 cm thick is laid flush with the logs and jibs. The second layer of 10 cm is laid between the uprights and is closed from above with a vapor barrier. The film is laid with a smooth side to the thermal insulation. The strips are overlapped, the seams between them are glued with adhesive tape.

Important! Thermal insulation must completely fill all the gaps, it cannot be rammed.

Interior partitions are also supplied with a heat-insulating layer that performs soundproofing functions and prevents the formation of drafts. If the slabs are laid in 2 layers, then the laying is done with a spaced seam. Vapor barrier in the interior partitions is not needed, but the insulation is covered with glassine on both sides so that the particles of the fibers do not penetrate into the room.


Floor insulation

For the correct arrangement of the frame house, it is necessary to make thermal insulation of the floor. In this case, the same scheme is used as for internal wall insulation. Foam or mineral wool is used as a heater. To do this, they dismantle the finishing floor, clean the internal surfaces, lay waterproofing and make a frame for insulation boards. Plates should be placed as close as possible to one another. Another layer of film is laid on top, covered with OSB or boards, on top of which a finishing coating is mounted.

Ceiling covering methods

Thermal insulation of the ceiling and roof are the most important components of home insulation. Most of the energy escapes through the upper structures. The ceiling can be covered with layers of mineral wool or foam, while the work is carried out both from the inside of the room and in the attic, closing the ceiling from above. The method of installation of insulation is similar to that used on the floor.


The internal method will avoid the appearance of excessive humidity in the room, but will take away part of the volume of the room. The outer one is easier, because working on the lower surface will not be as difficult as standing with the tool raised up.

It will have a beneficial effect on the temperature regime in the house and the insulation of the roof. To do this, a crate is mounted under the roof, which is filled with slabs of the selected material. Waterproofing is stretched under the slabs, covering both the roof and the beams with foil.

A beam with a section of 50x50 mm is stuffed between the rafters, plates are laid in the resulting boxes. The width of the plates should slightly exceed the gap of the box so that the insulation enters between the guides with force. A vapor barrier film is stretched over the plates and the ceiling is covered with drywall.


Windows and doors

To eliminate heat loss through windows, it is best to install double-glazed windows. But old windows can also serve as protection from the cold if they are repaired.

All broken and cracked glass should be replaced, the joints between the glass and the frame should be treated with silicone. All cracks in the frames must be puttied or sealed with sealant, and then painted.

If the drafts could not be defeated, it is necessary to identify the cracks through which heat loss occurs, and seal them with mounting foam. All opening parts should be glued with a sealant, and those that will not open in winter should be plugged with cotton wool or wet newspapers. Paper tape is glued on top. It holds heat well, and in the spring it will be removed without problems.

Doors must be upholstered around the edges with felt or a rubber strip. It makes sense to insulate a cold door leaf in the same way as walls. Transverse bars are stuffed onto the canvas, between which a heater is laid. OSB or plywood is stuffed over the structure.

The sound insulation, comfort and durability of the entire structure depend on how correctly and with what heat-insulating material the frame house is insulated. High-quality insulation will keep the heat inside the room for a long time, and save the amount of energy needed for its heating. That is why it is extremely important to know how to insulate a frame house for winter living inside and out.

Warming outside

One of the best options for thermal insulation of a frame building is cross-insulation.

Note! Insulation mats are always laid with a run-up of seams so that they do not match. This will help to avoid the appearance of blown cracks.

Cross-insulation allows you to block all cold bridges in the frame, which are wooden structural elements. To do this, on the outside of the house, in addition to the standard insulation with a layer of 15 cm, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation 5 cm thick.

To do this, bars of 50x50 mm in size are attached outside the frame in a horizontal position. They are installed alternately, from bottom to top, at a distance of 59 cm from each other (this distance depends on the width of the insulation used, 1 cm less than the insulation). After that, thermal insulation 5 cm thick is laid between them in the spacer. As soon as the entire insulation is installed, it is covered with a moisture-proof membrane. It will not only protect it from moisture and wind, but also keep the plates in the frame. Inside the house, the insulation will also not be able to fall out, since it is laid across the frame.


 Scheme of the cross-insulation pie of a frame house

Sheets of windproof film are overlapped, not less than 15 cm on top of each other. The membrane is fixed to the bars with a construction stapler. On top of the film, another crate is arranged with the help of bars measuring 5x5 cm - for mounting the finish coating and for creating a ventilation gap.

Warming from the inside

After the installation of the insulation outside the frame house is completed, they proceed to laying the first layer of thermal insulation 5 cm thick from the inside of the building. It is mounted in such a way that the plates are flush with all the jibs. The next layer is thermal insulation with a thickness of 10 cm. The entire frame between the uprights is completely filled with it.

After that, a high-quality vapor barrier membrane is attached from the inside, it will limit the ingress of steam into the insulation. It is laid with a smooth side to the thermal insulation, and a rough side inside the room. The sheets are overlapped, and the junctions are glued with double-sided tape. On top of it, it is mounted with crates with 5x5 cm bars for attaching the finish coating.

Note! The insulation cannot be rammed and pushed by force, since the thermal conductivity of mineral wool depends on the number of air voids in its structure.

Thermal insulation should be as free as possible between the racks of the frame, filling it completely, without gaps.


 The scheme of the pie of the internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

Insulation is also installed in the interior partitions, but not for the purpose of insulation, but as sound insulation. Mineral wool insulation, especially basalt, is a good soundproofing material. The slabs are laid with a layer of 100 mm (2 x 50 mm with a spacing of seams). For interior partitions, the installation of a vapor barrier membrane is not required, since the temperature in the room is approximately the same on both sides. Therefore, the heat does not tend to go outside, and does not impregnate the insulation with wet steam.

Note! For interior partitions glassine is used instead of vapor barrier. It prevents the infiltration of dust from mineral wool into the room. Close the insulation on both sides.

The insulation of the basement of a frame house is practically no different from the thermal insulation of the walls. In fact, this is the same wall, but in a horizontal position. From below, the floor is closed with a high-quality windproof membrane with an overlap on the strapping beam from all sides. The film is fixed with a subfloor so that the insulation laid in the frame does not squeeze out or tear it. Further, heat-insulating material is laid in 2 or 3 layers with a run-out of seams.

The basement should be insulated with a layer of 200 mm. A layer 15 cm thick is laid in the interfloor ceilings for the purpose of sound insulation, and the attic is thermally insulated with a layer of 250 mm.


 Scheme of insulation of the basement of a frame house

How not to damage the vapor barrier and other nuances

According to the standard scheme, for the insulation of a frame house, the installation of 150 mm of thermal insulation material is required.

But there are a few nuances to consider:

  1. The frame of the house itself transmits heat, since the coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood is much higher than that of any insulation.
  2. After installing thermal insulation on the outside of the building based on mineral wool, for example, basalt, it is imperative to close it with a windproof membrane, and from the inside it is covered with a vapor barrier film.

Since power networks pass inside the frame, the outputs are passed through the vapor barrier. As a result, the film becomes leaky, and part of the heat passes through the holes to the outside, letting the cold into the house. Even after gluing with special adhesive tape, the tightness of the structure cannot be guaranteed.

To avoid such a problem, you should make an additional crate on the inside of the frame and fill it with a 5 cm thick insulation. It is extremely important to equip it as evenly as possible using a building level or a laser level. Since in the future sheet material, for example, drywall, will be attached to it for finishing with a topcoat.

The lower beam of the crate should recede from the monolithic part of the foundation by about 15-17 cm. This is necessary so that when pouring the floor screed, it does not go on the crate and insulation.

Before mounting the frame, it is necessary to immediately take into account the dimensions of the insulation boards so that additional fasteners are not required. But at the same time, the center distance between the horizontal rails must be at least 120 cm (according to the size of the drywall sheet).

For a high-quality finish of a frame house, it is necessary to install two layers of drywall. The first is mounted in a horizontal position, and the second in a vertical position.


Thanks to this method, the sockets will be installed up to the vapor barrier layer, that is, its tightness will not be violated. In addition to all this, an additional crate with a 5 cm thick insulation will finally block all cold bridges and close the entire frame of the house, increasing the thermal insulation of the room.

When choosing heat-insulating and hydro- and vapor barrier building materials, preference should be given to manufacturers of well-known brands, whose products are time-tested, and also to have quality and safety certificates. Cheap heaters can quickly lose their heat-saving characteristics or be unsafe for indoor use.

Building materials for the construction of houses are able to provide a certain level of thermal insulation. But for high-quality protection, their thickness is not always enough. The degree of thermal protection depends on the density and thermal conductivity of the building material. Brick, cinder block and concrete have proven themselves from the best side in this regard. But the well-known foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm in terms of thermal insulation is equal to 60-70 cm of brick or a layer of concrete about a meter thick. Therefore, such materials are often used as heaters. They can also be used to insulate a frame house.

The cost of insulating any home pays off by reducing heating costs.

Practice shows that this takes from 2 to 5 years. Houses are usually equipped with thermal insulation inside and out. This procedure is especially relevant for the walls of a frame house. They have a small thickness of the skin and not the best tightness. Without insulation, a frame house is unsuitable for living. In winter, it must be heated almost continuously and spend a lot of money on it; in summer, the temperature in the building will be the same as on the street.

Materials for insulation

The comfort of life in the room largely depends on how correctly it is done. You can insulate the house with organic and synthetic materials. Organic heaters are peat, shavings, straw and some other materials of natural origin. Synthetic materials - polystyrene foam, polystyrene, mineral wool.

Synthetic insulation has better properties and is used more often than organic. The cheapest material is foam. But it must be treated carefully. It is very fragile, so you need to control the absence of cracks in it.

Insulation of any buildings, including a frame house, is performed by the following types of materials:

  • mineral wool with a specific density of 28-55 kg / cubic meter;
  • fiberglass wool with a density of 15-25 kg / cubic meter;
  • polystyrene with a density of about 20 kg / cubic meter;
  • XPS with a density of 20-35 kg / cubic meter.

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General rules for arranging thermal insulation

It is recommended to conduct insulation of a frame house from its outer side. With this option, the interior space of the room is not lost, moisture does not condense inside the building. It is better to choose a heater for a frame house in slabs. Their optimal thickness is 50 mm. The total thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be 100-250 mm. It depends on the climate in the area.

In frame houses, a layer of thermal insulation is usually placed between the walls of the structure. With this option for arranging thermal insulation, no usable space is lost either outside or inside. Insulation boards are placed between the frame posts. When laying them, you should adhere to a checkerboard pattern. This will avoid the appearance of cold bridges in the thermal insulation layer.

In some situations, the facade of the frame house is insulated outside the building. This method is somewhat more expensive, because it requires the purchase of some additional materials in the form of mounting umbrellas, special mixtures and additional plating.

You will definitely need a vapor barrier material and special superdiffusion membranes. The vapor barrier will additionally protect the interior from wind and moisture, and the membrane will prevent dampness from appearing in the insulation. The film is applied to the walls with an overlap of 15-20 cm, the seams are glued with moisture-resistant adhesive tape.

The membrane can be attached directly to the insulation. A ventilation gap of 20-40 mm is left between the membrane and the outer skin with the help of a mounted crate. When siding, the insulation is covered with OSB sheets, on which the membrane is attached. A gap of about 25 mm is made between it and the siding.

The most versatile and popular material for sheathing the frame is OSB sheets with a thickness of about 10-12 mm. From the bottom, the sheet covers the bottom trim of the frame completely. If the house is one-story, then this rule also applies to the upper trim. On the frame of a two-story house, the OSB sheet should go onto the racks of the top floor. This requirement is not categorical, but such an arrangement of OSB enhances the strength of the frame and gives the structure additional rigidity.

Window openings are recommended to be closed with a whole sheet, in which the opening is later cut with a jigsaw. For fixing OSB sheets, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws 4.5x50 mm. At the joints of the plates, the fastening step is 15 cm. The outer edges are fastened every 10 cm. For intermediate sections, a step of 30 cm is sufficient. A thermal gap of 3-5 mm must be left between the individual plates.

It is not recommended to replace the superdiffusion membrane with polyethylene or waterproofing film, as well as glassine. These materials have a very low vapor permeability, which does not allow the film to cope with the task of completely removing moisture vapor to the outside. The membrane is attached to the racks of the frame structure, covering the insulation. A crate of slats 20x50 or 30-50 mm is mounted on top of it to organize a ventilation gap. The lathing is sheathed with treated boards, sheets of LSU, DSP, OSB.

The vapor barrier film is attached in the same way as the membrane, but from the inside of the building. Both films are fixed on the surface of walls and racks with a construction stapler. Vapor barrier can be made with foamed polyethylene foil. This does not affect the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. In the same way, you can insulate the house with EPPS or foam. The gaps between the plates in this case are filled with mounting foam.

Scheme for arranging the thermal insulation of a frame house:

  • indoors, a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame bars;
  • the inner lining is mounted on the crate;
  • thermal insulation is installed between the frame bars;
  • outside the wall is covered with a layer of waterproofing;
  • outside, a crate is mounted on top of the waterproofing;
  • the outer trim material is attached to the crate.

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Insulation with mineral wool and ecowool

Most often, mineral wool is used. In addition to the excellent thermal insulation effect, it also has the properties of sound insulation and fire safety, has high mechanical strength and resistance to external factors.

There is such a heat-insulating material - ecowool. It is quite popular due to its affordable price and thermal insulation qualities. A layer of ecowool 13 cm thick is equivalent to a 60 cm thick aerated concrete wall. Ecowool is a cellulose fiber impregnated with boric acid and borax. It is sold in briquettes weighing approximately 15 kg. After loosening, it triples in volume. It fills the cavities between the racks of the building frame. Laying is done by filling method. After the material is poured into the cavity, it must be compacted. The disadvantage of this material is its possible shrinkage, leading to heat loss.

It can be applied wet. With special devices, ecowool is simply sprayed and sticks to the walls. This method does not shrink. But it can only be used before sheathing the outer walls, and this is far from always possible.

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Foam insulation (polyurethane foam)

Advantages of foam:

  • polystyrene does not absorb moisture, so there is no need for vapor barrier and moisture barrier films;
  • This material is characterized by low cost and weight.

Polyurethane foam consists of liquid components. Before use, they are mixed in certain proportions and foamed with a jet of air under pressure. The result should be a seamless monolithic surface. Additional protection with membranes and films is not necessary. Working with this material is similar to working with polyurethane foam.

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