How to use old window frames. What can be done from old window frames. In what cases it is impossible to reuse old plastic windows

After installing new structures, it is recommended not to rush to throw away old plastic windows, since in some cases they can last a long time. Since products made of PVC profiles are actively installed and operated for only about 15 years, their resource has not yet been exhausted. After all, even double-glazed windows can last 20 years, and window frame designs can last twice as long. In addition, today quite often completely new windows are changed in new buildings, which are extremely irrational to write off as scrap. All of these products can always be used, and this applies to people with different income levels.

Where can I use used plastic windows

The scope of old windows is quite large. There are not so many conditions for their reuse - you need the product to be intact, and the dimensions of the frames and openings in the new place to match. Today, used plastic windows are actively used at such facilities as:
  • country cottages;
  • workshops and small production shops;
  • change houses and gatehouses.

Also, old plastic windows may be suitable for installation in another apartment, since the dimensions of the openings in many typical multi-storey buildings may be the same. However, in this case, it is recommended to first consult with a specialist who will conduct it in those premises where the installation of used structures is planned.

In what cases it is impossible to reuse old plastic windows

If the profile structures are damaged, then the windows cannot be reused. This applies to all components, including imposts and sashes. Violation of the integrity of the profile most often provokes depressurization, and can also lead to deformations. Non-critical failures include the following:
  • violation of the integrity of the clamping beads - they can be replaced at any time;
  • unbalance of fittings - eliminated by adjusting, cleaning, lubricating and replacing failed elements;
  • problems with the seal - solved by installing new circuits.
In addition, used windows made of PVC profiles cannot be used in case of a significant discrepancy between the dimensions of the frames and the dimensions of the openings.

What if there is a slight difference in the size of openings and frames

Ideally, when the dimensions match completely, but this either requires a lot of luck, or it is necessary to build walls taking into account the dimensions of the window structures. Such situations are rare. More often you have to deal with a non-critical mismatch in size. If the opening is a little smaller, you can try to expand it. This is best done when the walls are built of foam blocks or bricks. The situation is more complicated with reinforced concrete structures, but in this case the problem can be solved with a good tool.

If the opening is slightly larger than the windows, then it is recommended to try to build up the frame using. These elements are also called expanders, as they increase the dimensions of the window sash. Thanks to them, it is possible not to lay the opening to the required width and height, which is far from always feasible. The expanders create the visual effect of a one-piece wide frame and have excellent thermal insulation.

Additional elements coincide with the frame profile and ensure the strength of the joints at the joints - thanks to special hooks, a lock is formed, which is distinguished by reliability and tightness. Also, these elements will compensate for the thickness of the insulation boards, which are recommended for finishing slopes. Today, a lot of expanders with different dimensions are on sale, so you can easily adapt the dimensions.

If a decision is made to expand the opening, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the external walls are load-bearing, so a violation of their integrity can lead to serious troubles. It is always necessary to consult with experienced builders before performing such work.

Dismantling with preservation

Old windows are suitable for reuse if dismantled and preserved. On OknaTrade it is described for old carpentry. The procedure for dismantling with the preservation of PVC profile structures has much in common with the basic technology. When removing plastic windows from the opening, it is recommended:
  • first remove all active sashes;
  • take out double-glazed windows;
  • find the location of fasteners.
The fixing anchors are usually unscrewed after the removal of the mounting seam, which also holds the entire structure. To get to it, it is necessary to dismantle the window sills with ebbs and remove the slopes.

Greenhouses from old plastic windows

Some gardeners find an original use for products from profile systems - they build greenhouses with their use in their summer cottages. At the same time, it must be understood that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsuch a structure will be small. A compact greenhouse made of windows is usually erected as a small extension on the south side of the country house. For reliable tight joining of individual frames, it is recommended to use a special connecting profile. The entrance door to such an original structure is one of the active doors. In order for plants to feel comfortable in such a greenhouse, it is necessary to equip the structure with microventilation valves.

If the house has unnecessary glass (whole or broken) that clutters up the space, do not rush to throw it away.

You can make a beautiful product out of it, or decorate existing items.

It's a good way release this material because handmade crafts and gifts are much more appreciated by people.

In this article we will tell you what can be done with whole or broken glass, how to make a herbarium in it or bake a flower, how to turn its surface into a matte or mirror, and other subtleties of craftsmanship.

Glass is a versatile material used in the creation of various interior items.

It is used to produce not only dishes and furniture, but also paintings and panels.

You can even give a second life to a broken object, using fragments and fragments.

There are different types of glass depending on application:

  • building;
  • porous;
  • liquid;
  • artistic, finishing, etc.

Such a variety of materials allows a skilled person to create unique kaleidoscopes, to make products of bizarre shapes and colors.

many crafts even a beginner can create, the main thing is to have the necessary tools, patience and desire.

First you need to determine what exactly you want to make from glass. There are many depends on the imagination of the author and resources available.

All products can be divided into categories:

  • household;
  • aesthetic.

Here are just a few examples:

  • candlestick decoration;
  • glass ornaments, flower arrangements;
  • small souvenirs made of broken glass;
  • thematic installations;
  • decoration of household items - dishes, chandeliers, mirrors.

Let's figure out in order what items can be made from old unnecessary glass.

A shelf

Glass shelves are popular because able to easily fit into any interior. In addition, they can withstand significant loads, although they seem fragile.

Glass furniture looks good in small rooms - because of the transparency, it seems less noticeable, so it does not visually take up space in the room.

The location must be accessible to adults, but out of reach of children(so that the child could not hang on it).

To make a shelf, you will need:

  • glass cutter (more convenient to use oil);
  • a belt-type grinder with an abrasive skin (the grit value should be 120 units);
  • respirator, gloves and other protective equipment;
  • rulers (you will need to periodically check whether the layers are even).

It is created in the following order:


Aquarium

To make it yourself, you will need:

  1. silicate glass premium.
  2. Glue containing silicone. Look carefully at the information on the packaging: it should indicate that it is suitable for aquariums (it does not contain antibacterial substances that harm fish and plants).
  3. About 8 pieces of small corners suitable for predetermined dimensions.

When gluing parts, you need to remember certain requirements:

  • the seams should be thick, at least 2-3 mm;
  • the outer edges must be sanded, and those under the glue should not be touched.

The build process itself looks like this:


Do not rush to immediately "transport" fish and other marine life here. Spend 3-5 hour hydrotest– fill it with water and check if the structure is leaking liquid, if the seams are leaking, etc.

Now you have an idea of ​​how to make your own aquarium at home.

Greenhouse

Glass is often used in the construction of wooden or metal greenhouses. This is a classic version of greenhouse structures, which allows you to maintain the necessary microclimate inside.

If you have accumulated a lot of leftover window glass, they can be successfully used to create a greenhouse.

In such a structure, the walls and roof are made of glass, which gives a number of advantages:

  1. The greenhouse can be used all year round. The material retains transparency, structure, appearance and thermal insulation properties.
  2. By connecting heating to it, plants can be grown in winter. In summer, transparent glass allows light to pass through, which allows plants to grow.
  3. Glass is resistant to abrasion and easy to clean.
  4. The walls of the building can be easily replaced in case of damage. The change will be inexpensive, and used glass is suitable for this.
  5. Glass does not emit harmful substances and odors even during thermal exposure. This is an environmentally friendly material, which is still easy to care for. The glass is resistant to chemicals used for cleaning.
  6. Reinforced or toughened type (thermal glass) can withstand large hail and other adverse weather conditions.

In addition to all these properties and an attractive appearance that lasts for years, this design has disadvantages:

  1. It is necessary to choose a reliable frame and prepare a solid foundation (a strip foundation can withstand such loads), since glass has a high weight. You can’t say that in appearance, but the material weighs a lot: for example, a 4 mm square glass weighs about 10 kg, and the mass of a 6 mm layer is 1.5 times more.
  2. Building a glass greenhouse will not be cheap.
  3. Glass holds shock and mechanical influences weakly.
  4. Glass has a high thermal conductivity, so it heats up and cools down quickly. This is especially harmful to plants during daily temperature fluctuations. Therefore, you need to take care of the system to maintain the desired temperature inside the room.
  5. A room made of glass can only be built in the form of a house.

It all starts with preparation:

  1. Creation of a drawing of a future greenhouse, determination of its dimensions.
  2. Choosing a suitable location. It is necessary to take into account the level of lighting, orient the room in such a way that the heat is distributed evenly.
  3. Accounting for the direction of the wind in a given area. It is best to protect the structure on the leeward side with some kind of object (bush or other small obstacle).
  4. Determination of soil and relief features. You need to choose a dry and level place.
  5. Calculation of the distance of the greenhouse to the nearest source of electricity and water supply. The closer, the easier it will be to build a system for heating and watering plants.

Below is shown, where not to be placed greenhouse. If you make the wrong choice, the greenhouse may collapse, or the grown plants will grow more slowly.

A reasonable solution would be to create a wall greenhouse. This is will save area, reduce the distance to water and electricity, and spend less money on construction.

Below is a typical drawing. You can change it to your desired size if you wish.

Based on drawing selected building materials. The foundation must be at least 0.5 meters in height and have a solid frame - metal or wood (bars or profiles measuring 5 by 5 cm, the distance between the posts - up to 0.8 m, based on the size of the glass and the frame itself).

You can use different types of glass. The main thing, so that they match the dimensions of the frame. For example:

  • single (2.5 mm thick) is suitable for side walls installed in a small wooden frame;
  • double (up to 3.5 mm) cannot be used as a top window;
  • display case (6 mm) will become a strong wall, but will need reliable fastening and supports;
  • multi-layer will fit in almost any part.

Pick up glasses according to the purpose of the building.

If there are tropical plants in the greenhouse, it is better to use laminated glazing, which will reduce the cost of internal heating.

Ordinary glasses are also suitable for greens and vegetables.

The best growth is provided by double-glazed windows. There are several types of them:

  • single-chamber;
  • two-chamber;
  • heat-saving;
  • energy saving.

Double-glazed windows from old plastic windows are perfect.

Need to prepare the following building materials:

  • supporting corners;
  • wooden bars or metal bases for each side of the frame;
  • beams;
  • mounting foam and hardware;
  • glass or double-glazed windows;
  • sealant (for fixing and insulating glazing);
  • details for the door (handle, lock, hinges);
  • corners on which wooden parts will be attached.

Cords, pegs, containers, buckets and shovels are needed for marking and preparing the foundation. A hacksaw, chisels, a glass cutter, an electric planer and a construction level will be needed when assembling the greenhouse.

Now that everything is ready, we will tell you in detail how to make a greenhouse.

Assembly is carried out in the following order:

  1. At the selected site, you need to plan the soil and remove vegetation. Make a marking under the trenches by installing pegs and cords.
  2. We dig trenches according to the planned markings (depth 0.4 m, width - 0.2 m). We will plan the bottom of the pit, fill it with a 10-centimeter layer of a mixture of crushed stone and sand.
  3. We assemble the formwork, check the height of the edges. We lay the welded mesh or steel reinforcement, fasten the anchors to the frame.
  4. We prepare concrete (a mixture of cement and sand 1: 3 with the addition of crushed stone and water). Pour the resulting solution and give it time to harden.

We lay two layers of roofing material directly on the surface of the foundation. They will protect the wooden frame from moisture. We process wooden blanks with an antiseptic.

Screw the frame support bars to the anchors, then make selections in the bars on which the glass will be attached.

We fix the racks and bars.

Make sure the structure is upright. Install braces and fix all elements with metal corners.

Connect all the remaining elements together. Check everything first for cracks and gaps, then make sure the structure is stable. When it is clear that the greenhouse stores heat, bring all the plants into it.

colored mosaic

For decorating surfaces, a special mosaic is suitable - smalt. But in its absence, you can use colored broken glass. By the way, smalt is also made from broken glass, you can read about it in detail.

To do this kind of work, you need to prepare:

  • drawing, glass base for mosaic (or plexiglass);
  • glass cutter, wire cutters and a special glass breaker for working with glass;
  • colored glass from which the mosaic will be made;
  • medical syringe, which is useful for applying the material;
  • transparent silicone;
  • tile grout (black).

Consider the manufacture of a mosaic in the form of a butterfly.

So, the finished drawing needs to be transferred from paper to a glass base. With the help of tools, we cut out wings from colored glass. Then cut with a glass cutter.

After they are separated from the base, you need lay them out on a prepared drawing.

Pieces of glass need to be coated with silicone, then glued to the glass base. For this, you will need a medical syringe.

When you glue the fragments, leave gaps between them. Later they will need to be filled with grout for joints.

It is necessary to overwrite the seams only after the silicone has grown.

Be sure to wear rubber gloves. The grout itself diluted according to instructions located on the package with the substance. The result is a mixture as thick as sour cream.

We apply it to the mosaic.

As you can see, it covered the entire surface of the product, and the seams were securely sealed. It remains only to remove the excess mixture from the glass. Do it you can use a wet sponge.

The procedure for creating any other mosaic is similar, the specifics of the work will vary slightly depending on the pattern.

Here is an example of another product made using the same technology:

As you can see, the mosaic is a versatile technique, with which you can decorate completely different interior items using broken glass.

The main thing is to apply contours in advance so that the resulting drawing looks organic.

Herbarium and flower in glass

This is a very unusual, rare and beautiful fake. This technique allows you to "perpetuate" any flower (or other object) in glass, making it an ornament (for example, a pendant).

Naturally, in order for the sheets to be visible, you need to use only transparent glass (designed for fusing or ordinary).

Of the tools, you may only need a special oven, a glass cutter and a machine for turning the edges of glass.

Needs to be cut and trimmed two circles of equal diameter, in the dimensions of which the flower will fit. Plus, you need to leave some space if you want to make a pendant (there will be a hole for the string in a small area).

By the way, this is a difficult operation, the end result is predictable. Difficult to control the process: the grass can burn out completely, or a clear silhouette remains.

To minimize possible damage, it is better to paint the flower in advance: even if the leaves burn out, the paint will retain the original shape of the flower and remain inside the glass.

You can approach the matter artistically by coloring the flower with transitions of shades.

You need to use only paints for fusing - they do not fade at high temperatures. After applying it, you need to let it dry.

We put the painted plant between the glasses and put it in the oven.

Need to pick up correct baking mode. It is selected depending on the glass used. The approximate range is 740-800 degrees.

Please note that between the glasses air bubbles may form. If after baking there will be few of them, and the sizes will be small, they can additionally decorate the product.

If the plant burns out only partially, it may turn out to be a little openwork, fibrous.

Photo frame

A more difficult operation will be decorating frames, panels and paintings.

Before you make a frame with glass, you will need to prepare:

  • fiberboard sheet of a suitable size (dimensions are selected based on the intended pattern);
  • broken glass (transparent and colored);
  • acrylic paints, gouache or ink;
  • glue.

A dense layer of acrylic paint is applied to the fiberboard sheet. Optional, can be covered with one or more shades. This is necessary to prepare the background. When everything is dry, the sheet must be inserted into the frame of the future product.

Then, on the future panel or picture, you need to apply the outlines of the planned drawing using a stencil or by hand.

For this, ink or gouache was needed - to circle the outlined lines twice and glue the fragments along them.

Having pasted them in the background area, you need to let the product dry.

Mirror

The easiest way is to decorate mirrors with fragments (colored or transparent). You can do this with vases, candlesticks, trays.

Since the essence of the decoration is gluing pieces of glass, be sure to wear rubber gloves before starting work, they will protect your hands from cuts and allergies to the substances contained in the glue.

On the surface of the object pre-mark the pattern, along which fragments will be laid out. Only ceramic glue is suitable, the layers of which must be applied using a special tool - scrapers.

If transparent glasses were used, they can be painted with acrylic paint intended for glass work.

After the layer with the fragments dries a little, holes between them can be closed putty for tiles, or cement for mosaics. You need to act carefully, but the surplus will still remain. You can remove them using a damp cloth.

Here is how mirror frames made in this style look like.

Similarly, you can decorate:

  • frames for photographs, mirrors, paintings;
  • flower pots;
  • caskets;
  • drawers;
  • countertops and other items.
  • accurately calculate the number of glass pieces (prepare paint to finish painting transparent fragments);
  • apply clear markings and indicate where and which layer will need to be laid.

Other items and decorations

The list of crafts is not limited to this. Here's how you can decorate the interior.

Painting from multi-colored cullet

All work can be done at home, having prepared in advance:

  • plywood;
  • finished drawing;
  • a bunch of multi-colored pieces of broken glass.

Plywood is needed as a base-frame on which the drawing with glued glass will be held. The picture itself can be drawn in advance, or you can take a suitable template.

Glue the pieces so that they fit snugly together. Better to use stronger adhesive. Try to keep them along the lines, observing the pre-planned color scheme of the picture.

In no case do not touch the glass until the glue dries, otherwise there is a risk of moving the pieces from their original place.

In addition to pieces of glass, you can use other elements for decoration:

  • beads;
  • seashells;
  • sequins;
  • buttons, etc.

Fusing drawing

You can make a multi-colored picture both with the help of mosaic and fusing technique. It consists in baking pieces of glass, pre-folded into a specific pattern. Whole operation carried out in a muffle furnace at high temperature (at least 800 °C).

This technique first appeared in the 1990s. in Germany, and it was based on another, more ancient method of glass processing - the “hot enamel” technique.

The main task is to correctly position the glass elements in advance so that as a result of heat treatment, they are combined into one whole. Consequently, the material becomes homogeneous, there are no metal compounds in such a product.

The image completely depends on the performer: you can make it more voluminous, convex, leave some areas flat, increase the thickness and relief of the stained glass.

All disparate parts are laid out on a glass base - the most even and flat surface. This creates the illusion of perspective, volume, depth of the product.

The use of colored pieces allows you to expand the color gamut. This is exactly what a glass base is needed for, since when working on a metal plate, this effect cannot be achieved.

This product is also quite durable. It practically does not age, the color remains unchanged.

The only negative in the heat treatment itself is this technique will not allow you to get clear contours of the image. Colored pieces inevitably float on each other and an effect similar to watercolor is obtained.

The use of liquid glass

Advanced craftsmen can create a craft using.

You can buy this material at a hardware or hardware store. Or use other types of liquid glass, for example, clerical silicate glue, which is often used to simulate the expanses of the sea.

But such a substitute will be less durable and hard than liquid glass.

Almost any object can be decorated with this material.

After applying a layer of liquid glass, apply decoration on it - pebbles, shells, beads, sparkles, etc.

If you want to make decorative elements more voluminous, apply two layers of liquid glass.

With liquid glass pretty easy to work. They can both decorate the surfaces of various objects, and make their own decorations:

  • hairpins;
  • earrings;
  • brooches;
  • figurines;
  • vases, etc.

You can decorate the interior with liquid glass in a simple way - apply small objects on a layer of glass according to a pre-designed pattern, then let the product cool.

Decor elements

What can be done if only small broken glass is at hand? It can be turn into powder and use as decoration.

To grind it into powder safety precautions must be followed:

  • use gloves, goggles;
  • find a deep enough and strong container.

The resulting broken glass powder is applied to the selected object in the areas where the glue was previously applied. Once the glue dries, you can cover it with another layer. By analogy, powder can be used to paint pictures, decorate interior items.

In addition to glass, you can additionally decorate objects with the following materials:

  • shells (sea or river) and shells;
  • beads or beads of a suitable size;
  • walnut shells and other improvised materials.

The task is to choose the right combination of all decorative materials, then the product will look beautiful and organic.

Making black, white and colored paint for house glass

How to make glass colored, white or apply a pattern to it at home?

Glass surfaces must be treated with special paints that have good grip on smooth surfaces. Conventional paints and varnishes are not capable of this, so the coating is quickly erased.

The composition of the paint should not be too liquid, but it should be applied in thin and translucent layers.

Acrylic paints are best suited for liquid glass. They have good adhesion, and on the planes they look like a matte film. Even when mixed, they retain color purity and are resistant to ultraviolet rays.

You can paint the surface with polyurethane mixtures. This is an elastic substance that instantly hardens on glass. Layers are perfectly transparent.

Compositions can be made independently.

Here are a couple of recipes:

  1. White paint is prepared by mixing four parts of silicate glue and one part of kaolin (it must be thoroughly rubbed).
  2. Black shades are created by mixing one part charcoal with three parts silicate glue and one part printing ink. The resulting mixture must be filtered.

Various colored dyes can be made using special fabric dyes.

The order is as follows: dissolve 5 g of gelatin in 200 ml of water, after which we dilute the necessary coloring matter in a separate bowl. The required shade is obtained by gradually mixing the contents of the two prepared solutions.

Prepare the following tools in advance to paint the glass with paint:

  • spray;
  • end brushes with bristles;
  • paint roller or foam swab.

Pre-treat glass:

  1. Wipe the glass with soapy water, then rinse first with warm and then with cold water.
  2. Apply acetone to degrease the glass. Solvent traces can be removed with a simple dry cloth.
  3. Those places that do not need to be painted should be protected. Apply one or two coats of masking tape to these areas.

Instructions for staining glass at home:

  1. Prepare the mixture and pour it into a small bowl (this will make it easier to apply paint to the surface).
  2. Paint glass using a brush, spray gun, foam swab or roller. Watch out so that the layers are evenly distributed over the entire surface.
  3. Once the paint is dry, remove the pieces of masking tape. If some areas are weakly colored, apply an additional layer.

How to make it opaque?

To achieve a frosted glass texture, you can:

  • chemical and mechanistic methods;
  • using a sandblaster.

Follow the instructions below and you will learn how to make glass opaque.

It is easier and safer to use a mechanical method based on the use of abrasive paste or sand.

You need to take polished glass with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm, put it on a flat surface, placing a thick cloth under it.

On the sides of the glass, you need to nail thin spatulas so that it does not slide on the table.

Prepare sand (river or corundum is best: it scratches glass more smoothly), then sift it through a sieve until smooth.

After that, apply sand to a board measuring 20 by 30 cm and moisten it with water. Put glass on top of the board, and any weight on top of the glass so that it firmly presses it to the surface.

Move the board parallel to the side edges of the glass. Never make circular motions.

Moisten the sand as it dries.

Periodically check if the frosting process is successful by scraping sand from the surface and pulling the glass out to the light. Continue the process until you get the expected result.

Create a mirror surface

How to make a mirror? First you need to grind our glass, wetting its surface with water.

Required in advance prepare the following items:

  • glass;
  • containers in which the solution will be prepared and mixed with silver;
  • rubber gloves;
  • silver (nitrate) and tin (dichloride);
  • distilled water, caustic potash or soda;
  • honey, ammonia and formalin;
  • alcohol, cotton wool;
  • colorless varnish;
  • glass rod and nitric acid;
  • a spray bottle with which the mixture will be applied to the glass, plus a brush with soft bristles;
  • frame or wooden sheet with clips;
  • dye.

We put on rubber gloves and carry out all work exclusively in them.

Further, when manipulations with glass are carried out, hold it carefully by the ribs, otherwise you risk stain a smooth surface. This is important because the material will often need to be dragged from place to place, washed and applied to various substances.

The procedure is as follows:

  1. We wash the glass with distilled water and crushed chalk. All sides must be clean, incl. ends.
  2. We treat the surface with an alkali degreasing solution (sodium or potassium, with a content of about 10%).
  3. Rinse the glass again with distilled water.
  4. Wipe clean glass with a cotton swab dipped in 1% stannous chloride solution. Then immediately place the mirror in a container filled with distilled water. Let him get wet.
  5. While the glass is filled, clean and degrease (with the same alkaline solution) the container in which you plan to silver the glass. Please note that the surface temperature of the future mirror in water should be 10 degrees higher than that of the solution induced for silvering.

Would need prepare two solutions with the content that will cover the glass. Use only distilled water for this:

  1. The first solution consists of silver nitrate (1.6 g) and water (30 ml). After mixing them, watch what kind of sediment you get. Drip 25% ammonia into it until it disappears, then add another half a glass of water.
  2. Pour 40% formalin solution (5 g) into the second graduated container.
  1. Lay the glass in a horizontal position on the surface prepared for silvering.
  2. Now start covering the glass: pour the resulting solution into the middle, roll it out in an even layer using a glass rod. Alternatively, dip the glass into the chemical mixture so that the silver does not get on the opposite side.
  3. The solution needs to freeze. It takes 3-10 minutes to "mirror" it, depending on the initial temperature of the mixture.
  4. When everything is dry, you need to put the mirror upright. Until the silver layer is fixed, it may be damaged, so lean the product against the support with the unfinished side.
  5. The mirror needs 2 hours to dry at a temperature of up to 100 degrees.
  6. Examine the received product. Silver drips can be wiped off with cotton wool with a solution of nitric acid.
  7. Rinse the mirror first in water and then in alcohol.
  8. The silver layer should have cooled down by this time. Spray it with clear varnish from a spray bottle.
  9. When the varnish dries, paint the darkened surface. Then paint the silvered part with red lead, spreading it in turpentine. The glass part must be wiped with a solution of nitric acid.
  10. Let everything dry and look at the result. If everything suits you, it remains only to put the mirror in a frame with clips.

How to make a hole?

A hole in glass can be drilled with:

  • flexible shaft drills;
  • dental burs.

The structure itself amenable to mechanical processing, but the fragility of glass must be taken into account. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the force and points of impact, as well as the order of work.

Processing should not lead to cracks, breaks and chips on the main surface, otherwise the entire product may break.

Before making a hole, you need to prepare the glass for processing. The work surface must be cleaned and leveled. Watch for the presence of defective areas - under mechanical stress, they can chip and ruin the workpiece.

First, make a markup: mark the lines of future holes in such a way that the surface flaws are located inside the circle and do not go beyond it. Additionally can be treated with chemicals, ridding it of oil traces.

Determine where the work will be done. It is necessary to prepare the fixing equipment.

The very method of fixing the glass is determined based on the chosen technology for creating the hole.

Usually, the workpiece is placed in a vise, and under the areas that will be affected, they put damping soft materials.

What if you need to make a small hole?

Miniature holes can be drilled with a drill and drill. The drill is pre-needed:

  • glow;
  • immerse in sealing wax and hold until the substance begins to melt;
  • moisten the tip in turpentine.

After that, you can start working.

The second option is:

  1. Grind camphor and particles of coarse sandpaper.
  2. Pour the resulting elements into a small container, and then dilute them with turpentine. Place this paste on a clean glass surface of the workpiece.
  3. Prepare a small piece of copper wire. It will need to be clamped in the drill chuck. Such equipment needs to be sent, so prepare a guide jig (plywood).
  4. Preparation completed. You can start drilling.

Large holes in glass are made in a different way. If needed diameter exceeds 10cm, household equipment will not help here.

You can still drill, but you must first make a small through point in the center of the future hole.

Any small-format glass of small diameter (up to 1 cm) will cope with this. Third-party chips will occur, but this is not a problem: they form in areas that will later be removed.

Having received a small through opening, you need to stick a piece of wire into it and fix it.

One end is fastened with a glass cutter. After checking whether the elements are securely fixed and whether the tool moves smoothly in a circle, you can cut the circle.

If you can't drill a hole, you can melt it. You will need to prepare a tooling in which liquid tin or lead will be prepared. The glass blank is processed with gasoline, acetone or alcohol.

Having made the markup and formed the zone of the future hole, the resulting area is sprinkled with moistened sand.

It should be enough to create a funnel, the bottom of which will be comparable in size to the edges of the hole, then metal is poured into it.

After 1-2 minutes, it will cool down, and the sand equipment can be removed along with the mold.

As a result, in a glass blank a hole with smooth edges is formed. The risk is only in the melting process itself: it is impossible to control the diameter that is formed after the interaction of glass and metal.

The last option is to cut a hole with a soldering iron. You need to start by creating risks with a needle file.

Carefully mark the zones in which the soldering iron will melt in depth.

Then you need to warm up the sting and start cutting. Act slowly and carefully.

It is better melt small pieces, periodically cooling the glass (so the risk of formation of deformation of nearby areas will decrease).

The result will be exactly the opposite of the above method:

  • the boundaries of the intended diameter of the hole will be maintained;
  • the edges will be uneven.

Related videos

findings

As you can see, unnecessary or broken glass is suitable for decorating the decoration of the room with handmade items. The main thing is desire and imagination.

You can also decorate other glass containers.

If you don’t want to work on crafts, don’t throw away glass anyway. Take it to or to a special container for collecting glass.

In contact with

Arbor from window frames in the photo

This version of the gazebo-kitchen with an eight-pitched roof has a frame structure and an octagonal shape in plan. It is planned to close the openings between the pillars of this building with glazed window frames (from mosquitoes, wind, rain, etc.).

Since it is now common to replace old windows with plastic ones, such window frames can be found at garbage bins in any area of ​​\u200b\u200bany city, which means that they will cost nothing and for construction you will need to spend money only on materials for the foundation, frame and roof.

The octagonal gazebo is a traditional Swedish house, only in this case most of the walls will be made in the form of windows.

The construction of the gazebo-kitchen takes place in stages and in a certain order.

STEP #1
STEP #2

STEP #3
STEP #4

STEP #5
STEP #6

STEP #7
STEP #8

An octagonal gazebo made of glazed window frames can be placed closer to the center of the site, then from all the windows of the building it will be possible to admire the landscape and observe what is happening around. It will be a kind of command post. At the same time, being outside, it will be possible to monitor what is happening inside the gazebo, for example, if something on the stove caught fire.

On a note!

Inside, such a gazebo can be arranged according to your taste and discretion. A kitchen block can easily fit here - a gas or electric stove, home-made cupboards for dishes and kitchen utensils, a refrigerator and, of course, a sink. In another part, closer to the center, you can put a large dining table with a bench, chairs or armchairs. If desired, you can install a TV, music center, hang a hammock here. And you can use a regular metal brazier by installing it next to the gazebo.

The foundation for a gazebo from window frames with your own hands must be made from eight single concrete blocks that are laid on the ground at the corners of the gazebo. Under each block, it is necessary to dig a hole on the bayonet of a shovel, the width and length of which is approximately three times the size of the block. Then sand should be poured into the bottom of the pits and carefully compacted to make a layer 5-10 cm thick. Concrete blocks are placed in prepared pits and leveled.

Building walls - using a frame for a gazebo with your own hands imposes a restriction on the width and height of the structure.

On top of the foundation blocks, it is necessary to lay waterproofing from a roofing material folded in half, and then a lower trim is made from a bar with a section of 100 x 150 mm. The corner joints of the beams can be assembled with a half-tree cut, placing them exactly above the foundation blocks. The crossbars must be cut into the longitudinal bars of the strapping also half a tree. The joints of the beams can be strengthened with nails 120 mm long, hammering two nails into each joint.

Next, in the corners of the assembled strapping, you need to install racks from a bar with a section of 100 x 150 mm. The distance between adjacent pairs of posts should be given by the width of the window frames and the door(s). Each rack must be set strictly vertically along the plumb line, fixed with temporary struts, and then attached below to the strapping of the beams with two nails, hammering them from both sides perpendicular to one another.

Then, at a height of about 50 cm from the strapping bars, it is necessary to cut the window sill boards between the racks strictly vertically, without distortions, after which you can remove the temporary struts and replace them with permanent ones. Then you should check the height of all eight racks, and if everything is correct, you can mount on them the upper harness from the same beam with a section of 100 X 150 mm, which should exactly repeat the dimensions of the bottom one. It should be attached to the posts with nails 200 mm long.

Look at the gazebos from the frames in the photo, which shows the finished structures:

Arbor from old frames
Arbor from frames

Gazebo for giving
DIY pavilion

For the roof, you must first install a truss truss. To do this, you need to temporarily tie the bars of the upper trim located opposite each other crosswise with two pairs of coupler boards. This design will simultaneously serve as a guide supporting the central column in a vertical position, and a construction bridge for "high-altitude" work. Also, for the convenience of further work in the center of the gazebo, you need to install a temporary auxiliary vertical rack. At the bottom, near the floor, it can be knocked out with wedges, and in the upper part, an octagonal lock insert can be attached to it. In order for the auxiliary rack to be stably held in a strictly vertical position, it is necessary to additionally nail it with two nails to the coupler boards nailed to the bars of the upper harness.

Edged boards with a section of 50 x 100 mm will go to the rafters. The upper end of each rafter should rest on the central octagonal insert, and the lower end on the upper trim bar, on which you need to select grooves in advance that correspond to the thickness and angle of inclination of the rafter. Rafters should be installed in pairs from two opposite sides, nailing them to the liner and timber. To prevent the nails from “going” to the side when driving, you must first drill pilot holes in the rafters. The sides of the upper ends of the rafters are recommended to be slightly trimmed so that they fit better.

Next, a continuous roof crate is made from a lining board, which must be laid with the front (planed) side down. When laying, the ends of each flooring board must be nailed to the rafters with two nails to ensure the rigidity of the roof structure and to exclude the appearance of a bursting force on the belt of the upper trim and the wall. In this case, the roof will rest on the walls of the building as a rigid "cone".

The roof of the gazebo is made of galvanized sheet steel. Pre-painted metal sheets must be marked out, blanks of the required shape and size must be cut out of them and alternately fastened to the crate using roofing screws with rubber washers. To protect the gazebo from possible leaks, the joints of the roof sheets from above must be closed with corners cut and curved from the same sheet metal.

Hello! In one of my previous works, I showed how it was made, it turned out pretty well, something like a corner for relaxation, but something was missing. What was missing was an outdoor table. Just after replacing one of the windows, I still have an unnecessary double-glazed window, its dimensions are 1m * 0.9m, almost a flat square. There are no difficulties in manufacturing, you can do it in just a few hours, unless, of course, you count the time until the paint dries. Tools needed for making: - Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- corner;
- roulette;
- rubber compressor;
- a drill with a diamond nozzle;
- dye.
Table materials:

- double-glazed window 1m*0.9m;
- corner 25, 4 pieces according to the size of the double-glazed window;
- pipe 30, 4 pieces of 70 cm;
- pieces of reinforcement for struts 8pcs, 17cm each.

Table making

First of all, we cut off all the protruding gum from the double-glazed window so that it does not interfere in the future when we install the glass into the frame from the corner. It cuts very easily with a regular knife.


Next, you need to weld a frame from the corner, clearly suitable for the size of the double-glazed window. Welds must be made from the outside and then cleaned with a grinder. I also rounded the corners of the frame a little more.

The next step is to weld the legs of the table. I cut them out of a pipe 30 p 70 cm each, but you can do whatever sizes you like. The most important thing is to weld them evenly, and a square with a right angle helps a lot with this.

The first stability test of the table showed that it is quite possible to leave it like that, but still, for greater rigidity, small spacers from pieces of reinforcement can be installed. The main thing is that the cat likes everything)))

I welded pieces of reinforcement, one on each side of the leg.

That's all, the frame is completely ready and now it remains only to clean it well and paint it. A little advice: if you do the same, clean the blanks before you weld everything together, it will be much easier.




Then I laid a rubber band along the bottom of the corner, it will serve as a seal between the metal and glass. I can’t say what kind of tape this is, because I don’t know, it looks like bandage rubber, only thinner.

The edges of the glass are very sharp and in order to avoid injuries with a drill and a diamond grinding nozzle, they need to be cleaned and rounded. Everything is done very easily and quickly.

Important! use a respirator and goggles, as glass fine dust flies a lot.