How to make a ceiling from pvc plastic panels. Ceiling made of plastic (PVC) panels in the bathroom. Disadvantages of ceilings made of plastic panels

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling of plastic panels is usually made plain. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - then small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, you need to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, because the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same strips, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is even and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

When installing a false ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the strips or profiles first around the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - spacing.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fix it on the screws (brackets). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with an ordinary drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done immediately, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. Having tried it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sags that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth to a shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for the dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

The plastered ceiling, no matter how beautiful it looked at the beginning, needs repair over time - cracks appear, paints fade. Again take on a difficult, time-consuming task? But you can work once and for many years - find out how!

Plastic on the ceiling - a pressing issue for many

The ceiling of plastic panels is the easiest and most budget option to forget about the need for constant repairs. Anyone who has a desire can mount it - many years of experience in construction work is not needed, you just have to listen to our recommendations and be careful in your work. Ceiling panels are very light and fragile, so careless handling leaves a mark, and it is impossible to repair the damage.

Until recently, few people imagined what could be done with the ceiling. Plastered, whitewashed or painted with a water-based emulsion. Wallpapering the ceiling was considered chic. Modern solutions in the form of suspended, stretch, mineral, mirror, plasterboard and other ceilings have significantly expanded the design possibilities. All finishing methods are interesting and good, but most of them can only be done by specialists.

The variety of finishing materials is amazing. Modern innovations are simple and reliable, but the price of many is not democratic. We suggest paying attention to materials made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). They can easily and profitably hem ceilings without resorting to the help of specialists. The value for money is the best. With minimal material costs, you will receive an unusual suspended ceiling of a European-style repair.

The color schemes of plastic panels for the ceiling please with their variety. They will decorate any room in an apartment or a country house. Low ceilings will visually become higher, and if we talk about the kitchen, bathroom - this is generally a unique thing for such rooms: cheap and beautiful. But in pursuit of originality, one should not choose defiant, or even annoying, shades. Calm pastel colors visually increase the volume of the room, give a feeling of comfort.

PVC panels on the ceiling - an overview of the main varieties

Building materials stores offer a wide selection of PVC panels. They have different lengths and widths, white with gloss or matte, with patterns and patterns, imitation of wood or marble. You can choose for every taste, the main thing is not to confuse panels for ceilings with wall panels. At first glance, they are no different. But there is a difference, it is in weight and rigidity. Walls are heavier and more rigid. The installation of light and soft ceiling panels is more convenient. The whole variety of PVC panels can be classified according to several criteria:

features of the decorative coating;
form of manufacture;
sizes.

There is no coating on matte white panels. The builders gave them the name "in their pure form", they are the cheapest among all. Once installed, they look like white-painted ceilings. Mainly used in utility rooms.

Glossy white ceiling panels are made with a special varnish that adds shine. They have high reflective properties, which allows them to be used in any room. The monetary and decorative value of such products is higher compared to matte ones.

Colored or patterned panels are produced using different technologies for decorating plastic surfaces. The most common way is to use thermal film, from which the pattern is transferred to the panel. For more complex patterns - ornaments, imitation of expensive woods, marble with many shades - the most modern technologies are used, for example, high-resolution photo printing. Its application requires special equipment, and therefore the panels decorated in this way are the most expensive.

PVC mirror panels stand somewhat apart. To get a mirror effect, a special film is glued to the surface. This finish is typical for many restaurants, exhibition and shopping centers, swimming pools and sports clubs. But even in an apartment, such a panel ceiling is appropriate, it expands the space, gives sophistication. But condensation is clearly visible on it, especially in wet rooms, as well as pollution, which requires constant care.

PVC panels

Seam panels are designed to simulate a ceiling made of wooden lining. After installation, small grooves between the panels are distinguished. And between the individual strips of seamless panels, the joints are almost invisible. Sometimes, if desired, they are sealed with a suitable color of sealant to completely hide the seams. Seam panels highlight the imitation of a type-setting surface, seamless, on the contrary, emphasize solidity.

Product sizes may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. They are 2.5–4 meters in length, from 10 cm to half a meter wide, and 5 to 12 mm thick. Products with standard dimensions are most common, their dimensions are: length - 4 m, width - 25 cm, thickness - 9 mm.

Profiles - the most common types

To install the panels, you will need profiles for the frame and trim. Frame profiles are metal and plastic. Metal profiles with fasteners are used the same as for drywall. They come in two varieties: 25x25mm UD and 25x60mm carrier CD. They are fastened to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or dowels - directly or with the use of suspensions, if it is necessary to increase the distance between the base and the suspended ceiling.

Plastic frame profiles are appropriate in rooms where humidity is high: bathroom, kitchen, utility rooms. They are attached to the ceiling with dowels, and the panels to them are fastened with metal clamps, which are inserted into the grooves of the profile. Sometimes plastic profiles are installed on top of metal profiles or wooden slats, perpendicular to their direction after 40–50 cm.

Instead of purchased profiles, you can use wooden blocks. They are cut into sizes of 10–40 × 40–50 mm. Their thickness depends only on the desired distance from the draft ceiling to the plastic one. They are attached to the concrete ceiling with dowels, to the wooden one - with self-tapping screws. Wooden slats should only be used in dry rooms, as wood is prone to rotting. But even in this case, they should be treated with an antiseptic.

To sheathe the ceiling with a profile and give it a beautiful and finished look , you will need special PVC profiles (moldings). The most common of them:

F - closes the ends, joints with openings of windows and doors;
H - connects the panels along the length;
G - external, internal, universal - joins panels in the corners;
starting U-shaped - fastened along all walls, closes the ends of the panels.

Finishing the false ceiling near the walls is carried out with a special profile. It is made with a decorative border that hides the ends. The profiles are painted in various colors or unpainted, they can be matched to any kind of PVC.

Plastic ceiling - about the advantages and disadvantages

The growing demand for PVC plastic for finishing the ceiling in apartments and country houses is explained by its advantages:

1. Plastic is moisture resistant, not afraid of damage by pests and microorganisms. It can be used in damp and unheated rooms.
2. Ease of installation does not require the involvement of specialists, you can install a plastic ceiling with your own hands. No special equipment needed, all tools are available.
3. Suspended structure hides wiring, pipes, other engineering communications, it is possible to mount built-in lamps in it. It is possible to mount a plastic ceiling on an uneven draft, it will hide all its flaws.
4. The space between the base and the ceiling can be insulated, soundproofed. You can install acoustic ceilings for greater protection from extraneous noise.

Some disadvantages relate, first of all, to the characteristics of the material and its decorative effect. It is inflexible, which allows you to arrange the structure in only one plane: multi-level, rounded, with an irregular shape are not available for this material. Many PVC products look too economical, suitable for the corridor, kitchen and similar rooms. But at the same time, expensive mirrored PVC panels, colored products with thermal printing look beautiful in the living room and office.

If you use thin panels behind which recessed lights are installed, they can transmit light. If you plan to install such fixtures, you should not buy too thin panels. On ceilings, with the exception of seamless mirrors, seams are always visible. After installing the panels, you will notice that the ceiling has become a few centimeters lower.

What is required - how to calculate how much material is needed

To calculate how much material is needed, we first measure the ceiling in length and width. When choosing panels on suspended PVC, we try to purchase products whose length is a multiple of one of the dimensions of the ceiling in the room. For example, if the ceiling is 2.8 m, then you should buy six-meter plastic. It can be cut in two, the waste will be 0.4 m from each strip. It is for the purpose of reducing waste that a multiple of the length of the strip is chosen.

As for the number of plastic strips, this can be determined by knowing the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling. It is equal to the length multiplied by the width. From the packaging on the panels, we find out the area of one strip. We divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling by the area of \u200b\u200bone strip, the resulting number is an indicator of the required number of products. But you should remember about waste: for this, add 15% to the resulting number, round up.

You want to know how many profiles you need. Along the perimeter we install rigid UD profiles, and the cross bars of the supporting structure are made of a lightweight CD profile. If everything is clear with a rigid UD profile - its total length is equal to the total length of all sides, then the footage of the transverse profiles is a little more difficult to calculate. We draw a scaled ceiling on a piece of paper in a box, mark the transverse profiles in the figure after 50 cm. We calculate how much is needed, multiply by the length of one transverse profile. The resulting number is divided by 3 (the length of one frame profile).

We calculate how many dowels are needed for the frame and self-tapping screws on the panel. We proceed from the fact that they are fastened at intervals of 50 cm. If wooden bars are used, 6 mm staples can be used instead of self-tapping screws. We take a little more, it is better to have a reserve than not enough in the midst of work. The process will go faster, the staples will be cheaper, but there will be much fewer self-tapping screws. It remains to find out the quantity. Divide the perimeter by 3 and round.

Panel selection – design and quality

A few words about the choice of panels. We pay attention to two things: quality and design. Choosing the texture and color, we focus on the general style of the room, but dark tones for the ceiling should be avoided. Traditional colors are pastel, blue, beige. Panels that use more than two colors should be avoided.

Having decided on the design, we proceed to the purchase. It is important to buy quality products, pay attention to the following:

smooth edges - this will ensure high-quality and fast connection;
uniform color, smooth color transitions;
do not take too thin and soft panels.

You can check the quality of the plastic. Strongly squeeze the corner of the panel with your fingers, bend it several times. High-quality material is only slightly deformed, bad material will break.

Preparation for installation - measure and mark

The draft ceiling will be closed with suspended plastic, but even so, it should be prepared. With a metal spatula, we remove the plaster in all places where it exfoliates. We also remove, if any, the old finish, putty between the plates, exfoliated whitewash. In a word, we do everything so that later nothing falls on . We prime the entire surface of the ceiling.

We proceed to determine the line for installing a rigid UD profile. Some circumstances should be taken into account:

if open wiring is laid along the draft ceiling, the distance from it to the top point of the frame is left at least 2 cm;
for lamps hidden in the ceiling, we also leave a place depending on their height;
take into account the unevenness of the ceiling.

We determine the lowest point and put a mark on one of the walls. It is determined based on the lowest place on the ceiling. Then the label is transferred to all walls, we put two on each at different ends. We use what is available. We outline the lines along the walls, for which we use a simple device. We rub the twine abundantly with colored chalk, pull it between two marks on the wall, pull it off with our hand and let it go sharply. The impact will leave a chalk line on the wall.

It happens that the floor and ceiling are not level, even in apartment buildings. If there are no opportunities for correction, we deviate somewhat from the strict level and draw a line so that there is no visual difference in the planes.

We create the basis - the rules and sequence of installing the profile

First, we fasten the profile to the wall along the marking line, if it is metal, then UD. We cut pieces along the length of the walls, drill holes for dowels in them every 50 cm. We apply them to the walls, mark the places of fastening and drill holes for dowels along them, fix them on the wall. The distance from the bottom edge to the base should be at least 2.5 cm.

Before drilling into a wall, make sure that there are no hidden wiring or junction boxes in these places. If you hit them with a drill, the easiest thing that can happen is a short circuit.

After installing them, we mount the main ones - CD or wooden bars. We cut pieces of the required length, given that the panels will be fixed perpendicular to the profile. We fix them directly to the ceiling or use suspensions if the distance to the ceiling exceeds 25 mm. The rigidity of the structure depends on the step between the fasteners, the smaller it is, the stronger the frame. If you plan to install a heavy ceiling lamp, in the place where it will be attached, we install an additional mount.

Using self-tapping screws and press washers, we fasten the starting profile to the guide. The distance between the attachment points is 50 cm, or less. The wide side of the starting profile should face up. We do this carefully so as not to accidentally damage the front side. To join the starting profiles in the corners, sometimes a miter box is used, the ends are cut at an angle of 45 °. But there is an easier and faster way: at the corner we thread them into each other, then cut them with a sharp knife, getting the perfect docking point.

We mount panels - a sequence of actions

We cut the first panel 5 mm shorter than the distance between opposite walls. For cutting, we use a hacksaw for metal, a jigsaw or a grinder. We take sandpaper or an abrasive mesh and clean the ends. We handle the panels carefully so as not to wrinkle. Sometimes there is a film on the profile, which must be removed before installation. Then we proceed to install the strip in place.

We insert the plastic into the groove of the starting profile with a narrow end until it stops, slightly bend it down and insert it from the other side. We raise the strip until it touches the transverse profiles and carefully slide the long side into the groove. It may happen that somewhere stuck, plastic is not included. Carefully help with a narrow thin spatula. If you do not rush and do not make excessive efforts, everything will turn out right. The connection nodes are all standard, if a hitch occurs, it is only due to a slight deformation of plastic products.

We fasten the panel to each profile with special self-tapping screws. We are extremely careful not to break the bit. If this happens, it will certainly damage the panel, and then nothing can fix it, you will have to remove it. For reliability, first drill a hole in the profile, and then screw in the self-tapping screw. But this is time consuming, because you have to change the bit and drill. We insert the second and all subsequent panels in the same way.

The installation of the last strip is the most difficult operation in the installation of panels. Different methods are used, but first they measure the width of the remaining gap, draw a line on the panel and cut a plastic strip along it. It is better to take the width so that the strip does not rest against the depth of the guide profile, and after docking with the previous panel, it only lies a little in it. Cut to length using the same approach. Due to the smaller size, it is possible to insert the panel into the guide profiles, it remains only to dock with the previous one. We use masking tape, which we stick on the last panel, and tighten it.

Finishing - finally bringing beauty

After installing all the strips, we begin the finishing. When using a U-shaped profile, we install a separate plinth along the entire length. We fasten it with liquid nails, applying glue only on one side of the plinth, that is, we fasten it only to the ceiling or wall. If it is collapsible, just snap the mate. We install coupling adapters in the corners or use a putty that matches the color.

In places that are marked in advance, we make holes for spotlights. To keep them neat, we use a crown. In size, it is selected 4 mm less than the outer diameter of the lamp, but larger than the diameter of the inner part. Wiring should be carried out during the installation process, and the fixtures should be connected upon completion of all work. We fasten the chandelier on a hook to a pre-installed additional profile.

Polyvinyl chloride is a material widely used in various fields of activity, it also finds its application in construction. PVC panels are made for walls and ceilings. Due to their low cost, resistance to adverse external influences and durability, such panels are well suited for finishing ceilings in the bathroom. Installation here does not require high qualifications and expensive equipment, it is enough just to familiarize yourself with the algorithm for its implementation, which will be described in this material.

Advantages and disadvantages

But there are a number of disadvantages that should also be kept in mind.

If the bathroom is too large, such a ceiling may look inorganic, since the panels have a limited length (3 meters).
Installation on a metal frame lowers the height of the ceiling by several centimeters.
Complex design solutions, such as a multi-level ceiling and its bends, are not feasible here.

As you can see, the disadvantages of this type of ceiling are insignificant and outweighed by its advantages.

Required inventory

To equip a PVC ceiling yourself, you will need the following set of materials.

Decorative profiles are used to give the ceiling a preferred edging, their varieties are presented in the table.

Table. Types of decorative profiles for suspended ceilings made of plastic panels.

Profile types	Purpose
	Hides panel ends
	Hides corner joints
	Connects two standard profiles if their length is not enough
	Completely hides all ends

Execution of works

Step 1. Draw up a work plan. It is not necessary to strictly comply with all the rules for the technical design of drawings, but it is important to accurately fix all dimensions and intervals.

Reference! There is an option for decorating a PVC ceiling that does not require the creation of an iron frame. In this case, the fastening of plastic blocks will go directly to the draft ceiling. The unequivocal advantage of this method is the preservation of the same height of the room.

Fastening plastic panels to the ceiling with "liquid nails"

But such work is possible only if the draft ceiling is in very good condition, if it is perfectly even, has no roughness and fungus damage. Here, fastening will be carried out using building glue for plastic or liquid nails.

Step 2 Next, preparatory activities are carried out. If lime is crumbling from the rough ceiling, then such areas must be removed. All loose wires must be wrapped in corrugated plastic pipes, leaving them free exit only in those places where they will go into lighting fixtures. The old ceiling is treated with an antifungal solution.

Step 3 Then a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of all walls. It will indicate the height of the panels. The line should be at a certain distance from the ceiling, which depends on the planned use of the resulting empty space. If nothing will be placed there, then a five-centimeter indent is enough. If it is planned to place ventilation or massive lighting fixtures, then the distance can increase to two to three tens of centimeters.

Step 4 The line is drawn with a level. If the bathroom is already tiled, then its extreme seams can be used as a ruler.

Frame installation

Step 1. Before starting work, the tile is closed with polyethylene or cardboard.

Step 2 The start profile, that is, the UD form, is installed first. You need to apply it to the wall so that the lower border coincides with the drawn lines. Cut into pieces the length of the entire wall.

When the profile is attached to the wall, holes are drilled in it every fifty centimeters to insert dowels there, the depth of the hole is equal to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10-20 mm. There are hammered dowels and screwed with a screwdriver, the first type is more convenient to use. Before drilling a wall, it must be checked for wiring using a detector device.

Step 3. Then the CD profile is laid out. It is inserted perpendicular to the UD into its slots. There are two ways to lay these elements: along a long wall or across it. They have different aesthetic effects: if the room seems more spacious when laid along, then when laid across it looks more compact. The longitudinal structure has one disadvantage: since the profile sags between two grooves at a sufficiently large distance, it requires additional fastening to the ceiling in the form of suspended structures.

Hangers are fixed before installation of CD forms. To correctly calculate their future location, make marks on them when installing the UD, which will help you determine both the location of the hangers and the place of the CD mount.

Step 4 If a chandelier will be used for lighting, then it is necessary to draw one rail across all the others in the place where it will hang.

Panel installation

A plinth is installed along the perimeter of the wall directly under the base profile, liquid nails or glue are used for fastening. The plinth is made of the same material as the panels themselves, differing from them only in their shape. Some types of skirting boards are fixed without the help of special tools, mechanically attached to the UD panel. This includes F-shaped skirting boards.

On a note! During the arrangement of the plastic ceiling, you will probably be puzzled by the problem of creating the right angles. For the wall panel, it is not necessary to make them, since this element is still not striking. But for skirting boards that are in plain sight and represent the edging of the ceiling, the design of the corners is necessary.

The most time-consuming way is to cut them out with a miter box from standard products. But the miter box is not always at hand, and not everyone knows how to work with it. In this case, you can purchase special corner nozzles that can easily be attached to the junction of two skirting boards.

The panels are cut according to the dimensions of the wall. For convenience, you can make them a little shorter than necessary, but with a difference of no more than 5 mm. A profile strip is taken, one end of it is threaded into the groove between the UD form and the plinth and fastened there. The other end of the strip is attached in the opposite groove; to be able to thread it there, you need to slightly bend the strip, but be careful, because at this point it is easy to break. Each strip has mounting locks. The first inserted panel is fixed to the plinth with a screw. Subsequent panels are connected to each other using press washers. The latter has a half width, for which a standard panel is sawn into two parts. This panel is attached to the groove of the profile and the plinth without the use of bolts and washers.

Please note that the laying of plastic panels occurs perpendicular to the direction of the CD molds. In other words, if the CDs were stacked along the long side of the room, then the plastic panel should run across it.

Reference! In addition to parallel and perpendicular, there is also a diagonal direction of frame fastening. It requires more precise calculations for its implementation, but a rough planning guideline is a parallel direction rather than a perpendicular one.

Lighting

A place is allocated in advance for the lamps. Check the functionality and safety of all wiring. When laying plastic blocks, do not forget to remove the ends of the wires from the filled areas so that they do not become "walled" between the ceilings. You should not spare the wires, even if they are carried out with a spare length, the risk of not reaching the wire to the planned place can jeopardize the entire arrangement plan.

In the desired panels, holes are drilled to form your lighting fixture. The easiest way is to make round holes, for which it is enough to put a special nozzle on the puncher. The luminaire is mounted after the panels have been installed.

On this, the process of arranging a plastic ceiling can be considered completed. And this is another advantage of this material - it does not need any additional lining. After the completion of the main work, such a ceiling is a full-fledged element of the home interior, and the bathroom with its help can change beyond recognition.

Video - Finishing the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic panels

The main advantages of new types of finishing materials are their affordable price, reliability and ease of use. These characteristics are fully consistent with the ceiling of the panels. Modern polyvinyl chloride panels are designed to perform cladding of any surfaces without complicated preliminary preparation and costly leveling. The main thing is to familiarize yourself in advance with the rule for selecting the most suitable material, installation technology and safety precautions.

Material calculation

Modern domestic and foreign manufacturers offer consumers a large selection of plastic panels for finishing ceilings. The assortment sells products with a reliable imitation of marble, rare woods, various colors and shades, with a matte and glossy surface. Facing strips have different widths and lengths, textured and textured surface. When choosing panels, you should pay attention only to the ceiling strips, since the material for wall cladding is heavier, more difficult to cut and fasten.

Note! The calculation of the amount of lining is carried out after preliminary measurements of the room, taking into account additional waste for cutting panels and possible marriage. As a rule, experts advise to purchase an additional 10% of the total volume of material for cutting.

Required Tools

In addition to the main strips and fasteners, the necessary tools should be prepared:

drill or screwdriver;
level, long ruler and tape measure;
hacksaw;
a hammer;
construction knife.

Of the hardware, be sure to prepare nails, screws and plastic dowels. The frame itself is assembled with screws. PVC panels are fixed with special clips or screws with a washer.

At the preparatory stage, the ceiling is cleaned of damage and delamination. It is advisable to prime the surface with a special deep penetrating composition and only after that proceed with marking, beating a single level around the perimeter of the room. Electrical wiring for lighting is carried out in advance, taking into account the type and location of the lamps used, and all necessary engineering communications are laid along the ceiling.

Selection and arrangement of the frame

By themselves, plastic ceiling panels are soft and brittle. Therefore, for their reliable fixation, it is necessary to equip a high-quality frame with an additional crate in advance. To do this, a U-shaped profile is fixed around the perimeter. The edge of the plastic elements will wind up in it. As a mounting base, you can use a ceiling plinth for panels, made immediately with a U-shaped groove. Some craftsmen use a wooden beam or a metal profile for plasterboard structures. However, it should be remembered that for rooms with high humidity, a frame made of wooden elements should not be equipped. In addition, when using a tree, it must be pre-treated with flame retardants and protective antiseptic impregnations.

Today, there is a special profile for fixing PVC panels on sale, which can be selected in the same color scheme as the base material. These profiles have a fixing groove for attaching fixing clips.

For docking in the frame of plastic profiles in the outer and inner corners, a hacksaw and a miter box are used. Only the use of these tools guarantees a minimum gap and a beautiful cut.

It is necessary to fasten the profile to increase the strength of the structure every 300 mm. The wooden frame is made using a beam 20x40 mm, which is fixed to the ceiling with impact screws and dowels in increments of 600 mm. If metal profiles for plasterboard structures are used to equip the frame, then U-shaped profiles are placed on the ceiling every 600 mm, fixing them to the surface with anchors.

Installation of PVC panels

The first bar, after trimming to the size of the room, is inserted into the groove of the U-shaped profile. Cut off the strips after preliminary measurements with a simple construction knife or a sharp hacksaw. It is important to bear in mind that when trimming the panels, they are slightly reduced from the calculated distance (approximately 4 mm) on each side. As soon as the panel is in place, it is fixed with clips or screws to the support profiles.

The next strip is started at a slight angle and along the entire length. In order to tightly connect the individual panels, use a piece of plastic panel or a wooden block. The main thing is not to bend the strips and not to apply too much effort to join the material. Any inaccurate pressure can leave a dent in the panel or damage it beyond repair.

Note! If installation work is carried out without a partner, then ordinary wooden supports with crossbars can be used as a safety element that does not allow excessive deflection of the material.

After all the plastic panels are installed, proceed to the finishing of the ceiling. If a U-shaped profile was used to equip the frame, then a decorative plinth is additionally installed around the perimeter of the room. It is better to fix it with liquid colorless nails, applying the composition to one side of the plinth, attaching it to the ceiling or wall. In some cases, consumers prefer to use a collapsible plinth, which is mounted using mounting latches. In the corners of the room, the decorative plinth is joined using a sealant that matches the color of the material as closely as possible, or using adapters.

Note! During the installation process in the panels, it is necessary to make technological holes in advance for the outputs of the lamps or docking with communications: heating pipes or water pipes.

If a few decades ago, ceiling decoration in most cases was limited to whitewashing or wallpapering, then today the base can be sheathed with rather unusual materials, such as plastic. How to install plastic panels on the ceiling, we will understand below.

Advantages and disadvantages of ceilings made of plastic panels

Finishing the surface of the ceiling with polyvinyl chloride has many advantages:

Irregularity masking. Installation does not require perfect alignment of the base coat. Panels will hide all defects.
Convenient installation of communications. Pipes, wires and ventilation ducts fit freely in the interceiling space.
Various lighting options. Do-it-yourself original lamps or lighting can be installed in the ceiling of plastic panels with your own hands.
Easy to install. It is much easier to equip a PVC structure than suspended or stretch ceilings.
light weight. The lightness of the material allows you to mount it on a longitudinal frame, which significantly reduces the cost of profiles.
Possibility of additional insulation. During the installation process, hydro-, noise- and heat-insulating material can be placed in the interceiling space.
Reuse. If necessary, the panels can be dismantled and reinstalled.
moisture resistance. The material is absolutely not afraid of water, and therefore it does not warp, does not become moldy, and does not deform when moisture enters. Because of this, it is he who is chosen for equipping the ceiling of plastic panels in the bathroom, kitchen, balcony and loggia.
Ease of maintenance. Plastic is resistant to most detergents without abrasives, so it can be easily cleaned of almost any contaminant.
Relative cheapness. PVC panels are relatively low cost and will cost significantly less than drywall or stretch counterparts.
Durability. With proper maintenance, plastic will last about 15 years.

As for the disadvantages of this method of finishing ceilings, here are:

simple view. The ceiling of plastic panels looks pretty budget.
Limited types of structures. Using PVC, you can only make a single-level design without bends.
Reducing the height of the room. A suspended ceiling made of plastic will make the room lower by at least the width of the profile.
Interpanel seams. Even with the correct installation of seamless plastic lining, the joints of the panels will still be visible.

After weighing the pros and cons of this method of finishing, you can make the final decision whether to install plastic ceilings in the room.

Varieties of plastic panels for the ceiling

Today, this material is so common in the construction industry that it is used for sheathing various surfaces.

According to the type of purpose, the panels are:

wall. They are thicker and heavier.
Ceiling. They differ in relatively low weight and lower strength characteristics.

By type of connection, the following varieties are distinguished:

Seamless. The joints of such panels are visible only at close range.
Embossed. The surface looks as if sheathed with clapboard.
With chamfer (rust). They look like seamless patterns, but they have a decorative hole at the ends.

Panels on the market are presented in three standard sizes:

Lining - 300*10/300*12.5 cm;
Seamless with a length of 260-300 cm and a width of 15-50 cm;
Squares (rectangles) - 30*30 - 100*100 cm;
Leafy with a width of 80-203 cm, a length of 150-405 cm.

According to the type of coating, PVC panels are divided into:

Glossy. Lacquering makes the surface mirror-like.
Matte. Without additional processing. A budget option.
colored. In cheaper models, the pattern is applied by transferring from thermal film, in expensive ones - by direct printing.

For mounting a ceiling made of plastic panels, ceiling, seamless, sheet models are most often used.

Among the variety of PVC panels provided on the market, it is very easy to get confused, so you need to know the rules for choosing high-quality material:

The panel must be geometrically correct, with a clearly marked pattern and a smooth surface.
No stiffeners should be visible from the outside. At the same time, keep in mind that the strength of the structure directly depends on their number.
When choosing panels, take two parts and dock them. High-quality products should fit snugly to each other, easily dock and not form gaps at the joints.
Try pressing or bending the material. Even though light and thin, ceiling panels should not be too fragile.
Smell the material. A quality product does not emit a strong odor.

You should not save on materials, because high-quality panels will last much longer and will fully pay for themselves over time. Be sure to check the certification of products and make purchases from reliable suppliers so as not to become the owner of a low-quality product.

To make the right choice among the widest range of textures and colors, consider the following nuances:

You can visually increase the height of the room by equipping a light ceiling. A dark coating, on the contrary, will reduce the height.
The glossy surface visually deepens the ceiling, making it more remote and the room voluminous.
Do not overload the interior with more than three colors in the decoration of the ceiling.
Imitation of wood or stone on plastic looks primitive (especially if seams are visible), so it is better to refuse texture patterns.

At the same stage, think about the type of fixtures used and how to mask the extreme ends of the panels.

Do-it-yourself ceiling installation from plastic panels

The design consists of a frame fixed on the base surface and sheathed with PVC. To do the work yourself, you need to prepare the ceiling, make markings, draw up a drawing, calculate the amount of material needed, build a frame and fix the panels on it. At each stage, many technological nuances should be taken into account, and it is important to approach each process responsibly in order to ultimately be satisfied with the work.

Preparatory work before installing the ceiling of plastic panels

Significant preparation or alignment of the base ceiling with such a finish is not required, but some work is still worth doing:

We free the room from large-sized furniture, remove curtains, cornices, paintings and a chandelier, insulating the ends of the wires.
We lay a plastic film on the floor and close the doorway with it.
We remove the ceiling trim and dismantle, if necessary, the old wiring.
We putty large cracks and holes.
Prime the surface with an antifungal compound.

If a suspended mounting method is planned (using metal hangers), then the preparation of the base surface can be considered complete. If it is supposed to be installed in a hemmed way (fixing the profiles directly to the ceiling), then it is additionally necessary to trim the surface with gypsum putty.

Calculation of material for the ceiling of plastic panels

In the course of work, we will need panels and components directly. Materials must be purchased with a margin so that in case of unforeseen circumstances the installation process is not delayed. To correctly determine the exact number of fasteners, components and panels, we first measure the length of all four walls. Note that opposite walls also need to be measured separately as they may not be level.

We carry out calculations taking into account the following rules:

We divide the ceiling area by the area of one panel, add 15-20% to the result obtained and round up. This figure will be an indicator of the required number of PVC panels.
When calculating the number of ceiling profiles and suspensions, keep in mind that it is mounted in increments of 0.5-0.6 meters.
The length of the desired starting profile is equal to the perimeter of the room plus 10 cm.
The number of dowels will be needed with the calculation of 1 pc / 0.5 meters of the profile, and self-tapping screws - 1 pc / 0.5 meters of the panel length.
To calculate the amount of plastic profile, divide the perimeter of the room by three (standard length of products) and round up.

In addition, you may need an H-profile to connect the ends of the panels, plastic corners for external and internal joining.

In residential premises, the crate can also be made from wood, but for mounting the ceiling of plastic panels in the kitchen, balcony or bathroom, it is better to use metal, galvanized ones.

Marking the ceiling before installing plastic panels

For the convenience of work, prepare in advance a tape measure, a paint cord and a hydraulic level.

We markup in the following order:

We measure the height of all corners and the center of the room.
In the lowest corner from the base ceiling, we measure the height of the interceiling space.
With the help of the level, we make marks in the same plane in all corners, we screw temporary self-tapping screws into them.
Between the two temporary fasteners we stretch the paint cord and beat off the line of the plastic coating. Repeat the procedure for all walls.
On opposite walls near the ceiling we make marks in increments of 0.5 meters.
We stretch the paint cord between the marked points and beat off the fastening lines of the supporting profiles.
We mark the places of attachment of suspensions.

If a hemming technique for fastening panels is assumed, then marking on the wall is not done, and the base ceiling is pre-aligned.

How to make a frame for the ceiling of plastic panels

When mounting the frame for suspended ceiling mounting, we use metal suspensions. Before starting work, you must make sure that there are no hidden wiring in the places where the holes are drilled. To do this, you need to invite an electrician or use special detectors. Failure to do so may damage the power supply and even cause injury.

We carry out the work according to the following instructions:

We attach a guide profile according to the marking level on the wall. It must be fixed on all walls, except for the one where the last part will be installed. This is necessary for ease of docking and fitting.
At the marked places, we attach suspensions to the dowels and bend their ends.
We insert the ceiling profile into the guide and fix it on the hangers with self-tapping screws.
We align each element along a stretched nylon thread.

The false ceiling frame is attached without hangers to the pre-levelled base surface as follows:

We attach the supporting profile along the marked lines on the ceiling. In the process, it is necessary to monitor the tightest fit of the parts to the wall. However, if the coating was previously leveled, then cracks should not form.
We attach the L-shaped profile to the walls along the perimeter of the room at the level of the ceiling profiles fixed on the ceiling.
We attach the corners at the joints.

At this stage, it is necessary to lay all communications and draw conclusions for fixtures. The wiring must be laid in a heat-resistant corrugated sleeve.

Please note that with hemming fastening, the interceiling space is not enough for mounting spotlights.

How to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels

Plastic panels must be fixed across the location of the profiles, the installation is performed as follows:

If necessary, cut off the part of the desired length by 0.5 cm less than the width of the room. To do this, you can use a jigsaw, a hacksaw with small teeth, a sharp knife.
We grind the edges with sandpaper and remove the film from the panel.
We insert one side into the starting profile, bend it slightly and insert the second edge.
We move the element close to the wall. As a result, the first panel will be fixed in three profiles.
We attach the remaining side with self-tapping screws with a wide hat to the crate in the groove.
We insert the second part in the same way into opposite guides and move it tightly to the previous panel.
We sheathe the entire ceiling using this technique. The edge element will need to be cut to the appropriate width before installation.
We install decorative plinths on the starting profile along the perimeter of the room. In the place where the last panel is attached, it can be glued on liquid nails.
We cut out holes for mounting lamps with a drill with a crown.

Such a ceiling finish can be done at any stage of the repair, both before and after finishing the walls and floor, since this work is not “dirty”.

In order for the design to turn out to be aesthetically attractive, strong and durable, we recommend that you take into account the following recommendations in the process:

Plastic panels are fixed on a longitudinal frame, but if you plan to hang a chandelier, then at the place of its installation you will need to reinforce the crate with jumpers and fix the anchor hook to the base ceiling in advance. Jumpers must be cut from the ceiling profile and attached with crab connectors.
For a beautiful joining of skirting boards at the corners, they must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. For convenience, you can use the miter box.
If small gaps remain after the installation of the last panel, they can be blown out with an acrylic-based sealant.
It is better to attach a foam skirting board to uneven walls, since plastic products will form gaps.
The highest quality PVC products are produced by Italian manufacturers. The warranty period for such panels has almost doubled, and the cost is 20-25% higher.
Plastic is not combustible, but under the influence of high temperatures (80-90 degrees) it can melt, therefore it is better not to install high-power lighting fixtures in these ceilings. The best option is LED lighting.
It is absolutely impossible to glue panels with liquid nails to the ceiling. Firstly, this is not a sufficiently reliable fixation, and secondly, there must be a ventilation gap between the base surface and the plastic coating.

These simple tips will help you avoid mistakes during installation. Read the instructions carefully and make a plan of action before starting work, so as not to forget anything.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels - look at the video:

Plastic ceilings are the best solution for bathrooms, kitchens and other rooms in which the practicality and functionality of decoration come first. Our recommendations will help you figure out how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. Following the instructions, you will do all the work yourself, from preparing the base surface to installing decorative skirting boards.

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