Frame garage - we build with our own hands. How to quickly build a garage from inexpensive materials with your own hands We build a d m garage step by step instructions

For the construction of this type of building, it is not at all necessary to use expensive building materials. When building a garage with your own hands, slag or foam blocks are most often used. In our article, we will describe the stages of planning the construction of a garage.

Depth and type of foundation

When choosing it, the weight of the structure and the type of soil must be taken into account. When erecting walls from cinder blocks, it is sufficient to equip a shallowly buried tape or columnar base. It can be poured from concrete or built from the same blocks.

But, if hollow structures are used to build walls, then for arranging the foundation you will need solid cinder blocks. The foundation of them is able to withstand a structure weighing up to 100 tons.

trench preparation

Marking the foundation for the garage

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the width and length of the structure. There are a lot of drawings and photos of a self-built garage on the net. For a passenger car of standard sizes, it will be enough to erect a building measuring 3x6 m. In width, it is necessary to leave a margin of 70 cm for ease of passage and arrangement of shelving. If it is planned to attach a workshop to the garage, then the length or width will increase accordingly. The acceptable height of such a structure is 2.3 m.

When choosing a place for a garage, be sure to check the communications plan so as not to damage the water and gas pipes. To mark the future trench, metal rods or strong wooden stakes with pointed ends are used. They are placed in the corners and sides of the future foundation every 1.5-2 m. A strong cord is pulled tightly between them. To get a perfect rectangle, it should also be stretched from the corners - the diagonals should turn out to be equal in size and have the same intersection angles.

The trench is dug by hand - when using the technique, the soil will crumble. After its excavation to a depth of 70-80 cm (on clay soils by 150 cm), the earth should be carefully compacted. For problem-free soils, this is not very necessary. On weak soils, this procedure is mandatory. With good compaction of sandy soil, sandy loam or loam, the drawdown can be up to 0.5 m.

If a viewing hole is provided in the garage, a foundation pit is first prepared for it. Such a pit is strengthened with temporary formwork, and only then they begin to prepare a trench for the foundation.

Laying blocks for the foundation

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Types of strip foundation

Laying is done in a checkerboard pattern so that each of the blocks of the next row falls on the seam of the row of the previous one. To obtain a reliable design, the verticality and horizontality of the rows are verified by the building level. The height of the foundation must be calculated so that it rises above the surface by 0.7 m.

The laid out base must be strengthened with a plaster mesh. It is attached to a cement mortar 2 cm thick. To protect the base from moisture, it is covered with liquid bitumen. A double layer of roofing material or other rolled waterproofing is attached on top of it. After the foundation is completely ready, the space between it and the ground is covered with earth and compacted tightly.

For heaving soils and with a close location of groundwater, the use of a block foundation is undesirable. After all, when the soil moves in a horizontal direction, the masonry, and the cinder blocks themselves, can collapse.

Gate installation

They are mounted before the construction of the building begins. For the manufacture of the frame of the gate, a metal corner is used. An I-beam is laid on top so that it goes into the walls by 20 cm.

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Ready-made swing, metal gates

For a strong fastening of the door frame, it is necessary to weld metal 12-mm rods 40 cm long to it, which will later be laid into the seams of the walls. To do this, you need to accurately calculate at what distance you need to attach the bars.

After leveling the structure and checking the horizontal and vertical position, it is embedded in cement and temporarily fixed with wooden braces. Before installing the gate, be sure to check if there are any obstacles to opening in the form of buildings or trees.

Calculation of the required number of blocks

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First you need to know the perimeter of the walls. We need to add the length and width of the building and multiply their sum by 2. For a garage of standard sizes 3x6 m, the perimeter will be (3 + 6) x 2 = 18 m.

Now you need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. Let's say their height is 2.3 m. We multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height of the building. The area will be equal to 18 x 2.3 \u003d 41.4 square meters. m.

The standard size of a cinder block is 0.19 x 0.39 m. We multiply these numbers. Its lateral area will be 0.0741 sq. m. Now it remains to find out the number of blocks required for laying the walls of a garage measuring 3x6 m. The perimeter is 41.4 square meters. m divided by the area of ​​one block of 0.0741 sq. m. We get 558.7 pieces. We round the number up to 559. It is necessary to take cinder blocks with a margin of 5-10% for cutting and marriage. We add 56 more blocks to the resulting number 559. We get 615 pieces. Please note that this calculation is carried out without taking into account solid blocks going to the construction of the foundation. For him, the calculation should be done separately.

You can also use online calculators to calculate the required number of cinder blocks. For example, this one:

When erecting walls in heated rooms, cinder blocks that can quickly absorb moisture require additional lining and insulation. Otherwise, in winter, the condensate formed at the junction of heat and cold, freezing, will quickly destroy the walls.

Walling

A building made of high-quality cinder blocks can last 50 years or more. You can lay out walls from them quite quickly. But, since such blocks are quite heavy, you will need an assistant in your work.

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Construction of the walls of the garage from cinder blocks

1. Before purchasing blocks, be sure to check their quality. To do this, install a pair of randomly selected products on top of each other. There shouldn't be a gap between them.
2. Products from fine-grained slag are more expensive, but they also last much longer. However, their thermal insulation properties will be lower
3. To fasten cinder blocks, it is better to take not a standard cement mortar, but a special adhesive mixture. The seams in this case will be thinner and stronger. When using a cement mortar, the proportions for mixing are standard: 3 to 1 (sand, cement). Frost resistance and strength of the solution can be enhanced by adding plasticizers to it.
4. When using cement mortar, the thickness of the joints is 1.5 cm. When laying on glue, this parameter must be specified in the instructions.
5. Dilute the solution gradually after all, after setting, it will no longer be possible to use it. It should be enough for 1-1.5 hours of work. Keep in mind that for 4 blocks it will take you about a bucket of mortar
6. For the walls of an unheated garage, half-stone masonry is enough when the blocks are laid along, and not across the wall
7. Block laying should begin from the corners with checking the verticality and horizontality of the rows with a building level. To do this, a string is stretched between the two extreme blocks, which will serve as a guide.
8. Hollow blocks have only holes down
9. To get a checkerboard laying, the next row starts with a half of the block. In this case, the next row will move, and the cinder blocks of the first row will close the seams of the blocks of the previous row. In order not to engage in cutting, you can purchase ready-made corner cinder blocks
10. To strengthen the structure, it is better to use reinforcement(metal mesh). It is laid in the seams between the rows. The first row is reinforced necessarily. Then the grid is laid in every 4th row. Window and door openings must also be reinforced. The grid is laid in the last 2 rows

If you want to change the colors of the joints, add carbon black to the solution to darken, lime to lighten or blue copper sulphate to obtain a blue tint. Or use special additives that you can buy at a hardware store.

garage floor

The cost of cinder blocks for building walls is only 1/3 of the cost. Material investments will also be needed for arranging the roof, foundation, gates, decoration, etc. But still, a block building will cost less than any other material.

To cover the roof, I-beams are used, which are laid across the building every 80 cm. Their length should be 25 cm more than the total width of the garage. In places where they rest on the walls, cinder blocks must be replaced with more durable ones. concrete blocks.

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Thick, durable boards are attached to the bottom of the beams. Their thickness should be 4-5 cm. They are waterproofed with roofing felt with a small 10-centimeter run on the walls.

To protect the foundation from rain and melting snow, 4 cm long visors should be attached to the edges of the roof. You can insulate the roof with slag, which is poured on top of the roofing material, foam plastic or mineral wool. They are protected from moisture with a layer of 30 mm cement screed. In the future, it is treated with bitumen, and then covered with roofing material with an overlap of sheets of 10-15 cm. They also need to close the visors.

For the roof of the garage, you can use any material: from slate, metal profiles to tiles. It is necessary that it protrudes 20 cm beyond the walls. Then, during rain or snowmelt, moisture will not flow down the walls.

When constructing a shed roof, the walls must have a slope - for each meter of length, it should be about 50 mm.

viewing hole

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viewing hole

Its arrangement is possible only when the groundwater rises below the level of 2.5 m. If they rise a little higher, drainage can be arranged in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pit. However, this will require additional labor and capital investments. With a high groundwater approach to the surface level, it is better to refuse to build a viewing hole - it will simply be flooded.

Standard sizes

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For a comfortable inspection and repair of a passenger car, the dimensions of the pit should be as follows:

• length: to determine this parameter, 1 m¸ is added to the length of the vehicle, for example, (4.5 + 1) = 5.5 m
• width, 200 mm less than the standard gauge of the car (the distance between the wheels), in this case the car can easily drive into the pit without the risk of falling down; You can check this information in the technical documentation.
• depth: so that an adult can stand in it, straightening up, this parameter should be 1.85-2.0 m

The pit for the viewing hole needs to be done a little more so that there is room for concreting or laying brick walls. It is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the hydro- and heat-insulating layers. If necessary, niches for placing tools can be provided in the walls of the pit.

Finishing the walls of the pit with concrete

To protect against moisture, crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the prepared pit, and then sand. From above, such a pillow is covered with a layer of wet clay and compacted. Further, reinforcement is laid on the bottom, and it is concreted or laid out with bricks. In order for the concrete to set well, the pit must be left for a week to dry.

After the specified time has elapsed, waterproofing is laid on the bottom, then a layer of foam (heat insulator), and it is again filled with a layer of concrete mortar of small thickness. Enough 15-20 mm.

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It is also desirable to pre-coat the walls with clay, which is a natural waterproofing agent. A thick film or roofing material is attached on top. You can replace it with bitumen, liquid rubber or plastic plates. Next, a heat insulator is attached.

The thickness of the walls when pouring concrete is 15 cm. When installing the formwork, reinforcement in the form of a metal mesh or bars is placed in it.

The concrete solution is poured in stages of 0.3-0.4 m, followed by drying for several hours. At each stage of pouring, it is well bayoneted to remove voids.

When laying lighting, the wires should be hidden in the corrugation. It is attached to the reinforcing mesh using plastic ties before pouring concrete. It is necessary to provide for natural or forced ventilation of the inspection pit.

You can protect the walls from shedding with the help of a metal corner, laid around the perimeter at the top. It is advisable to make a durable metal or wooden cover to eliminate the possibility of falling.

Finished base of the garage with a viewing hole

To make the floors even, when arranging a garage with your own hands, you first need to prepare beacons - metal or wooden slats installed on thick mortar slaps. The distance between the slats should be slightly more than the length of the rule - a tool in the form of a long ruler used to level the mortar.

The horizontal alignment of the beacons is done using the building level. If necessary, a solution is reported under them or, on the contrary, it is pressed into the surface more strongly. After leveling the concrete, it must be covered with a film and left to dry for a week.

wall decoration

Porous cinder blocks are able to reliably retain heat in the building. But at the same time it is also a disadvantage. Since porous cinder blocks quickly absorb water, the walls of it require additional finishing. They can be plastered or protected with a ventilated façade. Otherwise, when freezing wet walls, the material will begin to collapse.

Wall decoration must be done immediately after construction is completed. The best time for this is summer.

In the modern world, every family has its own vehicle, some families can even afford to have several of them. The most common is the car. He becomes a real member of the family, they take care of him, look after him and try to keep him in good conditions. Therefore, many car enthusiasts prefer their own garage to street parking, which serves not only as a home for the car, but also as a place to store the necessary tools and an iron horse repair station.

Important Features

Having their own private house or cottage, many owners prefer to have a garage nearby for a car. Moreover, it can be built with your own hands, even without a construction or architectural education.

You just need to study well the materials for creating this simple design, correctly execute the plan and all preliminary calculations.

First of all, you need to decide what kind of building you need to build. The garage can be small, standard sizes for one car, have a flat pitched roof. It can also be turned from a parking space into a whole complex of useful premises on a personal plot.

So, it can be two-story or with a gable roof, and under it there can be a small cozy attic, which will serve, for example, as a lounge or guest room.

It is also possible to equip not just a viewing hole, but a real cellar for storing blanks for the winter, extra things. In such a garage, you can organize a small hozblok by installing racks, shelves, a desktop and even a sink.

For owners of two cars or a truck, you just need to increase the building parameters. You can even make separate blocks by building an additional partition. There are many options for building a garage. You just need to decide on the individual needs, desires and material capabilities of the owner.

Choice of material and design

This issue must be approached with all responsibility. Based on how much money will be allocated for construction, whether it will be an economy option or a luxurious room, you can proceed to the choice of the design itself and materials.

In the modern construction market there is a huge variety of materials, both cheap and expensive. Among them are:

• brick;
• sandwich panels;
• cinder blocks;
• gas silicate blocks;
• reinforced concrete slabs;
• polycarbonate;
• shield material.

In the role of auxiliary materials can be used:

• sleepers;
• bars;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• cement.

Currently, the design of garages can be completely different. The most popular and simple can be called the usual rectangular structure. Today, the garages of the “pencil case” or “shell” type, popular in Soviet times, are practically a thing of the past. They could be installed anywhere, as they were more like tents for cars.

Such "pencil cases" garages quickly became popular. They had a number of advantages:

• low price and ease of installation;
• protection of the car from bad weather and theft;
• the ability to place near the house;
• additional storage space.

Today we can distinguish the following types of garages:

1. From brick. This is a solid building that will last for many years. But at the same time, it is the most complex and expensive.
2. From various blocks. It is warm, has less weight than brick, and the material for construction is cheaper.
3. From metal. For its manufacture, professional welding is required. This is a lightweight construction, but such a garage is very cold and requires insulation.
4. frame garage. It is easy to build. Any available materials may be used.

There are even such motorists who build an underground garage. It is not visible to others and saves space on the site. It is easy to bring all communications to it directly from the house: electricity, heating, plumbing, and even sewerage. In addition, it can be accessed directly from the house.

Project

The first and very important stage of construction is the development of the project. Prior to its approval, it is necessary to determine the place of construction. The garage can be either freestanding or attached to any building on the site. The main thing is that it is comfortable to use and it fits into the overall design of the yard.

A detached garage is chosen if, with such an arrangement, it will be more convenient to drive up to it. You can even build it in such a place that the gate will immediately open onto the road.

An attached garage is useful if the main building is close to the outside of the property. With this arrangement, it even becomes possible to combine communications with the house.

As for the construction costs depending on the choice of location, it should be noted that a separate garage will cost less, since in the case of an extension, it will be necessary to strengthen the foundation of an existing building, which will inevitably incur additional costs.

When creating a project, it is not necessary to resort to the help of professionals. It is necessary to make at least the simplest drawing indicating all the dimensions of the planned building. The main thing is that the drawing contains information about:

• Purpose of construction. If the garage is designed only for storing a car, its area will be smaller than if it is planned to equip additional places for storing equipment, repairing a car or relaxing there.
• The size of the building. They depend primarily on the size and number of cars.

Having decided on the location, drawing a project of a capital structure with planned dimensions, you can begin the calculation of materials and, accordingly, the cost of them.

This stage must be taken extremely responsibly, because errors in the calculations can lead to a shortage of materials or, conversely, to unnecessary spending.

Marking and earthworks

In order to transfer the finished project to the terrain, the following tools will be needed:

• strong kapron thread;
• roulette;
• stakes or parts of reinforcement;
• big hammer.

With the help of them, you will need to make the same drawing, only already on the ground and in full size.

After that, you can proceed to earthworks. You can dig trenches either manually or with a mini excavator, if available. Immediately it is necessary to prepare a place for a viewing hole, if necessary. Its depth should be about two meters, although this figure may vary.

The main thing to consider is that the depth is considered optimal, 15-20 cm more than a person’s height. The width will be enough up to 1 meter. The length of the pit, about two meters, is sufficient to repair any car.

For the foundation of the future foundation, the optimal depth of the trench will be from 60 to 100 cm. Although it is worth considering the type of soil and climatic conditions. If necessary, it can be increased.

Foundation: options

Today there is a wide variety of foundations. But the most common can be called a monolithic foundation. You can build it in two ways:

• small stones are laid in a trench, then poured with concrete mortar;
• reinforcement is installed in the trench and filled with mortar.

It must be taken into account that the foundation must be above ground level. Therefore, formwork is additionally manufactured and installed. Its height will indicate the level of the foundation. Thus, the construction of the garage foundation has the following steps:

1. Stone is laid in the trench in layers, each is poured with concrete.
2. Formwork is installed around the perimeter. It is made of boards about 10 cm wide strictly according to the level.
3. The material for moisture insulation is laid on top. Roofing material is good for this purpose.
4. Concrete mortar is poured at the level of the formwork and leveled.

It is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the structure. This will take about three weeks. Otherwise, the foundation will be short-lived.

erection

Quickly, efficiently and for a long time, you can build a garage on your site from brick or expanded clay concrete slabs. The principle of their laying is the same. They differ only in size.

Walls

After the foundation has dried, you can proceed to laying the walls. Be sure to lay waterproofing a little wider than the wall.

The laying of bricks or blocks should take place according to a scheme in which the elements of the upper row overlap the seams of the lower one. Construction is better to start from the corners. The evenness of the walls is controlled by a level and a plumb line.

You need to take care of the mortar for masonry walls. It must be kneaded at the rate of one bucket of cement per 4.5 buckets of sand. It shouldn't be too liquid. To achieve the plasticity of the solution, you can extract half a bucket of clay. In the future, this will prevent delamination.

If the project had windows and doors, then under them, respectively, an empty space is left according to the desired dimensions of these structures.

Roof

There are 2 main types of roofs:

• lean-to;
• gable.

Shed roof has a simpler design, it is less expensive. But during its construction, you need to remember that you need to make a slope. Its optimal value is 10-12 degrees. With this value, precipitation does not accumulate and completely leaves the roof. Probably the only disadvantage of such a structure is the lack of an attic.

As for the gable roof, it is more difficult to equip, more expensive due to the need to purchase additional material. On the other hand, under it you can build an attic or attic.

If you still build a shed roof, then you should start from its base. Wooden beams are taken and laid across the building with an approximate step of one meter. Then they must be sewn up with a wooden beam at least 4 cm thick as tightly as possible.

The next layer is roofing material and insulation. Next, you need to equip and pour a cement screed. As a final topcoat, for example, aquiazole or rubemax can be used. It is better to build visors on the front and end sides of the roof.

Gates, windows, doors

In the left openings, it is necessary to install metal-plastic or wooden windows and metal doors.

Windows can be made sash (hinged), lifting or deaf at will. Although the latter option is not recommended, as it will not be possible to ventilate the room, and harmful chemicals can accumulate in it. Besides at modern windows it is possible to choose type of glasses. They may be:

• patterned;
• sun protection;
• anti-glare;
• unbreakable;
• fire fighting;
• multilayer.

Each type has its own properties, and depending on the needs of the owner, you can choose either the original appearance, or ease of use, or safety. Naturally, the price of such windows will be much higher.

As for the gate, there are also several options. You can install ordinary double-leaf metal gates, or you can choose a more expensive option and install roller shutters, which can be manual or electric. The latter option, of course, is the most expensive, and it is better to entrust the installation and configuration of the remote control to professionals. On the other hand, this option is the most prestigious, easy and convenient to use.

There are several types of garage doors depending on their design:

• Swing. They are inexpensive and consist of two leaves of the canvas, they are easy to make with your own hands.
• Sectional. They are a sectional canvas, which, when opened, rises to the ceiling with the help of a lifting mechanism.
• Rollback. Open by sliding to the side.
• Roller shutters. They consist of plates, which, when opened, are folded into a specially made box.

Also, the gate must meet the following requirements:

1. ensure unhindered and comfortable check-in and check-out of the car, fully comply with its dimensions;
2. be durable and burglar-resistant;
3. provide protection from environmental influences.

Closing openings

Openings and cracks must be filled. This is best done on 2/3 of the gap. Once the foam dries, the excess can be trimmed to give an aesthetic appearance to the structure. After that, they can be trimmed with corners made of plastic, metal or wood.

Parapet

On the roof along the front and side parts, it is recommended to equip a parapet of about 20-30 cm in height. It can be made of brick or foam concrete.

Floor and wall insulation

The floor in the garage must be arranged flush with or slightly above the basement. The design must be strong and durable.

First of all, you need to level the base well. Lay a layer of crushed stone about 5 cm on it. Then it is necessary to fill the floor with concrete mortar and level it well. The concrete layer will turn out to be impressive, it needs to be allowed to dry well.

The floor in the garage can also be made of concrete slabs, and the space between them should be laid with small stones and cemented.

Since the garage is used all year round, it is better to immediately insulate its walls. To do this, you can use mineral wool or foam. The insulation scheme is simple: a crate is attached to the walls, it is better to apply waterproofing to it. Then the insulation blocks are laid. At the end, sheathing is performed, for example, from drywall, siding or lining.

With this wall decoration, the garage will turn out to be warm, it will not freeze in the winter. And the car will be in comfortable conditions.

Roof waterproofing

Garage roof waterproofing is an important stage of construction. How dry the room will turn out will depend on its correct implementation, because the roof will not let moisture through in bad weather or in winter. In the process of roof waterproofing, every stage is important - from the choice of materials to competent and professional installation.

For its correct implementation, it is necessary to correctly select materials. They should be:

• durable - the material must be resistant to loads and environmental influences;
• elastic - this property should save the waterproofing layer from destruction in case of any deformations;
• have good water-repellent characteristics - the material must not let through not only the water itself, but also its vapors;
• heat-resistant - this is important for maintaining and maintaining heat in the room.

There are several types of waterproofing materials on the building materials market:

1. Membrane systems. The membrane has good properties and can be used even with strong temperature fluctuations. This is a very durable material. It can last up to 50 years. It can be installed in all weather conditions.
2. polymer mastics. They have high strength, reliability and durability. They do not need repair for several decades. Such a coating retains its performance properties even in harsh climates, it is not afraid of either frost or sun, it does not melt or crack. When applying the mastic, there are no seams, which is an additional protection against external factors.
3. Film coatings. The special roofing film has microperforation. Thanks to micropores, air is ventilated. Roofing anti-condensation film is made of viscose, which allows it to absorb moisture well. This type of waterproofing is best used when constructing roofs from metal tiles or corrugated board.

Liquid rubber, mastic is well suited for waterproofing a pitched roof. It should be noted that waterproofing works are best done in warm sunny weather.

Finishing work inside and outside

The choice of interior and exterior finishing works is limited only by imagination and finances. Finishing can be as minimal as possible, using simple and cheap materials such as cement mix, whitewash or plaster, or it can be spent on it and give the garage a presentable look both outside and inside. Brick walls can be finished with clapboard or siding.

In two-story garages, much attention can be paid to finishing the second floor or attic. From it you can get a full-fledged room, if you dream up and give it an original design.

Finishing the outer surface of the garage can be done in various ways:

• plaster;
• stitching;
• finishing with natural stone;
• facing with sheet materials.

Exterior wall plastering can be produced in different colors. There are various decorative plasters, such as terrasite, stone or lime-sand. Stone ones are the most durable, but when finishing them, you need to invest a lot of effort and money in the work. They are applied in two to four layers with a total thickness of about 10 cm.

Lime-sand plasters are applied with the addition of a small amount of cement. Mica can be added to terrasite plaster to give walls an attractive sheen. After the layer of such plaster has dried, it must be wiped off. With the help of seams, you can give them a different shape and color.

Layers of stone chips can be applied to the outer walls of the garage. It must be moistened with water and applied directly to a fresh primer coat.

Finishing the garage can also be done by painting it. Before this, the walls must be sanded. After painting with oil paints, varnish can be applied to the walls to give them shine. The varnish is applied to a dry, clean surface, preferably in two layers.

You can also use nitro paints. They are usually produced ready-made, and applied using spray guns. They dry very quickly.

Interior decoration is also an important element. It not only protects the garage from harmful environmental factors, but also makes it look attractive. It must meet the following requirements:

• Be nonflammable. Even with a small ignition, the fire can go to it, this should not be allowed.
• Be resistant to contact with chemicals.
• Be carefree.
• Resistant to dirt and damage.

Plastering the interior walls of the garage today is an economical and simple way to finish. It is non-flammable, easy to repair and great for almost any garage structure.

Interior decoration can be done using ceramic tiles. It is fireproof, protects against moisture, mechanical damage, chemical influences, and is easy to clean. With this finish, the garage becomes cozy and presentable. By the way, this type of finish is best done on brick or concrete walls that are thick enough.

Another way to finish is to cover with plastic sheets. It is easy to perform and economical. PVC panels are fire resistant and waterproof. They are easy to install and give the garage a well-groomed look.

The ceiling of the garage can also be plastered or covered with plastic panels. The material of its lining may depend on the desires and preferences of the owner.

Since there is often not enough light in the garage, you often have to use power tools or electric heaters, then at the finishing stage it is also necessary to supply electricity to the garage in any convenient way. The garage is usually connected to the power supply through a common house machine.

The wiring diagram must necessarily include separate lines for 220 and 380 V. In order to properly equip the building with electricity, it is necessary to draw up a power supply circuit. It takes into account all electrical appliances that will take place in the garage, and their location. These are sockets, and lighting fixtures, and heaters.

It is desirable that each line be connected separately, for this it is necessary to use circuit breakers.

After connecting the power supply, sockets and switches can be installed. Decorative lamps are installed on the walls and ceiling of the garage. If there is a viewing hole, you must not forget about its lighting.

Installation of electricity can be done independently, only if you have special knowledge and skills for this, because this is a very difficult and even dangerous task.

It will be easier and safer to entrust this work to qualified specialists. Of course, their work will cost quite a lot, but you won’t have to worry about the result. Experienced electricians will definitely check the quality of all connections after completion of work and give a guarantee for their work.

Heating selection

But even when the garage is insulated, it is better to additionally equip the heating system in it, especially if it will be used to repair the car. Heating can be of two types - constant and intermittent.

Permanent heating is a reduced copy of the heating system at home. It's expensive and troublesome. With this type of heating, it will be necessary to install radiators in the garage and connect them with an additional pipe to the heating system of the house. You can also use gas heating if there is a gas pipe next to the garage.

Periodic heating is not difficult to organize. But at the same time it is not particularly comfortable and convenient. With this type of heating system, garages are equipped with stoves, always with chimneys. You can heat them with any combustible material. But often it is not possible to achieve uniform heating of the room with their help. Such heaters must be placed as far as possible from combustible objects in order to avoid a fire.

Therefore, often in garages they use the simplest methods of heating - heat guns. They are mobile, do not cause unnecessary trouble and warm the room well. The heat gun is powered by electricity. They can be placed in several different places if the garage area is impressive.

You can also use the air heating option. It is necessary to build a ventilation duct, select a heat exchanger and a fan. The most effective is the direction of hot air from the bottom up.

You can also heat the garage using infrared radiation. To do this, a heater is bought and connected to the mains. With this method, the heating of the room is achieved in a few minutes. This heating system works even when the garage door is open.

When choosing heating in the garage, they are most often guided by the following important criteria:

• ease of maintenance;
• availability;
• ease of operation;
• reliability and efficiency.

Summing up, it should be noted that the construction of a garage is not too difficult, but a very responsible task. Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the location of the building, because it must be both convenient and safe.

So, for example, it is not recommended to build a garage in the back of the yard, as this can complicate an unhindered access to it. In addition, it is better to erect it on a flat surface or elevation, but in no case in a lowland. Groundwater and precipitation can accumulate there, which will lead to a reduction in its service life.

It is better to place the building away from trees in order to avoid their sudden destruction and the germination of roots under the foundation.

You need to think in advance what the design of the garage will be. The choice of building materials, insulation, waterproofing and even finishing, internal and external, will depend on it. It is immediately better to take into account the features of the building, whether it is the presence of a viewing hole or even a cellar, the type of roof.

On the shed roof, you can build a terrace for relaxation. When choosing a gable, it would be nice to build an attic, an attic, or even a full-fledged second floor. So you can immediately "kill two birds with one stone": get a reliable home for a personal car and additional living space, for example, to accommodate guests.

It is necessary to correctly draw up a construction project and correctly calculate the required amount of building materials in order to avoid unnecessary expenses.

When building a garage, you must strictly follow the sequence, norms and rules of construction. Do not neglect constant measurements, control of the level and quality of the materials used.

Depending on the cost of construction, you can choose either a more economical version of the roof, gates and finishes, or, if possible, use innovative technologies when choosing gates, thermal and waterproofing, heating and building cladding.

It is also possible to partially or completely resort to the help of professionals who can correctly mount various elements of the building.

Particular attention should be paid to the interior and exterior of the garage. They can combine an attractive appearance, and protection from harmful environmental factors, and ease of installation and even safety in operation.

Be sure to take into account the presence of communications in the room - electricity, plumbing and heating. They can be both combined with common houses and made autonomous.

Thus, the construction of a garage is a slow process, quite laborious and requiring great care and responsibility. But if you follow all the standards, rules and regulations, take into account all kinds of factors, then the end result will be of high quality, durable and convenient. Such a garage will not only be a cozy home for a car, comfortable for repair work and storing all kinds of tools, but will also become a reason for pride and decoration of a personal plot.

The construction of the garage can be ordered by third-party specialists. You can also study the available instructions and build a great garage with your own hands. In this case, you do not have to spend money on anything other than building and finishing materials. You will personally control each stage of work and be sure of the quality and reliability of the finished structure.

Choose the right material for building a garage. The design can be made of "stone" building materials and metal. Brick, foam blocks, cinder blocks, etc. are usually used as stone materials.

The stone structure is characterized by higher reliability when compared with metal structures. The metal garage wins in terms of complexity and speed of construction. Otherwise, you will have to decide on a suitable building material yourself.

First, the procedure for building a garage from stone materials will be considered, and at the end you will receive recommendations for the construction of a metal garage.

Project preparation

A good project is the key to success. Project documentation can be the most modest. The main thing is that the following information should be reflected in the project:

• tasks assigned to the future structure. A garage designed solely for storing a car will be different from a building in which it is planned to carry out any other repairs. Be sure to consider this point and reflect your wishes in the project;
• construction dimensions. They depend on the requirements for the future garage and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe available construction site. To store a passenger car, a room of 3x6 m is enough. For the rest, be guided by your needs and capabilities.

Consider the above points and draw a sketch of the future garage on paper or in a computer program.

Marking and earthworks

Transfer the finished sketch to the real area. A number of reinforcing pegs will help you with this. Usually bars with a diameter of 12 mm are used. You will mark the corners and sides of the garage with pegs driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

After marking is completed, proceed to the main earthworks. The earth can be dug with the help of special equipment or manually. If you are planning to equip a viewing hole in the garage or even a full-fledged cellar, it is recommended to use the help of companies specializing in earthworks. Digging such a large hole by hand is very difficult.

In the process of digging, consider the features of the future foundation. For a strip base, a trench with a depth of 60-100 cm is sufficient. The specific depth depends on the climatic conditions and the type of soil at the construction site. A meter depth is sufficient in most cases.

Level the bottom and sides of the pit. An ordinary shovel will help you with this.

Foundation device

Today, there are many types of foundations. Private garages are usually built on rubble concrete foundations. This is a relatively budgetary and extremely easy-to-arrange system that you can do yourself.

First step. Lay rubble stone in the trench. This stone should be placed in layers, spilling each layer with a concrete solution. Prepare the solution on the basis of cement M400 and above. Lay the stone up to the top of the hole.

Second step. Install a wooden formwork for the base around the entire perimeter of the pit. Assemble the formwork structure from boards. Boards with a width of about 10 cm are suitable. In general, the design is set strictly according to the level.

Third step. Lay moisture barrier material over the plinth. Two layers of roofing material will be more than enough. The material is laid dry.

Fourth step. Fill the basement of the future garage with concrete mortar to the level set by the formwork.

Installing gates, arranging walls and erecting a roof

First step. Install the gate. This element is installed strictly before the construction of the walls. Weld reinforcement bars with a diameter of about 12 mm to the gate frame. Thanks to the bars, a stronger connection between the garage door and its walls will be provided. During the construction of the walls, the reinforcement will be embedded in the seams. Install the gate strictly vertically. After leveling the gate, fix it with wooden braces.

Second step. Start laying out the walls from the selected material. The next row of masonry, regardless of the material used, must overlap the seams of the laid row. Directly masonry should start from the corners. Be sure to check the verticality of the walls, the correctness of the angles and the horizontality of the rows of masonry at each stage.

Third step. Mount the roof of the garage at a slope necessary for the removal of atmospheric water. To obtain a slope, make end walls of different heights. Traditionally, a slope of 5 cm per 1 m2 is performed. For example, if the garage has a length of about 6 m, the total height difference will be about 30 cm.

The overlap of a private garage will look like metal beams with additional filing of wooden boards. Prepare the I-beams. Their height should be about 12 cm. Use the beams so that their length is approximately 250 mm longer than the width of the future garage. Insert these beams into the structure by at least 100 mm. At the support points of the beams, cinder block, brick or other building material used should be replaced with monolithic concrete blocks.

Lay the beams across the building at a distance of about 800 mm from each other. Beams are laid with embedding in a long wall of the building and the same slope as that of this wall.

Step four. Fasten wooden boards 4-5 cm thick along the bottom of the beams. Lay the boards as close to each other as possible. Cover the boards with roofing material. The edges of this waterproofing material should extend approximately 100 mm onto the wall.

Fill the roofing material with slag or cover the waterproofing with another insulation, for example, mineral wool insulation boards. On the rear and front edges of the roof, you need to install visors protruding by about 40 mm. Use boards to make canopies. Pour a cement screed about 3-3.5 cm thick over the insulation. Try to level the screed as carefully as possible. Be sure to treat the frozen screed with a bituminous primer.

Step five. Finally, the roof must be waterproofed. To protect against moisture, you can use roofing material already familiar to you. This waterproofing material is laid using the fusing method. Also, roofing material can be fixed using bituminous mastic. Lay sheets of roofing material with an overlap of about 100-150 mm. At the edges of the roof, overlap the visor.

Flooring and paving guide

Make the floor at the level of the upper border of the base or slightly higher. The floor structure must be strong enough to support the weight of the vehicle and other loads. For pouring, use concrete prepared on the basis of cement grade 500. Or buy ready-made concrete grade M200. The thickness of the fill layer should be about 10 cm.

First step. Carefully level the base for pouring the floor.

Second step. Set the beacons to the required level and pull the cord between them. Lighthouses can be made, for example, from a profile pipe or other suitable material.

Third step. Lay a crushed stone pillow about 5 cm thick on the base.

Fourth step. Pour concrete in strips between the beacons. After all concrete has been laid, the surface must be carefully leveled.

Fifth step. While the floor is gaining strength, take care of outdoor work, in particular, a blind area device. In the case of a garage, a blind area 50-60 cm wide is sufficient.

The blind area is created in the same order as the floor, i.e. first you install the beacons, then prepare the gravel base and pour the concrete solution. Only first you need to install boards that will mark the boundaries of the blind area, i.e. make formwork. The blind area itself is recommended to be done with some slope from the walls of the garage. The recommended thickness of the structure is 40-60 mm.

As a rule, they do not pay special attention to finishing the garage. In most cases, the owners simply rub the walls with a cement mortar and cover them with a layer of plaster.

A more significant point is the thermal insulation of the structure. Mineral wool and polystyrene slabs are suitable for insulation.

The ceiling, walls and garage doors are insulated in a similar manner. A crate is attached to the surface to be trimmed with a step equal to the width of the insulation plate, then a plastic film is laid on the crate, a heater is laid over the waterproofing, the laid plates are covered with moisture insulation and at the end the finishing sheathing is performed, for example, clapboard, siding or other material of your choice.

The procedure for the construction of a metal garage

The arrangement of a metal garage requires less money and time.

First step. Make a foundation. Prepare a trench with a depth of about 400 mm along the perimeter of the future metal structure. Fix the formwork boards along the outer boundaries of the pit. Make the formwork of such a height that after pouring the solution layer protrudes at least 10 cm above the ground. Pour the solution immediately over the entire area.

Second step. Make a frame from a profile pipe. You will need a welding machine. Attach the frame elements to the dried concrete base. For fixing, use an anchor with a length of about 20 cm and a diameter of about 14 mm. Anchors can be made from rebar. For greater convenience, pre-prepare holes in the concrete with a diameter equal to the diameter of the anchors.

Third step. Weld the lower belt of the garage frame to the hammered rods. For reliable fixation of a 4x6 m structure, 15 anchors will be enough. Continue to weld the transverse chords of the structure until you get the frame of the required height.

Fourth step. Sheathe the frame with sheet metal. Sheets with a thickness of 3-4 mm will suffice.

Fifth step. Insulate the walls of the garage from the inside. To do this, first attach a frame of wooden blocks to the walls. Place the bars in increments equal to the width of the insulation plate. For thermal insulation, it is most convenient to use mineral wool or foam. Previously, the wooden frame should be covered with plastic wrap, and already a heater should be laid on it. Lay a vapor barrier film over the thermal insulation. At the end, sheathe the walls with clapboard, OSB, siding, chipboard or some other material of your choice.

Thus, if you need a simple and inexpensive garage, give your choice in favor of a metal structure. If properly erected and carefully handled, a metal garage will last a very long time.

If you want to have a capital and most durable structure, make a garage out of concrete blocks, bricks and other similar materials. Both tasks are solved without any problems on their own, you just need to carefully follow the instructions and unconditionally follow the main recommendations.

Successful work!

Video - Building a garage with your own hands

When starting to build a garage, most people ask themselves: how to do it with minimal cost and time? If you are also interested in this question, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the presented article, in which we will consider in detail the process of building an inexpensive garage in a short time.

How to reduce the cost of a building - frame technology or lightweight concrete

A garage made of traditional materials, for example, made of brick, will be expensive, and the process of its construction is not fast. Therefore, in order to solve the problem, one should resort to modern technologies and cheap building materials. As for budget technologies, the undisputed leader is frame construction. Its principle is based on the construction of a frame from a bar, which is sheathed with sheet material.

You can build such a garage very quickly, while it will turn out to be strong enough and able to reliably protect the car from various negative environmental influences. And if you insulate it and provide heating, then in such a garage you can comfortably service a car even in winter. The only negative is that its base is wooden, so the durability of the structure is somewhat limited, especially if it is not looked after.

If you do not want to build a frame garage, you can go the second way - use cheap wall materials, such as:

• blocks of lightweight concrete (aerated concrete, foam concrete or polystyrene concrete);
• cinder blocks;
• expanded clay concrete blocks, etc.

The construction technology of these blocks is almost the same as the construction of bricks. But due to the fact that one block is equal in size to several bricks, the laying speed increases several times. Such blocks are inexpensive in comparison with the same brick, since they are hollow, moreover, they are made of cheap materials.

Please note that a porous concrete block garage requires an exterior finish, as this material absorbs moisture well. If the walls are not finished, the life of the building will be greatly reduced.

As an example, consider how cheap it is to build a frame garage, since its technology is fundamentally different from the construction of a brick or block structure.

We create a project - all the nuances should be on paper

Before we start building a garage with our own hands, we will prepare a project. First of all, we need to decide on the size of the future structure. Since our task is to build a budget garage, the optimal dimensions are 4x6 m. They will be quite enough for almost any car. Of course, if necessary, you can adjust the dimensions "for yourself."

Then we draw up a frame drawing. Its basis is the racks, which we will install in the corners, as well as along the walls with a step of 60 cm. We will tie the bottom and top of the rack with a strapping. To give the structure rigidity, we will strengthen the rack with struts and jumpers. To reduce the cost of construction, we will make the roof single-pitched. To do this, one wall must be higher than the opposite. It is best to make a high wall on the entry side so that the water from the roof flows down behind the garage. You can even draw a frame by hand, the main thing - do not forget to indicate the dimensions of all parts in millimeters.

Another point that we need to decide on at the design stage is the foundation. If the soil is unstable, for example, swampy, we make the foundation slab. In almost all other cases, the optimal solution is a strip shallow foundation, which is associated with the minimum weight of the structure.

Foundation preparation - making the garage stable

Regardless of what the foundation will be, first we prepare the site: we apply markings and remove the top vegetation layer of the soil. If the foundation is tape, we dig trenches around the perimeter with a depth of about half a meter. If the foundation is slab, we deepen the entire site by about 40 cm. We fill the bottom of the trenches or the platform with sand by 20 cm and carefully tamp it down.

Please note that it will take about a month to build the foundation, if it is poured on your own, since concrete gains strength within 28 days. To speed up the process, you can use ready-made foundation slabs or blocks. But in this case, the financial costs will increase. Therefore, you must decide for yourself: what is more important for you - the cost or the speed of construction.

To make the foundation completely on our own, we install formwork from boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. An important element of the foundation is the reinforcing frame. For a strip foundation, we make a frame of reinforcement in the form of a rectangular parallelepiped. The reinforcement diameter should be 0.8 mm. For a slab foundation, the frame is made of a mesh with a cell of 200x200 mm and a reinforcement diameter of 0.8 mm. The mesh is laid in two layers at a distance of about 150 mm.

The formwork is poured with M200 concrete, rammed and leveled. After 28 days after pouring over the foundation (between the walls and the base), we lay a couple of layers of roofing material or other bituminous waterproofing material.

If you decide to make a strip foundation from ready-made blocks, they are simply laid in prepared trenches and fastened together with cement mortar. The slab base of prefabricated slabs is laid in the same way. The only thing is that lifting equipment is required to perform this work.

Construction of the box - we assemble the "skeleton" and sheathe it

Now that the base is ready, you need to make a frame. We begin work with laying the lower trim along the perimeter of the foundation. To do this, we use a bar with a section of 100x100 mm, we fix it on concrete with the help of anchors. Between ourselves we connect the timber in the corners "in half a tree" and fasten it with self-tapping screws and corners.

Next, we install racks 100x100 mm at the corners of the building and align them vertically. To attach the racks to the bottom trim, we use screws and steel corners. Additionally, we strengthen the racks with struts, which can be made from boards 20-30 mm thick. Immediately we connect all the corner posts from above with a strapping of a 100x50 mm beam. After that, we install racks along the walls with a step of 600 mm. Wall racks can be made from boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm and a width of 100 mm. We fix and strengthen them in the same way as the corner posts.

Then, from the side of the entrance, we install racks 100x100 mm, to which the gate will be attached, and connect them together with a beam of the same section. As a result, an opening will be formed. To strengthen it, you can install a metal frame around the perimeter from a corner or channel.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the frame, treat all boards and timber with fire-bioprotective impregnation, which will increase the durability of the structure.

Next, we carry out the roof frame. To do this, we lay rafters from boards 30x100 mm on the Mauerlat (upper frame trim). Since the shed roof will be subjected to a large snow load, we make the step between the rafters no more than 40 mm. In order to securely fix the rafters, we make cuts in the Mauerlat along the thickness of the rafters. We nail a board 100 mm wide to the ends of the rafters along the perimeter.

Now that the frame is ready, you can immediately sheathe the walls. To make the building warm, we fill the frame space with mineral wool in slabs. This insulation is cheaper than many other thermal insulation materials, but at the same time it is durable, fireproof and, most importantly, has a low thermal conductivity.

From the side of the room, we cover the walls with a vapor barrier film. To make the vapor barrier tight, we overlap the joints of the film sheets and glue them with double-sided adhesive tape. On the outer side of the wall, we cover it with a wind-moisture protective membrane in the same way and seal the joints with high quality.

In order to leave a ventilation gap between the skin and the films, we attach a crate of wooden slats with a thickness of at least 20 mm to the racks. To fasten the rails, we use ordinary screws. To save money, we will not pre-sheathe the outer walls with OSB boards, but will immediately install the siding. The only thing is that it is desirable to use durable metal siding.

To fasten the siding along the perimeter of the walls from below, we fasten the starting bar with screws, and also install corner profiles at all corners. Then we simply fill the siding panels into the corner profiles and fasten them to the crate with screws. From the inside, the garage can be sheathed with any sheet material, such as plywood or OSB. You can fix the sheathing on the crate with nails or screws.

When installing OSB boards or plywood, do not forget to provide expansion joints with a thickness of about 5 mm. These seams should be filled with sealant.

We lay the roof - we make the room dry and warm

Now let's start installing the roof. Since the rafters are already there, it remains to lay the roofing cake. We begin work by fixing the vapor barrier and the crate from the inside of the garage. Lathing slats must be placed across the rafters. On the outside, we lay insulation between the rafters.

Then we lay a super-diffuse waterproofing membrane on the rafters. As on the walls, on the roof the membrane is additionally fixed with rails, which serve as a counter-lattice. On top of the counter-lattice, we lay boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm perpendicular to the rafters in increments of about 30 cm.

Now you need to lay the roofing. An excellent solution for our construction is corrugated board - it is an inexpensive and durable material. Sheets of corrugated board are laid with a longitudinal and transverse overlap and fastened to the crate with screws. Fasteners are placed through the wave in a checkerboard pattern. You can use another option for roofing, for example, slate, which is also inexpensive. The principle of its installation resembles the laying of corrugated board, only instead of screws we use slate nails.

On this garage is almost ready, now it remains to install the gate. To save money, you can find suitable used metal gates on the ad. If not slab, at the end of the work we make the floor. For these purposes, you can lay paving slabs or pour concrete screed.

This completes the work. If all actions are performed correctly, as a result, the garage will turn out not only strong and durable, but also warm. At the same time, its cost will be several times lower than a traditional brick garage.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

In order for the car to serve for a long time and not present unpleasant surprises on the road, it must have its own cozy, weather-protected storage place. For your pet, you can independently build an inexpensive frame garage with your own hands.

This article will reveal all the key points in the construction of a frame garage and give detailed step-by-step instructions for its main stages of work. For clarity, our website contains photo and video materials, where you can get acquainted with all the intricacies of construction using the examples given.

Preparatory work

Work on the construction of a wooden frame garage, like any other structure, begins with a project. To do this, drawings and diagrams of the future building are carried out with the calculation of the amount of basic materials and the choice of the necessary tools.

Then a suitable site for construction is selected, preferably on a flat surface. It is cleared of stones and debris, leveled and compacted. To prepare a place for a garage, a site is marked out, pegs are driven in at the corners, after which the upper part of the soil is removed to a depth of about 50 cm.

Foundation laying

All structures based on a wooden frame, and in particular a frame-panel garage, are relatively light in weight, so they do not require laying a very solid foundation. The choice of the type of foundation for a frame garage depends on the features of its design, the condition of the soil on which construction is being carried out, and also on the basis of economic feasibility.

The best option is to pour a monolithic concrete slab, which simultaneously acts as a solid foundation and as a floor. To do this, our recess needs to be covered and compacted with sand. Then put geotextiles, and on top of it put and compact crushed stone. At the next stage, formwork is installed, waterproofing is laid, reinforcement is tied, after which the site is evenly poured with concrete mix and carefully leveled around the entire perimeter. It is possible to continue work only after the solution has completely solidified in 2-3 weeks.

Frame construction

The frame of our garage can be made of various materials. It can be metal and mounted from a stainless metal profile by welding. We will consider the option of how to build a wooden frame garage. Before construction, it is desirable to treat all wooden elements with a special compound to improve the strength properties and durability of the material.

The skeleton of the frame is erected, starting from a stable base. For this, boards of a larger section are selected, which are fixed in concrete with metal brackets. Then corner posts are installed in a clearly vertical position, fixed with additional supports.

After that, the upper strapping of the frame is performed. The structure is reinforced with intermediate supports, window and door trim is mounted. The frame is light, but strong and solid.

Roof erection

The roof of a frame garage can have a different design. It can be flat, single-sided or double-sided. The gable design is a more complex option, requiring certain knowledge and skills in construction.

The construction of the roof begins with the installation of the truss system. Then it is covered with any roofing material. It can be corrugated board or metal tile. A drain is installed to remove precipitation.

Sheathing frame garage

From the outside, the wooden frame can be sheathed with various materials, depending on budgetary possibilities and aesthetic considerations. It can be moisture resistant plywood, sandwich panels or just high-quality boards.

Interior walls can be built from clapboard, drywall, plywood or plastic panels. Mineral wool or polystyrene is used to insulate the frame garage.

The final step is the installation of metal gates. They can vary in the way they open and be sectional, sliding or retractable. The most common option is swing gates. After installation, the metal surface is treated with sandpaper and coated with a primer and paint to prevent the development of corrosion processes.

The article covers all the basic questions about how to make a frame garage with your own hands. The main thing is to follow the sequence of all stages of work and strictly adhere to the detailed construction instructions presented here.

Video of the construction of a frame garage