Tinting of paints and decorative plasters. Proper application of decorative plaster with your own hands Decorative plaster tinting
Bark beetle is the most popular decorative plaster coating for facades. And not only for them: it is often used as wall decoration and inside residential and public buildings.
This popularity is primarily due to the simplicity and speed of application, not the need for special skills to create a coating. But there is one difficult point in this matter regarding how to paint bark beetle plaster.
The texture of this decorative plaster is two-layer: in the process of leveling, solid mineral granules move in the thickness of the solution, leaving behind traces resembling the chaotic moves of a bark beetle.
These furrows can have a very different shape, change direction, and their depth is determined by the diameter of the granules. It is they who create the problem when staining.
So:
- If you take a roller with a short pile and try to save paint, then the recesses will remain completely or partially unpainted. It's not just ugly. Quality suffers, as the plaster remains unprotected from external influences.
- A roller with a fairly long pile, densely saturated with paint, easily reaches the bottom of the recesses, but it does not dry instantly, so it flows down the grooves. To avoid this and prevent a sloppy look of the finished coating, you have to collect streaks with a dry brush or other roller, spending time, effort and your own nerves.
What to do? Is there a guide to get around these problems? Yes, and not alone.
Methods for painting decorative plaster
You may encounter the difficulties described above when tinting any textured plaster that has a second layer. It is clear that they have long been known to finishing specialists and could not be left without a solution. It consists in double staining, which is performed in different ways.
Method one - tinting the plaster
You can add pigment to the plaster before applying it to the walls to get the main background. And then, when the coating is dry, paint it with the same or a different color using a short-haired velor roller. Your task is to prevent the paint from pouring into the grooves.
Note! Only polymer acrylic plaster can be tinted. Cement ones are less susceptible to pigmentation, moreover, their quality decreases when coloring substances are added in an amount of more than 5% by volume.
Depending on the selected colors of the base and top paint, the result can be very different.
Decide for yourself how to paint decorative plaster bark beetle:
- To match the color of the layers;
Monochromatic coloring
- So that the layers are of the same color range (dark substrate and light outer layer or vice versa);
- To get a game of contrasts, when a completely different tone is used to tint the solution than the main paint.
The hardest part about tinting plaster or paint is getting the same tone across all mixes or batches. Therefore, it is advisable to do this not with your own hands, but with the help of special machines available in large stores.
For reference. When using contrasting colors, this is not so important and a slight discrepancy in the tone of the base is allowed.
Method two - double staining
The technology described above is convenient, but not reliable enough, since a continuous protective coating is not created - the grooves are left without a layer of paint. Therefore, if quality and durability are more important to you, and not the speed and ease of finishing, choose double staining.
It lies in the fact that the first layer is applied quite thickly so that the paint penetrates into all the recesses. Leaks are eliminated with a sponge or a dry roller.
And after it dries, we act according to the already described scheme - it is beautiful in the second tone, but already so that it remains only on the convex sections of the plaster.
Advice. Since the price of facade paint is quite high, for the first layer it can be diluted in acceptable proportions. Another savings option is to use a tinted acrylic primer instead, which creates a thin, durable film on the surface.
To evaluate the result and understand whether you like it, do not rush to start large-scale work. Before you paint the bark beetle plaster, try several options on a sample or in an inconspicuous part of the house.
If the texture of the plaster is not pronounced, with small granules, it is quite possible that it will be possible to paint it perfectly in one go. But the deeper the grooves, the more responsibly you should approach this matter, even before the stage of applying the solution, think about how you will decorate the facade.
Conclusion
If a simple description is not enough for you to fully understand the process, we suggest watching the video in this article and getting some more interesting and useful information.
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ROCKdecorsil S 1.5mm - decorative, silicone, piece, granular.
ROCKdecorsil S 2.0mm - decorative, silicone, piece, granular.
ROCKdecorsil D 1.5mm - decorative, silicone, piece, grooved.
ROCKdecorsil D 2.0mm - decorative, silicone, piece, grooved.
Five questions about the construction of plaster facades
The facade is the visiting card of the house. Where, if not in the exterior, you can show all your creativity and imagination? There are many decoration options: siding, tiles, facing bricks. But one of the most attractive has always been and remains plaster. It allows you to create a unique play of colors and textures and implement a variety of style solutions.
At the request of the developer of a multi-storey building or the owner of a cottage, the building can turn into either a wonderful mansion of the mid-19th century, or a bright, laconic Scandinavian house, or an amazing art object. True, it is worth considering that the technology for installing plaster (or, as they are also called, “wet”) facades is quite time-consuming. The owner of real estate faces a number of issues that require certain knowledge and increased attention. Competent answers to them will help create a beautiful facade that will please the eye for many years.
Question one. What does the term "stucco system" mean?
The plaster system resembles a multi-layered "clothes" for the house. It consists of:
1) primer for building base;
2) glue for fixing thermal insulation;
3) insulation boards;
4) facade dowels for additional fastening;
5) reinforcing adhesive composition;
6) fiberglass mesh;
7) primer primer;
8) decorative plaster;
9) facade paint (if necessary).
Obviously, the performance of the entire system depends on the quality of each component, and it is important not to make a mistake when choosing the main components of the "wet" facade.
Question two. What insulation do you prefer?
In plaster systems, as a rule, stone wool or expanded polystyrene is used as thermal insulation. It should be noted that most materials made of expanded polystyrene have a low vapor permeability coefficient. 1
, that is, the house will be "not breathing", which may require the installation of powerful and expensive ventilation systems. In addition, expanded polystyrene refers to combustible materials. 2
, therefore, in accordance with current regulations, when using it, it is recommended to perform fire-prevention cuts from non-combustible insulation at the frame of windows and doors. Such a solution, by the way, will partially improve the vapor permeability of the structure.
One of the most popular materials is stone wool. This is a product of natural origin, created on the basis of basalt rocks. Stone wool is environmentally friendly, and its fibers can withstand temperatures up to 10,000C, which allows the heat-insulating layer to act as a barrier to the spread of fire. Over the years, such insulation does not shrink or deform, which makes it one of the most durable on the market - for example, ROCKFASAD slabs from ROCKWOOL will last at least 50 years 3 . The product was created specifically for the installation of "wet" facades in private houses: the material has an optimal density for applying plaster, provides high heat and sound insulating properties and is biostable, i.e. not suitable as food for rodents and insects and does not promote the growth of fungus and mold.
Question three. How to choose system components?
All materials included in the "wet" facade system must be combined according to their characteristics: thermal expansion, water absorption, frost resistance and vapor permeability. This is the only way to create a reliable and durable plaster system. Otherwise, when using incompatible components, the facade may begin to quickly collapse, and additional repair costs will be required.
To avoid problems, the construction industry advises to give preference to certified system solutions from a single supplier. These include, for example, the ROCKFACADE system from ROCKWOOL. It consists mainly of mineral components (heat-insulating stone wool slabs, cement-sand adhesive and reinforcing mixtures, water-dispersion paints, etc.), which ensures the incombustibility of the system, high vapor permeability and no restrictions in use.
The ROCKWOOL website has an online calculator for calculating the ROCKFACADE system. It allows you to take into account all the features of the cottage: the shape of windows and doorways, their overall dimensions, the number of corners of the building, the presence of balconies and loggias, etc. After the calculations, the program will give you how many and what components are needed to construct the facade.
Question four. What plaster do you prefer?
The market offers solutions for a wide variety of projects. A hint table with basic types of plasters will help you choose the right one (at the end of the article, see the note S hop-Facade, regarding the following table):
Question five. In what order should work be carried out?
Installation of wet facades is a process that requires professionalism, great accuracy and careful observance of technological regulations. In particular, all work is carried out at temperatures not lower than +50C and not higher than +300C. At the time of installation of the "wet" system, it will be necessary to protect it from precipitation and direct sunlight: for this, scaffolding with a special mesh is installed. Also, before installing the facade, internal “wet” processes, roofing, filling window and door openings, fixing brackets for air conditioners, video cameras, etc. must be completed. When the preparation is over, you can start the main work.
First you need to prepare the base: it must be strong and clean, the surface of the walls with irregularities of more than ± 10 mm must be leveled;
- After preparing the base, the base profile is fixed. It is necessary as a leveling element when gluing insulation, as well as to protect the lower part of the plate from external influences. The plinth profile is mounted at a height of at least 60 cm above ground level;
- Heat-insulating stone wool slabs are mounted with offset seams (like brickwork). Before applying the bulk of the adhesive to the insulation, it is necessary to rub a small amount of the composition into the surface of the plate to ensure the best adhesion. 4
;
- After the glue has dried (about three days), mechanical fastening is carried out with dowels: at least 6 pcs. per square meter;
- In parts of the building that are particularly subject to various loads (external corners, tops of openings, adjoining slopes to blocks of openings, etc.), special profiles are installed for additional reinforcement;
- A basic plaster solution is applied to the insulation using a trowel with 10x10 mm teeth, into which a reinforcing mesh is embedded. Cloths must have an overlap of at least 10 cm. The mesh is embedded so that it is in the upper third of the plaster layer;
- As soon as the base plaster layer dries, the surface of the facade can be primed. After the primer has dried, decorative plaster is applied with the smooth side of the trowel. On it, depending on the texture, a decorative pattern is created with a plastic grater. The total minimum thickness of the protective-decorative and base layers is 6 mm;
- If necessary, the surface is painted with paint after applying decorative plaster.
Of course, the installation of "wet" facades is best left to professionals, but nevertheless, the homeowner should be aware of what materials to choose and how to properly carry out the work. This will help to find a common language with representatives of the construction organization and track each stage of the installation of the facade. And then the cottage will surely become the pride of its owner.
Irina Orlova
___________________________
1) Annex "T" to SP 50.13330.2012 "Thermal protection of buildings"
2) For example, produced in accordance with GOST 15588-2014. Interstate standard. Heat-insulating polystyrene boards. Specifications»
3) Subject to the recommendations of the manufacturer related to the installation technology and operating conditions
4) There are quite a few rules for installing insulation, so manufacturers produce special brochures that reflect all the details of the installation. For example, more information about the installation of insulation systems with a thin outer plaster layer ROCKFACADE can be found in the Album of the facade system from the ROCKWOOL company, posted on the company's website in the "Library" section (www.rockwool.ru/library/brochures)
Note. S hop-Facade: apparently a typo:
Mineral plaster - "holds up well to moisture." It is good to withstand moisture, mineral plaster, can only if covered with paint. Without paint coating, mineral plaster, easily absorbs moisture, as it is produced on a cement binder.
Acrylic - "short service life" - a dubious conclusion.
Silicate - "self-cleaning" - it is doubtful, this is usually characteristic of the materials of the "silicone" group.
Decorative plaster is a great alternative to traditional wallpaper. Initially, it has a white or gray color, which allows homeowners to show imagination and create an interior in an original style with paint.
What paint to choose
To finish the facades, decorative plasters "bark beetle", "American" or "fur coat" are used, which are most often painted in one color. Acrylic, silicone and silicate coatings are suitable for painting them. They are resistant to moisture and, unlike oil and alkyd paints, create a vapor-permeable film on the surface.
Facade paints tolerate temperature fluctuations well and reliably protect plaster from atmospheric precipitation. Sold in the form of a white composition, which is tinted in a special machine or independently in accordance with personal preferences. The consumption of different types of paint on decorative plaster is slightly different. For a single layer coating with acrylic paint, approximately 170-200 g / m² will be required, with silicate - 150-300 g / m².
When working indoors, water-based, acrylic or latex paints are used. Water emulsion requires a two-layer application, after which the plaster acquires a matte surface.
Acrylic coatings are used mainly in rooms with a high level of humidity - bathrooms or kitchens. They are more wear-resistant than water-based paint, so they are also used for finishing textured plaster in corridors.
Latex paints practically do not differ in technical characteristics from acrylic ones. They are universal and fit well on any base, including cement and gypsum textured plaster.
From a technical point of view, the choice of any of these colors is not fundamentally important - the range of shades allows you to implement a variety of design ideas, so customers are mainly guided by the price of the coating. The only thing you should pay attention to when painting the facade of a building is whether the paint is suitable for outdoor use.
Technologies for painting decorative plaster
There are several common ways to paint decorative plaster:
- tinting;
- in one color;
- in several shades;
- dry brush;
- blur.
The coloring technology is not difficult even for beginners - it is enough to have a standard set of painting tools:
- roller - the length of the pile is selected depending on the texture of the surface;
- brushes of different widths;
- paint tray.
For painting large surfaces, it is convenient to use an airbrush. This greatly improves the speed and quality of work. Before you start painting, you must wait until the plaster layer has completely dried, and then treat it with a deep penetration primer, otherwise the paint may swell and crack.
tinting
The easiest way to paint plaster, used to obtain a basic shade. Decorative plaster is sold in the form of a white or gray composition, which is tinted by adding a coloring pigment. Its quantity depends on the required color saturation. Kohler is added to a container with plaster and intensively mixed until it acquires a uniform color.
The advantage of this method is that the plaster layer has the same color throughout its thickness and, in the event of small chips and scratches, they will be almost imperceptible. In addition, after drying, the plaster already has a color and there is no need for additional painting work.
Painting in one color
Another easy way is to paint the plaster in one color. The painter also calls it "in one pass." The paint is applied in an even layer using a roller or spray gun, while making sure that all the depressions and protrusions of the plaster are painted over. Then excess paint, in the form of smudges, is collected with a brush.
When working with a roller, the coloring is done in vertical stripes. Each subsequent strip is rolled with an overlap of several centimeters over the previous one. For uniform painting of the wall with a wide brush, the coating is applied first with vertical movements, then overlapped with horizontal ones. You can also first paint over the wall with a thick layer of paint with a brush, and then evenly distribute it over the surface with a roller.
One pass painting method can be used on all types of decorative plaster.
Painting in several shades
This method allows you to add expressiveness to plaster painted in one color. First, the paint is applied in one pass, as described in the previous method. Smudges on the wall and excess paint accumulated in the recesses of the plaster are carefully removed with a dry brush or roller.
To apply the second tone, use a roller with a foam coat or a sponge. The roller is rolled in the tray in such a way that a thin layer of paint remains on it. After that, they lightly walk along the protruding parts of the decorative plaster, as a result of which the recesses on the surface remain in their original color, and the protrusions acquire a different shade. The protruding parts can also be tinted on tinted plaster.
Dry brush painting
This method is similar to the previous one, only the protruding parts are painted with a brush. Initial painting is carried out by tinting or in one pass. Then, with a semi-dry brush, they pass along the tops of the relief. Basically, the second paint is chosen lighter than the main color. To give expressiveness to the surface, gold, silver and bronze colors are used, and glitter is also used.
Lightening plaster by blurring
The method is suitable for indoor use. First, a small area of the surface is painted in one pass with a thinned water-based paint. After that, in a circular motion of a wet sponge, they pass over the surface, blurring the paint. As a result, the paint in the recesses of the coating remains intact and contrasts against the general background of the wall. You can add an accent by additionally toning the protruding areas of the surface with a different shade using one of the above methods.
There is another common method to create a contrasting surface without using a sponge. To do this, a wall painted in one tone is allowed to dry completely for a day. Then, manually or with the help of a power tool, the surface of the wall is sanded, removing a thin layer of protruding sections along with the paint. This operation can also be performed with a spatula, working “on the swipe”.
Creating the effect of Venetian plaster
In the classic version, Venetian plaster, which imitates the surface of natural stone, contains crumbs of marble, granite or malachite. The cost of the coating is quite high, but this method allows you to create the effect of Venetian plaster using only a gypsum mixture, paint and a glazing coating:
- The wall is painted in one pass with a long pile roller so that all the recesses of the plaster are filled with paint.
- As the second shade, paint with a metallic sheen is used. It is diluted with a universal primer or other transparent base in a 1: 1 ratio.
- With light movements of a small foam rubber roller, they walk along the protruding sections of the relief. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there are no streaks on the surface.
- At the next stage, the plaster is coated with acrylic varnish. It is diluted by 30% with water and glitter is added to create a shimmering effect, at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of varnish. The resulting mixture is treated with a plaster surface using a foam roller. During operation, the varnish must be stirred regularly, since the glitter tends to settle to the bottom.
You can experiment and add other components to acrylic varnish, achieving a variety of effects and shades.
Additional compositions for processing decorative plaster
To make the appearance of the plaster more spectacular and create an additional protective layer, you can use wax, varnish and various glazes.
Wax creates a protective waterproof coating that gives the surface a sheen and a bright hue. Suitable for any type of plaster, looks especially impressive on the Venetian. On sale there are both transparent and colored compositions. Before application, dust must be carefully removed from the base. Plaster coating is done at one time without stopping. The setting time of the wax is about 4 hours, during this period you can still correct the resulting flaws.
Lacquer is a single layer finish. Creates a durable water-repellent film on the surface, which strengthens the plaster, protects it from damage and, most importantly, makes the appearance of the finish more attractive. To work indoors, acrylic varnishes are used, outside - on organic solvents.
Before work, the composition is thoroughly mixed, if necessary, glitter or coloring pigment is added. The coating is made in one layer using a foam roller. Approximate consumption - 50-80 g / m².
Glaze is a glazing translucent composition for the finishing coating of paint, which allows you to make smooth color transitions. It is applied to drawing on a plain and relief surface as indoors, and outside. Works can be carried out at a temperature of less than +10°C. The coating is applied with a sponge or a special mitten with strokes.
Customer selects invoices at decorative plaster or paint. It can be decorative plaster CT 60 and CT 174 with the texture "Pebble", CT 64 and CT 175 with the texture "Bark beetle" or one of the types of paint CT 42, CT 44, CT 48 and CT 54. Then, the client chooses the color he wants facades from the Ceresit shade catalogs, which are priced according to the price list A B C D E.
After the client's consent and payment, the tinting process is carried out at the company's tinting station. Ceresit equipment. Color is added to the base chosen by the client, which has a white color, and after mixing in a shaker, the desired color is obtained. Tinting process plasters and paints Ceresit takes on average 2 minutes for 1 bank.
Our Ceresitshop carries out the fastest coloring in Moscow on the day of the order. In our shop-studio are the colors of the most common colors. If necessary, we we can make any color decorative plaster, which is not in the Ceresit brand catalog. In addition, we will help you choose the color of the facade, paint the desired texture and color on a large format. We will also show a master class of the tinting process.
Also we let's make a probe plaster in the amount of 5 kg, and you do not have to pay for the whole jar.
branded warranty Ceresit for fading of light colors - 50 years.
We will be happy to promptly advise and help with the choice and calculation of your facade!
At the moment, the modern market offers many different types of finishes, but the so-called "bark beetle" textured finish has broken all records in popularity. An unpretentious pattern resembling wood eaten by a bark beetle can be found anywhere in our great homeland. Today we will talk about the reasons for such popular recognition, and also dwell on how decorative bark beetle plaster is made with our own hands.
Photo of a cottage trimmed with bark beetle.
Decorative plaster with bark beetle texture was widely spread about 10-15 years ago. At the moment, it is available in two forms, these are ready-to-use universal polymer compositions and mineral-based dry mixes.
The meaning here is simple, granules of a certain fraction are added to the general plaster mass, which leave such an original pattern on the walls.
The people fell in love with her for a number of virtues.
dry composition.
- Let's start with beauty. To be honest, this cladding looks very worthy. Aesthetics is not violated, both when viewed from a distance, and when viewed closely. For experts, the secret of this phenomenon is simple - drawings that copy natural motifs on a subconscious level calm the human psyche;
- But to be honest, any normal owner, after the word “like”, will ask a reasonable question, what will this beauty cost? And here "Bark beetle" is on top again. The price of such a cladding is more than affordable, because in fact it is just a good finishing plaster, to which mineral granules have been added;
- Another plus is the rather low weight of such a finish. The thing is that instead of traditional heavy sand, light mineral filler is used here. As a result, "Bark beetle" can be applied to almost any surface from a concrete wall to drywall or foam;
Bark beetle in the lobby.
- Environmentalists also have no complaints about this cladding. It can be used with equal success for both facade and interior work;
- As for temperature conditions, durability and resistance to the vagaries of the weather, then this type of cladding can be used throughout our great country, from sunny Krasnodar to harsh Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky;
- Professionals know that most facade plasters have one unpleasant minus., they can shrink considerably. Bark beetle has no problems with this, which greatly facilitates and speeds up the finishing process;
Original decoration of the room.
- For people with a developed artistic taste, this cladding fits perfectly. After all, the tinting of decorative bark beetle plaster can be made in any color or shade, which is especially important for interior spaces;
- But during the crisis, perhaps the most important advantage is the simplicity of arrangement. To make "Bark beetle" with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional plasterer, the main thing is to have a great desire. From our own experience, we can say with confidence that any home master is able to independently apply "Bark beetle". Actually, this will be discussed further.
Coating Technology
Tip: as a rule, it is much easier to work with ready-made polymer compounds, but the situation is exactly the opposite with Bark beetle. For a person who does not have fundamental knowledge and skills in plastering, it is better to take a dry mix.
Elements of textured finishing of columns.
Wall preparation
Since this type of composition belongs to the finishing direction, the basis for it must be prepared carefully. The least worries will be with smooth concrete or well-leveled cement plaster. Here it is enough just to prime the surface.
Some masters claim that the cement-containing base can simply be moistened with plenty of water. Perhaps this is true, but I still prefer to use the soil, it's cheaper than redoing everything later.
For interior work on drywall, one soil, even very good, will not be enough, because whatever one may say, there is paper on top. After priming, it will be necessary to apply a thin, about 1 - 2 mm reinforcing layer of putty, and it is better to take putty with increased strength, for example, the German Fugenfüller.
Polymer professional composition.
If the bark beetle is applied in a damp room or in the kitchen, then putty for arranging the base must be taken appropriate. Dry mixes based on cement will cost less, Ceresit is the leader among them, but it is better for a novice master to invest in a ready-made universal polymer composition. In dry, heated rooms, you can save money by using ordinary gypsum putty.
But most often this type of decorative plaster is used for arranging polystyrene foam. Inexpensive, proven insulation, covered with high-quality "bark beetle" is able to stand for several decades. And to maintain the proper appearance, it is enough to renew the painting once every 3-4 years.
Preparing the base here is not much more difficult. When the insulation is installed, a fiberglass plaster mesh is attached to the foam plastic and all this is covered with soil containing quartz dust. Theoretically, "Bark beetle" can be applied further, but the instruction requires covering the mesh with a thin layer of starting putty for outdoor work and it is better not to disturb it.
Combined finish.
Important: decorative plasters, unlike ordinary ones, are not intended for leveling walls. Their destiny is to protect and decorate the surface. Therefore, no matter what base you have to work with, it must first of all be even.
As for the choice of soil, although there are many offers on the market, there is an unshakable law of the builder - it is better to take all putties, primers, plasters and other materials from one manufacturer, choose your brand and stick to it. Indeed, within the same line, products will be 100% compatible.
Scheme with decorative trim.
From personal experience, I can advise you Ceresit CT16 primer. In addition to deep penetration, it also contains quartz sand. Consumption here fluctuates within 150 g / m², and at normal humidity and an average temperature of 20 - 25ºС it dries within half an hour. By the way, the same composition can be used to preserve surfaces for the winter, if the finish is not finished.
Important: in view of the fact that the decorative layer is often made quite thin so that the soil does not shine through, it is better to tint it to match the final color of the cladding.
Mixing the composition
As already mentioned, there are compositions ready for use such as Ceresit CT 63 and dry. So we will work with dry ones, it is much easier and cheaper. Mixing the solution is not difficult, but there is one caveat. The bark beetle seizes quite quickly, so the solution must be prepared without fanaticism, exactly as much as you can work out in half an hour or use an assistant so that he constantly kneads and adds.
Ceresit CT 63 "Bark beetle".
We will stir with a construction mixer, and in the absence of one, you will need to buy a mixing nozzle for an electric drill, since the price for it is affordable. Turnovers are set to small or medium, we do not whisk a cocktail and we do not need foam.
The technology is traditional. Initially, the required amount of clean water with a temperature of about 20ºС is collected in the container. After that, a working mixer is immersed in it and the dry mixture is gradually added. The consistency of the finished mixture should resemble thick sour cream.
Mixing composition.
The solution is considered ready when there are no lumps left in it. But it is still impossible for them to work, the solution must mature. To do this, leave it alone for 10-15 minutes and stir again before use.
Color palette.
Important: at the stage of preparation, the solution does not need to be tinted. The composition is prepared in portions and it is almost impossible to guess exactly with the amount of dye in each portion. As a result, at the finish, your wall will resemble a military camouflage coat. Tinting at the start is permissible only in ready-made polymer mixtures, and that requires professionalism.
Application of the composition
In theory, the question of how to make decorative bark beetle plaster is extremely simple. The plaster is applied to the wall with a wide spatula. Then it is leveled and rubbed with a plastic or wooden trowel, many people prefer to use a trowel, and some professionals even use a plaster falcon for leveling.
Application of the composition with a spatula.
The tool is pressed against the wall and moves in the right direction, adhering and squeezed out excess is removed with a spatula. At the same time, mineral granules slide over the surface, leaving characteristic furrows.
The whole difficulty is to clearly maintain the thickness of the layer, it should be slightly larger than the diameter of the granules. If the layer is too thick, then the texture will not be drawn, and if you overdo it and grind the plaster too thinly, then the base will be visible, which is also considered a marriage. There is no universal recipe here, you just need to fill your hand, so start somewhere from the far corner.
These compositions seize quickly enough and, if you work alone, you will have to equip the surface in stages. There is one important point here - it is strictly forbidden to overlap dried and fresh finishes. In this case, even after coloring, the overlays will be visible.
Working with a plastic trowel.
But there is a way out, and it is quite simple. You need to decide in advance on the size of the processed square. After that, masking tape should be glued around the perimeter of the working area and you can start applying. The solution is applied and rubbed with a slight overlap on the adhesive tape and at the end of the work, while the composition is still wet, the tape is removed.
As a result, you get a clear border. While you are preparing the next portion, the plaster on the wall will harden and you will need to glue a strip of tape again on top of the cut of the fine finish, it will protect it from applying fresh mortar to the already dried one. As a result, plastering will be performed clearly end-to-end, and if everything is done correctly, these joints will be invisible.
Warming and decorative finishing of apartments in a high-rise building.
Tip: in general, you should try to finish the wall in one day, so as not to make connections. To do this, it is better to get a partner. One person will apply and level the mortar with a spatula, and the second will rub the wall, giving it its final look.
The division of the surface into sectors.
Main types of finishes
In addition to the fact that the mixtures are dry and ready for application, the types of decorative bark beetle plaster are also divided according to the method of drawing the pattern, more precisely, according to the direction in which the furrows will lie.
- The simplest and, as a result, the most common is the vertical method of applying and grouting plaster. Here the trowel moves from top to bottom and back. For a novice master, this is the best option;
- The second most popular is the horizontal arrangement of lines. Despite the fact that these ornaments are similar, grouting requires more experience;
Invoice "Cork" or "Lamb".
- The most difficult is the diagonal grout called "Rain". Technologically, the process itself does not cause great difficulties, the whole problem is to maintain the same direction of the lines on the entire plane;
- The invoice called "Cork" or as it is also called "Lamb", is made with circular movements of the trowel and refers to simple arrangement methods. Moreover, circular chaotically applied furrows most of all resemble a natural pattern;
The main methods of grouting under the bark beetle.
- Finishing under the "Carpet", as shown in the presented diagram, is applied with parallel-perpendicular movements of the tool. As a result, you get a mixed pattern of horizontal and vertical lines;
- The so-called "Map of the World" is already closer to design delights. This texture is most often settled in the interior. Its essence lies in the fact that at first a background is made from lines of one direction, and when it dries, overlays of various shapes, colors and textures are applied to the wall using stencils.
Finishing type "Carpet".
Important little things
Although such a cladding ultimately perfectly holds all the vagaries of the weather, it is highly undesirable to mount it in the July sun. The fact is that in direct sunlight the solution will dry too quickly and, as a result, crack.
The same applies to excessively windy weather. In general, if work is carried out in the summer, then it is better to carry it out in the afternoon, when the heat has already subsided.
An important point is the staining process. Although a thin layer of plaster dries in 2 - 3 days, the wall should be painted no earlier than 2 - 3 weeks later. Acrylic paints for outdoor use are best suited for this purpose.
The glazed lacquered coating interspersed with particles of mica looks quite original. True, this is a big fan, because in sunny weather your house will shine like a Christmas tree.
vertical texture.
Tip: two-layer staining is now popular. First, a darker layer of paint is applied with a fur roller. And when it dries, you need to walk with light paint on top with a smooth roller. So textured furrows will be more clearly visible.
The price of goods and the cost of work is a separate sore subject. As for the price of the material, it naturally depends on the brand of the manufacturer. In the economy class, Monolith and SWISS are in the lead. The middle price niche is occupied by IN-TECK FASADE and Brozex. The elite segment of the market is currently represented by the Ceresit and Bergauf brands.
Wall primer.
Average table of the cost of work for some regions.
When choosing a mixture, the consumption of decorative bark beetle plaster per 1m2 plays an important role in the decision. It all depends, first of all, on the size of the mineral granules:
- Among domestic manufacturers in the economy class, it is believed that if the grain diameter is about 2 mm, then the solution will take about 2 kg / m²;
- At 2.5 mm, the mixture will need 3 kg;
- And for large granules, more than 3 mm, the consumption ranges from 3.5 to 5 kg.
In the elite segment of the market, not only prices and quality differ, but also the consumption of the material itself. Here already mixtures with fine grains under the brand name "XS" take about 700g / m². For medium sized "XL" grains, you will need about 1700g / m². A coarse grain layer "XXL" will require from 2kg/m².
Pair work.
Conclusion
Facade insulated with foam plastic and finished with bark beetle.