Roofs made of soft tiles: Installation of ridge and ridge shingles. We make a roof of soft tiles in stages

The roof of the house and other buildings, made of tiles, gives these buildings an architectural and artistic expressiveness, which is solved, including the roof unit. Its main part is ridge tiles, combined with other elements of the roof.

The duration of operation of the roofing depends on the quality of its installation. Consider the main ways of laying ridge tiles in stages.

What is such a tile?

The ridge part of the tile is called, laid along the upper horizontal line, formed at the junction of two planes. It is made in most cases from the same materials as the entire roof of the building. Its parts are supplied with a complete set of roofing materials for the entire area of ​​a particular roof.

Elements of various configurations are used, up to rounded ones. In the classic version, the roof ridge cover is represented by parts bent at a right angle, or with several bends.

The same elements of the ridge assembly are used when constructing roofs made of composite materials and slate. The price of composite products is higher, and galvanized products (for a slate roof) are lower than the cost of elements for metal tiles.

Undercut method

With this variant of the arrangement of the lining carpet in the valley is not required. First, tiles are laid along the first slope, which has the smallest slope, with an overlap on the second at least 30 cm.

Then tiling is performed on the steeper surface of the roof. At a distance of 5 cm from the axis, a line is marked with chalk along which the tiled coating is cut, laid second with the obligatory subsequent coating with waterproofing mastic.

Execution of domes and cones

Some projects provide for complex roof shapes, namely, the presence of cones and domes. There are two ways to arrange such a roofing. In both cases, work begins with the creation of a lining carpet.

Segment method

The surface of the dome must be divided into equal segments. Each of them is laid with ordinary tiles separately, and the joints are covered with ridge tiles in the same way as the ribs and ridges of the roof. The dimensions of the segments and the width of the ridge tiles must correspond to the scale of the covered roofing surface.

Seamless way

In this case, it is necessary to make a qualitative marking of the surface. At the bottom, at the base of the roof, notches are made equal to the size of a tile petal. These notches are connected to the top of the treated surface.

After mounting the first row with separate petals, the second row is mounted with a shift by half the petal and trimming the element to be laid. Similarly, all subsequent rows are laid with a shift and trimming, which is necessary due to a decrease in the area of ​​each subsequent row.

When the size of the trimmed petals is reduced by half, they begin to use the original size of the stacked elements. In this sequence, installation is carried out to the top of the dome or cone. The very top is framed with a metal cap.

Installation of the skate

The laying of ridge-cornice tiles is started from the side from which the wind blows more often in order to exclude the possibility of wind blowing and getting into the joints of precipitation, which can adversely affect the quality of the roofing.

Ordinary tiles facing the ridge are cut so that on the ridge there is a distance of 5 cm between the roofing coverings of two slopes. Then two lines are beaten off along the ridge, the distance between which corresponds to the size of the ridge element being laid.

The tile is smeared with mastic on the inside and mounted across the ridge with the long side. The overlap of each subsequent element on the previous one should be at least 5 cm. When installing hip roofing, laying tiles on the ridges is carried out from the bottom up, by analogy with laying a ridge element.

Ribs and kinks

In those places where ribs are formed at the intersection of the slopes, ridge-cornice tiles are installed, which is carried out in a similar way to the ridge device technology indicated above. Along the rib, a line is beaten off with chalk, along which the mounted tiles are aligned. Before laying, the ridge element is lubricated from below with mastic and fixed with two roofing nails on each side. Work is done from the bottom up.

To maintain the roofing in a condition that allows it to fulfill its functional purpose, it is necessary to properly operate it: periodically clean it from branches and leaves, clean the drainage system as it becomes clogged, clear it of snow, carry out preventive inspection and repair. Compliance with the installation technology and careful maintenance will significantly extend the life of the roof.

Useful video: installation instructions for ridge tiles

Features of installation of flexible tiles:
the minimum roof slope at which the use of flexible tiles is allowed is 1:5 (11.3 degrees) (Fig. 1).

Climatic features of installation:
in the case of installation of a roof made of flexible tiles at a temperature below +5 °C, packages with tiles should be stored in a warm room before installation. It is allowed to use a hot air gun during installation.

Winter is really not the best time for the installation of flexible tiles, because according to the recommendations of manufacturers, this material cannot be laid at temperatures below +5 degrees. C. The fact is that the shingle (a sheet with 3-4 “tiles”) is attached to a wooden base and a lining carpet spread over its surface with the help of nails and a self-adhesive layer, which is on the back of the shingle. In order to tightly glue the shingle to the base and shingles of neighboring rows, ensuring the tightness of the coating, the sun's rays are needed, which gradually “melt” the self-adhesive layer. And the sun in winter, alas, is not enough.

On the other hand, in recent years, winter in central Russia has been only occasionally cold. In addition, in sub-zero temperatures, you can carry out preparatory work for a flexible roof - mount a truss system, solid wood flooring, insulate the roof, steam and waterproofing, not forgetting to protect the roof structure from snow using a durable plastic film or ordinary roofing material. In the spring, without wasting precious time, lay flexible tiles, after removing the film or roofing material and laying the lining carpet.

With a strong need, you can mount a flexible roof in cold weather. To do this, a wooden or metal structure is built on top of the roof (or some of its sections), covered with a special noise-dust protective film or plastic film for scaffolding (the so-called "green house"). From the inside, the “second roof” is heated by electric or diesel heat guns, as a result of which the required positive temperature is reached. It is worth adding that the "warmhouse" covering the whole house makes it possible to carry out not only roofing, but also, for example, plastering work on the facade, which also needs heat. "Teplyak" is a difficult engineering structure: it must be resistant to wind and snow loads, and also convenient for moving people and building materials.

The main stages of roof installation

1) Ground preparation

Start your roofing by preparing the base. As a base for flexible tiles, a material with a continuous, even surface is used, to which nailing is possible. OSB, moisture-resistant plywood or grooved, edged board can be used as a base. The moisture content of the base material must not exceed 20% of the dry weight. The joints of the boards must be placed in the places of the supports, and the length of the boards must be at least two spans between the supports. It is necessary to take into account the expansion of the boards caused by fluctuations in humidity and temperature, leaving a sufficient gap between the boards.

The thickness of the board and plywood at different rafter pitches (determined by the design calculation) with a snow load of 1.8 kN / sq.m., a point load of 1.0 kN

Rafter pitchBoard thicknessplywood thickness
(mm)(mm)(mm)
600 20 12
900 23 18
1200 30 21

2) Ventilation gap device

The air gap should be large enough (at least 50 mm), the exhaust hole should be placed as high as possible, and the air intake holes, respectively, in the lower part of the roof.


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Ventilation is necessary for:

  • removal of moisture from insulation, lathing and roofing material
  • reducing the formation of ice and icicles on the roof in winter
  • reducing the temperature inside the roof structure in summer.

    Remember, proper ventilation is the key to a long roof life!

3) Installation of the underlayment

Ruflex K-EL 60/2200 roofing material or Ruflex rolled roofing insulation material is used as a reinforcing underlay under flexible tiles over the entire roof area. The lining layer is mounted in the direction from bottom to top parallel to the eaves of the roof with an overlap of at least 10 cm, the edges are fixed with nails at an interval of 20 cm, the seams are sealed with K-36 glue (Fig. 3).


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With a roof slope of more than 1:3 (18 degrees), it is possible to lay lining material only on roof ridges, in valleys, on cornice overhangs and in the end parts of the roof, in places of penetrations through the roof (around chimneys, in places where the roof adjoins vertical walls, around roof windows) (Fig. 4).


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Note: Depending on the method of fastening the drainage system, it may be necessary to install brackets for laying the underlayment.

4) Installation of metal cornice strips

To protect the edge of the lathing on the cornice overhangs from rain moisture, mount metal cornice strips (droppers) over the underlayment carpet with an overlap of min 2 cm. They are nailed in a zigzag manner with roofing nails with a pitch of 100 mm (Fig. 5).


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5) Installation of metal gable strips

To protect the edge of the lathing on the end parts of the roof, gable planks are mounted with an overlap of min 2 cm. They are nailed in a zigzag manner with roofing nails with a pitch of 100 mm (Fig. 6).


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6) Installation of the valley carpet

To increase water resistance in valleys, a RUFLEX SUPER PINTARI valley carpet, matching the color of the roof tiles, is laid over the underlayment. The edges are fixed with roofing nails at intervals of 100 mm (Fig. 7).


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7) Installation of cornice tiles

Next, mount the self-adhesive cornice tiles along the cornice overhang, having previously removed the protective film from its lower surface. Eaves tiles are laid butt-to-butt, retreating upwards from the place of inflection of the eaves strip 10-20 mm. Eaves tiles are nailed near the perforations, followed by overlapping of the fasteners with ordinary tiles (Fig. 8).


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8.1) Installation of ordinary tiles

Use a mix of 4-5 packs of roofing tiles to avoid color deviations. Laying ordinary tiles should be started from the center of the eaves overhang in the direction of the end parts of the roof (Fig. 9).


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Glue the tiles, having previously removed the protective film from its lower part (Fig. 10), (after that, individual tiles cannot be stacked on top of each other) and nail with four nails each slightly above the tile groove line (20-30 mm). If the roof slope is more than 1:1 (45 degrees), then each tile must be fastened with six nails (see Table 1).

Table 1. Consumption of roofing nails.

Lay the first row of tiles so that its lower edge is no higher than 1 cm from the lower edge of the cornice tile (Fig. 11), and the "petals" cover the junctions of the cornice tiles.


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Mount subsequent rows so that the ends of the "petals" of the tiles are at the same level or higher than the cutouts of the tiles of the previous row.

On the end parts of the roof, cut the tiles along the edge and glue with K-36 glue to a width of at least 10 cm (Fig. 12).


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In the valleys, cut the tile so that at the bottom of the valley there is an open strip of RUFLEX SUPER PINTARI about 15 cm wide (Fig. 13).


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Glue the edges of the tiles along the cut line to a width of at least 10 cm with K-36 adhesive. When cutting, place plywood under the tiles so as not to damage the bottom layer of the roofing carpet.

8.2) Installation of "Rocky" tiles

Laying of ordinary tiles should be started from the center of the cornice overhang in the direction of the end parts of the roof and the ridge. Lay the first row in such a way that the "petals" of the ordinary tiles cover the joints and the perforation line of the cornice tiles. Lay the next row in such a way that the junction of the lower shingles is located in the center of the medium-sized petal of the installed shingle (Fig. 14). Nail each row of tiles with four nails to the base just above the tile groove (20-30 mm) in the middle so that the nail heads are covered with the "petals" of the next ordinary tile.


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Note: Don't forget to remove the protective film from the shingle.

9) Installation of ridge tiles

Ridge tiles (0.25 x 0.33 m) are obtained by dividing the eaves tiles into 3 parts according to the perforations. Mount the ridge shingles on the roof ridge with the short side parallel to the ridge, having previously removed the film. Nail with four nails (2 on each side) so that the nails are under the next 5 cm overlap (fig. 15).


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10) Installation of roof junctions

Passages through the roof of small diameter (antenna, etc.) are made with the help of rubber seals. Chimneys and other pipes exposed to heat must be insulated. When installing flexible tiles near chimneys (Fig. 16) or other penetrations along the perimeter of the connection of the pipe with the roof, nail a triangular rail 50 * 50 mm. Next, mount Ruflex K-EL 60/2200 or Ruflex lining around the chimney, coat the overlaps with K-36 glue. Then place the roof tiles on a vertical surface and glue with K-36 adhesive. Glue the pipe around the perimeter with a SUPER PINTARI strip using a continuous layer of K-36 glue so that the top of the pipe is covered with a strip of at least 30 cm, and on the slope - at least 20 cm. which is fixed mechanically and seal the seams with weather-resistant silicone sealant. Adjacency to vertical walls is carried out in a similar way (Fig. 17).


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Application of sealing adhesive K-36

For sealing the following nodes: overlaps of the lining carpet; overlaps of ordinary tiles on the valley carpet, junctions, penetrations of carpet ventilation systems, use Katepal "K-36" glue. Glue consumption is indicated in Table 2

Table 2. Consumption of Adhesive "K-36"


general information

    Storage temperature: up to + 33 deg. With

    Application temperature: from + 5 to + 50 deg. With

    Drying time to touch: about 5 hours at 20 degrees. C, full: from 1 to 14 days depending on the thickness of the layer and the ambient temperature.

    Attention!

    Do not use K-36 to seal seams, crevices, etc. If there is an excess of adhesive, excessive dissolution of the bitumen is possible! The use of solvents or other chemically active compounds is not allowed.

    You can get complete installation instructions for flexible tiles at any point of sale when purchasing material.

    If your roof has a complex profile or for some other reason the installation procedure is complicated, it is advisable to contact specialists.

    How to care for a shingle roof

    To maintain the operational and aesthetic properties of flexible tiles, it is necessary to check the condition of the roof at least 2 times a year.

    It is recommended to sweep away leaves and other small debris from the roof with a soft brush that does not damage the roofing. Branches and other large debris must be removed manually.

    Ensure free drainage of water from the roof. To do this, it is necessary to clean the gutters and funnels of debris.

    It is possible to rake snow from the roof only if necessary, in layers, leaving a protective layer of snow on the roof of 10-20 cm. To remove ice, do not use sharp objects that can damage the roofing.

    If there is a need to repair the roof, you need to get down to business immediately to avoid more serious damage. When working on the roof, the roof covering must be protected.

The basis for soft bituminous tiles is fiberglass, bitumen and stone chips. The popularity of the material ensured complete immunity to corrosion and water resistance. It can be used on any roof shape, including domes. Basalt powder protects against heat and ultraviolet radiation, protects the bituminous base from precipitation and mechanical damage. Fiberglass ensures the strength of the material, and bitumen provides complete waterproofing. Due to the versatility of the coating, many are interested in how to cover the roof with a soft roof with their own hands.

Among the advantages of bituminous tiles:

  • ease of transportation and unloading due to low weight;
  • a small percentage of waste during installation, even on a curved surface;
  • soft material absorbs the sound of rain;
  • resistance to high and low temperatures;
  • plasticity and flexibility, allowing you to create various geometric shapes;
  • long operation;
  • lack of electrical conductivity.

Manufacturers of soft roofs offer several forms of cutting tiles and many colors.

Tools for work:

  1. Hacksaw.
  2. Roulette.
  3. A hammer.
  4. A trowel for mastic.

Where to start laying

It is possible to cover the roof with tiles scrupulously following the technological sequence of work. The first stage of arrangement is the preparation of the foundation. The waterproofing of the roof is affected not only by the quality of the bituminous shingles, but also by the crate. The base must be extremely even, strong and rigid. The pitch of the crate depends on the angle of the slope and the strength of the winds in the region, it is 50-100 cm. The base of sufficient strength will be a cut board made of coniferous wood, OSB, and moisture-resistant plywood. To protect against decay, materials are treated with an antiseptic. A gap of 3 mm is maintained between adjacent sheets for thermal expansion. The material used must be dried, humidity up to 20% is allowed. The boards are joined above the supports, the length of each overlaps two spans of rafters. The plates are stacked apart and fixed with self-tapping screws.

To avoid metal corrosion, galvanized nails are used.

Ventilation for soft roof

To ensure air circulation, holes are left at the highest point (on the ridge) and at the junction of the eaves. Ventilation allows you to reduce the temperature in the attic, remove vapors and condensate from under the roof, and avoid ice in winter. Openings for natural ventilation are evenly distributed along the length of the ridge and eaves.

The base should not adjoin waterproofing, so it is important to make a gap of 5 mm.

Lining device

With a roof slope of 12 to 18 degrees, rolled insulating material is spread over the entire roof. They begin work from below, from the cornice, laying the canvases parallel to it. The joints of the lining layer are overlapped, nailed every 20 cm. All seams are sealed with glue. If the angle of inclination is large enough, then separate sections are isolated: skylights, skates, valleys, cornices and ends. On the valleys, the lining material spreads on both sides, its width is at least 50 cm. On the cornice overhang, the value of the lining material is 60 cm.

Additional elements

The edges of the crate need to be protected from rain. To do this, a metal dropper is nailed along the eaves. It is attached to the cushioning layer with an overlap of 2 cm, nails are driven in every 10 cm.

The ends are covered with special metal gable strips, they are fixed in the same way as eaves - overlapping and over the insulating layer.

Valley - an area where leaks are possible, in order to exclude them, a valley carpet is laid. It is made of polyester fabric, processed with bitumen and basalt dressing. It is fixed on the roof with the help of mastic and nails, which are hammered 3 cm from the edge. The valley carpet is selected in the same color with soft tiles. The edge of the bituminous shingles is trimmed to leave 15 cm of carpet exposed. This is necessary to create a gutter through which rainwater will flow. The described method is considered optimal.

Nuances to know

  1. It is recommended to carry out work on laying rows of soft tiles at an air temperature of +5 degrees (°C). During frosts, it is impossible to ensure normal bonding of bitumen. In addition, the material becomes brittle and does not allow the creation of a curved structure. The connection of tile shingles with the base and with each other occurs when heated by solar heat.
  2. Working at a low temperature, the tiles are brought in small batches, and the bulk is stored in a warm room.
  3. You can not leave a soft roof under the scorching sun, so that the bitumen does not melt.
  4. Bituminous shingles have slight discrepancies in color, it is better to take shingles from different packs, then the transition will be smooth.
  5. Do not clean the roof with shovels, you can damage the coating. During installation, it is necessary to set the angle of the slope, which does not allow snow to accumulate on the roof.

Before starting work with flexible tiles, the base is marked. Horizontal lines are drawn in increments of 70 cm (five rows of tiles), the vertical marking is equal to the size of the shingle. This will allow you to lay them in even rows. The cornice row of shingles is laid first. It is made from a universal self-adhesive soft roof. Before starting work, the protective film is removed. Sheets are stacked end-to-end and fastened with nails along the perforation. Fixation points overlap with the next row.

Installation of flexible tiles starts from the middle of the eaves and moves to the ends. The first row should cover the tiles laid above the eaves, the distance between their lower edges is 1 cm. With a slope of up to 45 °, 4 nails are used to fasten one tile, with a larger value, 2 nails are added for reliable fixation.

The head of the nail should be flush with the surface of the bitumen shingles, and not cut into it.

The petals of the next rows should be at the same level and cover the perforation of the previous row. Depending on the cutting of the tiles, the offset of the next row is selected. This allows you to form a chaotic or ordered pattern. Most models are stacked with an offset of half a petal. The markings made before starting the installation will allow you to continue the rows of flexible roofing interrupted by dormer windows or chimney pipes. At the ends, soft tiles are cut off, not reaching 1 cm to the plank, and its edges are glued with a mastic layer 10 cm wide and nailed.

When cutting the material, plywood should be used as a substrate, this will protect against accidental damage to the lower layer of soft tiles.

On the valley carpet, the dimensions of the gutter are marked, it can be from 5 to 15 cm. It should be noted that a 30 cm zone is formed near the gutter, which is not nailed. The tiles are cut along the border of the gutter. The upper corner of the shingle is cut off to break the water. With the help of a trowel, mastic is applied to the edge of the tile and attached to the carpet.

Features of finishing the ridge and roof ribs

To make a tile suitable for a ridge, it is necessary to cut an ordinary bituminous tile into three parts. On the edges of the roof, ridge tiles are laid from the bottom up. After removing the protective film, it is glued and fixed with four nails two centimeters from the edge. The next part is glued with an overlap of 5 cm.

Tiles on a ridge are laid against the prevailing winds. For ease of installation, each part of the ridge tile is heated in the middle and bent along the edge of the bar to form an angle. The tiles are attached to a bituminous base and 4 nails. In the ridge row, soft tiles overlap each other with an overlap, like ordinary ones.

To ensure sealing at the junctions with antennas, chimney or ventilation pipes, a valley carpet or galvanized metal is laid. When choosing a carpet, a plinth is installed on the pipe. The pattern of the material used is laid with an overlap of at least 20 cm on ordinary tiles. The back side of the carpet is smeared with bituminous mastic. It is glued along the perimeter of the pipe, the places of contact with the tiles are treated with 10 cm bituminous mastic. The top of the carpet, which goes over the pipe, is closed with metal strips.

For the installation of roofing penetrations, special passage elements are purchased. Such an element is laid with a 2 cm approach to the roof. A hole is cut in the base. The skirt of the element is glued with mastic and nailed. Its surface is covered with bituminous tiles, and the remaining joint is covered with mastic and sprinkled with basalt chips to protect against ultraviolet radiation.

A properly laid soft roof will provide reliable protection for your home for at least 30 years.

Video

A detailed video on the installation of flexible tiles:

Soft roofing materials are an excellent alternative to traditional slate and sheet metal. Roofs covered with flexible tiles are distinguished by their stylish appearance and high reliability. But you can only get both if you follow the installation technology. Of course, the easiest way is to hire a team of professional roofers, but you can forget about the budget of construction - at best, the work will cost the same amount as building materials. And at the same time, it’s not difficult to save money - it’s enough to do the laying of a soft roof with your own hands. Masters with many years of experience will tell you how to do it right today.

What is a soft roof

Composite, soft or bituminous tiles, shingle roofing, shinglas, roofing tiles - all these are the names of the same building material - flexible tiles. Representing flat sheets of small size (most often 100x34 cm), the shingles have figured cutouts that divide them into several petals. Laying by shifting one row relative to another gives the very effect that makes the roof look like a tiled one.

Due to the fact that soft tiles are available in a variety of shapes and colors, it is easy to choose the most suitable design option.

Today on sale you can find a soft roof covering with petals of any shape - rhombic, triangular, hexagonal, oval, rectangular, in the form of a wave, etc. In addition, there are a considerable number of colors. And yet, despite such diversity, they all have the same multi-layered structure and composition.


The optimal size, modern technology and the use of high-quality materials give flexible tiles many advantages over other roofing materials:

  • ease of installation;
  • light weight;
  • high sound absorption;
  • resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as their sudden changes;
  • the ability to cover the roof of the most complex design;
  • resistance to ultraviolet and infrared radiation;
  • dielectric ability;
  • resistance to corrosion and bacteria;
  • wide range of colors;
  • durability - depending on the manufacturer, the service life of bituminous tiles is from 20 to 50 years;
  • efficiency - the amount of waste usually does not exceed 5%;
  • maximum water resistance and minimum water absorption - no more than 2%.

In fairness, it should be noted that flexible tiles require additional costs for the arrangement of a solid base, and are also not suitable for roofing in severe frost. But compared to the long list of advantages, these disadvantages can be neglected.

Roofing cake for shingles

Roofing cake is called a multi-layer structure, which serves as the basis for laying soft tiles. It includes some elements of the truss system, crate, thermal insulation, lining and moisture-proof material - it all depends on how the attic is equipped. There is a roofing cake for warm and cold roofs. The destiny of the first is to create a base for bituminous tiles on outbuildings, summer cottages, garages, sheds, etc. If it is necessary to build a roof for a house intended for year-round use, then it should be made warm.

Insulated shingle roof

The main element of the roofing cake for warm roofs is a heater. In many ways, this determines the need for several layers that are needed for its normal functioning.

The soft roof of residential buildings is built according to the "warm" type, so the roofing cake has a large number of functional layers

The key to long-term and reliable operation of the roof is the ventilation duct, which is necessary for ventilation of the under-roof space. Although, depending on the region, the structure may contain one or more layers of thermal insulation, the standard base of a warm roof is built according to the following scheme:

  1. Soft tiles.
  2. Lining carpet.
  3. Solid base made of plywood, OSB or solid boards.
  4. Upper trim.
  5. A counter-lattice that creates a ventilation gap.
  6. Moisture protection.
  7. Sheet or roll thermal insulation.
  8. Bottom trim.
  9. Vapor barrier membrane.
  10. Rafter.

Most often, the construction of a roofing pie is carried out from above. At the same time, thermal insulation is laid on a rough crate and a vapor barrier. If the work on thermal insulation of the roof is carried out from the side of the attic, then a polypropylene cord is used to support the insulation - it will not let it sag while the vapor barrier and the lower crate are being installed.

When constructing a roof in the northern regions, the section of the rafter legs may not be enough to install thermal insulation of the required thickness. You can get out of the situation with the help of an additional beam, which is mounted perpendicular to the rafters. In this case, the installation step of the sparse counter-lattice is selected taking into account the width of the insulation boards - they must fit into the cells with little effort.

Cold shingle roof

Since during the construction of a cold roof there is no need for insulation and related materials, the design of such a roof is noticeably simplified, and, accordingly, its installation is facilitated. In general, the roofing cake should contain the following layers:


The opinion that bituminous shingles in themselves are excellent waterproofing materials does not give the right to refuse the use of an underlayment carpet, even if it is a cold roof for an undemanding canopy. On slopes less than 18 degrees, such savings often result in moisture penetrating under the soft surface. The result of a careless attitude to technology can be unattractive stains on shingles and wooden structural elements affected by fungus and mold. And if the first “only” reduces the aesthetics of the roof, then the second significantly reduces its service life.

You can refuse to use a lining carpet only on roof slopes with a steepness of more than 18 degrees, and even then only partially. It is imperative that areas such as the ridge, valleys, overhangs, exit points of ventilation or chimney pipes, as well as engineering communications passages, be additionally protected from moisture.

Video: features of a roofing cake for shingles

What you need when installing a soft roof: tools and materials

As noted above, one of the advantages of a soft roof is ease of installation. Indeed, subject to the technology, it is quite possible for a person with minimal skills in construction to build even a two-layer warm roof with his own hands. At the same time, there will be practically no need for the cost of tools and equipment - everything that is needed is always at hand from a real home master. If you are going to lay bituminous tiles, you should prepare:

  • hand saw or electric jigsaw with a blade for woodworking;
  • knife for cutting shingles;
  • spatula and trowel;
  • a hammer;
  • nail puller or powerful pincers;
  • measuring devices - tape measure, cord, plumb line and level;
  • chalk and pencil.

If you plan to work in the winter, then you will additionally need a blowtorch (gas burner) in order to heat the mastic. The minimum temperature at which soft roofing can be laid is minus 15 °C. In any case, it is best to do construction work at an outside temperature of 15–20 °C. This will prevent damage to the materials and ensure a secure bond between the adhesive layer and the underlayment.

Installation of flexible tiles can also be carried out at a negative temperature, however, equipment will be needed in order to heat the substrate and bituminous mastic

To provide the necessary rigidity to the base, a solid type crate is used in the construction of a soft roof. Otherwise, the bituminous coating, along with the roofing cake, will sag and quickly become unusable. You should not think that plywood or OSB boards can be fastened directly to the rafters and thereby save on battens. Of course, such a method is quite acceptable for the simplest structures such as a barn or gazebo, however, when building a residential building, one cannot do without additional costs for lumber. And this is due not so much to the requirements of mechanical strength (the same boardwalk easily solves this problem), but to the need to equip the ventilation gap with the help of a counter beam.

In addition to solid flooring and sparse lathing, the base design must also include a counter beam that provides ventilation for the roofing pie.

So, under the shingles it is necessary to install two layers of sheathing. A wooden beam or board is laid in the first tier, and flooring made of plywood, boards, OSB, or a combination of these materials is used as a solid base.

If a double continuous crate is constructed from boards, then the first layer is mounted in a row, and the elements of the boardwalk are attached close to each other at an angle of 45 ° to the ridge. In this case, the boards of the lower tier must have a thickness of more than 25 mm and a width of 50 mm. When determining the step of their laying, the cross section of the lumber is taken into account. It is usually possible to eliminate the possibility of deflection of the boards of the upper row at intervals of 200–300 mm. Sheathing the crate starts from the ridge, leaving a gap of at least 3 mm between the boards to eliminate the effects of temperature deformations. Sheathing lumber must have a cross section of at least 20 mm and a width of more than 100 mm.

A single-layer crate can only be used when arranging roofs for undemanding structures

Installation of a double combined crate is less time consuming, so it is used most often. In this design, boards or bars are used for the lower layer, and sheet lumber is used for the upper one. The wooden base of the cold and warm roof is performed differently. In the first case, thermal insulation and a diffusion membrane are not installed, therefore, to assemble the frame, only a sparse crate is needed, on top of which sheets of plywood or OSB are fixed. If insulation is required, then an additional layer of lathing is used in the form of a beam, which is stuffed along the rafters. Thanks to him, a gap is formed between the waterproofing film and the large-panel flooring.

Calculation of flexible tiles and other materials of the roofing pie

To determine the required amount of roofing tiles, insulation and waterproofing, the same principle is used as for any other covering material. In the general case, it is necessary to calculate the quadrature of all roof slopes and make allowances for trimming, waste, various allowances, etc.

Before determining the consumption of roofing materials, you will need to find the total area of ​​\u200b\u200ball roof slopes

The easiest way to calculate materials for gable roofs - you just need to find twice the area of ​​\u200b\u200ba rectangle with sides in the form of the length and width of the slope. At the simplest hip roof, the slopes form two trapezoids and a pair of triangles, so it will also not be difficult to calculate the total surface quadrature. After that, the calculation of the materials of the roofing carpet is carried out taking into account the following amendments:

  • bituminous tiles - from 3 to 4 percent for trimming and shifting shingles;
  • waterproofing and underlayment - at least 5% in order to overlap adjacent canvases;
  • rolled fibrous insulation - according to the total area of ​​​​the roof;
  • rigid slab thermal insulation and wooden flooring - taking into account the maximum laying of whole panels, but not less than 3% for trimming and joining.

When starting to calculate materials for combined roofs, it would be useful to sketch a diagram with a detailed indication of the location of the valleys, external corners and the dimensions of each structural element. A more complex structure will require additional costs for materials for the roofing pie:

  • OSB, plywood and rigid board insulation - a margin of about 10%;
  • overexpenditure of waterproofing and lining carpet - up to 5%;
  • soft roll and slab heaters - up to 2%;
  • flexible tiles - at least 10%.

Having calculated how many covering materials will be needed, one should not forget about the materials for arranging valleys and skates. When determining the molding of the valley carpet, it is necessary to make an amendment of no more than 1%. As for the ridge cover, here they take into account not only the tops of individual parts of the roof, but also each external bend with an angle of more than 120 degrees.

Which roofing nails are suitable and how many will be needed

For the installation of soft roofing tiles, special nails with wide heads are used. Thanks to them, the fixation area increases, which means that the risk of shingle damage during installation and during operation is reduced. Manufacturers produce two types of fasteners - with notches on the rod and with a smooth rod. In the process of laying, you can use both. Experience shows that the teeth on the nails for shingles are nothing more than a marketing ploy, because when you try to pull the edge of the petal, the material itself is more likely to break through. Pulling even the smoothest nail out of wood will be disproportionately difficult.

Nails for soft tiles differ from ordinary ones with a cap of increased diameter

Tile nails have the following dimensions:

  • length from 25 to 30 mm (nails for automatic pistols are longer - up to 40 mm);
  • rod thickness - 3 mm;
  • cap with a diameter of 8 to 10 mm.

The number of nails that will be needed for the installation of soft tiles is determined only after the number of roof tiles has been calculated. One tile sheet is fastened with at least four nails, which should be hammered in at a distance of 145 mm from the bottom edge and 25 mm on each side.

Affects the consumption of fasteners and the slope of roof slopes. So, on gentle surfaces with an angle of inclination up to 45 °, four nails per shingle will be enough. If the slope has a steepness of more than 45 °, then two more nails are used for reinforcement. Depending on the type of flexible shingles, they are hammered into the corners of each strip or onto the fastening line applied by the manufacturer of the roofing material. When installing the valley and lining carpet, nails are hammered along the perimeter of the strips, observing a step of 20–25 cm. Additional elements are fixed in a checkerboard pattern, placing fasteners at a distance of 15–20 cm.

When installing shingles, it is necessary to hammer in nails correctly, otherwise the coating will not last long

1 kg contains up to 400 roofing nails, which allows you to roughly estimate their consumption. So, for the arrangement of 100 sq. m soft roof will need from 8 to 10 kg of fasteners.

What is the best way to cut flexible tiles

During the installation process, bituminous shingles have to be cut both along the edges and at the junctions, in valleys and at external corners. Very often, novice roofers use a paint knife or metal shears for cutting. Well, in the absence of an alternative, even large cutting scissors can be used. And yet, none of these tools will give such a smooth cut line and such convenience as a special roofing knife for shingles. The presence of a hook blade allows you to cut on the weight and cut the material in place, applying a minimum of effort and getting an extremely even and neat cut. By the way, an ordinary construction knife can be turned into a roofing knife in no time. All that is needed for this is to replace the trapezoidal blade with a hook blade. You can buy the latter in building markets - most often such canvases are sold in sets of 3-5 pieces.

With the help of a hook blade, an ordinary construction knife can be transformed into a specialized tool for cutting shingles

Installation of lathing and other elements of the roofing pie

The construction of a roofing pie can be started immediately after the rafter system is ready. Preparation of the base of the soft roof consists of several stages.

  1. Installation of vapor barrier. A layer of diffusion film is needed in order to prevent moist air from entering the insulation and to remove excess moisture to the outside. When constructing a cold type roof, there is no need for a vapor barrier. If a warm roof is being installed, then without a diffusion membrane, the thermal insulation can get wet and quickly become unusable. The film should be installed from the side of the attic along the rafters - this will also protect the supporting wooden frame from moisture. The vapor barrier is spread out in horizontal sheets and fastened in the direction from the eaves to the ridge. For reliable fixation, horizontal bars are used, which are nailed to the rafters in increments of 60 cm. Subsequently, these strips can be used for mounting interior trim.

    To fix the vapor barrier, it is convenient to use the slats of the counter-lattice or planks, to which the attic trim will subsequently be attached

  2. Thermal insulation laying. Plates or panels of insulation are placed in the space between the rafters. For this reason, even at the stage of their installation, care must be taken that the step of the rafter legs is equal to the width of the heat-insulating material. The plates are laid directly on the film, if possible, apart. If their thickness exceeds the cross section of the rafters, then along the latter a timber is stuffed, which will compensate for the difference in size. Thermal insulation is covered with a windproof membrane, which is fixed with a counter beam with a section of 50x50 mm. Such a trick will just allow you to kill two birds with one stone - to fix the film and provide a gap between the insulation and the upper layers of the roof.

    When installing a rafter system, the step between the lags is often selected according to the size of the insulation

  3. Lathing fastening. Reiki or boards of a sparse crate are nailed at right angles to the counter beam. The step of their installation is determined by the thickness of the flooring, so when determining this parameter, you should use the table below.
  4. Arrangement of a solid base. For flooring, board materials that have maximum moisture resistance are best suited - OSB panels or FSF plywood. It is desirable to fasten them to the crate with the help of self-tapping screws, orienting the plates apart.

Table: dependence of the thickness of a solid flooring on the step of a sparse crate

Step of lathing or rafters, mmPlywood sheets, mmOSB, mmBoard, mm
300 9 9 -
600 12 12 20
900 18 18 25
1200 21 21 30
1500 27 27 35

From my own experience I can say that the optimal thickness of the plates is 10 mm. Such a flooring will not sag even under a powerful snow load and will ensure the calculated durability of a soft roof. When choosing plywood, you should give preference to coniferous varieties of wood. As practice has shown, such a flooring is practically not amenable to deformation under temperature extremes and high humidity. I use a water-repellent compound for additional surface and edge treatment of the sheets. As for the OSB, the technology of their manufacture allows you not to bother with any impregnations - such material can easily withstand even small leaks. That, however, does not remove the need to timely identify and eliminate defective areas.

When laying the plates, a deformation gap of 2 to 5 mm should be left. Otherwise, a solid base can “lead”, due to which the roof will lose its external attractiveness or even leak. The flooring should not reach the ridge itself - for normal ventilation of the under-roof space, a gap of at least 70 mm is required.

Video: how to make a crate for soft roofing tiles

Instructions for laying shingles

The arrangement of soft roofing occurs in several stages:

  • formation of the lining layer;
  • markup;
  • fastening of additional elements of the roof;
  • installation of flexible tiles;
  • sealing passages and junctions.

Work is best done in the summer. The bitumen and mastic will be warmed up by the sun's rays, thanks to which it will be possible to obtain a durable monolithic connection of the roofing tile with the substrate.

Underlay installation

As a lining for a soft roof, rolled bituminous materials are used, which are mounted both along and across the slope. To ensure the tightness of the joints, the lining is spread with an overlap of at least 10 cm along the line of the panels and 15 cm - in the places of transverse junctions.

When installing the underlay, take into account the geometry of the roof to ensure maximum tightness

On roofs with steep slopes, only the most leak-prone areas need waterproofing - valleys, ends and overhangs of cornices, junctions with vertical sections, a ridge, etc. It is only important that the joints of adjacent surfaces are protected by a lining carpet on both sides, and its width was:

  • at the junctions of adjacent slopes - more than 50 cm;
  • on skates - at least 25 cm on each side;
  • at the edge of the slope and along the line of the eaves - 40–50 cm.

The lining carpet is fastened with nails or building staples, which are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. In valleys, the fastening step is reduced to 1–15 cm, and bituminous mastic is used for more reliable fixation.

Fastening of additional elements

Additional elements of a soft roof allow you to protect the lathing and other details of the wooden frame of the roof from precipitation. Cornice strips (droppers) are installed on the cornice overhangs over the waterproofing and fixed in a checkerboard pattern using the same nails for soft roofing. The frequency of the nail fight should be no more than 10 cm. At the docking points, the metal strips are laid one over the other by 3–5 cm. In the same way, the gable strips are also fixed at the ends of the slope. The only difference is that it is important to follow the direction of installation - from the eaves to the ridge.

The edges of the soft roof are protected with eaves and gable strips

Before installing flexible roof tiles, horizontal markings must be applied to each slope. With it, it will be much easier to observe the correct location of each row. You can draw a straight line with a strong twine, which is first rubbed with chalk. Having fixed the cord on both sides of the slope, it is pulled and sharply released. Hitting the substrate or wooden base, the twine will leave an even trail.

When laying the starting shingles, it is important to make the necessary indentation from the edge of the eaves.

Cornice tiles are made in the form of straight shingles, not divided into separate petals. Usually starter strips are sold at a higher price than ordinary tiles. For this reason, some craftsmen simply cut off the petals from them and fasten them with this side out. For fixing, standard wide-head nails are used, which are placed with a 25 mm indent from the edge of the tile. Each next strip of cornice tiles is fastened end-to-end with the obligatory coating of the junction points with bituminous mastic. The distance of the shingle from the edge of the eaves should be 10–20 mm.

First of all, the roofing material is mounted at the junction of adjacent slopes (if any are provided for by the roof structure). For these purposes, manufacturers produce a special valley carpet. When spreading, it is brought to both contacting surfaces, glued and additionally fixed with nails.

The valley carpet is brought on both sides of the slopes, glued with bituminous mastic and then fixed with nails

Starting the installation of ordinary tiles, shingles from all packages should be mixed. Thus, it will be possible to avoid a situation with an uneven color shade of the roof or the appearance of pronounced stripes of a certain tone.

Laying ordinary tiles start from the middle of the eaves, placing the tiles in vertical rows to the edges of the slope. The first row is mounted at a distance of 20-30 mm from the edge of the cornice tiles. In order to get the same "tiled" pattern, the top row is shifted relative to the bottom. In this case, the upstream petals should overlap the cuts and attachment points of the lower strips.

The shingles themselves are fixed like this:


Ridge arrangement

The ventilation scheme of the under-roof space can only work if the passage of air at the roof ridge is provided. For this purpose, special plastic aerators are used, which are attached to the elements of the truss system with nails or self-tapping screws.

High-quality ventilation of the under-roof space can be provided using special aerators

Ridge tiles are obtained from eaves, cutting the latter along the perforation. Individual tiles are laid across the ridge, secured on each side with two nails. In this case, each subsequent sheet is applied to the previous one by at least 5 cm, and a layer of bituminous mastic is applied to the junction.

From above, the aerator must be closed with ridge tiles, otherwise the plastic elements will suffer from weathering and solar radiation

Protection of passages and junctions

If various engineering communications pass through the roof - antenna stands, ventilation pipes, etc. - special passage units are installed in these places. Their fastening to a solid base is carried out even before the laying of a soft roof, in order to run shingles from above during the installation process. After that, soft tiles are glued to the penetration with bituminous mastic, after cutting the shingles in place.

In places where the slopes adjoin walls, chimneys and brick ventilation ducts, the top layer of the roofing pie is brought to a vertical surface. To avoid damage to the roofing at the bend, a plinth (triangular) rail is attached at the junction of the wall and roof. The lining and edges of the tile sheets are smeared with bituminous mastic and carefully glued to the mating surfaces. All that remains is to protect the edge of the shingles from moisture flowing down the wall. To do this, a valley carpet is mounted on top of the roofing, on which an abutment bar is nailed in the upper part.

The most common mistakes when installing a flexible roof

Violations in the technology of installation of shingles lead to leakage and reduce the reliability and durability of soft roofing. The most common installation errors include:

  1. Laying shingles on roofs whose slopes do not fit within the allowable limits.
  2. Installation of a soft roof without a lining carpet or the use of partial moisture insulation on sloping slopes.
  3. Insufficient length of nails for shingles in case of boarding.
  4. Fastening of soft roof tiles with building brackets.
  5. Insufficient ventilation of the roofing pie or lack of diffusion vapor barrier.
  6. Installation of solid base plates without expansion gaps.
  7. Insufficient thickness of the base plates.
  8. Lack of batten support under plywood or OSB joint lines.
  9. Arrangement of junctions and nodes of passage through the roof in violation of the requirements of tightness.
  10. Fasteners too close to the edge of the shingles.
  11. Installation in violation of the temperature regime.

Unfortunately, the list of mistakes made by novice roofers can be very long. Meanwhile, all the nuances of installation are provided by the manufacturer and are provided in the technological map, which can be found on the official website or in the instructions for the soft roof.

Video: errors when stuffing shingles and how to fix them

Being one of the most technologically advanced and durable roofing materials, flexible tiles do not tolerate careless attitude and haste during work. It is possible to hope for a long service life of a tiled roof without leaks and damage only if all the requirements of the technology are met. During operation, it will be necessary to monitor the condition of the ventilation openings, repair damage in a timely manner, periodically clean the roof of moss and treat it with antiseptic solutions. Not such a difficult task, right?

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Ventilation is a process consisting of exhaust and air supply. Ridge ventilation ensures that cold air enters from below through the gaps left in the area of ​​​​the cornice overhang and exits from above through a ventilated ridge.

Air moves throughout the under-roof space, due to which a favorable microclimate is created there.

A ventilated ridge for a soft roof is a “second backup roof” raised above the main one with a gap for air to escape. This is a hole at least 5 cm wide at the top of the ridge along its entire length, over which a cover is installed. Its second name is a ridge aerator.

Functional purpose

  • it provides air exchange in the under-roof space;
  • prevents the formation of condensate;
  • removes moisture vapor;
  • excludes air stagnation.

Ventilation must be balanced: together with the ventilated ridge device, an air intake is provided in the cornice area.

Proper operation of ventilation:

  1. in winter, it completely eliminates the formation of ice on cornices and overhangs, removing excess heat that penetrates from the house into the under-roof space;
  2. in summer it removes hot air, preventing excessive heating of the attic.

When installing a soft roof, a ventilated ridge can be installed in two ways - buying and installing a ready-made aerator or making it yourself.

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Ridge aerator for soft roofs

Manufacturers of roof ventilation systems and materials offer convenient and practical aerators, which provide everything necessary for their installation and operation.

  • Aerators are made of durable plastic, the service life of which is up to half a century.
  • Able to withstand temperature fluctuations from -50 to +60 ° C and gusts of hurricane wind.
  • They can be mounted on the roof of any design; roofing nails are used for fastening.
  • They are produced in strips that have a convenient coupling system between themselves.
  • They are protected from insects, small birds, debris.

From above, the aerators are covered with a soft roof according to the general rules and become almost invisible.

Self-manufacturing

Along the entire length of the ridge, retreating 150 mm from each edge of the roof, a slot is made in the solid base under the soft tiles. Its optimal width is 30 - 50 mm.

  1. From the slot along the slopes, the surface is freed from the soft roof at a distance of 10-15 cm on each side.
  2. A galvanized metal mesh with a mesh size of 2 * 2 mm is stretched along the length of the hole. The width of the strip is 250 mm, it is nailed.
  3. The bars of the counter-lattice 50 * 50 mm are stuffed along the slope parallel to each other, perpendicular to the slot. From below, they press the shingles of soft tiles, from above they are located above the metal mesh.
  4. A continuous crate of OSB boards (width 460 - 500 mm) is installed on the bars. The whole structure adds volume to the skate.
  5. The bottom of the crate is covered with PVC mesh to protect the hole from insects, small birds and foliage.
  6. Lay on the crate, and then the shingles of the soft roof.
  7. The last ridge tile tile is laid, with an overlap of 10 cm, starting from the end. Details are nailed, sealed with mastic.

The ventilation system must comply with building codes - this is required by all manufacturers of roofing materials. Otherwise, air stagnation and moisture accumulation will destroy building materials.