Is it necessary to prime the walls before wallpapering: preparation and types of material. An easy way to prime walls before wallpapering! Do I need to prime the putty before sticking the wallpaper?

When renovating an apartment, we often opt for non-woven wallpaper. They are beautiful, durable and even able to hide small errors in the walls. The gluing process is so simple that sometimes we don't care much about pre-preparation of the base. But this case has its own nuances, which we will discuss in this article.

Why prime the walls

Like any finishing material, the wallpaper must hold firmly and not turn yellow over time. To do this, use acrylic and alkyd compounds, latex compositions and even a solution of wallpaper glue. If the plasterboard walls are not pre-treated with primer, then subsequently the wallpaper will have to be removed along with the putty or the protective layer of plasterboard panels. Therefore, the preparation of the walls must be done.

At normal room temperature, the primer dries quickly. After 2-3 hours after application, you can start sticking wallpaper. All work can be done in one day. Sometimes it becomes necessary to apply a second primer layer, and then the work time increases. Most often, the second layer is needed for porous and loose surfaces.

Applying acrylic primer

This is the most popular composition, and you can find it in any hardware store. Aqueous acrylates are sold in packages of different volumes and can be either in finished form or in the form of a concentrate, which is enough to dilute with plain water immediately before starting work.

Acrylate primers are virtually odorless and you can work without the use of protective agents. If the liquid gets on the skin, then it is enough to wash it off with a stream of water from a tap. Acrylates well clog all small pores on the wall surface and significantly reduce its absorbency. The ability to stick, the so-called adhesion, improves. Yes, and glue consumption is sometimes reduced by up to 50%.

The soil penetrates and strengthens

When choosing an acrylate primer, you can see the designations: firming, deep penetration, universal, adhesive, with antiseptic additives, etc. You can get confused by this variety. But in fact, everything is quite simple: the names speak for themselves. Moreover, manufacturers add antiseptics to all soils so that the walls under the wallpaper are not subjected to raids of mold fungi.

It is necessary to pay attention to the composition called "Adhesive". It has a special mission: it does not penetrate deeply, but forms a strong layer on the surface, which adheres well to the subsequent coating. It is used for priming surfaces that are slightly absorbent or do not absorb anything at all, for example, dense concrete, an area painted with oil paints. A good solution for such questionable areas is the use of an adhesive primer with quartz fine sand. Mix thoroughly, apply on a glossy surface and wait until it dries. An even rough layer appears, similar in appearance to sandpaper. Any wallpaper will firmly adhere to this layer. Such a quartz mixture is especially well suited for heavy embossed vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven fabric.

But the walls are different

Imagine that you bought non-woven wallpaper to be painted in delicate pastel colors. It will require not only the ideal smoothness of the walls, but also the uniformity of the color of the base, since dark spots will be visible under the translucent layer of interlining. The wall should be evenly light throughout its area, and this can be achieved by applying a coloring primer. In order not to waste time looking for the right composition, you can add a little white water-based paint to the universal primer, and the problem of leveling the tone of the base will be solved.

When we work with alkyds

Difficult circumstances of life or the free flight of design fantasy can lead you to the need to stick non-woven wallpaper directly on plywood, chipboard, OSB and other wooden surfaces. And wood is a capricious material and reacts nervously to moisture. This means that it is necessary to prime with compositions based on organic solvents that do not contain water. These are primers based on alkyd resins.

EXPERT ADVICE

The best primer is white, and, of course, this is not a suitable layer for plasters and putty surfaces.

Primer against moisture

Vinyl wallpapers on non-woven fabric serve well in the kitchen, in the bathroom and even on closed unheated loggias. Vinyl on non-woven fabric easily copes with high humidity, but it needs to be helped by priming the surface of the walls with moisture-resistant compounds. This is an aqueous composition of acrylates, which, when dried, forms a film that is much denser than conventional primers. A wall treated with such a composition retains the ability to “breathe”, passing air, but a fairly reliable barrier is created for dripping condensate moisture. The non-woven fabric in such an environment behaves stably, without deforming or peeling off the walls.

Most manufacturers produce moisture-resistant primers in concentrated form. They must be diluted exactly as recommended. It can sometimes be tempting to use the formula undiluted, so to speak, "for strength". But such experiments end with the opposite result: this type of primer creates a rather dense film even when diluted, and the concentrate generally becomes glossy when dried. It is already difficult to stick anything to such a surface.

Can it be primed with glue?

For heavy vinyl wallpaper, this priming method is not very suitable, but for non-woven fabric with a thin layer or without it at all, it is quite acceptable. True, glue will be required one and a half times more than usual. For the primer composition, we dilute the glue in warm water according to the usual scheme, but pour the water itself twice as much. Pour the dry mixture into a thin stream with continuous stirring.

Leave the resulting composition alone for 10 minutes, then mix thoroughly again. We apply liquid glue to the walls with a roller, distributing a thin layer over the surface without smudges. It is important to be patient and start wallpapering only after the primer has completely dried. This usually takes 8 to 12 hours at normal room temperature. With all the simplicity of this method, you need to remember that it is only suitable for smooth and durable walls.

After completing the priming work, you need to once again check the quality of their implementation. To do this, it is enough to run the palm of your hand over the surface. The absence of grains of sand or traces of putty will be an accurate sign that the work has been completed successfully, and you can confidently start gluing non-woven wallpaper.

Hello! Walls pasted over with wallpaper will look perfect if they are properly prepared before finishing. The priming of wall structures is an important operation, which determines how well the wallpaper will adhere to the surface and how long the finish will retain an attractive appearance. Next, consider how to properly prime the walls under the wallpaper.

For work you will need the following:

  • paint bath;
  • roller (foam, velor or pile) on a telescopic handle + brush (for applying the composition in hard-to-reach places), or a spray gun;
  • ready-made primer or dry composition and container + mixer for self-preparation of the composition;
  • personal protective equipment - gloves, headgear.

Primer selection

When choosing a composition for a primer, one should be guided by the material from which the walls are made, the presence of a plaster layer, the risk of damage to the walls by fungus, etc.

A smooth concrete wall can be primed with a mixture of water and PVA (1:10) to get a film on the surface - it will improve adhesion and reduce glue consumption.

The same effect will be given by priming the walls with wallpaper paste diluted in an increased amount of water. But both of these options are not suitable for walls that require surface leveling, adhesive impregnation of the plaster layer, etc.

Manufacturers offer a wide range of primers with different properties:

  • acrylic primer. Quick-drying, suitable for all bases except metal (provokes corrosion).
  • Alkyd primer. Recommended for wooden walls, not for plasterboard constructions and plastered surfaces.
  • Glyptal soil. Designed for metal structures. Moisture and heat resistant, suitable for the kitchen, can be used for walls made of brick, concrete.
  • latex primer. Due to the milky shade, it is able to mask spots. Suitable for various bases.

Wall priming instructions

At the stage of preparing the base, it is required to remove the old coating from the walls, to inspect the surfaces in order to identify cracks and other defects that need to be eliminated.

It is advisable to tap the plaster layer to make sure that it does not peel off from the base - otherwise the walls will have to be re-plastered.

Cracks should be expanded, primed and sealed with putty or a special compound, bumps should be cleaned, cavities should be puttied. A thin layer of putty on the entire wall allows you to perfectly level the surface. The primer is started after the putty has completely dried.

Carefully read the instructions for use of the selected primer.

Prepare composition according to manufacturer's instructions. It is enough to shake up the finished primer in buckets, the powder is diluted in water using a hand mixer or a mixer nozzle on a drill.

Be sure to use gloves to avoid getting the product on your skin. A headdress is also recommended, under which you can remove hair - the primer is highly adhesive and it is quite difficult to wash it off the hair. The floor is covered with a film or paper.

It is fastest and most convenient to apply a primer on the walls under the wallpaper using a sprayer - the liquid composition will lie in an even layer over the entire surface, including hard-to-reach corners.

If there is no spray gun, the prepared primer is poured into a paint bath to wet the roller. It is easier to work with a roller on large surfaces - it will take much longer to work with a brush. In this case, the brush is used to apply the primer composition in the corners and at the joints. Apply the composition starting from the top, from the ceiling, and moving towards the center, and then down.

The walls are primed in two layers with intermediate drying.

Drying time depends on the characteristics of the composition and can be from 1 to 24 hours - the information is indicated by the manufacturer on the package.

After waiting the necessary time after drying the second layer, it is necessary to check whether the wall has dried out qualitatively. If you start gluing wallpaper on structures that have retained moisture inside, after a while they will peel off.

Advice: To check for residual moisture, a square of plastic film is glued to the wall using adhesive tape and monitoring the tightness of the joints. After a few hours, they check - if condensation is observed on the inside, the wall is not ready yet and the check should be repeated.

Do I need to prime the walls under the wallpaper

The application of a special composition on concrete, plastered, wooden, plasterboard structures allows:

  • fasten particles of the material of the upper layer, prevent the formation of cracks, otherwise the wallpaper will quickly begin to peel off on plastered or puttied walls;
  • smooth out irregularities on the painted walls due to the formation of a protective film - traces of paint streaks, strokes, adhering brush hairs, etc.;
  • ensure a high-quality fit of heavy wallpaper (non-woven, vinyl);
  • bind dust particles - they impair the adhesion of the adhesive composition to the surface of the walls;
  • mask the spots, ensuring a uniform tone of the base - this is true for thin and light wallpapers;
  • protect the base from damage by a fungus, due to which the wallpaper becomes covered with dark spots (a primer with antiseptic additives is recommended for rooms with high humidity, with damp corners);
  • reduce the consumption of wallpaper glue during finishing work.

Results

Do-it-yourself wall priming for wallpaper is a fairly simple operation. It is important to choose the right soil and dry the walls after processing. Ideally, primer and wallpaper paste are used from the same manufacturer to ensure full material compatibility.

Priming walls before wallpapering- this is the last stage of preparing their surface for installation. Before starting priming, the old coating must be removed from the walls, cleaned, plastered and puttied.

After the last layer of putty or plaster has dried, you can start priming.

What is a primer for, what are the types and features of working with it

The primer of the walls before wallpapering is needed in order to:

  • get rid of bumps before applying wallpaper;
  • fasten small particles of material on the walls, make their surface homogeneous;
  • increase the adhesion of wallpaper to the wall;
  • protect walls from absorbing excess moisture from adhesives;
  • reduce glue consumption, which means saving money; the surface of the walls can absorb glue very strongly, then you will have to apply the adhesive composition several times;
  • even out the color of the walls, this is especially necessary when gluing thin and non-woven wallpaper; the primer hides the stains and smudges on the wall, and its white color ensures that the wallpaper does not acquire an unwanted gray or yellow tint;
  • ensure uniform absorption of the adhesive; if on different parts of the wall the glue will be absorbed with different intensity, then there is a risk that in some places the wallpaper will not stick;
  • preserve the ability of the walls to "breathe", prevent the accumulation of moisture and the appearance of mold.

For priming walls before wallpapering, special compounds are produced. In some cases, glue can be used to prime the surface, if it is written on the package. In other cases, wallpaper glue does not replace the primer.

Types of primer for wallpaper:

There are also perchlorovinyl primers, but they are used for outdoor work on metal and concrete.

Most often, an acrylic primer is used under the wallpaper. It is safe for health, easy to use, deeply impregnates the surface of the walls, suitable for different materials, dries faster than all other types of primers for interior work.

  • it is cheaper to use a dry primer rather than a ready-made mixture;
  • it is convenient to dilute the powder in a bucket;
  • prepare the primer according to the instructions on the package;
  • the resulting primer must be homogeneous;
  • working with a primer, it is desirable to apply the same layer to the entire surface of the wall;
  • it is most convenient to work with a wide brush or roller, in corners and niches you can use
    small brush;
  • for high-quality preparation of walls, they must be primed twice;
  • the second coat of primer is applied when the first is dry;
  • when working with a primer, you should protect your hands, eyes and body with special clothing.

High-quality preparation of the walls ensures their strength, reliable gluing of wallpaper, the absence of bubbles and bumps that can spoil the look of the new coating and lead to the need for its quick replacement.

Priming the walls before wallpapering will save a lot of time and money, ensure a quality bond and a perfect look of the wallpaper.

One of the most popular types of interior decoration today is painting. But no matter what type of coating was chosen, the base before applying it needs a primer - surface treatment with a special compound.

Usually, without this process, the service life of the repair is reduced, stains, mold can appear, and the paint peels off.

What does priming give

The main task of the process is to prepare the walls before carrying out other finishing works (plastering, painting, wallpapering, varnishing, etc.). The soil has all the necessary properties to remove existing flaws and prevent future ones.

Most importantly, the mixture is able to improve surface adhesion. It strengthens the base, helps the coating composition (paint, varnish, etc.) to adhere to it.

Prevents the beginning of the shedding of the surface, which cannot be stopped by the coating. Strengthens the base and prevents the appearance of microcracks.

In a primed wall, the absorption property decreases. This is justified for porous surfaces, those that have already been plastered or puttied.

Thus, the wall will not be able to absorb a lot of coating, while there will be savings due to the fact that most of it will remain on the surface.

Priming walls before wallpapering

After the primer, it is enough to apply one or two coats of coating. This also saves financial costs.

Over time, various spots may appear through the coating. Especially if its layer is applied unevenly. The primer helps prevent this by creating a uniform protective film layer on the wall.

It is very important that after applying the primer, the coating will lie evenly.

The composition of the mixture protects against moisture, i.e. from the penetration of moisture inside, preventing destruction. This applies to both external and internal surfaces.

The appearance of mold also helps prevent priming. And special compositions not only prevent, but also destroy the process that has already begun.

It is clear that the preparation of the wall for painting will give an excellent result, which will be noticeable not only after the completion of all finishing work, but also after a while.

Surface preparation

Before applying the solution, the surface should be carefully treated. As a rule, dust and dirt are removed, old wallpaper and paint are torn off, pieces of falling plaster are peeled off. Mold foci are eliminated. It is best if the wall is treated with a special solution.

Grease stains must be processed and erased, otherwise they may show through over time.

All roughness, cracks are cemented, puttied and cleaned.

The exterior or interior substrate must undergo a drying process for several hours or even days before priming.

Required tool:

  • roller;
  • Wide and small brushes;
  • Metal brush;
  • Sandpaper;
  • Spray;
  • Disc brushes for drill;
  • spatulas;
  • container for mixing;
  • Ladder;
  • Work gloves;
  • Protective mask.

Primer for painting

The soil is applied depending on the processed surface.

Most often, the manufacturer produces a concentrated mixture that must be diluted in certain proportions.

The mixtures produced can be divided into two main categories: adhesive - improving the adhesion of paint to the base, strengthening - to strengthen loose (porous) surfaces.

There is a so-called universal mixture, which combines all the necessary qualities in any climatic conditions. But it is also necessary to take into account the type of coating that will subsequently cover the surface.

All soils are based on water or organic solvents.

So, you can select some types of soil for painting:

  • Strengthening impregnations (acrylic water-dispersion) with additives. The main purpose is interior work for overlaying on cement-lime surfaces, drywall and gypsum plaster. It is considered universal, it forms a moisture-proof, but vapor-permeable film;
  • Priming acrylic varnishes are designed for deep penetration. Creates a water-repellent base;
  • Primer paints (acrylic and latex) are used as a basis for acrylic and water-based coatings. Can be applied internally and externally;
  • Solvent-based mixture for outdoor and indoor use designed to strengthen the surface and waterproof. It is deeply absorbed and can be applied to plaster, previously painted and asbestos-cement walls;
  • Silicate primers are best used externally for coating concrete, plastered walls, silicate bricks.

    They are used before applying the silicate coating. They are perfectly absorbed, sealing microcracks;

  • Two-component epoxy paints are applied internally to concrete walls. Their basis is water.

Thus, the purpose of a reinforcing primer is to create a vapor-permeable film that does not peel off, and the task of an adhesive mixture is deep penetration without creating a film.

Application technology

The primer is kneaded according to the instructions and the indicated proportions, while it is very thoroughly mixed.

Mixtures are mainly applied to plaster, either on bare substrates (external and internal) or drywall with a roller, brushes or spray gun.

Usually it is applied in two layers. The second layer must be applied after the first has dried for several hours. The optimal temperature for performing work is the range from +5 to +20 ° C with humidity up to 75%.

The mixture is distributed with a roller or brushes thoroughly and evenly, without the formation of puddles.

If necessary, a puttying step should be carried out between the layers of the primer. This is the case if the walls have a lot of cracks and bumps.

Before applying the next layer (putty or primer), it is important to strictly observe the drying of the previous one. If for the soil this period is 2-24 hours, then for putty 2-4 weeks.

A day after the application of the last layer of soil, a decorative coating can be applied.

  • Drywall can be primed in one layer and without putty;
  • A well-absorbing soil mixture is applied in 2-3 layers;
  • The penetrating primer does not have to be applied to the state of its gloss;
  • Primer based on PVA glue does not fulfill its functions;
  • A dirty mark on the finger after running along the wall indicates that it should be primed;
  • It is impossible to prime a facade that is too hot by the sun;
  • Soil mixtures from different manufacturers should not be mixed.

Wallpapering today is a real art, because today we have many varieties of this finishing material to choose from. Modern wallpapers are able to withstand a very long test of time - 10 or even 15 years. If you are making repairs for many years, priming the walls before wallpapering will be mandatory.

Most people are not in a hurry to prime the walls for wallpapering - it seems strange to spend money on primers if the glue manufacturers promise almost a 100% guarantee of high-quality wall pasting. Indeed, not in all cases, the application of a primer layer can be considered a great necessity.

  • You can do without applying the primer if the repair is temporary, or the wallpaper is not designed for a long service life.
  • You should not spend money on primer if you will be gluing light paper finishes. It must be understood that even the use of soil does not guarantee an ideal result.

The primer of the walls under the wallpaper increases the adhesion of materials, that is, the wallpaper will stick better to the base. Besides, primer compositions fill small pores, due to which the consumption of wallpaper glue is significantly reduced. In addition, most modern primers come with the addition of antiseptics, that is, they prevent the appearance of fungus under the wallpaper. However, if the technology of the gluing itself is violated, then the wallpaper can just as well lag behind the walls, as without the use of additional compositions.

Definitely apply a primer when gluing heavy wallpaper -. In this case, the primer performs two tasks - it strengthens the base and provides better adhesion. From an economic point of view, your repair costs will practically not increase - having spent on the purchase of soil, you will save on the consumption of wallpaper glue. By the way, buy glue in small packages in specialized hardware stores and do not dilute all at once. If you have a check, you are free to return the remaining unopened packs in exchange for your money.

Before sticking wallpaper, the walls must be puttied - thanks to this you will get a perfectly flat and monolithic surface. By the way, before puttying it is also recommended to apply a primer to the walls, which will increase the adhesion of materials and prevent cracking and peeling of the putty composition. Plasterboard constructions should also be putty. Please note that if you do not follow this procedure, then the wallpaper that will be pasted directly onto the sheets will stick tightly.

It will be simply impossible to tear off the wallpaper from drywall during the next repair without damaging the material. Therefore, he is putty. Putty gives the surface a solid white color, which means you can use even thin wallpaper through which gray concrete would show through. If the differences on the surface to be treated do not exceed 1–2 mm, then one thin layer of putty can be dispensed with.

If there are more differences, two layers will have to be applied - base and finish. Putty for the base layer is cheaper, but has a larger particle fraction, so it is not suitable for finishing. With even walls with small differences, even a beginner who has never held a spatula in his hands can do all the work. Moreover, our site contains all the knowledge and advice on how to do repairs with your own hands.

There is no shortage of ready-made primers, and it is not expected, although the grandmother's "recipes" for repairs are still alive among the people. Consider some of the most popular solutions for choosing a primer for wallpaper. Perhaps the most ancient recipe for a folk primer that has survived to this day is the use of PVA. Some prefer this method, considering others to be nothing more than a marketing move by manufacturers, others simply save money.

If the repair is very budgetary or temporary, glue can really help out. In this case, to prepare the primer composition, PVA glue is diluted in ordinary water - from 7 to 10 liters of liquid are added to 1 part of the glue. An option that can be considered an average between folk and professional is the use of wallpaper glue well diluted with water for priming walls. However, not every composition that is used for wallpapering can be used for these purposes.

If there are no instructions on the package regarding the proportions of water and glue for creating soil, then the composition is unsuitable for this. The use of such a primer may have a positive effect, but professional primers would have coped with this task much better. The use of an acrylic primer is the best option. It adheres well to plaster, putty and concrete.

Under the wallpaper, which will be glued to a leveled base, the most common primer is suitable, but if the surface has roughness and large pores, then it is better to use a deep penetration primer.

In order for the result to meet all your expectations, buy formulations only from trusted manufacturers. These include, for example, primers Knauf, Prospectors, IVSIL. If you have laid eyes on the primer from a little-known company, be sure to read the composition - it is quite possible that under the guise of "primer for wallpaper" they are trying to squeeze diluted PVA into you. The quality materials are based on a mixture of acrylic polymers. On the market you can find both ready-to-use formulations and dry ones. The latter are cheaper, but will take more of your time. Cooking them is not difficult - detailed instructions are always attached.

In addition to the primer itself, do not forget to buy a paint roller with a fur coat made of foam rubber, pile or velor, a bath and a brush for applying the composition in hard-to-reach places. You will also need a telescopic handle for the roller - this is more convenient than using a stepladder. The consumption of acrylic primer, depending on the porosity of the walls, is about 100–200 ml per 1 sq.m. It takes only a few hours to dry the layer, after which you can immediately start wallpapering.

Before that, many craftsmen check the moisture content of the plaster or putty itself. This is done in a very simple way - a square with sides of 10–15 cm is cut out of a small piece of plastic film and attached to the wall with adhesive tape. It is important that air does not penetrate under the film. It is enough to leave this simple device for 10-12 hours to see the result - if moisture has accumulated under the film, it means that the walls have not yet dried completely. If it is dry under it, then you can safely start gluing.

Before gluing wallpaper on the walls, be sure to prime the surface. The process of applying paint or coating will become easier if the priming of the walls before wallpapering is carried out in accordance with all the rules. Do not seek advice from friends and neighbors, because each case is unique. Taking into account the existing features of the wall and the functional purpose of the room will help to avoid many common mistakes. It is worth taking into account the type of material that is planned to be placed on the wall.

Rhetorical question: do I need to prime the walls before wallpapering

You can often hear even from the lips of qualified builders that the primer for the walls is not as important as the putty. There is some common sense in this, but first it is worth delving into the details.

It is possible to refuse a primer only if construction and installation work is planned in a new house, where there are no traces of marriage. This happens extremely rarely, so you still need to prime the wall.

In addition, the volume and type of materials used is determined by the functional component. Simply put, for a basement or warehouse, a budget version of the mixture, which has not so attractive characteristics, is suitable.

Generally speaking, the walls are primed before gluing or painting for several reasons:

  • After applying the solution, the wall will become even and dry, which will increase the adhesion between the wallpaper and the surface;
  • No traces of cracking of the lower layer;
  • Properly selected primer will not allow moisture to soak into the wall structure;
  • Properly selected building mixture allows the wall to "breathe", which eliminates the possibility of mold;
  • The bearing capacity of the outer part of the wall is enhanced;
  • The warranty period of operation of wall-paper increases.

Priming the walls before wallpapering is a mandatory process in the structure of any age. Improved load-bearing capacity, increased grip, reduced mold growth are just a few of the benefits that will become apparent after surface treatment.

Preparatory stage: how to prime the walls before wallpapering

To begin with, it is worth examining the planned scope of work. The presence of old paint, nails, wallpaper and other debris is simply not acceptable. You need to carefully remove all this and only then begin work. The next step is to properly putty the surface.

It is important to remember that the wall should dry for at least 15-16 hours. If all of the above steps are completed, then you can pick up a primer.

Before proceeding with the primer, you need to thoroughly clean the wall surface from old wallpaper or paint.

At the first stage, you need to dissolve a sufficient amount of impregnation in a bucket of water. A small strip is wetted with its contents, on top of which a primer is applied.

The further course of action is as follows:

  • Remove traces of dust with an aqueous solution;
  • After applying the first layer of primer, the surface dries for at least 5 hours;
  • If everything is done correctly, then the wall will not become a magnet for dirt, not to mention the fact that its resistance to external physical influences will improve.

Greater care must be taken when working with a surface on which there have been several layers of wallpaper and paint. First, all this must be removed with a metal spatula and a solution of water. If we talk in general about the direct application of a primer to the wall, then the procedure is performed only after the removal of traces of previous contamination.

Non-standard situations or how long the primer dries before wallpapering

Separate walls are not going to surrender without a fight, so in this case it is imperative to use heavy artillery. This list includes a chemically active solution, which can be found in a hardware store. It is used to remove hard-to-remove traces of paint and old wallpaper. Based on the information on the packaging, it is not difficult to independently determine which dosage to choose.

It is bred in a bucket of warm water, after which it is necessary to carefully treat the wall with a slightly moistened sponge.

After that, you need to let the surface dry for 30-35 minutes. This time is enough to qualitatively prime the wall.

The primer can dry in different ways, so this should be taken into account when priming the walls.

In addition, it is important to remember a number of important nuances:

  • Wetted traces of old wallpaper and paint should be removed with a sharp spatula;
  • To remove the adhesive, a special liquid should be used - bleach, which can be purchased at a store for construction and repair;
  • If you plan to treat the wall in the kitchen or bathroom, where moisture traditionally accumulates, you need to make sure that there are no traces of mold;
  • In the event that they were found, it is necessary to treat the surface with a special solution, otherwise the mold existing in the corner will appear on the layer of new wallpaper.

It is far from always that a person spends as much time on processing a wall as it was originally planned. Mold marks, hard-to-remove wallpaper or paint residue - all this requires increased attention. In no case should you leave even a small amount of the previous layer on the wall, otherwise you will not be able to use new wallpapers for more than 1 year.

The final stage: how the walls are primed before wallpapering

Once all unwanted traces have been removed, the wall surface should be re-examined. Only after that you can start working. In order for the priming to pass quickly, you need to decide in advance on the issue of the need for insulation. If the room is not warm enough and it is not planned to install additional radiators, then drywall or plywood can be used.

In order to quickly and efficiently prime the walls, you should prepare materials and tools for work in advance.

Among other things, you can repair the existing traces of deformation with foam. This will not affect the cost of the work, while allowing better laying of the putty.

Experienced builders have developed some recommendations to simplify the task for beginners:

  • Before you start priming the walls, you need to seal the switches and sockets with masking tape, otherwise they will be damaged during operation;
  • Dilution of the building mixture is allowed only in a deep bucket;
  • Everything is stirred for 5-7 minutes until a homogeneous consistency is formed;
  • A construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle is used for this;
  • It is recommended to process each section of the wall with a wide soft brush;
  • The layer should be smeared so that it evenly lays down;
  • Before applying the second layer, as mentioned earlier, it is necessary to allow the surface to dry thoroughly.

Priming walls before wallpapering (video)

Consistency and methodicalness are the key to success at the stage of priming the walls. The solution is always diluted in a deep bucket until a homogeneous mixture is formed. When applying it to the surface of the wall, you need to make sure that there are no irregularities. Do not forget that it is imperative to protect the floor and surrounding objects from accidental contact with the building mixture, which will be extremely difficult to wash.

So that everything goes smoothly during the repair, and soon after the repair, mold does not appear under the surface of the paper sheets, priming is carried out. How to properly prime the walls before wallpapering - videos, photos and expert advice, all this is in our article.

Priming educational program

Why prime?

  • Firstly, the soil allows you to create a reliable foundation for.
  • Secondly, it fastens the top layer of plaster, prevents its destruction and cracking, which, in turn, affects the service life of the coating.
  • Of course, do not forget about protection against pests and mold. Many formulations contain an antiseptic that prevents various pests from developing under the wallpaper layer.

When painting a wall, the primer saves materials, reducing consumption by several times..

And yet, do you need to prime the walls before wallpapering? Of course, this procedure allows you to achieve a high-quality result.

Before applying the composition, thoroughly clean the surface of the walls or ceiling, remove a layer of old paint, repair cracks in the plaster.

Primer types

Solaks acrylic compound

Priming with conventional glue is being replaced by special formulations designed to treat various types of surfaces.

The need to use one or another type of composition is determined by the condition of the wall, as well as the conditions in the room (high temperature or high humidity).

Special primers are not used for facial finishing, but failure to use them can lead to the fragility of the coating and overspending of covering materials.

Today, there are several types of compositions on the building materials market, which are divided into groups based on a binder and can be used indoors:

  • Acrylic.
    Can be used on almost any surface (plaster, concrete, cement, brick, wood, plywood). They do not have a specific smell and dry within 5 hours. Most often they are used for.
  • Alkyd.
    Best suited for wood surfaces. When the material comes into contact with the wood structure, a surface is formed that is susceptible to most finishing coatings.
    Drying time - up to 15 hours. Convenient for use in a country house with wooden walls.
    There are several varieties of alkyd compounds: based on zinc phosphate (suitable for alkyd paints), based on zinc chromate, which has almost the same properties, but has a wider range of applications (not recommended for use on gypsum and plaster).

  • Glyphthalic.
    Are intended for processing of metal and wooden surfaces. Suddenly you want to do in the garage? Can only be used in rooms with low humidity. Drying time - days.
  • Perchlorovinyl.
    They can be used for coating metal surfaces, as well as for concrete and brick covered with plaster.
    They are used mainly for external work, they easily tolerate low temperatures. Dry in one hour (at a temperature of +20 °C).

Priming