Painted bricks on the wall. We draw brickwork. Add architectural elements to the wall painting

October 28, 2016 Sergey Somov

In this article, we will look at wall painting in stages. We will make a window with stucco molding and a patterned lattice. Well, let's break it.

How to draw bricks?

We outline a window on our wall.

At this stage, we need two pencils and a rope. Tie pencils to both ends of the rope, one of which we put in the center of the future window, and the second we draw a circle. You should get something like the following.
We paint over our drawing in a similar way:

and wait for it to dry.
Now we need our drawing skills. On the dried paint, with a pencil, we outline an ornament.
Well, then we will prepare two colors: one is lighter, the other is darker. And paint our ornament in such a way that we get the effect of gypsum stucco.

Let's add stucco decoration on the sides of the window.

We will make the side elements using the same technology as everything else. Draw, tape and paint.
The only thing we will need to draw a bas-relief. To do this, we will use a stencil, which we will prepare in advance. Since the elements to the left and right of the window will be symmetrical, we need one stencil with which we will work. How to transfer a stencil drawing to the wall I described in the article Do-it-yourself Pop Art Portrait. All this is done using the same technology.

Next, we prescribe the ornament of the bas-relief, and give it materiality with the help of a brush and paints.

Let's make our architectural elements more realistic with their drop shadows. We will limit the location of the shadows with masking tape. And paint over with a brush using dark paint.

We will do the same with all other elements - add shadows.

We draw the sky in the window.

As before, we cover the area with masking tape.
Next, with a roller from top to bottom, we begin to paint the future sky.
We must have three colors prepared in advance. Dark, light and lightest. After all, the sky to the horizon has a stretch from dark to light. We will try to convey it.
We take the next color lighter, paint it over, and wipe the junction of the colors with a sponge so that the transitions are soft.
Of course, we will outline the clouds. We will do it with a roller.
Then soften everything with a lip. After all, everything in nature is very soft!
Here's what we ended up with:
Let's add some zest to our wall painting.

Grid imitation. Wall painting on tracing paper.

Let's add architectural elements to the wall painting.

Using the same technology, we will draw protruding parts from the wall

“What does it cost us to build a house? Let's draw - we will live!
(Author unknown)

Still, repairs are primarily not a domestic, creative matter)) I kept wondering - well, how can people make a “capital” throughout an apartment in three months? her decision is really under force in such a short time. However, as soon as even a slight smack of creativity and romanticism is mixed into the repair process, that's it - write it down!))
It was only in my third year (after decorating the room in a severely classical style, and the kitchen in the style of “Russified Provence”) that I finally decided what kind of hallway I want to see. Loft-not-loft, but here's the brickwork - an unconditional yes!
I figured, calculated what it would “pour out” of laying out part of the walls with tiles under the brick ... and shed a tear.
And then I took spatulas and paints, and it went-oh-axis!)

***

The first step is to carefully measure the entire wall (the wall was previously puttied and primed). I measured according to the template:

The template was “stolen” from this beautiful video tutorial, but the system for grading the wall from it was not useful to me.
Simply, using a template and applying it to the right places, I traced it with a pencil, made horizontal and vertical stripes haphazardly - just as I please.

After the entire wall was lined in this way, the future “seams” between the bricks were sealed with adhesive tape.
First, I glued all the horizontal seams. Then, taking a step "through one" to keep the pattern of brickwork, vertical.

If you use a tape with even edges (for example, electrical tape) when gluing, then the seams between the future bricks will be even and will turn out.
Since in my case there was an idea to imitate the old masonry, I used as crookedly torn strips of paper tape as possible for gluing. Ripped with hands. I just casually tore off the necessary stripes and that's it.

Taping the seams is the most tedious and nasty stage :)

After all the seams were sealed, proceeded to finish.
For these purposes, I used the Tex texture paint (in the Ob, a five-liter bucket costs about 450 rubles). Previously, in the Ob, it was chlorinated as close as possible to a brick color.
Already at home, before starting work on a decorated wall, I experimented in a bathroom that had not yet been renovated. In small volumes of chlorinated texture paint, I added different colorants, paints and impurities in different proportions. The task was to "feel" the required color of the old brick. Well, exercise, of course :)

The results of these experiments were evaluated only the next day - after the experimental area was completely dry and the “brick” became what it would eventually be on the wall being decorated. After all, it is no secret that any paint changes color after drying, becoming lighter by a tone, or even by several. I don't like these "surprises".
As a result, I settled on the following combination: 5-6 incomplete spatulas of chlorinated texture paint + 4-5 full tablespoons of gray cement (in Ob - 50 rubles).

I did not add any colors to this composition. Dullness, attrition, volume, pebbles, blotches, some even mossy, you can say, the composition was given by poorly mixed cement.
After I decided on the composition and color of the coating, I proceeded to the finishing itself. With a small spatula, we apply the composition to the wall in uneven, bumpy layers - right along the seams sealed with paper tape.

After the composition is applied, but the coating is still wet (!!!), carefully pick up the edge of the adhesive tape and pull it. He comes off the wall, forming a pattern that imitates the seams of masonry. And due to the fact that my tape was torn unevenly, the pattern of the seams also came out crooked. What was required. As if this wall had been shrinking for centuries, and the “bricks” had been weathered and destroyed for hundreds of years.

I worked in sections - personally it seemed to me easier.

Everything: the whole wall is covered, all the adhesive tape is torn off. The “bricks”, due to the texture of the paint and the addition of cement, came out bumpy and pimply. Almost like the real ones!

I left my art to dry for an indefinite time - I needed time to decide on the decoration of the "bricks" and give them a complete resemblance to the masonry system.
Having studied a huge amount, I came to two conclusions:

In old masonry bricks are never the same color. Some are necessarily darker, others are lighter. Some - almost black, as if covered with soot, others - as if burnt out in the sun.

Old masonry never without efflorescence.

Both I had to achieve with the help of paints and brushes.
The problem from the first point was solved quite simply. Taking a juicy brick-colored paint as a basis, I mixed additives into it with varying intensity.
To give a lighter tone - white color (in "Ob" - about 100 rubles)
To make it dark, I found artistic bitumen in my own stash (its intended use did not impress me, and therefore it has been gathering dust in a box for almost a year).

With a wide dry brush and sponge, I selectively tinted either lighter or darker tones according to the main color of the texture paint.

And here's what happened:

First, it's a bit bright. Secondly, this brightness should have been muffled by efflorescence, that is, the solution of the problem from point two.
While I was solving the question in my head - how to competently make efflorescence so that they are as similar as possible to natural ones, with my hands, I took up “sealing”.
It was decided to smear the "seams" with a texture composition. To do this, I simply thinly diluted the remains of cement (to the state of liquid sour cream) and added a little white color to it.

Carefully, so as not to cover up the “bricks”, but at the same time blurting out so that the layers between the “masonry” also looked old, she painted the “seams” with a hard brush.

This is what the wall looked like at the end of this stage:

And meanwhile, with efflorescence, a real plug came out ... How to make them? Dry brush? Or a sponge? White paint, just to highlight the structure? I tried everything (on the same experimental wall in the bathtub), and I didn’t like anything!
But now I know for 100%: it is IMPOSSIBLE to imitate efflorescence with a dry brush and paint, it looks miserable !!!
Thanks to Andrey Volkov from Ufa - he gave the most valuable advice: "the best efflorescence on the masonry will come from water + add white tile grout to it."
So, in fact, I did. In a jar of water, she literally diluted a little bit of grout, loosened it all up, and applied horizontal watery stains with a wide brush.

During the night, the water drops evaporated, leaving small streaks of grout that perfectly imitate real efflorescence.
It worked out great! Old, dirty :) But what can you do: the wall has survived the century!))

After the artwork was completed, the entire "masonry" was varnished. To not get dusty. I used acrylic varnish, applied with a regular sponge.

PS Unfortunately, the camera (no matter how hard I tried) could not convey the true color.
I shot with a flash - the “bricks” are too red, some of them turn out. Although in reality they are not so bright at all. Gray cement and efflorescence perfectly muted the colors.
I shot it without a flash - everything was gray-gray ... But my wall turned out to be lively, iridescent.

pps I would like to convey my heartfelt greetings to all the chauvinists from the Obi. Belaya Dacha”, where I was “lucky” to shop this time… I have never met the worst attitude towards myself from male consultants! Even 15 years ago at the dawn of his automotive life in auto parts stores. Then, of course, the sellers of car lotions looked at women as fools and stupid blondes, but at least they laughed not in the face and pretended to be trying to understand what their aunt needed. I can note with satisfaction that today in most auto shops and services, consultants treat ladies with unfeigned patience and respect. Really rose above themselves.
Apparently all the chauvinists went over to "Obi"))) Not only that, the consultants from the paint department did not consider it necessary to answer more than one of my questions regarding the same paint "Tex" (such as - "what do you care, this is only for those who understands!”), so they also managed to discuss my modest person among themselves without even stepping aside - why are these women climbing with their idiotic questions? still don't understand shit! which of the aunts is the master?)) ha ha ha!
It's disgusting.

A brick wall is relevant among various interior styles, but when it is unrealistic to build it, you can imitate in some way. In this article we will analyze how you can draw a brick wall without resorting to the services of artists. Three methods will be presented, which will require simple materials, a little patience and accuracy.

What does it look like

Painting a wall like a brick is perhaps the cheapest way to imitate it. Plus, it's practical. If the wallpaper can get dirty, pets can ruin it, then this will not happen with painting. Unlike wallpaper, the painting does not have to be peeled off if you get tired of it - you can simply repaint the wall.

The painted brickwork, of course, does not look as impressive as the original, but it will also suit any design solution. A good example of this is in the photo below.

How to draw a brick wall

Before you start painting the wall, you need to make sure that the wall is even and dry. It will be most convenient to draw on white putty or plaster. If the wall is crooked or there are remnants of the old wallpaper on it, they should be completely removed, and the irregularities should be covered with putty. Only the field of these actions can begin work.

Below are three ways to simulate a brick wall by painting, each of which will require slightly different tools and materials. Just in case, prepare:

Roller
Wide brush
Narrow brush (for detailed rendering of the contours of bricks and masonry joints)
Toothbrush (to create fine splashes and texture)
masking tape
Foam rubber

Method 1: drawing each brick

If the wall is not initially white - apply a layer of white acrylic paint, and on top of it the background of future bricks, the color of your choice. He will look through between the "bricks".

When the background coating dries, markings are made on the wall with chalk, from floor to ceiling. If you want a more natural “brick”, it’s better to mark without using a ruler, while marking horizontal lines is noticeable for yourself so that at the end it doesn’t turn out that the bricks suddenly “slid” up or down.
Draw each planned brick separately with a thin and thick brush. To obtain a rich brick color, you can mix natural sienna with red, light and white ocher.
In order for each brick to become more embossed, complement them with shadows. It is better to do this with a thin brush for drawing and a mixture of umber, white, black color.

Advice: it is more convenient to start marking and drawing bricks from the bottom row to the top, and not vice versa.

Method 2: stencil from adhesive tape

This method significantly reduces the painting time, unlike the first method, though it will not look so natural, but more accurately. However, with the help of decorating and giving texture to the pattern, the effect of realism can be brought closer to the maximum.

On a prepared and dried background, it is necessary to make a stencil with narrow masking tape - these will be masonry seams. The size of the bricks can vary depending on your preferences. If at this stage you are not lazy and glue the molar tape evenly, then it will take 3 hours at worst, depending on the size of the wall.

Next, paint the entire wall in brick color with a roller, but you can use an airbrush. Let the paint dry thoroughly, then you can remove the tape.
In order not to get confused during marking, you can divide each brick in half - this is already a masonry vertical seam for bricks a level higher, and mark the brick itself with a cross using a simple pencil.
As a result, you will get a neat imitation of brickwork.

Method 3: using foam rubber

It is advisable to take several pieces of foam rubber in case the first one hardens strongly from the paint. The shape and size should be like that of a real brick, that is, a rectangular shape, approximately 25 cm wide and 6.5 cm high.

Dip a foam rubber stamp into a pre-prepared tray with paint. Do not forget to remove excess paint from the stamp, they can ruin the whole composition.
Then attach the foam rubber to the wall, thereby leaving an imprint.
Thus, leave stamps in the form of bricks throughout the desired section of the wall. Try to leave the same gap between the bricks.

Highlighting volume and texture

This is perhaps the most important part of the finish - without this stage, the work done will not look as natural and natural as possible. In addition, the above methods for decorating bricks are suitable for all three methods of simulating masonry.

For greater realism, the painted brickwork needs to add additional shades. To give the appearance of volume, the upper face can be brightened, and the lower one, on the contrary, can be darkened.
To give the wall a little “negligence”, you can add various strokes and strokes with a sponge, thereby creating the effect of antiquity.
In order for the pattern of masonry joints to look as if "deeper", it should be brought with a thin brush, a shade slightly darker than the main one.
When you apply a drawing, misses in the form of random lines and extra spots are quite possible. You will need to remove them immediately, using ordinary water, because acrylic paint dries very quickly.

Even without any artistic skills, you will be able to paint the wall like a brick, the main thing is not to make gross mistakes.

We hope that the article was useful to you. Leave your questions and feedback in the comments below.

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brick drawing technology

The whole work process is simple in terms of execution, it takes a little time, money and effort. Let's break it down into successive steps:

Step 1. Prepare materials

To paint a wall, the length of which is 50 m, we take the following materials:

Choose the right color for the brick wall

10 tubes of acrylic paint in the following shades: carbon black, red and light ocher, umber, natural and burnt sienna, brown mars and titanium white, the latter - more;

Water tank;

Sponges of different sizes;

Used toothbrush;

Disposable tableware for mixing acrylic paints;

Chalk for drawing;

We cover the floor, baseboards with newspapers, so they will remain clean after our creative work. We mark the borders of the future brick wall with chalk, along which we then stick adhesive tape.

Painted brickwork option

We paint over the entire area with white paint, after which we apply a background on it with a large sponge - a shade of cement mortar. This gray color will simulate the gaps between the bricks.

Step 3: Draw and Color the Bricks

After the background dries, we start drawing the bricks with chalk. We start drawing from the bottom, moving up, trying to keep the horizontal row even, but do not take the rulers - it will turn out more naturally.

First, we will paint in brick color: we mix sienna, light and red ocher, with a small addition of white. We take a wide brush and randomly paint some bricks, immediately wetting the paint with a sponge.

The next part of the bricks will be painted with a different shade: add brown mars and a little water to the previous mixture of colors. And we get the last color by mixing the main palette with burnt sienna and whitewash.

Step 4. Giving texture to the drawing

Having decorated all the bricks, dilute the whitewash with water, then add a little ocher, and shade the surface with a swab. Then we do this: we lower the toothbrush into sienna and splash it onto the wall, creating a texture.

But that is not all. An artificial brick wall should look natural, keep the maximum resemblance to the natural one. To do this, you need to give it relief, volume. We take a small brush and outline the right and bottom side of each brick with paint, slightly shading. Color we use white with black umber. Do not forget that the relief must be in the same direction, based on the incident light rays.

Step 5. Finishing touch

At the top of the wall we place a wooden panel or depict a stone border.

That's it, the brick wall is up! We remove newspapers, arrange furniture and invite friends to evaluate our work. Even if you do not have the skills of an artist, you can decorate the wall in the form of brickwork if you decide to freshen up the renovation with your own hands.

http://remontick.ru

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Preparatory work

Before finishing, you should prepare the surface on which you plan to apply the decor. First you need to remove the old coating. The thickness of the created finishing layer can reach 1.5 cm. Imitation brick for interior decoration looks good on exceptionally flat walls. Therefore, it is necessary to check their quality by level. If the deviation exceeds 2 cm / m, then the surface must be leveled with beacons (cement mortar). Leave for several days until the mixture dries completely.

The smooth surface on which the plaster will be applied should not contain large depressions and bulges. Any defects should be repaired with a mixture. Prepared for finishing, the dried wall must be coated with a suitable primer. Without this, the solution layer may flake off over time. The primer for brick walls for plaster is selected according to the base material. It is convenient to apply the liquid with a paint roller, and in the corners and other hard-to-reach places it is necessary to carefully walk with a brush.

After the primer dries, the plaster is mixed. When preparing the material, the consumption of the composition should be provided. If the layer is laid with a thickness of 10 mm, then 8-9 kg of dry mix is \u200b\u200brequired per 1 m² of surface. Standard bags are packaged in 30 kg. This amount is enough for a wall section of 3.5m². The floor, in order not to get dirty, is recommended to be covered with a film. The solution should be kneaded with a drill with a special nozzle. The mixture should be quite thick and viscous. If it is not planned to paint the finish, then the solution can be tinted.

The brick wall decor will look absolutely natural if the seams are drawn using a special tool (joint). But you can use another improvised “tool” (broken pencil, thick knitting needle, etc.).

Creating imitation brickwork

If it is planned to cover only a section of the wall with plaster, then work should begin with marking:

it is necessary to draw the borders of the finish with a pencil according to the level;
Apply masking tape along the lines.

To work with plaster, two steel spatulas (20 cm, 5 cm) are used. With a narrow tool, the mixture is superimposed on a wide one. Also, small defects (protrusions, pits) are corrected with a small spatula. With a wide spatula, the base is smeared with gypsum plaster (starting from the edge), the layer is leveled. The work is carried out in separate sections, their area depends on the volume of the prepared solution (up to 15 liters are mixed at one go). Achieving a perfectly flat surface is not worth it (natural brick does not happen like that). For applying seams, you can use a stencil for brick plaster.

To draw a brick pattern on the decor, you should familiarize yourself with two technologies:

cut the seam with a scraper;
before applying the solution, mark and stick masking tape.

Drawing seams with a scraper

In the first case, plaster brickwork is drawn after applying the mortar. A rule or level (1.5-1.8 m long) is applied to the dried surface of the decor. The marking of the seams is made with a sharp plate (the optimal width is somewhere around 0.5-1.0 cm).

The vending "drawing" of the masonry is performed based on one's own preferences. Marking on the wall should be done with bandaging of the seams. It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of a classic brick (250x65x120 mm). Today, elongated wall material is produced, or almost square. There are also embossed, textured, specially chipped and various non-standard products. You can’t draw any kind of seams on the wall, then the imitation of a brick from plaster will not turn out natural.

After that, you should take a scraper, a narrow chisel or some home-made tool and carefully draw along the drawn lines, removing the plaster. This is how seams are formed, the depth of which is 3-6 mm. A simple chisel to do this work is not very convenient. Excess mixture at the seams forms a "fringe", it should be constantly removed.

For accurate formation of seams, you can use jointing, it gives a convex or concave relief. A stucco brick wall is drawn starting with horizontal lines, and then short vertical ones are made. After the decor gains strength, all the flaws in the pattern should be removed. Excess mixture formed on the bricks after the formation of the seams must be immediately removed with a dry cloth. You can walk along the edges with a damp sponge.

It is important to have time to apply the drawing before the plaster is completely dry. Otherwise, you can damage the "bricks". Therefore, it is recommended to treat the surface in sections. After complete drying, the decor should be painted:

First, the entire surface is tinted.
Then you should carefully go through the seams with a narrow brush.

Forming seams with masking tape

There is another way to make bricks on a plaster wall. At the same time, future seams are marked with a pencil over the entire pre-primed, finished surface. Short vertical lines must be shifted in relation to the upper (and lower) row by half a brick. Masking tape is glued according to the marking (first horizontally, then vertically). If this process is done differently, the tape will be difficult to remove. Its ends are brought out beyond the border of the treated area.

A solution is applied to the surface prepared in this way with a spatula. It is quickly leveled, the degree of surface smoothness can be chosen according to one's own desire. It depends on whether you like more embossed bricks or absolutely even ones. After that, without waiting for the solution to dry, gently pull the ends of the horizontal adhesive tape, which leaves a pattern of seams on the decor.

Do-it-yourself imitation of a brick wall from plaster requires a certain amount of experience. Therefore, beginners are advised to form a drawing in the first way.

To add severity, the dried-up "masonry" can be wiped with a hard brush. If you walk along the completely dried wall with sandpaper, the surface will become smooth. After that, the decor is ready for painting.

When the brick wall is finished and the surface has acquired the required hardness, all excess should be removed (mortar residues that violate the pattern). Features of the finish depend on whether a colored (tinted) mixture or a regular one was used.

Decorative plaster should not remain white-gray. Therefore, a colorless wall should be painted by mixing several different shades, or stop at the finished tone. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the interior design and lighting features. The wrong color can spoil the whole impression.

Advantages of masonry imitation

Do-it-yourself brick wall decoration has several advantages:

the performance of work will not require special financial costs, time costs, professional knowledge and special skills, accuracy and diligence are needed;
you can choose the material, focusing on your own preferences and financial capabilities (plaster, any additives, paint of a vending shade);
plaster mixtures are environmentally friendly and will not harm health;
imitation brickwork has good thermal insulation performance;
the finishing layer is thin enough, due to it the space of the room does not decrease;
a brick wall made of plaster does not require special care, for a long time it will not need to be repaired.

"Brickwork" in a modern interior

A brick wall in the interior is made when decorating a loft style. This method makes an effective accent. You can not overdo it and finish the whole room "under the brick." You can give the following options for creating accents:

the space around the opening, niche, arch, door, window, mirror is made out, such a solution looks quite attractive;
the wall is decorated with separate “bricks” scattered along the wall, in this case the surface does not resemble real masonry, but an original decor is obtained;
one wall is finished entirely, this approach is a classic accent in the room, which is done where all attention is paid, for example, the wall behind the TV or fireplace.

Minor bugs
This type of finish can be disappointing:

in a room of very modest size, where it is important to save every centimeter of free space;
this surface attracts dust very much, which is easily removed with a damp sponge, but this should be done quite often;
repairs may require additional financial costs if you need to level the base before making a brick wall of plaster.

But no matter what, this type of interior decoration is very popular.

strir.ru

How to make an imitation of a brick wall: a short list of ways

The easiest way is if you have brickwork hidden under the plaster. Upholster the plaster, clean the seams, primer and paint. It turns out a natural brick wall. And it will look quite "old" and vintage. Those who are less fortunate will have to imitate this brickwork. The good news is that there are many ways, inexpensive materials are available, you can make a “brick wall” on concrete, drywall, plywood ... any more or less durable surface. Time, by the way, most techniques take a little. So, here's how you can make an imitation of brick for interior decoration:

This is just a short list. Each item has several technological differences. So imitation brick for interior decoration can be done in at least a dozen ways. Let's talk about some in more detail.

sawing a brick

The idea seems reasonable to replace the expensive “brick-like” finishing tiles with bricks loosened into plates. But a brick is needed of good quality, without voids, inhomogeneities, underburning or burnt places. In general, a brick is needed expensive. Or old.

An example of sawn bricks ... but these are two "beautiful" parts

It is better to cut it with a water-cooled circular saw. You will get a decorative brick-like tile in natural color. The thickness of the tile is at least 8-10 mm. The advantages are clear: low price, no need to paint - there is a natural color. This homemade brick-like tile is then glued to the walls using ordinary tile adhesive.

For a more pronounced color, you can cover with a matte varnish

And this is for the design of the outer corners

But there are also disadvantages: you need a good quality brick, but you still need to find it. When cutting, the plates may break. Only two of them are obtained with a beautiful surface - extreme. The rest will have to be finalized manually, creating a relief. It is dreary, dusty, long, difficult and it is not a fact that brick imitation will learn really “on the level”.

With all the shortcomings, this method is used. And this is perhaps the only option for home-made imitation of brickwork, which can be used for outdoor decoration. For these purposes (finishing the facade of the building), by the way, you can cut a brick into two halves. Everything is cheaper than buying tiles.

If "wet" or "dusty" work is not your forte, but you know how to draw at least a little, you can draw a brick wall. You will need acrylic paints, brushes, a couple of natural sponges, masking tape, thick paper plates for mixing paints. When diluting paints, remember that acrylic paints darken when they dry. And one more thing: they dry quickly, but freshly applied ones can be removed with a clean cloth dipped in water.

The whole process in step by step photos

First, we prepare the workplace: we cover the plinth and the adjacent floor with polyethylene or old wallpaper (it is better to fix it with adhesive tape). With masking tape we outline the borders - at the top, on the sides. At the bottom, the limiter is a plinth, although, in order not to get dirty, it can be removed.

Draw bricks on the wall

Describing is much longer than doing it all. A beginner can draw about 30 squares of imitation brickwork in a day. For maximum likelihood, there are several secrets, which we will discuss below.

Final touches

To make the brickwork painted on the wall look as natural as possible, there are a few small secrets:

With some ability and diligence, it is possible to ensure that the painted brickwork looks like natural. The main rule: imperfection and heterogeneity.

Brick imitation for interior decoration from plaster mortar

The general idea is simple: a layer of plaster or tile adhesive is applied to the wall, a seam is cut / pressed through it. After processing the edges of the "bricks" and seams, painting, a semblance of brickwork of varying degrees of plausibility is obtained. Everything is simple, but there are significant differences and nuances.

Brick imitation for interior decoration of premises from mortar, plaster (ordinary and decorative)

What and how to make a solution

The first question that arises is: what solution and from what is needed? Lots of recipes. Here are some options:

Regardless of what you make the solution from, it should be semi-dry, should not flow in any case. It will not need to be leveled, so its plasticity is not important to you, and additives - tile adhesive and PVA - will provide the adhesive ability. To adjust the consistency, add water in small portions.

Surface preparation

The wall on which we will make an imitation of brickwork does not have to be even. It should not be dust and dirt, crumbling fragments and particles. This is where the requirements end.

The process of preparing the wall is a thorough approach: first make the markup

Before starting work, it is better to prime the wall. The type of primer depends on the substrate. If the wall is concrete or loose, go through the "concrete contact". It will bind crumbling particles, create an adhesive surface on which any composition fits perfectly. If we decorate plywood, plasterboard or other similar material, you can do without a primer, or you can coat it with diluted PVA.

Technology number 1. We use thin tape to draw the seams

First, paint the wall in the color of the seams between the bricks. Someone plans gray-brown, someone white-gray. We cover the wall with paint of a suitable shade. On the prepared base, using a narrow masking tape (1 cm or a little less / more), we apply markings. The adhesive tape will mark the seams between the bricks, so we stick it horizontally, at a distance of about 6-6.5 cm from each other. When the horizontal lines are glued, glue the short vertical ones. They are at a distance of 23-25 cm from each other - this is the length of a standard building brick, but decorative ones can be shorter.

Now we take the solution, apply it to the wall. The layers are not the same, the thickness is 0.3-0.5 cm. We apply it according to the “how it goes” type, without achieving a flat surface, smooth transitions ... As it turned out, let it be so. We do not allow only obvious bald spots through which the wall glows. We filled the area, took a flat trowel (grater), slightly smoothed out what happened. Leave until it dries slightly: so that when pressed with a finger, the composition is slightly squeezed.

We apply the solution without caring about the beauty and the same thickness

We hook the ends of the horizontally glued strips of adhesive tape anywhere (when sticking, leave the “tails”), pull, remove along with the solution stuck to the tape. We remove the entire network. The edges of the "bricks" in this case are torn uneven. This is fine. Even good.

We take a toothbrush or a paint brush with fairly stiff bristles. We go through the seams with a toothbrush, removing the remnants of the solution. At the same time, the edges of the bricks are rounded. Then we take a wider brush and go through the surface with it, adding naturalness, removing too sharp edges. Leave to dry at room temperature for about 48-72 hours. Forced drying is impossible - it will crack. Although, if you want to have cracks ... If the composition has not been dyed in bulk, it's up to painting.

Technology number 2: cut through the "seams"

This method of imitation brick for interior decoration takes less time: no need to glue adhesive tape. We apply a solution to the surface of the wall. Everything is exactly the same as described above, only the layer can be thicker - up to 0.8-1 cm. After waiting for the solution to "grab" a little, we designate the seams. Here again, there are options:

The second option is more accurate. But you have to be careful not to be too flat. Although, due to the fact that the hand trembles, the seam “walks” slightly, which gives a more believable look.

Having done the horizontal seams, we proceed to cutting the vertical ones - also by hand. The width of the bricks is about 6 cm, the length is around 23-25 cm. When finished, we wait 12-14 hours. Until the composition is set enough to be picked off. When, with strong pressure, the concrete begins to crumble, we take a wide screwdriver (usual, which is a “spatula”) and pick out the mortar between the cut strips with it.

During…

When the seams are cleaned, we take a hard brush or brush, remove the remnants of the solution, crumbs. The bristles on the brush should be fairly stiff. If the solution is dry, you can try more drastic measures - a metal brush.

Technology number 3: seams with a saw

This way to make an imitation of brickwork for interior decoration differs only in that instead of a knife we take an old hacksaw blade.

After waiting until the mortar sets and does not creep, with the help of a saw we mark the boundaries of the seams. Here you choose one of the methods described above. But you don’t have to wait any longer: with a hacksaw, you paint the seams a little. Long horizontal seams are quick to make, but vertical ones are not very convenient, since the canvas is not very suitable for small distances.

From afar and you won't understand that it's just an imitation of a brick

This method is good because there is no danger of "overdrying" the solution. You can do the "joint" as soon as the solution hardens a little. In this state, it is easier to round the edges of the bricks, giving them a natural "old age". Minus - you have to adapt, otherwise you can do things.

We make a mold for casting brick tiles from gypsum

Another imitation of brick for interior decoration in an apartment or house can be cast: you can make gypsum tiles yourself in the form of bricks. To do this, an impression is taken from interesting specimens of bricks (a mold is made to form an artificial finishing stone), then a gypsum mortar is poured into it. The resulting tiles are used for wall decoration. This technology is good because it allows you to prepare several forms in which you can make bricks of different colors for different rooms.

We find bricks of interesting shape and a few almost ordinary ones, but with various small defects. We will use them for mold casting. It is desirable that there be at least a dozen of them, and preferably more. More diverse will be "artificial brickwork."

The result can be very similar to real masonry.

On the side that we will “multiply”, we apply grease or heated wax mixed with kerosene. This is necessary so that the silicone does not stick to the surface. When everything is dry, apply a layer of silicone sealant to the treated side. The layer thickness is 1-1.5 cm. Leave until the silicone is completely polymerized (the time depends on the type, it is written on the package).

You can also make the following forms: imitation of brick with marine motifs

When the silicone has hardened, we take the mounting foam and coat the mold without removing it from the brick. After the foam hardens, remove the brick, level the bottom of the mold so that it stands level. Can be used by filling with gypsum mortar. It sets quickly, if you have a dozen shapes in 2-3 days, you can make a tile for a couple of squares of imitation of a brick wall. Gypsum mortar, by the way, can be painted in bulk. Then new cracks and chips do not matter - like a brick.

dekormyhome.com

Step-by-step algorithm of actions

Wall scribing

The easiest way is along a long rail. Naturally, with exact observance of the distances between the horizontals (the bricks have the same dimensions). You can refer to the standard. The thickness of a single one is 6.5, one and a half - 8.8, double - 13.8 (cm).

Applying an imitation coating

There are many techniques, so we will limit ourselves to only the most common, based on the fact that the work is done independently.

With adhesive tape (painting tape)

Before starting work, the wall must be painted in the color that should be at the seams. Usually gray or white (or something in between). The fact is that depending on the components, their ratio in the mixture, the dried solution acquires a different shade. Further, horizontal seams are indicated (tape sticker). After that, it is easy to select individual bricks, simulating laying with a shift of products in adjacent rows (pieces of adhesive tape are attached vertically).

Peculiarity: since the tape will then have to be removed, there should be free ends, sufficient to grab them with your fingers. After that, the prepared mixture is applied to the wall.

Important: the consistency of the solution should be such that it does not flow down the wall. And the layer should be applied minimal, no more than 2 - 3 mm.

Option number 1- based on gypsum. But this material quickly hardens. Therefore, it is necessary to introduce the so-called "retarder" into the composition of the mixture. Its application leads to the fact that the layer of gypsum mortar does not harden for 20 to 40 minutes. Otherwise, it simply will not work to remove the tape to indicate the masonry seams.

Option number 2- a mixture of plaster + tile adhesive (1 to 1). In this case, only the smallest fractions of sand are used in the preparation process. This means that you will have to specially purchase it, since the usual one (from the river or from the quarry), even well-sifted, will not work.

disadvantages: With a large object, pasting the wall with adhesive tape will take a lot of time and the material itself. Too fast curing of the solution can lead to problems removing the adhesive tape from it in order to preserve the appearance of the picture.

Stenciled

The method is more complicated, since you have to prepare the grate. It is made from a sheet of plastic or rubber, knocking out rectangles in it.

In addition, it is advisable to create a template from thin rails, the undoubted advantages of which are:

the ability to work with solutions that quickly harden, because they have time to "grab" and dry;
a wide choice of materials and flexibility in carrying out any complex of works. The form of the design fully repeats the elements already considered;
the ability to create a template directly on the wall and images of any shape;
naturalness and naturalness of the appearance of the resulting brickwork.

disadvantages: a stencil needs to be made or money spent on the purchase of a finished product.

Imitation of a brick wall made of foam plastic (ceiling tiles) with your own hands

For false bricks, a flat polystyrene foam tile without a pattern is suitable. For our purposes, you can use any of its sides. The optimal size of the “stone” is 7/15 cm. If you increase the proportions, the wall will look unnatural. The process of making “stones” is simple: we squeeze them out of the ceiling tiles.

First, we will mark the polystyrene foam with allowances for the seams. Next, we push straight lines, after which we cut out the “bricks” with a paint knife. We glue the finished products with our own hands on the desired part of the wall. We use ceramic tile adhesive as a binder. There is no need to fill the seams with plaster. The gaps between the “stones” must be made quite small: 1-1.5 mm.

After finishing the work on the sticker, the bricks need to be painted. We try to apply as large a layer of paint as possible into the gaps, thereby creating an imitation of brickwork.

Do-it-yourself imitation of a brick wall from plaster (tile glue)

For the manufacture of parts, any tile adhesive is used, which is sold in the form of a dry mix. It must be diluted with water to a state of very thick sour cream. It is best to use the composition of white. Then we divide the whole mass into 3 parts, in each of which we add a little paint.

It is important that the paint differs in shade in each part.

Mix the mass in each pile like dough. We will get a mass with beautiful divorces. We roll out a “pancake” from it and cut bricks of the same size. Lay them out to dry. We do this until we collect the required number of “stones”.

We stick them on the wall using the same tile adhesive. We fill the seams with a composition painted in a darker color. At the end, the surface of the wall can be covered with several layers of varnish.

How to paint false bricks?

To get a more natural shade, you should mix two types of ocher: light and red. Then add a small amount of white to them. To make the texture of the brickwork look like a real one, we use the tamping technique for applying paints.

We take a sponge and begin to apply a pre-prepared thick mixture to the wall. After that, you need liquid paint of a “burnt bone” shade. We spray it on the bricks with a regular toothbrush.

To make the decor look even more natural, we color each row in a special way.

The second can be tinted with Mars diluted with water.

For the third - use sienna and white. All paints are applied using the same tamping method. Then continue to alternate shades in the same order. Upon completion of the work, it is recommended to varnish the wall in two layers.

If there is a desire to get a matte surface, then lightly walk with fine sandpaper.

This type of decoration has several subtleties, because, due to its features, it can both create a special atmosphere and clutter it up.

It is worth remembering that it is not at all necessary to imitate masonry in the area of \u200b\u200ball walls, it will be enough for one surface out of four, decorated in this way. When planning actions, it is important that you imagine a complete image of your own room - and then everything will work out.

Imitation of a brick wall with your own hands - photos of real objects:

tadgikov.net

Still, repairs are primarily not a domestic, creative matter)) I kept wondering - well, how can people make a “capital” throughout an apartment in three months? her decision is really under force in such a short time. However, as soon as even a slight smack of creativity and romanticism is mixed into the repair process, that's it - write it down!))
It was only in my third year (after decorating the room in a severely classical style, and the kitchen in the style of “Russified Provence”) that I finally decided what kind of entrance I want to see. Loft-not-loft, but here's the brickwork - an unconditional yes!
I figured, calculated what it would “pour out” to lay out part of the walls with brick tiles ... and shed a tear.
And then I took spatulas and paints, and it went-oh-axis!)

The first step is to carefully measure the entire wall (the wall was previously puttied and primed). I measured according to the template:

The template was “stolen” from this wonderful video tutorial, but the system for grading the wall from it was not useful to me.
Simply, using a template and applying it to the right places, I traced it with a pencil, made horizontal and vertical stripes haphazardly - just as I please.

Taping the seams is the most tedious and nasty stage :)

I worked in sections - personally it seemed to me easier.

I left my art to dry for an indefinite time - I needed time to decide on the decoration of the "bricks" and give them a complete resemblance to the masonry system.
After studying a huge number of illustrations, interiors and pictures on the Internet, I came to two conclusions:

In old masonry bricks are never the same color. Some are necessarily darker, others are lighter. Some - almost black, as if covered with soot, others - as if burnt out in the sun.
Old masonry never without efflorescence.

Both I had to achieve with the help of paints and brushes.
The problem from the first point was solved quite simply. Taking a juicy brick-colored paint as a basis, I mixed additives into it with varying intensity.
To give a lighter tone - white color (in the "Ob" - about 100 rubles.)
To make it dark, I found artistic bitumen in my own stash (its intended use did not impress me, and therefore it has been gathering dust in a box for almost a year).

With a wide dry brush and sponge, I selectively tinted either lighter or darker tones according to the main color of the texture paint.

And here's what happened:

Carefully, so as not to cover up the “bricks”, but at the same time blurting out so that the layers between the “masonry” also looked old, she painted the “seams” with a hard brush.

This is what the wall looked like at the end of this stage:

And meanwhile, with efflorescence, a real plug came out ... How to make them? Dry brush? Or a sponge? White paint, just to highlight the structure? I tried everything (on the same experimental wall in the bathtub), and I didn’t like anything!
But now I know for 100%: it is IMPOSSIBLE to imitate efflorescence with a dry brush and paint, it looks miserable !!!
Thanks to Andrei Volkov from Ufa - he gave the most valuable advice: "the best efflorescence on the masonry will come from water + add white tile grout to it."
So, in fact, I did. In a jar of water, she literally diluted a little bit of grout, loosened it all up, and applied horizontal watery stains with a wide brush.

After the artwork was completed, the entire "masonry" was varnished. To not get dusty. I used acrylic varnish, applied with a regular sponge.

www.vulpesmontana.livejournal.com

One of the fashion trends in interior decoration is a brick wall. Good for those who have a brick house. All they need is to beat off the plaster and slightly “shamanize” what is available. But what about the rest? There are wallpapers and brick-like tiles, but not all of them are believable, and good ones cost almost like a natural brick wall. The best option in this case is a self-made brick imitation for interior decoration. Moreover, “brick-tiles” can be made separately, or you can decorate the entire wall in one go.

How to make an imitation of a brick wall: a short list of ways

This is just a short list. Each item has several technological differences. So imitation brick for interior decoration can be done in at least a dozen ways. Let's talk about some in more detail.

sawing a brick

An example of sawn bricks ... but these are two "beautiful" parts

We lay out any texture from the sawn brick And this is for decorating the outer corners

How to paint brickwork on a wall

Draw bricks on the wall

We paint the wall with white semi-gloss acrylic paint. We leave to dry.
Preparing background paint. In one of the paper plates, mix 1/6 of the umber, 1/6 of the black paint and 4/6 of the titanium white. We immediately prepare some paint, apply it to the wall with a sponge, simply by applying the surface soaked in paint to the wall. You should not try to make a solid background - it should be torn, textured. In some places we put the paint more densely, passing twice, somewhere with a more transparent layer.
On a dried background, by hand, not on a ruler, draw several rows of bricks. We focus on the standard for masonry: 25 * 6.5 cm, the thickness of the seam is 0.8-1.2 cm. When marking, please note that using this technology it is easier to make the seam a little narrower by painting it than to try to expand it later.
To stain the "bricks" it is necessary to mix ocher and sienna in different proportions, getting different shades of "brick" colors - from yellowish-orange to brownish. We got some shade, painted a few “bricks” in random places. They mixed a new portion, painted over other bricks. We apply the paint with a brush, not trying to get a uniform surface or a dense layer of paint - the background layer is translucent. The edges of the "bricks" should also not be smooth.
For the traditional red-brown color, to sienna and red ocher, add a little light ocher, a little white. This color can be painted over several bricks in a row.
Another shade - add brown mars and a little water to the above composition. Apply with a brush or sponge - as desired.
If white and burnt sienna are added to ocher and sienna, we get another color.
We paint over all the bricks in random order with these shades.
Dilute white and a little ocher, add water. We apply the composition with a sponge, acting like a tampon.
We take an old toothbrush and "burnt bone" paint. We dip the bristles into the paint and spray it on the wall, imitating the heterogeneity and texture of clay bricks.
We give the bricks volume: dip a thin brush into a mixture of umber and white. We bring all the bricks from below and to the right or left. All on one side, depending on where the window is located (on the side opposite the window). The thickness of the eyeliner is different, since the masonry and the bricks themselves cannot be perfect.

Describing is much longer than doing it all. A beginner can draw about 30 squares of imitation brickwork in a day. For maximum likelihood, there are several secrets, which we will discuss below.

Final touches

To make the brickwork painted on the wall look as natural as possible, there are a few small secrets:

With some ability and diligence, it is possible to ensure that the painted brickwork looks like natural. The main rule: imperfection and heterogeneity.

Brick imitation for interior decoration from plaster mortar

What and how to make a solution

The first question that arises is: what solution and from what is needed? Lots of recipes. Here are some options:

Surface preparation

The wall on which we will make an imitation of brickwork does not have to be even. It should not be dust and dirt, crumbling fragments and particles. This is where the requirements end.

The process of preparing the wall is a thorough approach: first make the markup

Technology number 1. We use thin tape to draw the seams

Technology number 2: cut through the "seams"

The second option is more accurate. But you have to be careful not to be too flat. Although, due to the fact that the hand trembles, the seam “walks” slightly, which gives a more believable look.

During…

Technology number 3: seams with a saw

This way to make an imitation of brickwork for interior decoration differs only in that instead of a knife we take an old hacksaw blade.

We make a mold for casting brick tiles from gypsum

How and what to paint

Recently, a white brick wall has become fashionable. If you are going to do just that, there are no problems: seams with a brush, the surface with a roller. If you want to have a not too monochromatic color, add a little tint to the base coloring composition - gray, brown, yellow ... or at least pink or blue. Paint with this paint. Add more white to the rest and add highlights with this lighter composition using a semi-dry roller, sponge, brush. If desired, you can apply the upper "shadows" with silver, bronze, adding a little gold. Here is what you like best.

Imitation of brick in the bedroom - looks very stylish

If the seams in the imitation of brick luggage should be darker, first go through them with a brush. Then, with a roller with a short or medium pile, we paint over the very surface of the bricks. If you take a roller with an even shorter pile, dip it in paint of a different shade (lighter or darker - that's how it goes), in bronze, silver, gilding, etc. and with this roller, quickly, slightly touching, paint over the most protruding parts, you get an even more interesting effect. In general, you can experiment. With this approach, imitation of brick becomes a design object and the main decoration of the interior.

If the wall is made of ordinary, non-facing bricks, if it has lost its former gloss over time or you don’t like its color, sooner or later you will face the question of finishing it. For example, about how to paint a brick wall - on a balcony, on the facade of a building or inside it.

This is the most affordable, inexpensive and fastest way to ennoble the surface, but the paint will last for a long time and look beautiful only if the technology of its application is followed. Therefore, despite the seeming simplicity of such a finish, it is worth understanding this issue in detail.

Before you run for paint, think: are you ready for the rather laborious work of surface preparation, the need to repeat this procedure every 4-5 years, spreading dirt and dampness. If the decision is made and not discussed, let's proceed.

It is important! Newly erected walls, partitions and other brick structures can be painted no earlier than a year later. The material should dry and leach well during this time.

Preparing walls for painting

A carefully prepared surface not only guarantees a high-quality decorative coating, but also facilitates the process of its application. Therefore, before painting a brick wall, we will deal with its cleaning, grinding and priming. The set of works depends on the condition of the wall: its degree of deterioration, the presence of efflorescence, dirt, mold, old paint, etc.

So:

If the wall has already been painted before, the old paint will have to be completely removed so that the fresh one does not peel off.. Depending on the type of paint, it is washed off with soapy water, scraped off with a sandpaper or scraped off with a spatula, after wetting it (see How to wash off the paint without problems);

Advice. Do not use metal brushes for this, as they leave deep scratches on the surface.

Dirty walls with traces of mold also need to be washed.. Grease marks are removed with the same soapy water or a detergent solution with sodium orthophosphate in the composition (see How to clean a wall from grease stains: tips). Then it is necessary to wash everything off with clean water;
In the same way (with water and a stiff non-metal brush), traces of efflorescence are also removed.- white salt stains. Moreover, more than one treatment may be required if, after drying, the spots appear again;

After cleaning the wall, if necessary, you need to repair: putty cracks, cracks and chips, renew masonry seams. After the mortar has dried, go over the surface with a fine-grained sandpaper, removing excess putty and sanding the brick.

Now it is necessary to wait for the final drying of the surface and provide conditions acceptable for painting. This is a normal (+15 - +30 degrees) temperature and low humidity.

Paint selection and staining

In order for the paint to lay down well and hold firmly, the instruction requires treating the brick wall with a special primer for bricks with high water resistance on a latex or oil basis.

It is applied with a brush (see. Brushes for painting: which ones to choose) or with a roller, first on the damaged areas where there were stains of mold or grease, and then the surface is completely covered in 1-2 layers. Of course, each layer is dried before applying the next or paint.

Advice. When deciding what paint to paint a brick wall with, immediately decide on the primer: it is best if both compositions are on the same basis.

The choice of paint is largely determined by the place of its application.

If you need to paint the facade of the house or a brick fence, only paint for outdoor work is used, which is resistant to moisture, frost, ultraviolet rays and other natural factors and retains its original appearance for a long time.
For stoves, fireplaces and walls, in which chimneys pass, thermal insulation paint is selected.
For interior work you can take only environmentally friendly paints that do not emit harmful substances into the air.

There may be other requirements. For example, the coating in the bathroom and in the kitchen should be durable, not afraid of water and easy to clean. But there is one general prerequisite: it is the resistance of the paint to alkaline environments.

Many formulations meet these requirements - oil, silicone for outdoor use, water-soluble emulsion for indoor use.

The most worthy option is acrylate paints, which have good vapor permeability, high wear resistance, a huge selection of colors, ease of application and maintenance. They have only one drawback - the high price.

The dyeing technology after all the measures taken is standard: the paint is applied with a brush or a roller with a thick fur coat so that the villi reach the depressions in the seams. It is best to apply two coats for an even color. And if the color of the wall and paint are contrasting, more layers may be required.

Draw a brick wall

Brickwork is very decorative and expressive; it literally suggests itself in some interior styles. But what to do if there is no desire or opportunity to make it or to tile the walls with tiles imitating masonry? You can just draw it.

Now you will learn how to paint a brick wall, creating a very believable imitation:

First, as usual, the preparatory work, which consists in removing any old finish, dirt and crumbling areas from the wall, priming the surface.

Note. The surface should be strong, but not necessarily even and smooth, especially if you need to imitate rough masonry for a loft style. Therefore, the decision on the need for putty is made depending on the purpose of decoration. But in this case, there is no need to bring the surface to the ideal.

Next, we lay a film or old newspapers on the floor and proceed to creativity.
You can create masonry outlines in different ways: draw them on a ruler or by hand (we don’t need the geometric clarity of the lines) and seal them with tape. Or use a special stencil template when painting. The latter is convenient when you need to decorate a small section of the wall, so tape is better.

You can go from the opposite and first paint the walls in the main color, and after they dry, draw the bricks and paint them.
Now we take several trays and pour paint of different colors into them: brown, orange, brown, gray, yellow, white - the colors and their number depend on the desired palette.
It is best to paint over the bricks with a sponge, using the trimming method - making jerky stamping movements and avoiding strokes. This will give the surface the porous look inherent in real bricks.

The sponge is first dipped in one tray. Then immediately in the second, with a different paint, after which each brick is painted over individually. They can be made the same or different, using several sponges for different shades.
Somewhere the paint layer can be dense, somewhere thinner, with the main color of the wall showing through. This process is difficult to describe in words - you need to try.
When the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall is painted, you need to wait for it to dry, and then remove the adhesive tape. If the color of the “seams” suits you, you can leave them alone, if not, take a thin brush and draw them without trying to make clear lines.
Next comes the fun part: creating volume. It is made using gray and white paints and a thin brush. On two adjacent edges (for example, the bottom and right) of each brick, we apply a “shadow” with gray paint, and highlight the remaining two (top and left) with white.

When finished, you can refine the drawing a little more if it doesn’t seem like real masonry to you. To do this, with a “dry” brush, spots of a different color are applied to the bricks, and the seams are slightly smeared, in some places going to the corners and simulating chips.

The process itself can bring great pleasure to creative people. But if it seemed time-consuming and complicated to you, use other ways to create a similar texture. For example, buy and stick brick wallpaper.

Conclusion

Repair is not always a big financial expense and damaged nerves. Sometimes it does not require large investments and even causes pleasant emotions. Try the tips here and see for yourself. And if something remains unclear, watch the video in this article.

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