Do-it-yourself watering can attachment. Homemade watering can for seedlings from a plastic bottle. Watering can be fun

Hello to all DIY lovers.

Today I want to present a very simple option for making a homemade watering can from a plastic bottle, which is especially convenient to use for watering seedlings of various vegetable crops.

I was forced to make such a watering can by the need to ensure the convenience and ease of watering a large number of vegetable seedlings growing on our windowsills at home.

The fact is that when watering from an ordinary watering can, the watering can itself has to be kept above and slightly to the side of the watered plant, so that its lower edge is almost at the level of the container in which this plant is grown.
This method is well suited for watering flowers growing in pots and standing on the windowsill in one row.

However, if you have to water the seedlings, especially those that have grown quite a lot, and the containers with which are in several rows, then using an ordinary watering can is not very convenient. Since with this method of watering, the watering can has to be raised high enough above the seedlings. But at the same time, a stream of water falls from a great height, which can lead to splashing and erosion of the roots of plants, and if you lower the watering can below, you can simply crush the seedlings.

That is why, especially for watering seedlings, I decided to make a special watering can from a plastic bottle with a long spout from a plastic hose.
Thanks to this design, when watering, you can keep the water bottle itself on the side of the seedlings, and the long spout can be pushed through the stems of the seedlings and thus reach the farthest containers with plants. At the same time, water from the bottle is poured out not under the influence of gravity, as in a conventional watering can, but as a result of pressing the body of a plastic bottle with your hands.

For the manufacture of such a watering can, we need the following accessories:

Materials:
The plastic bottle itself has a capacity of 2-2.5 liters.
Cork from a plastic bottle.
Transparent plastic hose with a diameter of 10 mm.
Instruments:
Caliper or ruler.
Scissors.
Drill for metal with a diameter of 9.5 mm.
Electric drill.

First you need to drill a hole in the cork. In this case, the diameter of this hole must be 0.4-0.8 mm less than the outer diameter of the plastic hose. This is necessary so that the hose enters the plug hole with some interference, to ensure the strength and tightness of its connection with the plug.

Therefore, first we must measure with a caliper or ruler the outer diameter of the plastic hose. I have a hose diameter of 10 mm, so I took a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm.

After that, insert the end of the hose into the drilled hole in the plug.

As I said, the hose should enter the hole of the plug with a good tightness, and its end should protrude from the underside of the plug by 4-5 mm.

Then, with scissors, obliquely cut off a piece of hose of the required length, which will serve as the spout of our watering can. I made the length of the nose equal to about 20 cm.

You can choose any length of the spout hose, depending on what and how you need to water.

And now our homemade watering can for seedlings is ready!

By the way, I must say that for greater reliability and tightness, at first I wanted to glue the cork with the hose with hot glue. However, it turned out that the hose in the cork is already holding quite firmly, and the tightness is well ensured. Therefore, I haven’t begun to glue it yet, especially since if something happens, it will be easy to pull the hose out of the cork and replace it with a piece of the same hose of a different length.

Now let's try to water the seedlings from our watering can.

As I expected, watering seedlings from such a watering can is quite convenient, since you can “crawl” everywhere with a long spout, and at the same time, the plastic bottle itself is on the side and does not interfere with seeing the place of watering, and also does not crumple the seedlings.

It is also very convenient that the long spout of our watering can is flexible, and thanks to this, even the most inaccessible places can be watered by simply bending the hose.

In addition, it turned out another advantage of this watering can.
It turned out that if you do not press the plastic bottle during watering, but simply hold it at an angle, then the water from the nozzle-hose will not flow in a stream, but drip drop by drop, or pour in a very thin stream.

And this is very convenient when watering even very small seedlings, which have just sprouted from seeds and cannot be watered with a strong jet of water.
That is, in this case, very careful, gentle watering is obtained.

Another convenience of such a watering can is that if the capacity of one plastic bottle is not enough for watering, and you have to use two or three bottles, then there is no need to make such nozzles from a hose for each bottle.
Just one nozzle is enough, because you can simply, having irrigated from one bottle, remove the nozzle from it and screw it onto another bottle, and then, after emptying it, rearrange it to the next one and so on.

Naturally, if necessary, several of these nozzles can be made at once from corks with hoses of different lengths inserted into them, and possibly different diameters, for various irrigation options.

But for me, nevertheless, one nozzle is enough for now.

Well, that's probably all! All the best and all the best!

To water the lawn and beds, make holes in the bottle and screw it to the hose with adhesive tape. Just get stronger! In addition to a watered lawn, your kids will be delighted with such a “sprinkler”.

Watering can from a milk canister

We take a thicker needle, heat it on fire, make holes in the lid ...

Pour water into the milk canister, screw the lid back on. Lost a divider from a garden watering can? Nothing, now you have a new one.

egg seedling containers

Eggshells are the perfect way to grow seeds for seedlings. After the plants have grown, they can be planted in the ground along with the container. It will also serve as fertilizer.

Broken plate garden markers

Broke a cup or plate - fortunately! Use it instead of garden markers by signing the names of the plant. You don't need to spend money to buy them. Excellent signs are obtained from both plastic knives and ordinary branches. Ice cream sticks work too.

Another container

Toilet paper rolls are another great container option. Make four longitudinal cuts on one side of the sleeve and fold like a box.

Fork repeller

To keep curious cats and other pets from trampling on your garden beds, stick plastic forks near each plant. Reliable protection!

Bricks instead of pots for plants

Hollow (hollow) wall blocks are great for the role of borders and mini-flower beds for plants. They will come in handy not only in the garden, but also on the balcony in the city.

Shoe sections for vertical gardening

From the old hanging sections, which are usually used to store slippers and combs, you will get very beautiful vertical flower beds.

Bottle bird feeder

We make four holes in the bottle so that one is higher than the other (at an angle of 45 degrees), insert the old spatulas for stirring, pour in food or seeds. The feeder is ready.

bird repeller

Do not know how to protect the strawberry crop from magpies and other birds? Try this easy way. Paint small pebbles with paints so that they look like berries and spread them under the bushes a couple of weeks before the crop ripens. Birds will try to peck at them, realize that they are inedible, and by the time the real berries ripen, they will no longer pay attention to something red among the bushes. This method works out of tomatoes too! Only for them you need to use old red Christmas balls.

Bottle mini greenhouses

From a cut plastic bottle (agree, it is generally indispensable in the garden).

Old trellises and pallets instead of cabinets

How are they not used! And this method, you see, is a great solution for storing garden tools in a shed.

free fertilizer for the garden

Instead of buying chemicals, use the water the vegetables were boiled in. Do not drain it into the sink, but pour it into a container and safely water the plants in the garden. There are a lot of useful things in this water that plants really like. Of course, the water must first be cooled to room temperature.

Old tablecloth instead of a wheelbarrow

Need to quickly drag something heavy from one corner of the garden to another? Found a great way.

Indoor, garden and garden plants need regular watering. Ideally, so that the water introduced during irrigation does not erode the soil, therefore, for irrigation, it is better to use a specialized watering can that divides the flow into several thin jets. Although this is an inexpensive inventory, it is not necessary to buy it, but can be made for free in a couple of minutes from a canister that would have been thrown away anyway.

Materials and tools:

• canister with a handle;
• drill;
• drill 2 mm.

The watering can will be made from a plastic canister with a handle. Milk, liquid detergent and various household chemicals are often sold in such containers. The volume of the canister should be selected depending on the number of plants that need to be watered, so as not to make frequent refueling. Such containers come in different capacities from 1 liter. and more.

Making a watering can from a canister

10-20 holes are made in the canister lid with a 2 mm drill. In the absence of a drill, they can be burned with a hot nail. To do this, it is heated over a gas stove or an ordinary candle. In order not to burn yourself, the nail should be held with pliers. It is better to burn the lid in the open air, as smoke and the smell of burnt plastic are released.

So that when pouring water, the canister does not deform, and the liquid flows out quickly, air must enter the watering can to prevent a vacuum. To do this, in the handle at the neck you need to make one hole with the same drill or nail. After refueling, the watering can is ready for use.

The advantages of using a homemade watering can from a rigid canister with a handle over ordinary PET soda containers are undeniable. Such a home-made product is much more capacious, it does not shrink when poured, thanks to the handle it fits more comfortably in the hand, and the water flows out of it in even streams without jerking.

Video of a watering can from a canister:

I decided to write today's article for those who have a dacha or a summer cottage. Let's talk about watering plants. There are many ways to water plants: you can buy special nozzles (but this is a waste of money), you can water the plants from a watering can (but you need to bend down to each plant - after that your back hurts and bad posture occurs), you can just point the hose at the plant ( but this option is also not always convenient and not all plants can be watered in this way). After analyzing this problem, I came to the conclusion that you can make a device (watering can) for watering plants yourself at home, which will help you not to bend down, thereby maintaining the health of your back and changing watering modes (that is, you can water both with a jet and scatter water).

To make our universal dacha watering can, we need the following components:
- old unnecessary canister (10 - 20 liters);
- a crane (you can do without it, but with it our design will take on a more aesthetic appearance);
- the tube is flexible (about 1 meter, we took a transparent tube for aesthetics);
- a small piece of the same flexible tube (about 10 cm);
- hard tube (about 0.5 meters, we took part from an old fishing rod);
- a belt (in order not to carry the canister behind you, but to hang it on your shoulder);
- a container from under the film (it will serve us as a nozzle for spraying water).

So, at the lowest point of the canister, we make a hole, which in diameter will be slightly smaller than the diameter of the flexible tube:

Carefully insert the flexible tube into the hole we made in the canister

Next, take the faucet and carefully pull the flexible tube onto the faucet. On the other side of the faucet, we stretch a piece of flexible tube so that about 3-4 cm is put on the faucet, and the remaining 5-6 cm peek out:

After that, we take a rigid tube and carefully pull it onto the peeking part of the flexible tube.

Everything must be sealed so as not to let a drop of water through, so pull it as best as possible.

Now we attach a belt to the handle of the canister.

Next, you need to make a nozzle that will spray water. For this, a container from under the film is useful. In the lid of the container, we make a hole in diameter that matches the diameter of the rigid tube.

Next, put a cap with a hole on a rigid tube

We make many small holes in the container itself.

Our universal watering can for watering plants is ready!

We collect water in the canister:

Close the canister tightly with a lid and put the design on your shoulder. Next, slightly open the lid on the canister, thereby creating pressure. Next, we open the tap and as we see the water flows:

Now we put the container-nozzle on a rigid tube and open the water:

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earth drill

Such a technical device makes it easy to extract powerful roots of various weeds deeply seated in the soil from the soil.

hydrodrill

The device is designed to apply fertilizer directly to the root zone, significantly reduce moisture loss through evaporation, reduce the degree of injury to plant roots, and wash off pests from trunks and branches.

Hydrodrill. 1 - tube, 2 - tip, 3 - hose, 4 - tee, 5 - handle, 6 - tap, 7 - dispenser tank, 8 - flexible partition, 9 - hose, 10 - valve, 11 - hose.

A conical tip is put on a durable rubber hose. The diameter of its outlet should be 6 - 8 mm. With a pressure in the water supply system of 1 atm, the water flowing out of the hydraulic drill washes out a hole in the soil up to 70 cm deep (up to 6 cm in diameter) in a matter of seconds.

In order to apply top dressing with the help of a hydraulic drill, a hydraulic compressor with a flexible partition is connected to it. After connecting it, the supply of the nutrient solution is regulated using a special valve.

Drill from an old pot

A drill made from an old pan is fixed on a riser, having previously installed a drill bit (25 mm in diameter) from below. (Instead, a strip of steel twisted in a spiral can be used.) A knife is attached to the body from 2 sides. Before each of them, small slots were made (30 - 40 mm wide). When the drill is deepened through these same slots, the soil is fed into the pan. Then it is removed.

Drill from an old pan. 1 - tip, 2 - slot, 3 - knife, 4 - knife mount, 5 - body, 6 - riser.

Markers and planters

In the summer cottage, wherever you turn, manual labor is completely required. Even primitive mechanization of work will greatly facilitate the work and increase labor productivity. A marker is a device that allows one movement to make not one, but several grooves (or nests) for seeds at once.

Cross marker

cross marker. 1 - base, 2 - rail, 3 - handle, 4 - stand-support, 5 - tap.

If it is planned that the crops on the bed will be located across, the grooves are made using a transverse marker that captures the entire width of the ridge.

The base of the marker is the board. From below, slats are nailed to it, but not flat, but having a triangular section. A handle with a stand-support and a tap is attached from above. The marker is placed across the ridge and rested with the foot on the board. In this case, one of the edges of the rail is pressed into the soil and leaves even grooves. The thorn of the tap is a kind of border for the next installation of the marker. Row by row, setting a marker, mark the entire garden.

Longitudinal marker

When the plants are placed along the ridge, a longitudinal marker is used, shaped like a rake. But this is only in form: instead of teeth, 3-sided parallel wooden blocks are attached to the base.

The device makes it possible to make 12 furrows at once in one pass.

simple marker

A simpler marker will help make planting vegetables more accurate.

Its design and dimensions are shown in the figure (1 - for radish seeds, 2 - for pea seeds).

Rake marker

You can also adapt an ordinary rake for a marker. But this is not without improvement.

2 metal points are attached to the rake with bolts, the length of which exceeds their teeth. Having drilled several holes in the rake bar, rearranging the points, you can change the distance between them, and therefore the interval between the grooves.

Simplified Marker

It will help out when you need to make many holes for seeds. Looks like a tool used by plasterers. Made from a board or a piece of chipboard. Wooden spikes are fixed on the working surface of the marker, and a handle is attached on top.

Easy marker

They are made from old ("toothless") rakes. To the base, on the opposite side, "antennae" of 3 thin metal plates are riveted.

A triangular recess is provided in the middle of the base. Thanks to it, the marker can be moved along a stretched cord, which guarantees accurate marking.

Marker (I. Mikhailov)

It is intended both for sowing radishes and carrots, and for marking the area for tomatoes and cucumbers. The craftsman based the invention on wooden slats 50–60 mm wide (15–30 mm thick and 130 and 200 cm long). He planed them with a planer, shaping them into a wedge, and then connected them with 2 short (proportional to the spacing) transverse bars. Before starting agricultural work, the gardener puts the structure on the bed, lightly presses on it with his foot - and furrows 20-30 mm deep appear in the soil. The innovator determines the location of the future plant as follows: he lays a pre-marked pipe with a diameter of 76.2 mm on the site. Its length corresponds to the size of the site.

Marker (N. Semenov)

The inventor passed a steel bar (diameter 12 mm) through a metal pipe (length 30 and outer diameter 6 cm). At the ends of the homegrown axle, he planted a bearing.

To the same axis, the gardener attached 2 curved plates forming "horns". A second pipe is inserted between their ends, but already 120 cm long (through the ears of the plates and the lower end of the second pipe, for greater strength of the connection, 2 rows of holes with a diameter of 8 mm were drilled. Mounting bolts M8 were inserted into them). Depending on the desired row spacing, from 3 to 7 disks (outer diameter 100 and inner diameter 60 mm) are put on a shaft rotating in a horizontal plane. The thickness of the disks is 10 mm, their outer edge is sharpened into a cone). In order to facilitate the movement of the marker from above, a handlebar from a children's bicycle is inserted into the vertical pipe.

Multi-row marker

Made from a piece of thick plywood (or chipboard). At the base of the fixture, holes are drilled at the required intervals (in several rows). Wooden round pegs are driven into them, protruding from one side of the base by the required amount. The lower end of the pegs is sharpened. Handles are attached to 2 sides of the base.

Seeder-shoe

They use such an original device for sowing seeds of fairly large garden crops, placed in a row at a step distance (or a multiple of a step). With it, you can even sow the seeds of some trees (for example, spruces), as well as corn and melons.

The device, shaped like a bird's beak, is attached to the heel of the boot with straps. Having taken a step, the gardener presses the "beak" of the seeder into the ground. It forms a hole. In this case, the lever touches the spring plate and turns. The "beak" opens - and the seeds fall into the ground.

A container with seeds is attached to the belt. It is connected to the "beak" with a flexible tube. But just throwing a seed into the ground is not enough: it needs to be watered and fed. For this purpose, another tube is brought to the “beak”, through which water or liquid fertilizer enters the hole.

cane seeder

Eliminates constant tilting during sowing. For manufacturing, an old bicycle is suitable. A movable seed container is inserted into the vertical part of the handle. In the lower part of the device, a trapezoidal strap with a seed placement depth regulator and a soil compactor are riveted. Before work, seeds are poured into the container and deepened into the sling to the required depth (after setting the limiter). Then the "cane" is turned around its axis by 90 - 130 °, as a result of which a funnel-shaped nest is obtained. After that, the container is lifted, and the seeds rush into the chamber. Through the slot with a finger, the required amount of seeds is pushed into the tube.

Cane seeder. 1 - container for seeds, 2 - container fasteners, 3 - slot, 4 - chamber, 5 - container, 6 - tube, 7 - strap, 8 - soil compactor, 9 - depth regulator.

Three-wheeled seeder (M. Krasilnikov)

The craftsman fitted 3 wheels to the seeder: the rear one was from a children's bicycle (300 mm in diameter), the front wheels (on the same axle) were from a baby stroller. On a frame bent in the form of the letter “P” made of strip iron (40 × 350 mm in size) (525 mm long and 115 mm wide), a box of plywood with a plexiglass cover is placed and pulled with 2 bolts. This is a seed bin. Inside the box on 2 plain bearings, in a horizontal plane, the main part of the apparatus is mounted - a shaft carved from birch and varnished, shaped like a spool for threads. One of 3 replaceable tapes made of a leather belt is inserted into its cavity, in which hemispherical depressions are burned out (their number depends on the area of ​​​​crops, and the diameter is 10 - 8 mm). When the seeder moves across the plowed area, the bicycle chain stretched between the rear wheel sprocket to the seeding coil rotates the latter. The cells of the tape in the hopper capture the seeds and send them to the funnel (the diameter of the funnel itself is 56 mm, the outlet tube is 28 mm).

The seeder is three-wheeled. a - seeder diagram (side and top view), b - seeding coil diagram (top and side view); 1 - driving wheel, 2 - seeding unit, 3 - frame, 4 - marking wheel, 5 - funnel, 6 - coulter, 7 - seed tube, 8 - coil, 9 - handle, 10 - sprocket, 11 - chain.

From there, the seeds fall by gravity first into the coulter, and then into the furrow.

The simplest planter

Under it, you can adapt any (fortunately, they now come in different volumes) pharmacy vial. Seeds are poured into it, the neck is plugged with a cork, into which the hollow thickened end of the goose feather is passed. Before sowing the seeds, the vial is tilted and gently shaken. Seeds lie down in the furrow prepared in advance with an even line.

Simple crutch

Designed for planting potatoes and other crops. It is made from a cutting of arbitrary length. A bar 170 - 180 mm long is nailed across the handle, at a distance of 250 mm from the sharpened end.

One person makes holes in certain places, and the other lowers nodules into them.

The crossbar on the handle prevents the spike from going deeper into the soil than required, which ensures the same depth of the planting holes.

The transverse part of it has a length of 130 - 200 mm and a width of about 100 mm, is made in the form of a shuttle and is mounted on the handle. The device is convenient to make grooves for sowing seeds.

Cabbage crutch

Use when planting cabbage seedlings and other vegetable crops. The crutch consists of a handle, pointed on one side, 1.25 m long and a handle, which is also made of wood. The landing process, like using a simple crutch, requires a partner. The first, walking along the ridge, makes holes in the soil, and the second plants seedlings in them.

Irrigation tools and devices

If watering the ridges can be handled either with a conventional watering can or an improved one, then in the garden this operation turns out to be quite laborious. And there is no escape: trees and shrubs also want to "drink". So let's talk about sprinklers. All home-made irrigation systems have a significant drawback: too much water consumption. In light of this, gardeners are interested in drip irrigation. Such a device is more often used when there are few fruit trees on the site.

watering cans

For decades, the design of a fairly simple representative of gardening equipment has remained virtually unchanged. Nevertheless, skilled gardeners are constantly modernizing what, it would seem, cannot be modernized.

Watering can-telescope

In a garden watering can, the watering net nozzle is usually located just above the handle. A piece of metal (or rubber) pipe lengthens the standard "nose". It is much more convenient to work with an improved watering can: the “telescope” delivers life-giving moisture to the edge of even the widest beds.

Watering can with compact spout

Usually, during storage and transportation, the spout of the watering can requires additional space. Yes, and it interferes with scooping up water from the barrel. The watering can will become more convenient during operation and storage when the spout and body are connected with a corrugated rubber tube. A cable is tied to the mesh nozzle and secured to the latch. So that the watering can does not rust from the remaining moisture, a hole is made in its body (closer to the top cover). It is better to store an improved watering can upside down.

Watering can with curved handle

A handle is soldered to the watering can in the form of an arc. The quality of watering will be significantly improved by a transverse tubular nozzle.

It replaces the standard grid. It is much more convenient to work with such a watering can, and besides, after modernization, its working grip will increase.

Watering can with divider

The water divider, as a rule, is put on the nozzle of the watering can. In this case, the fit of the branch pipe and the divider in relation to the branch pipe of the watering can is made internal.

Watering can with divider. 1 - body of the watering can, 2 - branch pipe with a baffle collar, 3 - divider.

The seating surface of the branch pipe divider can be both conical and cylindrical. The divider is inserted into the pipe until it stops. Thanks to this improvement, the water seeping into the gap between the nozzle and the divider is directed along the water stopper into the irrigation zone. The watering device reduces water consumption and increases the convenience of using the watering can. When applying liquid fertilizer, the divider is removed, while the solution flows through the nozzle. The shoulder prevents the fertilizer from flowing out of the fertilizing area through the nozzle and watering can.

Rational watering can

A standard garden watering can, with 2 handles (top and rear) on a cylindrical body, is extremely inconvenient. Firstly, you have to carry a full watering can, holding your hand out, which is quite tiring. Secondly, watering with such a watering can is also inconvenient: the center of gravity shifts as it decreases, and it is impossible to intercept hands, since their position is fixed.

A watering can with an oval body and a curved handle is much more rational. The design will allow you to occupy only one hand, and as the center of gravity changes, it can be intercepted. Such a watering can is more convenient to wear than a cylindrical one, and the arc-shaped handle runs along the body.

The most important advantage of this design is the following: the gardener can water the ridges with 2 watering cans at once, which significantly reduces the time for plant care. The capacity of the oval watering can is different. Make a watering can from galvanized sheet iron. A hoop is attached to the oval body for strength. Its edge should be slightly below the bottom of the watering can. Well, if the spout is 1.5 times higher than the body. This will make it possible to water plantings located at a great distance.

Original nozzle for the watering can

And you can make an original nozzle for the watering can. To do this, a piece of steel or roofing sheet is cut and bent. With its help of such a nozzle it is convenient to water the ridges with liquid fertilizer. At the same time, the mesh of the watering can does not become clogged, and the jet from the nozzle turns out to be fan-shaped.

Functional nozzles for the watering can

As a rule, gardeners are not satisfied with 1 - 2 types of crops grown on the site. And different plants require different care. The same applies to such a simple, at first glance, operation as watering. There may be only one watering can on the farm, but in order to increase its versatility, you must at least have a similar set of nozzles.

A set of accessories for a watering can. 1 - general view, 2 - nozzle with a sieve facing upwards, for watering tall plants, 3 - nozzle with a sieve facing forward, for watering plants of medium height, 4 - nozzle for watering with a fertilizer solution, 5 - nozzle for watering into holes, 6 - adaptation to a watering can for small-drop irrigation.

homemade sprayer

Simple and reliable fixture. Air is supplied to it using a hand pump. The device is mounted at the end of a pole 1.5 - 2 m long and is used to process the crowns of fruit trees.

They take the most ordinary canister (with a capacity of 10 - 12 liters). A fitting from a bicycle chamber is pressed into the handle, to which a hose 1.5 m long is connected. A hose with a spray is brought to the bottom of the container. Its end is attached to a pole. When using such a device, safety precautions must be strictly observed. It is strictly forbidden to spray trees with pesticides without using personal protective equipment.

Homemade sprayer. 1 - rail-holder, 2 - tap, 3 - canister, 4 - pump.

Universal sprayer

Water in the garden for spraying plants is taken from the main. To do this, a tap is made from it to the garden plot and a stopcock and a check valve are placed on it. From pipes with a diameter of 15 - 20 mm, several taps are cut in to parse water and connect hoses with a sawing tip. The higher the water pressure in the network, the easier the work of the gardener.

Spraying scheme (a) and plant nutrition device (b). 1 - main water supply, 2 - outlet, 3 - stopcock, 4 - tap for water analysis, 5 - pipeline, 6 - hose, 7 - tip, 8 - check valve.

For spraying use a proportional dispenser. Its principle of operation is quite simple. Reducing the diameter of a pipe (for example, at a faucet) causes a drop in water pressure. By inserting a container with chemicals into this place, by turning the tap valve, the concentration of the solution used for spraying is changed.

Plants on the site are sprayed with clean water by connecting a hose to the nearest faucet. Various dispensers are used to feed plantings or protect them from pests. They are installed either on the pipeline or next to the tip.

A tank with a solution is also attached directly near the tip (Fig. b). As a rule, all devices are made from improvised materials. In this case, the dispenser is made from an old barrel and a plastic bag, the dimensions of which are slightly larger than the dimensions of the barrel. Scheme of work: the barrel is disconnected from the water supply using a 3-way tap. Pour the solution into the bag through the funnel. He, through the drain valve, displaces water from the barrel.

Upon filling the bag, the tap is opened, and now the water displaces the solution.

Poil Ring

It is not difficult to make such a device: you just need to have a rubber hose (about 10 m long) and a tee. Small holes are made in the hose at an equal distance from each other. After that, the hose is rolled into a ring (1 m in diameter) around the trunk of the fruit tree, and the ends are put on a tee connected through a tap to the water supply. The pressure is given such that trickles of water are immediately absorbed into the ground without forming puddles.

An almost ideal way of watering: using it, you do not need to dig an irrigation groove, which can harm the roots, or loosen the ground: a crust does not form on it during ring irrigation.

And most importantly, the water is evenly distributed under the crown, while not flooding the neck of the tree.

Mechanized water intake from the source

All “landowners” know that mechanized water intake for irrigation is associated with high energy costs, and therefore financial ones. Therefore, the ability to reduce energy costs naturally attracts many gardeners.

It is not at all difficult to make a wind-powered water intake installation. To use wind energy, a wooden riser is placed right above the well. From above, a rod with an impeller is attached to it. It turns out the drive shaft. In the well itself, below the water level, a driven shaft is installed. The drive is carried out using a porous rubber belt.

The impeller, under the influence of the wind, rotates and sets the belt in motion. He draws water from the well. Water is squeezed out of the belt using a special device (it is similar to wringing out an old washing machine), and it enters the water collector. The upper shaft with the impeller is mounted on an annular float so that it can turn in the direction of the wind. The belt is made from almost any material, but it must quickly absorb water.

Water supply with the help of wind. 1 - driven shaft, 2 - foam rubber belt, 3 - water collectors, 4 - annular float, 5 - drive shaft, 6 - shaft, 7 - impeller.

Automatic watering

A platform is built on a free patch and a container is installed on it. Its dimensions depend on the size of the garden (can be from 1 to 10 m 3). At the bottom of the tank there is a valve for water release.

In the neighborhood with a large capacity, they put a smaller one - a kind of water clock. It contains a 40 mm thick foam float (or a rubber ball). Water clocks are equipped with an outlet device into which special gaskets are inserted. Such inserts (up to 10 pieces) are made of aluminum. The holes in the inserts vary in diameter: from 0.1 mm to 1.4 mm. Each hole corresponds to a specific watering interval. If it is permissible to pour any water into a large container, then only clean water into a small one, otherwise the water clock will become clogged. Water from them, through a calibrated hole, seeps out gradually. At the same time as the water level, the float also drops.

Device for automatic watering. 1 - rod, 2 - rack, 3 - microswitch, 4 - switch.

When it reaches a certain position, a simple device (a lever with a weight and a cable) will pull the large capacity valve up. The drain hole will open and water will flow through the pipes to the plants.

They make holes at certain distances. Water seeps through them, moistening the soil.

When the water is poured out, the boom is lowered and the microswitch turns on the electric motor. The tank fills up, the boom rises and closes the switch on the rack.

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