Ceiling made of plastic panels. Seamless tiles on the ceiling: how to glue? Seamless pvc panels for ceiling

The easiest and cheapest option for finishing the ceiling are plastic panels. For their installation, there is no need to acquire special building skills. The installation process is quite simple and straightforward. Such material will be relevant both for residential bedrooms, office space, and for the humid atmosphere of the bathroom.

They do not get wet, do not change their color and do not sag over time.

Ceiling plastic is made of polyvinyl chloride, which does not emit toxic substances and is perfect for indoor use. This is a thin, 8-10 mm thick, and rather fragile material that has a different texture and a wide range of colors.

Thanks to plastic ceiling panels, you can implement design solutions of any complexity. Stack plastic in any direction, creating unique images. The design allows you to embed lighting elements.

Ceiling panel properties:

Due to its design features, plastic panels have good durability. They consist of two main strips: front and working, between which stiffening ribs are laid. This creates the effect of a honeycomb structure, which contains an air gap in its cavity.
They have heat-shielding properties.
They work as a sound insulator.
They don't burn.
Full waterproof.
Withstands major leaks even at the joints.
Have a long service life(more than 10 years).
Do not fade when exposed to sunlight.

Production technology:

First, a mixture of polyvinyl chloride is prepared and additional additives that make the material smooth, durable and designed for a certain temperature range.
The solution is immersed in the extruder, after exiting from which even strips of plastic are obtained.
After cooling, they are cut into a length of 2, 5, 6 meters.
Quality control is carried out.
The surface of the plastic is covered with special films different colors, or spraying is applied, imitating wood, metal, three-dimensional patterns.
In conclusion, the material is covered with a protective layer.

Since the material has excellent performance, it is used for finishing bathrooms, toilets, bedrooms, hallways, offices, swimming pools. Also, as a result of high frost resistance, PVC material can be used on loggias, balconies, garages, basements.

Often, there are huge shopping centers with plastic ceilings. Lightness and cheapness make plastic simply indispensable.

Kinds

Plastic for the ceiling is distinguished by appearance:

Glossy- visually increase the space, but create glare.
Matte- absorb light, reducing .

Connection method:

Suture- fastened with a visible lock and create a three-dimensional look.
Seamless- when joined, they do not form a pronounced separation.

By type of performance:

leafy– Attached only to perfectly flat surfaces.
in the form of a tile- allow you to create complex ornaments.
typesetting stripes- the most popular and easy to install.

Among the variety of PVC panels, it is important not to confuse the ceiling and wall options. Ceiling ones are lighter and more fragile, which requires careful handling.

Take a three-meter sheet in your hands and try to lift it, this is quite simple to do. Wall, on the contrary, have a more tangible weight and bend less with a large length. If you press your finger on the ceiling panel, it will easily succumb. Wall have wider stiffeners.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among craftsmen and consumers, plastic was able to gain indestructible authority, given the main advantages of this material:

Installation only takes a few hours depending on the square of the ceiling.
Externally, the product looks aesthetically pleasing and very modern.
Plastic helps to make the surface perfectly flat without any additional measures.
Cavity behind suspended structure Allows for easy wiring.
You can easily insulate the ceiling. This applies not only to bedrooms and offices, but also to bathrooms with high humidity. When laying a mineral bath, lay a layer of vapor barrier, this will protect the heat-insulating material from getting wet and mold.
Designed for significant fluctuations temperatures.
Do not crack with time.
Easy care. You can wash the ceiling with ordinary glass mops. Since the surface is perfectly flat, dirt is removed even without the use of special detergents.
Do not ignite.
Do not turn yellow over time, however, it is better not to smoke in a room with plastic ceiling panels, as tobacco smoke tends to be absorbed, forming characteristic stains.
Environmentally friendly and have no foreign smell. Even when melted, they do not emit harmful substances.
Hides all communication pipes.

Despite all the advantages, plastic panels have their drawbacks:

Limited forms, therefore, it is simply impossible to make a multi-level ceiling out of plastic.
Due to the visible seams between the panels, significantly loses in appearance.
start to warp at temperatures over 60 degrees.

How to choose?

Choosing ceiling panels is quite simple.

You need to take into account several nuances:

Opt for seamless styles. Checking their ownership is very simple. Sew the two strips together, or ask the salespeople to do it for you to see what the seam looks like. It should be barely noticeable, since without fastening to the profiles it is impossible to achieve the ideal. There will be no visible joints on the ceiling.
For residential premises do not buy goods made in China, as they break very easily during installation. They can be installed where aesthetics will be in second place, and there is a need to save money.
trace so that the surface is even without obvious drops and bumps.
In recent years, the material of domestic production has proven itself well.

Depending on the manufacturer and the length of the strips, the price of PVC panels also differs. The market value of a material 3 meters long on average ranges from 150 to 200 rubles.

If you need 6-meter strips, then you should prepare for a price of 270-320 rubles. First of all, pay attention to the quality and color scheme, and then look at the price. There are times when cheap material is made no less soundly than its expensive counterparts. Then it makes no sense to overpay. They will last the same amount of time.

First of all, to calculate the amount of material, you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling by multiplying the lengths of the sides together.
Secondly, divide the result by the area of one panel. As a rule, these data are indicated on the packaging. However, if you have not visited the store yet, but you know that you will buy 3-meter strips with a width of 250 mm, then their area will be 0.75 square meters. In the case of 6 meters - 1.5 square meters.
Thirdly, add 15% to the resulting value for cuts, rounding the final number to a higher value. This will give you the number of lanes you need.

How to fix?

Ceiling plastic is mounted on a pre-assembled structure made of a durable metal profile. Also, it is possible to use a wooden frame, however, this option is not suitable for the bathroom and other rooms with high humidity.

If you correctly install the base, then further installation will go quickly and without unnecessary debris.

Required materials and tools:

plastic panels;
profile UD;
profile CD;
starting L-profile for hiding the ends of the panels;
dowels and screws;
drill;
screwdriver;
level;
metal scissors;

Step by step installation instructions:

Step one. At the initial stage of installation of the ceiling system, a frame is created from galvanized profiles. To do this, the level is measured, and marks are made on the walls where it is necessary to fix the UD-27 profile. These will be the guides around the perimeter. It is worth noting that the step between the fasteners should not be less than 40 cm, the distance of 50 cm is considered optimal. The crossbars from the rails are made using the CD-60 profile with a step of 60 cm. .
Step two. A plastic L-profile is attached to the rails using self-tapping screws.
Step three. At this stage, all the necessary wires are laid.
Step four. We proceed to the installation of plastic panels, which we cut strictly along the length of the ceiling using metal scissors. We mount the first strip in the L-profile, carefully fixing it with self-tapping screws along the entire length. The following lanes are connected with a lock. In such situations, the starting profile serves as a hiding element, the ends of the panels go there.
Step five. The most important stage in the installation of the ceiling is the installation of the last strip. As a rule, it has to be cut. In such a situation, the principle “measure seven times - cut once” is, after all, by the way.

To make a plastic ceiling beautiful, you need to follow a few simple rules:

Seams between panels should be located parallel to a source of direct sunlight. This will help hide the junction.
When choosing plastic pay attention to its strength. Press down on the edge of the panel with two fingers. The deformation should be small.
Plastic should be able to bend well and at the same time not to break, so its fragility is checked.
Give preference to PVC panels with a large number of stiffeners. This will help create a strong structure.

NICHIHA FUGE - seamless facade panels - an innovative solution that is rapidly gaining popularity. He is preferred by buyers who highly value practicality and beauty.

seams on the facade

Facade cladding with Japanese facade panels involves connecting vertical seams between panels, which are necessary to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the material at high and low temperatures. This aspect can become critical for the buyer who prefers to choose a finish without visible structural junctions of the boards. Clients who want to decorate the facade of a building are often interested in one question...

HOW TO GET RID OF SEAMS OR HIDE THEM?

There are several methods by which you can hide the seams on the facade:

USE DECORATIVE STRIPS

Such elements close the seams and give the house an individual style. This option is easy to implement in the half-timbered style, in which the building takes on the appearance of an Alpine chalet.

decorative strips
Japanese cladding panels are attached with a gap that can be covered with decor

COMBINE FACADE PANELS IN DIFFERENT COLORS

In this case, designers try to place the seams at the transition point of dark and light colors. At the same time, the seams are not striking. Sealing is usually done in this case with silicone of a darker shade.

Effective façade design
The length of the sections of the slab of the same color
less than 3030 mm

APPLY VERTICAL STRIPS ON TEXTURE

To implement this method, NICHIHA EJB81 series facade panels for the house are perfect. This is a good option because the seams look harmonious and are part of the texture.

Design series NICHIKHA
The striped texture of the plates visually hides the gaps between them

USE FUGE FIBER CEMENT PANELS!

NICHIHA FUGE - innovative facade cladding!

NICHIHA has come up with an effective way to solve the problem of visible seams with a new range of panels. The name of the materials comes from the words Future Generation, which can be translated as "Future Generation". The leading manufacturer has developed a technology that is characterized by high aesthetic and performance properties. The material is intended for cladding of private houses and commercial buildings, it looks spectacular and reliably protects the facade from negative climatic influences.

Seamless facade panels for the house NICHIHA FUJE
mounted without seams, without sealant, look even more natural

You can learn more about NICHIHA FUGE seamless facade panels by reading the presentation from the manufacturer:

BENEFITS

The fundamental difference lies in the presence of a connecting lock on all 4 sides. A hermetic seal that protects against water ingress under the cladding is installed on the locking edges. Therefore, after assembly, the entire surface of the facade is airtight and does not require additional processing. The panels are connected horizontally and vertically tightly without gaps. Therefore, the finished surface of the facade looks natural without structural interference.

The panel length is 1820mm, not 3030mm. Due to this, thermal expansions do not exceed 1 mm per panel. Such minor shifts do not disturb the work of the facade and the overall aesthetics.

Of particular note is the improved Nano-Hydrophilic Protective Coating for longer color retention. The saturation of the colors of the facing layer is preserved without visible changes up to 20 years! Besides the covering effectively protects a surface from pollution which are easily removed by means of water. Thanks to the self-cleaning function, facade maintenance is minimal.

Characteristics

Material : cement, wood fiber reinforcement, additives
Painting : protective primer 2 layers, acrylic dye 2-4 layers, nano-hydrophilic coating 1 layer
Size: 16x455x1820 mm
Weight : 15.4-16.5kg / panel
Specific gravity: 18.6-19.9 kg / m 2
Fastening: clamp NICHIHA JE555, at the junction of panels - JEJ555

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling of plastic panels is usually made plain. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, you need to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, because the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same strips, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is even and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

When installing a false ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the strips or profiles first around the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light spread of 1 mm.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fix it on the screws (brackets). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with an ordinary drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done immediately, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. Having tried it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sags that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth to a shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for the dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

To date, the following types of plastic materials for the ceiling are presented on the construction market:

Seamless PVC panels. A material that has some resemblance to plastic lining. The main difference is a significant amount of plasticizers in the composition and features of the interlock. Planks are quite often used for finishing the ceiling and walls in bathrooms. The product is represented by a width in the range of 250-400 mm, a wide range of colors. It is possible to purchase a material with a glossy or matte surface, order a surface with a three-dimensional texture. The total thickness of the panel does not exceed 10 mm.

Plastic plank lining. The material of the product has a three-dimensional structure, reinforced with a longitudinal stiffener, which forms a sealed cavity. Manufacturers put on sale products with a total thickness of not more than 10 mm. The profile of plastic materials resembles tongue-and-groove wooden boards, which are used in the lining of wagons. In the manufacture, the minimum addition of softening additives is used. The product is painted mainly in several monochromatic shades. However, on the market there are panels of manufacturers who use the thermal printing method when staining, which gives the surface a certain shade or image. Clapboard is the most budget option for ceiling cladding.

Rack materials. Modern production allows the production of ceiling materials that mimic the appearance of slatted metal profiles. This type of product is used mainly in bathrooms and when facing it vaguely resembles an aluminum system. Rack panels are absolutely not exposed to moisture, and their strength deserves a high rating. The service life of the product is more than 20 years.

Acrylic ceiling panels. Recently, such products are gaining more and more popularity. Planks are perfect for when additional lighting is equipped. It is possible to apply a variety of images to the surface, which is a huge advantage when creating an exclusive interior. However, it is worth remembering that acrylic panels have increased electrification. When working with them, it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the interceiling space and complete isolation from dust.

How to install panels

Having bought plastic ceiling panels, it is time to stock up on the necessary tools:

A jigsaw is one of the main tools, without which it will be extremely difficult to install a ceiling from PVC panels.
Perforator / drill. In rooms with a drill, if the overlap was carried out with reinforced concrete slabs, then only a puncher will come in handy.
Screwdriver - will increase the speed of installation and greatly facilitate the process.
Mallet.
Level (meter, half meter). In the process, both will be needed, because measurements may be required in hard-to-reach places.
Roulette.
Ladder.
stapler.
Paint string.
Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head.

Having delivered all the tools and ceiling strips to the object where the installation will be carried out, you can begin to prepare the ceiling.

Surface preparation

You can’t do without cleaning the ceiling if there is even the slightest hint of the presence of fungus or rust. This, on the one hand, an insignificant trifle, can lead in the near future to violations of the integrity of the structure.

The surface of the ceiling should be evenly treated with specialized tools. It is also worth getting rid of crumbling layers of whitewash. Next, you need to do the marking of the surface.

A straight line should be drawn around the perimeter of the room, placing it approximately 7–10 cm below the ceiling. In order to simplify the marking process, experts recommend marking the line at the corners of the room with a level and then pulling the masking cord between the corners.

Mounting options

When fixing plastic ceiling materials, the following installation methods can be distinguished:

Wireframe method- Reliability stands out.
Frameless method- The main advantage of this method is the ease of installation.

crate

The crate is recommended to be made of a plastic profile, which can be purchased at any hardware store. However, it should be borne in mind that this material requires the most even base of the ceiling. Therefore, before the time-consuming process of lathing, it is worth bringing the ceiling surface into perfect condition, removing all irregularities.

All parts of the plastic frame are equipped with clips and a clasp. In the process of connection, a fastening is formed that resembles the appearance of a castle. Around the entire perimeter of the room, it is necessary to install the main part of the frame. Then we fix the guide elements.

Very important! The transverse parts of the frame should be perpendicular to the plastic panels. If this rule is ignored, then during the assembly process there will be a mismatch of the fasteners and you will have to dismantle.

The process of lathing using a plastic profile is quite simple thanks to the mechanisms of latches and clips. Even a beginner can cope with such work without effort.

A more reliable crate is made using a metal profile. The work is carried out in stages:

According to the horizontal marking, it is necessary to install the guide profile. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or dowels.
The profile is attached to the mounted rail around the entire perimeter of the room. To avoid sagging of the material, it is recommended to fix the profile, placed perpendicularly, at a distance of 50 - 55 cm from each other.
The profile is attached to the ceiling with hangers, which can be purchased at any hardware store.
The cut edge of the guide profile looks extremely unaesthetic, therefore to give a beautiful look, you should use specialized corners for decoration.

They should be fixed before mounting the ceiling panels.

Panel mounting

Frame method. Before attaching the slats, make sure that the frame is securely fastened. The slats should never move when exposed to them.

Installation is carried out in the following order:

Make markings for the location of the screws on each plastic panel. Leave a distance between them in the range of 25 - 30 cm.
We begin fastening the material to the frame from the edge of the wall. It is desirable that an assistant be present during work, who will hold the material from the opposite side. When mounting subsequent strips, it is necessary to press them as close as possible to each other.
Having fixed the penultimate bar, you should measure the distance from it to the wall. It often happens that the distance is much less than the width of the material. Then you need to cut the plastic panel to the desired size. Under no circumstances should you rush. It is better to do everything as accurately and accurately as possible.
Having installed all the panels, you should fix the ceiling plinth. Plastic products are fixed with screws, and foam skirting boards are glued.

Frameless method. There are situations when, for some reason, it is not possible to use the frame mounting method. Then a frameless method will come to the rescue, in which specialized glue or liquid nails are used.

When choosing a similar mounting method, do not forget that in the future the ceiling cannot be used for a heavy chandelier.

Work materials

Liquid Nails.
Construction knife.
Level.
The spatula is double-sided.

Let's start installation:

We apply the adhesive base to the panel with a spatula (smooth side). If a lot of glue has got on the surface, then you can remove the excess with the same spatula, only with the ribbed side.
Firmly press the plastic material to the surface of the ceiling. You need to do everything very quickly so that the glue does not harden.
Thus, all panels are installed. Particular attention should be paid to the first and last bar. They should be pressed for quite a long time compared to internal plastic materials.
We fix the ceiling skirting boards.

Frameless installation is quite simple in execution, does not require any special knowledge and skills. Experts recommend not to open the windows during the fastening of the planks, so as not to provoke the material to peel off. You can ventilate the room after 24 hours.

Features of mounting panels in rooms with high humidity

In rooms where high humidity prevails, it has its own characteristics in the crate. In the manufacture of the frame, only metal or plastic mounting profiles can be used. The slats will be attached to the rails using specialized clips.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that with changes in temperature, the material may expand. Therefore, adjusting the slats in height, it is necessary to leave a slight gap. When using a wide beam in the crate, it is recommended to place a heater in the resulting space between the panel and the wall.

Price

An important advantage of plastic ceiling slats is their relatively low cost.

Hardware stores offer a set of plastic plain panels at a price of 3,100 rubles. These are the simplest planks of standard sizes (1.7 * 1.7). If you plan to purchase a material with an image printed on the surface, then you need to be prepared for higher costs. One set can be purchased at a cost of 5,000 rubles and much higher.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic ceiling materials

Advantages:

Plastic strips - a fairly quick option for finishing the ceiling.
Low cost.
Installation is quite simple and accessible even to a beginner.
Moisture resistance.
Soundproofing of the room.
Aesthetic appearance.
Ease of product maintenance.

Like any other product, PVC ceiling materials have a number of disadvantages:

Reducing the height of the room.
Low strength.
Blocking direct access to electrical wires.

When laying the panel, do not knock on it. In such a case, the configuration of the edge of the product is violated, which makes it difficult for the materials to fit to each other as much as possible.
Measure each plank and cut separately if necessary.
Never fully tighten the screws. In hot weather, the panels will be able to expand without being damaged.
To achieve the ideal result, it is necessary to carry out the installation strictly in stages without rushing.

Ceiling repair is a complicated matter, but there is a way in which a flat surface above your head appears quickly, without much difficulty. The selected material is fixed on the rack frame, suspended. Plastic panels are great for false ceiling installation.

What are plastic panels for the ceiling

The ceiling of plastic panels is mounted in shops, offices, hospitals. This type of decoration is also used in apartment renovations. PVC strips are successfully used for bathroom, toilet, hallway, kitchen. Some types of plastic can be used in living rooms: they fit well into a modern interior, combined with lamps of any design, combined with other materials.

According to the type of connection, ceiling plastic can be seamless or suture (lining). The junction of two seamless strips is thin, barely noticeable. The plane is smooth, as if monolithic. The lining forms a pattern of alternating wide and narrow strips, resembling a lining with a wooden lath. It is of two types: European, Polish. The seam panels differ in the width of the “lock” at the junction; in the polka it is narrower, less noticeable.

PVC panels are produced in different sizes. So, a standard lining has 10 centimeters wide and 6 or 3 meters long. Seamless wider - from 15 to 50 cm. Their length - 2.6; 2.8; 3 less often - 6 meters, and the thickness of the plastic - from half a centimeter to a centimeter. In addition to products made in the form of strips, there are PVC plates and sheets. The first are small square blanks for a frame false ceiling (for example, the Armstrong type), and the second are wide rectangular plates with a seamless connection.

What are the advantages of plastic panels on the ceiling

Plastic panel ceilings have many advantages. PVC products are produced in different colors, from snow-white to bright, multi-colored, covered with a metallic sheen, ornaments, and patterns. Plastic retains its perfect appearance for a long time, it is easy to care for. Other advantages of this material become apparent during installation:

installation is extremely simple, everyone can handle it;
it is light, you can work with it without an assistant;
electrical wiring is hidden under it, no need to ditch concrete slabs;
well combined with each other and with other materials;
from it you can create two-level ceilings;
accepts recessed fixtures;
if necessary, it can be easily dismantled and mounted again;
it is possible to lay insulation over plastic.

What is the difference between PVC ceiling panels and wall panels

Ceiling plastic panels are thinner and lighter than wall panels, but plastic designed for wall cladding will feel fine above your head if the frame of the structure is of high quality. Only PVC sheets are categorically not suitable for this, they are heavy and should be used in vertical structures. Wall strips up to 50 cm wide can be mounted on the ceiling.

How to calculate PVC ceiling panels

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling will be successful if you calculate the required amount of material in advance. It is more convenient to count not in square meters, but in units of goods. Count the number of strips needed to cover the entire space. To do this, the length of the wall is divided by the width of the panel. The starting strip and the ceiling plinth are bought in an amount equal to the length of the perimeter of the room.

In addition to plastic, you need to purchase material for the hanging frame. In dry rooms, a wooden beam is used, in the kitchen and bathroom - a galvanized profile. They are attached around the perimeter of the room and to the ceiling, perpendicular to the direction of future ceilings, at a distance of about half a meter from each other. Draw a diagram and calculate how many frame strips you need. Multiply this number by the length of the room to find out the footage of a beam or CD profile. The perimeter of the metal version of the base is equal to the length of the UD profile.

How to choose a PVC panel ceiling

What to look for when choosing a material for the ceiling? First of all, on the appearance and the desired color. If you want plastic that goes with any design, choose white. Plastic sheathing is matte and glossy. In large rooms, gloss looks worse than in small ones. When buying material, compare the color of each stripe. Products from different batches, even if they are of the same model, may differ markedly in shade.

Measure the length of the panels to the width of your room. There will be less waste if the strips are slightly longer than necessary. It is dangerous to buy plastic without a margin of length at all: if the room is 2.7 m wide, it is better to take 2.8 m ceilings. It is advisable to buy one more strip of plastic than necessary. PVC is a fragile material, and no craftsman is immune from accidents.

Mounting

Before attaching plastic panels to the ceiling, prepare everything you need for work. You will need materials:

wooden beam 20 by 30 mm or CD and UD profile;
U-shaped fasteners;
dowels and screws:
starting lanes;
strips for connection, external, internal corners (for multi-level ceilings);
PVC panels;
ceiling plinth and special glue for it.

And tools:

laser level (can be water);
hacksaw, grinder or metal scissors;
construction knife;
perforator;
screwdriver or stapler.

A suspended ceiling made of PVC panels with their own hands begins to be made from the base - the frame on which it will hold. Using a level on the walls, draw the outline of the structure. A bar or UD profile is fixed above the line along the entire length of the perimeter. Parallel to the long wall, every half a meter or a little more hang a beam, a CD profile. All parts of the frame are at the same height. Use a level to control. You can hang the base on special U-shaped fasteners using dowels or self-tapping screws.

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