Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors from scratch. Installation of interior doors, basic rules. Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

The market offers a wide range of different doors. But sometimes it is difficult to choose a model that fully meets the needs of the owner. There are enough reasons - a significant difference in dimensions (block / opening), poor product quality, unsuccessful external design, high cost, and so on. For a person who is on “you” with a household tool, making interior doors with your own hands is not a problem. In many cases, this solution is the most rational.

Preparation stage

Do-it-yourself design, assembly of something requires a thorough analysis of many factors and the choice of the most appropriate option.

Material

Given the organization of production at home, the best option is wooden doors. On sale there are interior models made of different materials - plastics, glass, aluminum - but working with them requires not only experience, but also a special tool. In addition, wood has an undeniable advantage - it is able to "breathe", which has a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house.

Engineering solution

Interior doors are divided into several types - hinged, folding, sliding (compartment). Models also differ in design - single-leaf, "two", "one and a half". Some of them have an upper extension - a transom. What would you like to focus on? Without professional skills, special tools, machine equipment, it is worth choosing a hinged interior door with one leaf.

These are the most popular varieties installed inside apartments and private houses. If you study step-by-step instructions for designing doors of all types, then it is the swing "odnushki" that are easier to manufacture. In addition, the preparation of the opening for their installation does not require complex technological operations.

Canvas type

  • Paneled. The advantage of interior doors of this category is their relatively low weight. The canvases consist of a wooden frame and inserts that differ in size, material, and shape. The difficulty is that the panels will have to be fixed on it, and for this you need to select quarters in the tree. Even with a professional tool (equipment) at hand, the independent production of interior doors of this variety (if we mean quality) is a big question. To achieve the proper result, you will have to spend a lot of time and material, the consumption of which will turn out to be significant, as the volume of rejection will increase.

  • Shield. This solution is optimal. The only downside is the weight. But this problem is also solved if you choose boards of small thickness. Since we are talking about interior doors, and not about entrance doors, the strength of the canvas is not a paramount factor. But there are much more pluses: ease of assembly, the possibility of any finish (varnishing, tinting, brushing, cladding with plastic, decorative film, natural veneer - different design styles are practiced), high maintainability.

In addition, the door dampens noise well and is characterized by low thermal conductivity. There is another factor that is overlooked by many. Wood is prone to deformation (under the influence of changes in humidity, temperature in the house, it “plays”). A solid door is less susceptible to it than a paneled model, especially if the inserts are made of a different material. For example, glass, plastic.

lumber

  • The type of wood, if the subsequent finishing of the canvas and the box is planned, does not play a big role. You can partially save on this by choosing inexpensive products. But if it is decided to make a door from boards while maintaining their texture, then the answer to the question of what to buy is obvious.
  • The degree of drying of the tree. According to SNiP, lumber with a moisture content exceeding 22% cannot be used in construction. With regard to doors, experts advise focusing on 10 - 12. Wet wood will shrink, and the structure will "lead". If the samples are thoroughly dried, then, firstly, they will cost more, and secondly, there will be difficulties with their cutting. In addition, excessively dry wood easily splits, and this will cause problems with fastening fittings, inserting locking devices.

Varieties and dimensions

  • Frame. A beam with a side of 40 - 50 mm is enough for the frame of the canvas. It is necessary to take into account the installation location of the door, that is, how intensively it will be used. Plus - the specifics of the room at the entrance to which it is mounted; Is it supposed to equip the door with a lock, if so, what type. The latter fully applies to canopies.
  • Canvas. To reduce the weight of the interior door and facilitate the manufacturing process, it is advisable to use MDF for sheathing the frame. Another argument in favor of this solution is that the board material (if it is of high quality, carefully processed) is inert to humidity and temperature. If you want to make a solid wood door, boards of 10 with a width of 150 are suitable.
  • Box The old joint is rarely left in place. If a new door is being assembled, then completely, in the kit. When choosing a beam, you need to take into account the thickness of the wall (partition) at the installation site. There is no other recommendation, except for the sufficient strength of the jamb, on this point.

The choice of material is largely determined by the drawing of the door. The canvas of the interior door is made in different ways; it can be solid, hollow or "cellular". The last option is called small-hollow.

door scheme

  • Dimensions. The initial data for calculations is the size of the opening. For the accuracy of calculations, its width is measured at 3 levels; similarly with height - at three points (on the sides and center). It should be borne in mind that a technological gap of 4 ± 1 mm is left between it and the box around the perimeter. This is the outer contour of the jamb. Provided that the width of the canvas is of decisive importance, then everything else is calculated based on its required dimensions. In this case, the gap between it and the jamb (within 1 mm) is also taken into account.

In practice, it is difficult to make wooden doors with your own hands, without work experience, in strict accordance with the indicated values, but it is advisable to adhere to just such values. And most importantly - the correct shape (rectangle) of the door box. The slightest distortions, distortions - and problems with a snug fit of the canvas are provided.

  • The direction of plowing the canvas. When determining it, the location of the opening in the room is taken into account; The pictures illustrate this well.

Manufacturing procedure

The assembly of the interior door is carried out according to different methods. But if the meaning of all operations is clear, then it is not difficult to develop your own technology.

box

It is quite simple with him - to assemble a rectangular structure, and only then place it in the opening. But installation is recommended only after the manufacture of the canvas. This makes it easier to mark the attachment points of the canopies and the latch (lock). Doing this on a jamb already mounted in the opening is much more difficult. In addition, it is necessary to make a selection of grooves under the door. And therefore, after the box is shot down, it has yet to be returned to.

canvas

It all depends on its chosen scheme, and therefore where to start - from strapping or cutting MDF boards, is decided based on the drawing of the door.

Frame manufacturing

The technology is simple - a rectangular shape is assembled according to the size of the sash. But with its filling there are options.

  • Stiffening ribs are installed in the form of vertical racks. Such a decision is advisable if the frame is planned to be sheathed with MDF, plywood - the strength of the coating will be ensured.

  • One horizontal jumper in the center. A good solution for insulating an interior door. For example, installed in the passage leading to a cold room (utility room). The canvas is filled with expanded polystyrene, and its plates around the perimeter are foamed.

  • Leave one frame without additional elements (shallow-hollow design). How to fill it and whether to do it is decided depending on the specifics of the room. But this version of the frame is only suitable for interior doors that are sheathed with a board. Otherwise, strength is out of the question.

Fabric making

  • Its dimensions are known; it remains only to cut the MDF into 2 - 3 fragments, according to the drawn up drawing.
  • The second stage is the assembly of the harness. That is, the frame is assembled on an already finished canvas.

Advice. To facilitate the work, it is recommended to mark all blanks. On individual samples (according to the scheme), cuts, cuts, and drillings are preliminarily made to install door hardware elements. This is much easier than doing such work on an assembled overall structure. The difficulty is that the markup must be extremely accurate.

Door processing

  • It is advisable to use an antiseptic again. Since samples of material, drilling were made, individual sections can be “bare”. The secondary use of the composition from rot eliminates this drawback.
  • Surface finish. The options are marked: stain, varnish, veneer, film - depending on the design intent.

Preparing for installation

At this stage, latches, eyes, handles and hinges are installed on the canvas. A box is placed in the opening, leveled and securely fixed.

All that remains is to hang the door, align the second half of the canopy with the mounting holes and secure with self-tapping screws (included).

"Finishing chord" - checking the correct operation of the canvas, tightness, absence of distortions; if deficiencies are identified, eliminate them. All further activities - insulation of the opening, installation of platbands, decorative design - are a slightly different topic.

Making an interior door at home is quite realistic. Success largely depends on proper work planning, the choice of the optimal design scheme and your own diligence. And the quality is ensured by a good tool, the purchase of which is not worth sparing money.

Do-it-yourself interior door installation is carried out in strict sequence, every moment, even the smallest one, is important. If you make a minor oversight, this will result in major problems during the further operation of the building. The main condition for installation is a perfectly even position vertically and horizontally.

Only if these parameters are observed will the normal opening and closing of the doors be ensured. Step-by-step instructions for installing interior doors will help you cope with the work. The first thing you need to pay attention to is the installation of the door frame.

Complete sets of interior structures

Installation of interior doors is carried out after finishing the ceiling and walls. At the installation stage, it is necessary to have a subfloor and a finishing coating. Installation of skirting boards is carried out after the installation of doors. Door set:

  1. Canvas without box and lumber. In this case, everything is purchased separately. Lumber is bought, planks are cut to fit the doorway and the corners are sawn. In the case of using a standard box, a canvas of the same size is used. Before buying, it is necessary to take all measurements so that you do not have to modify the elements. In this case, the installation of interior doors with your own hands will be the most budgetary.
  2. Box and canvas. In this case, both elements will fit together, you just need to buy lumber, make planks and assemble the structure. It may be necessary to install extensions on interior doors. This point needs to be considered in advance.
  3. Assembled block. All components are assembled and adjusted, it remains only to install the block in the opening, set it to the level and fix it.

If you know how to install an interior door with your own hands, then you can purchase any kit. For beginners, the latter is suitable, since it is the easiest to install. For more experienced craftsmen, the first one is best, it is also the most economical. Such structures are not subject to additional adjustment.

Door frame dimensions

Each country has its own standards, they differ and sometimes significantly. Width of swing doors according to standards in Russia:

  • 600 mm;
  • 700 mm;
  • 800 mm;
  • 900 mm.

The same standards are in some European countries (in Spain, Italy). The French differ by 1 cm (690, 790, 890 mm). The choice of standard depends on the owner, but it is best to use Russian ones, since they have a clear advantage - a wider choice.

If you happened to buy non-standard doors, then it will be difficult to change them later. According to GOST, the width of the opening and the door leaf installed in it depends on the room in which the installation is carried out:

  1. For the kitchen, the height should be 2000 mm, width 700 mm.
  2. In the bathroom, the height is 1900-2000 mm, the width is not less than 600 mm.
  3. For residential premises, the width of the opening is 600-1200 mm, the height is 2000 mm.

But these are standards, in reality it happens that you need to adapt to a certain building. Sometimes it is better to give preference to a sliding door. To determine the dimensions of the box and canvas, you will need to measure the opening. After that, the dimensions of the block are selected. The size should be slightly smaller so that it is possible to mount fasteners and spacers. It is necessary to take into account these parameters before installing the interior door yourself.

At the stage of measurements, it is necessary to carefully examine the walls, if necessary, carry out repairs and strengthening. In this case, the door frame will be much better able to stay in the opening. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the walls if you plan to install heavy doors. It is necessary to attach a wooden beam to the wall and plaster it, if possible. This approach will allow you to install interior doors without much difficulty in any opening. The thickness of the bar should be 5 cm. After such an improvement, installing the door frame with your own hands will be much easier, and the reliability of the structure increases.

Everyone can independently install doors from scratch with their own hands, if they understand the nuances and design parameters. One important parameter of the boxes is the depth. According to GOST, the standard is 70-80 mm, but if the wall thickness in the house exceeds this indicator (and this is in most cases), then you need to cheat. Installation of a door frame without a threshold is carried out flush with one wall, but on the condition that the slopes and the opening will not interfere with opening. The rest of the wall is plastered and finished like the walls in a room. But you can do it with extensions: a plank is mounted to match the canvas and trim. How to assemble the platbands, you can learn from the instructions for them.

Assembly of door frames

How to put the interior door correctly? The horizontal bar is the lintel, the vertical ones are the jambs (racks). These are the main elements of door frames. If you bought them separately, then you need to assemble them together. To do this, oilcloth, paper, cardboard are spread on the floor, lay out the planks. All elements are connected.

If the box and canvas are purchased as a set, then the dimensions will all match. In most cases, installation of an interior door threshold is not required. But you need to double-check so that you do not have to start all the work again. All elements are laid on the floor of the box, there is a canvas between them, the correct installation of interior doors must be done in this way.

Ideally, there should be the same gap around the entire perimeter of the canvas - about 3-4 mm. With such a gap, the normal opening and closing of the doors will be ensured. Similar requirements for double-leaf interior doors.

A separate story is height adjustment, regardless of whether you are installing doors in an apartment or in a bathhouse. The jambs of the box are 12-15 cm larger than the canvas. For proper installation, the racks rest against the logs. But during construction, such an installation is used extremely rarely, so the door jambs are shortened to the required size. Installation of the interior door frame is carried out using self-tapping screws.

But be sure to make a hole with a thin drill before screwing in the fastener. In case the planks are sawn at 45°, it is necessary to drill holes on the side plank. Then apply it to a horizontal bar and fix it with self-tapping screws. Similarly, do the installation of doors in the bath with your own hands. You just need to pay attention to the material - wood must withstand high temperatures and humidity.

And how to install an interior door yourself, if the edges are cut at a right angle in the box? In this case, the whole work is much simpler. But you still need to drill holes, especially if the box is made of MDF. Attach the top to the side beam, align the edges and make two holes.

In the upper beam through, in the side hole in the butt. After that, connect the strips, get a box. During construction, the lower bar is used extremely rarely. Make sure that the assembled box exceeds the dimensions of the canvas in length and width by 3-4 mm. Builders prefer a door frame without a threshold, so the racks have to be cut a little. When installing interior doors without a threshold, there are small advantages.

Quite often it happens that the shoals are larger than necessary. Measure the height of the opening, subtract 2 cm (for filling with mounting foam). This value will be the height of the box. Take measurements from all sides, set aside the values ​​​​on the assembled structure and draw a line along which the cut will be made. The excess is cut off. The installation of interior doors with an extension is not much different. The differences are only in the details, which appear in a few moments.

Loop selection

Before buying accessories, be sure to decide which type you need - left or right. Stand near the opening in which you plan to install (the canvas should open on you). This condition is mandatory, try not to confuse the parties. Open yourself up and see where the movement is going - to the left or to the right. If to the left, then left loops are needed.

If the loops are right, then the canvas should open to the right. Try not to confuse the hinges, mark the places for their installation. Keep in mind that in some cases it may be necessary to remove the canvas (to remove furniture), so you need to be sure that this procedure will be painless and quick. Installing hinges on a door is a matter that requires special care, as a slight deviation can cost the canvas to be crooked.

When installing wooden doors, you need to outline the contour of the hinges and remove the layer with a sharp knife. Pay attention to the thickness of the loops. To make it convenient to make a cut, you need to make a vertical cut along the contour. If you make only horizontal, then the extra sections of wood will not separate well. The cut is performed either with a chisel or a special machine. Do the same with the door leaf. But sometimes a chisel cannot beautifully design a cutout. If the canopy falls on a knot, it is necessary to shift to the side. Installing the doors yourself will not cause difficulties, but this work is painstaking. Now you need to consider how the canopies are placed.

Insert hinges

Separately, you need to consider how the door hinges are installed. The requirements for them are not very serious, it is enough to withstand a distance of 19 cm from the edges. You need to know how to assemble an interior door with your own hands and what tools you will need for this.

To install or dismantle the hinges, you will need the following set of tools:

  1. Drills with a diameter of 1-4 mm.
  2. Drill and screwdriver.
  3. Cutter.
  4. Awl.

For MDF doors, 2 hinges are enough, as they are light. For heavy ones, you need to put 3 loops - an additional one in the middle. All hinges, regardless of type and price, consist of 2 parts. One half of them has a pin. Important condition: install in such a way that this pin is directed upwards. It will be wrong if it turns out to be directed downwards.

Inserting hinges and door locks is best done directly on the floor, prior to installation. Hardware fasteners are made after marking and cutting. Attach a loop, mark the contour and make notches with a chisel. Fasten the hardware first on the jamb, then lay the canvas and mark the position of the second part of the loop on it.

The installation of interior doors in a wooden house is simplified due to the fact that fasteners can even be made with nails. All recesses are made with a milling cutter in a matter of minutes, but in the absence of such a tool, chisels can also be used. When closing the hinges provide a gap of 4 mm. The installation of laminated doors is practically no different from the installation of wooden ones, there are only minor differences.

Final assembly of the box

In practice, it turns out that the assembly and installation of interior doors is a painstaking task. Racks and lintels are in the shape of the letter "P", install the assembled structure in the opening. Using the level, set the entire structure to zero. Achieve maximum evenness horizontally and vertically. Fix the position of the box with spacers and wedges, punch the level from time to time. Be sure to ensure that the jambs are parallel to each other, blockage in any direction should be avoided. The ease of use of the doors in the future depends on evenness.

After checking all the installation parameters, fix the box in the opening with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. The distance between adjacent fasteners should be 0.25-0.3 m. There should be approximately 2-3 fasteners on the lintel, 7-8 pieces on jambs. In the box, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 4 mm, since the caps of self-tapping screws are usually 1-2 mm larger. If you installed a beam between the box and the wall, installation is much easier. Making interior doors in this case is simple, since the fasteners are more reliable.

If the walls are made of shell, brick or block, then installation is more difficult - you need to install dowel-nails. Please note that they must be in bricks and not in seams. Putting doors on the seams is not recommended. With a 4 mm drill, make a hole in the racks, leave a mark on the wall. Having finished marking all the holes, dismantle the box and check if it hit correctly. In order not to fall into the seams, pay attention to the open areas of the masonry, make marks on the planks. Only after making sure of the accuracy, make holes for the dowel-nails. This is how they do the installation of wooden doors with their own hands. The installation of plastic structures is done in the same way, only it is easier to work with them - all elements are fitted as accurately as possible.

Do-it-yourself doorway installation is done in the same order, so the manual can be used for this case as well. After you expose the box and make sure that the holes in it coincide with the dowels. Set the position horizontally and vertically, fix it with wedges and spacers, only after that fasten the box to the wall. It is not necessary to pull too hard, as this can damage the wood or bend the jamb. Since the canopies were installed in advance, further installation of the canvas will not cause difficulties.

Installing front doors with your own hands will significantly reduce the cost of work.

Foaming gaps

After the final fixation, you put cardboard between the jamb and the canvas, you need to install it on the foam. Close the door and install spacers and wedges to keep the box from arching. Fill the gaps between the wall and the box by 1/3 with foam, as the volume increases during the drying process. If there is too much foam, then it will bend the slats. Leave for a day to dry.

After you remove the spacers, cut off the excess foam with a sharp knife and proceed to further work - installing the trim or trim on the interior doors. A layer of putty can be applied to the foam and covered with decorative elements. Do-it-yourself installation of interior door platbands will not cause difficulties even for an inexperienced master who has encountered such a procedure for the first time. Proper installation of doors is the key to a long service life of the product.

The use of fasteners and the subtlety of the tie-in

Self-tapping screws are sold along with door hinges. It is with their help that fastening is made. Before screwing them in, you need to make thin holes in the wood. This will prevent the wood from splitting while screwing in. Fittings are secret, their installation is a little more difficult - it is necessary to make deeper mounting holes. The hole is best cut with a milling machine. Decide in advance whether you need to install the addition of interior doors; everyone can do it with their own hands.

When screwing in the screws, make sure that the loops do not go to the side, align if necessary. With the correct insertion of the loops, they will be located on the same level. If there is at least a slight bulge, you need to deepen the area under the loop to the required level. Using a ruler, check if the canopy is planted correctly.

Press the ruler to the loop and evaluate the position. If it protrudes strongly, then there will be too much gap between the door leaf and the frame. When the doors are set correctly, normal opening through an angle of 180 ° is ensured. In this case, the maximum load on the hinges should not exceed 50 kg. Next, insert the parts of the loops by lifting the canvas. This will allow you to determine as accurately as possible the point at which both canopies will be combined.

When choosing canopies, it is best to stay hidden. They look much better, and the fastening rules are the same. After installation, be sure to check the smoothness of the movement by interlocking the latch on the jamb and the striker plate. If necessary, move the latch. This is required if there is extraneous noise when closing the door. The metal tab should be adjusted a little, and the noise will disappear. In general, the installation of hinges on interior doors is quite simple, there should not be any difficulties. It is enough to act strictly according to the instructions and use the recommendations.

Advantages and disadvantages of sliding interior doors

Do-it-yourself sliding door installation is quite simple and does not require significant costs, and the design is much more attractive than conventional swing doors. In total, there are 2 types of interior doors design:

  1. Swing, the installation of which is discussed above, are attached to the box using movable canopies. This is a traditional option, the range of models on the market is very wide, the view is rich, but one drawback is that they take up a lot of space. Installing plastic doors with your own hands will not take much time, but it will be problematic to use them in a small room: they need a lot of space when opening.
  2. Sliding ones are much more convenient, since with their help the space of the room is used more rationally. And installing sliding interior doors with your own hands will not take much time, if you carefully study the features of the work.

In turn, sliding doors are divided into 2 types:

  1. Sliding doors built into the wall slide into it and are recessed. The design has a mechanism that allows you to move the door parallel to the wall. Rollers are mounted on the canvas, guides are mounted on the opening or on top of it. The rollers move along the guides, the opening is freed for passage.
  2. A good option would be to install an accordion door with your own hands. Structurally, they are made of plastic or wooden lamellae. Moving, they fold and release the opening. But one drawback - cheap products are extremely uncomfortable and impractical. Therefore, if the choice fell on such a design, then it is better to purchase an expensive and high-quality product.

Regardless of the design, all sliding doors have the following advantages:

  1. Non-standard and unusual, very original appearance.
  2. There are no dead zones, they do not interfere with the arrangement of furniture in the rooms.
  3. Complete safety, as there is no risk of hitting the corner of the door. But it is worth making sure that children do not stick their fingers between the door and the wall.
  4. A huge plus is that they do not open with drafts.
  5. Installing an interior door threshold is not required in most cases, only if you need to cover the guide at the bottom, a threshold is set.

But there are also significant disadvantages:

  1. The prices for installing a sliding door from the masters are simply sky-high. But if you do all the work yourself, you can reduce costs. Do-it-yourself installation of interior compartment doors will minimize costs and equalize them with the cost of installing swing doors.
  2. Low degree of isolation. It is necessary to install a felt gasket on the end of the door. This is the only way to get rid of the penetration of foreign smells, sounds, light into the room.
  3. The pencil case into which the door goes is quite difficult to care for. But if you manage, you can do the job with a vacuum cleaner. When installing cashiers that cover the holes, this is problematic.
  4. Repair of this design is quite complicated, therefore, when buying, be sure to take a few videos in reserve. Installation implies that elements that are rarely found on sale will be used. Sometimes people who install such structures begin repairs after a few years and do not find spare parts in stores. We have to redo the mechanism.

Sliding door components

The main difference between sliding and swing structures is the mechanism of their functioning (rollers or canopies). Sliding interior doors can be equipped with the following mechanisms:

  1. Intra-wall, which allow you to remove the door leaf inside the wall. But there is one caveat: the system must be started at the time of the construction of the walls, since they will need to leave voids. In this case, the thickness of the wall will be greater. Due to this, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will become a little smaller, but the walls will be freed.
  2. External, which can be mounted at any time, no restructuring of the walls is required. In this design, the canvas moves parallel to the wall. A small drawback: you will need to clear a small distance from the walls.

Guides are one of the important structural elements, skids along which the door leaf moves on rollers. They are placed above, below, or on both sides. The sale and installation of such elements is carried out by stores, but it is better to do the installation yourself. Features of the location options:

  1. Only top guides are used - the most common way. It is used only if the weight of the door leaf is low. The advantage is that the risk of breaking the guides is extremely low and the service life is high.
  2. If only the lower guides are used, then during operation there is a high risk of damaging them. It is extremely difficult to achieve smoothness of the door without an upper support, and the constant clogging of the skids will make itself felt.
  3. Combined designs are assembled when using doors of large mass, or to improve smoothness.

Preparation for installation of sliding doors

Since the most popular type is the outdoor structure, it is worth focusing on it. Do-it-yourself door installation implies the following tools and materials:

  1. Door leaf, platbands, box.
  2. Accessories (rollers, guides, locks, handles).
  3. Bars measuring 50x30 mm for fastening guides.
  4. Hardware.
  5. Level, tape measure, ruler if necessary.
  6. Drill and screwdriver.
  7. Hacksaw.
  8. Chisels.

If the door weight exceeds 27 kg, 4 rollers must be used. For lighter structures, 2 is enough. To prevent deformation of the wall and damage to the wallpaper with handles and locks, use hidden doors cut into the canvas.

At the very beginning, you need to decide on the installation location and the opening side. If you plan to install 2 doors, consider how convenient it will be to use them. If necessary, the old door is removed, a new box is mounted. In living rooms, the gap should be maintained on the order of 10 mm. If there is no finished floor, then the laminate, screed, and leveling are taken into account.

  1. Measure the width and height of the sliding door. It is advisable to do this at several points (bottom, middle and top). The height of the door must be measured in the open and closed position.
  2. The beam is being installed. Draw a straight line over the top of the box. From the line to the edge of the box, you need to maintain a distance equal to the width of the guide. The beam is attached to this line. One caveat: the middle of the bar should be located above the right half of the box if the door slides out to the right.
  3. The upper guide profiles are being installed. The fastening of the runners to the beam is carried out with the help of hardware. Check how the rollers slide on the skids. If necessary, replace the latter, otherwise the functioning of the doors in the house will be accompanied by inconvenience.
  4. The bottom skids can be installed in several ways. You can remove part of the flooring, but this is for cases where installation of a structure with lower guides is required. You can mount the guide directly on the floor, you just have to use this design with thresholds. But builders actively use the installation of doors without a threshold, although they allow the guide not to collapse. But much more often they don’t put rollers at the bottom, they use only a packet knife. With its help, the door adheres and does not deviate from the direction of movement.

Doors with a threshold are used infrequently, without it it is much easier. The reason is the possibility of normal operation, the sliding doors of the compartment will be able to work without damaging the flooring. And this allows you to reduce the time required to care for the structure.

Sliding doors: assembly and care

Rollers are hung on the upper end of the web, and holes are made on the lower end, between which a groove is knocked out. It should be 2 mm wide - a little more than a knife. Depth as the height of the knife, in the range of 10-18 mm. The part in which there is no groove acts as a limiter. A door inserted into the grooves in the presence of a limiter is difficult to bring out of its limits.

Installation of fittings is the installation of a lock in an interior door, it is not difficult to do it with your own hands. It is enough to have a simple tool - screwdrivers, pliers. After that, one of the important points is performed - installing handles on interior doors with your own hands. All work is done carefully so as not to damage the appearance, otherwise the sliding compartment doors will look unattractive. If there is no experience, then it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

The final installation of sliding compartment doors is to get into the rails. At the end, rubber stops are placed, which will allow the doors not to fall out during operation and make the stop much softer. This design is much better than butterfly hinges, as it provides greater reliability and convenience.

For beauty, you can apply decorative elements - platbands, which are installed on the box and upper skids. How to mount them correctly, you can read on the label. It is not necessary to cash out, since the mechanism itself is already an element of decor. To care for sliding doors, you must:

  1. Do not allow water to get on the canvas and the sliding door mechanism, especially if all elements are made of wood.
  2. Carefully monitor the cleanliness of the runners, remove dirt in a timely manner. If debris gets on them, the door will move poorly and move apart.
  3. Try not to pull the sliding door and do not slam it, you don’t need to apply force, as the rollers wear out more, sometimes a “flight” beyond the limiter is possible. Putting them back in place can be problematic.
  4. Check the quality of accessories, change rollers in a timely manner.
  5. Re-installation of door locks should be done as carefully as possible.

It is clear that the installation of interior doors from MDF with your own hands or an accordion is a drop in the ocean. It is much more difficult to maintain them in good condition, prevent breakage and make repairs in a timely manner. In general, they are able to serve no less than simple swing structures. Do-it-yourself installation of compartment doors is a guarantee that an element of novelty will be present in your home.

The functionality of the design and aesthetic appeal depend on the quality of installation of interior doors: in any home or office, inspection of the premises begins with doorways. Experienced specialists will promptly take measurements, offer the most optimal options, and install in accordance with the design features.

It is also important to eliminate gaps by foaming with high-quality sealants, leveling the walls at the initial stage of installation and choosing a suitable model of domestic or foreign production.

Mounting Features

Installation of door frames is carried out at the final stage of repair. After wallpapering, work is carried out to install the door frame in accordance with the technical rules and safety requirements. Installing a door in a large opening without anchors and additional elements requires a professional approach: experts recommend not to do this work yourself. Once upon a time, dampers were used as door structures to prevent cold air and moisture from entering the room.

Nowadays, doors serve not only as an entrance and exit zone, but also as a spectacular addition to interior design that can last for decades with proper operation.

Knowledge of technology allows you to organize installation at a high technological level.

To install the structure you will need:

  • form a block and equip the canvas;
  • prepare material for use in conjunction with fittings;
  • pick up hinges (with a regular handle or with an automatic latch).

A block is mounted in the opening, on which the canvas is arranged. Experts recommend pre-adjusting the mechanism. Platband trim is a great way to give the structure stylistic completeness and constructive unity, while it is advisable to use modern materials and the latest technologies. Activities are carried out in a strict sequence: during installation, actions are coordinated in accordance with building codes.

Plastic and metal-plastic installations are implemented in a complementary form, prepared for the fastening process. The box is a collection of wooden bars of different parameters, door panels and special parts (slats) for platbands.

Assembling the box is a process that requires a professional approach:

  • compliance of the measures taken with the requirements of operation;
  • use of proven material and technologies;
  • using a P-base with a threshold.

For this purpose, bars are used (rack, hinged timber). The base with a threshold requires the installation of a bottom material of a certain thickness, while the assembled block must have a strictly geometric configuration. Masters determine the dimensions of the doors, fix the format of the racks and lintels, taking into account the voids, cut out and design special bars.

Kinds

The dimensions of the box material must differ from the dimensions of the web. Measurements are made with simple tools, most often with a ruler. The web is measured along the perimeter: you should not count on an external effect, since distortions are observed during shrinkage. Deviations play a big role in measurements.

The sequence of work is as follows.

  • The parameters of the outer sides of the looped material are analyzed;
  • The operating parameters of the ceiling, feigned material are measured;
  • The state of the surfaces in contact with the opening planes is diagnosed;
  • Provides space for gaps (within 0.2-0.4 cm).

When installing glass structures, measurements of decor parameters are additionally carried out, drawing is carried out using modern methods, if provided. Installation of retractable and double door installations is carried out in accordance with the technical requirements fixed in GOSTs. Roller doors will require additional measures related to the selection of a suitable model, the installation of a structure that meets the standards and design requirements.

Swing and sliding options are a great option for those who are used to saving space and relying on modern design. Specialists will carry out preliminary measurements, select the most spectacular models and promptly carry out all stages of installation. At the request of the customer, non-standard door structures and classic double doors are installed.

With the help of these models, you can create an original interior design, equip any type of room (office, residential, warehouse). Subject to the installation parameters in an apartment, room or office, you can place overall furniture that always looks fashionable and stylish.

Boxes with a threshold acquire slotted holes along the perimeter in the plane of the door block without a threshold. The craftsmen will calculate the points for eliminating vertical posts, provide sufficient parameters for the opening.

When arranging the box, pay attention to the following points.

  • Correspondence of the size ranges of the “P” configuration;
  • The quality of drywall materials;
  • Competent holding washed down the beam.

The miter machine is effective in creating cuts, often using a hand saw or self-tapping screws. When installing doors, innovative technologies are used: the method of washing down vertical racks involves adjusting the parameters of parts and lintels, while strict rules are observed, the design is adjusted to an angle of 45 degrees.

Competently carried out docking of parts gives the installation the necessary external format. The holes must be through, perpendicular to the cut.

Dimensions

When installing interior blocks, the question often arises of how to calculate swing doors for a niche. With small-sized piers, similar to the parameters of the door frame, finishing work is carried out using platbands. The formed set is installed on the sides of the box. This setting is designed to mask the foamed seam. Wooden or laminated platbands, if they are not processed, are installed using hardware, after which they resort to painting. The platbands may differ in shade from the bar, because contrasting options are always in trend.

The door frame made of wood is made in accordance with the requirements in the field of construction using cement-sand plaster. A wood canvas is not recommended to be installed together with fiberboard boxes: different levels of moisture resistance can lead to deformation and cracking.

Structural blanks for screws in an MDF installation are made at the preparatory stage, drilling is carried out with a tool with an optimal diameter. The size of the internal vertical bar level is calculated as the sum of the dimensional indicators of the canvas (usually 3 * 3 mm), if the design is with a threshold. The ceiling part is installed to special devices.

The use of self-tapping screws ensures high work efficiency. The parameters are determined by indicators such as sham and loop materials, the distance is determined as the sum of the parameters used for the side voids.

The beam is made in accordance with the technical parameters at a right angle, as this is required by the arrangement of the threshold. The block is formed on a straight base (for example, on the floor).

Arrangement of door fittings must be carried out in such a way as to ensure evacuation measures. You can choose universal door hinges with right or left mounting. Devices with a laminated surface are manufactured taking into account the parameters of the loop. Usually, 20 cm from the top and bottom edges are left as an indent. The area for installing the hinge to the box structure is determined taking into account technological voids.

What material is better to put

Door products are represented by an extensive model range. Modern interior doors are made using MDF panels, progressive materials (WPC, eco-veneer, natural wood).

  • fiberboard- a great option for creating an inexpensive and spectacular door. The wood frame is covered with laminated fiberboard sheets. These economical designs, easy to install and compact, are popular in the construction market. Experienced specialists will help to increase the resistance of the structure to high temperatures and humidity, using special compounds.
  • MDF allows you to make inexpensive and durable door blocks with optimal sound insulation performance.
  • Wood differs in high durability and resistance to influence of hostile environment and mechanical influence. The porous structure of the material ensures the creation of an optimal microclimate. Such designs are great for author's design, perfectly complement the classic interior, while the parameters of interior doors must correspond to the specifics of the opening.

All-glass doors, metal-plastic structures, steel parts are non-standard products that require an individual project.

Reference door installations are placed in a durable box, the quality of which determines the durability and reliability of the entire structure.

  • fiberboard box represents the strong installation capable to be deformed under the influence of mechanical influences.
  • wood box, not subjected to processing - structures made of profiled timber. Differ in superstrength and reliability. When performing the installation, it will be necessary to use additional materials for the final finishing measures.
  • Box made of laminated materials. This installation does not require final finishing. The defining moment is the nature of the lamination. The use of thin paper is not recommended, since in this case scuffs and cracks may appear that affect the external parameters of the product.

The doorway may be pretreated. This determines the specifics of the opening, its parameters, and the features of the interior of the room. Processing can be done at the expense of additional parts and platbands.

What tool do you need

Door installation requires the use of certain knowledge and technology: a vacuum cleaner and a miter saw are considered indispensable attributes of the kit. Experts recommend at the initial stage to think over an action plan: it will be necessary to organize marking, inserting hinges, arranging door slopes.

Manual equipment and electrical equipment are used at the main stages of work. The question of how to use the router will be answered by experienced craftsmen with many years of experience, under whose guidance all major activities will be carried out.

With the help of a perforator, work surfaces are leveled and the opening expands. This tool allows you to make special recesses for the dowel. The drill helps to drill recesses of the required parameters for fasteners. The start of work is accompanied by a check of the equipment. The tightness of fixing the drill is very important, because the part can fly out during the work and damage the working surfaces of the doors.

The screwdriver allows you to securely fix the hardware in the hinges. The electric jigsaw handles complex surfaces that are difficult to access for sawing. A handheld electric router helps install the locking mechanism and build in the hinges. The pencil allows you to make special marks in places that require processing. For the same purpose, a marker is used (provided that it does not leave marks on the surfaces).

A three- and five-meter tape measure or a steel ruler, together with a calibration square, ensures accurate measurements. With the help of a caliper, the depth of the insert is measured, which is performed using a chisel.

The slope of the surfaces must be measured using a bubble level with parameters within 50 cm. Using a set of screwdrivers, hinges and canopies are attached, locks are equipped.

A miter saw is an excellent tool for sawing structural parts - bars and trim at an angle of 45-90 degrees. The circular saw helps to format the dimensions of the door leaf. The gun can be loaded with high quality caulk to close gaps.

What is included?

Self-tapping screws allow you to fix the elements of the device (mounting strips, hinges, trim, locking mechanism). The kit also includes liquid and finishing nails and micro-studs, which are fixed with an air gun. With the help of these devices, the mount acquires super strength and reliability. The mounting microstud is a compact hardware element without rivets, which provides a solid surface. You can measure the length and width using a tape measure or a metal ruler.

Interior doors are sold without fittings, which are known in domestic and foreign production.

Specialists will help you choose high-quality systems (hinges and locks) that are not subject to mechanical stress and corrosive deformations. By adjusting the hinges with the help of fasteners and a screwdriver while working with slopes, it ensures a high tightness of the web to the box, while using special devices that allow you to measure parts, insert structural elements at a high professional level.

The bath for the solution is made of a special material that provides an optimal format for mixing building mixtures and ease of cleaning after work. The kit includes brushes and rollers for finishing work. The grout set provides a reference view of the surface of the door unit.

How to install: step by step instructions

Interior structures are installed from scratch using step-by-step recommendations posted on Internet portals. Experts recommend not doing DIY activities if you do not have sufficient knowledge and experience.

Experienced craftsmen will tell you at what stage the preparatory measures should be carried out, and at what stage the structure is being installed.

  • Determine the specifics of the means and quality of consumables for installing the structure.
  • Outline the installation scheme for the blocks of a double-leaf interior door with extensions.
  • Carry out constructive measures to install the door frame without self-tapping screws. Hinges are attached to the door block, a cutout is organized in the structure, a strong box is assembled, after which all the elements are assembled together. Metal bases must be structurally sound. The strap is fastened using self-tapping screws. The U-shaped design is the key to well-performed work.

  • Mount the structure in the opening. The box is inserted into the doorway, alignment is performed. The end decorating detail is drilled on both sides.
  • Install door structures on hinges. Lightweight fiberboard door allows you to hold events on your own.
  • Foam the seams, thereby eliminating the voids between the wall surface and the box. Complete solidification is carried out within a day at room temperature.
  • Carry out finishing work. Determining the type of finish will help create the optimal design.

Visually see the installation process in the following video.

How to install accessories?

Experts do not recommend independently carrying out work on installing a door structure, replacing a lock and arranging thresholds, since these activities require high professionalism. Experienced craftsmen will help you purchase a set of high-strength materials, determine the order of work, install the structure correctly, and insert the door frame into the opening. You can assemble the structure, ensuring high build quality, using special tools.

It is necessary to insert fittings using modern technologies and installation methods during preliminary measurements using a tape measure or ruler. High-quality hardware is used as fasteners. At the initial stage, a scheme of work is formed, a set of necessary tools is made, the box is inserted into the opening, and hidden loops are installed.

Successful examples and options

Before you start installing the door, you need to familiarize yourself with successful examples and design options. On the websites of companies engaged in licensed activities, samples of doors in Khrushchev, a modern apartment, and an equipped kitchen are presented. At the same time, it is important to pay attention to high-quality installation, made in accordance with technical requirements: holes are carefully made in the wall, structural parts are inserted at the required angle.

Independent installation of interior doors does not require complex actions. To solve this issue, basic knowledge and skills in the field of repair will be enough. Do-it-yourself installation of the door leaf allows you to save money, since you do not need to pay for the work of specialists.

Preparation for work

Installation of an interior door may be required during repair work. The procedure is not as scary as it might seem at first glance.

Required tool

The installation of a new door is carried out in several stages. As a rule, it is necessary to remove the old canvas, and then proceed to install a new one. At the end of the work, it is required to fix the extensions (if necessary) and platbands. In the process of replacing the blade, various tools may be required - both manual and electric. Depending on the type of work performed and the accessories used, their list may differ.

The list of tools for replacing the door will depend on whether the box needs to be dismantled, as well as on the selected fittings.

Table: tools for interior doors

Drawing up a work plan

To replace an interior door, you should know how to measure the opening to order or purchase a product according to the specified parameters. Correct measurement involves the removal of the following indicators:


First of all, measure the width of the door. The standard opening in most cases is designed for a door of 80 cm. The easiest way to find out this size is to measure the distance between the vertical supports near the floor using a tape measure.

To obtain more accurate indicators, the measurement should be carried out even from above and in the center.

After determining the width, it is necessary to measure the height of the doorway. It is approximately 210 cm. To find out the exact value, you need to determine the distance from the floor to the top of the opening. If it is planned to finish the floor, it is recommended to install a new door after laying the material on the floor. In this case, it is not necessary to take into account the thickness of the finish or adjust the door components during installation. The doorway is measured in height at several points, but the main reference point is the center. Measurements are taken inside the passage.

To determine the height of the doorway, it is necessary to measure the distance from the floor to the top of the opening with a tape measure

The width of the opening is determined in a similar way, while taking into account that the door structure (loot) must be several centimeters smaller to ensure technological gaps. In order for the door to move freely, small gaps must also remain between it and the box around the perimeter.

The width of the opening is determined by the distance between the two sides of the passage

A gap of 5 mm is left between the door leaf and the hatch on all sides, and 12 mm from the bottom.

Table: dependence of the size of the canvas on the width of the doorway

An important parameter for the smooth installation of the door is the evenness of the doorway. Verticality is checked using a plumb or level. Measurements are taken in the center, left and right. Next, using a tape measure, measure the diagonals - the distances from the upper corner of each side to the opposite corner from below. They should be the same, or at least not have significant deviations.

In addition, before you start replacing interior doors, it is recommended to draw up a drawing on which to put down the measurement results. This will speed up the work.

How to choose a new door

When it comes to choosing a new door, it is sometimes difficult to make the right decision due to the variety of models. From the outside, the doors look perfect, but inside, serious flaws are possible. It's all about geometry. If the door leaf has deviations of at least 1–2 mm from the values ​​obtained as a result of measurements, this may complicate its installation. To avoid wasting time on refinishing, it is recommended that you measure the canvas in the shop. It is also important to ensure that exactly the door from which the measurements were taken was loaded and delivered. The next step is to choose a door frame. Most often it comes with a door, but sometimes it is selected separately. The installation of the door structure can be simplified if you purchase all the elements from one manufacturer. Then it will not be necessary to customize one part for another.

Installing a door in an old box

Sometimes there are situations when you need to replace a door without a frame. To do this, you will need to remove the old door leaf, adjust the new one according to the parameters, fix the fittings and install the product in place.

Removing the old door

The hinges on which the doors are attached are different. Therefore, the dismantling of the canvas can be done in different ways. The design of the canopy has two parts, one of which is fixed on the door, the second - on the loot. Some canopies have an axle fixed inside one of the parts. If you want to dismantle a door with such hinges, install a mount or some kind of lifting device from below and, with some effort, lift it up. The work is best done with an assistant who will support the door at the right time.

If the hinges can be separated along the axis, it is enough to lift the leaf slightly to remove the door

There are other hinge options where the axle goes into both parts of the canopy and is inserted through the top. To remove the door with such elements, you will need to remove the rods. The upper part of the pin has a kind of cap, which is pryed off with a screwdriver and they try to remove the element from the loop. It is best to start the procedure from the lower canopy, which will prevent the door from falling, as a result of which it is possible to tear out part of the hinge fixed on the loot. Damage should especially be avoided if the box is in a normal condition and its operation is planned in the future. After removing the door from the opening, the fittings are dismantled from it.

To remove the door from the hinges on a separate axis, it is necessary to remove the restrictive cap and remove the axis

Fitting a new canvas

Replacing a door without a frame involves fitting a new product to the old dimensions. To do this, the new product is placed horizontally, and the old door is placed on top. Both canvases are aligned along the upper and long side, where the handle will be attached. If the new canvas is large, you will need to remove the excess. A line is drawn with a pencil, according to which an unnecessary part is cut off from the new door with a circular saw.

The new door is adjusted to the size of the old one, cutting off the excess parts with a circular saw.

Hardware installation

After fitting the new product, it is necessary to mark the places where the hinges will be mounted. This is done in the following order:

  1. We put the old canvas on top of the new one, combine them with each other and, on the end side of the new door, put pencil marks in the places where the hinges are installed.

    On the door leaf, we mark the location of the hinges with a pencil

  2. With a construction knife we ​​make clear lines.

    Clear marking lines can be made with a sharp construction knife

  3. We select the recesses for the tie-in of the loops with a chisel. To do this, we put the door on the end so that the side where the canopies will be located is facing up. We set the chisel on the line and strike the handle with a hammer. The sharpened edge of the tool should enter the material by no more than 2–4 mm, depending on the thickness of the metal of the hinges. These actions remove the extra layer of wood.

    The recess for the loops is cut with a chisel

  4. We position the hinges so that the flat part is flush with the end part of the door.
  5. When the part clearly enters the selected recess, we drill nests through the holes in the canopy with a small-diameter drill for the convenience of screwing fasteners.

    For the convenience of screwing self-tapping screws, we pre-drill holes with a small drill

  6. We fix the hinges to the door with self-tapping screws, after which we try on the canvas to the opening of the door frame. By fitting, you can determine the size of the gaps and how accurately the product fits into the passage.

    Hinges to the door are fixed with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver

Video: tie-in loops with a chisel

After installing the hinges, you can start making seats for the locking mechanism and handles:

  1. We mark the location of the fittings on the old door. It is important that all measurements are accurate. Otherwise, the hole will have to be moved, which will spoil the look of the door. If an old locking mechanism is used, all the necessary parameters can be measured on the old door.

    On the new door, we make markings for the lock according to its location on the old canvas

  2. We drill holes from the end with a pen drill.

    From the end of the door, a hole for the lock is drilled with a pen drill

  3. To make holes on the main surface of the door, we use a ring-type saw of the required dimension.

    On the main surface of the door, we make a hole for the lock with a hole saw

  4. After drilling, we install and fix the inside of the lock with a latch, and then we mount the handles.

    After drilling the holes, install the lock and handles

Installing the door in the opening

The door is raised from the floor to the required height and a piece of board of the desired thickness is placed. After that, the canopies are combined and the pins are threaded into them, first into the upper part, and then into the lower one. When using loops of a different design, the suspension of the web will occur in a different way. The work is best done with an assistant, since the axles in the hinges installed on the loot must simultaneously fall into the holes located in the counterparts on the door.

Mounting the door with a hatch

If in the process of repairing an apartment or house it was revealed that not only the canvas, but also the box needs to be replaced, then it will be necessary to dismantle the entire door set.

Removing the old box and door

To remove the old door frame, you will need the following list of tools:

  • mount;
  • a hammer;
  • axe;
  • hacksaw.

To dismantle the door hatch, you will need an ax, a hammer, a hacksaw and a mount

We remove the door frame in the following sequence:

  1. We remove the door.
  2. We dismantle the platbands. To do this, we drive the ax between the frame and the cashing and wring the casing from the box.

    To remove the casing, it is enough to drive an ax between it and the box.

  3. In the resulting gap, you can see the nail with which the casing is attached. We start the ax under it and move the casing to the maximum. We move on to the next fastener and repeat the same steps. As a result, we remove the bar. To remove the remaining platbands, we carry out the same actions.

    We bring the ax under the nail and move the bar away from the box

  4. We dismantle the door frame. It is fastened with nails 150 mm long. If it was possible to find the place of the lower fastener, we measure 20 cm upwards from it. Otherwise, we retreat from the floor 80 cm and saw the support.

    We retreat 800 mm from the floor and saw the door frame

  5. We insert the ax above the cut into the gap between the wall and the loot and try to move the support inside the passage. Thus, we remove the nail that holds the rack at the top.

    We move the vertical part of the support above the cut point with the help of a mount

  6. Dismantle the remaining lower part of the support in the same way.
  7. Remove the top of the box. To do this, we drive the ax between the wooden element and the opening, then move it down.

    We dismantle the upper part of the box with an ax, pushing the beam down

  8. With the same actions, we dismantle the remaining vertical support.

Door frame assembly and installation

The door frame can be assembled from profiled timber or MDF. The assembly process is independent of the material and consists of the following steps:

  1. We measure the parameters of the opening. To install the box, you need to provide a gap of about 3 cm. Using the hydraulic level, we control the horizontal of the floor at the corners of the doorway.
  2. We trim the elements of the box with a circular saw.

    Trimming of elements is carried out with a circular saw

  3. We mark the horizontal beam of the box, for which we install it on top of the door with a gap of 2–3 mm and make marks with a pencil.
  4. We put the door on its side and mark the position of the hinges. They are recommended to be installed, stepping back 200 mm from the top and bottom of the web. We measure this distance, attach the canopies to the marking and outline their position along the length.

    We put the door on its side and mark the places where the hinges are to be installed.

  5. We mark the place where the loops on the loot will be located. To align the parts on the side of the door, we put a vertical frame support, measure a distance of 10 mm from below for the gap between the floor and the door itself.

    To mark the position of the loop on the loot, you need to attach the element and outline it with a pencil

  6. We cut the elements of the box according to the marks.
  7. We make washed down the boards of the door frame at an angle of 45˚.

    The door frame boards are sawn at an angle of 45˚

  8. We choose recesses for sheds with a chisel or milling cutter.
  9. To hide the heads of the self-tapping screws with which the loot will be fixed to the wall, we make recesses for them under the hinges. For these purposes, we use drills of a suitable diameter and make holes for sweat.
  10. To assemble the elements of the box with a 5 mm drill, we make holes in the right support and in the left corner of the upper bar. Holes must be drilled at an angle of 90˚ to the facing surface to ensure that the elements are pulled together when tightening the fasteners.
  11. We join all the details of the box with each other with self-tapping screws 40–50 mm long.

    We connect the elements of the box with self-tapping screws 40-50 mm long

Video: how to assemble a door hatch

After connecting the frame elements, you can install it in the opening. To do this, perform the following steps:

  1. We carefully install the door frame in the passage and temporarily fix it with cardboard, which we place between the loot and the wall. With a level, we check the verticality from the side of the installation of the loops. To accurately level the door frame and adjust the gaps, wedges of wooden blocks with different angles will be required.

    Wedges must be used to accurately position the box in the opening.

  2. We install wedges in those places where the loops will be located. Lutka fasteners will also be installed here. For a more reliable retention of the structure in the upper corners, we additionally hammer in a wedge. The box should be flush with the outside wall of the room. It is necessary to ensure that the wedging elements do not extend beyond the surface of the wall.

    Wedges are installed at the hinge locations

  3. We fix the box through the prepared holes, while it is important that there are wedges in the fixation points that will not allow the box to deform.
  4. To ensure the stability of the structure, we perform partial foaming of the cracks between the wall. On the side of the lock, we use foam only in one place to fix the vertical post, since the support will still have to be moved.

    To make the door frame more stable, the space between the wall is filled with mounting foam

  5. We fix the fittings to the door. Having placed a bar of the required thickness under the canvas, we first fasten the upper, and then the lower hinge to the door frame. We close the door and accurately expose the feigned side of the box using wedges.

    Having placed a bar of the required thickness under the canvas, we first fasten the upper, and then the lower loop to the box

  6. We foam the gaps between the wall and the frame on each side.

To avoid swelling of the elements, it is recommended to place spacers between the vertical supports using any materials at hand.

Since door hatches are sometimes placed with a threshold, assembly of this design should also be considered. Box elements can be connected not only at an angle of 45˚, but also at 90˚. In addition, a right angle provides a more reliable connection.

Video: installing the door frame and canvas

All preliminary procedures until the moment of assembly have practically no differences from the installation of a door frame without a threshold. The rest of the process goes like this:

  1. We saw off a horizontal bar along a length equal to the width of the door, and add 6 mm for gaps on both sides of the box.

    We saw off the horizontal part along the length, which is equal to the width of the door leaf plus 6 mm for gaps on both sides of the box

  2. On vertical supports, remove the protruding quarter. Also, do not forget about the gaps on both sides. To make a selection of a quarter, it is necessary to attach the upper transverse element to the end side of the vertical support and mark the width as accurately as possible. According to the mark, we saw off the protruding quarter with an electric jigsaw to a depth equal to the height of the quarter.

    We remove the protruding quarter on the door leaf with an electric jigsaw

  3. We remove a quarter from the end side of the vertical supports with a chisel. We repeat the same procedure on all sides of the structure.

    With the help of a chisel, we remove a quarter from the end side of the vertical supports

  4. We place all the components on a flat surface and connect the upper part. In the frame, it is recommended to pre-make holes with a small drill for self-tapping screws.
  5. Before assembling the threshold, we check the correctness of the dimensions and its location. For these purposes, we place the assembled frame without a threshold on a flat surface and try on the door. We mark the position of the loops, check the gaps. As long as the threshold is not set, the vertical supports can be moved slightly. Once again we measure the distance, make corrections if mistakes were made.
  6. We prepare seats on the door for hinges and other fittings.

    We prepare seats on the door for hinges and other fittings

  7. We fix the threshold to the vertical supports with self-tapping screws and insert the box into the opening.

    The threshold to the vertical supports is mounted on self-tapping screws

  8. We mount the box in the same way as in the case of installing a structure without a threshold.

Installation of extensions

If the wall is thicker than the width of the loot, door extensions are used that allow you to close the wall and visually increase the size of the door frame. To install these elements, you will need to prepare the following list:

  • level;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • hacksaw or jigsaw;
  • plane;
  • a hammer;
  • sharp knife;
  • mounting foam;
  • fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails or "liquid nails");
  • trim strips.

Additional strips can be installed in a groove and without a groove, so it would be logical to consider both options.

Groove installation

If it is planned to use extensions, then the frame for the door leaf is best purchased with a special slot.

The presence of a groove in the door frame will facilitate the installation of extensions

Its presence will speed up the installation process, and will also allow you to move the additional bar, which will significantly increase the installation accuracy. The process consists of the following steps:

  1. We proceed to the installation of the elements after fixing the door frame in the aisle. We measure the distance from the frame to the edge of the wall. Slopes must be measured separately and in different places. To the resulting width, add the depth of the slot in the vertical support. The final value will determine the width of the extension.

    It is convenient to take measurements with a construction square

  2. With an electric jigsaw, we cut the additional bar to the desired size.

    Additional strips are bought with a margin in width, and an exact fit is made during the installation process

  3. We insert the strips into the grooves of the box.

    We insert additional strips into a special groove in the loot

  4. The dobor, which is located horizontally on top, is laid on the side elements.

    The upper dobor lies on the side at a right angle

  5. Use masking tape to temporarily fix the door panels.
  6. The voids that have formed between the extension and the wall are sealed with mounting foam. To avoid extrusion of the planks, we use spacers between them.

    To prevent the extensions from being squeezed out with foam, it is necessary to install spacers

  7. When the foam hardens, remove everything that came out with a knife.

    After the foam has hardened, all excess is removed with a knife.

Grooveless installation

If there is no special groove for extensions in the elements of the box, their fastening is carried out end-to-end. With this installation, accurate measurements are required, as well as careful fitting of the strips. We perform the installation in the following order:

  1. We measure the width of the slopes.

    To determine the size of the extensions, it is necessary to measure the width of the slopes

  2. We make extensions of the desired width. If after cutting the width turned out to be slightly larger, we remove the excess with a planer.
  3. We paste over the cuts with an edge tape, heating the edge with an iron until the glue melts and the tape firmly sticks to the bar.

    To make the edges of the nails sharp, we cut the hats with side cutters

  4. We put the additions in place. First, we mount the vertical element, pressing it tightly at the bottom and tapping with a hammer to insert the nail into the vertical support of the box. Then we attach the middle and upper part. It is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps between the elements and the frame.
  5. We put the transverse bar on top of the vertical ones, measure the right angle and nail it with a hammer to the top of the box.

    Horizontal extension is installed on top of vertical elements

  6. We also blow out the gaps between the planks and the wall with foam.

Video: installation of door extensions

Installation of platbands

When the extensions are fixed, and the mounting foam has hardened, the platbands are mounted.

Platbands are the decorative finishing of a doorway representing the figured pro-thinned-out laid on levels.

To install the platbands, perform the following steps:

  1. We measure the height of the side elements. We also add the width of the platband in the upper part to the height of the doorway.

    The side bar should be above the border of the doorway by the width of the trim in the upper part

  2. Cut off the top of the right casing at an angle of 45˚. We do this so that the edge of the bar adjacent to the extension is shorter. At the same angle, but only in a mirror image, we saw down the left plank.

    The markup of the top element is best done in place.

  3. We saw down the casing from both ends at an angle of 45˚.

    The ends of the platband are sawn in a mirror image

  4. We join the cashing elements and fix them with 5-6 nails for vertical strips and 2-3 for horizontal.

    It is advisable to bite off the hats of the nails to make them inconspicuous.

When using self-tapping screws as fasteners, you will need to drill holes for the cap, and after screwing them, hide the heads with decorative plugs.

When installing platbands from below, it is not necessary to leave a gap under the plinth

The lower part of the platbands rests on the floor, while there is no need to leave a gap under the plinth.

Video: how to install platbands

You can replace the interior door yourself, but it is better to do this with an assistant. Professionals for such work use a large set of tools. However, for a one-time installation, you can get by with a simple list consisting of a screwdriver, a hammer and a chisel with a level. Following the step-by-step instructions, it will be much easier to replace the door, both individually and together with the frame.

Is it so terrible to install interior doors with your own hands, as it is presented? In fact, this is not the most difficult repair operation. It certainly requires a high degree of concentration on the process, but even a beginner can master it by following the recommended sequence of actions.

A successful final result will be achieved if you are careful at every step of the work. The whole process of installing a door between rooms can be divided into successive stages:

  • assembly of the door frame;
  • its installation;
  • installation of the door leaf;
  • fixing the additional element;
  • framing with platbands.

If only one interior door will be updated inside your house, and you have no installation experience, it makes sense to turn to specialists - it will be faster. If you have to install a larger number of them, it is better to do it yourself - in this case, a decent saving of money, time, and also the acquisition of useful experience is possible.

Required tools and materials

To independently install an interior door, you should stock up on such tools in advance:

  • a hammer;
  • tape measure 3-5 m;
  • a set of chisels;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • miter box (special tray for cutting boards at an angle);
  • construction (bubble) level;
  • a circular saw;
  • perforator with an adapter for a drill;
  • electromilling machine;
  • wood saw;
  • Miter saw.

Of the fasteners you will need:

  • black screws;
  • several cylinders of mounting foam;
  • nails with a small hat;
  • dowels;
  • finishing nails.

Necessary fittings and accessories:

  • small bars for wedges with a cross section of up to 40 × 40 mm;
  • door hinges (preferably detachable);
  • latch lock.

Features of choosing a door

Arriving at a furniture store, a potential buyer will be amazed at the variety of models. Externally, the doors look perfect, but inside it can have serious flaws. It's about geometry. Even a slight difference in the lengths of the sides of the leaf of 1-2 mm can seriously complicate the installation of the door. If time and money invested are precious to you, do not be too lazy to measure the canvas right in the store. It is also important to ensure that the measured door is loaded.

The next step is the purchase of a door frame. Some of them make up a single set with doors, but some are sold separately. It is much easier to install interior doors if you purchase a canvas with a box from one manufacturer, and not do the latter yourself.

If it is impossible to buy a box for financial or other reasons, you can create it yourself by purchasing a special bar (box). A homemade box will consist of two vertical racks and one horizontal top (lintel). The purchased timber should not have knots, unevenness, roughness. The thickness of the acquired timber is equal to the thickness of the door leaf, otherwise installation will be impossible.

Buying a single unit greatly facilitates installation, since the structure can be fixed without assistants. However, there is one caveat - after pouring the block with foam, you need at least 6 hours not to make any manipulations with the door. If possible, it is recommended to opt for a set of canvas with a frame.

Preparing the premises for the installation of an interior door

The installation of the door block is preceded by the pre-finishing of the room. It involves the alignment of the walls, which are puttied and plastered. Works performed in humid environments are completed in advance, and the room is ventilated and dried, otherwise the frame will “lead” due to dampness.

Inside the rooms and between them, the rough and finishing floors should already be laid. Thanks to this, the door frame will be correctly mounted at the height of the threshold. There is no need to re-lay the floor if the block is only replaced with a new one.

Assembly and installation of the door frame

The frame is assembled first. To do this, the racks are trimmed so that the gap between the floor or wall and the door leaf is about 10 mm, and are connected with self-tapping screws. Then the width, height, verticality of the opening is checked with a bubble level. The box is ready.

From the bottom and top of the frame, 20 cm are measured for future loops. A similar operation is then performed on the door leaf. With a chisel, places are selected for fastening for installing interior doors (hinges), a block is assembled. Now it is fixed inside the opening with wedges. Again the geometry is controlled by the level.

To maintain a small gap between the canvas and the frame, thick cardboard is taken, folded in half, inserted into the gap. Such "extenders" should be inserted every 10-15 cm along the perimeter of the frame.

The block is placed inside the opening. The mounting gap between the block and the wall is filled with foam without any free space remaining. After that, all wedges are removed.

Most types of polyurethane foam dry after 5-6 hours, but after this time it is still able to expand slightly. Therefore, it is better to leave the door closed for 10-12 hours. After this time, all spacers, wedges, inserts are removed. The final stage remains - the installation of handles, the insertion of the lock, the plastering of the slopes, the installation of the platbands. It is obvious that the total installation time of the door does not exceed 2-3 hours for beginners, not counting the period of complete drying of the foam.

Features of installing a door inside a log house

Some buildings (country house, bathhouse) are made of logs or thick beams. The installation sequence is almost the same as the items listed above, but there is an important nuance - wooden buildings from a log house shrink. It is important to pause when installing the doors, because even after six months the house will only partially sit down. In another year, the shrinkage will be maximum, and the next 3-4 years, the structure will shrink a little more.

For 1 year, the house is able to decrease in height by 5 cm, so installing a door in a log house involves deviations from the generally accepted technology. In order to exclude the occurrence of distortion or other negative influence of the house on the door block, it is recommended to make a casing or simply install bars.

Casing is an element that has a longitudinal spike inserted on the sides of the block. Further shrinkage will only affect it, while not affecting the frame. To do this, a spike 50 mm high and about 35 mm wide is cut out on the sides of the opening. Further, in a bar with a section of 100 × 100 mm, a groove 50 mm wide is cut out, and a little more than a spike (about 40 mm) in height. The length of the beam on the sides should be 5 cm more than the height of the door block when installed in a fresh frame and 2-3 cm when installed in an established one. The top of the casing will be a board 50 × 200 mm, installed by surprise, fixed to self-tapping screws.

Another method (installation of bars) differs only in material savings. Products with a section of 50 × 50 mm are placed inside the groove along the ends. Then the frame is attached to them in order: the side part - the horizontal upper strut - the second sidewall - the bottom threshold. The downside of this solution is that there may be a weakening of the structure, coupled with distortions or deformation of the block due to a lack of wood inside the groove, so the first method (casing) is more preferable.

Features of mounting a door in an aerated concrete wall

Although the material in question for building structures is an excellent sound insulator and saves heat, it is also very fragile. With wide doors installed (from 85 cm), serious shock loads are inevitable at the fixation points of the door block. To prevent premature destruction, you need to make additional wood frames or embedded bars from dry boards, plywood, glued wood. The material is pre-treated with antiseptics or thermally. When using ordinary wood, it is better to give preference to larch - resistant to decay and economically consistent with the species.

The easiest way to strengthen the structure is to ruin the embedded bar inside the end surface. It is treated with a layer of special aerated concrete or tile adhesive, and fastened to anchors or self-tapping screws from 8 cm long. Short fasteners (4, 5, 7 cm) withstand a small shear load, so they will wear out over time. The frame itself is also fixed on self-tapping screws.

The second way to strengthen the frame - the installation of panels - involves either full coverage of the opening along the perimeter, or partial (the segments are installed 50-60 cm apart). Free areas in the latter case are filled with mounting foam with a slight degree of expansion.

Both methods are equally good. Due to the holding forces of fasteners and the expanding force of the mounting foam, reliable installation of doors in aerated concrete is achieved, allowing them to serve for decades.

Final work - installation of platbands

After the foam has dried after 12 hours, it remains to install the trim. They are evenly cut with a circular saw, butted together at an angle of 45 degrees, fastened with finishing nails. Before they are driven in, holes are made at the fixation points with a size approximately equal to half the diameter of the fastener.

To increase the strength of the connection of platbands, it is recommended:

  • lubricate the plane of their attachment with silicone sealant;
  • pre-apply a platband and fix with studs or small nails;
  • cover the holes with colored mastic after driving in the fasteners.

Precautions, rules of care

The key to successful work on the installation of an interior door is the control of all geometric parameters before purchase, the external condition, and the configuration. After payment for the goods, no claims will be accepted.

It is advisable not to allow strong temperature fluctuations inside the rooms. Also, monitor the regular ventilation of the premises - due to the lack of fresh air, there is an increase in humidity, leading to damage to wooden products.

If the door is installed where the temperature or humidity periodically rises, it is necessary to carefully ventilate this place until the mode normalizes (bath, sauna, bathroom).

The door should not be thrown open abruptly, with force or in any other way that causes a violation of the integrity of the block. Although most models have special coatings that prevent wear, you should avoid rough mechanical impact on the canvas, trim, frame.

Regularly clean wooden surfaces with a damp cloth, napkin, cloth. Such a simple way of care will preserve their aesthetic beauty.

Contact of wood with acids, alkalis, solvents, and other chemicals is undesirable. They destroy the integrity of the material.

Obviously, the above step-by-step instructions for installing an interior door make the entire installation process very doable. Following the advice will allow you to competently cope with the task, and timely care for new interior items will preserve their aesthetics and functionality for a long time.