Do-it-yourself car trailer. Do-it-yourself trailer for a car: step-by-step instructions How to make a do-it-yourself car trailer drawings

Once, on occasion, I looked at one of my friends, who works at a scrap metal collection point, and saw in his heap of pieces of iron the wreckage of an old “bee” trailer, it seems.

In the same place, in this heap of old iron, the size of my house, there was also an old rear axle, it seems from a “Muscovite”.

Immediately the idea was born to build a trailer out of this rubbish, for transporting various useful household goods.

After short and productive negotiations with the participation of several tickets of the Bank of Russia, these remains turned out to be with me, and I safely brought them back to my village.

Here's what I got.

I already screwed my own wheels on the bridge, since I have Moscow wheels. In addition, I also got two dented sides, front and rear, with broken hinges.

So, let's list what I used to make this trailer.

1. Rear axle with springs from Moskvich
2. The remains of the old body from the trailer Pchelka
3. Two forged oarlocks from an old gate
4. Spring bushings for a Muscovite, rubber, 6 pcs.
5. A piece of stainless steel tube (old curtain)
6. M10 bolts with nuts, 6 pcs.
7. Loops, 4 pcs.
8. Aerosol paint, 1 can, orange
9. Hitch, 1 pc.
10. Wheels from a Muscovite, 2 pcs.
11. Welding machine
12. Bulgarian
13. Corner 45X45 from an old bed, 2 pcs

The tow hitch was bought in a car shop, primarily for reasons of unification so that my trailer fits all standard towbars, as well as for safety and ease of use. I saw homemade couplers, and I could have made myself, but they did not inspire confidence in me.

The next morning, after the first "fitting" of the bridge and the body, it became clear that they were ... incompatible. The bridge turned out to be 8 cm narrower than the body. I had to cut. With the help of a grinder, after a couple of hours, everything superfluous was cut off, and as a result, a body ideally suited to this bridge was obtained.

After back welding, further construction continued. Due to the fact that the metal of the body was not particularly thick and not very strong (I realized this when I cut the body with a grinder), I decided to fasten the springs to the body through the corners in order to more evenly distribute the load on the load-bearing elements of the body. From two long corners from the old armored mesh, 8 pieces were cut. short corners and holes are drilled in them for the future fastening. After "fitting" the bridge to its fixtures, four of the old forged oarlocks from the gate were made.

A small note about iron. As they say, everything is known in comparison. Like the corners from an old bed, that the old oarlocks from the gate - the old metal in them is of excellent quality, unlike modern corners that can be bent by hand - these old pieces of iron were cut and drilled with great difficulty. I don’t think that it was some kind of alloyed or special steel - it’s just that steel was made differently before.

Bushings were also cut in the amount of 6 pcs. from an old stainless steel curtain.

After everything was assembled, twisted and well welded, it was time to put the trailer on its feet, that is, on wheels, and do its final assembly.

The sides were straightened, new hinges were welded, valves were installed on the sides, a towbar was welded into place. Finally, the trailer was touched up in some places (one can of paint would not have been enough for the entire trailer) and put into operation.

I did not check the maximum trailer load capacity, but the trailer easily transports 0.3 m3 of sand, 10 bags of cement, 200 pcs. bricks. I didn’t load it anymore, but not because it would break, but because the tractor - I have an old Moskvich-412, I feel sorry for him.

I transport anything on a trailer. Sand, stones, bricks, earth, manure, garbage, boat, cupboard, refrigerator, washing machine, potatoes, hay, and so on and so forth.

I am not going to install lighting devices on the trailer and register it with the traffic police, because it is used only during daylight hours and only within our village, it does not go on the highway, and the maximum speed of my “road train” with a load is no more than 30 km / h . For the same reason, I did not make fenders over the wheels and did not install shock absorbers. At these speeds, there is no such need. Only reflectors (reflectors) from

The car trailer is intended for transportation of goods. If you have to deal with the delivery of large or heavy products, for example: household appliances, building materials, etc., you cannot do without such a device on the farm. For new trailers, prices in stores "bite". This raises the question: is it possible to make such a cart with your own hands? You can, dear readers, of course you can. This is what we will do in our today's material.

The trailer load-bearing body can be made by aligning the metal frame with its frame. The five crossbars that need to be placed between the traverses will create the grid of the platform. Regarding the spars, you need to release small releases of consoles.

Then, by welding, longitudinal elements are welded on the sides of the ends. Four racks are installed on them through all the crossbars, which are also welded. For spars, you can use pipes 60x30 mm, they are rectangular. The remaining elements of the trailer - crossbars, racks and traverses - are made of a pipe 25x25 mm.

To transport products of great length in the body, it is better to make its sides folding. It is best to cover the platform grate with a sheet of duralumin 2 mm thick. By screwing it to the base with M5 bolts, you will get a good floor for the trailer.

The trolley bridge beam is made of two equal sections of channels. They need to be inserted into each other, and the joint is scalded. At the ends of one of the channels, two axles for the wheels are pre-welded.

To connect the beam and frame spars, you can use two springs from the old Moskvich. From it, the wheels for the future autocart are suitable. The drawbar of the trailer is made double-beam from a pipe 60x30 mm. The rear ends of the drawbar are overlap welded to the front spars, and its front end converges on the hitch.

At the last stage, the tailgate of the trailer is provided with the necessary illumination: brake lights, position and turning lights. As a redundant circuit, they are connected by wires to the electrical equipment of the car. All this will make the maneuvers of your car with a tow hitch clear to other drivers in the process of traffic.

It's all. We hope that you have learned the general concepts of self-manufacturing a trailer. Easy work for you!

sovetclub.ru

Homemade trailer for a car

Travelers need a trailer on a long journey, it allows you to take with you all the necessary things, and there may be a lot of them. Industrial trailers are presented in a wide range, but they have one significant drawback - a rather high price.
To save money, you can make a trailer for a car with your own hands, for this you will need to draw up a drawing, purchase the necessary material, and have tools for manufacturing available.

trailer material

Often in the garages of car owners there is an unnecessary load of various rubbish, which is a pity to throw out, but it has not found application. You need to dig into these things and see if maybe something will fit for making a homemade product. What might be useful:

• wheels and springs from an old car, disassembled for spare parts;
• pieces of sheet iron;
• channel or corner;
• various fasteners (nuts, bolts);
• pieces of automotive wiring.

For yourself, you need to decide what the carrying capacity of the car trailer (AP) should be - the passport data of the car indicates what maximum weight of the trailer it is designed for. If some material is missing, you will have to purchase it, you will also need a plug to connect the car's electrical wiring to the AP.

Do-it-yourself trailer for a car: drawing up a drawing

When all the necessary material is collected, you can begin to draw up a drawing. It is not too easy to draw a sketch of a future product on paper, therefore, to facilitate the task, you can take a ready-made drawing from the Internet as a basis, and make your own adjustments in the course of creating a design. The car owner should also remember that the homemade product will have to be registered with the traffic police, and it is important to note that the hitch can only be used here factory-made.

For example, a drawing of the Zhiguli AP can serve as a model for a future trailer, if the car itself is similar in size and carrying capacity to this car model. Any car trailer consists of the following main parts:

• body;
• frames;
• drawbar;
• coupling device.

In any case, the frame must be rigid, so it is made of durable steel. As a rule, the body is also made of ferrous metal, but it can also be aluminum or wood.

Types of do-it-yourself trailers

A homemade trailer for a passenger car usually has one axle, but it can also be two-axle. The main advantages of a two-axle trailer are:

• stability on the road;
• large load capacity.

But the two-axle design has its drawbacks, such a trailer:

• more difficult to manage, especially with manual maneuvering;
• weighs a lot;
• less mobile.

When making a homemade product, it should be borne in mind that a single-axle AP must be calculated for a transported load weighing no more than 750 kg. Even in the rules for operating cars with trailers, it is indicated that the load on one wheel cannot exceed 700 kg.

Caravans differ according to the type of use:

Trailers are often equipped with an awning, and motorhomes are also popular among car tourists, which are very convenient on long journeys. True, to transport such a design, a passenger car must have sufficient carrying capacity; crossovers and SUVs are well suited for towing.

The cost of an industrial car trailer for a passenger car

Industrial trailers have a different cost, the price depends on:

• from the complexity of manufacturing;
• dimensions;
• the quality of the materials used;
• type (purpose);
• configuration.

The simplest general-purpose AP will be the cheapest in terms of cost, for example, you can buy a trailer of the LAV-81011 model from the Vector company for an average of 40 thousand rubles. The characteristics of this design are as follows:

• own weight - 175 kg;
• weight of the transported cargo - 525 kg;
• the maximum weight of the loaded AP is 700 kg.

The trailer has dimensions of 2.9 / 1.6 / 1.28 m (length / width / height), has a very good ground clearance of 167 mm. LAV-81011 is equipped with an awning, its height is 0.45 m. The body sides of this model can be folded back or completely removed, there are two modifications.

Trailers are also much more expensive, for example, a trailer for transporting boats costs an average of 200 to 350 thousand rubles.

Tool for making a homemade trailer

For the manufacture of homemade products, first of all, designers use welding, there are motorists who only use it. With the help of gas welding, you can not only weld structural parts, but also cut off pieces of metal of the desired size with a cutter.

Even when assembling a home-made structure, it is often used:

• angle grinder (grinder);
• automotive tools (wrenches and spanners, heads with a knob and extensions).

Do-it-yourself trailer assembly

Having drawn up a drawing, first of all, do-it-yourselfers begin to manufacture the frame. A steel channel is often used to assemble it, so that the metal can withstand loads well, its cross section must be at least 25x50 mm. Also, the frame is often made of a metal pipe, but it is more convenient to work with a channel.

Rolled metal is first cut to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, then the sections of the channel profile are welded together. After welding the main body, the frame should be reinforced with additional stiffeners, otherwise the design will be unreliable.

If you plan to create a trailer on springs, brackets should be welded to the frame. The springs will be attached to the frame base with bolts and nuts, and the axle with the springs will be connected using stepladders. The brackets are welded with a slight offset to the rear of the structure, which ensures the greatest stability of the homemade trailer.

Further, a drawbar should be welded to the frame, and a tow hitch should be mounted at its end. If the trailer-to-car connection is made too long, it will not be very convenient to drive the trailer, it will be especially difficult to maneuver in reverse. It is necessary to weld the drawbar strictly in the center, otherwise the trailer will lead to the side. Even for a uniaxial design, it is necessary to distribute the weight so that the main load of the empty AP falls approximately on the center. If the “rear” of the cart is heavier, the force on the hitch will increase, and it will be in constant tension.

At the end of the connecting unit, a part of the coupling device is installed, the tow bar can be rigidly attached to the drawbar by welding, or with bolts and nuts.

Next, you should deal with the body, the easiest way is to make it from plywood or wood. The plywood floor is screwed to the base with bolts and nuts, it is better to make the sides of a more durable material - wood or sheet iron. It will also not be superfluous to cover the floor with sheets of iron, plywood can quickly get scratched and become unusable.

But the assembly of the trailer does not end there, it is still necessary to install taillights, connect the wiring. Two-axle trailers are often equipped with brakes, the brake system makes driving easier. Particularly relevant is the installation of brakes on a trailer for transporting heavy loads weighing more than 1400 kg.

Do-it-yourself tipper trailer

Often, AP is necessary for the transportation of bulk cargo - river sand, gravel or crushed stone. It is inconvenient to unload building materials from a conventional body - it takes a lot of time to unload. You can make the task easier by installing a dump-type body on the trailer, with a rear tipping mechanism.

The frame with the axle in this design has a movable connection, and a manual body lifting mechanism is installed in front.

You can not install the mechanism, but then you need to weld a support in front. In this embodiment, the body will tip back under its own weight when the locking device is removed.

For a homemade dump truck trailer, it is important that its sides tip over.

Towbars for cars

To connect the trailer to the car body, you need to install a towbar on the car. The traction coupling device (TSU) for a car consists of parts:

• hinge with hook;
• power beam;
• sockets for connecting wires.

The industry produces towbars of various designs, there are tow hitches in which the hook is welded to the beam by welding, and together with the hinge it is a single, monolithic structure. But more often, hinges with a removable hook are produced, and this version of the device has the advantage - in case of damage to the coupling or wear of the ball, the coupling can always be replaced.

There are also tow hitches where the ball can be removed from the hook and it can be changed separately. Many towbars are equipped with a safety device that prevents the complete loss of the connection between the car and the trailer, it is necessary for safety.

Making a homemade trailer in the traffic police

Any home-made car trailer must be registered with the traffic police, for this you need to provide:

• sales and cash receipts for components and parts purchased for the assembly of a home-made structure;
• four photos 10 by 15, pictures should be from all sides of the trailer;
• personal passport;
• application for registration;
• receipts for payment of state duties.

After registration, license plates are issued for the trailer, technical inspection for AP with a carrying capacity of up to 3.5 tons is not needed if the trailer belongs to a private person.

Do-it-yourself trailers for cars: video

autobrands.ru

DIY trailers for cars

Today, almost every family has a personal car, but it is not uncommon for the trunk volume to transport household goods is simply not enough. For these purposes, a light trailer is perfect.

Due to the fact that it is not required so often for domestic needs, many car owners prefer to take on its manufacture on their own. To be honest, this makes some sense, especially if the plans are to build not a universal trailer, but something narrowly focused, for example, for a boat or a motorcycle.

Is it profitable to make a trailer yourself?

A rather controversial issue, because in this case there are several factors that affect the final cost of the structure.

• Availability of the necessary tools. In order to assemble a trailer with your own hands, you will need a fairly large number of hand tools that you will need to buy or rent. In the event that you already have this tool, it becomes possible to cross out a fairly significant expense item.
• Skills. The essence of this expense item is that special skills may be required. For example, welding. Without welding joints, it will simply be impossible to assemble the structure completely.
• Materials. Another significant item of expenditure, from which there is no escape. However, in the event that you have the opportunity to get any components at competitive prices, this will be a definite plus. Or rather, a minus, to the total cost of the trailer. One has only to take into account that many components must be supported by a certificate.
• Registration of documents. There are also expenses that you can't do without. Investments in design certification and registration will be required.

How to make a trailer for a car with your own hands?

By itself, a classic-style light trailer has a rather uncomplicated design. In fact, the frame and sides are combined together, which in the assembly is a kind of "carrying body".

That is why collecting everything with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Let us consider in more detail the necessary materials and tools needed to assemble the structure:

Materials for a homemade trailer

Naturally, the assembly begins with a selection of material. Of course, depending on the design features, the list can be truncated or supplemented, but in general, such a list is the most common.

• Channel 25x50 mm to create the base, in particular the frame and sides. It is not uncommon to use a square pipe, the optimal size of which is 40x40 millimeters.
• Metal sheets for sheathing boards. Both steel with a thickness of 1 mm and aluminum with a thickness of 3 mm are excellent.
• Plywood or a thick sheet of metal for making the bottom. In fact, a huge number of different materials are used for these purposes, ranging from wooden flooring to plastic. It is only necessary to take into account that the material must have a sufficient margin of safety.
• Chassis elements. This item depends entirely on the design features of the trailer. So, for example, the rear axle from the Zhiguli or Muscovite is often used. Often used spring suspension elements from Wolves. Wheels, respectively, will also be selected depending on what formed the basis of the design.
• Electrical equipment. In particular, rear lights, wiring elements, a special "socket", etc. This can also include reflectors.
• fasteners. Brackets, angles, bolts, nuts, screws and other fasteners.
• Hitch. This element must necessarily have a certificate and factory origin. It is allowed to use a hitch removed from the factory trailer.

List of tools

Unlike the list of materials, the list of tools will be somewhat smaller, but you need to treat it with no less responsibility.

In total, there are three major points regarding the tool:

• Hand tool. This includes everything, a fairly standard set. Hammer, pliers, wire cutters, curly and flat screwdrivers, etc. You may need a hand riveter, hacksaws for wood and metal.
• Power tool. You can't do without this item. A grinder with a set of disks, an electric drill is required, it is advisable to find a screwdriver and a jigsaw.
• Welding machine. If for some reason you do not have the opportunity to use a welding machine, then you can simply forget about assembling the trailer yourself, because. without welding joints, it is simply impossible to assemble the frame.

How to make a drawing?

Many people seriously think about drawing up drawings with their own hands, however, in this case this is not the best solution.

It would be much more rational to use a drawing of a finished factory trailer, or ready-made drawings that were published in Soviet magazines are quite popular. The latter, by the way, are freely available and quite suitable for use.

It is worth noting that no one restricts changes to the finished drawing in order for the finished product to fully meet your requirements. But making a trailer without an idea of ​​​​how it should look like in the end is definitely not worth it, so you simply cannot do without drawings and calculations.

Assembly of a light trailer - stages

After there are drawings, the necessary tools and a complete set of material, you can proceed with the main process.

The manufacture of a trailer can be divided into several stages, each of which must be considered in more detail:

• The first step is to make the most durable frame possible. For this, and a channel or a square pipe, a square or rectangular base with several crossbars is welded, the task of which is to maximize the reinforcement of the structure. At the same stage, a coupling device and brackets are welded to the frame, designed to fasten the suspension elements.
• The second step is the manufacture of the boards. Corresponding pieces of metal are vertically welded to the already finished frame. By the way, you should not weld them only at the corners of the frame, the sides experience quite strong loads, so it is recommended to take care of their intermediate reinforcement. I often make the tailgate reclining, and therefore this part will have to be welded using canopies.
• The installation of the trailer axle should not be carried out in the middle, but slightly shifted towards the rear side. It is recommended to install the axle with the assistance of an assistant, and for convenience, the frame can be turned over. Depending on the elements of which car will be chosen as the suspension, it will also depend on what features will appear during installation. In particular, it is recommended to use springs and shock absorbers. Of course, the springs are able to withstand a large load, but with springs, the trailer will be softer and more manageable.
• Sheathing of the sides and bottom is carried out using pre-prepared material. In the case of using metal, it is quite possible to simply weld the sheets to the sides, but also a fairly popular way is to use special aluminum rivets, which are strong enough and easy to install.
• When installing electrical equipment, it is worth remembering that all connections must be as tight as possible; it is recommended to use a special protective corrugation for laying wires. It is required to fix the wiring carefully, excluding any extra hanging wires. As lanterns, light elements from onboard Gazelles and UAZs are often used.

The cost of a do-it-yourself trailer

When compared with factory products, if you have the necessary tools, sufficient experience in owning them and a suitable place for assembly, a do-it-yourself trailer for a car comes out 30-50% cheaper.

But it is worth remembering that there may be additional costs for the tool and the involvement of third-party specialists, in particular a welder, which means that, on average, a car owner who is not very “advanced” in the technical part will be able to save 20-30% of the cost of a similar model assembled in the factory.

Types of homemade trailers

There are several types of homemade trailers that are quite common in our country:

• Universal. Occurs most frequently. It is a box of square or rectangular shape, designed to carry various cargoes. The most simple and affordable option.
• Special Purpose. A trailer for transporting some specific things is most often an ATV, motorcycle or boat.
• Residential trailer. Rare, but also found. Designed for travel and outings. Not everyone undertakes the manufacture of such a complex structure, and it is not so easy to register it.

Do-it-yourself two-axle trailer for a car

Structurally, a two-axle trailer is not much different from a single-axle trailer. The main difference is only the dimensions and, accordingly, the presence of a second axis. At the same time, such models are more stable on the road and have a much greater carrying capacity.

In the event that you plan to assemble just such a trailer, then you should know that not all designs fall under category "B". If the weight of the trailer exceeds 750 kilograms, a driver's license with an open category "E" will be required.

How to connect a trailer to a car?

The trailer is connected to the car with a hitch. Needless to say, the car must be equipped with a tow bar. When making a homemade trailer, it is worth remembering that the shorter the connecting part is, the more controllable and sensitive the hitch will be.

Therefore, the optimal length is from 1.5 to 2 meters. Also, a special “socket” must be provided to connect to the vehicle’s electrical wiring. A wiring diagram can be found in the owner's manual for a specific vehicle.

• You do not need to assemble a trailer weighing more than 750 kilograms if you do not have an open category "E".
• No need to load a homemade trailer to the limit, in order to avoid unpleasant situations.
• Be sure to use an approved hitch. A homemade device can not only let you down at a crucial moment, but also become a reason for refusing to register a vehicle.
• Carefully check all welds and connections, if you are not sure about the quality of your welds, invite a specialist who can professionally perform this work.

Registration of a homemade trailer

To register a homemade trailer, you will need to perform the following steps:

• Collect the necessary documents, in particular, a document on an independent examination of the conformity of the design, a document on the absence of a license plate, a certificate of the coupling device, a photocopy of the passport of a citizen of the Russian Federation.
• Contact the MREO to an authorized person, and after inspecting and familiarizing yourself with the technical condition of the car, obtain a state registration number.

It is worth remembering that registration will require some material costs, in particular, the examination and payment of state fees.

As you can see, it is quite simple to assemble the trailer, while doing all the work with your own hands, it will be possible not only to realize the full potential of the car and greatly facilitate some household tasks, but also save quite an impressive amount of money. How to make a do-it-yourself trailer for a car? Link to main post

autopravilo.ru

Do-it-yourself light trailer.

How to make a trailer with your own hands will be discussed in this article, and several manufacturing options will be described, depending on the wheel suspension. Many drivers begin to think about making a trailer on their own when it becomes necessary to transport some kind of cargo, for example, during the construction of a house or summer cottage. And when looking for a finished trailer, many do not find what they need for sale, and if they do, the trailer costs quite a lot.

With self-manufacturing, car owners have the opportunity not only to save a significant amount of money, but also to make a trailer to suit their needs and the dimensions of the cargo being transported, and, well, to fit the size of their car. In addition, some parts of the trailer can be made literally from iron trash that is lying around in the garage or in the country, or something can be found for a penny at a car disassembly (for example, the same suspension parts and wheels).

Below, the manufacture of a soft (suspension) version of the trailer will be described first, using a finished automobile beam, then a completely home-made version with suspension will be described, and at the very end, the simplest non-suspension version will be shown that can be used locally (if goods should be transported nearby and on a good road).

And of course, each driver will be able to choose the trailer manufacturing option that suits him best in terms of operating conditions, as well as depending on the complexity of manufacturing. It makes no sense to list what tools and materials will be needed in the manufacture of the trailer at the beginning, since everything will be described in the process.

Do-it-yourself trailer - an option with a finished car beam.

As the name already implies, you will need to find a rear suspension beam on a car dismantling, from some old car. Instead of a beam, you can also use a suitable pipe (for example, 80 mm in diameter), this option will be easier, but in this case you will have to fasten the wheel hubs to the pipe and attach the springs to the pipe. And with a beam, everything is much simpler, since all the fasteners are already there.

However, some springs can also be attached to a regular pipe using studded tie-down collars (as shown in the photo with a square hub adapter - below in the text). Using a pipe instead of a factory beam will lighten the weight of the suspension, since the beam is still significantly heavier than the pipe. What to choose - a pipe or a finished beam, everyone decides for himself, based on his capabilities and on what is available from the material.

The price of a beam can be cheap if you use a beam not from a foreign car, but from a Soviet car. And if the price of some ancient Muscovite can be in the range of $ 100 - $ 150, then it is easy to guess that the price of the rear beam from the same Moskvich will be very low.

The advantage of the Moskvich beam and its rear suspension is that the Moskvich's suspension uses springs, not springs, which means that the carrying capacity of the trailer with springs will make it possible to transport even cubes of a boiler for construction in the trailer. In addition, it will always be possible to add a couple of additional springs and thereby further increase the carrying capacity of the trailer, in case of emergency.

Well, another advantage of the leaf spring suspension is that it will not be necessary to spend additional time and make independent suspension A-arms, which are usually used with springs. However, this more complex option will be discussed below.

And so we purchased a beam (rear axle), preferably together with hubs and wheels, and of course with springs fixed to the beam (see photo 1).

The axle shafts can be cut off, and the main pair of the rear axle gearbox can be removed from the housing along with the bearings - they will no longer be needed, and the weight of the beam will be significantly lightened. Well, the hole for the output of the propeller shaft cross will need to be closed with a homemade plug. Everything - the basis of the trailer is.

Ear of fastening of a spring to a frame of the trailer.

Next, you should make the ears indicated in photo 2 below and in the photo on the left. The “ears” could also be cut off from the car body during disassembly (the factory ear is shown in the photo on the left), but if this was not possible, then they would have to be made from sheet metal, 4-6 mm thick.

With these "ears" the springs will be attached to the trailer frame when the frame is made.

The frame is best made from a profile pipe (rectangular profile 40x60x4, but it can also be square 60x60x4), since such a pipe is quite rigid, despite the small wall thickness, and not too heavy, unlike the corner. In addition, the joints of the profile pipe at the corners of the frame are very convenient to weld together.

Of course, before welding the frame, you should measure with a tape measure and mark the desired length with a marker and then cut the blanks from the pipes for the base, which has the shape of a rectangle.

The two longest pipes (long sides of the frame rectangle) will be the length that you want to end up with a trailer body (2 meters is enough, if longer, then it is preferable to make a two-axle trailer). Well, the width of the other two transverse pipes for the short sides of the frame rectangle, if possible, should not be wider than the dimensions of your car.

Having cut two long pipes and two shorter ones with a grinder, we grind chamfers from the edges of all pipes (for a reliable weld) and lay the pipes on a flat floor, laying out an equilateral rectangle from the pipes.

We check all the corners of the rectangle with a square (so that the angle is strictly 90º), then we grab the pipe joints by electric welding, check the corners again with a square and finally weld the joints.

We use a conventional welding machine, with an electrode diameter equal to the pipe wall thickness, but it is much more convenient and faster to work with a semi-automatic device, who has it, and the quality of the seam will be better (and without scale).

Having welded the rectangle, then we prepare (cut off) two or three transverse pipes, which we weld in the middle of the rectangle (this will add rigidity and add an additional supporting surface to the floor of the trailer body and the longer the trailer, the more transverse pipes should be welded).

After that, you can weld the frame to the suspension (through pre-made “ears”) and then weld the L-shaped jumper to the rectangular frame of the future car trailer in front, which is indicated by yellow arrows in photo 2 above), on top of which the tow hitch ball joint will subsequently be welded - hitch. How to make a towbar for your car, I advise you to read here.

Well, now it remains to make a body with a folding tailgate and attach it to the trailer frame. There are also several body options. You can weld the frame from a corner (in the form of a parallelogram) and then weld it to the frame (or bolt it).

Further, the frame from the corner (floor and sides) is sheathed with chipboard, plywood, textolite, metal sheet, etc., depending on the cargo being transported.

But it is possible to use not a corner for the body frame, but the same profile pipe (as in photo 3 on the left), only smaller in width (40x40x3 mm, or even 40x20x3 mm).

The floor of the trailer body can be made of a metal sheet (as in photo 3, if you plan to transport something heavy), but you can also use chipboard, textolite, thick 20 mm plywood. If we use plywood or chipboard, then they should be covered with natural drying oil before painting in order to exclude moisture in the future.

If you plan to transport bulky cargo, then it is better to immediately increase the sides, as shown in photo 4 on the left. To increase the height of the sides, we again use a profile pipe, but of a smaller transverse size (30x30x3, or 30x20x3).

Next, it remains to weld the hitch for the ball joint (now they are already on sale in the car market) to the top of the L-shaped jumper, pre-welded to the trailer frame. To the same jumper, in the area of ​​the ball joint, but from below, an “ear” should be welded into which the axis of the folding stop will be inserted.

The emphasis will be needed so that the trailer, after uncoupling it from the car, stands strictly horizontally on the ground. However, the presence of an emphasis is not necessary, you can do without it.

Then you should sheathe the sides of the trailer with a metal sheet, plywood or textolite and then prime and paint the car trailer (photo 5).

It is advisable to hang the tailgate on door canopies (you can make canopies yourself, as in photo 6) in order to be able to open the tailgate during loading or unloading.

Locks and hinges (door canopies) for a folding tailgate can be purchased at markets or hardware stores.

Well, do not forget that on the back board, or a little lower, you should definitely fix and connect the brake lights, dimensions and turn signals. All this can be found from some kind of car on auto-dismantling for a penny. Fixing and connecting standard (factory) brake lights, turn signals and clearance lights on the trailer will allow you to easily register your home-made car trailer at the local MREO and then pass inspection without any problems.

And lastly, if the trailer will be used somewhere in the village, then the wings are optional (as in the photo above), since the absence of wings (mud shields) increases the trailer's patency through the mud. Well, if the trailer is made for the city, then the installation of wings is very desirable, otherwise the trailer and the car will always be dirty. It is very easy to make flat fenders for trailer wheels from thin sheet metal and therefore the process has not been described.

By the way, if the sides of your trailer are wider than in the photos above (that is, the sides will overlap the wheels, when viewed from above), then you can not make wings, but simply hang rubber mudguards under each side, in front and behind each wheel.

Do-it-yourself trailer is the second option with an independent spring suspension.

This option is more difficult to make than the option described above with a dependent spring suspension. Since you have to buy or make independent A-arms (pendulums), and hang them to the trailer frame through bronze bushings machined on a lathe. You can use rubber silent blocks instead of bronze bushings, but the bushings are still much more reliable and durable.

Zhiguli lever made of sheet steel.

This option of independent trailer suspension allows you to use a home-made trailer on any off-road and is more suitable for SUV owners. Also, this option with a soft independent suspension is perfect for a boat trailer.

You can look at the motorcycle disassembly for ready-made levers from the Ant scooter suspension, or common sheet steel levers from the classic Zhiguli (shown in the photo).

Or look for levers from the rear suspension of some foreign car (as in the photo on the right - by the way, this photo shows the rear suspension arm of a car along with a fixed factory hub, a shock absorber and a brake drum (with a brake cable), which means you won’t need to bother with fixing the hub on the lever.

In addition, it will be possible to use the brakes on the trailer (by connecting the cable to an additional handbrake or to the brakes of the car), if you plan to transport something very heavy). Such a lever will need to be fixed to the trailer frame rotated 90º, in contrast to the front suspension arms of Zhiguli and other machines.

In general, there are a lot of options for making a spring suspension of a trailer, as many designs of spring suspensions for cars, as many options for making a suspension for a home-made trailer.

You can search and purchase on websites, or in car dealerships, ready-made new levers with already welded support cups for springs, as in the photo on the left. If you can’t find ready-made A-shaped levers, then you have to make the levers yourself, there is nothing complicated about it.

Springs can be found at disassembly, and their thickness and, accordingly, stiffness depends on what kind of cargo you are going to transport in the future. If you plan to transport a boat or a small light boat, then springs from an Ant scooter, or some kind of ATV, motorcycle, etc. will be enough.

When self-manufacturing A-shaped suspension arms, you will need a steel sheet, for reinforcing scarves, a round thick-walled pipe with a diameter of about 25 - 30 mm, a slightly thicker pipe for bushings for silent blocks (or for bronze bushings).

Homemade A-arm made from straight tubes. It remains to weld an adapter to the top of the lever to secure the hub axle.

The design of the levers is clear from the photo above. It shows levers with curved pipes, but who does not have a pipe bender, then you can make levers with absolutely even pipes, in the shape of an even letter A, as in the photo on the right.

When the levers are purchased or ready, it remains to fix the hub axles for the wheels on the ends of the levers and put the hubs themselves on the axles.

In order to fix the axles of the hubs and the hubs themselves with bolts to the end of the A-arm, or to the end of the spring suspension tube, it will be necessary to cut out square (see photo below) or round adapters with holes from thick sheet metal (thickness 18 - 20 mm) (round adapters - flanges can be cut on a lathe from thick sheet metal), into which the hub axle flange will be bolted (as in the photo).

Having cut adapters out of thick sheet metal and drilled holes in them (at the same distance as on the flange of the hub axle), it remains to weld them to the A-shaped lever, or to the transverse tube of the spring suspension (the photo on the left shows exactly the option with a pipe for spring suspension).

If the square adapter for the hub axle will be welded not to the spring suspension tube, but to the end of the A-shaped arm of the spring suspension, then the adapter during welding should still be reinforced with scarves welded across the adapter (square) (as in the drawing on the right), cut out of dozens of sheet metal (thickness 8 - 10 mm).

Inside the spring (or near) it is desirable to fix the shock absorbers, which will add comfort. However, this adds weight and complicates the design. It is much more convenient to fix shock absorbers from some kind of motorcycle, which themselves have a common design (shock absorber and spring as one).

By the way, when using shock absorbers from motorcycles (together with springs), it will not be necessary to make and weld support cups for automobile springs from sheet metal. It is enough to weld lugs to the suspension arms for mounting bolts for silent blocks of motorcycle shock absorbers.

There are many options for choosing parts and making an independent soft suspension for a car trailer with your own hands, and everyone chooses what is more convenient, and sometimes based on what comes to hand on a car or motorcycle disassembly. And of course, it is unrealistic to describe absolutely all the options for manufacturing a suspension for a car trailer in one article. However, the main and simplest options for making a trailer suspension have been described.

Having made the suspension, it remains to weld the trailer frame and sides, then sheathe the floor and sides, as described above, in the first version (with a beam and springs). And then it remains to fix the spring independent suspension to the frame (by the way, it is more convenient to make the suspension removable, rather than welded). Of course, the attachment points of the suspension of the right and left wheels to the frame of a home-made car trailer must be absolutely symmetrical, which is checked using an ordinary tape measure.

It should also be remembered that when attaching the upper spring support and shock absorber, you need to ensure that the wheels of the empty trailer are suspended with some negative camber. Otherwise, when the trailer is fully loaded, the tire tread will wear out unevenly (more on the inside than on the outside).

Well, do not forget about the feet, dimensions and turn signals (it was described above).

In conclusion (below), you can watch a video about making a do-it-yourself trailer of the simplest non-suspension version. And although it shows how to make a do-it-yourself trailer for a walk-behind tractor (the principle of building an auto-trailer is the same) and the fastening of the hubs to the transverse pipe is not shown, but all this has been described above, good luck to everyone.

suvorov-custom.ru

A trailer is a vehicle that does not have an engine installed. It is designed to be coupled with a vehicle. Despite the apparent complexity of such a device for transporting goods, it is not difficult to make a trailer with your own hands. For successful work, you need to choose the right parts and materials, complete sketches or drawings.

Transport trailers

The widespread use of semi-trailers and trailers is due to additional amenities in the transportation of heavy loads. Only part of the load falls on the car, which prolongs its service life. When unloading, you can save valuable time by unhooking the wagon and leaving it in place, and unloading at a convenient time. This option is convenient and is used for the delivery of goods between the shops of one enterprise, located at a certain distance.

All trailers are conventionally divided into two groups:

• Special-purpose trailers allow you to take into account the needs of working with various cargoes, and there are quite a few universal machines for such work. Common types include heavy semi-trailers, log trucks, panel trucks, cement trucks and other types of trailers.
• General transport equipment includes flatbed, tilt and other trailers of various sizes, designed to carry loads of any kind.

Varieties depending on load distribution

Trailer designs use a variety of steering wheel steering systems to improve the maneuverability and control speed of the road train. Hitch attachments are standard in most cases. If the trailer has an active wheel drive from the car engine, then such wagons are called active car trains.

To set such an active drive in motion, a mechanical transmission is used by means of a coupling device, or a hydraulic drive is used.

If the road train has two or more links, then the engine is located in the rear section. Unofficially, there is the concept of "trailer", it is used to move cars, other equipment or oversized cargo (long or heavy).

Depending on the load distribution between the trailer and the tractor, trailers are divided into several types:

Requirements for transport devices

A person who independently wants to make a transport wagon for the movement of goods should study the requirements for car trailers. These standards are contained in GOST 37 .001.220-1980, which is called "Trailers for cars." A selection of these requirements include the following provisions:

Features of the use of wagons

Trailers are used only in accordance with the purpose, as this is due to the same tires and wheels with the main machine, gauge, travel in certain clearance dimensions. The rule does not apply to heavy trucks and trailers-dissolutions. All breakdowns that appear during operation are similar to malfunctions of the brake system and chassis of the main machine.

In addition, the operation of the trailer is disrupted due to damage to the hitch or wear of the rotary device.

To delay the repair of these systems, it is necessary to conduct regular inspection of the trailer. Since the operation of the device is associated with constant shaking and shock due to uneven movement on the roads, it is required from time to time to tighten the fasteners and align the curved parts. Before operation, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the springs, brakes, lighting, tire pressure, the presence of a spare wheel, the serviceability of the side and body locks.

Wagons are towed according to the rules, speeding is unacceptable, as well as sudden braking and unequal distribution of cargo. Increasing speed while driving will cause the trailer to wobble to the sides. Hard braking causes the car and trailer to fold, this is also facilitated by braking with the help of the engine. Due to the uneven storage of transported materials, stability is impaired and the trailer may tip over.

DIY manufacturing

In order to make a trailer yourself, you need to take care of purchasing some materials and tools. In order not to look for the necessary devices during work, they are purchased in advance. List of tools and materials:

Beginning of work

Assembly begins with the trailer frame, which is the load-bearing structure. It bears the main weight of the load. It is subject to increased requirements for reliability and durability. The prepared channel or square pipe is cut to size according to the drawing, two long and two short blanks are made.

They make a rectangular or square base in the form of a frame, to which the sides of a metal sheet will subsequently be attached. They pay attention to the quality of welding, since this is a sore spot for home-made caravans. The hitch is fastened in front of the manufactured frame. To install shock absorbers in the middle of the frame put special eyes.

It is the turn to make the side frame. For fastening the side railing, vertical posts are strengthened, their length depends on the height of the side. The vertical elements are interconnected by additional stiffening ribs, since during the movement it is the racks that experience the load from the displacement of the load. Additional reinforcing ties are made horizontal, vertical or placed obliquely.

Working with the undercarriage of a trailer is fraught with a large number of difficulties and features. One of them is that the axle should be located closer to the rear of the trailer. All design features arise depending on which chassis of which car is taken for the trailer device. Shock-absorbing eyes and fastenings for jet rods are welded to the frame. The installation and use of the latter is mandatory, as they play the role of elements that support the bridge.

Final phase

Sheathing the sides with metal and making the bottom of the trailer from plywood is done at the final stage of assembly. A jigsaw is used to cut plywood according to the size of the internal space, and sheet steel is cut with a grinder. Bottom elements can be made from a single sheet or connected from pieces with a lead-in of at least 5 cm. All pieces must be attached along the perimeter to the frame and base elements using bolted connections.

The boards are cut to size, which are measured on the spot. At this stage, it is irrelevant to use the dimensions from the drawings, since during the manufacturing process the dimensions of the body skeleton, as a rule, differ slightly from those provided in the diagrams. Welding or rivets are used as fasteners, which also hold the material well. The boards are attached to all racks and reinforcing ties.

Electrical equipment

Elements of electrical equipment are installed on the rear wall of the trailer. These include red triangular reflectors, a reversing lamp, state license plate illumination, direction indicators, stop indicators, and position lamps. On the wall in the front there are white dimensions and the same reflectors.

The side walls are designed for orange color reflectors. To keep the wires intact, they put on a protective corrugation. Wire connections must be secure and well secured. Corrugation with wiring inside is conveniently attached to the frame frame using plastic clamps.

Making a caravan requires skill and experience with power tools, but it will save you money compared to buying a ready-made vehicle from a store.

Almost every car owner has a need to transport large cargo, but not too much weight. The trunk is not always suitable for such purposes, and then a trailer comes to the rescue. But it is absolutely not necessary to spend money on the purchase of such a necessary thing in the household, you can makedo-it-yourself car trailer.

We start work with the manufacture of the frame

The basis of any trailer is its frame. Its service life is determined by the strength and rigidity of the frame. Greater reliability of the connection can be guaranteed by the use of welding to assemble the constituent parts into a single design.

But it is recommended to start work by clarifying the numbers of the length and width of the underlying structure. Its size is calculated on the outside of the frame. When determining the width, it is necessary to add a double figure of the thickness of the wall size to the digital indicators of the distance along the inner side walls. If you plan to place the base between the wheels, you should add the distance between the wheel and the side of the trailer to the figures obtained.

After you have decided on the dimensions, you can make the first fitting of the frame. To do this, the metal profile must be laid out on a leveled surface in the room, while maintaining the strict perpendicularity of the frame components and connected with temporary clamps. With these actions, you will control the frame configuration of the future trailer, for which you will need to determine the distances of the frame along two diagonals in a rectangle with a construction tape measure. The length indicators should be equal, a discrepancy of 3-5% of the resulting value is allowed. By performing these works, the trailer of a car with your own hands can be strengthened with a stiffener due to the fact that the geometric figure of a rectangular or square shape is not very stable for the load.

We begin to connect the trailer to the car

If you also use other towing devices on your car, then for a home-made trailer you should choose a clutch ball of the same size in order to avoid additional difficulties.

In the manufacture of this coupling part, it should be remembered that with the shortest length of the coupling parts, you get an increase in the speed of the trailer's response to vehicle maneuvers. That is, even if the drive wheels have moved a small amount, the trailer will quickly repeat the maneuver, which can cause things in it to fall or deform. The length from one and a half to two and a half meters is recognized as the best, taking into account the purpose of the device.

For the manufacture of a towing device, a square-shaped steel pipe is suitable, you will need three of them. It will be better and stronger to connect all pipes by welding and, to increase strength, reinforce this assembly with a metal corner. Before starting welding, it is advisable to make an additional fitting so that the middle of the junction falls strictly along the trailer axis.

Then you can proceed to mount the chain or cable for safety purposes. Its length should be such that when the trailer is moving, it does not crawl along the road. For the convenience of moving a trailer without a car, a folding wheel of not very large dimensions is often installed in the hitch.

The next step is to replenish the do-it-yourself car trailer with a coupling for connecting

When installing the coupling coupling, you can use the fastening of parts by welding or fix them on bolts. Before proceeding to the final stage of fastening to the frame, it will not be superfluous to check how the grooves of the gutter match in size with the base pipes. In this case, you should know that the width of the groove should not exceed the width of the pipe by more than half a centimeter.

If you fix the coupling by welding, the trailer will receive additional strength of this assembly, and you cannot do without a gas burner for dismantling work. In the case of fixing the coupling not by welding, but by bolts, the strength is much lower. For such work, it is recommended to use bolts with strength class 8, since fasteners of lower classes show themselves under such loads as weak elements. The connection itself will be enough to make two bolts, if you take more of them, then because of the need to make extra holes at the attachment point, you can loosen the trailer frame.

We are engaged in the axis of the device

According to existing rules, the axle on the trailer should be placed for a length that is equal to 40% of the entire length of the trailer itself from the rear. Having carefully measured the length, you should designate the place where the future axis will be located. You can install it from top to bottom, while the frame is upside down on a flat table surface for two blocks with an edge of four centimeters, and the spindles should hang freely and not interfere with work. From the area where it is planned to install the axle, the paint is removed from the surface of the frame. The distance between the bushings is measured, it must be divided in half, a mark is made on the axis with a felt-tip pen.

Control measurements are made as follows: the size of the frame width is divided in half, the resulting value must be noted from the center of the axis (in this case, the position is adjusted) and only after these actions can the final installation be started.

The connection of the constituent parts is made by the method of spot welding throughout the contact. It is best to take a spring-damping suspension, even if it does not have increased strength, but with it the trailer of a car with its own hands will acquire a soft ride when driving.

Stabilization jacks

They are needed to keep the trailer in a horizontal position. The optimal places for their location are the inner corners of the frame, but you can install them only on one of the sides. To use the lifting force, it would be more correct to use the principle of a screw mechanism; it can also be used when replacing one of the wheels.

board device

In the manufacture of side walls, you can use wood boards, metal fragments, plywood panels or polycarbonate, the choice of material type depends on the purpose of the device. Due to the low weight and convenient form of processing, wood or plywood is most often used, initially the flooring from the boards is attached to the base, it must be bolted, and the main box is also bolted to this base. But to give reliability, it is recommended to attach steel corners to the corners of the box.

Summing up

Even a self-made car trailer can greatly increase the potential of a car. It will be possible to transport goods of various shapes and configurations on it, without fear of harming the cabin or trunk. There are a lot of trailer options, and the above recommendations can be used for any of them. In addition to the described units and elements, the trailer can be equipped with a braking and lighting system. But it would be better to entrust the work of this class to professionals from the service center.

Car owners often have to deal with the problem of carrying loads that are bulkier than can fit in the trunk. Trailers are sold for this purpose. Although it happens that there is no money for a trailer, but it is necessary to transport goods.

Therefore, many motorists find a way out in the manufacture of a trailer on their own. Moreover, such work brings moral satisfaction. Gaining and improving work experience.

What you need to create a trailer on your own

First of all, you need materials. Durable metal tubes. Corners and channels of different markings, so that there is plenty to choose from. Strips of strong sheet steel, different sizes. It is advisable to get springs somewhere. Or make them.

Need a tool. The more variety of tools, the better. Work will be more convenient and hassle-free. A welding machine is a must. A drilling machine or drill is a must have too. Grinding machine (compact grinding machines are now sold that do not take up much space).

A sledgehammer, a hammer, a chisel, wrenches, a caliper, taps, a tap wrench (if necessary, you need to cut the thread yourself somewhere) - this is an incomplete list of what you need. If everything is there, we proceed to implementation.

How to start making a trailer

You can draw your own drawing. Can be found online. Now there are a lot of them in technical sites. You have to choose a drawing. Choosing, we determine how many wheels there will be. Usually make two-wheeled. If desired, you can make a four-wheeled, and even with a jack, a dump type. For simplicity of example, here is a drawing of a conventional two-wheeled trailer:

You need to start making a trailer from the frame. On the concrete floor of the garage or in some other room adapted for this, lay out all the pre-prepared materials for the frame. And sequentially, after measuring, trimming - to weld parts of the structure with each other. For some reason, many sites say that the frame must be made of pipes. Although practice shows that it is more convenient, it is more practical to make a frame from the corners.

There is also this: in some places, two corners connect the joint to the joint, weld the joint of the joint. It turns out a configuration similar to a small section channel. Very durable material. It is not needed everywhere. Although in some places you can not do without such material.

This is done the other way around, upside down. That is, the frame is welded first, then the sides. The lower frame of the frame part is welded to the sides from above. In the center of the resulting frame, a wheel shaft is arranged, fixed in glasses with bearings. Both the shaft and the cups for bearings are mounted on springs. Which are connected to the frame by a reverse connection. Like in this picture:

Please note that the movable spring reverser will allow the trailer to gently and smoothly overcome bumps if they are during the journey. It is for this that additional joints are needed at the spring, when fixing it on the frame.

Further work on the creation of the trailer

Initially, you need to take care of the correct centering of the mobile device. So that there is not a big advantage in one direction. This is especially true for two-wheeled trailers. Such a device should slightly outweigh (not much) forward. Then, when uncoupling from the machine, the drawbar (in other words - a leash) will naturally lie on the surface of the room.

Let's return directly to the creation of the trailer. After the base is made, the springs are fixed and installed - we strengthen the shaft for the wheels with bearings in glasses closed from dust and dirt. Then we put on the wheels. We fix them on bolts or futorki. Depending on who has what wheel mounting device. When the wheels are installed, without turning the device over yet, it is necessary to strengthen the traction that will go to the car. Traction, or leash - may look like this:

Here the leash is in the form of a single metal hollow tube of square section. Often, for a more stable position, the leash is made of two drawbars converging towards each other. Which form a triangular connection. Here in this picture, where the trailer is more spacious, the leash is triangular.

It is almost invisible, because it is lowered onto a concrete slab in front, but you can guess that the leash is triangular, consisting of two drawbars connected in front into one knot with a fastener. A leash is attached using a hitch called a tow bar. There should not be any gag here.

Without a towbar on a leash, the trailer will not be registered with the traffic police. For safety reasons, a standardized approach is used here with the installation of ready-made towbars for sale. Here is what this device looks like:

It's cheap, no problem buying it. The towbar can be bolted with nuts to the drawbar or welded.

Finished by strengthening the sides. Someone closes up the body with thick plywood. Someone reinforces the sides with wire mesh. Some weld thin sheets of tin to the side frame. Then you can paint. Who likes what. The last thing: you need to register a home-made mobile vehicle - a trailer in the traffic police. To do this, you must comply with a number of requirements that are the same for everyone. For safety.

The first video, titled "Homemade Trailer," shows the steps involved in building a two-wheeled trailer.

In the second video “Business idea in the garage. Homemade trailer dump truck of the original design "- a craftsman, a master of his craft, created a four-wheeled roomy trailer - a dump truck. The video shows the moment he tests the body for strength with the body raised. Both videos can be found on youtube.