How to lay a floor from an edged board. Do-it-yourself floorboard laying. Wooden floor on floor beams

Choosing the right floorboard is just as important as the design of the floor. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the logs.

In the general case, the floor board can be any lumber fixed on the logs. Most often, this name is understood as a tongue-and-groove board. This is lumber that has three processed "finish" sides - two ends and one plane - the front side. On the sides, tongues are formed with a special machine: a groove on one side, a spike on the other. When laying, the spike is driven into the groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks formed during drying. Moreover, even a slightly dry tongue-and-groove floor looks good.

A board with a tongue and groove can have a comb of various shapes. It is most convenient in laying if it has a conical shape. The cone easily enters even in the presence of a slight curvature of the boards. It is much more difficult to fight with a rectangular spike. If there are deviations, the board is not perfect, then you either have to suffer with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the segments. It turns out a completely different, untidy look.

Also, floor boards come with a quarter-shaped protrusion. This is when half the width of the board is removed on one side from below, on the other - from above. This type is even easier to install than a traditional tenon-groove board, while the floor looks just as good.

There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45 °. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary edged board is laid on the floor - it has a rectangular shape in cross section. It is placed close - end-to-end - and so fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about baths, then when installing leaking floors, it is the edged board that will be the best option. In other cases, it is necessary to give preference to options with any kind of locks: when drying, cracks are not so noticeable.

In addition to the grooved board from the array, there is also a glued one. It consists of several boards glued together. At the same time, the wood fibers are arranged in such a way that under any conditions its geometry remains practically unchanged. If it does change, it is many times less than massive. But due to the complexity of manufacturing such material, its prices are high. But the floor of the glued board is almost guaranteed to be flat.

Types of floorboard locks

There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a deck board. It differs in that its front part is not even, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on it. It is rarely used indoors, mainly due to the fact that it is very difficult to bring an uneven surface to an ideal state. But when building a bath, it can come in handy if you arrange a pool or font on the porch. Having laid a decking around the pool, you can not be afraid that someone will slip.

Terrace board looks very attractive on the floor

Any kind of lumber is in the category "euro". There is a floor board, grooved or not, there is a terraced one. The whole difference is in the presence of a longitudinally located groove on the back side, which contributes to better ventilation. There must be a difference in the quality of the wood: no knots. But the best quality is not always available, and higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material, geometry.

Types of wood for the floor

Any wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and material possibilities. The purpose of the space can also play a role.

For baths, a coniferous board is traditionally placed on the floor. It is the most inexpensive, and its quality indicators are not bad. Coniferous species contain a large amount of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which prolongs their life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce is that they are soft rocks and if there are a lot of people steaming, they are quickly erased. But if the bath is family, occasionally visited, then such wood will stand for a long time.

If we talk specifically about the premises, then larch will behave better in “wet” conditions: it only becomes stronger from water. It is better to lay pine and spruce in a locker room or a rest room. They cannot stand the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat the wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely begin to rot.

They put wood and hardwood on the floor, but it is more prone to decay, and even more often darkens from water. There are still some nuances that are determined only by experience. For example, oak wood is durable, not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: it is very slippery when wet. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip rugs.

It looks like a tongue-and-groove euro-board in profile

When installing a double plank floor for roughing and finishing, the boards must be taken from the same wood. For the subfloor, unedged will go (be sure to remove the bark and process from bugs), for the finishing - edged, grooved. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to different amounts of expansion and contraction, when temperature and humidity change, the floor may lead.

Floor board dimensions

The minimum thickness of boards for laying on the floor is determined by the step of laying the lag. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the greater the thickness of the lumber needed.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation step of the lag

But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some margin: taking into account the fact that periodically it will be necessary to update the appearance - to grind, removing the top layer. If the thickness is taken "back to back", after one or two grindings, the floorboards will begin to sag underfoot and creak - not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of the "dancing" boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag step (increase their number), which is also not fun.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and faster laying. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.

When choosing the width of the boards in the bath, there are also some nuances. It is better not to take wide boards: with increasing humidity, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that it becomes problematic to walk. Therefore, in the steam room or shower room, a narrow or medium-width board is used.

How many boards in one cubic meter

Having decided on the size of the floorboards, you need to calculate how many of them you need to buy: lumber is sold per cubic meter.

There are no strict standards in this industry, just as there is no clear distinction between varieties. Some producers distinguish only two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to focus on the spot.

The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are still not visible under the paint. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not "dead" - black. Black knots crumble and fall asleep, but we don't need it.

There is only a more or less established standard in length: 6 meters. But many sawmills make both three and two-meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three meters will cost less than six meters. So if you do not need a long board, look for the right size: it will be cheaper.

Now about how to count the number of cube boards. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will lay a board 40 * 150 mm. Convert millimeters to meters:

40 mm = 0.04 m, 150 m = 0.15 m

We will take a standard length of 6 m. The total will be 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m = 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards will be in one cube (we divide the unit by 0.036) we get 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the number of any board or beam. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number in a cubic meter are calculated and listed in the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take with a margin of at least 10-15% (and preferably 30%). Firstly, marriage always occurs, and secondly, most likely in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a “propeller”. And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those bought from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either it will not work in thickness, or there will be problems with the tongue and groove. In general, a few pieces should lie in reserve for a couple of years.

How to choose

First of all, you need to determine the humidity. The best option for baths is an average humidity of about 20-25%. If you take a board of natural moisture, it will lead during drying, there will be a lot of “skis” and “propellers”. Then they can only be used in the construction of fences. If you take overdried - chamber drying - in conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is the average humidity.

First of all, when buying, you need to check the geometry. When choosing an edged board, pay attention to the fact that the edges are even. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, you need to check this parameter when buying any sorted lumber (except for unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board on one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.

When buying grooved boards, you also need to pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the tongue and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly tuned machine, the opposite is often the case. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to make a floor without cracks. You will either have to change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the spike.

There is another mistake that is made in the production of grooved boards: the upper edge above the spike (crest) is more profiled than the lower one. With such a defect, gaps are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this drawback. Only special equipment is required.

You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked in piles, shifting with bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then, when laying, it will be problematic to dock them.

All these shortcomings are revealed quite simply. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the flaws are immediately visible. Estimate the dimensions of the tenon and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly located above the tenon. If everything is fine, take two boards and join them, as when laying. If their geometry is not broken, they are combined easily and without gaps. If the tests are successful, the tongue-and-groove floorboard can be taken: you will lay it quickly and easily.

How and what to fix

A few years ago, there were no discrepancies: the floorboard was nailed to the joists with nails through and through. Sometimes the hat was flattened and then driven deep into the chisel - this was so that nothing could be seen. Today you can do the same. And save at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after a while, a large number of cracks appear in the wooden floor. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added near the wall - as it will. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle without damaging the wood. And you try to get a nail with a flattened head and not break the wood. No way. Therefore, more and more often they “sit” on self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: nails are stronger, and hats often fly off on self-tapping screws, especially hardened ones.

In a thorn or in a groove?

For hidden fastening, self-tapping screws are not fixed through the boards, but into a spike or groove. It is possible through and through, into the face, but then the hats will need to be drowned in the board, and the holes should be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in baths. If you take wood putty of the appropriate color, and mix some wood dust from your boards into it, then almost nothing will be visible even under light varnish.

If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60 °. If in a spike, then the angle is smaller - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more securely (captures ¾ of the thickness), although the “groove” method is more common.

In any case, you first need to drill a hole for the cap with a larger diameter drill and a smaller one for the screw shaft. This operation, although time-consuming, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.

Hidden fastening technology

The technology of hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through and through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better, they are attracted with clamps so that there are no gaps anywhere. Then fasteners are screwed into the groove or spike at an angle or clogged. If the wood is dense, the screws go hard. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).

With this method of fastening, neither nails nor screws are visible. But, if there is one drawback: only one edge of the board turns out to be attracted to the log. With changes in humidity, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, the other may rise. It turns out the floor is uneven, and it creaks more often. Although, it is never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few self-tapping screws into the face.

What to take self-tapping screws

What screws to use for flooring in the bath? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the cap itself. This will make it safer to keep. And it’s better to take non-hot ones - they are stronger. For a bath, it is better - galvanized - they will not rust. The length of the screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times larger. It seems that according to the parameters of self-tapping screws - everything. With nails, everything is simpler: you need ordinary ones, but not screw or corrugated ones - it is almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.

It is better to take self-tapping screws with a thread that does not start from the cap itself

There is one secret inherited from the ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in the bath, but they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use. Such nails were used to nail the shingles to the roofs, and they did not rust for decades.

So: with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners, you need to decide on your own. There are different opinions, and they are all based on experience - one's own or ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add more of yours. But remember that in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out. So for the first time it is worth fixing on a minimum of nails or self-tapping screws - as you decide. Then, already shrunken, it will be possible to fix it thoroughly.

How the floorboard is installed and how clamps are used to eliminate gaps, see the video.

A device for tightening floor boards can be made by hand according to the attached video instruction.

Not only the beauty of the room depends on the choice of flooring, but the durability and functionality of the floor. That is why many masters recommend making the floor from the boards. In addition, the installation of this material is so simple that you can make a floor from an edged board yourself. Such a floor covering is unpretentious in use, durable and reliable. And most importantly, depending on the choice of finishing method (painting, toning, impregnation with oil, varnish, etc.), you can give the room the desired look.

Edged board selection

Such wood is characterized by the absence of smell, as well as the preservation of appearance.

Before you make a floor from a board with your own hands, you need to choose the right wood. First of all, pay attention to the type of wood. Both the price per cube of material and the performance characteristics of the floor depend on this. For small rooms it is best to use coniferous wood elements - pine, fir, larch, cedar, spruce. This material is different:

antibacterial properties;
harmlessness (this floor is suitable even for allergy sufferers and asthmatics);
practicality, durability;
acceptable cost (the price of a pine board 4 cm thick is $ 60 per cube).

For children's and sleeping quarters, you can choose aspen or alder. Such wood is characterized by the absence of smell, as well as the preservation of its appearance: even after many years of operation, the floor will look like new. In the photo of the interiors on the network, you can see how beautiful the aspen or alder board looks in the room.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following product parameters:

Dryness degree. It is better to use a non-wet material, otherwise the service life of the coating will be short. Since it is not possible to check the degree of moisture content of the wood at the time of purchase, we recommend buying the flooring in advance so that it can mature in the room where it will be installed and adapt to its conditions.
Product quality. There should be no visible defects on the surface.
Design. To match the pattern and color scheme of the elements, purchase material from the same batch.
The size of the element. It is better to use floorboards with a length of at least 2 m. Usually, a cut board has the following dimensions: thickness 25-45 mm, and width 85-130 mm. Preference should be given to thicker products for their durability. The price per cubic meter also depends on the dimensions. So, 25 mm thick elements cost $46 per cubic meter, and the price of a 30 mm thick product is $58 per cubic meter.
Compound. For quick DIY installation, choose sanded and tongue-and-groove floorboards.

Important: when purchasing flooring, it is worth buying 15-20% more material. This is due to the peculiarities of laying, because some of the elements in the process will have to be slightly shortened.

Preparatory work

Logs and linings under them are treated with flame retardants and antiseptics to protect against burning and decay

Edged boards can be laid on logs and a concrete base. At the same time, it is important to carefully level the floor, so a two-layer structure is often used, consisting of a rough base and a finishing floor. Therefore, when calculating the price of the floor, it is worth considering the purchase of materials for the base device.

Before you make the floor with your own hands, it is worth preparing the material. To do this, the logs and linings under them are treated with flame retardants and antiseptics to protect against burning and decay. Also, the base of the floor needs waterproofing. To do this, you can use penofol or ordinary polyethylene.

Laying the floor on the logs

Leveling the floor surface with lags

To level the floor with large jumps in height, it is better to use logs. The optimal size of the beam for the log is 100x50 mm. For more information about laying flooring from boards on logs, see the video suggested at the end of the article. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

First, the installation of the extreme logs at opposite walls is carried out. Further, all other elements are stacked with a certain step along the stretched cord. Insulation can be placed in the space between the lags.

Important to know: the pitch of the timber depends on the thickness of the boards. For products with a thickness of 3-4 cm, the lag step is 800 mm. Boards with a thickness of less than 3 cm are laid on logs installed in increments of 50-60 cm. Boards thicker than 4 cm can be mounted on beams laid in increments of 1 m.

All logs are leveled and attached to the concrete base with self-tapping screws and dowels or anchors.
After installing the log, a rough flooring is made of fiberboard.
Next, you can do the finishing flooring with your own hands. At the same time, the size of the boards is selected so that the butt joint of all elements falls on the central axis of the log. The first row is laid, stepping back from the wall 15 mm. Elements are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws.
After laying all the boards, the skirting boards are installed. They will close the gaps between the flooring and the walls.

Plywood flooring

An example of laying plywood on logs for additional alignment

Plywood can be a good option for subfloors on a relatively flat base. With its help, you can level the old wooden or concrete base. Plywood practically does not deform, it is strong and reliable. However, the use of such a subfloor is not recommended in places with high humidity.

Plywood can be laid on a wooden crate or directly on a concrete surface. For its fixation, anchors, corners, self-tapping screws are used. The first laying method is suitable for uneven grounds. The size and pitch of the lathing beam depends on the thickness of the plywood and the unevenness of the base.

The installation process is so simple that it can be understood from the photo above:

First, a crate of timber is constructed on the floor. It needs to be aligned horizontally. The crate is attached to the base with self-tapping screws and dowels.
Further, to protect against condensation, the wooden crate is covered with glassine.
Now you can lay plywood. All joints of sheets should fall on the bars of the crate. A gap of 1.5-2 mm is left between adjacent plates to protect against deformation. Plywood is fastened with screws to the crate.
After that, you can lay edged boards in the same way as described in the first laying method.

Laying on a concrete base

Sometimes, in order to level the concrete base in a low room, a screed is made. Plank flooring can be done directly on the screed. However, to protect the boards from contact with concrete, it is necessary to make insulation from a primer mastic or polyethylene foam.

Graphic scheme for laying edged boards on logs

Sanded boards are laid out on the floor and numbered. Age rings on adjacent elements should look in different directions.
Laying is carried out from the wall with an indent of 15 mm. This slot is needed for floor ventilation.
Nails are hammered in at an angle with a deepening of the cap.
After mounting the first element at a distance of 40-60 mm, staples with a gap are driven into the wooden draft floor, logs or lathing bars. Then a wedge is driven between the board and the bracket. This will allow you to tightly press the edges of adjacent elements.
After that, the board is fixed with nails. Staples and wedge are removed. After a couple of rows of boards, you can again use staples and a wedge to tightly connect the elements. All boards are additionally compacted with a mallet.
To make it easier to install the last board, the tongue can be leveled with a planer. Then the board is glued and nailed with nails, which will subsequently hide under the plinth.

Video instruction for laying edged boards on log beams:

Before laying plank floors as a topcoat, you need to choose the right material, prepare the base and lay several insulating layers in the cake. The wooden floor can be laid on beams or hollow, full-bodied monolithic slabs.

It is mandatory to use hydro and vapor barrier, acoustic materials and insulation are used as needed. A water heated floor under a grooved board is not effective.

The quality of the material depends on the comfort of living, the budget for repair and operation, the resource of the floor covering.

In the manufacture of sheet piles, manufacturers are required to comply with the requirements of GOST 8242:

Important! The thickness of the sheet pile affects its rigidity and strength, therefore, for the BP-27 bar and the DP-35 board, the beam / log spacing is 0.6 m, and for the DP-21 sheet pile it is reduced to 30 cm.

lumber quality

A sheet pile is made from a board of edged grade Extra, A or B, the output parameters are controlled in accordance with GOST 8242:

integrity - a board with a width of 6 - 14 cm is usually solid, wider products are glued using furniture board technology;
cleanliness of processing - roughness of 120 microns for varnishing, 200 microns for painting, 500 microns have the back surfaces of lumber;
humidity - 8% when packaged in a film or 12%;

A wide board is more convenient to work with, it is usually made by gluing, therefore it is less prone to warping. Coniferous pine / spruce are considered budgetary, larch and cedar are valuable species, by default impregnated with a natural antiseptic. A sheet pile that is one-piece in length without splicing from hardwood is always shorter than coniferous. This is due to the structure of the wood.

Prohibited species for floorboards are:

linden, poplar for the entire range;
BP-27 and DP-27 from aspen and alder are suitable exclusively for residential premises;
DP-35 is not made from alder and aspen.

Important! On the back side, the tongue has several narrow or one wide cut, which is necessary for air circulation and compensation of internal stresses in the wood.

Foundation preparation

The sheet piling is laid either on logs / beams, less often on the subfloor, depending on the specific tasks being solved and additional conditions that need to be taken into account:

solid flooring of the subfloor is more expensive than a subsystem of a bar or board on the edge as a log, laid every 30 - 60 cm;
attic and basement floors must be insulated, isolated from wet vapors;
Acoustic materials with reflective and absorbing properties are often laid inside interfloor ceilings.

If the grooved board is planned as a finishing coating for floor slabs, the logs are mounted on a screed. Or across the beams on floors of this type, only if the step of the beams does not correspond to the design size (more than 60 cm).

Waterproofing

Regardless of the floor, moisture can penetrate into the floors, therefore, when making a wooden floor with your own hands on beams or reinforced concrete slabs, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of the design:

waterproofing is created from dense membranes, welded roll materials or polyethylene films (2 layers of 150 microns minimum);
applied in a continuous layer;
enters the walls by 15 cm;
joints are sealed.

If the wooden floor is made along the logs on the slab, the waterproofing is laid on the leveling layer (screed or expanded clay sand). After installation, the floor slabs have significant irregularities; without a leveling layer, the film can be torn by soles when walking.

Waterproofing wooden floors on floor slabs.

Floor beams do not provide a continuous rigid horizontal layer. Therefore, a binder is attached to them:

edged board from below, which is the ceiling of the lower floor
pieces of edged board over a cranial bar fixed along the beams in the lower level

Vapor barrier of a wooden floor on beams.

Important! The vapor barrier in this case is laid over the boarding of the filing and over the beams, that is, not at the same level, but in steps.

thermal insulation

Since the contours of a water-heated floor are not used under the wooden finishing floor coverings, the interfloor ceilings along the beams are not insulated. However, thermal insulation is necessary inside floors that are in contact with unheated levels - attic, underground. In an unexploited and unheated attic, a tongue-and-groove board is not used, since the premises are non-residential. However, for walking here, an edged board or shields made of this material can be laid. In this case, you should take into account the nuances:

the waterproofing layer is not able to completely prevent the penetration of moisture into the structure of the overlap;
wood (beams and logs) absorbs this moisture, but cannot evaporate back if steam-tight polystyrene foam is laid around it;
decay, reproduction of mold, fungus, pathogens begins.

Therefore, inside a wooden floor or between logs from a bar on a reinforced concrete slab, it is necessary to lay mineral wool or Ecowool. These heaters are hygroscopic, they also absorb moisture and do not interfere with its evaporation from adjacent wooden structures.

Soundproofing

In a conventional mineral wool insulation, basalt or fiberglass fibers are oriented horizontally. In special soundproof mineral wool, they have a vertical orientation. Therefore, one layer of heat or sound insulation does not solve all problems.

In screeds on floor slabs, complex sound insulation is used:

layer of elastic material - partial absorption of airborne and structural noise;
a layer of concrete with a minimum thickness of 5 - 6 cm - the screed has a large mass, reflects part of the wave that has penetrated through the previous layer.

Floor soundproofing.

When making a boardwalk on your own, there is no massive concrete screed by default, the efficiency of the soundproofing structure is sharply reduced, and it will not be possible to significantly increase the level of sound insulation.

vapor barrier

After the wood and insulation have absorbed the moisture that has penetrated into them, these materials begin to evaporate it. The task in this case is to ensure that moisture is freely removed from the beams and insulation, but not to let excess moisture out of the room back. For this, special membranes are used that allow steam to pass in only one direction.

it freely passes moisture through itself;
moisture condenses on the outer surface of the membrane;
is discharged by natural ventilation in a specially provided air layer inside the wooden floor.

Boardwalk vapor barrier.

For circulation under the grooved board, the cuts on its back surface are responsible. In order for air to enter the structure and freely exit outside, ventilation hatches are made in the boardwalk, decorated with gratings. They are placed diagonally in the room near the plinth in the least visible places.

Appointment lag

In different floor designs, lags solve the same tasks:

floor slabs - under the finish coat, it is necessary to hide the insulation, sound insulation and provide a ventilated space, so the tongue is nailed or screwed with screws to the logs;
wooden floor - logs are needed with a large distance between the beams in order to eliminate the deflection of the tongue-and-groove board;
ensuring a horizontal level - gaskets, polymer wedges or studs of a leveling floor are used;
providing a space box - inside which you can lay insulating materials.

Logs are made either from a board 50 x 150 mm or from a bar of a suitable section. To ensure vertical stability, braces and spacers can be mounted between them.

wood floor technology

Before laying the wooden floor in the rooms, you should take into account the nuances:

even after special treatment, wood is not recommended to be used in rooms with high humidity;
by analogy with a log house, the flooring will inevitably shrink, so not all boards are fixed in a row, but only in the first, every fourth and last row;
after 6 - 12 months, the coating is sorted out, the gaps between the floorboards are eliminated by repeated tightening, bent and warped boards are replaced with new ones.

Lumber in a wooden house is easiest to treat with flame retardant and antiseptic before laying, and then only soak the cut points when cutting it. For the convenience of developers, manufacturers produce colored fire protection so that the surface is evenly treated with a protective compound.

Laying scheme

Rows of tongue-and-groove boards are located across beams or logs. In wooden floor structures, there is no choice of floorboard orientation relative to window and door openings. On reinforced concrete slabs, the logs can be oriented in any direction.

in complex projects, rooms have an original configuration;
during construction, errors are made due to which opposite walls are not parallel to each other;
if it is possible to choose the orientation of the floorboards, it is better to place them with their butt against non-parallel walls.

Advice! The diagonal layout of the grooved board is not recommended. Otherwise, when rallying after 6 - 12 months, to eliminate cracks from shrinkage of lumber, the floorboards in each row will have to be cut near the walls.

Grooved board installation

To lay a wooden floor from a profiled sheet pile, you must perform the following sequence of actions:

Clamps, jacks or wedges are used for rallying. Gaps between floorboards are not allowed. Boards of standard width 6.4 - 14 cm are attached on one side, with a wider face - on both sides along the width of the floorboard. Fastening is carried out through with recessing the head of the nail / self-tapping screw or at 45 degrees into the groove. In the latter case, the maintainability of the floor covering is sharply reduced.

Since the wall-mounted sheet pile will inevitably have to be additionally rallied after six months - one year of drying, it is better to fasten it vertically during initial installation, and during final installation after a specified period - into the lock at 45 degrees. In 85% of cases, the tongue is painted, less often it is opened with two layers of varnish.

Read more about the nuances of tongue and groove board flooring.

Thus, in a private house, it is possible to lay a tongue and groove boardwalk both on beams and on floor slabs. All work is available for self-fulfillment, professional equipment and tools are not required.

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For flooring, wood is the most environmentally friendly, and therefore demanded material. Ironically enough, plank flooring was unfashionable some time ago. If a wooden floor had already been laid in the resulting apartment, they tried to quickly close it with more modern materials, without even thinking about their safety for the health of residents.

You need to know that any floor coverings made of artificial materials, to one degree or another, emit substances that adversely affect human health. The tree, on the other hand, has only positive characteristics for the device in residential premises, not only floor coverings, but also other finishing elements. It has the advantage not only because it is a natural material, but also due to its good thermal insulation properties and the ability to create the most comfortable microclimate in housing.

Conifers are excellent for flooring in a house, and larch wood is especially suitable for this, as it is not afraid of high humidity and temperature changes.

A properly prepared and laid larch floor does not crack or deform, even after serving for a very long time. In addition, larch has natural antiseptic properties, so putrefactive processes do not occur on it - this wood has a detrimental effect on microorganisms.

Any wooden floor consists of several layers, at least two are the base and the wooden coating. But, over time, with the advent of new materials, floor designs improved and new schemes arose with the addition of the necessary elements of the overall design. Whatever building neither had wooden floor, it must meet certain requirements:

Durability and reliability;

moisture resistance;

Wear resistance and durability;

Easy to clean and hygienic;

Aesthetics of the coating;

Thermal insulation and sound insulation;

Simplicity in the device design.

If all these conditions are tried on a wooden coating, then you can see that well-treated wood meets all the above requirements. The main thing to do is to choose the right floor design suitable for a particular room. There are several types of flooring from the board:

Floors on a concrete floor, when the boards are laid directly on the base, but are not attached to it, but are connected only to each other. This design is called "floating";

Floors on concrete covered with plywood;

Construction on beams, arranged on the ground;

Floors laid on logs fixed to floor beams.

These are the most common options for laying the floor, and each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. From this list, you need to choose the only type that is ideal for the room where it should be laid.

Wooden floor on floor beams

In this system, the boardwalk is laid on logs, which are fixed to the floor beams - they are the carriers for the entire floor structure. In this case, the floor system is well protected from moisture, as it is raised above the ground to a certain height and is closed from it with a waterproofing material. Besides the fact that this construction is reliable and durable for wooden flooring, it gives the necessary rigidity to the entire structure of the house.

However, you need to know that a large empty underground space has good sound transmission, and extraneous noise can be transmitted into the room. In order to exclude such a negative moment, this space is covered with expanded clay.

In addition, if the plank covering is laid directly on the beams, without using lags, then vibration noise will also enter the house through the walls of the building. Therefore, under the logs, which must be laid perpendicular to the beams, they place noise-absorbing materials - thick rubber, felt impregnated with antiseptic agents, pieces of insulation or other devices that can dampen the transmitted vibrations and prevent extraneous noise from being transmitted into the room.

Under the plank floor, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material, which is fixed to the logs, and boards are laid on top of it.

Floors on a foundation of pillars

In order for the floors to be raised above the ground to a certain height, a columnar foundation is often used. The floor beams in this case are not rigidly connected to the foundation of the house and to its walls - such a floor is called "floating".

It is good because when the soil subsides under the walls, this process will not touch the floor, and it will not deform. Conversely, if one of the pillars changes his position for some reason, the walls will remain intact. The advantage of this floor is that the repair etc you have to do not the whole house, but one of its elements - this will reduce both time and costs.

In such a design, it should be taken into account that the logs and boards are located at a distance of at least 15-20 mm from the wall, and a heater is installed between them, which will allow the underground space to "breathe" and the coating itself, if necessary, expand.

For the construction of such a foundation, several holes are dug at a distance of 1-1, 5 meters from each other - these will be the places where the posts are installed.
The columns are laid out of brick or completely cast from concrete.
Further, after the cement hardens, the posts are covered with a waterproofing material.

Logs are laid on top of it. You should not save on their thickness, it is best to choose thick reliable beams. You can make a crate of two layers - first powerful beams, and fix thinner logs perpendicular to them.
It must be remembered that if the bars do not have the desired length, which covers the entire room, then their joints must be on the posts. The logs must be leveled using a two-meter building level.
If a draft floor is arranged, then the design acquires greater rigidity and reliability. In addition, it will serve as a good base for laying insulation materials.
If it is abandoned for some reason, then a dense vapor barrier film can serve as an alternative to it. It is fixed to the logs in such a way that it sags a little - then it will be easy to lay insulation mats on it. It is also recommended to lay a layer of the same film on top of the insulation so that the smallest particles of the material do not enter the living quarters. After all these preparatory activities carried out, you can proceed to the flooring of the boards.

Laying boards

Boards are best purchased such that have a thickness of at least 30 mm and are made of coniferous wood. The direction of laying the boards must also be chosen correctly. According to experts, it is better to lay the flooring perpendicular to the wall on which the window openings are arranged, therefore, it is necessary to think over the location of the boardwalk from the moment the posts are installed and the beams are laid on them.

In order for the floors to be of high quality and retain heat in the premises, you need to choose well-dried tongue-and-groove boards. There are two ways to fix boards on logs:

Nails are driven in (or screws are twisted) through the upper plane of the board;

Driving or screwing is done in a ridge (spike) located on the side of the board, at an angle of about 45 degrees. So that the head of a nail or self-tapping screw does not interfere with the connection of the elements of the material to each other, it must be drowned in wood.

The first board is set indented from the wall by 15-20 mm, and fixed to each log with nails. The distance between the wall and the board will later be closed with a plinth, but first it is recommended to lay an elastic insulation in this gap.
Boards can be interconnected in different ways, which can be clearly seen in the picture. These are the three main types of connections:

1. With the help of an insert rail.

2. By the "groove-thorn" method or tongue and groove.

3. In a quarter.

Last - the most optimal way, therefore the most popular. It allows you to create a smooth single coating with almost imperceptible joints, and will not allow cold and moisture to penetrate into the living space.

Proper flooring necessarily includes a period of complete drying of the coating, which takes place within 7-10 months. After this time, gaps may appear between the boards, and the floor will require re-laying. Therefore, when laying the coating for the first time, it is not recommended to fasten all the boards to the logs - only every fifth or seventh board is nailed.
When the floor is dry, remove all skirting boards and remove the loose middle board.
Further, all free boards are shifted, tightly pressed against each other, then nailed to each log. Sometimes it is necessary to use a mallet to tightly connect the boards with the “groove-thorn” lock - they tap the boards through a wooden gasket-bar, tightly driving the thorn into the groove.
To firmly set the last board, wooden wedges are usually used, driven between it and the wall.
The gap between the fastened sheets of boards should not exceed 1 mm in width. If the boards do not fully enter the groove, and the slots are wide, then the board is dismantled again and all the irregularities that interfere with the normal connection are eliminated.

Many maters use their tricks to fit boards tightly. So, the presented video demonstrates installation using a homemade clamp.

Video - installation of the floorboard with a screw clamp

double floors

This type of floor, already mentioned above, is much warmer and more reliable than a single flooring, as it consists of two layers and a layer of insulation. The bottom layer is called the "black floor" and it is made in different ways, depending on what kind of insulation material will be used.

It is most often mounted from third-rate boards, not necessarily perfectly even, and fixed at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. This design option can be used if rolled insulation is used or made in the form of mats. We should not forget about the vapor barrier, which is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer.

When using bulk insulation, such as slag, expanded clay, shavings and other materials, the boards are nailed tightly to each other with gaps of minimum size. If the insulation has a fine fraction, then the gaps of the "black floor" will have to be repaired. It is best to use a clay mixture for this. Clay is a natural material that blends well with wood, allowing it to "breathe", but some people prefer to use a thick lime mortar for smearing.

In any case, the putty should dry well before insulation is poured into the openings of the "black floor".

A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation material, which must be fixed to the logs with brackets using a construction stapler.

A plank floor will be laid on top of the vapor barrier in compliance with all the recommendations outlined earlier.

Board flooring on plywood

Floorboard flooring on plywood can be done both directly on the concrete floor and on the logs.

Flooring on plywood laid on concrete

Concrete must be well prepared, free of dust and debris on its surface. Cleaned and dust-free concrete pavement primed and dries up.
Further, plywood can be laid on it and fixed with anchor fasteners, or glued to polymer glue and also fixed with anchors.
In the second case, an adhesive layer is applied to the primed concrete and plywood is laid, with the rows shifted by half the sheet. This layout will contribute to the rigidity of the base under the plank flooring.
You can lay a thin roll insulation on plywood, but if the floor is warm enough, then you can do without it.
The boards are laid at a distance of 15-20 mm from the wall, but in such a way that the planned plinth completely covers the gap between the board and the wall. Narrow strips of insulating material can be laid in this gap.
If short boards are laid, then they should also be mounted with a shift of each row by half the length. Thus, all even rows start with half the board, and odd rows start with a solid canvas.
The board is fixed to the plywood with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the spike so that the head is completely recessed into the wood.
They adjust the boards to each other with a mallet and a piece of wood or in other available ways.

Laying boards on plywood laid on logs.

Logs can be laid not only in a wooden house and on load-bearing beams - they are also fixed on a concrete base, for additional floor insulation.

Clean concrete floor primed and is marked with lines along which the lags will be fixed. In this case, it should be taken into account that the bars should be located at a distance of 50-100 mm from the walls - insulation strips are laid in this gap.
Insulation is laid or covered between the logs, then covered with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the logs.
Plywood sheets are installed on the logs so that the joint of the sheets is in the middle of the beam.
Fastening plywood to the joists is easy - this is done with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver. The head of the screw must not protrude above the surface.

When the plywood is completely laid, proceed to laying the solid board. This process proceeds in the same way as in the previous cases.
The last step is to install a plinth around the entire perimeter of the room.

Interestingly, the floorboard itself can also be produced curvilinear - this gives the coating a very interesting look.

Video: an example of mounting a curved floorboard

A few tips for laying wood flooring and caring for it

As you know, any floor takes on heavy loads, which can eventually cause damage and deformation of the board. When such changes appear, which manifest themselves in the appearance of cracks and chips, creaking or even failures, you should not postpone repair measures. Timely preventive maintenance or removal of small flaws will allow the plank flooring to last for a long time.
Some work is easy to do on your own, and doing it is quite simple. For example, small gaps can be filled with two-component adhesives or sealant for wood surfaces.
Wide gaps are closed with the help of slats, which are driven into the holes that have appeared or the twine treated with glue is laid in them.
If you need to remove the creak, this can be done by simply screwing the board to the base with a self-tapping screw, removing the old nail, covering up the damage, or lifting the creaking board and placing the necessary substrate of an elastic or rigid material under it. Last resort, those boards that cannot be repaired are being replaced. In each case, an option is chosen.
If the floor surface is worn out, then you can try to turn the boards upside down - perhaps it has retained its original qualities and appearance. After carrying out this procedure, the floors will have to be cycled, and then coated with paint, varnish or wax. After such an update, the floors will receive their original appearance.
In order for any wooden floor covering to serve for a long time and have good resistance to abrasion, it is best to cover it with protective agents in three layers. But it is very important to take into account the fact that each layer must dry completely before the next one is applied. The first layer of the coating dries for about two to three days, as some part of the composition is actively absorbed into the wood. The second layer will dry out for four to five days, and the third must be given six to seven days, since it has nowhere to be absorbed, and it fixes all the lower layers with itself.

By itself, the installation of boards is quite simple, more problems will bring preparatory work. But in any case, if you act based on proven and proven technologies, it is quite possible to do this work yourself.

Have you decided to build a beautiful, warm and environmentally friendly house of your dreams? Then a rhetorical question will certainly become: what kind of floors will there be in this residential building? Of course, it will be a floor made of edged boards - and there should be no objections here.

To date, there are many options for synthetic flooring - all this looks very nice, easy to use, etc.

However, a masterfully laid plank floor made from good quality edged material:

first of all, it will advantageously decorate your new or overhauled house;
will make it home-style warm, cozy and, most importantly, durable.

In addition, such a coating is easy to care for, and it can also be repaired in a short time.

Edged lumber

Floor edged board - a material made (cut) from a log and sawn along the edges in such a way that no bark remains on its edges. The width of edged lumber is usually more than double the thickness. The range of application in the construction market significantly exceeds consumer demand for unedged analogues.

Today, the most popular wood species suitable for processing are:

spruce: has a looser structure, but is endowed with increased thermal insulation properties, more often used in interior decoration;
pine: most often used for the construction of frames (in the construction of floors, roofs).

Based on the requirements of GOST 8486-86 “Sawn timber from needles”, which describes the requirements for the production of timber, lining and edged boards from pine, spruce and other types of coniferous wood, the material is divided into five grades:

1 - 4 grades (differ in quality and price);
selected 5th grade.

GOST provides for all parameters of geometric dimensions, defects that occur both on the surface of wood and on its edges. The material is 85-130 mm wide, with a thickness of 25-45 mm.

Advice!
In order for the edged floor board to serve you for a long time, you should choose a thicker one.
When buying, make sure that there are as few knots and bark residues as possible.

Edged board flooring

If you had to do repairs in your own apartment with your own hands, you can easily master the laying of a new wooden floor.

The following coatings are commonly used:

parquet boards;
grooved and edged boards.

Factors when choosing flooring from edged boards

Hardwood floors are not cheap. However, if you buy edged lumber, the price of which is much lower, and even produce flooring without the involvement of outside dealers, your floor will come out cheaper even from a laminate.

What should be kept in mind when choosing floorboards?

There are the following factors:

Humidity percentage. It is almost impossible to check this factor locally, so we recommend purchasing floor boards in the fall, laying them in place so that the material rests, “acclimatizing” to your conditions.
When buying, carefully check the material for the presence of: cracks, chips, knots and rot. Before laying, be sure to treat the boards from the inside with water-based antiseptics (antiseptics).

Remember!
The instruction for laying floors from edged boards suggests: logs should be equipped on any type.

Most often, logs are made of beams 50x50 mm. They are attached to the concrete coating with anchors, clearly in level. After that, take boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm (ideal - 4-5 cm).

Step by step installation process

The first edged floorboard is laid parallel to the wall (the distance from it should be 1 cm, for which it is most convenient to use wedges of the appropriate thickness, driving them along the wall at a certain distance).
The board is attached to the lags (beams) with nails - two are driven in at all the intersections of the beam and the board. Hats should be completely "drowned".
When short boards hit, they should be laid to the middle of the log width. Each such end of the board is nailed with two nails.
Subsequent boards (4-5 rows) are applied tightly to each other, without hammering them with nails. The next (5th or 6th row) is laid at a short distance and lightly fixed with nails.

Now a pair of triangular wedges are cut out of any trim, which are inserted into the gap left. These wedges are driven with hammers towards each other, while compressing the floorboards.
In the presence of long rows, the number of wedges increases.
After that, the first rows are visually inspected for their tight contact, after which they are nailed.
The wedges and the separately “baited” board are removed and the operation with the next rows is repeated in the same order.
At the final stage, the laying of the last edged board remains, the width of which is adjusted using a jigsaw.

Summarizing

Ready and painted according to your choice, although it would be much more preferable to cover it with varnish: the natural unique pattern of the tree will remain in sight. Nowadays, you can choose a varnish of any shade you like.

As you can see, the process of laying edged boards is not complicated and is quite possible even for an inexperienced amateur craftsman. And the video in this article is ready to confirm all the information you read above!

Attention, only TODAY!

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