Musk, what a scent. White musk in perfumery, musky fragrances, fragrances with musk, M. Micallef Ananda, Montale Aoud Blossom, D`Orsay L' Intrigante. Musk in perfumery

Musk is a substance with a strong smell, animal or. For the first time, musk was found in the secret secreted by the musk gland of males of a small artiodactyl animal - the musk deer. It is used by them to attract females and mark territory. Musk has been found to act on humans as a powerful aphrodisiac.

This fragrance has been used in perfumery for centuries. In the East, musk, from the glands of the musk deer, was included in the composition of aromatic mixtures for rich caliphs and was even added to the plaster during the construction of mosques, so that, warming up in the sun, it exuded an unusual aroma. Musk-based fragrances were exported to Europe, and Arabs and Chinese used it, including for medicinal purposes to maintain men's health, in the treatment of heart diseases, etc.

In 1888, Bauer accidentally discovered synthetic musk. The substance contained nitroglycerin and was soon banned from use due to toxicity. But the beginning of the production of artificial musks was laid.

Unfortunately, in order to get musk, the animal is killed. When, at the turn of the 19th century, the number of musk deer decreased so much that some of its species were listed in the Red Book as an endangered species, the extraction of animal musk was sharply limited, and its cost increased to unprecedented levels, because more than 100 deer would have to be killed to obtain one kilogram of musk. Therefore, its market price can reach up to 45 thousand dollars per kilogram. In the middle of the 20th century, a method of humane extraction of musk was invented in Saudi Arabia, when male musk deer were caught and, after putting the animal to sleep with sleeping pills, the contents of the bag with the musk gland were removed. The animal was then released into the wild. However, this method required time and additional labor, so it was rarely used in practice.

Vegetable resources have become an alternative to animal resources. In India, the substance ambrettolide is extracted from musk hibiscus, from which perfumes, aromatic mixtures and incense are made. Plants such as garden angelica, ambrette and musk flower are also used in the perfume industry.

The musky scent is found in Narciso Rodriguez For Her Musk, Essence Eau de Musc, Amouage Gold for her, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Fraicheur Muskissime, Incense & Musk Henri Bendel and others.

What does musk smell like?

The smell of natural musk is difficult to describe, as it is very complex and controversial. In perfume compositions, it can range from sweet, powdery to spicy, leathery, and woody. In any case, musk is the aroma of passion, sensuality. Animal musk causes sexual desire in women and is considered a human pheromone. In other words, musk mimics the smell of the human body. Musk itself has an odor, which is why it is used by perfumers in small amounts as a base note.

One of the most common components of perfume products is, of course, musk. It is he who gives the spirits amazing depth, sensuality and piquancy. True, today this ingredient can not be found in all perfume products, at least in its pure form. This moment is due to the high cost of natural musk. At the same time, this substance still appears in the base composition and notes of any composition.

Why is muscle attractive?

In fact, you can still meet him only in selective perfumery. Musk deer musk not only smells attractive. It is also an excellent fragrance fixative, that is, it ensures the durability of a particular perfume product.

In addition, it is the strongest pheromone and aphrodisiac, both for women and men. The aroma of musk of natural animal origin is extremely complex, and it cannot be described by any associative terms.

But we are used to talking about deep woody compositions as "musky", regardless of whether the component is present in its pure form.

Real animal musk is a specific product of natural origin, produced by special glands of males of some mammals - musk deer, muskrat, musk deer, civet and muskrat. Some perfumers are now replacing such valuable products with beaver musk. Actually, this substance in a beaver is not too inferior to the substance of other forest "brothers".

In nature, musk is necessary for the male to mark his own territory, attracting females to it and warning other males of its boundaries. In beavers and other waterfowl, this substance serves to lubricate the wool in order to protect it from getting wet. Yes, it is precisely such a prosaic substance that appears in the valuable expensive perfumes of the selective segment. Mass market perfumers prefer to use synthetic musk as it is more affordable.

A bit of "fragrant" history

The extraction of the substance cannot be called humane. So if you're a conservationist or vegan, you'd better skip reading this section. Previously, in order to get the secret, hunters were "ordered" to get the glands of the musk deer. And, just imagine - to get just one kilogram of the substance, they had to kill up to forty adults. This led to the fact that the animal was classified as endangered. A sharp decline in the deer population threatened their complete disappearance from the face of the Earth, and therefore, since 1979, hunting for them has been officially banned.

But this did not stop skilled perfumers. They began to invent a way to return a note of depth and warmth to the base of their woody compositions. This is how artificial, synthetic musk was obtained, which was made on the basis of nitroglycerin. However, its history was short-lived - soon scientists proved the toxicity of the substance, and it was eliminated from the factories.

By the way, this option "active ingredient" was used in the first original version of the legendary perfume "Chanel No. 5". Moreover, it is contained in it in an amount equal to 1/10 of the entire composition.

Today, perfumery uses absolutely non-toxic and harmless substitutes for natural musk. Also, as we have already noted, it may include the so-called "castoreum", hyrax or civet. What does musk smell like? This question is difficult to answer unambiguously. But be aware that when buying oriental woody compositions, you are almost guaranteed to get that same musky scent.

The use of musk deer musk in modern perfume compositions is not and cannot be - hunting for an animal has long been banned.

And by the way, this beautiful majestic deer still lives in the forests of Pakistan, Tibet, India, China, and our native Siberia. Certain species of musk deer are listed in the International Red Book. In some countries there is a strictly defined limit on the removal of this animal. True, this does not negate the fact of the existence of a black market, where, by the way, a natural substance is sold at fabulous prices - about 45,000 US dollars per kilogram.

Black musk is one of the most expensive products, and its value exceeds even that of gold! What is even more frightening is that only a few grams of the secret can be obtained from one male. And to get a kilogram of the substance, about 150 deer are now being destroyed. Theoretically, the substance can simply be extracted from the gland without depriving the animal of life. However, in practice, such actions are extremely rare.

Scientists, chemists and naturalists, however, are on the alert. And they managed to bring out even vegetable musk, which is not inferior to the animal in all its key qualities! It is just as warm and bewitching, but less harsh and exciting. White musk is considered a special variety. Contrary to popular misconceptions, it is not so named because of its color. It is called this way for its purity, freshness and weightlessness. Perfumery "gourmets" compare its aroma with the smell of delicate baby skin.

Unlike the usual animal musk, which is used in "heavy" evening compositions, white musk is intended for the manufacture of fresh "everyday" perfumes. The fragrances created on its basis are designed for everyday "socks" - to work, to university, cafe, date or meeting with friends. This substance is less "hot" and sexy, but more refined. Fragrances based on it are neutral, but at the same time charmingly elegant.

White musk in selective perfumery

What is white musk in perfumery? This product is used in many fragrances in the niche (selective) segment. Moreover, it is relevant for both women's and men's perfumes. But in the unisex format, it is almost never used. It is believed that it adds brutality and self-confidence to men, and natural charm, tenderness and sensuality to women.

Very often, the note of the substance appears in the composition of Arabic oil perfumes. In the East, it is believed that this fragrance is able to harmonize intimate relationships in a married couple. It is worth noting that this ingredient is of plant origin, and therefore those who sincerely worry about saving the lives of animals should not worry about their "crimes".

The aroma of white musk is very seductive, and therefore can also be considered an aphrodisiac.

A huge connoisseur of white musk is Montale, the most famous manufacturer of selective perfumes. This manufacturer has a fragrance that is literally the quintessence of white musk. Actually, he has a characteristic name - White Musk.

Other compositions based on the substance among niche perfumes:

If you're craving to smell truly sophisticated, try selective perfumes based on white, and if you're lucky, black musk. You are guaranteed to feel sexy and feminine, awaken your inner harmony and create a real trail of seductiveness around you.

Be irresistible!

Musk(ar. مِسْكٌ [misk]‎) - a strong-smelling substance produced by the glands of some animals or obtained from some plants. Used in perfumery. Mentioned in Once.

In the Quran

Musk is mentioned in the surah al-Mutaffifin("Slimming"): Verily, the pious will surely (will remain) in (heavenly) grace ۝ on beds (reclining and) contemplating (heavenly blessings)! ۝ You will recognize the brilliance of prosperity in their faces. ۝ They are given sealed wine to drink. ۝ Its seal is musk [bowl]. And to this let aspirants strive. ۝ And its mixture from Tasneem is ۝ the source from which the close ones drink.. Ibn Mas'ud commented on the expression "sealed musk" as "mixed with musk". Ibn ‘Abbas said that Allah will give the wine of Paradise a pleasant aroma, and the last thing He will add to it will be musk. Abu ad-Darda said: It is a white as silver drink. If a person from this world were to put his finger in this drink and take it out, then its aroma would not leave him as long as he is alive.» .

In ordinary Arabs, the opportunity to inhale the aroma of precious and therefore inaccessible musk was rarely given. For them, musk was more a symbol of luxury and pleasure than a real source of pleasure. The smell of precious musk is associated by the faithful with heavenly pleasures, which cannot be compared with anything, because no one on earth has felt them.

Musk sack of musk deer

Story

The first documented mention of musk in Europe dates back to the end of the 4th century. But we can confidently say that he became truly famous there through the efforts of Arab doctors and merchants from the time of the Caliphate. The former described its healing properties in their writings, which they disinterestedly introduced to their European colleagues, the latter brought this extremely expensive remedy from distant countries, carefully concealing the places where they themselves bought it. However, information about where the Arab merchants brought musk from, as well as the existence of close trade links that bring great profits from the port cities of the Caliphate Siraf and Oman with Seymour harbor in India and the ports of China can be found in the Book of the Wonders of India by Buzurg ibn Shahriyar . In the story of Ishaq, the son of a Jew, one of the small Omani merchants, it is reported that after thirty years of wandering, he returned in 913 from China to Oman rich, on his own ship full of overseas goods: musk, expensive fabrics, porcelain and precious stones. The value of the goods was so great that the merchant, in order to avoid calculating the cost of all goods and paying the corresponding duty, paid the ruler of Oman, Ahmad ibn Hilal, a huge sum of more than a million dirhams.

As it happened with, the road to the place where musk was mined was opened to Europeans by Marco Polo, who, returning from his distant wanderings to China and India, indicated that the best musk is mined and sold in the area located on the territory of modern Mongolia or Western China.

Description

Musk (lat. muscle) is called the content of the musky sac of the male musk deer, which has a sharp specific smell ( Moschus moschiferus L.), a small, beautiful, very shy, hornless ruminant ungulate animal adapted to living in mountain taiga landscapes. The musk deer inhabits the middle belt of mountains between the Altai and the Himalayas, the Amur and the Hindu Kush, preferring the dark coniferous taiga and forest areas with dense thickets of shrubs. The musk sac is actually the preputial gland of the male musk deer, which secretes a strong-smelling secret - musk, designed to attract the female during estrus, and the female smells the presence of the male musk deer, who is at that time at a distance of several kilometers from her.

The musk enclosed in bags is a substance, reddish in color, similar to honey. Over time, it hardens and turns into round or oblong black, with a slight greasy sheen of grains ranging in size from a pinhead to lentil grains with a peculiar sharp, long-lasting odor and bitter taste. Dried musk has little to no odor, but the odor reappears when the substance is moistened. One gland of an adult male musk deer contains 10-30 g of natural musk - one of the most expensive products of animal origin. The easiest way to obtain this product was to cut out the gland from the dead male and dry it. In dried form, this tool does not lose its properties for many years. In ancient times, musk was exported from India, and in later times and still from China. In very small quantities, musk was obtained from musk deer found in the Altai and Sayan mountains.

The chemical composition of musk is very complex and still little understood. It contains fatty acids, waxes, aromatic and steroid compounds, cholesterol esters. The main carrier of the musky odor is the macrocyclic ketone muscone. Musk gland pheromones help the female musk deer to obtain information about the age and condition of the male.

Usage

In China and India, and later in the Muslim countries of the Arab East, musk was highly valued as an aphrodisiac in various cases of decline in nervous, cardiac and sexual activity. It was added to many medicines that were prescribed for anemia, neurasthenic condition, fainting, melancholy, restless sleep, hysteria and convulsions in women and children. All Muslim medical authorities considered musk to be the most powerful aphrodisiac with the ability to enhance sexual desire.

As a means to enhance sexual potency in men, musk was used in European medicine throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, first as a powder, pills, ointments, lipsticks, and then as a tincture prepared from one part of musk, 25 parts of water and 25 parts of 70 % alcohol. However, over time, musk gradually lost its medicinal value, although it was experimentally proven that it has a general tonic effect on the central nervous system, and is also effective as an anti-inflammatory agent. In contrast, its aromatic properties are highly appreciated all over the world, capable of giving perfumes a completely new note.

In high concentrations, the specific smell of musk is rather sharp and unpleasant, but the Arab alchemists of the heyday of the Caliphate, studying the properties of musk brought by merchants from China and India, found that with a large dilution, the smell becomes sensual and bewitching. Around the same time, Arab scientists made another decisive contribution to the development of modern perfumery, reviving the technique of distillation of liquids and solids, thoroughly forgotten in Europe. Thanks to these two discoveries, musk found application in perfumery, where its alcohol solution was used to create perfumes popular in the Arab East, the fame of which quickly spread throughout the world. In addition to the fact that musk itself has a warm and exciting aroma, it also turned out to be a good fixative for the smells of other aromatic substances, so the persistence, richness and attractiveness of perfumes containing this substance have increased significantly.

When we begin to study any perfumery, musk is very often present in the pyramid. It is added to many compositions both for flavor and to give perfume durability.

But how musk smells in its purest form has always been a mystery to me. Based on what I've seen somewhere in fiction, I assumed that on its own it smells pretty pungent and maybe not that pleasant.

Musk in ancient times was obtained from the seminal glands of male musk deer, or musk deer, and now it can also be obtained from certain plants (angelica, galbanum or ambrette) or synthesized in the laboratory.

Here is one of the descriptions of the musky fragrance:

Musk is one of the most mysterious ingredients in perfumery. It gives the fragrance sensuality, spaciousness, warmth and liveliness. Musk is found in almost all modern fragrances. The musk note is an animalistic, sweet, slightly ammonia scent. But perfume lovers know that musk can be very different: repulsive and attractive, chemical and warm, sweet and balsamic, pungent and enveloping, earthy and powdery, oily and chocolatey, sharp and leathery, resinous and spicy, dry, savory and woody.

And it's a little confusing: you still don't know what to expect from it!

When I saw this bottle of perfume oil called Arabian Musk on iHerb and read the reviews, I decided that I definitely need it! Because this fragrance is compared to Eau de Lingerie by Guerlain or Amber Sultan by Lutens. To be honest, I didn’t test either one or the other, but I decided that I would just find out what was what.

The manufacturer writes that this is an alternative to synthetic fragrances that may contain harmful chemical compounds or animal products (and this, after all, is a cruel attitude towards our smaller brothers!)

The composition is not entirely clear: vegetable and flower oils and derivatives. What oils are a mystery. Even on the manufacturer's website no details are given. Well, at least one thing is clear: the musk used here is most likely not of animal or synthetic origin.

The bottle is very small, glass, with a plain metal cap.

The content is a clear oily liquid.

The smell... I'm trying to describe (there is no pyramid!) To me it seems warm, powdery and sweetish. Not heavy at all and not annoying. He calms me down.

But a couple of respondents (acquaintances) said that they associate the aroma with the church, incense, candles. A friend categorically stated that you can’t wear this to work! In fact, you can, of course, because the aroma is not heavy and not particularly sharp, and it is felt only at a distance of hugs.

Longevity is not strong - a couple of hours on the skin, on the fabric it will last a little longer. And this has its advantages: you can apply a little oil on your wrist - well, just to create a mood, an atmosphere for a while, and it will not turn out that the smell will haunt you around the clock.

In general, lovers of oriental fragrances will most likely like this oil. If you choose to Arabian Musk , it must be taken into account that the connection is absolutely unstable.

Maybe somehow I will decide to buy musk of animal origin, because my curiosity has not been fully satisfied.