Do-it-yourself homemade potbelly stove. Long-burning potbelly stove: a simple design for making your own hands Homemade potbelly stoves for a cottage garage

In Russia, then the USSR, potbelly stoves were used where there was no centralized heating: in front-line dugouts and dugouts of the Great Patriotic War, in state institutions of the same time, in heating cars. See a photo of a potbelly stove made by yourself on the website.

Who are the authors of homemade products?

Many Russians are sure that this is only a simple Russian invention. And some are wrong. In the United States, the same homemade products have been used for centuries, being called "fat belly", in Japan - "darums".

The revival of the bourgeoisie took place in Russia in the second half of the 20th century due to the massive appearance of garages, garden plots, where they were the only means of heating thin-walled buildings.

After the improvement of these mini-ovens - and for cooking: a pot or pan was placed on a stove attached to the top.

Until they were replaced by a centralized supply of methane, gas-balloon stoves or wood-burning bricks. They also came in handy in the 90s of the crisis years due to interruptions in gas and other types of fuel. It's good that at least there was plenty of firewood.

What is attractive bourgeoisie?

Its main feature is the simplicity of the design. Even with many additions to it, the principle of operation of a metal stove remains the same: everything that is at hand burns and heats summer residents.

Although at the same time half of the thermal energy escapes through the direct-flow pipe. But no one writes off even a heating source that has rusted from time to time.

It is easy to make such a temporary stove in a day or two. But first draw up the drawings of the potbelly stove with your own hands. Much of what is stored in the closets of rural houses and dachas goes into action. These are milk and water metal (but not duralumin) cans, barrels from diesel fuel, vegetable oils, pipes, boxes, corners.

Nothing expensive, including a tool - in the villages every owner has it at hand. High-quality assembly using gas or electric welding.

But neighbors who have units will help with this. Welding machines provide greater reliability and rigidity of the assembly. How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands, step by step instructions below.

We make a potbelly stove from a steel can

Stock up on a hardened chisel, a hammer, a chimney, a piece of rod with a diameter of 0.6 - 1.0 cm. Prepare an electric drill with a drill one centimeter in diameter. If there is a grinder, you will speed up the assembly twice.

In one part of the cover, at the very bottom, drill 5 - 7 holes for future traction. Bend a long rod with a snake and with legs, at least four. These will be the grates when you insert them into the can.

Straighten the snake inside so that it lies horizontally and firmly just above the holes. Firewood will burn on this “grill”, and good air draft will go through the holes and with the help of a chimney. It will be the catalyst for combustion.

For the chimney, fit a piece of water pipe, even used, with a diameter of 7-8 inches. Near the bottom or on the very bottom, strictly perpendicular to the grate, cut through with a chisel or saw through a circle with a grinder.

Insert the pipe into it a few centimeters, and from the outside fix it tightly with a clamp on the bolts or weld it to the can. The can stove is designed for a horizontal position.

Weld legs to it and put it where the potbelly stove will heat the house, garage. This is a very flammable device, so place it on a metal sheet and at least half a meter from wooden structures.

The disadvantage of the stove: you can’t even heat the kettle on it - there’s nothing to put on. And yet it will be an effective potbelly stove with your own hands, and read about the improvements below.

barrel stove

She will correct the situation, and even cook borscht and fry cutlets on this potbelly stove. Not only an old barrel is suitable, but it is better if it is a decommissioned 50 liter gas cylinder.

His walls are thicker, they will heat up a little longer, but they will also hold more heat. This is the perfect sauna heater. And if you impose sea or river pebbles, other strong stones, then it will be easy to raise steam in the room.

It will stand upright. The blower will also have enough space, and a lot of firewood can be laid in the firebox above it. The exhaust pipe can be made not straight, but with knees for a greater return of thermal energy in the steam room.

If a potbelly stove is necessary for a country house, then weld a metal platform on top, you will cook food and cook tea on it.

Preservation of heat in a potbelly stove

To do this, it is necessary to overlay two-thirds of its parts with refractory bricks, placing it on horizontal ribs, leaving free access to the firebox and blower. It will be a heat shield that will keep the generated energy much longer. Holes must be drilled in bricks for better heat transfer.

The second option: a potbelly stove plus a water heater. Scald the gas cylinder from which the stove is made with sheet steel of at least three millimeters thick.

So that in the resulting container can hold at least 30 liters of water. Weld the water inlet and outlet pipes to it, connect the pipelines for heating the adjacent room. For better convection, connect a small circulation pump.

Propane stove

The ideal stove is a do-it-yourself gas stove. She does not need a chimney, because no smoke is released when the gas is burned. Its analogue is a room gas stove with an oven.

It is not difficult to make - take ... a ready-made potbelly stove, insert a steel pipeline with a nozzle from an old gas stove into it. Connect it to a standard gas hose with a reducer from a household gas cylinder.

There is no exact consumption for a potbelly stove, you can navigate the stove for 4 burners. The capacity of the cylinder (for 50 liters) with 21 kg of propane-butane is enough for 34 hours of operation of such a stove.

DIY potbelly stove photo

The potbelly stove is an iron, compact-sized stove with a chimney at the top. It consists of a chamber where solid fuel is poured, a grate in the form of a metal grate, a pipe - a chimney and an ash pan for collecting ash.

With the ability to handle the welding machine, the device is easy to manufacture, and at the same time, it will serve faithfully in an unheated room, in the field, in the absence of central heating for more than a dozen years.

How to do it yourself?

Manufacturing options:

Rectangular oven

It is a metal box, you can independently weld the structure of steel sheets. For a rectangular potbelly stove, an old automobile tank, a box will fit perfectly.

Usually, this form is chosen when it is necessary to cook food on the stove.

On a capacious platform, you can immediately put 2 large pots or containers for heating water.

The manufacturing principle is simple: doors are built to cover the blower and the combustion chamber, a hole is made for the chimney, combustion products must leave the room in a timely manner, otherwise you can inhale carbon monoxide.

From a gas bottle

The most common type of potbelly stove. The cylinders have thick walls, the furnace is durable, mobile, fireproof.

First, a drawing is drawn, markings are made. The door for the combustion chamber will be located in the center of the cylinder. It blew in the same plane, only 10-12 cm lower.

Instruction:

We take a grinder, cut out both doors, draw a closed line between them.
Along the line we cut the balloon into 2 parts.
Down below We weld the grate - blower.
Install grate, weld both parts again.
for valve make a hole with a radius of 10 cm.
for hood we insert a hole into the pipe, by welding we weld objects.
simple stove from the cylinder is ready, you can use it, throw in fuel and check its operation.

For cooking on the top of the stove, the design is slightly different:

cut off the top of the balloon.
Inserted inside and welded rods.
Side top cut a hole for the pipe. You can heat and cook food at the same time.
Welded hole, the valve is screwed in, a comfortable handle adapts.
From a pipe, barrels can also be done oven. The barrel or pipe must be selected according to the diameter.
At the bottom of the barrel pipes cut 2 holes for the firebox and ash pan.
Make doors.
Do framing metal strip holes.
Under the furnace door at a distance of 10 - 12 cm inside the barrel, weld brackets at the corners, a grate will lie on them, weld it first from any fittings.

When making a furnace from a pipe, weld the bottom of it, as well as a part on top:

Down to the bottom weld 4 legs.
On the surface cut a hole, weld a pipe to it, this will be a chimney.
Weld hinges to the previously cut holes, install the doors. Also, mark and attach a hook so that the doors lock tightly.
For design aesthetics finish all welding seams, clean them 10. Paint the outside of the device with heat-resistant paint. Whatever a factory product, you can sell or successfully use it yourself.

Working furnace

The option is distinguished by a specific smell, which during the combustion of fuel will be emitted by oil mining, even in the presence of an exhaust hood.

Instruction:

To make this model, select sheet material with a thickness of at least 4 mm, a chimney pipe, individual small structural elements.
Do it on a sheet accurate markings of all elements, having previously drawn a drawing.
embed all elements with a grinder, clean the edges of the parts. Drill round holes in the pipe.
Top of the tank cut the pipe hole off-center to the left.
Shifted to the right on the circumference, drill a hole for the connecting pipe.
Got 2 circles, weld them to the pipe, the thickness of the upper tank will depend on its segment.
Decorate the bottom part of the stove in the same way., but now cut the hole right in the center of the marked circle.
cut next second hole, attach the sliding cover to it.
Weld to the bottom plane 4 legs.
Clean seams after welding, paint the surface with high temperature resistant paint.
Connect the chimney to the oven. The mining will be poured into the lower part of the tank, after the paper is ignited, the sliding cover closes, and the mining starts to burn. Oxygen will penetrate through the holes, mining will burn intensively.

Necessary materials, tools

Before starting work, prepare the tools:

metal brush;
chisel, pliers, hammer;
tape measure, chalk;
drill with drills for metal;
grinder;
circles for metal;
welding machine;
protective mask;

For the case you will need a pipe 30 cm in diameter, at least 5 mm thick. You can use sheet metal of the same thickness instead of a pipe.

For the chimney, you should choose a pipe 12 cm in diameter, at least 3 - 4 mm thick. To avoid burning out, a metal box is suitable for the ash pan, so you need to choose a durable sheet metal.

Walkthrough

First you need to cut the metal, taking into account the thickness and length of the desired blanks.

Chamfer parts from parts, the touch to the furnace will be safer, and the welding seams will be strong:

Check the correct markings of the parts before you start cutting them. When cutting, consider the thickness of the walls of the furnace, also the circle.
Bevel the prepared parts to prevent accidental contact with the hot device.
Check all part markings.

The design is installed in the following sequence:

Connect welding machine to the network.
Take electrode with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm, taking into account the sheet or pipe.
Install current strength on the device up to 160 A.
put on special glasses and overalls, protect your hands with leggings.
To the bottom of the oven weld three walls.
Bottom of device place at least 5 cm from the floor.
Connect parts at right angles. Check their perpendicularity with a level.
Where needed, straighten the corners of the details.
weld details and joints relative to the floor level, at an angle of 45 gr.
weld a partition between the blower and the firebox, having previously cut holes so that ash does not accumulate.
withstand the distance between the holes is at least 5 cm from the walls of the stove. The distance between the partition and the bottom of the structure must remain at least 10 cm.
Lastly by welding, cut holes for installing a chimney on the back of a homemade stove.
Make markings, drill rectangular holes in the places intended for the firebox and blower.
Align with baffle all bottom holes. The distance between the walls of the furnace and the upper side edges should be at least 3 - 5 cm. The opening for the blower is slightly smaller, but not more than 5 cm.
Bulgarian cut two holes from metal, form doors. Weld them on the canopies, raise the blower to the maximum to the top of the slab opening so that they do not sag further under the influence of high temperatures.
To the doors weld bolts, they should open and close easily, without obstacles.

After all welding work, check the quality of the seams, tap them. If there are defects, correct them immediately. At the end of the work, weld the upper part of the device.

How to make a potbelly stove of long burning?

So that the potbelly stove radiates heat for as long as possible without throwing another portion of firewood, does not burn out quickly, it is possible, the fuel will not burn, but smolder, the heating process without laying firewood can be extended for several hours.

The manufacture of a furnace for long burning is somewhat different from the usual design.

A balloon is best suited for the furnace:

Cut off the top of it, this will be the lid of the stove.
Punch a hole at the top and side of the stove, this will be the hood.
Punch a hole in the center so that the balloon can be easily inserted.
weld to the cut hole of the pancake pipe, a little longer than the cylinder. The pipe will serve as a blower, and oxygen will flow into the furnace, the fuel will not smolder, but will not burn.
cut off part of the balloon in the center, insert the pipe into the hole as a blower. The principle of operation of a potbelly stove for long burning is to create pressure inside the chamber. After the firewood flares up, a heavy metal circle sinks inside, begins to put pressure on the fuel, creates pressure on it, the fuel begins to experience a lack of oxygen and slowly smolder. The smoke, heading up, goes out through the chimney, the room will not be smoky.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other heating device, the stove has both pros and cons.

The undoubted advantages of a homemade oven are:

Compact dimensions.
Use of any available fuel, you can heat with peat, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, coal.
Insignificant costs for the manufacture of the device, basically you can get by with handy materials.
Construction installation does not require laying the foundation, chimney.

The disadvantages of the oven include:

Quite a large expense fuel material, the principle is as follows: while you are drowning, it is warm. To keep the room cool, you need to throw fuel more often, otherwise you can just freeze.
Furnace walls become very hot and may result in burns if touched.
Should not be allowed coals falling out of the oven, this is fraught with fire.

Where can it be applied?

Furnaces were popular in the first half of the last century. They warmed the soldiers' dugouts, dugouts, and heating wagons.

Today, stoves still heat garden houses, garages, warehouses, greenhouses, that is, where there is no gas pipeline, and electrical appliances are inefficient, while burning a lot of electricity.

Types of homemade bourgeois

The material for the construction is cast iron or stainless steel. The furnace consists of a container, an ash pan, a branch pipe, a chimney, a furnace door.

The types are distinguished:

pyrolysis ovens;
with a cooking platform at the top for cooking;
furnaces sheathed with a casing for efficient heat transfer. For homemade, you can pick up an old cylinder, a barrel, a large vat, a can. Furnaces can be cylindrical, rectangular;

Installation safety rules

Any home-made heating device is designed to heat the room, making it more comfortable, but along with this, such devices are far from safe, fraught with ignition, fire.

When installing the structure, it is very important to follow the safety rules:

Bake must be installed on a surface that is resistant to fire, otherwise the floor may burn through. For this, it is good to lay bricks and tiles on the floor.
The walls of the stove should not overheat much; for this, special drywall or other non-combustible material is used in the manufacture.
Fast flammable materials do not put near the firebox, they can catch fire.
take care about ventilation in the room where the potbelly stove will be located. Carbon monoxide should be released in a timely manner, and not accumulate inside the room.
use in production only high-quality, refractory material.

In the presence of panel, wood walls in the house install the oven at a distance of 1 meter from them.
Be sure to mount chimney preferably from one section.
When running a pipe through a wall install a brick thermal barrier. Do not use concrete for these purposes, it crumbles quickly.
for garage a potbelly stove for working out is better, so do not rush to throw out car rims from the wheels.
Don't put the oven near flammable materials.
pipe section just above the roof, make it from non-combustible material, so the stove will cool down much more slowly.
Think well ventilation system, the room should not be burning.
Lay out the floor and walls near the structure with bricks or facing material, the stove is fire hazardous. The same applies to the chimney, the distance to the walls and ceiling should be at least 1.2 meters.
Install for safety metal guard around the device.
grate it is better to make it from cast-iron grates in a set, so it will be easier to pull them out of the furnace.
Install all parts of the chimney only at the top of the structure, they must withstand high temperatures over 300 degrees.
Work the seams after welding with a durable and high-quality sealant.
Do not brush the pipe, metal objects, the pipe walls can quickly leak.
Mounting the chimney, make a rain visor, rain moisture will not get inside the pipe.

Often homeowners prefer to collect simple and useful crafts from improvised and unnecessary materials, instead of buying ready-made. And the potbelly stove is one of such useful devices.

The main feature of the potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide fast heating, while the appearance of the device for the user is often completely unimportant.

A do-it-yourself stove-stove can be made, and if desired, upgraded to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Have you also thought about assembling such a homemade product and do not know where to start? We will help you in the implementation of the task - the article describes the assembly procedure for various options for a home-made furnace, drawings and diagrams are given.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a home-made potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

It is the combustible material, which has different temperatures and the nature of combustion, that dictates the principles for creating various modifications of the device.

The shape of the potbelly stove can be different, often it depends on the availability of suitable material. It can be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - everything that is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image gallery

In the lower part of the chamber, a grate is placed from the grate (it can be welded from reinforcement), under which ash will accumulate. You can also organize the hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

Well, if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the stove on bricks.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called - "Titan". To do this, a stainless container is installed on top of the stove, through which the chimney pipe passes.

The water in a wood-burning boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in the summer, one bookmark in a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top in such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that it will be possible to cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more detailed instructions on our website with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a stove on sawdust

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - compacted sawdust inside does not burn, they slowly smolder, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing heat for a long time.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove on sawdust works on the principle of long burning. The slow combustion process allows you to save resources - heat does not fly out instantly into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can be a metal barrel with an open top (if the container is airtight, then the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet, three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for ramming sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. With the help of this circle, the ash pan is fenced off - in it, with the help of chips or chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

A window is cut out below the welded circle, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

In the lid of the container make an exit to the chimney. The lid should fit tightly on the potbelly stove and be made of a sufficiently thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for the sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to provide a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and rammed. The cone is carefully removed, scrolling, put a lid on the barrel

You can improve the same model by adding an additional cylinder. In this version, sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this embodiment, the exit of flue gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can a potbelly stove be improved?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a lot of positive qualities, but also has many significant drawbacks. She is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average - every 30-40 minutes.

In addition, a large amount of heat flies out through the chimney into the atmosphere without benefit. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is carried out without stopping.

The standard design of the potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow you to:

save fuel;
increase the efficiency of the stove;
increase heat capacity;
reduce the frequency of refueling.

The most common methods for improving the efficiency of a potbelly stove are the creation of a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and the installation of heat-resistant lining of the inner walls.

You can also improve the quality indicators of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area with the help of welded pipes and an installed fan that will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called "Buleryan", but besides it, there are many more different designs made in a handicraft way. We recommend that you watch a detailed master class on home-made manufacturing.

You can increase the heat transfer time by lining the oven with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but it will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died out.

Are you interested in brickwork? We have a detailed do-it-yourself manual with diagrams and drawings on our website.

Option # 1 - an oven with an increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. They take as a basis a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and supplement it with a cassette from a deaf sealed cylinder. Such constructive additions significantly increase its effectiveness.

A flange is welded to the cassette cylinder with a height of about 400 mm. After installing the cylinder in the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove. To make it convenient to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when it is installed on the stove, they can immediately fall on burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

The lower part of the firewood, having fallen on the coals of the pre-ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to a lack of oxygen, but will be dried under the action of hot smoke.
Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually sinks into the firebox.
The hot gas, which has been in the cylinder for some time, gives it heat, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
At the same time, the temperature of the outgoing smoke decreases, which means that the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increase.

As a result of such modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option # 2 - long-burning potbelly stove "Bubafonya"

The low efficiency of an ordinary potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as "Bubafonya", "Filipina".

Use this model of a potbelly stove in non-residential premises - workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. For work within 9-12 hours, one bookmark of small firewood, chips, sawdust is enough. In this model of the heating device, coarsely chopped and damp firewood cannot be used.

Potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuels and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Production is carried out in the following sequence:

A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut out for the chimney.
From metal (at least 10 mm in thickness), a circle is cut out, slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the pipe used for the rod).
Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated in such a way that the piston in the lowered state rises above the tank cover by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will appear in it, it will begin to smoke.
Next, they construct a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it suitable for the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the flow of air into the furnace from the street. Thus, the heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option # 3 - Filipina secondary afterburner

In the operation of the furnace, two methods were used to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. For its manufacture, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of steps for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

Cylinders are prepared for work by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that form during the operation of the grinder can provoke a gas explosion, some of which always remains in the cylinder.
In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the furnace and ash pan, the tap is removed and the top is cut off (it is used to make a door), a hole is cut out for installing a chimney.
Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the cover of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded, it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder in the place where the top is cut, in which the places for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
The upper chamber is put on the pipe, aligning the holes, a heat-resistant tourniquet is wound between the rings, and the connection is fixed with screws.
The chimney outlet is made from the bottom of the secondary afterburner chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install awning doors. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the furnace.

And in a private country house, and in your own garage or workshop, it is always nice to have a mobile or stationary potbelly stove. To date, many different models of these heaters are on sale, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience working with metal, suitable material and the right tools, often stoves are made independently.

Which model of a wood-burning potbelly stove to choose with your own hands is up to the master, since these home-made appliances can have a very different look and be made both from new material and from improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, pipes of medium diameter, metal sheets and even disks from large automobile wheels for the manufacture of stoves-potbelly stoves.

Tools for making potbelly stoves

To work with metal, you will need special tools, some of which are available in almost every private house, while others will have to be bought or rented.

Angle grinder machine - "grinder" and consumables in the form of cutting discs and grinding wheels.
A welding machine with a power of 200 A, as well as consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
Metal brush.
Slag hammer.
Measuring tools - a folding ruler, a long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
Pliers, hammer, chisel.
Drill with drills for metal of various diameters.

The choice of a stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance of the heater and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, an option made of metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe is best suited.

Any of the existing models is suitable for, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring heat into the room, but also warm the water.

To finally make a choice, it is worth considering different options and familiarizing yourself with the process of their manufacture.

Gas bottle stove

The installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

Using one cylinder with its vertical or horizontal arrangement;
Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will give more heat, since the heating area of the furnace is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, then it can be installed even in a living room.

Materials for manufacturing

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of oven will need:

A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - a jumper between the firebox and the ash pan, as well as a hob will be made from it.
If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a finished cast-iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
If the appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a fragment of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
Reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel corner for the manufacture of the grate and legs. cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder, in which holes are drilled, can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from large cylinders, but also from small ones - this will depend on the place allotted for the furnace.

Gas cylinder preparation

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in operation. In this case, a certain concentration of gas can always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. It is impossible to neglect measures for the appropriate preparation of the container, since do work it will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, is unscrewed, the hole in which it is installed is released. The container is left on the street or in the utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. In this case, it must be taken into account that the liquid will have an unpleasant odor, so it must be drained away from housing.
The washed cylinder may well be used in operation, since the last remaining gas must be removed from it along with water.

Making a vertical furnace from a cylinder

The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - it indicates the location of the firebox and ash pan. For this procedure, you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her rather rigid, but elastic tape can be measured and drawn locations doors.

The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts with the help of a grinder. Cut fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox and ash pan doors

These elements are scalded, adding bumpers, hinges and a latch-handle, and they make excellent doors.
Next, the inner diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from a thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the reinforcement. Thus, a grate for a furnace is made.
Then, the installation level of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate becomes, thus, the separator of the chamber of the ash pan and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation site so that the doors close and open easily.

On the opposite side of the loops, a hook-loop for the valve, open from above, is fixed. It must securely keep the door closed while the oven is heating.
In the same way, the door is fixed on the ash pan.
It is recommended to cut off the top of the cylinder to weld on top of a round metal panel that will act as a hob.
The chimney can be removed both through the top of the cylinder and through the rear or side wall of the furnace. If you choose the second option, then the top hob will be much larger, as it will be freed from the chimney.

If the cylinder stands vertically, it will take up much less space than the horizontal version, but you need to remember that any oven should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Effective potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove, you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, are able to heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to arrange a hot water tank in the vertical part of the furnace, if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in the pipes for supplying and extracting water.

The first step is to prepare the balloon, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that a round hole with a diameter of about 30 - 35 mm is less than the inner diameter of the cylinder.

In the bottom part of the future furnace, holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

A metal box is welded under this "grate" - this will ash pan-blower. It is then necessary to install a tightly closing door on it, which prevents coal and ash from falling out. As an air regulator she used this model will not.
Legs from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

A round hole is cut out on top of a horizontally located cylinder, from the side opposite the furnace door, on which the vertical part of the furnace will be installed.

A door is installed, which is best made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut out in the center, into which a branch pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This branch pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the furnace, and hence the intensity of burning firewood. Door hinges are recommended to be placed on top - under the influence of its gravity, the lid will securely close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to a horizontal body.

In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is arranged in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. the smoke, getting into this section, does not immediately go into the chimney, but lingers in the arranged chamber.

To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. Holes should be cut closer to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper must be located on the opposite side from from versions on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case would be to install three similar jumpers located equidistant from each other.
The vertical assembly with the baffles already mounted is installed and welded from above to the horizontally mounted casing. A pipe for connection is welded onto the upper cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove of two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from a single cylinder, and the technology of doing work is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering difference of some elements.

Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting a chimney pipe is welded in the rear upper part of the cylinder.

A rectangular hole is cut out for the furnace door - it is quite possible to fit it in size to the finished cast-iron door. If it will be purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blowing holes in brick ovens - sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

You can make a door cut from a balloon rectangular part. It is well suited for the resulting hole in terms of the size of the sides, but in the middle of it there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar with a thickness of 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
You can use two steel strips instead of wire, welded on both sides of the cylinder for its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a cylinder stove. That is why it is able to heat a room with a larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used to heat not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical potbelly stove

The barrel is measured and marked on its surface. locations the doors of the blower and the firebox, as well as the place of the cut. It should pass below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is first worked separately.
A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
The chimney pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole, a hob is threaded onto the pipe and placed, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which is the height of the rim, will help keep the hob hot for a longer time.
Further, a round metal part with holes cut in it - a grate is also welded to the underside of the upper part. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast-iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can cut a hole for the firebox door according to the markings made earlier.
The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are fixed to the door.
Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the valve are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the installation distances, since the door should open and close easily, and the valve should freely enter the holder arranged by the hook.
In the lower part of the barrel, an opening is cut for the ash pan. The door is being prepared and hung - in the same way as in the case of the combustion chamber.
After that, both parts are connected into a single structure by a welded seam.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of manufacturing a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out, on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections of the door with hinges and hinges with the body are made with the help of rivets.

The regular pressure relief hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan provided.
It is recommended to immediately make a stand to accommodate the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or a corner, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without backlash.

The next step is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, according to the data obtained, a panel of the required size is cut out, in which holes for air supply are drilled. The finished grate is laid on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and the inner surface of the barrel is about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

A special connecting node is made for the chimney pipe in the rear upper part. After marking the desired diameter with a grinder, diametrical slots are cut at an angle of 15 º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting "teeth" are bent up - the chimney pipe inserted then will be attached to them with rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

Potbelly stove from rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a piece of large-diameter pipe - it must be selected for the diameter of the prepared disks. The height of the segment may vary depending on the preferences of the master and the stability of the structure, but are usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the scheme and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

Separate elements of the future stove are being prepared - two disks, a pipe segment, a metal sheet and a chimney pipe.
All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To facilitate the adjustment of the pipe diameter to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outer edge from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

Further, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
The cut-out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
Then, you need to make a hole for the blower, otherwise the fire in the furnace simply will not burn. To do this, a window of 100–120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded into it.
It is recommended to make a hob from a steel sheet with a thickness of 4 — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
The same is done with the bottom of the furnace in order to arrange a full-fledged ash pan and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is, rather, a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and subject to free source materials, this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made of rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade bourgeois is compact. It looks neat and can be designed for installation in any room. This potbelly stove is well suited in size for small country houses, as it does not take up much space and is an indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the potbelly stove "Gnome"

A similar model of a potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most common case with division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will keep the heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, flue pipe, angle 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. For the burner, the lid can be made independently or bought ready-made.

Relying on drawing, on metal sheets draw details potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for fixing them inside the structure.
Rectangular holes are cut in the front panel for the firebox and blower. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and valves and hinged hinges are immediately fixed on them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
On the same panel, only from its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ 160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
After that, on the back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. In combination, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for smoke during the combustion of the furnace. Thanks to this, each of the corners of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
Two holes are cut in the hob - for the burner and for the chimney.
Legs made of thick reinforcement or a corner are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose a frame option from a corner, which includes legs and a base for fixing the bottom and lower edges of the side panels on it.
Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld the corners on them for the entire length of the panel, they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a finished cast-iron grate should not be discounted.
Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install a 30 × 30 mm metal corner outside. This will slightly make the overall structure heavier, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
The top cover is welded with a chimney pipe and a cooking ring.
To make the stove look respectable, you need to clean all the welds and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and back surfaces, which will increase the safety of the stove and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, which significantly speeds up the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks in such a way that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: a master class on making a potbelly stove from a steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A self-made one will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety regulations are observed during its installation.

The surface on which the oven is to be installed must be rigid and fire resistant. This can be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. You can also use sheet of asbestos the top is covered with a metal sheet.
Around the stove, heat-resistant drywall or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles or bricks is also suitable.
It is forbidden to place combustible materials and compositions near the furnace, not far from the furnace.
The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic floor.
It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
In order for the furnace to work for a long time and efficiently, only high-quality material must be chosen for its manufacture.
Before installing the potbelly stove in its permanent place, street tests must be carried out, paying special attention to the quality of welds and the accuracy of fitting all parts.

Most of us have probably heard of such a stove as a potbelly stove. According to its design, it is a metal structure equipped with a chimney. Such ovens were very popular in the first half of the 20th century. But after some time, when gas stoves and a central heating system were installed in houses, they began to be forgotten.

Subsequently, they were remembered during the Second World War: in these years, when there was no central heating in apartments and institutions, potbelly stoves helped maintain heat in the rooms. These handicraft stoves are often used to heat dugouts, dugouts and wagons. In the 50s of the XX century, these stoves were remembered by the owners of summer cottages, who installed them in their garden houses. Today, they are still popular primarily as a means of heating utility rooms with an area of 10-15 square meters. m. They do an excellent job when used in garages, small country houses, greenhouses, etc.

The high popularity of potbelly stoves ensured their dignity, which they have in sufficient quantity:

However, potbelly stoves cannot be considered an ideal heating device. Therefore, getting acquainted with their advantages, it is also necessary to pay attention to the disadvantages. Although the heating of such an oven takes a minimum of time, achieved They don't keep the temperature for long.. For this reason, you have to regularly put fuel in them. In this regard, they are noticeably inferior to long-burning stoves, which do not need to be paid attention throughout the day. The amount of thermal energy generated by the potbelly stove is not enough to ensure a comfortable temperature in a large room. It has a rather small efficiency equal to 5-10%. According to this indicator, it loses to most modern heating installations.

How to increase the efficiency of the furnace?

This problem is relevant for many masters of industrial production and ordinary craftsmen. To get an idea about this process, you should first find out how the potbelly stove works, and familiarize yourself with some important points.

Chimney diameter

When using potbelly stoves, the main thing is to make sure that a smaller amount of flue gas comes out through this chimney compared to the volume produced by the furnace. If this problem is successfully solved, the gases will remain in the pipe and move through the furnace space a certain number of times. This will lead to air circulation, which is a prerequisite for fuel combustion. As a result, leaving through the chimney, these gases will already have a lower temperature.

This problem can be solved by determining the optimal chimney diameter. This may be the size three times the volume of the furnace kilns in cubic meters. However, in the case of gas circulation in a metal box, it will quickly lose its temperature.

In order to avoid rapid cooling of gases and to ensure their complete combustion, it is necessary to change the fuel combustion process so that it takes place in the pyrolysis mode. You can create it with the help of high temperature. Moreover, even if you try to use dry furniture as fuel, you will not be able to achieve the desired effect.

You can try to regularly add coal, but with the help of such raw materials it is impossible to create optimal conditions for the pyrolysis process. This is possible only on the condition that the furnace will operate in the smoldering mode and will naturally switch from one mode of operation to another. Now we come to the next important point.

Steel three-sided protective screen

It should be placed in such a place that it is removed from the body of the stove at a distance of 50-60 mm. Thanks to him, more than half of the infrared radiation will be reflected towards the furnace, which will ensure the temperature that the firebox needs. It is very important to choose the correct distance between the furnace and the shielding element, as this can significantly affect the economic component of the design. The use of wood and coal at the very beginning of the combustion process provides heat generation in great numbers.

Keeping in mind that the supply of firewood and coal is constantly in short supply, it is important to make sure that the very first portions of heat are in the room, and do not go into the chimney.

Among the currently known methods of heat transfer in terms of efficiency, there is no equal to convection. In practice, it is implemented in that, after heating the air near the stove, make it so that it spreads throughout the room. This problem can be solved using the screen.

Although the heating temperature of the lower layer of the potbelly stove is not so high, the heat still comes down from it. Because of this, there is a risk of fire in the room. For this reason, as the base on which the potbelly stove will be placed, it is necessary to use a metal sheet that provides removal 30-40 cm from the stove. Moreover, under it it is necessary to place an additional sheet, which can be made of asbestos or basalt.

It is worth noting that the potbelly stove is not able to 100% maintain the pyrolysis mode. This is due to the fact that after entering the chimney, the gases leave it without having time to give up their heat. This can be achieved if you correctly approach the device of the chimney pipe, choosing the most optimal design for it.

This problem is solved as follows: a vertical part must be provided in the design of the chimney, reaching a height of at least 1 meter. It should also provide for a layer of thermal insulation, which can be used as basalt wool.

A pipe should go from it, located at a slight angle and having a similar diameter. She has special name - boar. With its help, conditions will be created under which it is possible to ensure the combustion of gases, as a result, the heat supplied to the room at their expense will increase by 30%. In length, such bars can reach 2.5-4.5 meters. It should be placed no closer than 1 meter from the walls and ceiling. Between the bottom of the furnace and the pine forest there must be a space 2 meters wide. It would be useful to provide protection for it based on a metal mesh.

Ever since its appearance and popularization of the potbelly stove changes were made to their design.. As a result, today they are long-burning kilns, characterized by ease of operation and a high level of efficiency. The modern version of these furnaces no longer provides for grates, while an air choke appeared at the blower, the main purpose of which is to regulate the heat output and combustion mode. To ensure long-term combustion, air enters the fuel from above.

Among the various options for bourgeois stoves, cast-iron stoves demonstrate the highest energy intensity. Such devices could work even without a screen. It was this feature that was taken into account when it was decided to use them. for heating army barracks. In our country, they have long been engaged in the manufacture of army bourgeois, and there are no complaints about the quality of their work. These installations differ in many parameters, including dimensions.

We assemble a potbelly stove with our own hands

In terms of design, such a furnace includes a firebox with a grate, a blower ash collector and a chimney. Any building is suitable as a place for installing a potbelly stove. The main thing is that there should be an opportunity to bring the chimney out. If you have an empty gas cylinder lying around idle, then you should not get rid of it. You can find a use for it if you make a potbelly stove case out of it.

Materials for assembling the stove

To make a potbelly stove with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

steel grating;
steel corners;
chimney pipe;
steel sheet;
door.

Necessary take a gas bottle and mark the place in the upper part where the iron rim with the tap is located. It must be removed, for which you can use a hammer.

Then you need to cut a hole for the door, having calculated its dimensions in advance.

The corners will serve you for a frame under the door, for the manufacture of which you will need welding.

After the frame is welded to the cylinder, it is necessary to install the door on the bolts, for which at the beginning it will be necessary to make the necessary holes for them.

In a place corresponding to the bottom of the oven, you should cut holes for the grate, after which it must be welded. On the other three sides, it is necessary to install steel sheets using welding. They will serve as walls for the future furnace. The result should be a box with a door that does not have a top. The box must be welded to the bottom, and this must be done so that the open side is adjacent to the door. Next, you need to install a damper, with which you can change the mode of air supply to the furnace furnace.

To give stability to the stove-stove, it is necessary to weld the legs to the gas cylinder. A hole is made on the back side through which gas will exit the chimney. After that, they begin to assemble the chimney, providing for a turn in it, which will allow the heat to leave the room with a slight delay.

The above scheme is applicable for making a do-it-yourself potbelly stove based on a 40 liter milk can.

How to make a potbelly stove from sheets of steel with your own hands

The design of the firebox of such a furnace should include partitions that will save you from having to spend a large amount of fuel to maintain the operation of the furnace.

Furnace assembly materials

To make a similar version of a potbelly stove, you you will need the following materials:

The first thing you need to do for a do-it-yourself potbelly stove is a drawing that will simplify the task of making it for you. Next, you need to take the sheets and cut out elements for the stove body and two partitions from them. The latter must be installed in the upper part of the furnace, in the future they will provide a complex, winding path for flue gases, which will ensure a higher efficiency of heat generation by the furnace.

At the top, you need to hole for a chimney with a diameter of 110 mm. You also need to position the hole for the hob, the diameter of which should be 150 mm.

Next, we take the sidewalls and fasten them by welding to the bottom of the case. Steel strips 30 mm thick must be welded to the walls. They will serve as the basis for the lattice. It can also be created from a steel sheet, in which you must first make a hole with a diameter of 20 mm. To create a grate, you can use reinforcing bars or purchase finished products in a store.

Conclusion

Although a potbelly stove seems to be a rather outdated version of a heating device, it is still remains in demand. In stores you can find many options for modern stoves, but it would be better if you make a drawing for it yourself. This will allow you to create with your own hands such a stove that will completely suit you in all respects. In addition, there will be no problems with this, given that such an oven has a simple design, and its manufacture requires affordable materials that can be found in almost every household.

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