Homemade cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. Making a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. The main disadvantages of this design

From the very beginning of work in the workshop, I faced the problem of removing dust after work. The only opportunity available to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, just an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a tangible layer on furniture, on machine tools, on tools, in hair and lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop exacerbated the problem. Some solution was to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. In winter, water freezes in an unheated room and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to workplace hygiene. Firstly, the respirator does not block all 100% of the dust, some of it is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all back streets can be climbed with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust from there.

In such a situation, the most effective solution would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of work (especially if you work on a milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust, greatly exceeding the calculated values, will greatly affect the resource of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.

There are many off-the-shelf solutions for workshop dust removal, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. On thematic forums, I found an interesting solution - to use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a conventional household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems of household vacuum cleaners are solved if dirt and dust are removed from the air to a standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some collect cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, others from plywood and everything that is enough for imagination. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.


The principle of operation is simple - the air flow is twisted in the cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the action of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.

One of the frequent problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called "carousel". This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust container, but swirl endlessly inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a speed of the air flow created by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. It is necessary to reduce the speed a little and the "carousel" will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the "carousel" into the container and takes its place. And in the second model of plastic cyclones, this carousel practically does not exist. To eliminate air leakage, I smeared with hot glue the junction of the filter with the cover.

I decided to take a larger dust container so that I had to take out the garbage less often. I bought a barrel of 127 liters, produced, it seems, in Samara - the size is right! I'm going to carry the barrel to the trash can like a grandmother carrying a shopping bag - on another cart, so as not to overstrain.

Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collector permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply put a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them to the right place. I wanted to make a mobile unit on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one block.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to cook the body of the installation from metal. A frame made of a profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

With a vertical layout, there is a possibility of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The tangible weight of the trolley is offset by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure is not stable enough, to fill the cavity of the frame with lead shot or sand. But this was not required.

In order to achieve the verticality of the rods, it was necessary to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vise came in handy. Thanks to such a simple equipment, it was possible to achieve accurate installation of angles.

It is convenient to move the trolley by holding on to the vertical bars, so I strengthened their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame with the help of clamps.

At the top of the rods is a platform for a vacuum cleaner. Further, holes will be drilled in the corners in the lower part and wooden planks will be fixed with self-tapping screws.

Here is the whole frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I did not seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage with high quality. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Goggles and a welded mask fog up quickly, impairing visibility, bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is done. Besides, spring is only a couple of weeks away.

I really did not want to leave the frame in this form. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
Esteemed thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in frost, as long as the paint is not water-based and there is no condensation on the part. And if the paint is with a hardener, then do not bathe at all.
I found an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite in the stash, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha in the summer -. The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original thinner, Hammereit added some regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began to paint.
In summer, this paint dried in one hour. It is difficult to say how long it dried in the winter, but when I returned to the workshop by the evening of the next day, the paint had dried. True, without the promised hammer effect. Probably the degreaser is to blame, not the negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The cover looks and feels secure. Perhaps it is not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The body of the cyclone is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But fastening the filter to the lid of the barrel is rather flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into the plastic. At the same time, significant lateral loads can occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel must be strengthened. People approach this problem in different ways. Basically, they collect an additional stiffening frame for the filter. The designs are varied, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this a little differently. A holder for pipes of a suitable diameter was welded onto one of the rods.

In this holder, I clamp the hose, which accounts for all the twists and jerks. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any stress. Now the unit can be pulled behind you right by the hose without fear of damaging anything.

I decided to fix the barrel with tie-down straps. When choosing locks in a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter lashing strap with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and a bare Russian-made frog-type lock lying next to it would cost me 250 rubles. That's where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology.

Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on the forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connected to a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during the tests, I deliberately blocked the opening of the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But due to the very tight grip of the clamps, the barrel did not shrink completely, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself with a click.

At the top of the unit is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

As a household vacuum cleaner, I bought a bagless almost two-kilowatt monster. I was already thinking, and at home I would need such a thing.
When buying a vacuum cleaner on an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. The people sell used things without a guarantee, with a depleted part of the resource, flaws in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some running things, but second-hand vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of placement of ads, this trade sometimes drags on for years. And as soon as you start haggling and calling an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days, I still found a great option for myself for 800 rubles. Well-known brand, 1900 watts, built-in cyclone filter (already the second in my system) and another fine filter.
For its fastening, I did not come up with anything more elegant than pressing it with a tie-down strap. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to fiddle a bit with the hose connections. As a result, we have such a setting. And she works!

Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such gizmos, people choke with delight. Here is something similar and I experienced the first time I turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone walks in street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, impossible to sweep due to dust stuck in the pores, so clean before. Persistent attempts to sweep it only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

In the barrel, we managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom. During operation of the device, due to the translucence of the filter, you can observe dust wisps swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but it was a small amount and these were especially light and volatile fractions.

Very pleased with the result. No more dust storms in the workshop. You could say I'm entering a new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, due only to the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be dragged and pulled by the hose without being afraid to pull out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still ran into the problem of a lack of barrel rigidity.
Bought a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but sucks like a beast - sucks stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and pulls bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner slammed the blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tight girth of the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, sorry. But it looks like this:

Thematic forums warn of such a possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy a metal barrel instead of a plastic one. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not give a result.
2. Self-assemble a box of the desired size from 15 mm plywood. Here it is more real.

The box was assembled on self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed with double-sided foam tape.

The trolley had to be altered a little - the rear clamp was digested for a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and volume increased due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a trash bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). The old barrel did not allow this.

The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher, I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out.

Well done. Nice, functional, safe. How I love.

When machining various materials, large amounts of chips can be generated. There are many difficulties with its removal by hand. To significantly simplify the procedure under consideration, special devices called chip blowers began to be used. They can be found in specialized stores, the cost varies in a fairly wide range, which is associated with the functionality, performance and popularity of the brand. If desired, such equipment can be made by hand, for which it is enough to know the varieties and the principle of operation.

Principle of operation

Do-it-yourself cyclone-type chip blower is possible only after determining the basic principles of operation. Features include the following points:

  1. A small corrugated hose is connected to the main body, which concentrates and enhances traction. The tip can have a different nozzle, it all depends on the specific task.
  2. At the top of the structure is the engine, which is directly connected to the impeller. During rotation, the air is discharged, due to which the required thrust is created.
  3. During suction, the chips settle in a special container, and the air is removed through a special pipe, on which a coarse filter is installed.
  4. A fine filter is also installed on the outlet pipe, which traps small particles and dust.

In general, we can say that the principle of operation of cyclone type chip blowers is quite simple, due to which the design is characterized by reliability.

Chip blower types

Almost all models of cyclone type chip blowers are similar. At the same time, the main mechanisms, for example, an engine or a cyclone system, may differ slightly, which determine the main classification. All cyclone-type chippers can be conditionally divided into several categories:

  1. For domestic use.
  2. Universal.
  3. For professional use.

When choosing a model for a home workshop, attention should be paid to the first two groups of equipment. This recommendation is due to the fact that their cost should be relatively low, while performance will be sufficient.

With frequent work with the workshop, a large number of chips and with the professional provision of cleaning services for workshops and other premises, it is necessary to consider when choosing cyclone-type chip extractors from the professional group. This is due to the fact that it is characterized by higher performance and reliability, can withstand long-term use.

Chip blower cyclone type

Most models resemble a conventional vacuum cleaner, which, due to strong traction, sucks up large and small chips. However, even a powerful and high-quality vacuum cleaner cannot be used to clean the workshop. The main structural elements can be called:

  1. A flange-type electric motor is installed, the power of which is only 3.5 kW.
  2. To discharge the air, a fan with a durable and mechanically resistant impeller is installed. It must be large enough to generate the required thrust.
  3. The cyclone is designed to purify the air that will be thrown out. Its device is designed to filter large elements.
  4. A multi-stage filter significantly increases the efficiency of the procedure. This is due to the fact that at the primary stage there is a separation of large elements, after which small ones are separated. Due to multi-stage cleaning, you can significantly extend the life of the filter and increase its efficiency.
  5. The lower cyclone is designed for direct chip collection.
  6. A collection bag made of durable material is designed to temporarily store chips and other debris that have been separated from the passing air stream.

High-quality models have a sealed case, which is sheathed with sound-absorbing panels. To control the cyclone type chip extractor, an electrical or mechanical unit is placed; there must be a special hole to connect a corrugated hose with a nozzle.

It is not difficult to make a cyclone-type chip blower with your own hands, since it in many ways resembles a conventional vacuum cleaner with a large number of filter elements and high power. The device of the woodworking cyclone is characterized by high reliability, subject to the recommendations for operation, the device will last a long time.

Design features

In most cases, when self-manufacturing a cyclone-type chip blower, a low- and medium-capacity motor is installed, which can be powered from a standard 220V network.

More powerful units are supplied with three-phase motors, with the power supply of which in domestic conditions there are quite a few difficulties.

Among the design features, it should be noted that the impeller is installed to provide a spiral swirl of the air flow. In this case, heavy particles are dumped into a special container, after which the centrifugal force again raises the air to remove it.

Preparatory work

When making a structure with your own hands, you can save a lot, but some mechanisms still cannot be assembled on your own. An example is the most suitable motor and impeller. The following actions can be attributed to the preparatory stage:

  1. Formation of an action plan for the assembly of home-made equipment.
  2. Finding a suitable electric motor, checking its condition.
  3. Selection of other mechanisms that cannot be made by hand.

In the carpentry workshop, much that is required to create cyclone-type chip blowers can be made by hand.

Instruments

Depending on the chosen scheme, a variety of tools may be required. The easiest way is to make the outer case out of wood. It is to it that other elements will be connected. The recommended set of tools is as follows:

  1. Indicator and multimeter.
  2. Chisel and other tools for working with wood.
  3. Screwdriver and various screwdrivers, hammer.

The simplicity of the design determines that it can be made with the most common tools.

Materials and fasteners

The created device must be light and airtight, and also withstand the pressure exerted by the swirl of air. For its manufacture you will need:

  1. The body can be assembled from plywood, the thickness of which is about 4 mm. Due to this, the design will be durable and lightweight.
  2. For the manufacture of other parts, wood blocks of various thicknesses will also be required.
  3. Polycarbonate.
  4. The filter can be taken from the injection type VAZ. This filter is cheap and will last a long time.
  5. The engine can be removed from an old powerful vacuum cleaner, the impeller will be mounted on the output shaft.
  6. To connect the main elements, you will need screws, self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts, as well as sealant.

After finding everything you need, you can begin to work.

Making a cyclone filter

As previously noted, it is quite difficult to make a filter; it is best to purchase a cheap ready-made version. However, it will also require a sealed landing site.

The seat is also made of wood. In this case, the main thing is to choose the right outlet diameter, since too small will lead to a decrease in throughput. It is not necessary to attach the filter, it is enough to create a block for it that will ideally fit in size.

Creating a retaining ring and curly insert

To fix the polycarbonate in the manufacture of the case, wooden rings are required. They must have an internal diameter that provides the required volume of the storage tank. Between the two fixing rings there will be vertical strips holding polycarbonate sheets.

You can make such rings in your home workshop if you have the appropriate skills and equipment. At the same time, do not forget that they must have high strength.

Retaining ring installation

You can start assembling the case by placing the fixing wheels and polycarbonate sheets. Among the features of this stage, the following points can be noted:

  1. Sheets are fixed on both sides with slats.
  2. The connection is carried out using self-tapping screws.
  3. To increase sealing, slots for sheets are created in the lower and upper rings, after installation of which the seams are sealed with sealant.

After assembling the case, you can proceed to install other structural elements.

Installing the side pipe

In order to exclude the possibility of a structure rupture due to clogging of the filter element, a side branch pipe with a safety valve is installed. To do this, a hole is created in the polycarbonate sheet, which is closed on both sides by the body of the safety pipe.

A rubber gasket should be placed between the wooden planks and the wall, the degree of sealing can be increased by using a sealant. Fasten the element to the body with bolts and nuts.

Setting the top entry

Chips and air are sucked in from the top of the structure. To accommodate the top entry, a small housing is created in which the nozzle from the old vacuum cleaner is placed.

When using a special nozzle, a reliable fixation of the suction hose is ensured, which, moreover, can be quickly removed if necessary. That is why you should not make it yourself.

Curly insert installation

A figured insert is also required to connect the inlet pipe. It must be positioned so that air with particles can enter without obstruction.

As a rule, a figured rate is located opposite the fan, due to which the air flow is swirled. Seams are best treated with sealant, which will increase the degree of insulation of the structure.

Assembling the cyclone filter

After creating a housing to accommodate the filter, it must be installed in its place. It should be borne in mind that electronic elements that provide power to the electric motor will also be located inside.

Another branch pipe is diverted from the outer part of the cyclone filter housing. It will be required to divert the air flow.

Chip blower selection principles and main manufacturers

A fairly large number of different companies are engaged in the production of cyclone-type chip blowers. The principle of operation of the device does not differ, only the power and reliability of the design increase.

Cyclone-type chip blowers of foreign brands are more popular, domestic ones are cheaper, but serve much less.

Recently, I have become interested in working with wood and the question of removing chips and sawdust has become very acute. So far, the issue of cleaning the workplace is being solved with a home vacuum cleaner, but it quickly clogs and stops sucking. You have to shake out the bag often. In search of a solution to the problem, I reviewed many pages on the Internet and found something. As it turned out, quite workable dust collectors can be made from improvised materials.

Mini vacuum cleaner from a plastic bottle

Here is another mini venturi vacuum cleaner idea
such a vacuum cleaner works from forced air.

Venturi effect

The Venturi effect is the drop in pressure when a liquid or gas flows through a constricted portion of a pipe. This effect is named after the Italian physicist Giovanni Venturi (1746-1822).

Rationale

The Venturi effect is a consequence of the Bernoulli law, which corresponds to the Bernoulli equation, which determines the relationship between the speed v liquid, pressure p in it and height h, on which the considered fluid element is located, above the reference level:

where is the density of the liquid, and is the free fall acceleration.

If the Bernoulli equation is written for two flow sections, then we will have:

For a horizontal flow, the middle terms on the left and right sides of the equation are equal to each other, and therefore cancel, and the equality takes the form:

that is, with a steady horizontal flow of an ideal incompressible fluid in each of its sections, the sum of the piezometric and dynamic pressures will be constant. To fulfill this condition, in those places of the flow where the average fluid velocity is higher (that is, in narrow sections), its dynamic head increases, and the hydrostatic head decreases (and hence the pressure decreases).

Application
The Venturi effect is observed or used in the following objects:
  • in hydraulic jet pumps, in particular in tankers for products of the oil and chemical industries;
  • in burners that mix air and combustible gases in a grill, gas stove, Bunsen burner and airbrushes;
  • in Venturi tubes - narrowing elements of Venturi flowmeters;
  • in Venturi flowmeters;
  • in water aspirators of the ejector type, which create small vacuums using the kinetic energy of tap water;
  • atomizers (sprayers) for spraying paint, water or air aromatization.
  • carburetors, where the Venturi effect is used to draw gasoline into the inlet air stream of an internal combustion engine;
  • in automated swimming pool cleaners that use water pressure to pick up sediment and debris;
  • in oxygen masks for oxygen therapy, etc.

And now let's look at the samples that can take their rightful place in the workshop.

Ideally, I would like to get something similar to a cyclone filter, but from improvised materials:

Homemade chip separator.

The principle is the same, but made much simpler:

But this option I liked the most, as it is a reduced analogue of an industrial cyclone:

ch1



Since I don’t have a traffic cone, I decided to stop at just such a structure, assembled from plastic sewer pipes. A definite plus is the availability and cheapness of the material for assembling the structure:

Homemade cyclone from plastic sewer pipes


Please pay attention to the mistake that the master made. The garbage collection pipe should be located like this:

In this case, the desired vortex will be created.
The following video shows a similar design in action:

And finally, a slightly modified version:

A home vacuum cleaner is so familiar to the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, the only possible way to separate dust from clean air has been used - a filter.

Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag of dense tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that hold the smallest particles of debris. At the same time, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.

Filter makers are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and air throughput. In addition, the dirtier the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.

He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. Needless to say, this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal scorch and chip accumulators of the “cyclone” type for a long time.

But no one guessed to apply this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986, he registered a patent for the first cyclone type vacuum cleaner, called G-Force.

In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:

  1. filter membrane. The most massive and cheapest way to remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
  2. Water filter. Air with garbage passes through a container with water (as in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air stream enters the outlet. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to the high cost.
  3. Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the "cyclone" type. It is a compromise in terms of cost and quality of cleaning in comparison with a membrane and a water filter. Let's take a closer look at this model.

The principle of operation of the cyclone

The illustration shows the processes taking place in the cyclone filter chamber.

Polluted air enters the cylindrical filter housing (2) through the pipe (1). The branch pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) is twisted into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.

Under the action of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity, they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest debris particles (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After the final cleaning, they exit to the intake fan (7).

The membrane filter is minimally contaminated and only needs to be cleaned occasionally after cleaning. All the dirt is simply poured out of the drive, and the vacuum cleaner is ready to work again.

Vacuum cleaners with such a filter are cheaper than water ones, but still more expensive than membrane ones. Therefore, many craftsmen make a cyclone-type filter with their own hands, and connect it to the entrance to a conventional vacuum cleaner.

When carrying out repair and construction work, a lot of garbage appears. Sawdust, shavings, scraps of materials mixed with dust should be cleaned regularly. Conventional sweeping with a mop is excluded due to the specifics of the work, if dust and small particles can stick to the surface, for example, after priming or painting.

A conventional vacuum cleaner will not cope with such garbage or will fail very quickly. Household electrical appliances are designed for an average short-term load.

For such cases, specialized equipment is produced. A construction vacuum cleaner can work for a long time without stopping, has significant power, and it uses completely different filter systems than in household vacuum cleaners.

When to Use a Construction Vacuum Cleaner

Those who are constantly faced with construction, repair and carpentry work are aware of the need for timely cleaning of the workplace at the end of the stage. Cleaning can be carried out repeatedly within one day, so it is quite reasonable to want to make the process easier for yourself.

Pieces of foam and polyethylene film, drywall trimmings, chipped plaster, dust after cutting aerated concrete - all this garbage settles not only on horizontal surfaces, but, having become electrified, is attached to vertical walls.

Cleaning with a mop and dustpan is not always appropriate due to large areas, and washing will only turn dry dirt into wet slurry, especially in unfinished rooms.

An ordinary household appliance, due to the small size of the dust container, will quickly become clogged, it will have to be continuously cleaned. If large particles hit, there is a high risk of breaking the equipment.

It is in such conditions that the best solution would be to use a construction vacuum cleaner.

Pros and cons of a construction vacuum cleaner

High power allows professional equipment to work without interruption for a long time, and a long hose provides access to a remote area without the need to carry a vacuum cleaner or interrupt work.

But it also has disadvantages:

  • High price. If you need periodic or one-time work, buying a new expensive tool is not advisable.
  • Large size and weight.

Some craftsmen came up with a way out in the form of an additional option to the existing technology. At a fairly low cost, you can assemble a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. This design will increase the capabilities of an existing conventional household vacuum cleaner.

Making a cyclone with your own hands

On the Internet there is a huge selection of instructions for making a cyclone filter yourself, including with attached drawings and photographs. But they are united by a standard set of components.

So what we need:

Assembly instructions.

The main indicator that a do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner is assembled correctly will be debris collecting at the bottom or settling on the walls of the container, while suction will be fast and of high quality. Do not forget to control the tightness of the structure.

The history of the appearance of the cyclone filter

The creator of cyclone filter technology is James Dyson. It was he who first made a filter with a work based on the action of centrifugal force. Why did this device become so popular and in demand that the inventor filed a patent for it?

The filter consists of two chambers. Under the action of centrifugal force inside the unit, the debris begins to twist into a funnel. Large trash at the same time, it settles in the first chamber, the outer one, and dust and light debris are collected on the inside. So clean air comes out through the top hole.

The main advantages of the cyclone filter:

  • dust bags and their constant replacement are not required;
  • compact filter dimensions;
  • quiet work;
  • easy-to-remove lid allows you to regularly check the level of contamination and dispose of garbage in a timely manner;
  • speed and efficiency.

A vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter can be used both in everyday life and for professional purposes.