Schematic of the metal. Metal furnaces: pros and cons, designs, making homemade ones. Simple welded construction

Modern home furniture should satisfy not only the aesthetic taste of the owner, but also be comfortable and reliable. Today, in the interiors of trendy bedrooms, you can often see metal beds.

Simple design

Metal furniture is not only durable, it also brings a special flavor of avant-garde and modernism into the atmosphere of the room.

Diagram of a metal bed

Back to index

Self-manufacturing

Try to make a bed out of metal with your own hands. Thanks to this, you will get a stylish bed for the bedroom, significantly reducing the cost of the home budget for the purchase of furniture.

Scheme of the design and individual units of the bed.

Simple is characterized by special mechanical strength and ease of assembly. There are no bent elements in it, which complicate the assembly process of furniture models with ornate decorative elements. For the production of the described bed, common and commonly available materials are taken, supplied by the modern metal-roll market for the manufacture of metal furniture. Almost all points of sale will help to cut metal parts of the right size, corresponding to the drawings of the customer.

Back to index

Expendable materials

We will build the bed base from a profile pipe Ø 20x20 mm, and we will make the frame from a steel channel with outgoing dimensions of 65x32 mm. You will also need a 40x40 mm metal corner and a 2 mm thick steel sheet for blanking plugs and thrust bearings. The list and dimensions of the required parts are given in the table.

Table "Bed with your own hands"

The dimensions of the bed structure are directly related to the standard sizes of mattresses, having a width of 80-200 cm and a length of 190-200 cm. For a long time, everyone has loved mattresses 20 cm high with independent spring blocks. In such mattress products, in places of the highest load, there are reinforced longitudinal zones that create an orthopedic effect and extend the life of the mattress.

Back to index

Assembly Tools

Velcro sandpaper texture.

• welding machine;
• angle grinder (Bulgarian);
• drill with a drill for metal Ø 9 mm;
• roulette;
• square;
• square file;
• metal brush;
• sandpaper;
• paint brushes;
• primer for metal surfaces;
• paintwork.

Back to index

Construction manufacturing

Home production of a metal bed begins with the manufacture of its backs: profile pipes of the appropriate diameter are cut according to the dimensions from the table and laid out on a flat surface. It is advisable to carefully fix all the details in the desired position. Subsequent welding work is carried out with a constant check of the diagonals of the structure and right angles.

The next stage includes the manufacture of fastening brackets with a spike: 4 side and 2 central parts. These structural elements are made from the remaining cuts of the channel and with the help of an angle grinder, popularly called the "grinder". The spike of the bracket should have a slight bevel of 5º in relation to the vertical plane. The manufactured fasteners are welded to the bed headboards by welding at a distance of 35 cm from the floor.

Scheme of installation of metal bed brackets.

These elements - brackets - will subsequently be subjected to the greatest load, so they are welded to the bed headboards with a continuous seam.

Frames for mattresses are made of a metal corner and a channel. Steel corners - the end parts of the frame - are connected to long blanks from the channel - drawers. For high-quality docking and reliable welding of the side part and the transverse part, small sections are cut off at the ends of the corner along its horizontal shelf.

To insert the spikes of the brackets in the frames, you need to drill reciprocal holes. To correctly mark the holes, the bed headboards are placed in a vertical position, and welded frames are superimposed on them. On the lower shelf of the steel channel, the places of the spikes are marked. The holes are drilled with a drill with a Ø 9 mm drill bit. The shape of the drilled holes is adjusted to the shape of the tenon using a square file.

Scheme of docking frames for mattresses.

When the main part is assembled, it's time to make the lattice for the mattress. Steel strips of the appropriate size - 2 longitudinal and 6 transverse elements - are alternately welded to the bed frame.

Now all that remains is to weld the footrests (threads) and the top caps to the bedposts: Ø 22 mm circles, cut from steel, are carefully welded in the appropriate places.

Metal stoves are very popular due to their low cost, and are widely used for heating country houses, baths, utility rooms, garages.

For example, on the website of the company Teplodar https://www.teplodar.ru/catalog/otopitelnie-pechi-kaminy/ there are 6 stoves for heating a house and a summer residence at a price of 6,760 rubles.

But you can do it yourself, it's not so difficult. Of course, they have, as advantages, in comparison with brick ovens, but there are also disadvantages.

Design features

The simplest design of a metal furnace is the so-called potbelly stove. Its design is quite simple: a metal box with legs, a door, a pipe for removing combustion products. The main disadvantage of this furnace is high fuel consumption and low heat transfer. And also a big minus is the risk of fire.

The Russian name for this type of stove is based on an association with a caricature of a bourgeois, depicted as a man with a fat belly.

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%91%D1%83%D1%80%D0%B6%D1%83%D0%B9%D0%BA%D0%B0

Modern metal stoves are much safer than stoves. Their production is carried out from sheet steel, up to 4–5 mm thick. The design provides a special chamber for laying stones. It is planned to equip a water tank as a heat storage device with a volume of up to 70 liters. For uniform heating of the furnace, as well as to reduce its fire hazard, it is recommended to line the furnace with heat-resistant bricks.

Advantages

• The metal is quite strong, but also a more pliable material that allows you to give it any shape. Able to withstand large temperature differences and heavy loads during operation of the product.
• It is worth noting the high efficiency of a metal stove, reaching 95%.
• The thermal conductivity of the metal is high, respectively, the furnace warms up and the room heats up quite quickly.
• The strength of the metal with decreasing thickness only grows, in contrast to ceramics.
• The weight of the furnace is an order of magnitude, and sometimes more, lower than that of a stone or brick one, which in turn makes it possible to abandon the construction of a bulky monolithic foundation.
• The low cost of heat produced (for metal stoves is 10–20 times lower than for brick stoves) is another plus in the treasury of the advantages of this type of stove.
• An important factor is the transportability of such a stove and ease of installation on site, you only need to bring the chimney.
• As unnecessary, it can be easily removed for storage until the next heating season.

disadvantages

• Probably the most basic drawback is that the stove does not “breathe.” Whereas a brick stove absorbs moisture during cooling, thereby maintaining optimal humidity. A slight “breathing” of the furnace will appear after facing with bricks, but mobility will disappear, and dimensions will increase.
• Due to the low heat capacity of the metal, heat transfer after fuel combustion usually does not exceed 2-3 hours.
• A big disadvantage of a metal furnace is its lifespan. At operating temperatures, the metal actively reacts with moisture contained in the air, and as a result, it corrodes rapidly. The service life of a metal furnace usually does not exceed twenty years. But this is fully compensated by an easy and inexpensive replacement of the furnace and cheap fuel.

Kinds

At the moment, the market offers two types of metal stoves for the home made of cast iron and steel. Cast iron stove in terms of heat transfer is between brick and steel. The option of a cast-iron stove for making with your own hands disappears immediately, since it is necessary to organize the process of casting cast iron, which is basically impossible in a suburban area. This requires special equipment. But a sheet metal furnace can be built with your own hands, and in some cases practically without spending money.

Principle of operation and design

Consider the general scheme of operation of furnaces. The main applied schemes in the figures:

chamber system

In the furnace of the chamber system, the products of combustion are bypassed into the gas chamber and there they are burned out. The air flow is formed naturally. In chamber furnaces intended for domestic use, the furnace and the afterburner are located in one module - the crucible. For complete afterburning of gases, the chamber must be with vaulted walls. A good example of a chamber system is the Russian oven. With some improvement, chamber furnaces are quite efficient.

channel system

In the channel system, the forced movement of gases from the fire source, through the channels inside the stove, to the chimney is organized. The products of combustion, burning down and passing through the channels, cool down, giving off heat to the stove. The efficiency of such a furnace is about 60%, and in order for the gases to begin to burn out, you must first bring the furnace to an operating temperature of 400 degrees.

Bell system

In this system, the gases are under the dome of the hood and, when burned, descend along the walls of the furnace, giving off the remaining heat. In this system, to start burning gases, it is necessary to warm up a small area of ​​the bell dome. The efficiency in furnaces of this type can reach 70% or more.

Schemes of metal furnaces and improvements

It is well known that the metal heats up quickly, but it also cools down quickly, the low heat capacity makes it an unimportant heat storage, but if some properties of the material are taken into account, classical schemes can be applied to metal furnaces and get the most out of them, since heat losses for heating are minimized. Let's consider two schemes.

Chamber (A)

A typical representative is a "potbelly stove". Its prototypes, indoor stoves, were used in the 19th century and were extremely voracious in terms of fuel. In times of devastation and upheaval after the revolution, the “bourgeois” improved and was christened with its current name.

The following improvements have been made:

1. To adjust the heat transfer power, a grate was inserted into the crucible and a blower with a door.
2. The diameter of the chimney is 9–10 millimeters per 0.23 kilocalories of thermal energy.
3. Small height of the chimney, up to 3 meters from the plane of the grate.
4. The beginning of the chimney up to 1–1.5 m is made vertically and covered with heat-insulating non-combustible material.
5. Further, the chimney continued with a horizontal section - a pine forest - at least 2.5 m long, it was inserted into the window and another vertical segment of 1–1.5 meters was added to provide traction.

Duct (B)

The potbelly stove is easy to adapt to the channel scheme. Of course, only the appearance will be common with a brick stove. There will be little use from the channels due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal; only a horizontal section remains from the original system, separating the afterburner and the furnace. Additional air for afterburning gases comes from the holes on the hob or through a separate adjustable air duct. The outlet of the chimney is horizontal.

Improvement results:

1. Thanks to the afterburning of gases in a localized place, the efficiency has grown to 70-80%
2. The released thermal energy increased by 2–3 times.
3. The stove is undemanding to the traction force and the characteristics of the chimney, it behaves like a simple potbelly stove: the draft has increased, the combustion and rarefaction of the environment in the afterburner have increased. More secondary air enters and the gases will burn out completely.
4. Since the main power is produced in the afterburner, the furnace can operate in two modes: flame and long burning.
5. Good heat transfer from the furnace through a rather thin partition gives the afterburner the right temperature for the ignition of unburned gases, so the furnace enters the operating mode almost instantly.
6. Separate air supply to the furnace and afterburner allows the furnace to be adjusted for almost any solid fuel.
7. The heat transfer power of the furnace can be easily adjusted by the level of air supply on the blower. In a classic potbelly stove, air power control is very limited.
8. Thanks to the afterburner, the temperature under the hob is kept in the range of 250–300 degrees, which is quite comfortable for cooking.
9. The high release of thermal energy from the stove allows you to evenly and quickly warm up the room.
10. A heat exchange circuit for hot water supply can also be placed at the chimney inlet.
11. Using high-quality firewood or coal, you will have to clean the chimney once every 5 years.

Drawing and calculation of parameters

What dimensions the oven will have and how it will look like, everyone must decide for himself. People with engineering thinking and practical skills can make their own adjustments to the simplest design to improve and simplify the system.

Sketch and drawing of a potbelly stove:

Materials and tools

• Drawing and sketch of the future design with dimensions.
• Sheet metal, 4–5 mm thick.
• Steel corners.
• Steel pipes with a diameter of 15–20 mm or fittings with a diameter of 10–12 mm for the grate.
• Metal pipe with a diameter of 180 mm.
• Arc welding, electrodes 3.
• Angle grinder (grinder) with a cutting wheel, hammer, tape measure, pencil or marker.

How to make a metal oven with your own hands: step by step

1. The furnace body will be assembled from rectangular steel sheets, butt welded. We take a grinder and cut five rectangles according to the dimensions given in the drawing. We will deal with the front part later, as there will be a door for the firebox and a blower.
2. First you need to weld the sides to the bottom. We first substitute one side panel to the bottom, controlling the right angle between the planes with a square and tack the joint at several points by welding. We make the second sidewall by analogy with the first. We check the right angles, the width of the bottom corresponds to the distance between the side walls at the top where the hob will be. After making sure that everything is correct, we weld the joints completely.
3. We weld the back wall to the side panels and the bottom. We mark the side walls from the inside for the smoke circulation of the furnace and ash pan according to the drawing into three zones. There will be a grate between the firebox and the ash pan, on which the fuel is directly placed. To attach it to the inner surface of the sidewalls at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom, corners are welded to the entire length of the panels. Corners should be welded with the shelf down.
4. We proceed to the manufacture of the grate. From the materials you will need: trimming water pipes with a diameter of 15–20 mm and a length equal to or greater (the excess is cut off) of the internal width of the furnace. Instead of pipes, fittings with a diameter of 10-12 mm are perfect. Reinforcement or two steel bars with a diameter of 15–20 mm or strips of thick (4–5 mm) steel along the length of the stove.
5. We place the fittings (tubes) on the bars with a step of 3–5 cm and weld them securely.
6. The grill must be removable, so it is not welded to the corners. The need to remove the grate arises when cleaning and repairing the potbelly stove or replacing the grate itself.
7. Next, we weld two rods (pieces of reinforcement) at the top of the furnace to install the reflector. It will share the firebox with the afterburner and the chimney and is removable. More details in the picture:
8. The length of the reflector should be 10/11 of the length of the potbelly stove to create a gap for smoke to escape. It is desirable to make it from thicker metal, since it will heat up much stronger than other structural elements.
9. Let's get to the finishing touches. In the lid, we burn a hole of the required size and section for the chimney by welding, it can also be made already on the assembled structure. We weld the lid to the body of the stove. Then you need to cut two jumpers. One is narrow and the other is wide (the exact dimensions depend on the specific dimensions of the oven). The narrow one is welded at the level of the grate to separate the firebox and ash pan doors, and the wide one at the top to the sidewalls and the lid.
10. It is best to make a firebox door for almost the entire width of the stove, both for the convenience of laying firewood, and for easy removal of the mirror and grate. For the ash pan, you can make it narrower. Curtains are made of tubes and rod.
11. Door handles can be made from both metal plates and tube scraps. Alternatively, you can use the same universal fittings. We fix the finished handles by welding. I think with the manufacture of latches on the doors, there should be no difficulties.
12. Having finished the assembly, it is worth thinking about the supports of the stove. The legs can be made from pipe sections of the desired height. The supports can also be made adjustable in height, for this purpose a nut is welded to the end of the tube (the inner diameter of the nut and tube must match) and a bolt is screwed in.
13. Let's start making a chimney. For its manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of 15–20 cm will fit. We bring the end of the pipe outside the room through a hole in the wall or roof. The angles in the pipe should be 45 degrees, that is, there should be a complete absence of horizontal segments along the entire path. At the bottom of the chimney we make a rotary damper. It can be made from a piece of sheet steel, the diameter of the cut damper should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe. We drill a hole in the pipe for the damper adjustment knob, a steel bar is suitable for this purpose. We weld a sleeve from a pipe segment of 15–20 cm to the hole in the lid, in diameter it should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the chimney pipe in order to facilitate the installation or dismantling of the chimney as much as possible. It remains only to install the potbelly stove and test it.

Photo gallery: stove manufacturing process

Damper in the closed position Damper in the half-open position Checking the operation of the damper Assembled chimney Chimney installed on the stove

Lining

Metal stoves are often lined with bricks inside and out. But there are two reasons why this should not be done:

1. Brick has a rather low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity. The heat obtained from the combustion of fuel in the furnace simply flies out into the chimney along with smoke. not having time to warm up the metal walls of the potbelly stove.
2. The furnace surface is deprived of air access, thereby significantly accelerating the burnout of the walls and the risk of carbon monoxide entering the room, which is dangerous to human health and life.

Selecting and preparing the installation site

For this type of stoves, a monolithic foundation does not need to be built due to their low weight. To select the installation location, one should be guided by such parameters as the distance from doors and windows (for less heat loss) and the convenience of removing the chimney from the room. In garages and utility rooms, as a rule, there is a concrete floor, so nothing needs to be laid. In rooms with a wooden floor, a sheet of asbestos or tin should be laid on the installation site and fixed around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. Foil thermal insulation can be glued to the walls near the installation site to avoid heat loss.

decoration

To decorate a potbelly stove, you can use fireclay plates or decorative metal linings, or you can simply paint the stove with special heat-resistant paints to your taste, after cleaning the surfaces with sandpaper.

Exploitation

Here are some safety tips to keep you and your loved ones safe:

• The stove must be on a refractory base.
• All flammable objects and liquids must be kept at a safe distance of 80–100 cm from the oven.
• You should not completely clog the firebox with firewood at one time.
• Always make sure that the firebox door is closed when using the stove.
• Regularly inspect the chimney for leaky places to avoid smoke entering the room.
• Do not leave the oven running for a long time unattended.
• Do not try to touch the body of the oven while it is in operation to avoid burns.

Cleaning and maintenance

With intensive use of the stove, soot and dirt are deposited in the chimney channel, and gradually accumulating, it narrows the channel clearance, which entails a decrease in traction and overall design efficiency. It is enough to check the chimney once a year for the presence of dirt and, if necessary, clean it from soot. There are several ways to clean the chimney pipe:

• Mechanical, brush or brush.
• Chemical, by burning potato peels in a furnace, while the released starch softens the soot and it comes out.

For best efficiency, you can combine these two methods. Carbon deposits are best removed from the walls of the furnace with a metal brush. The mirror and grate are easily removed for replacement or minor repairs.

Video: how to make a potbelly stove yourself

Making a metal furnace on your own is not such a difficult task as it might initially seem. Of course, this design is not the only option of its kind, but already proven and reliable.

It is planned not one floor, but two or three, it is necessary to think over the design that will lead to the upper tiers. A drawing of a metal staircase, created on the basis of measurements, will help facilitate the work and make the arrangement process accessible.

Schemes and drawings of metal stairs

The design of the metal staircase has all the necessary safety and durability parameters. That is why they often rely on this type of product. The metal is practically not subject to corrosion, advantageously emphasizes the style of the room and brings rigor and elegance to the design. Looking at the wide variety of metal stairs offered, one can understand that even a person who does not have experience in such incarnations can make them with his own hands.

The most important thing is to choose a design that will be feasible to draw, prepare and install in the space of the room or outside it.

Advantages

disadvantages

1. One of the disadvantages can be called the bulkiness of gangways and railings. But thanks to the skills of modern developers, you can easily choose a scheme that will best match the load for a particular room.
2. Some curves and decorative elements are difficult to bring to life without special skills.

Based on the priorities and disadvantages of the material and design in general, one can bet in favor or against such a decision.

Metal staircase on stringers

It is much easier to make a drawing of a metal staircase if the structure is equipped with stringers. This is due to the fact that you need to calculate the distance for each step and prepare the material, which will subsequently be fixed to the base. Stringers are the base (base) in the form of a future staircase.

It can be made from different materials and be fixed as required by the room. Of course, measurements are still required to purchase suitable stringers.

After all, the design must fit the parameters of the space allocated for the stairs. A ladder on metal stringers will help even inexperienced craftsmen to complete the installation task.

The main thing - correctly with a mark of the place where the gangway will be located. And also have at hand the tools and materials necessary to implement this idea in your own home.

Advantages

Due to the fact that gangways equipped with stringers have earned their calling, the positive aspects of such a solution are obvious:

• This makes the work process easier;
• Allows you to easily organize the order of actions;
• Such designs are strong and durable;
• Thanks to the stringers, even an inexperienced specialist or just the owner of the house will be able to realize his plans and make it a reality;
• This element allows you to devote more time to details and design experiments that will decorate.

These are far from all the positive aspects of the stairs on the stringers; each owner of a private house finds his own independent advantages.

disadvantages

It is necessary to correctly determine the size of the base for the steps so that the design fits clearly into the interior. It is easy to make such calculations. Simply measure the height, angle and width of the desired installation.

How to draw a metal staircase drawing

Making a drawing of a metal staircase with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, you need to measure the space in which the steps leading to the second floor will be located.

Required materials for measurement

In order to carry out the measurement of space, the following accessories should be at hand:

• Roulette with maximum length;
• Surface level gauge;
• Chalk or a special felt-tip pen with which you can make the necessary marks on the wall, floor and ceiling.

This is the minimum set of accessories that will help you quickly and efficiently carry out the measurement process.

Required materials for the drawing

To make the scheme as accurate and correct as possible, you should also prepare a number of stationery items. Namely:

• Sharpened pencil or black marker with a thin rod;
• A sheet of paper or whatman paper;
• Ruler;
• Compass.

The diagram should be drawn carefully and accurately so that during the direct installation process, errors that are difficult to correct are not made.

What parameters need to be measured

In order not to miscalculate and correctly make a drawing with your own hands, you will need to make the following measurements:

After taking measurements, you can transfer the recorded parameters to a sheet of paper, forming a diagram of future gangways.

What nuances must be taken into account in the process

When carrying out measurements, be sure to pay special attention to the following factors:

What are metal stairs

It happens differently, but each of them is worthy and we often choose. The designs of metal stairs are:

Even a novice master can handle this if he knows how to handle a welding machine.

Of course, you won’t succeed immediately with a complex model, but it’s quite affordable to make and install a basic model of an entrance door.

The importance of the front door is hard to underestimate.

This is not only the first and main frontier preventing the penetration of dishonest citizens into your home, but also one of the key details of the interior of a residential building.

Noise isolation and regulation of the air temperature in the room are two more functions of the entrance metal door.

And if you start a major overhaul in the apartment, then the question of installing a new entrance metal door is one of the first to be decided.

A ready-made door purchased in a store does not at all guarantee that there are no hidden defects in it, and the prices there are not always affordable, adjusting it will be difficult, and sound insulation will probably not suit you.

Well, self-made shaped doors are still ahead of you, and we will start with the simplest.

As in other cases, the manufacture of a metal door begins with paperwork, in other words, we have to create a drawing.

In order for the drawing to be accurate and true to reality, you have to decide on the dimensions.

The design diagram of the front door offered for review will introduce you to the names and location of the main components and elements.

We are preparing a scheme

The drawing of the entrance metal door is a large-scale diagram of the door leaf, according to which the assembly and installation of the product will be carried out, with the dimensions of the door frame applied to it, the locations of the stiffeners, hinges.

We arm ourselves with a tape measure and take measurements from the doorway.

The standard door size is 90 x 200 cm, if the actual dimensions of the opening are much larger than the data, it makes sense to install a separate block on top or on the side of the door leaf.

The side block can be made deaf or hinged, and the top block can be closed with sheet iron, glazed or barred.

All this is also applied to our drawing.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm less than the doorway - this will be the mounting gap in which the installation of the unit is adjusted to avoid distortions. Below is a sectional diagram of a metal door.

Most often, the door is attached to 2-4 hinges, their number depends on the weight that your design has.

Loops are external and hidden, the second option is more difficult to manufacture and requires certain skills.

Since we are trying to make a "door for beginners", we will focus on the first option.

To evenly distribute the load, the hinges must be made at an equal distance between them, and the upper and lower hinges must be located at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the door.

You can make stiffeners in any direction - horizontally, vertically or with a mesh, as well as diagonally - everything is up to you.

The ribs must be made so that they do not pass in places where the installation of the lock, peephole, door handle will be performed.

You determine the number of ribs yourself, it must ensure the inflexibility of the door under its own weight, otherwise the door will need to be repaired after a while.

So, the drawing is ready.

We prepare materials and tools

Having decided on the dimensions, we prepare a set of tools that we will need during the work, calculate the amount of materials needed and go to the store.

We offer you an approximate list of tools:

• welding machine;
• drill;
• a set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
• Bulgarian;
• clamps;
• files or grinder;
• goats or door table for assembly;
• measuring instruments (corner; tape measure, etc.);
• building level.

For a metal door of a standard size, you will need:

• steel sheet 2-3 mm thick - 100 x 200 cm;
• metal corner 3; 2 x 3; 2 cm - 6 p.m. (for door frame);
• profile pipe 5 x 2; 5 cm - about 9 running meters. (for the door frame and stiffeners);
• metal plates 40 x 4 cm 2-3 mm thick - at least 4 pieces (for attaching the door frame to the walls);
• door hinges;
• lock;
• accessories;
• anchor bolts;
• anti-corrosion coating;
• paint for metal;
• assembly foam.

Fittings and lock choose to your taste. Manufacturers offer a wide range of locks, the most reliable of which are three-way.

A lock with crossbars on three sides, of course, is more difficult to install, but it is also not easy to crack it.

If you are making a metal door for a utility room (barn), then it is allowed to make a lightweight economical option - in this case, a thick reinforcing bar is used instead of a profile pipe for stiffeners.

Door assembly

The work on assembling a metal door is carried out in several stages.

Assembling the box

From the professional pipe, it is necessary to make blanks for the box, cut the corners inward at an angle of 90 °, lay out the corner with a rectangle, fix it with clamps and grab it by welding.

After we check the perpendicularity of the sides with a square, and also measure the distance between diagonally opposite pairs of corners and compare, the measurements obtained should be equal.

If there is a skew, then additional adjustment will be required. If everything is in order, then we perform the final welding and grinding of the seams.

The same scheme will later be used by us to assemble the door frame.

We weld metal mounting plates to the box.

Assembling the door panel

Here we need a new measurement - we take measurements along the inner walls of the door frame.

Stepping back 7-10 cm on each side, we get the actual dimensions of the frame of our metal door.

We cut segments of the required length from the corners and perform pre-processing, similarly to the blank for the door frame.

We lay the prepared corners inside the finished box, forming a rectangle, and carry out a control measurement of the correctness of the design.

If necessary, we make adjustments and weld the joints tightly.

We proceed to the manufacture of the door leaf, for which we lay the steel sheet on the table (goats), place the finished frame on top and draw a contour of the desired dimensions, retreating from the outer edges of the frame by about 10 cm.

We cut the sheet along the contour, grind the cut points and weld it to the frame.

Be careful, in order to avoid deformation, do not weld with a continuous inseparable seam.

It is much more functional to weld in lengths of about 30 mm at intervals of 15-20 mm in the direction from the center to the edges of the product.

Take your time, periodically let the doors cool down, otherwise hidden defects may appear, and the door will have to be repaired in a short time.

We lay the door leaf on the table with the outer side down, you need to install the door frame on top.

Using pads 2-5 mm thick around the entire perimeter, the position of the box relative to the frame is adjusted.

In this gap, a sealing tape will later be installed, which will improve the qualities of the door, such as sound insulation.

On the finished door leaf, we make cuts for the internal lock and, if necessary, under the peephole, drill holes for attaching the door handle, and carefully grind the edges of the holes.

The size of the cut for the lock should be such that its installation is without play, but provides access to the lock if repairs are required.

We will embed the lock itself and install the fittings a little later.

If you use a padlock, then you need to install the door leaf and the lining box for it at the same level.

We fasten half of the door hinges with grooves to the door frame, weld the second parts of the hinges (with pins pointing upwards) in the appropriate places to the door frame so that they are located on the same axis, grind the welding points.

Some hinges are equipped with holes for lubrication, in which case their installation should provide access to technological holes and the ability to remove the door if repairs need to be made.

We wipe the metal structure from dust and chips so that hidden defects do not appear after painting, apply anti-corrosion protection, on top of which, after drying, you can tint or make a decorative finish.

You can learn more and visually about the process of manufacturing an entrance metal door using the video below.

We mount the door

We place the door frame in the opening and carry out the adjustment with the help of a plumb line and level, so that repairs do not have to be done in the near future.

Having achieved the correct position of the box, we make the installation, fixing the steel hinges to the wall with the help of anchors, we hang the door leaf on the hinges.

We check - if the installation is done correctly, then the metal door will close and open without distortion, without catching on the door frame, and the hinges will move effortlessly.

At the final stage, the peephole is installed, the lock is inserted and the handle is installed.

The lock and handle are bolted to the door so that they can be easily repaired or replaced later.

Having completed the installation of the lock, we rub the end sides of the crossbars with chalk and make marks on the door frame. We cut the metal according to the resulting marks, forming grooves for the crossbars.

For additional protection of the lock from possible breaking, we weld a piece of the corner to the door leaf at the exit points of the crossbars, it also makes sense to reinforce the door leaf at the place of installation of the lock by welding a 6 mm thick steel sheet from its inside.

At the same stage, the operation of the lock, the density of closing the door are adjusted.

Another video for those who make repairs gives very relevant recommendations on how to properly strengthen the door and embed the lock, how it is adjusted.

Now you can start finishing.

At the very beginning of the article, it was already mentioned that the metal door at the entrance to the house should perform some functions, such as sound insulation, preventing foreign odors and low temperature air from entering the room.

The most practical, effective and cheap insulating material for finishing doors is generally recognized as ordinary foam.

We cut the foam into pieces of the desired size and lay them without gaps in the space of the door leaf between the stiffeners.

For better sealing, we will use mounting foam, which will seal the space between the foam and the stiffeners, around the lock, and also seal the interior of the stiffeners through pre-drilled holes.

Noise isolation is also excellently provided by mineral wool.

From the inside, a metal door can be sheathed with wooden slats, MDF panels or other finishing material, and we glue a sealing tape along the perimeter of the door leaf.

We foam the mounting gaps between the door frame and the slopes of the doorway. Our design is ready to go!

Now you can be sure that there are no hidden defects in this design, the quality of the entrance metal door is 100%, and doing the work yourself made it possible to save a considerable amount from the family budget when doing repairs.

The installation of the entrance metal door is demonstrated to us by the masters in this video tutorial.

Used virtually everywhere. They are installed not only in apartments of multi-storey buildings, but also in private households, baths, and various outbuildings. In addition to purchased ready-made options, some people prefer to create a home-made design, in which a drawing of a metal door will be a good help.

It is far from always possible to purchase a steel door leaf and a door block of good quality. The first problem is the pricing policy of the modern construction market. The second problem is that sometimes the doorway is very specific and the doors for it are made only on an individual order.

There is a simple way out of this situation. If there are practically no suitable products on sale, you can always make them yourself. The metal door has a simple design, which is quite possible to make with your own hands. To do this, there are various drawings and much more. A home-made design will have the required level of quality, and the amount spent on materials will not be very high. All work on the manufacture of entrance doors is divided into several simple steps.

Necessary materials, tool

The most expensive thing you need is metal. All other components and materials will not cost too much, of course, excluding decorative finishes. If you roughly estimate the amount for all expenses, then you need no more than 100-150 dollars. For this price, it is impossible to purchase even dubious Chinese products.

As for the materials necessary for the work, there are not many of them. You need to purchase a profile pipe - suitable with a cross section of 20 × 40 mm. The pipe should be purchased in the amount of 20 linear meters - this volume is quite enough for the production of a block of standard sizes (this is about 1 m wide and 2 m long). The amount of material for other dimensions is not difficult to calculate. In case of any incomprehensible situations, it is worth looking at the sketch - today you can find a lot of drawings of metal doors and use them for assembly.

Sheet metal is also required. Its thickness must be at least 2.5 mm. Overall dimensions - according to the size of the future door, or rather the opening.

You should also prepare the hinges, it is worth choosing models that are equipped with a bearing. These accessories are purchased in quantities of three. The canvas will be quite heavy, so three loops is the most reliable option.

In addition, accessories, thermal insulation, as well as materials for decorative finishing are additionally needed. Do not forget about consumables - these are circles for power tools, welding electrodes, drills, consumables for a jigsaw.

Of the tools, it is worth preparing a welding machine, a welding table, a grinder, an electric drill, a jigsaw.

Preparation and measurements

So, in most apartments it is 2000 × 800 or 2000 × 900 mm. If the existing opening is smaller or larger, then you can make a canvas for a special size. When taking measurements, it is worth making sure that it is the wall that is being measured, and not concrete or plaster.

In the event that the height of the box is slightly more than 2000 mm, then it is necessary to provide an additional frame on top, or in the side of the opening, if its width is more than 900 mm. In addition, you should remember about a gap of several tens of millimeters on each side of the box. This gap is necessary for blowing seams.

If the width of the opening is more than 1500 mm, then experts recommend making not a solid (monolithic), but a collapsible box. In cottages, in addition to the door leaf, two or more modules with glass are installed in wide openings, which make the structure more reliable and durable and perform a decorative function.

In the process of preparation, it is also worth starting to develop a drawing of a metal door. If the door leaf is unique and exclusive, then the drawing is done by hand. If the opening is standard, and the door structure will be a standard solution, then standard drawings can also be used.

Making a classic metal door

Classic steel doors are a structure made of leaf, frame, door hinges, as well as mounting plates.

Assembling the door frame

So, the first step is to assemble a box or block. To do this, according to the parameters obtained during the measurements, a prepared profile pipe is cut. Cutting is performed at an angle of 45 degrees. Cutting accuracy can be checked by joining two pieces, and then checking the resulting structure with a corner.

There is another way to produce a box. In this version, the frame is assembled from a metal profile by welding. The result should be a rectangular structure. During the assembly process, it is very important to control the accuracy of the corners, as well as measure the diagonals - this is done to eliminate the risk of block distortions.

Assembly of the door frame

At this step, blanks are made for the future frame. For these purposes, a metal corner is suitable. It is necessary to maintain a gap between the door frame and the frame on the side of the lock - it is approximately 5 mm. On the other sides, it will be enough if the gap is 3 mm. These are not exact numbers - in various drawings of metal doors, this size may be slightly different. To make it clearer, strips of metal of the required thickness are used to measure and control these gaps.

Next - the profile is marked and cut. It is put inside the resulting box. Then check the geometric characteristics of the structure along the diagonals. If everything is correct, then a groove or slot is made on one side of the profile for mounting the lock. After that, the corners of the frame can be tacked by welding, the frames along the perimeter are also tacked at several points.

At this step, it is already possible to weld metal strips to the door frame, which will act as clamps for finishing materials.

Door leaf manufacturing

The creation of the canvas should begin with markup. It is necessary to take into account the tolerances and overlaps of sheet metal on the door frame of 10-15 cm. The overlap from the side of the hinges is also taken into account. In various drawings of metal doors, it is 5 mm.

The steel sheet according to the drawings and dimensions is cut with a grinder and welded to the finished frame. Stiffeners are welded inside the canvas. They must be installed horizontally. If the level of rigidity is insufficient, then their number can be increased.

Lock installation

The door is almost finished. To install the lock, markup is performed directly on the canvas. You can mark the places for the holes with a regular marker. Then, according to the marks, a hole is drilled, which then needs to be processed with a file. Next - holes are made for the fasteners of the future lock. Threads are cut in the holes, then the locking device is fixed with bolts. At the end, install the handle.

This is a typical instruction that is suitable for most locks, but lock designs may vary, the installation itself depends on the product.

loops

Before welding these elements to the resulting structure - the doors and the block, they must be lubricated. With the help of a grinder, the places where the frame and the door block are connected are cut - these are the points that were previously tacked by the welding machine. Loops are fixed from the inside.

fasteners

To fasten the resulting structure into the opening, strips of metal are used. They need from 6 to 10 pieces. They are simply welded to the box. Then they will need to drill holes for the anchor bolts.

Warming and finishing

The door is almost ready. Now it remains only to insulate it. The thermal insulation option you have chosen is cut and laid inside the canvas. Lay the insulation between the stiffeners.

After that, you can start decorating the inside of the door. For these purposes, plywood, laminated panels, as well as any other material are suitable.

Metal door with glazing and decorative elements

Often, such models of doors are installed in private houses or in cottages. The window performs several functions - through it you can see who came. Also, thanks to the glass in the hallway will be much lighter. Decorative elements will decorate the canvas and give it an exclusive look.

The window in the door must be made even when cutting sheet steel. During its manufacture, you can draw a metal door, located at the beginning of our article. Reinforcement must be welded along the perimeter of a rectangular or any other shape of a hole in a steel sheet. Dimensions should be determined in advance. All other stages of work are similar to the manufacturing technology of a classic door.

After the structure is painted, a double-glazed window is installed in the place intended for the window. In order for the glass to be as reliable as possible, a forged decorative grille is often welded on the outside.

You can also equip the door block with various additional accessories. It can be closers, seals, eyes and much more. The main rule is that the accessories must be of high quality. Only then will it last for a long period of time.

Homemade door in comparison with the factory

The first minus is the rationality of this decision. The cost of materials and accessories is a considerable amount, while the simplest factory door will cost 30% more, and you will save a lot of time and effort. In addition, your skills as a welder are important. If you are not qualified enough, there is a risk of marriage being allowed. In any case, factory welding will be much better.

But generally speaking, a homemade metal door is not a utopia, but a real reality for those who have welding skills and experience with power tools.