Install the interior door on the foam. Mounting foam - the correct use when installing the door. Concealed installation, fastening under hinges

When repairing an apartment, sooner or later the time comes to change the openings of interior doors. How to install interior doors with mounting foam, see below.

The use of mounting foam when installing the door

Mounting foam is a one-component polyurethane foam sealant. This system. material has become very popular in our country. Nowadays, no one can imagine, for example, installing a window or door without using mounting foam. And no wonder - working with him is insanely good, the foam gets into the most inaccessible places and, freezing, fills them with a dense mass. Previously, cement and tow were most often used for such work: first, cement was kneaded, then the tow was impregnated and hammered into the cracks between the box and the wall. The installation procedure was long and often ineffective. Now a can of polyurethane foam is enough to get a good result without any effort.

But working with this material requires not only certain knowledge - instructions for use, as a rule, are placed on the tube - but also skills in handling it.

Let's share some professional techniques for working with mounting foam using an example.

PREPARATION FOR WORK

1 . The mounting foam fills the gaps between the wall and the door frame after the latter is installed. The bars of the box are usually fastened with dowels or, as in our case, with the help of plate metal connectors.
2 . The temperature of the balloon with polyurethane foam must be brought to room temperature, leaving it in the room for 24 hours. The optimal temperature for the Tytan Professional LOW EXPANSION foam that we have chosen to work with is +20°C. The temperature of the applicator (foam gun) must not be lower than the temperature of the container. Before starting work, the bottle should be shaken for 10 seconds.

CAP FILLING

The next operation is to fill the gaps between the box and the wall. It is recommended to do this with protective gloves.

3 . Work begins with the installation of an applicator on the balloon.
4 . When applying foam, the container should be held upside down.
5.6 . Vertical gaps must be filled with foam, starting from the bottom, moving up. For gaps wider than 5 cm, the use of mounting foam is unacceptable. Gaps from a width of 3 cm must be filled in vertical layers. Before applying each subsequent layer, you need to make sure that the previous one has reached the state of pre-treatment (its time is usually 30-45 minutes) and moistened.

7 . Do not fill the gap completely - the foam will increase in volume as a result of secondary expansion.

REMOVAL OF EXCESS FOAM AND INSTALLATION OF TRIM

8 . Tytan Professional LOW EXPANSION hardens rather quickly, and already 30-35 minutes after its application, you can cut off excess foam protruding beyond the door frame bars.
9 . As a result of the expansion of the mounting foam, the gap between the door frame and the wall must be completely filled.

10 . The final step in the installation of the door is the installation of platbands that close the gaps filled with foam.

Adviсe
If experience with foam is not enough, then in order not to stain the door frame, it is advisable to protect the side surfaces of its bars with masking tape. The surfaces of the box and wall should be cleaned and degreased.
To speed up the hardening of the foam, it is recommended to moisten the surfaces of the door frame and walls with water, it is more convenient to do this with a sprayer.
It is better to use foam with low secondary expansion to avoid the risk of deformation of the box after the agent used has set.
The volume of the applied foam roller and the speed of its application are controlled by the force of pressure on the trigger mechanism of the applicator. If the applicator has not been used for more than 15 minutes, it must be washed with a foam cleaner. Shake the can before re-application (application).

1. Mounting foam

Foam can be both well-known construction brands and noname, in principle it does not matter, the main thing is that it be polyurethane foam. I have been using various brands of foam for many years and the only difference I have found is the price. If you do not have a professional pistol (and when installing 3-5 doors, there is no need for such a pistol), then you need to buy foam with disposable nozzles inserted into the cap. The required amount of foam depends on the gap between the door frame and the wall or partition and on the width of the door frame. As a rule, one cylinder with a capacity of 750 ml is enough to install one door.

2. Plumb or good level

3. Wedges

Usually, wedges are made from improvised material: scraps of wooden beams, old door frames, baseboards, trim, etc. But in some cases, if the doorway is quite vertical and the gaps between the door frame (chute, jamb) do not exceed 1.5-2 cm, then you can use ready-made wedges:

These wedges are sold in sets of 20-100 pieces. in the departments of shops and supermarkets dedicated to laminate flooring. To install 1 door, you must have (or make) from 8 to 32 wedges.

4. Struts

Usually spacers are made from old skirting boards or platbands. For this purpose, you can also buy a beam with a section of 2.5-3x4-5 cm. I have never seen ready-made spacers for installing doors on sale, but I do not exclude this possibility. The number of spacers depends on the design and thickness of the door frame, as well as the thickness of the foam layer. If the door frame has a threshold and the thickness of the frame is 3 cm or more, then 1 spacer in the middle is sufficient. For boxes with a thickness of about 2 cm, it is advisable to put 3 spacers. For boxes with a thickness of 1.5 cm or less (and there are such), it is better to use wall or partition mounts.

5. Hammer or rubber mallet

6. Hacksaw, ax or chisel

For making wedges

Work performance technology:

Before installing the door, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with basic installation rules , but if this is not a secret for you, then let's go:

1. After setting the bottom of the door frame (on the side where the canopies) to the desired height, a wedge (1) is inserted between the door frame and the wall where the spacer will subsequently be installed.

2. Wedges (2) are driven in from above between the upper crossbar of the door frame and the doorway. Thus, the door frame is fixed in height:

The vertical position of the door frame in a plane perpendicular to the plane of the wall or partition is checked using a plumb or level. If necessary, the door frame can be gently hammered in the right direction using a piece of plywood or a wooden block. If there is a rubber mallet, then you can do without plywood or a bar.

3. To expose the door frame in a plane parallel to the plane of the wall or partition, a wedge (3) is selected. Verticality is controlled by a plumb or level.

4. After the vertical bar of the box with canopies is set to the design position, it must be fixed with a wedge (4).

5. After that, the door is put on the canopies. At this stage, the accuracy of setting the door frame is checked: the door opens at 30, 60 and 90 degrees. In all positions, after stopping by hand, the door must not continue to move. If the door starts to open or close by itself in one or more positions, check again the verticality of the box in both planes and, if necessary, knock out the wedges. Very often, the use of a low-quality level leads to this result, change the level to a plumb line or try to set the level as accurately as possible.

6. In order to determine the height of the second vertical (lock) bar of the box, you need to close the door and check the gap from above between the door leaf and the frame. To set the frame to the desired height from below, a wedge (5) is driven in between the door frame and the floor (floor covering), and in order for the box to be securely fixed, a wedge (6) is driven in from above:

7. With the door closed, the position of the lock plate is checked. The door should adjoin the door frame around the entire perimeter, distortions are eliminated with a hammer or rubber mallet.

8. If the door frame is without a threshold, then a spacer (7) is installed between the door frame slats from below and a wedge (8) is driven in. It is better to install the spacer not in a quarter of the door frame, but nearby, so that the door with the spacers installed can be closed and the position of the door frame can be controlled. It is better to make spacers not exactly the width of the door frame opening, but a little less, and when setting the spacers, use wedges or "covens" - strips of thin plywood (9). The spacer is not installed horizontally, but at a slight angle so that there is room for maneuver. If you need to increase the width of the opening, then the wedge is pulled out a little, and the spacer falls lower (closer to the horizontal position). If you need to reduce the width of the opening, then first the spacer is raised, and then the wedge is knocked out. The position of the lock plate of the door frame is controlled when the door is closed, here a plumb or level is not needed, since the door leaf can be slightly skewed and visually more important is the adjoining of the door leaf to the lock plate along the entire length, and not the vertical position of the lock plate.

9. Further, depending on the thickness of the door frame and the gap between the door frame and the doorway, another 1, 2 or 3 spacers are installed. The principle of installing the spacers is the same, the main thing is that the wedges between the box and the opening are as close as possible to the spacers. The farther the wedges are from the spacers, the more the box can bend, especially if the box is less than 2 cm thick. The spacer is inserted first, and then it is supported by wedges.

10. After all the spacers are set, the correct setting of the door frame is checked again, the immobility of the door in 3 positions. The floor is covered with newspapers or plastic wrap and within 3-5 minutes the gap between the door frame and the opening in the wall or partition is blown with foam. The rules for working with mounting foam are usually quite clearly stated on the packaging.

Usually the installation of the door takes 1-3 hours, only the dried foam will need to be cut off in a day, but if the thickness of the foam layer is less than 1.5 cm, then it can be cut off after 3-5 hours. If the wedges protrude beyond the surface of the box, they can either be pulled out with pliers or cut down with a chisel. It is advisable not to pull out the lower wedges on which the box stands, but, if necessary, cut it down.

That's basically it, good luck.

In modern construction, installation or repair, such a multifunctional, easy-to-use, reliable material as polyurethane foam is widely used. Its versatility and convenience greatly simplifies construction tasks for both professional builders and ordinary consumers who prefer to do some part of the repair or installation of door-windows on their own. Foam for installation in the construction market appeared relatively recently and immediately became one of the most popular, sought-after and capital-intensive products. However, it cannot be said that it was developed only today - the famous German technologist, chemist and industrialist Otto Bayer invented this substance back in 1947 - as a continuation of the development of the polyurethanes he invented. Polyurethane foam was originally used in the form of insulating boards for military purposes, as it is an excellent protection against the threat of radioactive radiation. In the 70s, the British company "Royal Chemical Industry" produced the first aerosol can with polyurethane foam, and the use in construction began in Sweden, at the dawn of the 80s of the last century.

Composition and scope

All mounting foams that are on the market contain almost the same composition and are polyurethane foam one-component sealant enclosed in an aerosol can. In addition to the liquid prepolymer, the can also contains propellant- gas under excess pressure, displacing the prepolymer. For hardening, the substance does not require mixing with other components - when sprayed, the composition inside the can solidifies on its own (polymerization process), under the action of moisture in the air, forming a porous material resembling foam plastic in properties. The cured foam is well and easily processed for the next construction steps - cut to the desired shape, puttied or plastered.

The name itself - "assembly", clearly indicates the scope - the use of door frames, window sills, window frames and any other wooden, concrete, metal or plastic structures during installation or repair. Filling the gaps between structures and openings gives a much greater sealing effect than the use of cement mortar, tow, mineral or plain wool, foam rubber, moreover, such work requires much less time and is much more convenient. When using foam, no additional tools and devices are required, and no energy sources are needed.

Properties

The substance can penetrate into the most inaccessible places, turning into a fairly solid material in a few hours.

The resulting material is not subject to the process of decay, has good temperature and sound insulation properties, and is also a sealing agent. In addition to filling gaps, cracks and cavities, polyurethane foam is used for insulation, sealing structures, additional fixation of water or heating pipes, electrical wiring, sealing materials for roofing - tiles or corrugated metal sheets. It is also widely used in the installation of stationary refrigeration units and in vehicles for the transportation of frozen products. Also important are such parameters as stickiness and dielectric properties, fire safety (this parameter is determined by the flammability class of the foam).

Sealing (thermal insulation)- allows you to insulate rooms by filling cracks - relevant for workrooms, warehouses, greenhouses, hangars, garages, etc. Filling gaps and cracks in the repair and installation of roof structures. Use when installing door and window frames - creating a moisture-resistant, heat-insulating seam. Filling the voids arising during the installation of water or heating pipes, which are formed when they pass through walls or floor slabs.
Gluing- you can quite confidently fix door and window blocks even without the use of nails or screws. This property also allows you to fix insulating or insulating materials - for example, when insulating a room with foam, foam boards can be glued to the wall.
Soundproofing- sealing the junctions of air conditioners and exhaust hoods, ventilation ducts, slots between pipes, allows you to reduce the noise level that occurs during vibrations.

Varieties

As noted above, the composition of the mounting foam is almost the same, regardless of the purpose of its use. But there are differences in the design of the cylinders themselves, and on this basis, the foam is divided into professional and household.

professional- or as the manufacturers themselves call it - pistol. Differs in existence in a cylinder of the special working valve. To work with such foam, it is necessary to use a special dosing device - mounting applicator gun. Such a gun is put on a balloon valve intended for it, as a result of which it becomes possible to dispense foam into slots and cavities. This mode will allow much more accurate control of the required amount of foam supply, while saving up to 30% of consumption. Also an important point is the ability to work with a gun with one hand. The energy-efficient handle and metering trigger make work much more convenient and, therefore, more productive. The presence of a long thin metal barrel allows you to supply foam to hard-to-reach places.

Balloon valves can be either threaded - screwed onto the gun, or "fastened" in one motion. Recently, almost all major manufacturers of mounting foam equip the cylinders with the so-called reusable valve, which allows you to hermetically close the cylinder with the remaining foam and use it after a while without drying out the contents. In addition, additional convenience is also inherent in it - you can work not only holding the can upside down, as was customary, but also with the valve up, which often makes work easier, and in some work, sometimes holding the can upside down is not only inconvenient, but also simple impossible.

The disadvantage of using an applicator gun is its considerable price, so it makes no sense to purchase it for occasional homework - this device is needed for builders and repairmen professionally involved in such installation work. In addition, during its operation, additional costs will be required - after each use, the gun must be washed with a special solution that cleans the internal cavities of the applicator from the remnants of foam that has not yet thickened. Such a cleaning agent is also contained in a pressurized can having nozzles to facilitate cleaning.

household foam- either semi-professional or manual. Its use does not involve the use of any devices other than the cylinder itself. To get started, you need to put on the valve the plastic tube that comes with the cylinder, which has a lever - adapter. With small amounts of work, this option is convenient and practical. As a rule, it is used in cases where the expansion of the foam is not too important - in ventilation shafts, interpanel seams, installation of door and window frames.

If not the entire volume of the balloon has been used, the tube can be removed, washed with a solvent (for example, acetone) and reused after some time.

Use temperature

summer foam- at the temperature indicated on the cans from 5C to 35C, the foam must be used at the temperature of the treated surfaces within the same limits. However, this temperature limit speaks only about the temperature during work, and the temperature resistance of the cured foam is in a much larger range - from -50C to + 90C - this applies to both summer and winter foam.
winter foam- the operating temperature range is from -18C (some types -10C) and up to + 35C. "Winter" options in their composition have special additives and additives that allow polymerization at a low percentage of humidity, since frosty air is much drier than at warm temperatures. Moisturizing surfaces in frost is ineffective - the water quickly freezes and becomes ice. It must be borne in mind that the already expanded foam depends on the external temperature - the lower it is, the smaller the expansion value. For example, 300 ml of liquid foam at +20C will expand to 30l, at zero - up to 25l, at -5C - about 20l, and at -10 - only 15l.
All season foam- appeared relatively recently, so not all manufacturers can offer it. It has the best properties of summer and winter foam, providing, thanks to an improved formula, a large volume of foam at the outlet, fast polymerization and the ability to work with it at -10C without heating the cylinder.

Requirements for mounting foam

Guaranteed Claimed Yield- competition for the market is often conducted by methods that are not entirely justified for the consumer - even manufacturers of high-quality and well-proven foam are trying to reduce the price of their products due to banal underfilling. For example, with a declared volume of 45 liters, only 37 liters actually come out, and no more than 50 out of 65 liters. Therefore, it is desirable to control the weight of the balloon - with a volume of liquid substance of 750 ml, the balloon should weigh 850-920 gr.
secondary expansion- also a fairly important indicator, especially when installing window sills, doors and windows.
The fact is that the expansion of the foam occurs in two stages - when the liquid polyurethane leaves the cylinder, the compressed gas expands, equalizing the pressure with the environment, and expands the pores of the composite, turning it into a foam with a much larger volume. This so-called primary expansion. Then, the foam, in contact with moisture, provokes a chemical reaction, as a result of which it hardens. But at the same time, CO2-carbon dioxide is released, which creates excess pressure in the pores of the foam, and its volume gradually increases over a fairly long period of time - even up to several days, although 24 hours are usually written. This is the secondary expansion of the foam. When installing window and door frames, the percentage increase in the secondary expansion in relation to the primary should not exceed 15-25%. But some manufacturers, saving at the expense of the main components, produce "uphill" products with a secondary increase of 50-60%. What it threatens - it's easy to guess - door frames concave inward, deformed windows and swollen window sills. Therefore, it is very desirable to purchase proven foam.
Full exit of foam from a cylinder- this indicator characterizes the filling of the balloon with an "honest" volume of the composite. If there is underfilling, then during operation the pressure drops rapidly - as a result, there is still foam inside, but it is already impossible to use it - low pressure is not able to squeeze it out from there. As a result, not only the foam that "went into action" is paid, but also the remaining one in the cylinder.
Approximate foam consumption can be estimated based on the following data - 300 ml of the composite gives about 30 liters of foam - with this volume you can "foam" a standard door frame with 3-5 cm gaps. 500 ml of composite will yield up to 35-40 liters - this is enough for one and a half boxes under the same conditions. 750ml - 45-50L output - Enough to process two or more standard door frames.
A few more requirements according to the quality of the foam - it should stick well to surfaces without dripping from them, the degree of shrinkage should be small (shrinkage is a slight decrease in volume after final solidification). Also be elastic, do not crack or crumble after it hardens, especially in frosty weather.

Application rules

Training. Polyurethane foam sealant polymerizes using air humidity, therefore it will be advisable to moisten the surfaces with water before applying it - the curing time will decrease, and the expansion of the foam will increase. If work is carried out in winter, ice and frost must be removed from the surfaces.

Immediately before use, the balloon should be vigorously shaken for about a minute, and in cold weather, warmed up to room temperature, but without using open fire. These measures will help increase the foam yield and its density.

When installing and sealing window and door frames, you need to remember to double or triple the volume of sealant, therefore, to prevent deformation of door or window blocks, they must be strengthened with spacers, without removing them until the foam has completely hardened.

Usage. When spraying, the can must be kept upside down so that the composite is near the valve, otherwise, as a result of the release of compressed air, a decrease in pressure will occur and a significant part of the foam will remain in the can.

The seam must be filled from the bottom up, evenly moving the balloon, while filling the void volume by no more than half. If the cavities are larger than 50 mm, they must be filled not in one go, but in several stages, waiting for each layer to harden.

You need to know that the foam, although it has a fairly strong bonding property, is not suitable for working with polyethylene and silicone - it will not stick to these materials.

End of work. If the foam gets on clothes, some objects or hands, it can be washed off either with a special agent, or simply with acetone.

The initial hardening of the foam surface occurs after 20 minutes - you can already touch it. But it will finally harden no earlier than after 7-8 hours - this largely depends on the ambient humidity and temperature.

After complete drying, you can cut off excess foam fragments with a knife, after which the surface must be protected from external influences, in particular from sunlight - it can be plastered, puttied or covered with paint.

Precautionary measures

Liquid foam may cause skin, respiratory or eye irritation. Therefore, when working, you need to use gloves and goggles, with poor ventilation and large volumes of work - respirators, since the concentration of vapors can be increased.

Modern interior door leaf has a lot of advantages: reliable, easy to install, has a variety of designs. But some points encountered during installation require detailed consideration. Installation of interior doors involves several stages, each of which has its own nuances. Foaming the door leaf is not so easy, such work requires care and strict adherence to the rules, then you will get a good result.

How to install a door leaf?

Door manufacturers offer a wide range of products. The door is immediately completed with a door frame. All you need is to measure the doorway and go to the store. Remember that there must be a gap between the wall and the box for the foam, which guarantees the reliability and strength of the installed structure.

Installing an interior door is easy if you follow the instructions. Working with the door leaf requires preparation, so the first thing to do is to purchase a tool kit, which includes:

roulette;
level;
hacksaw;
perforator;
a hammer;
mount;
screwdriver;

Door fittings:

door hinges;
padlock with handle.

To install the interior canvas, follow several steps:

dismantle the old door. To do this, remove the door leaf and disassemble the door frame;
assemble a new door frame. To assemble it, release the racks from the packaging and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. The assembly of the box is carried out - with rectangular corners of the racks or beveled;

install the door hinges on the frame. To secure the hinges, you will need tools such as a cutter, a screwdriver, an awl, a thin drill and a drill. Sometimes a circular saw and a pencil are used to fasten the loops;

It is important! Remember that large size hinges are installed on the box, and small size hinges are installed on the door. For greater accuracy in installing the hinge, attach the door and make the necessary notes. When applying the hinges to the door leaf, pay attention to which way the hinges are turned. According to the rules, the hinge hinges should look at the front side. It remains to fix the loops by aligning the holes.

install the box in the doorway and secure with wooden wedges. But installing the box is not enough, you also need to align it vertically and horizontally. As a result, the box must stand so that the door leaf is stationary in three positions: open, closed and half-closed;

It is important! Remember that the gap "on the foam" between the frame and the wall should be 1-2 cm. This distance will be enough to secure the door frame and not damage it.

the gap between the wall and the box is filled with foam. To learn how to do it right, pay more attention to this item.

How to properly foam the gap between the box and the wall?

After you assembled and installed the box in the opening, there were small gaps around the entire perimeter. They are sealed with foam. The work will not cause difficulties if you consider that it is very sticky and heavy, so the door frame and the door itself must be closed from getting into it.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

before using it, take care of the spacers on the door leaf, as the foam greatly increases in volume. You can even install cardboard, from the packaging of the door leaf;
shake the balloon, and moisten the opening with water, along with the section of the box. Humidification is needed to increase the adhesion of the foam and accelerate its curing. Handle the balloon carefully. Hold it upside down;
monitor the temperature in the room. If it corresponds to the range from +5 to +30 degrees, then the work is performed by the usual type of material. If the temperature range fluctuates up to -10 degrees, then high-quality work is possible with all-weather material.

It is important! To avoid distortions during work, apply the foam in several layers. In this case, the interval between the first and second layer should be 1-3 hours.

When filling the space with foam, do not fill it entirely, a third will be enough, as it greatly increases in volume. Start the vertical filling of voids from the bottom, then the lower section will become a support for the upper ones. It will take 24 hours for the foam to dry completely. After 5 hours, you can remove the spacers.

After its final drying, the excess is cut off, and the surface is sealed with putty and paint to protect it from the negative effects of moisture or the sun.

Platband installation

After the box is installed, and the joints are sealed, it's time to attach the trim. They are nailed down. If these are platbands made of fragile material, then drill holes in them before nailing. This will keep them from cracking.

Which foam to choose

The work of installing an interior door depends on the technology, as well as on the right foam. What mounting foam is better for interior doors? This question is asked by every person who is faced with the installation of a door leaf. To solve this problem, you need to know that polyurethane foam is classified according to different criteria:

by composition;
by scope;
according to the degree of combustion;
temperature of use.

Compound

All types of mounting foam available on the construction market have the same composition with minor additions, which is why they are called one-component polyurethane sealant in an aerosol package. There are also complex compositions, which are called two-component. But for domestic use, they are rarely used.

The composition of one-component foam includes:

prepolymers (polyol, isocyanate), which act as the basis of the foam;
a mixture of butane and propane, which act as a propellant gas;
elements that increase adhesion and the degree of foaming act as filler substances.

Applications

The scope of application lies in the name - assembly, so it is used for any repair work:

when installing windows and doors;
when mounting structures made of wood, metal, concrete or plastic.

Based on this, mounting foam is:

professional, which is used by experienced craftsmen. The foam is inserted into a special gun and dispensed in portions in the right places;
semi-professional, which is sprayed with a plastic tube, dressed on a pressure lever. It is recommended to use it for solving small problems.

Degree of combustibility

This indicator is indicated on the cylinders of mounting foam. Foam of the following classes is presented on the construction market:

B1 - polyurethane foam with refractory properties;
B2 - foam capable of self-extinguishing;
B3 - foam, which is subject to combustion.

Application temperature

Foam is used in various conditions, so the temperature regime affects the components of the foam in different ways. To avoid problems when installing doors or windows, select foam based on the temperature range in the room.

Depending on this, three types of polyurethane foam are distinguished:

summer, which is used at temperatures from +5 to +35 ° С;
winter, which is used at temperatures from -18 to +35 ° С;
universal or all-weather, which is used at temperatures from -10 to +35 ° C.

Properties

The popularity of polyurethane foam is explained by the operational properties, which are also its advantage. In this regard, mounting foam has:

high adhesion with any materials;
heat resistance;
non-conductivity of electricity;
high setting and hardening speed;
toxicity before and after polymerization;
incombustibility (only some types);
moisture resistance;
combination of plasticity and elasticity;
low thermal conductivity;
slight shrinkage during the year;
chemical resistance;
high strength;
good sealing effect, which cannot be achieved even with cement mortar;
short time for foaming;
lack of additional materials and tools;
lack of power sources.

If earlier cement mortar or mineral wool strips were used to fill building cavities, today the old materials have been replaced by polyurethane foam. It is much more convenient and much more practical. Foam is easy to apply, and at the same time it is able to fill the smallest gaps and cracks. It is easy to use as it is immediately ready for use. It is distinguished by good heat and sound insulation properties. And due to its astringent properties, foam is even used for gluing various insulation materials on walls or ceilings.

After the door frame is already installed in the opening and adjusted vertically and horizontally, . First you need to protect the door frame, as the foam that has fallen on the surface will then be very difficult to remove. Still “fresh” foam, you can try to eliminate it with a solvent or some kind of alcohol-containing liquid. But hardened foam can only be removed mechanically. Therefore, the box, and if necessary, the door, is pasted over with masking tape or film, and the work itself is carried out with gloves.

Due to the ability of the foam to increase in volume by 50-250%, the opposite bars of the door frame are reinforced with spacers in advance. If this is not done, then the pressure created by the foam may well lead to deformation of the door frame.

Before use, the foam bottle must be shaken (30-60 seconds), and the outer side of the door frame and the opening itself should be moistened with water. Moisturizing will improve the adhesion of the foam and also speed up its curing. Only the main thing is not to overdo it with water, otherwise you can achieve the exact opposite effect. And it is important to know that while working with the balloon, it should be constantly kept upside down. This is done so that the lighter foam-displacing gas mixes better with all the components of the cylinder.

Mounting foam adheres well to almost all types of building materials (stone, concrete, plaster, wood, metal, glass), so there are usually no problems. Difficulties will appear only when you have to deal with chemical materials (polypropylene, polyethylene, silicone, Teflon), with which the foam does not adhere. When working with it, it is desirable that the air temperature be in the range from +5 to +30 ° C. But in the cold season, you can use special foams designed for use in the winter (up to -10 ° C). Also, when working with foam, it should be taken into account that when the air humidity is less than 35%, it will not be able to harden.

In order to be safe from possible distortions of the box (when the foam hardens), the mounting foam can be applied in two stages. First, it is applied “point by point”, and then (after 1-3 hours) all remaining cavities are filled. If the distance between the door frame and the opening is very narrow, the end of the spray tube is pre-flattened in order to more conveniently fill this space. And if the distance, on the contrary, is too large (from 8-9 cm), it is advisable to lay this space with a suitable material, and only then fill it with foam.

Given the property of the foam to expand, voids and cracks are filled only by one third of their depth. In this case, it is better to start filling vertical cavities from the bottom up. So she will create a support for herself. Full curing time of the foam varies considerably and takes approximately 3 to 24 hours. More accurate information about the drying period can be found in the instructions for a specific type of mounting foam. After the final hardening of the foam, its excess is removed and proceed to the next stage of installing the door (attaching the trim, if necessary - "additions" and seals).

Although polyurethane foam is resistant to mechanical stress and has many advantages, it also has its own small disadvantages. So, it is destroyed by direct sunlight and absorbs moisture quite well. Therefore, it is important to provide mounting foam with reliable waterproofing protection, and if necessary, additionally “hide” from the influence of sunlight. For these purposes, you can use paint, putty or sealant.

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