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Installation of a window in a log house: technology for self-fulfillment, plus a photo report on the work done

Greetings. In past articles, I described in detail the technology for installing plastic and wooden windows in the opening of walls built of brick, concrete, foam concrete blocks and similar materials. But the installation of glazing in wooden buildings is carried out according to completely different rules, so installing windows in a log house with your own hands deserves a separate review.

Features of the installation of glazing in houses made of wooden beams

Installing windows in a wooden house is complicated by the fact that wood, unlike concrete, masonry and brickwork, is an unstable material that changes its geometry throughout its entire service life.

Someone will say that this is why a wooden house is built for shrinkage, after which the lumber demonstrates an unchanged configuration. But, in fact, walls built from rectangular or rounded timber sag slightly all the time.

These processes are less intensive in buildings erected using glued beams. But even this couple of millimeters, by which the wall will sag annually, is enough for the double-glazed window to deform and crack.

How to compensate shrinkage processes in wooden buildings and prevent breakage of plastic windows?

In fact, the solution to the problem was invented several centuries ago, when glazing began to be installed in the openings of the huts. The solution is simple - the window is not installed directly in the opening, but in a box, which is fixed in the opening by a floating method, that is, without direct fastening to the wall. As a result, the deformation of the walls is not transferred to the box and the window is not subjected to mechanical stress.

How windows are installed in timber houses

So, you decided to insert a window into a wooden wall yourself. Let's find out how to do it right.

In the following table, you can familiarize yourself with the work that needs to be done in order for the window to securely take its place in the wall of a log house.

Let's take a closer look at how the work listed in the table is performed.

Manufacture of casing (pigtails)

Among the current varieties of pigtails, I note the following options:

• Casing in a mortgage bar (U-shaped) implies that a groove is made along the perimeter of the opening, into which the casing element is inserted directly;

• Casing in a deck (T-shaped) suggests that a spike is made along the side ends of the opening, directly on which the elements of the casing are put on.

At present, the U-shaped type of pigtail is most widely used, namely, such modifications as in a mortgage bar, in a tenon-monolith and fine casing.

The choice of materials for the manufacture of the casing is selected depending on the construction project:

• If the walls are built from a square or rounded beam without the need for subsequent finishing, a finishing material should be used to make a pigtail, for example, the same glued beam;
• If the wall is assembled from lumber for subsequent cladding with certain finishing materials, draft materials can be used to make a pigtail, the appearance of which will not be important.

To make the opening and install the casing, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Chain Saw;

It is preferable to use an electric saw, as you will have to work indoors. But if there is no power tool, a chainsaw will do, but you will have to provide good ventilation inside the log house.

• Miter saw;
• Water or laser level;
• Plumb;
• Stapler with staples for mounting jute tape;
• Bar 150 × 100 mm for the manufacture of sidewalls;
• Board 100 × 50 mm for the manufacture of the upper jumper;
• Bar 50×50 mm
• Antiseptic solution for lumber processing;
• Jute tape to the width of the wall;
• Mineral wool for filling technological gaps;
• Window acrylic sealant.

Instructions for the manufacture of casing (pigtails) are as follows:

• In accordance with the ordered windows, we perform markup;

When marking, we make the width of the opening 150 mm larger than the width of the window. The height of the opening is marked with a margin of 50 mm for shrinkage plus the width of the board that will be used for the top lintel. To perform marking, it is best to use a laser level, however, if there is no such tool, you can use a plumb line in combination with a spirit level.

• According to the markup, an opening is cut out;

I do not recommend throwing out the timber selected from the opening. It is better to carefully assemble it and leave it for later to make any crafts, in extreme cases, if it is not useful, you can chop the bars into dry wood chips and use them for kindling.

• We measure the height of the opening and, in accordance with the measurement, saw off two pieces of timber;
• We apply the sawn pieces of timber to the opening and level them;
• We mark the location of the leveled beam on one and the other side of the opening;
• According to the markup, we make a groove in the sidewalls of the opening for the width of the beam;

In order for the pigtail to last as long as possible, the groove must be treated with an antiseptic solution. If the price of special antiseptics seems high, the cut wood can be impregnated with mining, which has good penetrating power.

• We drive a beam into the groove made from one and the other side of the opening, so that a shrinkage gap of 50 mm remains in the upper part;

• We clean the bottom of the window opening;
• We saw off two boards along the height of the opening;

• From the end of each board, as shown in the photo above, we select a half-tree groove for installing the upper jumper;
• We fasten a jute tape on the sides of the opening with a stapler;
• We install pre-prepared boards on top of the jute tape, so that the notches made look inside the opening;

• We position the boards according to the level and fasten them with self-tapping screws, so that they enter the timber, previously hammered into the groove;

In order for the self-tapping screws to certainly not enter the wood in the groove, it is enough to correctly calculate their length. We have a groove depth of 50 mm and a board thickness of 50 mm, which is equal to 100 mm in total. As a result, to be sure that the pigtail will be held firmly and the beam will be floating, self-tapping screws with a length of 80 mm are enough.

• After the sidewalls are installed, we additionally measure the length of the upper jumper so that it goes into the recesses made in the upper part of the sidewalls.

• We cut the board according to the measurements taken and insert it into the upper part of the casing;

• We fix the installed board with self-tapping screws so that they enter the casing, but not into the opening;
• The gap between the upper lintel and the upper part of the opening is filled with mineral wool or a similar sealant.

On this, the manufacture of the casing can be considered completed and you can proceed with the installation of the window.

Installation of a plastic window in a pre-prepared casing

At this stage of installation work, we need the following tools and materials:

• Electric drill and screwdriver with a set of drills and bits;
• Level and roulette;
• 5 mm hexagon and a slotted screwdriver for window disassembly;
• Metal shears for trimming the ebb;
• Plastic or wooden wedges for leveling the frame;
• Mounting foam.

Installation instructions are as follows:

• We measure the window that just arrived along the perimeter and correlate the resulting size with the dimensions of the inner perimeter of the pigtail;

According to the results of measurements in a wooden house, the gap between the frame and the pigtail should be at least 10 mm and not more than 20 mm on each side.

• Remove glass from frame

In order to remove the sash, we pull the pin out of the hinges. In order to dismantle double-glazed windows, you need to knock out the glazing bead around the perimeter of the glass. Look closely at the staple. For ease of dismantling, the manufacturer leaves a small gap between the frame and the glazing bead, into which the tip of the knife can be inserted.

• We carefully take the removed sashes and double-glazed windows to where they will not interfere and put them close to the wall so that nothing falls;
• We remove the protective tape, since there will be nothing to particularly stain the profile;

• We close the drain holes located at the bottom of the frame with plugs;
• We measure 200 mm from the upper corner of the frame and drill the first through hole with a 6 mm drill;

• We measure the same 200 mm from the bottom corner of the frame and drill a similar hole;
• Between two drilled holes we mark the location of the intermediate hole, so that the holes are spaced apart from each other by no more than 600 mm;
• We mark and drill holes around the entire perimeter of the frame;

• After the holes are drilled, we glue the PSUL sealing tape along the end of the frame;

• Putting plastic inserts under each impost, we set the frame into the opening according to the level;

On sale are liners of various thicknesses, from 2 to 10 mm. But, if it is difficult to find special liners, you can use wood chips, which you can chop from the timber left after cutting the opening.

• Along the perimeter of the frame exposed in the opening, we pass with a drill through all the through holes and drill holes in the wood;

• We fasten the profile to the casing with metal pins 92 mm long (this length is enough to pass through the profile and enter the casing, but not enter the perimeter of the opening);

• On the outside of the frame, we apply a low tide and make markings on it, along which it will be possible to cut it;

• We cut the ebb with scissors for metal, trying to ensure that the bend of the cut edge is directed downwards;
• At the bottom of the window there is a special groove into which the ebb is inserted;

• We fasten the ebb inserted into the groove with self-tapping screws to the profile;

• Raise the edge of the fixed ebb and apply mounting foam to the gap;
• Shutters are hung on the window and early dismantled double-glazed windows are installed;

• At the finishing stage, we blow mounting foam into the technological gap between the casing and the frame;
• After the foam dries, we cut off the influxes with a sharp one;
• In the subsequent stages, you can install trim or perform another type of fine finish at your discretion.

Conclusion

Now you have a general idea of ​​​​how to insert a modern double-glazed window into timber walls.

Of course, during the installation work, certain questions may arise. Indicate points that require clarification in the comments to this article, I will try to immediately give an exhaustive answer. If you have personal experience installing windows using a different method, tell us about it, I think everyone will be interested.

By the way, do not forget to watch the video in this article, maybe it will be useful for you.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

As a window maker with experience and experience in building wooden houses, I want to say that if you really have glued beams for the entire assembly technology, then no casing is needed, shrinkage of 1-3% does not dance anywhere. The casing will turn out to be money down the drain and a lot of interfaces of parts that will let moist air pass through them. For the same reason, I think that putting PVC windows in such a house is blasphemy. Qualitatively, as a rule, everyone neglects the ventilation system, and as a result, there is an exhaust hood, and the inflow, as in the textbook, is natural. I explain that with intensive operation of exhaust systems (in the toilet / bathroom, kitchen), the influx of outside air into the room will occur through the installation openings (windows, doors). And we have in the minus that, along the path of least resistance, the air will go through the gap between the window frame and the timber (this is for PVC windows). Respectively. in order to somehow protect this zone, we need to "dry" the air, for this they install waterproofing and membranes, and the sealing of the seam must be made of a material that absorbs moisture the least of the desired ones (moisture absorption in the certificate).

I don’t want to describe about PVC, this is a separate topic, but those who lived in wooden houses should understand me, for me it’s the same as sewing up the beautiful play of wood and its unique smell with plasterboard and wallpaper for painting.
Good luck.

Here is a plan for installing windows in a house made of glued laminated timber. It is advisable to order a casing board and a bar as a set of the wooden part of the house.
Manufacturing on site will be more difficult.

As a window maker with experience and experience in building wooden houses, I want to say that if you really have glued beams for the entire assembly technology, then no casing is needed, shrinkage of 1-3% does not dance anywhere. The casing will turn out to be money down the drain and a lot of interfaces of parts that will let moist air pass through them. For the same reason, I think that putting PVC windows in such a house is blasphemy. Qualitatively, as a rule, everyone neglects the ventilation system, and as a result, there is an exhaust hood, and the inflow, as in the textbook, is natural. I explain that with intensive operation of exhaust systems (in the toilet / bathroom, kitchen), the influx of outside air into the room will occur through the installation openings (windows, doors). And we have in the minus that, along the path of least resistance, the air will go through the gap between the window frame and the timber (this is for PVC windows). Respectively. in order to somehow protect this zone, we need to "dry" the air, for this they install waterproofing and membranes, and the sealing of the seam must be made of a material that absorbs moisture least of all the desired ones (moisture absorption in the certificate).
Any of you have seen the violation of these things in apartments with poor-quality installation, mold on slopes, water on the windowsill, etc.
I don’t want to describe about PVC, this is a separate topic, but those who lived in houses made of wood should understand me, for me it’s the same as sewing up the beautiful play of wood and its unique smell with plasterboard and wallpaper for painting.
Good luck.

Insulate the top mounting seam only from crushable materials, and the side and bottom, as described above.
Good luck.

Glad to be of service to you again, my friends!

After examining my windows in a wooden house, I came to the conclusion that it was time to replace them. I have not yet come across such a process, so I made up for the lack of practical experience with the help of other people's knowledge: I “overlooked” a bunch of forums and sites, through friends I found people who had already done similar work. After he made a number of conclusions and determined the algorithm of his actions when reinstalling windows. Next, I will state everything sequentially.

First of all, I measured the windows and ordered new ones, reporting the exact dimensions. While the order was being fulfilled, I started dismantling the old frames, and then cleaning the openings from accumulated debris. Upon receipt of the windows, he installed window sills and prepared double-glazed windows for installation. He put the structures in permanent places and fixed them. Of course, in reality, the process was not so fleeting and easy, but there is nothing overwhelming in it - I did it and you will succeed.

The technology of installing a plastic window in the opening of a wooden house

When installing a plastic double-glazed window in the pigtail of a wooden house, you cannot do without a level and a plumb line - if you want the window sashes to move smoothly, not open under their own weight, or jammed. Then never fix the window without making sure - not by eye, but by level, that it is level.

So that the work in connection with inserting the window into the opening and leveling does not go down the drain, it is necessary to fix the leveled structure with mounting fasteners.

The best option is 6 pieces for each window. They can be ordered in the same place where you give an application for the manufacture of double-glazed windows.

Under these fasteners on each side of the window there are technical slides, so there will be no difficulties with the correct placement of the plates. Each plate has holes for self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without plates? Yes, if you want to drill through the frame when attaching it, which will cause depressurization of the chambers in the profile. Personally, I am against such barbarity - I need windows not only for beauty, but also for reliable protection from cold and moisture. And to the installers, if you do not install them yourself, also tell them to install the windows according to the rules. Only in this case, the expectations from plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house will be fully justified.

I strongly advise you to remove the window sashes from the frame before installing it in the opening. This will not take much time, but it will save a lot of effort: without them, it will become much easier and it will be easier to direct it to the right place.

The algorithm for installing a double-glazed window in the opening of a wooden house:

• inserting the structure into the pigtail, insert wood chips 2 centimeters thick under the lower frame;
• using the water level, determine the quality of the installation;
• achieve the desired indicator by laying additional chips;
• align the frame vertically with the same pieces of wood;
• having determined the most optimal position, fix the frame on the pigtail with self-tapping screws, inserting them into the holes on the mounting plates.

When screwing in each self-tapping screw, do not hit the crest of the log against which the pigtail rests. To avoid loosening the self-tapping screw, screw it in slightly at an angle.

After fixing the frame, foam it along the contour only after hanging the sashes - they will prevent it from deflecting under the pressure of the hardening mounting foam. If the sashes are not installed before this, then later there will be problems with the movement of the vents, even in a perfectly installed frame.

At the end of the frame alignment horizontally and vertically, a gap of 2 cm thick should remain on each side of the entire structure - for foam filling. The height of the distance between the top panel of the pigtail and the first log is not less than 5 and not more than 15 cm - the gap will prevent wood pressure on the windows after shrinkage of the log house.

Before pouring the foam, a control check of the correct installation of the entire structure is necessary. They are guided by the “behavior” of the open sash: it should not independently go further than it was opened, or try to return back, obeying its own weight, and not you.

Here is such a short educational program turned out on the topic of installing a plastic double-glazed window in a wooden house. I hope that my advice will help you in your noble and exciting work.

Self installation

I wanted to put plastic windows in my country wooden house. Everything that will be described below is a verbal presentation of my experience in self-installation of double-glazed windows in a house made of timber.

Why did I decide to do my own window installation?

There are several reasons:

• for installation, you will have to pay up to 50% of the cost of the window itself (you can buy a third one for the saved money for 2 installed on your own);
• almost all companies that provide window installation services in wooden houses do not give any guarantees for their work;
• no need to pay for a service that any owner is able to provide to himself for 2 hours of work.

In order for the installation result to please for many years, you need to follow the step-by-step algorithm of actions recommended below.

Removing old windows

Regardless of who will install brand new double-glazed windows in a wooden building - you or invited workers - installation of new structures is permissible only on a rigid foundation. I was lucky: in our house, window frames were changed a couple of years ago, so the wood turned out to be flawless. That is, I did not find any wormholes, rot, cracks, dents and chips on it. Therefore, when ordering double-glazed windows, I indicated the dimensions of the new windows, taking into account that the boxes will remain. If, in your case, the condition of the frames turns out to be not very good, but thrift will not allow you to throw them away, then the dismantled can be put into a mini-greenhouse as a basis.

Not sure how good and bad the boxes under your windows are? All the same, do not allow yourself or your employees to break them out “with meat”. You can always use firewood. The same applies to glasses: there is no certainty that they will not crack during dismantling, so take them out first - there will also be a use for them. I was lucky again: the frames were still strong, so the structures were taken out without removing the glass.

How to prepare a place

Go around the entire perimeter of the frame with a dry brush or a clean rag to sweep away everything left after dismantling.

Window sill installation

The first to a permanent place is a plastic window sill, which is "imputed" to serve as the basis for the rest of the structure. Hence the “legs grow” of the requirement to install it perfectly evenly and horizontally. To determine how correctly it is installed in a vertical and horizontal position, the usual building level will help. To adjust its location, taking into account the level readings, use chopped strips of plastic or slivers (the latter only if they have been treated with an antiseptic). For the stability of the window sill, make a notch on each side of the box, going deep into the wood by 8 millimeters.

Fix the window sill with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bottom of the window frame. Fasteners are placed with a two-centimeter indent from the outer end of the window sill and with a mandatory substrate for each washer. It will not allow the self-tapping screw to break through the canvas, if you overdo it when tightening the fasteners. Do not worry that the fasteners will spoil the overall impression - they simply will not be visible.

How to prepare a double glazing

I recommend that you install the handle before starting installation work. But the film can be removed later - so there is less chance of leaving unattractive stripes on the plastic surface. You need to tear off the adhesive strip only at the place where the handle is installed. When placing the lever on the sash, hold it with the long part parallel to the window sill.

After installing the window, this position of the handle will correspond to the mode of opening the entire sash towards itself. When moving the handle end down, the sash will be locked, up - only the narrow upper part of the window can completely move away from the frame panel.

Having fixed the handle on the panel with a pair of bolts, you need to turn it end down. On the side racks, mark out the holes for the fasteners with which the window will be held within the frame.

Window installation

We put the assembled structure in the opening, making sure that from both vertical edges the intermediate distance from the frame to the sides of the double-glazed window is the same (about a centimeter). At the same time, remember that the horizontal direction is set by the window sill previously fixed in the correct position. If it is inconvenient to use the level due to the presence of decor on the outside of the wall, then use a plumb line.

While the person helping you will hold the frame, you must wedge a centimeter-wide spacer bar between the box and the window frame. Their presence is necessary for the stability of the fixed structure at the moment of connection of the double-glazed window with the frame with self-tapping screws. If you are too lazy or forget about the bars, you can provoke the window to go to the side in the process of fixing. As a result, then the sash will be difficult to open and close.

After wedging in the bars and placing the double-glazed window strictly according to the level indicators, fix the inserted structure in the box with self-tapping screws, not forgetting to screw them on each of the four sides.

When introducing a self-tapping screw, you need to ensure that its location takes place in the free space between the window and the box itself.

Then, during periods when the house “walks” under the influence of climatic influences and seasonal shifts, the windows in it will not warp.

Installing a window in a wooden house using a self-expanding tape in the video:

How to install double-glazed windows in a wooden building?

First, take care of maintaining the patency of the drain holes - install adjusting plates between them that will prevent condensation from accumulating from the window. Then insert the double-glazed window into the opening of the box so that there is free space around the entire perimeter between the two structures. It is necessary to maintain the integrity of the glass in the frame when the box will lead in the spring or winter after the house.

In the case of a tight fit of the double-glazed window to the box (minimum gap of 5 mm), file a claim with the manufacturer of the structure. A decent contractor in response should offer an appropriate solution to the problem.

After inserting the double-glazed window into the box and aligning the first on four sides with respect to the last, fix its location with plastic glazing beads with profile spikes. These "spiky" strips are very easy to install: it is enough to advance them with small taps into the openings. When the spines of the glazing bead reach the grooves, you will hear a characteristic click.

Having achieved a fixed and correct placement of the double-glazed window in the box, fill the voids between these two structures with mounting foam, processing the cracks from the inside and outside.

Remove any hardened excess with a pruning knife.

After making sure that the work has been carried out correctly: the grooves are closed, the wings move only under the pressure of your hands, you can proceed with the installation of additional fittings, platbands and drainage systems.

Rules for secure installation

All the difficulties with installing windows in wooden houses have one root: the instability of wooden structures throughout the entire operational period. Without taking into account this factor in the process of installing plastic structures, even window or door, it is quite possible to find yourself in a situation where the new “carpentry” fails without even a year of work.

How are wooden houses different from others? Wood loses a lot of moisture in the first years after the construction of the log house. A year, as some say, is not enough for the final drying process. In the best case, the walls of the house will take the final size in the sixth year after their construction. But in some regions, the process of "walking" houses never ends.

On average, the height of the wall can decrease by 4-5 cm. And what will happen to the double-glazed window, which was installed in the box in such a way that there were only 2-2.5 cm between the sides of these structures? Do the owners of wooden houses need to forget about the dreams of plastic windows? Of course not. You just need to follow a number of technical recommendations.

First: do not neglect the casing. It is also called a pigtail. Thanks to it, any windows gain independence from the impact, within reasonable limits, of the bearing walls of the building. Whether they shrink or acquire some curvature, this will not affect the integrity and functionality of the window.

General casing specifications:

• protect the logs from moving away from the vertical in the area of ​​the window opening;
• does not resist vertical shrinkage of the wall;
• takes over all the loads;
• contributes to the strength of the wall in the zone of the window opening.

What is a siege? The most common option is to make square vertical grooves with a side of 5 cm at the ends of the logs and then seal them with bars of the same size. But such processing of the walls around the opening is only suitable for preparing a place for wooden windows. To prepare an opening for plastic double-glazed windows at the ends of the logs, you need to make a comb, and then install a window carriage with a groove on it. The presence of a ridge and a groove will ensure that the logs slide without harming the window frame.

What is a window carriage? These are vertical bars with parameters 15x10 cm, with notches at the edges. The depth of the cuts is 5x5 cm, they are made for inserting jumpers crowned with spikes at the ends in the form of boards 15x5 cm.

The assembled casing is 7-8 centimeters below the window opening. Such a gap is left due to the possible shrinkage of the wall. When the pigtail is assembled in the opening, it is then covered with rolled tow, and gun carriages are stuffed on top. After such a procedure, neither squeaks from shrinkage, nor drafts from under the window are terrible.

Then you need to make a lower jumper and also fill the gun carriages on the comb with tow. Insert the upper jumper into the hole from above, and then lower it into the groove. Then reinforce the structure with self-tapping screws, making sure that they do not touch the ridge - this is important for maintaining the relative freedom of the resulting structure. Then all the gaps found between the pigtail and the walls must be filled with tow.

Metal-plastic double-glazed windows can also be inserted into such a design, without fear that they will jam when the house shrinks. When installing, do not forget that noise, heat, and vapor barrier also need to be taken care of.

The gap between the log house and the casing made must be filled with thin planks with wound tow fibers.

When the house begins to shrink noticeably, knock out the planks to replace them with new ones. To facilitate this process, I strongly recommend attaching the upper casing only to the casing. It will take - carefully remove it, change the filling, fix it in place.

When I taught seminars, I often encountered bewilderment about the need for a window fitter to understand the technology of building wooden buildings. And what is strange about this? Without this, the installer will not be able to install the window in such a way that it will serve for years without any complaints. In other cases, you can not do without casing.

If you are hired to install plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house, find out if there is a casing. If it is not there, and instead of a pigtail there will be a box of an old window, tell the owner that he has two ways. Either he agrees to modernize the window opening for casing and windows smaller than planned, or the person will receive windows in old frames without casing, but without your guarantee for a quality result. Since even old wooden houses are always “walking” and resisting this, or rather, this factor should always be taken into account when installing windows. And do not forget to indicate in the contract that you disclaim any responsibility for the future life of the windows.

We put plastic double-glazed windows in a private house

Remember: all wooden structures shrink. And this fact must always be taken into account when installing plastic double-glazed windows in a log house.

The strongest shrinkage processes of wood occur in the first two years after the completion of the construction of the log house. Each meter of masonry shrinks by 1.5 cm. And this is a very large value to ignore when equipping a wooden house with plastic windows.

Why do they do a squabble?

The durability of the operation of the plastic window and the level of comfort during use depend on how professionally the casing is carried out. It provides the window with a safe position during the period when the house is once again slightly deformed due to fluctuations under the influence of changes in humidity or temperature.

What is a siege? This is a box made of thick boards. It is inserted into the window opening, fixed according to a certain technology, and only then they are engaged in the installation of PVC double-glazed windows. The box itself is held inside the opening with the help of side grooves.

In the process, one cannot rely on the technical qualities of mounting foam, other fixing methods.

Between the structure and the upper lintel of the window opening, a gap must be left, the value of which should be greater than the expected shrinkage of the wooden wall.

How to make a pigtail:

• inserting wooden beams into specially made grooves (then self-tapping screws will be screwed into the beams);
• sawing spikes on the edges of logs in the window opening and forming grooves in the sides of the box (experts call this technique “into a deck”);
• spikes are made in the sides of the structure, the ends of the logs of the window opening are equipped with grooves.

The nuances of preparing a window opening

Do not be intimidated by the work of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden building. If you follow the right algorithm, you can insert a modern window into a log house of any age with your own hands.

First of all, determine the distance to the window from the floor. The most convenient option is if the window sill is slightly higher than the horizontal plane of your desk. If there is none nearby, then be guided by a distance of 80-90 cm.

The lower, upper boundary of the window opening is determined using the water level. The top line should run 13 +1.5 cm above the upper border of the double-glazed window, the difference on the sides should be 12-14 +1.5 cm. Leave one and a half centimeters of allowance for sealing cracks with construction foam.

Having decided on the size of the opening, take measurements for the future window. Observe the utmost accuracy both when installing the casing and when taking parameters for the design of the double-glazed window itself. Qualitative measurement is one of the most important nuances that affects the quality of all subsequent work on the installation of a double-glazed window into a window opening.

After bringing the opening to the desired condition, start studding the ends of the logs facing the window. The draft window is trimmed with jute from the sides and bottom. Do the casing only from well-dried wood, sawn into bars. Make connections with self-tapping screws, and cover the convergence points with sealant at the joints. Fill the gaps in the pigtail with tow.

See the video for casing and pigtail when installing PVC windows in a wooden house:

Installation nuances

The finished metal-plastic structure is placed after being ideally pulled out in the foreground or deepened into the wall. The main product is fixed with self-tapping screws, screwing them into specially prepared grooves.

It is permissible to install a metal-plastic window of any configuration in an ordinary wooden, but not made of timber, house, if you know how to properly frame, take measurements and select the appropriate fittings.

When picking up tools and other material, do not take self-tapping screws longer than 12 cm. Such “stings” will definitely go behind the pigtail and dig into the main building, which is unacceptable given the mobility of a wooden house.

For waterproofing the external joint, you can use an acrylic sealant without additional components in the composition, a sealing tape that self-expands after being placed in place, or a conventional vapor-permeable one. Such protection will extend the life of the mounting foam and prevent the formation of drafts.

A vapor barrier tape is placed along the inner seam, fixing it with a special glue. And only then they process the seam with mounting foam.

The correct pigtail in a log house allows you to get beautiful and warm window openings in a short time. Precisely beautiful, not requiring further finishing of the slopes. Such a pigtail (casing) is a high-tech product, the production of which takes weeks from the zero cycle.

Appearance

• Polished product impregnated with antiseptic. It is pleasing to the eye and pleasant to the touch.
• From the outside, a quarter is selected in the box for installing a window or door frame
• All parts of the installed casing are fitted to each other with minimal gaps.
• The width of the casing is equal to the thickness of the wall. This allows you to install platbands immediately after the installation of windows.

Scheme of casing a window opening in a log house.

Specifications

• The casing box moves freely in the grooves selected in the walls and does not prevent the house from shrinking
• The moisture content of wood is within 12-14%. Such moisture remains in the blanks after forced drying.

The finishing pigtail is made from kiln-dried pine or spruce.

• The groove in the casing for the installation of plastic windows or doors is selected at the factory and corresponds to the width of the frames of future windows
• The places of contact with the wall are insulated with eco-friendly insulation.
• The parts of the pigtail are interconnected without nails, in a self-locking lock. It will be good if the locks are additionally smeared with sealant.
• A wind lock is arranged under the bottom board, also insulated with, for example, jute fiber.
• In 2018, a glued pigtail is considered more reliable, that is, made from separate bars glued together under pressure.

Proper casing does not require finishing slopes. That is why it is also called pure.

The groove for installing a plastic window is clearly visible.

The window sill is part of the casing.

The window looks nice. Platbands will give the opening a complete look.

The seam between the casing and the wall is insulated. The lock securely fixes the casing details.

A finishing pigtail allows you to complete the stage of work with the closing of the warm perimeter of a log house in a short time. At a cost, it can be more expensive than the windows themselves.

Draft casing

The only reason for the conscious choice of rough casing in a log house, in my opinion, may be the desire to install a plastic window sill and plastic slopes to match it. You can save only on the type of wood. Because in all other cases, imaginary savings end up costing more.

A quality draft pigtail should also be made from a dry board. Unlike the finishing one, a quarter is NOT selected in it. Windows are mounted on mounting plates, as in a stone house or an ordinary apartment. Then these plates are closed with extensions, and the end face with platbands.

The option of finishing the slopes with plastic extensions along with a plastic window sill looks good.

Rough casing made of dry pine.

Mortgage bar

Unfortunately, out of ignorance, people often agree to low-quality rough casing. It is a board with a bar nailed along it, which is laid in a groove selected in the opening. Therefore, it is called "in the mortgage bar."

Poor casing

In addition to the cost of finishing slopes, you can get hidden problems:

• will lead the board when it dries, and it will pull the window with it
• the screwed bar can be bent and a gap is formed on the street
• self-tapping screws of the mounting plates can go through the casing and fix it to the wall of the house, thereby violating the very idea of ​​​​the casing

Lumber for embedded casing is bought on the market. Board sizes are limited in width. So they can bulge out of the wall or be narrower than it. In this case, you will also get to the extras to the platbands.

Casing in a mortgage bar 1 year after operation. The bar moved away, there was little or no insulation at all. A gap was formed from the house to the street, it was impossible to sit near the window - it was cold!

Suitable formats and sizes

The pit of openings is necessary in houses made of ordinary, planed and profiled timber. It is highly recommended in houses made of dry and glued laminated timber. The main reason for its installation is the phenomenon of shrinkage, that is, a decrease in the volume of wood during drying. During shrinkage, the height of the sawn openings decreases, the timber in the walls can rotate and crack.

Ask a question about casing and windows in the comments and get a qualified answer. Questions are answered by real people who have been working on the glazing of wooden houses for many years!

If you install windows without casing in a house built from freshly sawn or dried timber, then soon through cracks will appear between the bars on both sides of the window to the street - the timber will hang on the self-tapping screws that secure the window. A beam will also hang, which rests on the frame from above. That is, the entire upper part of the house will rest on the window frame. She won't last long. At first, the windows will not open well, then they will stop altogether. The frame will most likely warp and the glass unit will crack.

To prevent this from happening, casing boxes are installed in the openings. For log houses, a T and P type pigtail is suitable. It is easy to distinguish them, look at the end of the pigtail - it will look like the corresponding letter.

P-casing with a quarter.

T-casing made of solid wood with a glued spike.

Important! The dimensions in the tables are correct for standard window openings. If the length or width of the opening exceeds 2 meters, then set the casing with a thickness of 90 mm or more.

Differences in casing for windows and doors

The lower part of the casing of the window opening can serve as a finishing window sill. Its appearance can be modeled to taste. For example, push the window sill into the room and expand the protruding part to the sides. It's called "with ears".

In another case, if the window is with a plastic window sill, the lower part of the window casing is made thinner than the rest of the parts. So it retains its function and does not interfere.

Bottom with ears = excellent wooden window sill

Window variant with plastic window sill. It also looks harmonious.

Door frame can be supplied without lower part. In this case, the bottom of the sidewalls is screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws - capercaillie. This method is optimal if a non-threshold floor is planned. Door casing without a threshold is often used. The technology has been worked out and the guarantee is preserved in full.

Casing without a threshold on internal doorways.

This is where the differences between window and door frames end. The sides and top are the same.

How to make a casing with your own hands

It is difficult to make finishing casings for plastic windows on your own, but it is possible. To do this, you will need a planed dry timber or carriage with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the walls in your house. As well as jute tape, PVA glue, self-tapping screws, wood sealant, antiseptic impregnation, a brush. A construction stapler to secure the jute to the wall.

From simple tools, you will need a hammer, a chisel, a building level, a hacksaw, a pencil or marker, a ruler, a corner. Of the power tools - a chain or circular saw, an electric planer, a hand mill. The help of one or two friends will not be superfluous at all.

Before starting work, decide what kind of casing you will do - P or T type. This depends on the size of the opening.

How to cut a casing profile

In a log house, we will make a T-pigtail, as it is easier to make with our own hands. Here you can do without a milling cutter, one manual circular saw, which can be rented.

Cut T - casing from a solid bar is too uneconomical. There will be a lot of waste. Therefore, we will use the option with gluing a spike into the sidewalls. In the market, such a casing is also called a thorn-monolith.

The final result of the work.

In a house made of profiled timber 150 x 150 mm, we need a planed board 150 x 50 mm, a bar 50x50 mm to make a pigtail. We mark the drawing as follows: on each part there is a quarter cut with a width of 73 mm (! frame width + 3 mm) and a depth of 25 mm, on the sidewalls in addition - a groove 53x10 mm for a spike.

Important: when marking the groove in the pigtail for installing the window frame, find out the thickness of the profile of this frame. Most often in central Russia, a 70 mm profile is used.

On the top we take a bar 150 x 50 mm.



Windowsill. With a wind lock made of timber 150x90 mm and without a wind lock made of timber 150x50 mm.

Longitudinal cuts are made with a circular saw. If the depth of the cut is not enough, carefully cut down the remaining wood with a chisel. We also select the groove for the wind lock with a chisel or milling cutter.

And this is how the drawing of the sidewalls of a classic casing looks like. Her top and window sill are marked in the same way with the T-view.

Drawing of the side parts of the U-casing.

Size tolerance table

Quarter Selection for frame installation	The width will be equal to the width of the frame + 3 mm. The depth when casing a window opening depends on the height of the blind profile to the bead and to the hinges. If the loop is close to the casing, then the window will not fully open. Usually the frame goes into the quarter by 10-15 mm, another 10 mm is left on the mounting brackets.
Groove for stud insertion Lateral parts of the T-casing	- 2-3 mm wider than the bar - depth 5-15 mm, depends on the thickness of the casing.
Groove for a wind lock in the bottom board	- 2-3 mm wider than the wind bar - depth 5-15 mm. On a thin window sill, the wind lock is not cut out.
Groove at the end of the wall of the house	Depth 10 mm deeper than the spike. The width is 5 mm wider than the spike.
Spike at the end of the wall of the house	The width is 5 mm less than the groove in the pigtail. The height is 5 mm less than the groove depth.

Installation of classic P - casing

The technology for installing a pigtail in a house made of timber is as follows:

• Marking and cutting openings
• We mark a groove on the ends of the sawn openings. We select it. Or we form a spike if we chose P casing.
• We impregnate the openings and the part of the casing adjacent to them with an antiseptic, for example, Veres Base
• We warm the opening with jute tape
• We install the bottom part, then the sides and finish with the installation of the top
• Checking the geometry
• The free space above the tops is densely filled with jute

It seems simple, but as usual, the devil is in the details. I will try to show the process of installing the casing in a house from a bar 150x150 mm. If it is not clear, ask in the comments.

When marking openings, remember the golden rule "measure seven times - cut once."

Slowly and carefully form a spike on the side walls of the opening.

Use the building level. The window sill must be strictly horizontal, the sides - vertical.

When marking openings, proceed from the planned window sizes. Add to these dimensions the thickness of the casing (considering the chosen quarter) and the gaps for the jute. A sufficient groove width with a wall thickness of 150 mm will be 55 mm. How to correctly calculate the dimensions of the opening, wrote below on the page.

The groove is always 5 mm larger than the tenon. It will not hang out, you still need to insulate the opening with 1-2 layers of jute tape.

First, we insulate the lower part and install the window sill, then we insulate the remaining perimeter and mount the sidewalls. We close the casing by installing the top.

We coat the locks with wood sealant. No self tapping screws!

At the final stage, we knock protruding jute into the seams. The space above the top is also tightly plugged with it.

Let's check the geometry again. Profit!

The result of the work.

Installation video - very detailed

In the video, the house is not entirely made of timber. It is a fire monitor, but also with smooth walls. Well filmed all stages of the installation of the casing. A bonus is the visual installation of plastic windows and doors.

Video Timing:

• marking openings in the wall 0:20 - 1:07
• sawing 1:10 - 2:20
• marking the spike at the end of the opening - 3:30 - 4:05
• sawing a spike - 4:10 - 6:11
• impregnation of the opening with an antiseptic - 6:13 - 6:55
• casing impregnation with antiseptic – 6:56 – 7:06
• installation of casing with insulation of the opening with jute — from 7:08
• how the last part of the casing is mounted - the top - 7:54 - 8:05 and 8:20 - 8:30
• installation of doors and windows – from 8:35
• caulking seams with jute — from 11:06

Installation of T-casing in a log house

The technology differs only in that a groove is selected at the end of the openings. And the spike is formed from the side of the casing bar adjacent to the wall.

It is not difficult to make a groove in a bar or, in a simple way, a groove. In the drawing, I showed a view of the groove from above. After marking, you make two vertical cuts, then two more 45-degree cuts. Remove the cut out triangles and clean the middle with the tip of the chain. Or a chisel, if you are not confident in your abilities.

How and how to cut a groove in a bar - a view of the opening from above.

Making straight cuts with a chainsaw requires experience, a good eye, and strong hands. You can also cut a groove with a hand-held circular saw, and where it does not reach, modify it with a chisel.

Both types of pigtails are equally reliable. P-casing is a classic option that has been proven for centuries. T-casing appeared relatively recently, it is used for installation in houses with grooves cut during the construction of walls.

Tip: The cost of installing a pigtail for 1 opening in a log house from different companies is now in the range of 3500 - 5000 rubles. At the same time, you can order the production of casing without a proprietary installation.

Thus, you will receive finished casing profiles of the shape and size you need. To slowly install them in your free time, saving tens of thousands of rubles.

An additional bonus when ordering a finished pigtail is the choice of options, the independent implementation of which is very expensive. For example, you can order casing with the expansion of openings inside the house - this visually enlarges the openings and gives more light. Or order a final window sill.

How to connect pigtail parts - lock options

The locks connecting the parts of the casing vary in complexity of execution. The correct lock prevents the box parts from moving relative to each other. Both during the installation of a window or door, and during the shrinkage of the house. It also prevents connections from blowing through.

Options:

• connection in a quarter. The simplest in execution, often used for self-installation. Requires additional fixation with corners.
• connection in a quarter with reverse corners. A more rigid version also requires additional fixation. blown through
• dovetail or box tongue connection
• author's locks of casing manufacturers and installers.

A quarter is the simplest and most unreliable lock.

On the left is a box pin, on the right is a casing with an author's lock.

The upper and lower locks in the casing, as a rule, are different in shape.



Lock on top, factory cut.

How to calculate the dimensions of openings if there are dimensions of windows / doors

Take for example a window 1.4 by 1.2 meters in a house made of profiled timber 150x150. We will calculate the width and height of the opening for the U-casing with a thickness of 90 mm. The wooden window sill is the lower part of the pigtail.

Calculation on the example of a window 1400 x 1200 mm.

Initial data:

• window width 1400 mm, window height 1200 mm
• thickness of sidewalls - 90 mm, top and window sill - 60 mm
• depth of the selected quarter under the frame - 25 mm
• drank over the top - 70 mm

Formula:

Opening width \u003d window width + two casing thicknesses - two quarter depths + 5 mm for the gap between the casing and the wall on each side and 10 mm for the gap between the casing and the frame, also on each side.

1400+90+90+30–50 = 1560 mm

Opening height \u003d window height + window sill thickness + top thickness + 25 mm for gaps - two quarter depths + clearance above the top.

1200+90+90+25–40+70 = 1435 mm

The principle, I think, is clear. If so, ask in the comments.

Conclusions on self-installation

1. Many install the casing with their own hands. So you can too.
2. Always keep in mind that you need warm openings. An okosyachka is not an end in itself, but an intermediate stage when installing windows and doors in a wooden house.
3. Remember that a house built from a bar of natural moisture shrinks by 10-15 cm per year. Leave enough free space above the top.
4. The lifespan of windows and doors of your house depends on the quality of the pigtail.
5. If possible, discard the rough casing in the mortgage bar.

Frequently asked Questions

• When to install the casing, is it necessary to wait for the shrinkage of the house?

You can close the warm perimeter, that is, you can install windows and doors in the casing immediately after the construction of the walls and roof of the log house. Casing blocks do not interfere with shrinkage and at the same time keep your frames safe.

• Is it possible to install plastic windows without casing?

In a frame or stone house, you can. In a log house - you can't.

• Glued or from the array - which pigtail is better?

Now most companies work with glued wood (those who offer fine casing). Because on the market there is an array of pine and fir trees of poor quality. Or at the wrong price.

• Do I need a pigtail in log houses built 5-10 years ago.

Need. Wood is a natural material. Its humidity depends on weather conditions. And the timber in the walls will still "play".

• In a log house, we want to install the casing in a mortgage bar. It's much cheaper and faster. Why is that bad?

It's not bad. But it can be more expensive than proper casing. The draft box will require finishing - installation and fitting of extensions. check its quality too

• If you missed any points on the pigtail of a log house, ask in the comments.

Ask a casing expert!

measurers and managers of Shuvoe.ru LLC, the oldest casing manufacturing and installation company in the Moscow region, answer your questions. Since 1995, Shuvoe.ru has been professionally glazing wooden houses.

Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, the openings of buildings made of logs and timber, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.

Shrinkage

But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel houses) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this moment is decisive in the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual, in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.

There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period of wood drying. But it's not. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for decades. But that is not all. The tree not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!

• Shrinkage in a log house - about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
• Shrinkage in a house made of timber - about 7 - 10 mm per one timber with a section of 150x150 mm
• Glued laminated timber - unknown.

There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log cabins as a percentage: about 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses made of timber and logs depends on many factors:

• from the material (log, rounded log, timber, glued timber);
• from the time of harvesting the material (winter harvesting or summer harvesting);
• from time of day(morning, evening) Yes-Yes!!! Don't be surprised - explored this too!
• from where the forest grew (marsh, field);on the degree of resinousness and density of the tree;
• on the dimensions of the material - both its length and thickness;
• from the moisture content of the material;
• on the size of the building;on construction technology (nagel, type of felling, etc.);
• from the material of interventional insulation;from the type of wood;
• from the time of year when construction is underway.

The strongest shrinkage occurs in log cabins from ordinary logs, then rounded logs, profiled timber, timber, and glued timber go down.
Even if the house is more than a dozen years old, it is still necessary when installing windows in a wooden house to take into account the vertical movements of the walls as a result of an increase or decrease in humidity and air temperature at different times of the year.

Wooden house - Live

A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is not carried out in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box, which acts as a link between the window and the wall. They call this box differently: casing, salary, deck, pigtail, linden.

As can be seen from the photo, the casing is an ordinary window frame made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.

The meaning of this design lies in the fact that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (beam) with nails, screws, or other fasteners, but is held with the help of grooves in the side posts, planted on the spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the pigtails - only tow, jute (lnovatin) and other soft insulation.

Shrinkage clearance

Please note: a large gap is specially left above the pigtail, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible shrinkage of logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to a minimum, but the upper log (beam) of the opening, with the correct calculation, will not press down or deform the pigtail. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not affect the size and shape of the pigtail in any way, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window inside it.

Shrink gap size

If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house, which has long gone through the shrinkage process, then, when disassembling the window blocks, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. not nailed to the beams of the opening, but fixed in it using a simple "groove-thorn" system on the sides.

This suggests that the technology for installing windows and doors in a wooden house in a pigtail was invented a very long time ago, and is used with success to this day. We will not invent anything new and will go the same way.

There are several ways to install a pigtail (for more details, follow the link):

• t-shaped pigtail - a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, a t-shaped profile is laid into it;
• p-shaped - the spike is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side posts of the casing).

We make both options, as they determine the maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the pigtail not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.

Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:we cut an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;

We form a groove for a T-shaped pigtail;

We form a spike for a p-shaped pigtail;

We make pigtail parts;

We install the pigtail in the finished opening;

We install a window in a wooden house in a pigtail, aligning it flush along the front edge (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such a length that they do not pierce the pigtail through and enter the logs (timber);

We blow out the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the window with foam, not forgetting about the waterproofing device (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for a draft window for sheathing, for finishing it is not required, since the window rests on a quarter) foam seam;

we install external platbands (we fasten to the casing);

we carry out the interior decoration of the window (window sill, slopes - it is not required when finishing the pigtail, since it is the slopes and the window sill).

We use foam only inside the pigtails. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute linen.

For the next 5 years (if the house is freshly built), we will have to periodically remove the trim and gradually reduce the amount of insulation invested there. If this is not done, then the upper parts may bend.

Even after complete shrinkage of the house, the gaps around the casing should never be sealed with foam.

Preparing the opening for installing a window in a wooden house

Before sawing, we mark the window opening with the help of a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly according to the level in all planes, therefore the pigtail should also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible in the initial level.

The lower crown in the opening must be sawn through, so that a flat horizontal platform is obtained.

The dimensions of the opening are determined based on the dimensions of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps.

All calculations are performed visually. Here is an example of a scheme for calculating the dimensions of an opening for a draft T-shaped pigtail:

Accordingly, we take a bar with a section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.

Here is a scheme for calculating the details of a finishing p-type pigtail:

For a p-shaped pigtail, we cut out a p-shaped profile from a solid bar.

The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrink) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage at home, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, calculate roughly, taking everything to the maximum, then for a window of a standard height of 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing beams, plus mounting clearances of ~ 245 mm), with a 15% shrinkage, the upper clearance will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole , the height of which, most likely, will eventually turn out to be unnecessarily large.

To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values ​​​​of building materials of various tree species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it easier, namely:

If you are building a new house, then start installing windows in it no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, during the manufacture and installation of the pigtail, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for a log house, 50-40 mm for a log house and 40 mm for a house made of glued beams;

If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 40 millimeters, only to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;

So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it out and cut it out. Now you need to cut a spike at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The spike is also marked with a level in the center of the log (beam).

We make the size of the spike 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.

We sew the side and lower part of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.

Making pigtails

First, you need to decide on the width of the pigtail bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be slightly larger, so that later, when installing the outer trim, they (platbands) fit tightly on the pigtail, and not on the wall. There is another option in a log house - a patch around the opening along the width of the groove.

Secondly, for the manufacture of pigtails, it is necessary to take well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself will deform soon when it dries.

First we cut out the lower part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill, we cut a groove for a spike 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.

Also, at the ends of both window sills, we make small recesses of 20 mm each for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.

We make side racks with a height exceeding the height of the plastic window frame by 70 mm. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut a groove for a spike 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock for the upper part in the side racks.

Lastly, we make the upper part of the pigtail. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side parts.

Installing a pigtail

We start installing the pigtail in the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then, an apex is inserted into the opening, under which we alternately substitute the side racks, putting them in grooves on the spikes.

We fasten the pigtail elements together with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not necessary), coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the details do not arch out.

We plug the upper shrinkage gap with soft insulation such as Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external trim. Read more in the article ""

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Now you can start installing the window.

Installing a window in a wooden house

We install a wooden or plastic window by aligning it with the front edge of the pigtail. It is not necessary to bring the window inwards by a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, due to the lower coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood (lower freezing depth).

Especially with the small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, deepening the window into the opening, we will be forced to cut the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that is formed as a result from the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as measurements taken by a thermal imager show, the main conductor of cold is the profile itself. For more details in the photo report made from photographs from the thermal imager, see here.

Black box for trim

If you calculated the dimensions of the opening and the pigtails as described above, then the mounting gaps around the window frame when installed in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on the top and 15 mm on the bottom (the lower gap is not made larger, because the stand profile makes it possible later, put a plastic window sill under the frame, the thickness of which is 30 mm).

It is more convenient to fasten the frame to the pigtail using self-tapping screws the size of such calculations so that they enter the body of the pigtail, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Using self-tapping screws with a length exceeding the thickness of the pigtail is dangerous because they will pass through the pigtail and screw into the logs (bar), which is unacceptable.

Provided that all the preparatory work has been done using the level, the window frame should stand exactly on the pigtail, i.e. the front edge of the pigtail should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.

Window waterproofing from the outside

Before foaming the gap between the window and the pigtail, it is necessary to decide with what material we will waterproof the installation seam from the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If we can simply close the mounting seam from the sun with platbands or flashings, then the situation is more complicated with waterproofing, because it must meet two basic conditions: do not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering.

All these conditions are met by such materials as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant "STIZ-A".
Sealant "STIZ-A" - a one-component vapor-permeable white acrylic sealant for sealing the outer layer - is characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood including.

It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even at negative temperatures down to -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find it in small containers, and it makes sense to buy a whole bucket when you install a lot of windows. If you choose STIZ-A as an external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.

Vapor-permeable waterproofing tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape, consisting of a vapor-diffusion membrane with an adhesive sealant layer on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, orient it correctly when gluing.

You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (do not forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, the passage of air is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to "blow through" the tape is the outer (street).

The sequence of actions (first the tape, then the foam or first the foam, then the tape) does not matter much, but you need to take into account that the foam, expanding when it dries, not only pulls the tape with a bubble (it will interfere later when installing the trim), but in general it can tear it away from a window or window frame.

Therefore, if you stick the tape in the first place, then immediately screw the trim or hard flashings on top of it, and only then foam it. Or foam first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.

PSUL - pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special composition, due to which it is waterproof and vapor-permeable. Supplied in a compressed state, rolled into rollers.

If you opt for PSUL tape, then buy the one that expands more than 30 mm. PSUL will have to be glued not to the outer side of the frame profile, but to the end near the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to glue the frame with PSUL before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.

The assembly seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has fully expanded and blocked the assembly gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with the waterproofing tape: the foam expanding when it dries can squeeze the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL from the street side with platbands or flashings.

Internal window vapor barrier

From the inside, the foam should also not remain open in order to prevent moisture from entering it from the room air. For the device of internal vapor barrier, you can use a vapor barrier tape, which has already been described in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 ("STIZ-B").

The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the pigtail. While the foam under the tape has not hardened, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise the tape "inflated" with foam will interfere with this later.

Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install window sills and the starting profile, as when using a tape. Nothing will stop you from doing it later, when it's convenient.

Interior decoration

The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes for installing slopes - we fix everything with self-tapping screws into a tree (into a pigtail).

It is also not required to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam or other material. To be safe, it is enough to foam the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to the mounting seam before installing the slopes. This will be enough, because the tree does not freeze through as deeply as concrete or brick.

Okosyachka as - window sill and slopes

This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve a greater, in my opinion, aesthetic effect, but this will require a good woodworking machine to evenly cut the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, into which install a plastic window.

What is a reverse quarter can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess in which the window frame will be installed from the street side. Quarter depth - 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: for a 5-chamber VEKA, the profile thickness is 70 mm, therefore the width of the back quarter should be 70 mm.

It is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the pigtail and the window, carefully assemble the pigtail and install the pigtail into the opening exactly according to the level - the inner clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all faces of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without skew. In order not to be mistaken in size, it is better to first make and install a pigtail, and only then accurately measure and order a plastic window in place.

Let's assume that the pigtail is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made in such a way that it turns out to be slightly larger than the "clearance" of the casing, or rather: 10 mm more in width and the same in height. From the inside, such a window will not enter the pigtail, but it will easily enter the opposite quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 5 mm on each side (no longer possible - the leaf hinges will interfere), and an assembly gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.

The frame is attached to the pigtail with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful hermetic joining of the frame and casing from the side of the room, a D-shaped door seal can be used. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the dimensions of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.

But as practice shows, with high-quality manufacturing of the pigtail, the need for such an addition disappears. The window is placed directly in the quarter and the meringue of the gaps is pressed tightly against the pigtail.

When attaching the frame, we firmly press it to the quarter, compressing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window foams from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with a waterproofing tape or smeared with STIZ-A sealant, and platbands are installed.

Of course, since we refuse the interior decoration of the casing with any additional elements, we must ennoble it, i.e. give it a look that matches the interior design of the room.

First of all, you need to give the lower crossbar the shape of a window sill so that its inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.

Second - we make the "dawn" of the inner surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross section) shape of these elements and cut out a large chamfer, simulating the turn of the slopes.

Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and varnish it. It is possible to cover the wood with a stain of the desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and / or the color of the walls.

There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more costly option - to brush the surface, i.e. process antique.

Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood with a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of pile and fibers, then the final gloss is given.

You can immediately cover the tree with varnish, but the "aged" wood will look much more effective after being treated with a stain of the color you need. However, there is an even more spectacular way of coloring - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.

This is achieved with the help of paint of the desired color: the entire front surface of the casing is covered with it, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth until the paint has had time to dry. The final stage of artificial aging is varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. Then you can rub the surface with a soft cloth to give a gloss.