Cross stitch goat sheep scheme. Embroidery "Goat": beautiful schemes and original ideas. "Invisible" reduction 4. Fold5

The coming year promises changes for which any of us strives to prepare! The symbol of the goat in 2015 will become the most important attribute of the hearth, therefore, in order to attract good luck and success, everyone needs to acquire their own “new idol”. The goat is a rather strong sign and does not tolerate competition. And this means that the past patrons of the family should disappear (at least for the coming year). Rats, bulls, tigers, bunnies, dragons, snakes and horses can temporarily “live” on shelves in a garage or clean basement.

When choosing gifts for friends or relatives, give preference to the traditional option. On the one hand, this may seem banal, but on the other hand, they are traditions! The symbol of 2015 does not have to be in the form of a figurine, a calendar or a fridge magnet. A pillow, towel or tablecloth with this symbolism will become much more interesting! It can also be napkins, needle cases, various bags (for buttons, seeds) and even phone cases! And an important feature of the gift will be that it will be made with your own hands! Yes, yes, and it's easy!

You can decorate anything with embroidery, and the proposed schemes will help you with this! Our beautiful schemes and original goat embroidery ideas will become an original basis for your handmade New Year's gifts.

Bright New Year's embroidery can originally decorate almost any of your handmade gifts: a needle bed, a napkin, a soft New Year's toy, a case for glasses, a mobile phone or a mug, a key chain. You can also decorate a tablecloth, curtains or even a creative holiday card with such embroidery.

And such a cute goat will really appeal to lovers of everything unusual and a little funny. A T-shirt with the image of this funny goat can be presented to both a child and an adult with a sense of humor. One thing is certain: such a little thing will not gather dust on the far shelf of the wardrobe, but can become a talisman for the whole of 2015.

An embroidered image of the Goat - the talisman of 2015 - is not only a great opportunity to realize your creative ideas, but also to cheer up a dear person. After all, it goes without saying that a handmade gift is much more pleasant to receive than the most expensive store item.

A simple scheme, but the embroidery on it turns out to be bright and beautiful. A great option for beginners who want to realize their creative ideas by making an original gift for the New Year 2015 to their family, friends or colleagues.

Do you want to give a sunny greetings from summer for the New Year 2015? Then embroider a mischievous goat with the scheme proposed below. Vivid emotions are guaranteed for you and the recipient of the gift!

And also don't forget about another hostess of the year who will share this title with a goat, and dazzle together with the children

knitted goat Vasilisa

Legend:
vp - air loop
sc - single crochet
ss - connecting post
psn - double crochet
dec - two sc with one top
dv. dec - three sc with one top
inc - from one loop two sc
dv. inc - from one loop three sc
PV - knitting turn


Necessary materials:

• Yarn: Samara SPER ANGORA (60% mohair, 40% acrylic - 500m/100g - 40g = goat color
• Acrylic - VICTORIA Sper baby 400m/100g = pantaloons and bustier - pink
• Acrylic - VICTORIA Sper baby 400m/100gr = boots and corset - red
• Acrylic - 400m/100gr = wasp, horns and hooves - gray
• Yarn for hair (Crystal 490 * 2 / 100g or any other, for example, yarn for felting)
• "Weed" = cape
• Eyes - ready-made eyes (buttons),
• Cilia
• Fabric for skirts and blouses (batiste, silk), lace for knickers
• Wire for frame
• Hook No. 1.25,

knitting needles No. 5 for a cape

Vasilisa and her cavalier Filimon

Additional Information

"Invisible" reduction

4.


Fold

5.

Description of knitting goat Vasilisa

Head

Ch 7, in the 2nd loop from the hook:
1 p. = 5 sbn, dv. inc, 4 sc, inc = 14
2 p. = inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc = 20
3 p. = 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 3 times, 4 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 2 times = 26
4 p. = 2 sc, approx. 6 sb. arb, 5 sat. approx. 6 sb. inc, 3 sc = 30
5 p. \u003d (4 sbn, prib) * 6 times \u003d 36
6 p. \u003d (5 sc, prib) * 6 times \u003d 42
7 p. = 9 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 11 sc = 44
8 p.-17 p. = 44
18 p. = 8 sc, approx, 6 sc. arb, 13 sat. dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc = 44
19 p.-21 p. = 44
22 p. = 31 sc. behind the front wall 11 sc, 2 sc = 44
23 p.-24 p. = 44
25 p. = 44 + 1 bias loop
26 p. = 31 sc. we connect the fold: 11 sbn together with the back walls of the 22nd row, 2 sbn = 44
27 p. = 44
28 p. \u003d 1 sb, inc, 2 sb. inc, 18 sc, inc, 2 sc. inc, 17 sc = 48
29 p. = 16 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 3 sc = 51
30 r. = 4 sc, inc, 23 sc, inc, 13 sc, inc, 8 sc = 54
31 p. = 54
32 p. = 5 sc. prib, 6 sbn, dv. prib, 10 sb, dv. inc, 6 sc, inc, 23 sc = 60
33 p.-38 p. = 60
39 p. = 50 sbn, 3 ch, 3 loops pass (hole for the frame neck - head, in the middle at the bottom of the head), 7 sbn = 60
40 r.-44 r. = 60
45 p. \u003d 15 sc, 2 ch, 2 loops pass (hole for the left horn), 12 sc. 2 ch, 2 loops pass (hole for the right horn), 29 sc = 60
46 p.-47 p. = 60
48 p. \u003d (8 sbn, ub) * 6 times \u003d 54
49 p. \u003d (7 sbn, ub) * 6 times \u003d 48
50 r. \u003d (6 sbn, ub) * 6 times \u003d 42
51 p. \u003d (5 sbn, ub) * 6 times \u003d 36, fill your head
52 p. \u003d (4 sb, ub) * 6 times \u003d 30
53 p. \u003d (3 sbn, ub) * 6 times \u003d 24
54 p. \u003d (2 sbn, ub) * 6 times \u003d 18, beat
55 p. \u003d (1 sb, ub) * 6 times \u003d 12
56 p. \u003d dec * 6 times \u003d 6, pull off, fasten the thread, cut off.

6.

Ears, 2 parts

1 p. = 5sc in KA
2 p. = 5 inc = 10
3 p. \u003d (4 sbn, prib) * 2 times \u003d 12
4 p. \u003d (3 sbn, prib) * 3 times \u003d 15
5 p. \u003d (4 sbn, prib) * 3 times \u003d 18
6 p. = 17 sc, inc = 19
7 p. = 18 sc, inc = 20
8 p. = 19 sc, inc = 21
9 p. = 20 sc, inc = 22
10 p. = 21 sc, inc = 23
11 p. = 22 sc, inc = 24
12 p. \u003d (7 sbn, prib) * 3 times \u003d 27
13 p. \u003d (8 sbn, prib) * 3 times \u003d 30
14 p.-19 p. = 30
20 p. = dec, 28 sc = 29
21 p. = dec, 27 sc = 28
22 p. = kill 26 sc = 27
23 p. = 27
24 p. \u003d fold in half, knit together 13 sc.

7.

Horns, 2 parts

12 ch we close in a ring
1 p.-5 p. = 12 sc
6 p. = dec, 10 sc = 11
7 p. = 11
8 p. = dec, 9 sc = 10
9 p. = 10+1 bias loops
10 p. = 10
11 p. = kill 8 sc = 9
12 p. = 9
13 p. = kill 7 sc = 8
14 p. = 8
15 p. = kill 6 sc = 7
16 p. = 7
17 - dec. 5 sc = 6
18 p. = 6
19 - dec. 4 sc = 5
20 p. = kill 3 sc = 4, tighten, fasten the thread, hide.

8.

Legs and torso

20 VP we close in a ring
1 p. = 5 p. = 20 sc
6 p. = 19 sc. inc = 21
7 p. = 21
8 p. = 20 sc, inc = 22
9 p. = 21 sc, inc = 23
10 p. = 22 sc, inc = 24
11 p. = 23 sc, inc = 25
12 p. = 24 sc, inc = 26
13 p. = 26
14 p. = 24 sc, dec = 25+1 offset loop
15 p. \u003d 10 sb, approx, 10 sb. 2 dec = 24
16 p. = 22 sc, dec = 23 + 1 offset loop
17 p. = 21 sc, dec = 22
18 p. = 19 p. = 22
20 p. = 21 sc, inc = 23
21 p. = 23
22 p. = 10 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc = 25
23 p. \u003d 25. change the color of the thread to the color of the pantaloons
24 p. = 12 sc, inc, 12 sc = 26
25 p. = behind the back wall - 25 sc, inc = 27
26 p. = 30 p. = 27
31 p. = 14 sc, dec, 11 sc = 26, break the thread on the 1st leg.
On the 2nd leg
31 p. = 14 sc, dec, 6 sc
Now we connect the legs, so the next column in the 9th loop of the first leg and then we knit:
on the 1st leg e- 26 sbn, on the 2nd leg - 5 sbn before the marker, 10 sbn after the marker.
Rearrange the marker, now here is the beginning of the row.

9.


32 p. = 25 sc, (inc, 2 sc) * 4 times, (2 sc, inc) * 4 times, 3 sc = 60
33 p. \u003d 28 sb, inc, (4 sb, inc) * 2 times, 4 sb, (inc, 4 sb) * 2 times, approx. 6 sc = 66
34 p. = 11 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 20 sc = 64
35 p. = 40 p. = 64
41 p. = 8 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 26 sc, dec, 17 sc = 61
42 p. = 61
43 p. = 12 sc, dec, 47 sc = 60
44 p. = 47 p. = 60
48 p. \u003d 31 sb, (dec, 2 sb) * 3 times, double. dec, (2 sc, dec) * 3 times, 2 sc = 52
49 p. = 14 sc, inc, 17 sc, (dec, 1 sc) * 6 times, dec = 46
50 r. = 1 sc, dec, 25 sc, dec, 16 sc = 44
51 p. = twice
first 51 p. = pink thread, behind the front wall = 44
second 51 p. = thread color goat, behind the back wall = 44
then we knit with the color of the goat
52 p. = 30 sb, (dec, 2 sb) * 3 times, dec = 40
53 p. = dec, 9 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 9 sc, dec, 7 sc = 40
54 p. = 57 p. = 40
58 p. = -40+4 bias stitches, side marker
59 p. = 12 sc, dec, 19 sc, inc, 6 sc = 40
60 rubles = 40
61 p. = 12 sc, dec, 19 sc, inc, 6 sc = 40
62 p. = 40
63 p. = 11 sc, dec, 19 sc, inc, 7 sc = 40
64 p. = 40
65 p. = 2 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 7 sc = 43
66 p. = 43
67 p. = 7 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 2 sc = 47
68 p. = 47, change color to pink (bustier)
69 p. = pink - = 47
70 rubles \u003d 5 sb, (inc, 1 sb) * 3 times, inc, 5 sb. inc, (1 sc, inc) * 3 times, 23 sc = 55
the underline should be in the middle of the chest
71 p. \u003d 5 sbn, (2 psn, appr. psn) * 3 times, 2 psn, kill. sb, 1 sb, dec. PSN, 2 PSN, (approx. PSN, 2 PSN) * 3 times, 23 PSN = 59
72 p. = 5 sbn, 14 psn, 3 sbn. 14 psn, 23 sbn = 59 + 1 offset p.
73 p. = 5 sbn, 6 psn, approx. psn, 7 psn, dv. dec, 7 psn, approx. psn, 6 psn, 8 prs, 12 sl-st, 3 prs = 59
74 p. = 6 sbn, 12 psn, 1 sbn, ub. sb, 1 sb, 12 dc, 25 sb = 58
75 rubles = 6 sbn, 12 dc, 3 sbn, 12 dc, 25 sbn = 58
76 p. \u003d 6 sb, 12 dc, 3 sb, 12 dc, 5 sb, 20 sl-st = 58
77 p. \u003d 1ss, 6 sb, 12 dc, 3 sb, 12 dc, 24 sb = 58
78 p. \u003d 1 sc, 2 ch, 2 loops pass (hole for the arm frame), 4 sc, (2 psn, kill psn) * 3 times, double. kill sbn, (deb. psn, 2 psn) * 3 times, 4 sbn, 2 ch, 2 loops pass (hole for the arm frame), 18 sbn = 50
79 p. \u003d 7 sbn, (kill psn, 1 psn) * 3 times, 2 sbn, (1 psn, kill psn) * 3 times, 23 sbn \u003d 44, change to the color of the goat
80 r. \u003d goat color - behind the back wall, \u003d 44
81 p. = 2 sc, inc, 10 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, inc, 16 sc = 44
82 p. = 44
83 p. = 3 sc, inc, 22 sc, inc, 17 sc = 46
84 p. = 85 p. = 46
The body can already be stuffed. I have a filler - sintepuh, it is very easily pierced with a frame wire.
form the shoulders reductions - the line of the shoulders, if the shoulders warp - we make the required number of offset loops
86 p. \u003d 3 sb, dv. dec, 9 sb, dec, 9 sb, dv. dec, 17 sc = 41
87 p. \u003d 2 sb, dv. dec, 17 sb, dv. dec, 16 sc = 37

10.

88 p. \u003d 1 sb, dv. dec, 15 sb, dv. dec, 15 sc = 33
89 p. = dv. dec, 6 sc, dec. 6 sc, doors. dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc = 27
90 r. \u003d (7 sbn, ub) * 3 times \u003d 24
91 p. = 92 p. = 24
93 p. \u003d (dec, 4 sc) * 4 times \u003d 20
94 p. = 98 p. = 20,
add filler.

If desired, we make a chest tightening and sew (or knit) lace on pantaloons.
You can knit the goat's body in one color, and knit the pantaloons (or panties) and bustier (or bra) separately and put it on.

11.

Hands, 2 parts

Kopytse
10 ch, in the 2nd loop from the hook:
1 p. \u003d inc, 7 sb, dv. inc, 8 sc = 20
2 p. \u003d 20 + 1 offset p.
3 p. \u003d (dv. ub, 3 sbn, dv. inc, 3 sb) * 2 times \u003d 20
4 p. \u003d 20 + 1 offset p.
5 p. \u003d (dv. ub, 3 sbn, dv. inc, 3 sb) * 2 times \u003d 20
6 p. = 20
7 p. \u003d (dv. ub, 3 sbn, dv. inc, 3 sb) * 2 times \u003d 20
8 p. = 20
9 p. \u003d (dec, 3 sbn) * 4 times \u003d 16, change to the color of the goat

Hand
10 p. = 16 p. = 16
17 p. = 7 sc, inc, 8 sc = 17
18 p. = 21 p. = 17
22 p. = 14 sbn, 1 psn, approx. psn *2 times = 19
23 p. = approx. psn * 2 times, 1 psn, 11 sc. 5 hc = 21
24 p. \u003d 5 psn, 2 sb. 7slst, 2 sbn, 5 psn = 21 + 1 p. Offset
25 p. = 5 psn. 11 sb. 1 psn. kill psn *2 times = 19
26 p. = kill psn * 2 times, 1 psn, 14 sc = 17
27 p. = 32 p. = 17
33 p. = 11 sc, inc, 5 sc = 18
34 p. = 37 p. = 18
38 p. = 3 sc, inc, 14 sc = 19
39 p. = 41 p. = 19, ss, fasten the thread, leave the end for sewing
12.

Hoof tightening

Input - v. 1 - red. in the middle of the palm, 7th row
Conclusion - v. 2 - yellow, in the middle of the back side, 2-3 row
13.

14.

Boots, 2 parts

Heel
1 p. = 6 sc in KA
2 p. \u003d inc * 6 times \u003d 12
3 p. \u003d (2 sbn, prib) * 4 times \u003d 16
4 p. = behind the back wall - 16
5 p. = 9 p. = 16, ss, this is the height of the heel, may vary.

The front of the boot
1 p. = 6sc in KA
2 p. \u003d inc * 6 times \u003d 12
3 p. \u003d (3 inc, 3 sc) * 2 times \u003d 18
4 p. \u003d ((1 sc, inc) * 3 times, 3 sc) * 2 times \u003d 24
5 p. \u003d - ((2 sc, inc) * 3 times, 3 sc) * 2 times \u003d 30
6 p. = behind the back wall - 30, cut out the insole according to the size of the sole
7 p. = 30
further increase on the heel, decrease on the toe
8 p. = 6 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 20 sc = 32
9 p. = 7 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 21 sc = 34
10 p. \u003d 7 sb, inc, 2 sb, inc, 2 sb, (dec, 1 sb) * 2 times, 2 dec, (1 sb, dec) * 2 times, 5 sb = 30
11 p. = 20 sc, 5 dec = 25
attach the heel
12 p. = 7 sb, 6 sb with the heel, 7 sb, dec, 1 sb. dec = 23
13 p. \u003d along the front - 7 sc. on the heel - 3 sc. approx. 2 sbn, prib, 3 sbn, on the front - 7 sbn, doors. dec = 27
14 p. = dec, 9 sc. arb, 2 sat. approx. 9 sc, dec, 1 sc = 27
15 p. = 27
16 p. = 25 sc. dec = 26
17 p. = 6 sbn, ub. 11 sb. kill 5 sc = 24
18 p. = 24
19 p. = 12 sc. kill 10 sc = 23
20 p. = dec, 21 sc = 22
21 p. = 24 p. = 22
25 p. = 1 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 9 sc = 24
26 p. \u003d 24, ss, fasten the thread, hide
15.

Here are the finished boots
16.

head tightening

Eyes
input - neck, output - t. 1 (blue) 32 p., where dv. prib; input - t. 2 (blue) 36 p., 18 loops from the marker, output - t. 3 (blue) 36 row, 27 loops from the marker; input - t. 4 (blue) 32 row, where dv. inc, output - neck
17.


Nose

18.


Mouth
input - neck, output - t. 1-3 p. down from the beginning of knitting; input - t. 2-3 p. down from the beginning of knitting, the output is the neck. Between t.1 and t.2 5-6 loops
19.

Assembly

frame
Frame length = (loop in the sole of the boot + the height of the goat from the floor to the top of the head + the length of the horns) * 2 times.
For arms = loop in the hoof + shoulder width + two arm lengths.

Let's start assembling
Boot frame see photo
20.


For the heel, you can use a wine cork by cutting off the desired height and making a vertical hole for the wire with an awl or a corkscrew.
For the sole - cardboard or plastic.
We fasten the wires coming from the front of the boot and from the heel together with adhesive tape. The wire for the heel is approximately equal to the height of the boot. We stuff boots.
Next, we insert the wire coming from the boot into the bottom of the leg (where we started knitting the legs), lower the leg into the boot for 2-3 rows and sew, then: leg, buttocks, chest, neck, head, horns.
The second wire is similar
21.


We pierce the wire for the hands through the holes for the hands, bend the loops at the ends, put the handles on the wires, stuff them, sew them on. You can make, if desired, button, cotter pin or thread fastening
22.


I usually shape the head first, then finish the assembly.
Head, decoration.
Glue on the eyes.
We knit the eyelids (a chain of ch of the desired length in 2-3 threads of the main color, followed by tinting or the color of "shadows") or embroider.
We glue the eyelashes (Vasilisa has ordinary female false eyelashes, you can make eyelashes yourself).
We embroider the nose.
Ears are sewn
23.

24.

Frame - we insert the spine into the opening of the neck, bring it out into the holes for the horns, put the horns on the wire, add a little filler, sew the horns.
Sew on the head.

Any hairstyle to your taste, Vasilisa has a braid around her head.

25.

Our goat is almost ready!

clothing

At your discretion. If desired, clothes can be knitted.
Here the blouse and skirt are made of cambric.
Blouse - 2 fabrics are cut out like a "bat", shoulder and side seams are sewn, boat neckline, put on over the head. Sleeve length according to your desire.
Skirt - a rectangular piece of fabric is sewn with one seam, the length and width of the skirt are according to your desire. The top of the skirt (belt) is stitched with large stitches with a strong thread. The skirt is put on the goat, the thread is tightened, assemblies are obtained.
Corset, cape and jacket are tied
26.

Corset, hook, red yarn (like boots)
Recruiting 30 ch
1 p. \u003d 1 ch, 30 sbn \u003d 30, PV
2 p. = 6 p. \u003d 2 ch, 7 psn, 16 sbn, 7 psn \u003d 30, PV
the number of rows may be different depending on the desired width (height) of the corset
We put a corset on a goat, we make lacing in front.

27.


Cape, knitting needles, "grass"
Cast on 10 stitches.
odd rows - remove the hem, * yarn over, knit 2 together * to the end of the row, knit 1
even rows - purl loops
We knit to the desired length.
You can crochet a cape, stole, shawl.
We dress our young lady, if desired - earrings, beads, etc.
28.

Jacket, hook, red yarn (like boots)
We collect 30 ch, knit in straight and reverse rows
1 p. = 8 p. = 1 ch, 30 sc
Next, divide into shelves and back
Left shelf

10 p. \u003d 1 ch, 11 sbn \u003d 11
11 p. \u003d 1 ch, dec, 9 sb \u003d 10
12 p. \u003d 1 ch, 10 sb \u003d 10
13 p. \u003d 1 ch, dec, 8 sb \u003d 9
14 p. \u003d 1 ch, 9 sb \u003d 9
15 p. \u003d 1 ch, dec, 7 sb \u003d 8
16 p. \u003d 1 ch, 8 sbn \u003d 8
17 p. = 1 ch, dec, 6 sc = 7
18 p. \u003d 1 ch, 7 sb \u003d 7
19 p. \u003d 1 ch, dec, 5 sbn \u003d 6
20 p. \u003d 1 ch, 6 sb \u003d 6
21 p. \u003d 1 ch, dec, 4 sb \u003d 5
22 p. \u003d 1 ch, 5 sb \u003d 5
23 p. \u003d 1 ch, 2 sb, 2 sl-st, break the thread.
We skip 14 loops along the main fabric, fasten the thread into the 15th loop, knit.

Right shelf
9 p. \u003d (1 ch, inc) * 3 times, 2 sc \u003d 11
10 p. \u003d 1 ch, 11 sbn \u003d 11
11 p. \u003d 1 ch, 8 sb, dec, 1 sb \u003d 10
12 p. \u003d 1 ch, 10 sb \u003d 10
13 p. \u003d 1 ch, 7 sbn, dec, 1 sbn \u003d 9
14 p. \u003d 1 ch, 9 sb \u003d 9
15 p. \u003d 1 ch, 6 sb, dec, 1 sb \u003d 8
16 p. \u003d 1 ch, 8 sbn \u003d 8
17 p. \u003d 1 ch, 5 sb, dec, 1 sb \u003d 7
18 p. \u003d 1 ch, 7 sb \u003d 7
19 p. \u003d 1 ch, 4 sb, dec, 1 sb \u003d 6
20 p. \u003d 1 ch, 6 sb \u003d 6
21 p. \u003d 1 ch, 3 sb, dec, 1 sb \u003d 5
22 p. \u003d 1 ch, 5 sb \u003d 5
23 p. \u003d 1 ch, 3 sl-st, 2 sb, break the thread

Back
On missed 14 stitches
9 p. = 22 p. = 1 ch, 13 sc
Sewing shoulder seams
29.

Sleeve, 2 pieces

The beginning of the row - the bottom of the armhole
1 p. \u003d 1 ch, (2 sbn, dec. sbn) * 2 times, 2 dc, dec. psn, 2 sn, ub. sn, 2sn, ub. psn, 2 psn, kill. sb, 2 sb, dec. sbn, 2 sbn = 23, ss, PV
2 p. \u003d 1 ch, 5 sb, 4 dc, 5 dc, 4 dc, 5 sb \u003d 23, sl-st, PV
3 p. \u003d 1 ch, 3 sbn, 17 dn, 3 sbn \u003d 23, ss
From the 4th row we knit in a circle
4 p. = 7 p. \u003d 2 ch, 23 sn, ss
8 p. = 2 ch, 1 sn, approx. sn, 21 sn = 24, ss
9 p. = 2 ch, 2 sn, approx. sn, 21 sn = 25, ss
10 p. = 2 ch, 2 sn, approx. sn, 22 sn = 26, ss
11 p. \u003d 2 ch, 26 psn \u003d 26, sl-st

Frill

Along the starting line
1 p. \u003d 2 ch, 6 sn, 6 inc. s2n, 6 doors approx. s3n, 6 approx. s2n, 6 sn = 60, PV
2 p. \u003d 2 ch, (approx. sn, 1 sn) * 3 times, (approx. s2n, 1 s2n) * 5 times, 21 inc, s3n, (s2n, approx. s2n) * 5 times, (1sn, approx. sn )*3 times = 90
3 p. \u003d 2 ch, 90 ps
Tie on the shelves and neck of the psn
30.

Happiness and Peace to all of us!

It is not difficult to make a goat milking machine with your own hands. It, as well as purchased in stores, will help you get a valuable and nutritious product - milk. The device facilitates the process, increases milk yield by 20-25%: animals do not experience discomfort and behave calmly, which reduces product losses. Of course, you can buy a ready-made device. But if you make it yourself, it will save the budget without compromising results.

Such a device facilitates the process of milking and increases the results of milk yield by 20-25%.

The device is used in 95% of cases by farmers in a situation where goats are in enclosures. The device reduces the likelihood that animals will run out or knock over buckets of milk. Machine functions:

• immobilization of goats(discomfort is absent);
• increase in udder access area.

The quality and speed of work increase, losses decrease, goats do not experience stress during the milking period, which positively affects the health of the entire herd. It is not difficult to make machines for a goat with your own hands, on the Internet you can find various diagrams and drawings. It is also recommended to contact specialists to avoid mistakes and increase reliability. The peculiarity of the milking process with such a device is that the goat is on a hill, and it is more convenient for the operator (milkmaid) to work. In addition, the device allows you to attract an animal - a container with compound feed or a treat is installed. Over time, the pets get used to and rise to the platform themselves.

Self assembly

To facilitate the work of the farmer, schemes have been developed that allow you to create a machine for convenient milking of a goat, which is mounted by hand using drawings. The manufacturing process is simple and accessible for study, the assembled structure is reliable and durable.

Using the scheme, you can create a goat milking machine that will work stably. All you need is woodworking skills at the beginner level.

With minimal carpenter skills, such a machine is easy to make at home.

Necessary tools and materials:

• inch board (it is better to choose a beam) - size 50X50;
• board 1 m long;
• jigsaw.

The scheme also takes into account the possibility of installing mechanical devices:

• engine (not too powerful);
• pump (with low pressure);
• milking equipment;
• a can or other container for collecting fresh milk.

Tip: the design should take into account the dimensions of the enclosure, be comfortable for the animal, so measurements must be taken carefully.

The scheme for creating a machine is simple: despite the many points, the work will not take much time. The only point that you need to pay close attention to is the assembly of the elements of the mechanism for fixing the head of the animal.

For convenience, diagrams are presented, where:

• D - legs (5X10X30 cm, 4 in total);
• C - end (2.5X10X50 cm, 2 in total);
• B - sidewall (2.5X10X120 cm, 2 in total);
• J - timber (5X5X50 cm, 2 in total);
• A - boards used to create flooring (2.5X18X120 cm, 3 in total).

Step-by-step scheme for mounting the machine, figures 1-4: creating legs and flooring.

Mounting steps

1. 2 legs should be connected to a strong reliable base of the structure - the end, which should pass through their tops (as shown in Figure 1).
2. Repeat steps with the 2 remaining legs on the second side of the loom.
3. Next, you need to connect the resulting parts to the sidewall, focusing on the upper end (Figures 2 and 3).
4. The next step is to install and secure the bars (2 pcs.). The distance from the edges should be 40 cm.
5. Adjust the angles of the base as needed (they should be 90°).
6. The next step is to fix the boards intended for flooring (Fig. 4).

A mandatory action is the rounding of all sharp corners and edges (necessary to reduce injury risk).

The elements of the machine, designed to assemble the rack and the holding mechanism, are shown in the diagrams:

• E - racks (2.5X10X50, 2 in total);
• G - details (2.5X 10X50 cm, 4 in total);
• F- fixing rails(2.5X10X120 cm, 2 in total).

Machine assembly continued, Figures 5-8: attaching legs to legs and deck.

The process of assembling the rack, as well as the holding mechanism, is carried out in several steps.

1. Corners are cut at the rack - it is necessary to draw a line from one corner in the upper part down 10 cm and to the left 5 cm and saw off (dashed line in Figure 5).
2. Attach 2 parts to racks 1 and 2 - one of them is level with the upper ends, the second - at a distance of 10 cm from the lower ends. Then, on the other side, fasten the remaining 2 elements so that they are opposite the parts (Figure 6).
3. At the fixing rails at a distance of half a meter from the bottom, create a hole in order for the head of the animal to pass.
4. Additionally, this rail (1 in Figure 6) will need to cut off the corner (top 10 cm, left 5 cm).
5. Next, install the fixing rail 2 in the center of the resulting structure in paragraph 2 between the two parts and fix it - for immobility.
6. The fixing rail 1 is installed at some distance from the fixing rail 2 - you get a movable part that fixes the position of the head. The lower part of the element will need to be attached with a bolt by drilling a hole (Figure 7).

The attachment for installing the feeder depends on the chosen design. At the end of the work you need:

• connect the base with the rack - the lower part should rest on the boards intended for flooring, fixing is done through the racks (1 and 2), as well as the fixing rail 2;
• attach angle brackets (picture 8).

The locking device is selected at will - a hook or a fastening cord.

Milking

The design of the machine allows you to securely fix the animal and completely express milk from the udder.

The animal is milked in the morning and in the evening - before and after feeding or walking in the pasture. The use of the machine assumes that the goat is led onto a boardwalk along the ladder, the rail is fixed by the horns or neck with a pin. As a result, sudden movements are impossible.

The goat milking parlor allows you to express the milk from the udder completely. A feature of the process is that milking is carried out from any side convenient for the specialist.

Device Features

The milking system is vacuum, which ensures pulsation. The process uses a light glass. The optimum vacuum value is 38 - 44 kPa. The rhythm of the pulsation is 70 - 90 pulses / minute. When milking is completed, the animals need to be processed - rinse the udder. The device also needs sanitary cleaning: goat's milk is fatter than cow's, which leads to rapid contamination of the devices. For a dairy goat, care is important, since pustules may appear on an untreated udder, bacteria will enter the milk and spoil the entire collected product.

Thus, the manufacture of machines according to existing or specially designed drawings is not difficult. It is important to remember: we milk the animal twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. The use of devices on a regular basis is effective when the livestock is more than 2-3 goats. Milk yield increases by 2-3 times, regardless of the dairy breed available on the farm or on the farm. The lactation period is 11 months, during which the indicator is kept at the same level, which is beneficial if milk is part of the agricultural business.

Goats are unpretentious animals for domestic breeding. They can easily endure severe cold, normally get along in the same territory with birds. Goats can easily live in a furnished attic or hallway. But, if you have such an opportunity, it is better to quickly make a separate room for goats. Building a barn with your own hands is not difficult. Such content of goats will be the most correct.

You can quickly make a goat shed with your own hands

How should it look?

A goat barn must meet criteria set by breeders and farmers. These animals perfectly adapt to any climate, they are not afraid of a lot of sun or cold weather. But still, the barn should be dry and bright, because goats should not be in dampness.

The key to exceptionally successful and correct keeping of goats in all respects is ventilation thought out to the smallest detail and complete dryness. In a warm region, a goat can even live under an ordinary outdoor canopy. In a cold and even frosty winter, you can’t do without a highly insulated corral. The goat room can be separate or shared with other pets. The minimum temperature that should be for normal maintenance is 8 degrees Celsius.

Remember that a goat and little kids should have a separate erected stall - avoid various conflicts in the paddock, and the kids will always have enough food.

A do-it-yourself corral is built quickly if you know certain features. You can do everything in just a couple of days. Building a barn is a fairly easy task, but what should be its details?

Goat barn blueprint

Room floor

A shed for the proper maintenance of goats must be made with your own hands with high quality so as not to create discomfort for pets. Goats are capricious in relation to a sleeping place. They prefer exceptionally dry and slightly elevated places.

If you decide to make a barn with your own hands, you need to build a high-quality floor. When laying the floor, it will be necessary to make a slope so that the liquid flows out - so the animals will be kept correctly. A litter should be placed on top, which will help the goat avoid even the slightest contact with factors that irritate her. Sawdust, leaves, shavings, straw can be brought into the corral as bedding.

stall

When you make a barn only with your own hands, keep in mind that keeping goats should be in a spacious room, as tightness can affect milk yield.

The front erected wall of the stall is made in the form of a not very high door on stable and strong hinges. The height should be approximately one meter. If you want to increase comfort, you can make a nursery on this wall with your own hands and give hay to the goats so as not to go directly into the stall.

Goat stall scheme

Nursery and feeders

The very maintenance of goats also implies that you will make a manger with feeders in the barn with your own hands. Animals are quite picky, so they can easily sort through a whole stack of hay in search of a blade of grass they like. It is recommended to equip the corral with special feeders so as not to consume a lot of feed. In this case, the barn will look much cleaner, and the maintenance will be ideal, since the goats will not stomp on their own food.

Place feeders and nurseries in such a way that you can easily get to them.

Provide a drinking bowl - this is an ordinary bucket that you do not just put in a pen, but hang up to make it easier and more convenient for a goat to drink from there.

Goat Feeder Dimensions and Diagram

Manufacturing

All the criteria by which it is necessary to build a corral are clear, then everything is done in stages and quickly. To make a good pen, you should use only quality materials. Detailed instructions for preparing the barn look like this:

1. Choosing a space for the building itself.
2. Carefully lay the foundation so that the barn is stable and comfortable.
3. Build windows taking into account the main entrance, a few windows only on the south and warm side. If the room is small in size, the window must be made from the side of the main door.
4. Lay a secure and strong wooden deck and floor.
5. The roof can be sloping or gable. The second method is in the lead - in a small attic you can store hay. Additional insulation from the roof is not required. It is recommended to cover the shed with tiles or ordinary slate.
6. Install a small exhaust pipe that provides dampers. Such a detail is placed away from the place of constant rest of the goats.
7. Doors are made double-leaf, but such that they can be easily insulated in severe frosts.
8. Inside, stalls are erected, the necessary mangers and feeders are installed under them to keep grain, hay and convenience.