Water-based primer for cars onb. Primers for body repair: types and purpose. Do-it-yourself method

Automotive primer as a special material is used in automotive service for several purposes at once and in different situations:

1. Prevention of corrosion processes in the car. After stripping and processing the body when removing rust, a special primer is applied to the surface to prevent the appearance of new rust;
2. High-quality coating in the form of varnish or paint.
3. It perfectly retains moisture, prevents the appearance of new foci of rust and their penetration into the depth of the metal.

Such soil in its composition is divided into several large types:

1. Polyurethane based cleaner. Such soils have an excellent indicator of elasticity. To apply such a primer, the metal surface must first be prepared and cleaned. This type of material has good protective properties and not only prevents the appearance of rust, but also protects the metal from other influences;
2. Alkyd soils. This type of material is considered one of the best on the market, as its qualities are excellent for preventing corrosion processes. A feature of this material is the addition of zinc particles, which are known to resist corrosion well. It is strictly forbidden to apply such material on a surface covered with rust, like any anti-corrosion primer.

On the video - anti-corrosion primer for cars:

Application method

According to the method of application, anti-corrosion primer is divided into two types:

1. Application with a brush. For processing large surfaces, this method is not efficient enough and time consuming. Such products must first be diluted with (gasoline or kerosene) and applied in even layers to the area. The negative point when using this method lies in the practical impossibility of applying a uniform layer over a large surface, since other materials are often applied on top of the product. Application to narrow or small areas of space is possible just with the help of this method, since small areas cannot be treated with a spray gun;
2. Application with a spray gun. This method is well suited for application to large surfaces of the car body. Spraying occurs evenly over the area. The disadvantage of this method is the cost of the spray gun (on average, the price is about 3000 rubles).

On the video, what is the best anti-corrosion primer for cars:

Manufacturers

There are several main products on the market that are very popular:

Do-it-yourself method

The application of materials takes place in several stages:

1. First you need to remove dust and dirt from the surface to be treated. This procedure is carried out by means of a high pressure washer. After washing is completed, it is necessary after ten minutes to start applying a degreasing material (white spirit);
2. After that, depending on the area and nature of the surface, start applying it to the surface. If the primer is applied with a brush, it must be diluted before application;
3. After completion of the procedure, you should wait for some time for the surface to dry and harden.

As you know, the fundamental principle of successful painting is priming. The soil is a kind of foundation on which all further layers of paintwork, both factory and repair, are built.

Most of the mistakes made by masters at the priming stage are associated not so much with the lack of painting skills (they just come very quickly), but with a lack of knowledge about the properties of various primers, with insufficient awareness of the correct methods of working with a particular product. Like it or not, the complexity of the modern system of repair soils affects.

Indeed, every reputable manufacturer of repair materials today offers a wide range of primers. Let's try to understand this diversity and answer the question: is it always necessary to use a primer, and if so, which one to choose in each case.

Today you will know

Soil (from the German Grund - base, soil) - covering the base, an intermediate layer on which paints are applied.

Big encyclopedic dictionary

I would like to start talking about the primers used in car repair with a brief excursion to the automobile manufacturer: let's see what operations precede body painting on the conveyor and why a primer is needed at all. As they say, everything is easier to know in comparison.

Before entering the paint shop from the tin body, the car body is first of all thoroughly degreased and washed to get rid of the contaminants obtained during the rolling of steel and the manufacture of the body on the conveyor.

Then the body is sent for chemical treatment - phosphating. This procedure is carried out by immersing the body in a phosphating solution, after which a thin film of iron and zinc phosphates is formed on the metal surface, which protects the metal from corrosion and provides high adhesion both to the metal itself and to subsequent layers of the system.

Degreasing and phosphating is also mandatory for galvanized sheets, which are now increasingly used in the manufacture of bodywork and its parts.

After phosphating, the body is again washed and dried, after which a layer of water-borne primer with anti-corrosion additives is applied. Application is carried out by the method of cathodic or anodic deposition. In the first case, the process is called cataphoresis, in the second - anaphoresis.

Cataphoresis is better than anaphoresis - it provides more reliable anti-corrosion protection of welds and hidden cavities. The thickness of the cataphoretic primer layer reaches 20 microns, and the application by electrodeposition ensures the formation of a uniform coating on both horizontal and vertical surfaces, and hard-to-reach places, hidden cavities, and cracks are perfectly primed.

To date, there are practically no anaphoretic installations for painting bodies, they have all been replaced by cataphoretic ones.

Next, the cataphoretic layer undergoes high-temperature drying (180 ° C), after which another, last primer is applied to it - leveling. It performs a dual function: firstly, it fills and smoothes micro-roughnesses, creating a homogeneous substrate for enamel, and secondly, it serves as a kind of damper that protects the paint from chips and cracks. Unlike cataphoresis, the leveling primer does not protect against corrosion.

Finally, after drying and sanding, a decorative coating is applied to the primed surface.

Body at the factory (BMW 7 Series)

Conveyor technologies are the best illustration of the fact that it is impossible (at least for now) to combine anti-corrosion, leveling, shock-absorbing and decorative functions in one material at a sufficiently high level. Even the most modern car enamels will not provide a high-quality and durable result without careful surface preparation, without the formation of a reliable base for a decorative coating.

And now it's time to move on to the main topic of our conversation - repair primers.

Primers for car refinishing

Like the primers used on the conveyor, all primers for repair painting are divided into two large groups:

• primary - the so-called primers (from the English prime - main, main),
• secondary - fillers (from the English fill - fill, fill).

The materials used in repair painting differ from those used at the factory (in terms of application method, drying conditions, viscosity, surface preparation method, etc.). But the functions are exactly the same. Primary ones are needed to protect the metal from corrosion and ensure a strong adhesion of the paintwork to the surface of the part. Secondary - for leveling minor irregularities of the painted surface, creating a homogeneous substrate for enamel and protecting the paintwork from chipping.

There are primers that have the properties of both primers and fillers at the same time. Naturally, different materials are also used for applying to metal and plastic.

But first things first. Let's start with primary primers for metal.

Primary primers (primers)

The primary primer is also etching, it is also anti-corrosion, it is also adhesive. Areas of its application - areas of bare metal, places most susceptible to corrosion.

Such primers have excellent adhesion to metal, because one should not forget that in addition to the protective one, the primary primer performs another, no less important function: on it, as on a foundation, the entire repair system is built, the main requirement for which is a good adhesion of each subsequent material with the previous one. Therefore, replacing this material or eliminating it can lead to the fact that the entire system will crumble like a house of cards.

Ensuring good adhesion is only half the task that the primary primer solves. Equally important are its anti-corrosion properties.

It would seem that today, when most cars are painted using a two-layer system (base + varnish), and the varnish layer is durable and practically waterproof, anti-corrosion primer is not so necessary.

Indeed, if you paint an iron fence with modern car enamel, then the metal will remain for many, many years. But we do not paint fences, but car bodies, and the situation with them is much more complicated.

The fact is that thin steel sheets from which the bodies are made are subjected to constant alternating loads during operation, especially at the joints where mechanical stresses are maximum. And since the top layer of varnish in order to avoid abrasion and scratching must have a high hardness, sooner or later microcracks form in it, which, gradually developing deeper, reach the metal surface.

Then the matter is small: water under high capillary pressure penetrates to the metal and on a seemingly undisturbed layer of enamel, for no reason at all, an ugly red smudge appears ... And if such places are polished, rust centers up to several centimeters in size will be found.

Things are completely different when using anti-corrosion primer on bare metal. Now the development of a crack will be stopped at its boundary, since cracks do not form in the soil itself - due to its very small application thickness (about 10 microns).

But an attempt to apply a thick layer of anti-corrosion primer, on the contrary, will lead to a decrease in its strength and adhesion properties. This is just one of those cases when porridge can be thoroughly spoiled with oil. Therefore, only one thin layer, which is also not worth grinding.

Acidic

Primary primers based on polyvinyl butyral (as it sounds!) have the best combination of anti-corrosion and adhesive properties today. They can be single-component (1K), but two-component (2K) PVB primers are more often used (read what are one- and two-component coatings).

A mixture based on phosphoric acid is used as a catalyst for a chemical reaction for these soils. That is why such soils are also called acidic or acid-containing, as well as reactive (because they enter into a chemical reaction with the surface), wash primers (from the English wash - clean), phosphating, etc. (lovers of belles-lettres should be delighted).

Such primers dry quickly, have excellent adhesion to any alloys used in the automotive industry (ordinary and galvanized steel, non-ferrous metals, etc.), and perfectly protect against corrosion due to the formation of a film of insoluble phosphates on the metal surface (almost like at the factory).

The process of adhesion of acid soil to the metal surface proceeds quite aggressively, one might say, at the molecular level. Therefore, its use can be especially recommended in areas of metal with hard-to-reach places of corrosion. To some extent, the "acid" acts as a rust converter that does not require rinsing with water.

It is strictly forbidden to putty surfaces treated with acidic primers, since during the curing of polyester putty an active chemical reaction occurs that destroys the primer film. At the same time, the opposite operation, when the “acid” is applied to the hardened putty to protect the bare metal around the repair area, is possible without problems.

By the way, is it possible to do without etching anti-corrosion primers? Sometimes you can, but more on that later.

In the meantime, let's talk about the primers applied immediately after the anti-corrosion ones.

Secondary primers (fillers)

Secondary soil - it is also a filler, it is also a filler, it is also a leveler. From the name itself, the ability of these soils to fill small irregularities on the surface of the repaired elements is obvious.

The leveling function is more relevant for a car service than for a factory - after all, smooth metal is used at the factory, here in a nightmare you will not dream of such a thickness of soil that is necessary to level irregularities on surfaces covered with putty. Therefore, in a car repair shop, where you mainly have to deal with putty parts, the secondary primer becomes in the full sense of the leveler: it must hide all the pores and craters present on the putty, the risks left by abrasive processing, the transition points of coatings from one to another, etc. .d.

At the same time, the primer-filler also acts as an insulator of a heterogeneous repaired surface from aggressive solvents that are part of the cover enamels, and also provides high adhesion both to the repaired surface and to the paint. Every refinish system has a base acrylic two-component (2K) primer that solves all of these problems.

And even though some shortcomings remain on the surface after priming, but, firstly, they are not as pronounced as on the paint (due to the high density of the leveling primer) and, secondly, it is polished before painting. The large thickness of primers-levelers allows their grinding to a depth of 30-40 microns, which makes it possible to significantly improve the flatness of the repaired element. The surface is smooth, uniform and with the desired roughness - beauty!

Sanded and non-sanded

All secondary primers can be divided into two types:

• traditional sanded - designed for finishing leveling puttied areas with subsequent grinding;
• non-sanding - designed to work "wet on wet", when the entire part is primed from edge to edge and almost immediately, without grinding, a decorative coating is applied.

The latter are indispensable in preparing for painting new elements or those already in use, but not having defects (that is, unfilled). makes it possible to exclude drying and grinding of the primer-filler, and, accordingly, to reduce the time and materials spent on these operations.

The main technological characteristics of "wet" primers are, firstly, excellent spreadability: they form a very smooth surface suitable for applying enamels without preliminary grinding, and secondly, the minimum holding time before applying paint. For such materials, it is usually 15-20 minutes, after which a cover enamel can be applied to the primed surface and finally dried together with a primer.

Wet-on-wet primers are usually labeled "Wet on wet", "w/w", "non sanding", etc.

Many secondary primers, depending on the mixing ratio with the thinner, can be applied with equal success in both sanded and wet-on-wet versions.

Thick (high build)

Standard leveling primers are applied in 2-3 layers, while providing a total coating thickness in the range of 100-150 microns. In most cases, this thickness is sufficient.

For comparison, the maximum depth of the mark left by the abrasive grain of the P180 grade material is 8-10 microns.

But there are products on the market that allow you to achieve even greater thickness - up to 250-300 (!) Microns in three passes, which is commensurate only with liquid putty.

Such thick-layer primers are convenient to use in complex restoration repairs, when large areas and entire damaged parts are restored.

In such cases, the use of a "thick" primer makes it possible to completely exclude liquid putty from the technological chain, and not only with an unconditional increase in the quality of the resulting surface, but also with a significant reduction in time and labor costs: after all, before painting a part on which liquid putty is applied, its must first dry, sand the putty and prime again on top. And High Build soils do not need this.

Colored (tinted) primers

I would not want to bypass such an interesting feature of modern secondary soils as the possibility of tinting. Tinting allows, firstly, to increase the hiding power of top coats and reduce their consumption, and secondly, to obtain shades as close as possible to the factory primers, which means that the repaired part cannot be distinguished from the factory one even by chips that appear during the operation of the car. Such requirements are imposed by owners of serious, expensive cars.

In addition, when using a substrate that is close in shade to the top coat, these chips will not be so noticeable and will not cause significant damage to the appearance of the car (as, for example, when white or yellow primer is used on a dark car). This means that the repair of these chips can be postponed to a more convenient time for the owner.

Also, tinted primer can be successfully used to simulate the factory painting of the engine compartment and internal cavities. After all, the pursuit of savings has already led to the fact that many manufacturers have ceased not only to varnish the engine compartment, but also do not apply paint there at all, limiting themselves only to colored primer (the so-called under-hood coating). This is especially common among Japanese and Korean cars (for example, "Nissan" is blue metallic, and under the hood is blue matte "non-metallic"). AvtoVAZ recently also switched to a similar technology.

In this case, the primer tinted in the desired color saves us from wasting time and unnecessary consumption of materials, since without it we would first have to apply the filler primer, and then the enamel with a matting additive.

Tinting is carried out both by adding enamels or pigment pastes to the soil, and by mixing soils of different colors with each other (naturally, the soils must be from the same manufacturer).

For example, proportional mixing of white and black primers makes it possible to obtain a material of any gray shade (according to the Value Shade scale), which will help reduce the number of paint layers, which means reducing its consumption and reducing repair time.

Some manufacturers offer whole systems of colored primers. One of these is the development of Sikkens - the Colorbuild system of colored primers, which includes primers of six colors (red, blue, yellow, green, black and white). By mixing these primers, it is possible to obtain a substrate of 46 different colors without the addition of expensive tinting components of top coats.

in cans

Another interesting material is a one-component primer-leveler, available in aerosol cans. He earned special sympathy of the masters when used in the case when the ground was pierced at several points on a part already ready for painting. In this case, the aerosol primer saves a lot of time that would have to be spent on diluting the primer, filling it into the spray gun and washing after work. After that, the applied primer must also be dried.

With the help of a primer in a can, this work can be done in a minute, then the primer dries in 5-10 minutes, then light sanding - and the defect is gone.

Epoxy primers

Continuing the conversation about primers, we, as promised above, will answer the question - is it possible to do without etching primers in the painting business?

It turns out that it is possible if you use an epoxy-based primer as the primary one. Epoxy primer can also be classified as anti-corrosion materials. Only unlike acid-containing primers that protect the metal through a chemical reaction, epoxy primer provides physical protection: due to its tough and rather thick film, it reliably blocks the access of moisture and oxygen to the metal.

So these two soils perform their protective functions, albeit in different ways, but equally well. What then are the advantages of epoxy primer over acid primers? When and why to use it?

As you know, the usual anti-corrosion primer can only be applied on top of the putty, but not under it. But in this case, it turns out that the metal will be protected only around the putty area, and there will be no additional protection under the putty itself.

And then it is enough to have microcracks in the metal, as water, due to capillary effects, tends to get under the putty layer from the inside. And since putty is hygroscopic, absorbing this moisture, it begins to swell, and a freshly painted car will soon literally bloom with ugly bubbles, the size of which can exceed the diameter of a five-ruble coin. That's already painted so painted!

How to protect the putty from moisture entering from the inside? This is where epoxy primer comes to the rescue: first, a layer of epoxy primer is applied to the metal, and putty work is already carried out on it.

Epoxy primer is the only anti-corrosion material that can be applied under polyester putty - no more bubbles! This technology is used in top quality painting systems and allows you to bring the warranty on painted elements to seven years or more!

Epoxy primers not only have excellent adhesion to a wide variety of surfaces (galvanized, galvanized steel, aluminum and all its alloys, stainless steel, fiberglass), they are also a good substrate for top coats (due to their good filling properties and good spreadability). Therefore, you can cover the putty areas with a couple more layers of epoxy - and after grinding the part is ready for painting. Note that this is not the only possible option in this case, read about the rest in the article on priming.

Liquid putty is also recommended to be applied specifically to the epoxy primer and topped off with another layer of epoxy primer - like a sandwich. Also, this primer works well on fiberglass, and also as an insulator of old problematic coatings.

And if you treat the edges and ends of the elements with this primer, you can forget about chips and undermining of paint in these places, as well as their premature corrosion. After all, it is the ends of the doors that often rust faster than the rest of the surface. This happens because modern coatings to increase decorative properties (reduce shagreen) have a high surface tension coefficient, which leads to stretching of the paint on the edges and ends of the elements with a corresponding decrease in its thickness.

It is not advisable to use two different anti-corrosion primers during the repair process on one element. At the same time, most manufacturers categorically prohibit applying epoxy primer over acidic.

However, these soils also have some disadvantages due to their very properties - increased strength and toughness. Because of this, epoxy primers are more difficult to process than conventional fillers. Also, epoxy primer can sometimes cause contouring during stain repairs - again, due to its increased rigidity.

Yes, and the maximum thickness of their application is much lower than that of acrylic primers, which requires a very high quality of surface treatment of parts, which is not achievable in every "paint brush". Therefore, epoxy primer performs best when used as a primary primer, followed by the application of a filler primer.

Insulating primers of incompatible coatings (sealers)

When restoring repairs, in most cases we have to deal with already painted parts, including those that have previously been repaired, perhaps more than once. And here the question arises about the compatibility of the old and new coatings, since the origin of the materials of the old repair coating is unknown to us. And although no one has been painting with nitro enamels for a hundred years, as, indeed, with cheap repair "Cadolins", in car repair practice there can still be coatings that, by their properties, belong to thermoplastic materials (soften when heated or in contact with solvents).

To isolate such coatings, there are so-called insulating primers or sealers (from the English seal - to seal, isolate). They will help to play it safe and avoid problems associated with the conflict of the old and new coatings (swelling, loss of adhesion, contouring).

To check the coating for thermoplasticity before starting work on "used" parts, it is enough to carry out one simple test. Take a rag soaked in solvent and leave it on the old coating or where the paint is damaged. If after a couple of minutes the coating has softened (the nail leaves traces on it), then it should be removed or isolated.

In many systems, primers that are intended for wet-on-wet painting have the properties of insulators. Some of them are transparent and can be tinted, they can be used both as substrates directly under the enamel, and with the subsequent application of a filler.

As already mentioned, epoxy primer is also an excellent insulator for old coatings.

Adhesion primers for plastics

Drawing parallels with anti-corrosion primers applied to metal and creating strong adhesive bonds with it, in the case of painting plastic parts, special adhesive primers for plastic are used for these purposes.

Such a primer is usually a very liquid transparent substance with small additions of "silver" (to control application). The layer thickness is minimal - only a few microns. Basically, these are ready-to-use one-component materials.

As a rule, such primers are universal and applicable, if not to all, then to most types of plastic used in the automotive industry. You can specify this in the instructions for the product, and you can find out the type of plastic from which the part is made by marking on its inside.

Most often, this is a plastic of the polypropylene group, always referred to as PP in the first letters. For example: >PP/EPDMC<, >PP/PD< и т.п. Можно с уверенностью утверждать, что около 80% всех пластиковых деталей автомобиля (бампера, капоты, крылья, детали салона) выполнены из пластмассы этого типа. Использование праймера по пластику на таких деталях носит обязательный характер.

New original plastic parts may already be primed. Such parts do not need re-priming.

The spectrum of all soils is of course not limited to these materials. To consider all their types and subspecies within the framework of the article is probably an unrealistic task. But what has been said is enough to understand how flexible and versatile the system of modern repair primers is - with their help you can solve any problem facing the painter.

Epoxy primer for cars has recently become quite a popular substance and is used as an anti-corrosion coating. This type of soil is used to process not only vehicles, but also other large items.

What types of this substance are, why it is generally needed, and how to use it correctly for a vehicle - we will talk about this later.

What is epoxy primer

Epoxy-based primer belongs to the class of paint and varnish coatings of a two-component composition, designed to protect metal coatings from corrosion. They are produced in metal cans of various capacities or in the form of an aerosol. The last type of substance differs from the canned variety only in the way it is applied.

Anticorrosive epoxy primer Ranal EP

Epoxy primer: properties, advantages, disadvantages

Epoxy primer for metal for cars, in fact, is a multifunctional substance, but the main function is to protect the surface from corrosion and improve adhesion.

In addition, this type of substance is often used as a thermoplastic insulator. Such qualities are provided due to the composition - special chemicals and epoxy resins.

Automotive epoxy primer has both advantages and disadvantages. Of the positive qualities, the following can be distinguished:

• resistance to external mechanical damage;
• does not pass water;
• provides excellent adhesion;
• plastic and durable;
• heat-resistant;
• durable;
• layers lay down evenly and dry quickly;
• environmental friendliness - despite the fact that the composition includes a huge number of chemical elements, the substance does not pose a danger to the environment and human health. But you should still take precautions when working with the substance.

Automotive epoxy primer Reoflex 0.8 l + hardener 0.2 l

There are also negative sides:

• the epoxy base dries for a long time - at a temperature of about 20 degrees, it will take at least 12 hours to completely dry;
• high-temperature drying should not be used - as bubbles and cracks form on the surface, which will make further high-quality painting impossible.

Therefore, epoxy primer for metal can only be used if there is time in stock.

Classification

There are quite a few varieties of such a substance - each manufacturer produces several subspecies. In general, epoxy primer for metal is divided into two types:

• one-component - the composition of such a primer does not include a hardener, which adds one, but a significant minus to them - too long drying;
• two- or multi-component - the composition includes high quality hardeners, so the drying process is much faster - about 12 hours. In addition, excellent value for money.

The primer is available in metal cans and in the form of an aerosol.

Epoxy primer in a can

Scope of use

Painting with epoxy primer is in demand not only when working with a vehicle - this type of substance can be used to cover other overall, but only metal objects.

Important! Do not confuse primer for concrete work with the one used for metal work. These are completely different means in composition, and the result of the work can be unpredictable, not in the positive sense of the word.

In general, "epoxy" can be used in the following cases:

• on top of the "bare" metal - it can be either steel or aluminum;
• over a mixed surface - with putty;
• as a final insulating layer;
• as a means of improving the resistance of the surface to mechanical damage;
• application on fiberglass parts, but only as a first layer.

In any case, before starting surface treatment, you need to carefully read the instructions and make sure that this particular type of primer is suitable for a particular type of surface.

Epoxy primer for metal SG 34

Surface for epoxy primer

Before processing, you should properly prepare the surface - so epoxy primer for cars lays down much better. The algorithm of work is approximately the following:

• clean the body from the old paintwork and rust using a sandblaster or grinder;
• if necessary, carry out mechanical straightening;
• degrease the surface;
• treat the surface with anti-corrosion agents;
• defects must be puttied;
• after the putty dries, sand the surface.

Important - when working with a substance, safety measures must be observed. The primer must be used strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Do not allow the formation of drafts and dust in the room.

Features of the use of aerosol

Epoxy primer in the form of an aerosol is used as an anti-corrosion coating, it should be used on such surfaces:

• galvanized;
• from black metal;
• light alloy.

Let's apply also as a basis under various enamels.

Epoxy primer spray

Important! The following types of enamels are incompatible with this type of epoxy primer:

• alkyd-acrylic;
• alkyd-urethane;
• polyvinyl chloride.

It is better to use soil in such a container to eliminate small defects.

The surface must be prepared according to the algorithm described above. The further work algorithm is as follows:

• shake the bottle well;
• spraying should be carried out at an angle of 90 degrees;
• the balloon dispenser should be at a distance of 20-30 cm from the treated surface;
• it is necessary to apply the substance in 2-3 layers with a time interval of 25-30 minutes;
• spray the primer smoothly, without stopping in one place.

Important! Use protective equipment during work (respirator, gloves).

Primer for car

In order for the surface to be processed correctly and efficiently, you should choose the right type of soil. There are many of them on the market, we will highlight the popular ones:

• acrylic - used not only for metal, but also for plastic, wood. Excellent resistance to temperature changes, moisture and other negative impact factors;
• anti-corrosion - not only protects the surface from corrosion, but also improves the adhesion of the paint to the surface;
• strengthening - used to eliminate various kinds of defects, it is also characterized by high adhesion rates;
• acidic for metal - "corrodes" a thin layer of metal to improve the adhesion of paint to the surface.

An epoxy-type primer is advantageous to use, since it combines several functions at once.

How to prime a car body

If it is supposed to work with small defects, a spray can is quite suitable. The primer in a metal can must first be mixed with a solvent and, if necessary, with a hardener. The latter is needed if a single-component tool type is used.

The substance must be thoroughly mixed until smooth. The hardener must be added in stages - depending on the number of layers applied.

Car body primer

It is necessary to dilute the composition strictly as it is written in the instructions. You need to apply the substance with a roller or brush, you can also use an airbrush. The primer is applied with a brush or roller, taking into account the following rules:

• the first layer is very thin;
• after 15 minutes, you can apply the second, and after another 15 minutes the third layer. Without reference to the time interval - you can apply a new layer when the previous one becomes matte;
• you need to apply the substance smoothly, but not lingering for a long time in one place;
• avoid abrupt transitions and gaps.

Using a spray gun, primer should be carried out as follows:

• the first layer should be thin and even, so the distance from the surface to the sprayer should be 20–30 cm;
• in order for the substance to be evenly distributed over the surface, the movements must be cross.

With this technology of applying the substance, there may be smudges and other minor defects, which are easily removed by grinding before painting.

In the room where the priming of the surface of the car is carried out, there should be no dust, drafts and dirt. It is better if the lighting is daytime spectrum, moderate brightness.

Car primer before painting

If it is planned to prime not all cars, but only certain parts, “non-working” areas must be covered with a film and masking tape. Be sure to also close the windows and headlights.

Important! Do not forget about personal protective equipment during work!

Epoxy primers of different brands

Unequivocally answer the question: "epoxy primer, which is better?" - it is forbidden. There are quite a lot of products of this kind on the market, we will highlight the most famous brands:

• Duxon;
• BODY 989;
• Profix;
• Novol Protect;
• Ranal;
• App 2K Grund EP.

It is better to purchase the product at certified points of sale, so as not to receive a low-quality product.

Conclusion

The epoxy type of primer has become one of the most sought after products in the automotive industry for good reason, as it is a multifunctional body protection agent. Subject to compliance with safety regulations and the sequence of work, you can process the car body yourself.

Proper preparation of the car for painting is the key to an attractive appearance and long life of the paintwork. Applying a primer to metal and plastic elements of a car body is a mandatory step, which is intended for planned anti-corrosion protection and increasing the adhesion of car enamel to metal or putty.

A huge selection of primers allows the motorist to choose the best option in accordance with the specifics of the work performed, quality requirements and financial capabilities. The most popular is acrylic primer.

Features and Benefits of Acrylic Primer

Automotive primer is applied before the final paintwork, it is used to protect the metal from the possible appearance of rust and improve the adhesion of the enamel to the painted element of the car body. The primer composition, when applied after putty, fills all the irregularities well and increases the strength of the finish coating to mechanical stress (the appearance of chips and scratches).

Acrylic primer belongs to the category of fillers (fillers), used primarily to level the treated surface. It is made on the basis of acrylic, so it can be used for processing not only metal, but also plastic car body elements.

Its main functional tasks are:

filling irregularities (micropores, scratches and scratches);

leveling the surface before applying car enamel;

extending the service life and durability of the paintwork by improving its adhesion to enamel;

anti-corrosion protection of body elements, increasing their resistance to adverse external factors (precipitation, high humidity, etc.).

The main operational characteristics of acrylic primer, which determine its wide demand, are resistance to temperature extremes, long service life, resistance to atmospheric precipitation and high humidity. Acrylic-based primer is universal, therefore it is used in all types of body repairs.

Acrylic primer is available in several colors - black, white and gray. The choice of primer color is carried out taking into account the intended shade of the enamel. When painting a car, a primer is selected that will require fewer overlapping layers, which ensures paint savings.

Note! Automotive acrylic primer can be applied to body parts and car elements after primary acid or epoxy primer, since the composition does not contain acid neutralizing substances.

Types and differences of acrylic primers

Depending on the composition, characteristics and purpose, acrylic primer for cars can be of the following types:

• one-component;
• two-component;
• anti-corrosion;
• for plastic parts.

One-component primer composition does not require prior preparation before use. Its main task is to increase the adhesion of car enamel and car body, a primer is applied in a very thin layer.

Two-component acrylic primer must be mixed with a solvent before use. The primer is applied to metal elements and body parts in a thick layer for preliminary leveling (eliminating scratches, bumps, microdamages) before applying the final paintwork. When using a two-component composition, it is necessary to select a solvent of the same brand.

The anti-corrosion composition belongs to the category of secondary primers, it is applied on a layer of a two-component primer. To provide more reliable protection against rust (for example, when operating a car in a humid climate), it is better to use special anti-corrosion agents.

The primer for plastic elements of the car body is characterized by higher adhesion and elasticity, which guarantees reliable protection of the applied primer and top coat from cracking.

Features of applying soil

One-component acrylic primer is produced by modern manufacturers in metal cans or cans. The application of the primer composition is carried out using a conventional paint brush, roller or air gun / sprayer. The aerosol spray method is used when performing professional or independent local repairs.

A two-component auto primer requires mixing with a thinner and a hardener in accordance with the instructions offered by the manufacturer. After preparation, the primer must be used within 30-60 minutes, otherwise it will lose its performance properties and characteristics. Careful drying of the primer layer will avoid the appearance of corrosion of the metal in the future.

When using an airbrush for priming a car body, all work is carried out in a special chamber with a functioning ventilation system, which will ensure the perfect quality of the coating. During the subsequent grinding, the primer is applied to the body in several layers.

Note! The thickness of the applied acrylic primer layer should be between 50 and 100 µN.

It takes 3 to 8 hours for the acrylic primer to dry completely. The final step in preparing the car body for painting is grinding, which is done manually with sandpaper or using a special machine with abrasive nozzles (with a gradual decrease in the degree of graininess).

The use of acrylic primer in the process of preparing a car for painting allows you to maintain an attractive and flawless appearance of the body for a long time, as well as protect it from the appearance of rust pockets. The versatility of the acrylic-based primer and ease of use make it widely used in all types of body repairs.

To dilute the two-component primer before use, you can purchase on our website!

Before painting a car, its surface must be properly prepared. The final stage of preparation, which connects all the previous steps with staining, is the priming process.

The application of a primer can pose various tasks - depending on their specifics, one or another composition is selected. One of the most common types of primer for cars is acrylic.

Acrylic primer-filler PYRAMID HS 5:1 (0.8 l) + hardener

Definition and Characteristics of Acrylic Primer

As the name implies, acrylic primer for cars is made on an acrylic basis. It can be used on both metal and plastic surfaces. The primer is applied immediately before painting the car.

In this case, as a rule, the following tasks are set:

• final leveling of the surface before painting;
• filling scratches, micropores and irregularities;
• formation of adhesion between the surface and the paintwork;
• protection of metal from the occurrence of foci of corrosion.

Acrylic pore-filling 2-K primer for cars

On the primed surface, the paint lays down in an even layer. Provides good adhesion to metal. The coating is durable and resistant.

If we talk about the characteristics of an acrylic primer, we can name the following factors:

• heat resistance;
• resistance to atmospheric influences;
• moisture resistance;
• durability.

As mentioned above, acrylic primer for cars is the most versatile. Therefore, it is the most widely used compared to other existing varieties.

Acrylic primer 5+1 HS Red Car MAX POD, gray + hardener

Varieties

Acrylic primer for cars in its composition is of the following types:

• one-component;
• two-component;
• anti-corrosion;
• for plastic.

The first type consists of one component - it serves as a means of improving adhesion between the car paintwork and the surface to be painted. Such a tool is applied in a very thin layer and, in fact, performs only the role of an intermediary.

A two-component automotive primer requires preliminary preparation - it is mixed with a solvent. This composition is applied in a thicker layer and serves to finish the surface for painting a car and to fill small pores, scratches and bumps after preliminary grinding.

Two component acrylic primer

The anti-corrosion compound is applied in a thin layer under the two-component mixture. It provides planned protection of the metal from the occurrence of foci of corrosion. If there is reason to believe that the environment will intensively contribute to the occurrence of rust, it is better to use special anti-corrosion agents.

The primer for plastic has very high rates of plasticity and adhesion. This guarantees protection against premature cracking.

There are soils of different colors:

• grey;
• white;
• black.

Acrylic primer - gray

When painting cars, they choose which color will require fewer layers when painting, in order to reduce paint consumption and, accordingly, save money.

The industry produces acrylic primers for cars in metal cans. For application to the surface, you can use a brush, roller or air gun. The latter is good for treating large areas - it provides the best performance.

A single-component composition can be in a metal can - in this case it is sprayed in an aerosol way. It is logical that the aerosol method is difficult to apply if it is necessary to cover a large surface area with the agent. It is more suitable for local use and handling small defects.

Aerosol 1K acrylic primer, black Reoflex (520ml)

How to use acrylic primer

A two-component product requires dilution with an acrylic thinner and the addition of a hardener. The proportions for the shares of each component can be found in the instructions - for different brands they may differ.

The prepared product must be used over a time period of 30 to 60 minutes - then it begins to lose its suitability.