How to independently insulate a frame house from the outside. Insulation of a frame house with mineral wool How to insulate a frame house correctly and reliably

The question of how to insulate a frame house, in those countries where this technology came from, is usually not worth it - it is believed that it is sufficiently insulated at the construction level. Our winters are very severe - in the central part of the country the frosts are much stronger than at the same latitude in Europe or North America, so even frame houses have to be insulated, the design of which initially provides for a layer of insulation.

Another layer of insulation for our climate will not be “superfluous” Source fasad-exp.ru

The choice of frame house insulation

Before insulating a frame house from the outside, you need to find out what heat-insulating materials were used inside the walls. And already focusing on their properties, choose a warming scheme. Such a dependence is determined at the level of standards, which expressly states that the materials and external insulation scheme should not create conditions for the wall itself to get wet. What does this mean?

It is estimated that during the day, during the life of one person, up to 4 liters of water evaporates in the room: cooking, washing, hygiene, wet cleaning, pets and indoor plants. The main part should be weathered due to ventilation, but the other part of the moisture will penetrate into the building envelope.

The standard wall scheme is a frame sheathed with thin-sheet materials on both sides, between which it is located to insulate. And so that it does not get wet, it is protected from the inside with a vapor-tight membrane, from the outside - with a windproof and waterproofing film that can “let through” water vapor.

Standard scheme of the facade of a frame house Source stroyfora.ru

If you use thermal insulation outside with a vapor permeability lower than that of the main insulation, then the process of diffusion (removal) of water vapor to the street will be disrupted.

Three types of materials are used in the construction of the wall of a frame house:

expanded polystyrene;
polyurethane foam (mainly in SIP panels);
mineral wool.

Polymer heaters have approximately the same vapor permeability, and it is low.

Note. The exception is PVC foam, but this is an expensive insulation that is used to insulate the hulls of yachts and other small elite class ships.

If the frame house is insulated with mineral wool, the scheme should take into account the fact that this is a "breathable" material, but hygroscopic. The latter property is compensated by the fact that the fibrous structure (unlike the cellular one) releases moisture just as easily as it absorbs it. Subject to its free weathering.

If expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam is laid inside the wall, then the frame house can be insulated from the outside with any material.
If there is mineral wool inside, then only it can stand outside. Alternatively, ecowool or open-cell spray foam, which have approximately the same vapor permeability.

It is desirable to insulate the frame house outside and inside Source k-dom74.ru

Properties, advantages and disadvantages of heaters

Each type of insulation has a certain "set" of properties that affect the choice. Permeability has been discussed above. It is worth focusing on other qualities and differences.

Density

What density of insulation for the walls of a frame house, in addition to direct thermal insulation, also affects the method of attachment. When using insulation with fastening sheets or mats inside the frame (battens), there are no strict requirements for strength.

stone wool. If we are talking about stone wool, then it should not be too loose - so that it does not slip or wrinkle in a vertical structure. In ventilated facades, its density can start from 50 kg/m³.

When choosing the “wet” facade technology with a thin layer of light plaster, mineral wool must have a density of at least 85 kg/m³. For heavy plaster - from 125 kg/m³.

Note. The division of plaster is rather conditional. Light are considered up to 1500 kg / m³, heavy - over.

If we take into account that the density of cement is 1100-1300 kg/m³, and that of acrylic polymers is about 1200 kg/m³, then the main factor influencing the "gravity" is fillers. For decorative facade plaster, coarse quartz sand, screenings and stone chips are usually used, which provide higher mechanical strength, but increase the specific gravity. Therefore, most of its species are heavy.

With the choice of the density of polystyrene foam is a little easier. For external insulation, it is used either according to the “wet” facade scheme, or as part of thermal panels. And here we are usually talking about PSB-S-25 or PSB-S-35. The second option is preferable - stronger, with almost the same thermal conductivity.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Extruded polystyrene foam, used for facade insulation, has a density of 35 kg / m³. But due to the cellular structure with a monolithic "skeleton" (rather than glued together from individual microcapsules), its strength is much higher than that of conventional PSP-S-35 foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam is not susceptible to water Source remontik.org

PPU (polyurethane foam). There are two types of spray foam: open-cell and closed-cell.

Open cell PPU refers to light insulation (9-11 kg / m³). By properties, it is similar to mineral wool: high vapor permeability and almost the same coefficient of thermal conductivity. It can only be used when spraying between frame or batten elements, followed by paneling. But it is more expensive than mineral wool.

Closed cell spray foam for facade insulation has a density of 28-32 kg / m³. It is already able to withstand a layer of finishing plaster and has the lowest thermal conductivity among all types of insulation.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Thermal conductivity

The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the thermal insulation properties of the material. For calculations, coefficients fixed at the level of standards are used. Although manufacturers often indicate the characteristics that they obtained during laboratory tests, they always differ for the better. However, when calculating according to standard indicators, you can be sure that it will not get worse.

Comparison of thermal conductivity of different materials Source realsroier.ru

Both two-component and one-component polyurethane foam are considered the best thermal insulation materials. According to some sources, their thermal conductivity is not higher, and sometimes lower than that of dry air - 0.02–0.023 W/m*deg. Expanded polystyrene heaters have the same coefficient in the range of 0.031–0.38, and mineral wool - 0.048–0.07.

Other characteristics influencing the choice

Water absorption indicates the material's tendency to get wet. The best performance here is for extruded polystyrene foam and closed-cell sprayed polyurethane foam - about 2%.

Expanded polystyrene is next on the list - up to 4%.

Mineral wool (including stone wool) - up to 70%. Ecowool when wet can increase its weight several times. But after drying, they restore their thermal insulation properties.

Video description

Which thermal insulation is better: based on stone wool or fiberglass, discussed in the video:

If we talk about the cost of insulation, then the most expensive technologies are spraying with ecowool and polyurethane foam. "In the middle" - hinged facades with stone wool. Then - insulation with EPPS. And the most accessible view is the "wet facade" with polystyrene foam.

It would seem that the insulation of a frame house with foam plastic outside and inside the walls should be the most popular technology - low cost and water absorption with high thermal insulation properties.

For brick and monolithic houses, this is indeed the most common material. And the scheme for insulating the walls of a frame house, like a wooden one, should first of all take into account the fire safety of materials and their environmental properties.

Styrofoam insulation is incredibly popular Source lineyka.net

When the polymer insulation is “surrounded” on all sides by non-combustible materials (brick, concrete, building blocks, plaster), and it itself is classified as low-flammable and self-extinguishing, then such insulation is safe for residents. But if the supporting structure of the house is made of wood, the foam is dangerous - in case of fire, it begins to melt and release life-threatening suffocating gases.

Therefore, for internal insulation of frame walls, non-combustible mineral wool is more often chosen, and as a result of the requirements for the vapor permeability of materials, it is also used outside.

Insulation of a frame house from the outside with mineral wool

Of the three types of mineral wool, stone (basalt) wool is used to insulate residential buildings. When working with glass, quite a lot of microscopic fragments of fiberglass are formed, which are dangerous for the respiratory organs of workers during the installation of insulation and residents for the first time after settling in the house. Slag wool is not recommended for use because of its low environmental qualities.

Scheme of wall insulation of a frame house with an additional outer layer Source stroyfora.ru

With external insulation with mineral wool, the technology of a ventilated facade is somewhat different from the usual scheme. For a house made of bricks, building blocks, logs or timber, the crate is attached to the wall. A frame house does not have a wall as such in the usual sense. What is the point of sewing up the frame outside the OSB with a slab, and for the next layer of insulation, attach the crate on top if it can be immediately mounted on the supporting racks.

This is also justified by the fact that the vapor permeability of a “fresh” OSB board is lower than that of stone wool. Therefore, ideally, the “pie” of the correct insulation of a frame house with mineral wool looks like this:

interior decoration (with crate for panels);
vapor-tight membrane;
frame with insulation;
crate for the outer layer of mineral wool;
windproof vapor permeable membrane:
counter-lattice to create a ventilated gap;
facade cladding and finishing.

Outside insulation with polymeric materials

With the technology of building frame houses from SIP panels, at the stage of factory production, foam plastic is laid as an internal insulation - expanded polystyrene or rigid polyurethane foam.

It looks like a prefabricated sandwich panel Source superdom.ua

In addition, the usual technology of assembling a "sandwich" on site allows the use of polymer insulation in the form of plates or sprayed liquid polyurethane.

Application of polyurethane foam as an internal insulation of a frame house Source pinterest.es

In both cases, the wall has a "finished" structure with double-sided sheathing with thin-sheet materials. And it is possible to insulate the frame house with foam plastic from the outside using the “wet facade” technology.

A horizontal level is beaten off along the base, along which the starting bar is attached.
With the help of glue, the first row of foam boards is fixed.
The second row is fixed with an offset of at least 20 cm relative to the first.

So it is impossible to mount EPS. Intersecting horizontal and vertical seams are the cause of cracks in facade plaster. Source es.decorexpro.com

The corners of the openings should not be at the seams and at the intersections of the seams.
Each sheet is additionally fixed with plastic dish-shaped dowels, 5 pieces per sheet.

Plastic dowel does not form a "cold bridge" Source kronshtein.by

A layer of adhesive solution 3 mm thick is applied to the foam, a reinforcing mesh is attached to it and covered with another layer of glue.
Carry out finishing with plaster.

Another way to use foam for external insulation of a frame house is thermal panels with clinker tiles.

Thermal panels - insulation plus brick finish Source pro-uteplenie.ru

Sprayed thermal insulation

To some extent, this technology resembles the application of plaster on lighthouses - vertical slats are stuffed on the walls, between which polyurethane foam or ecowool is sprayed.

Frame house, insulated on the outside with polyurethane foam, ready for facade finishing Source mirstrojka.ru

After the PPU "hardens", its excess is cut off with a special manual electric cutter or electric saw. From above, you can either install facade panels, or apply a layer of decorative plaster.

Video description

You can get acquainted with the technique of cutting excess PPU with an electric saw in the video material:

When insulating the frame walls with ecowool, it is sewn up with panels.

Conclusion

Technically, it is not difficult to perform the insulation of a frame house. If you do not consider the option of insulation with sprayed thermal insulation, then this does not require any special equipment. But in each case, it is necessary to carefully calculate the density of the insulation for the walls of a frame house, plus, there are always some technological “nuances” that you need to know - otherwise the result will not give the expected effect. Therefore, it is better to have professionals do the home insulation.

A frame house is the dream of many people who want to get the perfect home of their own. However, in practice, building such a building is still half the battle, because you also need to turn it into a cozy space in which there is a feeling of comfort at any time of the year.

Everyone dreams of a warm home. After all, no matter how beautiful your home is, with the advent of the first cold weather, you will acutely feel the need for thermal insulation. And in particular this applies to frame houses, where the insulation is mounted directly into the walls. In this article, we will look at how to insulate the walls of a frame house and how to do it to achieve the best result.

We warm the frame house

Thermal insulation of frame houses is a very responsible task, because in this case you have hollow walls, and therefore the choice of insulation fundamentally decides how comfortable your home will be in the winter months. Therefore, not “how”, but “the better to insulate frame walls” is the first question that should be of interest to any owner.

The choice of insulation

All insulating materials by and large can be divided into two categories:

organic, which include traditional insulation in the form of chips, tyrsy, tow, etc. Some of these materials are used to this day, but are used mainly in traditional housing construction, using timber and logs as the main material.
Inorganic, which include heat insulators such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam and polystyrene. Naturally, these materials are more modern and fit perfectly for frame houses. Let's consider them in more detail:

Styrofoam. Historically, foam plastic is the most popular insulating material for frame houses. Of its merits, the following should be noted:

Lightweight panels.
Low price.
The ability to insulate the walls with your own hands.
Polyfoam practically does not absorb moisture.

Foam Disadvantages:

Flammability. When burned, it produces toxic black smoke.
The fragility of the sheets, which often have cracks, so when buying, you should carefully examine each sheet.
Relative fragility. The service life of the foam is 10-20 years.

Mineral wool. Recently it is the most popular heater. It is produced both in the form of a light fibrous substance and in the form of dense slabs. It has such positive properties:

The air gaps between the fibers provide the material with high thermal insulation properties.
Good sound absorbing qualities.
Ease of installation.
Durability (service life is several times higher than that of polystyrene).

The disadvantages are as follows:

Fear of excess moisture. Even with a slight wetting (2-3%), the thermal insulation properties of this material can be halved. Therefore, this insulation should be combined with waterproofing materials.

It boasts better characteristics than mineral wool. The specific gravity of this material is several times less, while the waterproof properties are very high.

Unlike foam, expanded polystyrene has fire resistance, resistance to chemical corrosion and high mechanical strength. Its service life is very long and exceeds the mark of 50 years.

It consists of 81% cellulose, and therefore, according to its characteristics, it is very similar to wood. At the same time, it does not rot, resists fire and is absolutely non-toxic.

The disadvantages of ecowool include the need for special equipment for performing insulation work.

Carrying out insulation work

Having figured out how frame houses are insulated, we proceed directly to thermal insulation. The methods of insulation depend both on the chosen heat insulator and the features of the building itself. We will look at the most common options.

We warm the wooden frame house

Wooden houses are known for their fickleness, and frame houses even more so. In the corners between the boards, cracks are often formed through which cold air freely penetrates into the room. Therefore, before warming it is necessary to make a thorough inspection of the walls from the inside.

First of all, you need to identify the places from which it blows. Such gaps can simply be filled with mounting foam, which is often used to seal joints, and the loggia can be insulated at all using foam as the main insulation. If necessary, remove the interior trim.

Insulation installation

Insulated wall of a frame house "in section".

Insulation should be laid between the inner and outer wall cladding. We should not forget about protecting the heat insulator from moisture, which can accumulate inside the frame, which contributes to the occurrence of mold and microbes. Therefore, a special vapor barrier film should be installed from the inside, and a waterproofing layer is required from the outside.

The process of insulating frame walls is very similar to the thermal insulation of pitched roofs, only instead of a log there is a frame.

Instructions for the behavior of thermal insulation provides for the following steps:

From the inside, we stuff cross-beams onto the frame in increments of 30-40 cm. We will mount insulation on them.

Advice! The crate should be treated with special compounds that will protect the tree from moisture and pests.

In quality, since this material is excellent for insulating frame houses. From the outside, we lay the insulation plates and fix them on the crate.

The photo shows the process of installing insulation boards in the frame of the house.

Advice! There should be no gaps between the insulation boards! If there are gaps, then they should be sealed with mounting foam!

Now you need to install waterproofing. As mentioned above, mineral wool reacts very poorly to moisture, and therefore it is necessary to isolate the insulation as reliably as possible. To do this, we mount a waterproofing membrane from the outside. Any waterproofing material is suitable for this.

Advice! Penofol can be used as waterproofing. This material is a heater, and therefore the thermal insulation of your home will be more reliable.

A gap of 5 cm should be maintained between the waterproofing and the insulation layer.

Next, you should create ventilation for the facade. To do this, we fill the bars along the frame over the membrane, which have a cross section of 25 by 50 cm.
We fill boards across these bars, forming a crate. Remember that all wooden elements should be treated with special protective compounds. Otherwise, such a frame will quickly become unusable.
We attach sheets of facing material to the crate. Siding panels are the best choice. This material is durable, unpretentious in operation and has excellent appearance.
Now let's move on to the interior. A vapor barrier should be installed on the inside. It is needed in order to protect the insulation from moisture penetrating from the inside of the building. The level of humidity in warm living quarters is always high, and therefore such measures are justified.

As a vapor barrier, you can use the same, or purchase a specially designed material. We fill the vapor barrier on the frame so that the foil layer looks inside the room.

Walls covered with foam

On top of the vapor barrier, you need to install the interior lining of the room. It is best to use drywall for this - this material is easy to use, has a low cost and reliability.

Conclusion

Insulation of a frame house is a very serious and responsible process. Since the walls of such a house are hollow, the laying of high-quality insulation in this case is more important than ever.

But it is not enough to choose a good thermal insulation material - you also need to be able to use it correctly, creating warmth and comfort in your home. After all, if you carry out heat-insulating work of poor quality, then with the advent of the first cold weather, the results will make themselves felt.

In this article, you learned the best way to insulate a frame house and how to insulate it in order to achieve the best results. As you can see, there are no particular difficulties in carrying out these works, and you can easily carry out insulation work on your own, without involving specialists in this process. This will allow you to significantly save the family budget, because the services of masters are not cheap.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order for the insulation of a frame house. The client undertook the independent construction of this building, however, in the process of work, he decided to immediately adapt a country dwelling for year-round living. He did not know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think that any novice builder may encounter a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to heat-insulate the facade, floor and attic of a country cottage built using frame technology.

Choosing a place for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the heat-insulating layer - from the outside or from the inside. I prefer external insulation, however, in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two options mentioned. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision on your own.

outdoor	internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation pie will be placed on the outside of the dwelling, so the interior of the rooms does not suffer during construction work.	With internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishes of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, perform a fine finish from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the moisture condensation point inside the wall, as a result of which the building envelope is moistened, which significantly reduces its service life.
The wooden wall, which is in direct contact with the warm air in the room, accumulates thermal energy, and when the air temperature drops outside, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous cycles of freezing and thawing, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, internal thermal insulation can be resorted to only when insulating a very old house: the insulation material installed from the inside will allow you to avoid dismantling the exterior finish, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. I have encountered situations several times when even proper internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter colds. And I had to install an additional one - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let's figure out the better it is to perform thermal insulation of a frame house from the outside.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Given the specifics of a wooden house built using frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select a heater taking into account the following requirements:

The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds dangerous to humans into the air, even if it is heated during operation.
The material must have fire-fighting properties - they will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also desirable to select a heater that does not emit a large amount of smoke during a fire, making it difficult for people to evacuate.
It is better to choose a heater with the lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. The optimal thickness is no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the beam, usually used to construct the frame).
Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame must fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
Ease of installation. To simplify the process of building a frame house, you need to buy a heater that is easily installed inside the frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is the price. Considering the total estimated cost of building a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select a heater that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put the price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I will reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W / (m * K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal engineering calculations show that for central Russia, an energy-efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Incombustibility	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins used to glue the mats have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture to the outside.
light weight	After installation, the insulation practically does not exert additional load on the building envelope, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats of suitable size are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without the need for additional battens, fittings and the use of "wet" construction processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. I use TechnoNICOL or Rockwool products for work.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the house outside and inside.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we decided that it would be basalt fiber), you will need a lot of different materials:

OSB boards for interior and exterior cladding of the supporting frame of the walls of the dwelling;
wooden bars 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the decorative finish;
hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use a foil insulation based on polyethylene foam (for example, penofol) to increase the efficiency of heating devices;
block house, with the help of which external decorative finishing of frame walls will be performed;
eurolining, with which I will sheathe the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I will not dwell on what tools to use. You will understand in the process of further presentation.

Warming process

Now I’m telling you how to insulate a frame house for winter living. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for warming a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I must say right away that in my case the frame of the dwelling has already been erected, but the interior lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the dwelling for installation inside the heat-insulating material. I do it in this order:

I clean wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden by facing materials, so pollution can adversely affect the integrity of the structure, the efficiency and duration of operation of the insulation layer. You can clean the wood with a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

I repair damaged parts of the frame. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I was insulating a new house during the construction process. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the heat-insulating material.

I install engineering communications. If a hidden laying of engineering systems is supposed, then it is better to do this before the walls are sewn with decorative material. There are a few features I would like to mention:

All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable ducts that protect the insulation layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
When installing water pipes inside the wall, there should be no detachable connections that can loosen and leak over time.

I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal composition (for example, Guard), which prevents the formation of mold and fungus on the supporting frame of the dwelling and gives the tree fire-fighting properties. It is necessary to process wood with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the inner cladding, I will use OSB boards and vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of brushed aluminum foil. The work is done in the following sequence:

I sheathe the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. A vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
- Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces of the required size according to pre-made drawings.
- Parts must be made in such sizes that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed, through which moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
- Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm.
- The cladding seams should go in a checkerboard pattern with an offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allow avoiding warping of the surface when changing the size of the base.

Installing vapor barrier material. As I said, penofol will play its role - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
- The material should be placed on the OSB sheets with the reflective layer outward, and then fixed to the panels using a construction stapler or wide-head nails.
- Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.
- To seal the seams, a double-sided adhesive tape is placed inside the overlap, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulation layer.

I install counters. They are necessary for arranging the ventilation gap between the foil and the finish lining. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally, depending on how you will fix the decorative material (in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards with self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

I fix the lining on the counter rails. I already once described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard, so I won’t dwell on it in detail. I can only say that it is better to install lamellas on kleimers, thanks to which the change in the size of the eurolining during operation is compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra boards are best suited as thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between the supporting elements of the frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, two layers of mineral mats 5 cm each are sufficient for insulation.

Another plus is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between the supports of 60 cm. This is just the width of the insulation plate. Therefore, pruning is practically not necessary. Thanks to this, expensive material is consumed with maximum efficiency.

Installing the first layer of insulation. As I said, the width of the plates exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame bars, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened, the mineral mat will firmly take its place. Let me draw your attention to a few things:

It is impossible to fix the mineral mat on the inner OSB board. Otherwise, a self-tapping screw can damage the foam layer, which is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
Trimming the plates, if necessary, is done with a sharp clerical knife or a saw with fine teeth.
After installation of all plates, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the plates with polyurethane adhesive from a cylinder. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

Installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run up. The rest of the rules are the same as in point 1. Don't forget to fill the joints between the boards with polyurethane foam. Excess of it, after the final solidification, will need to be cut off with a sharp one.

I install insulation in structural elements of complex shape. Be sure to insulate all sections of the walls. Of particular difficulty are usually slopes, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of the insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the process of thermal insulation is not yet over. Outside, the thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 - Installation of hydro and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is the following:

A film is laid on the insulation layer. The material is fixed with staples and a construction stapler to the frame beams. You can use carnations with wide hats:
- Work should start from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
- Film sheets must be placed horizontally.
- Each next canvas should overlap the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.

I seal the joints between the individual canvases. For this, adhesive tape is used, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, a completely sealed canvas should be obtained, which protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer lining and drafts blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
I stuff the slats of the counter-lattice on the polymer membrane. Here, the ventilation gap is simply mandatory, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

I fix OSB-plates on the rails. I already described the technology for their installation when I talked about the inner lining of a frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell on this stage in detail.

Step 5 - Finishing

The technology of decorative finishing of the facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case, this will be a block house, the individual parts of which must be fixed on OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use, for example, vinyl siding, you can not use OSB boards at all, but mount the lamellas on a profile mounted on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To make it comfortable to be in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the heat energy loss occurs through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly describe how to thermally insulate this surface:

Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The filing will not experience a large load, therefore it is enough to fix the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances at the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the substrate.
Fix penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about wall insulation technology.
Screw the battens. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the total thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
Decorate the surface of the ceiling with clapboard. It is mounted on clamps or screws.
Install insulation from the attic. Mineral wool is inserted into the gaps between the beams of the attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up with sheet material (in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is the insulation of the floor with your own hands. The technology practically does not differ from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

the vapor barrier film is placed from the side of the living quarters, and the waterproofing is at the bottom;
a tongue-and-groove board is used as a floor covering, which is placed on a counter-lattice;
if it is not possible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be placed on the cranial beams, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read a separate material on thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above tells about the thermal insulation of a wooden dwelling from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

How to choose a heater for a frame house. Types of heaters, their advantages and disadvantages. Stages of work on the insulation of the structure.

If a wooden house is chosen for year-round living, it is necessary to choose the right insulation for a frame house. What properties should a frame house insulation have? What is its peculiarity in relation to - thermal conductivity, water absorption and fire safety. How does the shrinkage of the insulation occur and how environmentally friendly it is.

What materials are suitable for insulating a frame structure. What are mineral heaters, ecowool and basalt wool. Why is wind protection and vapor barrier so important?

Rules for the insulation of frame houses. Types of heaters. Features of insulation of frame-panel and metal frames. How does insulation perform for a frame building. Is polyurethane good for use? Stages of work in the insulation of walls, ceilings and roofs.

What properties should a heater for a frame house have

Everyone who is faced with frame construction at some point is forced to think about what kind of insulation is best for a frame house. To make the right decision, it is necessary to know the properties of the main heat-insulating materials offered by the modern market. In addition, the rules on which their choice is based should be taken into account. After reading this article, you will be able to consciously and competently choose the most suitable insulating material for insulating the walls of a frame house.

Heaters used to insulate the walls of a frame house must have the following properties:

low thermal conductivity;
fire safety;
low water absorption;
lack of shrinkage;
environmental friendliness.

Thermal conductivity

The ability of a material to transfer heat reflects the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The lower its value, the less heat passes through this material. At the same time, in winter, the room does not cool down so quickly, and in summer it heats up more slowly. This allows you to achieve savings on cooling and heating. For this reason, when choosing a heater, be sure to take into account the value of the thermal conductivity of the material during operation in specific conditions.

Water absorption

The next important indicator that affects the ability of the insulation to retain heat is its water absorption. It is the ratio of the amount of water absorbed by the insulation to the mass of the insulation itself. This characteristic demonstrates the ability to absorb and retain moisture in the pores in case of direct contact with water.

Due to the fact that wet material conducts heat well, the smaller this value is, the better. This is due to the fact that when wet, the air pores of the insulation are filled with water, which has a greater thermal conductivity than air. In addition, too wet material can simply freeze, turning into ice and completely lose its function.

fire safety

The fire safety of materials means the ability to withstand exposure to high temperatures without breaking the structure and igniting. This parameter is regulated using GOST 30244, GOST 30402 and SNiP 21-01-97, which subdivide them into combustibility groups from G1 to G4, while completely non-combustible substances are designated NG. For frame residential buildings, heaters belonging to the NG group are most preferred.

Insulation shrinkage

When choosing a heat insulator for a frame building, it is imperative to take into account such an indicator as the ability to shrink. This value should be minimal, otherwise, during operation, material subsidence will appear at the places where the insulation is laid, which will lead to the appearance of cold bridges and an increase in heat loss.

Environmental friendliness

The basis of the walls of the frame house is a heater. Since the insulating material will surround you everywhere in the frame house, you need to be sure that this is a really high-quality insulation and that it does not emit harmful substances.

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