How to make a revolving table. Turning coffee table with your own hands. Choose a tabletop project with a rotating center

Do-it-yourself cake turntable is needed not only for real confectioners. This is a necessary item for those who cook for pleasure. Housewives who bake mastic-coated cakes cannot do without such a design. The main purpose of a turntable is to facilitate the process of decorating a cake. That is, you do not have to beat around and around the finished product, it will be enough just to decorate a rotating cake. Baking spins around its axis, and you only need to have time to decorate it.

How to make a turntable? To get started, prepare all the necessary materials. You will need two bearings, which are available from auto parts stores.

Please note that there are double, compressed bearings. The second option is preferable because you will have to tinker less.

The turntable also needs a wooden plate. You can stock up on the door from the kitchen set. In addition, you will need hard nails, self-tapping screws, plastic tubes, a metal circle, thin plastic, plywood.

Work process

Scheme Drawing

Making a turntable with your own hands is quite simple. First of all, you will need to draw a quality drawing. After that, we begin to work according to the following scheme. If you have two bearings, and not one pressed one, then we drive an element of a smaller diameter into a larger one using nails. It is necessary to cut out two circles with a diameter of 20 cm in a wooden plate. In one of the circles, a hole is cut in the middle into which the bearing is hammered. In this case, the two parts are twisted and fixed with screws. The bearing is placed in the center.

The do-it-yourself table is equipped with plastic tubes. The tube should connect the upper and lower parts. Consider this point when you make a drawing for the turntable. In this case, the tube must fit exactly into the bearing. The ideal length is 15 cm. Such a tube will not be too short or long, so you do not have to bend down to decorate the product.

The top is made of metal. In order for it to spin, pay special attention to its diameter. On average, the diameter of a metal circle should range from 30 to 40 cm. If you have the opportunity to weld the elements, it will only be wonderful. For those who are deprived of such an opportunity, cold welding was invented, which looks like plasticine. A cake turntable also requires circles cut out of plywood. The rotating part is mounted on the pipe, and the elements are fastened with self-tapping screws.

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The table can be made of wood:

Cake turntable

Bearing Assembly of rotation
Table top base Rotating part assembled
Cake turntable (bottom view) Cake turntable (side view)

Collecting cabinet furniture is a pleasure. All costs pale in front of the ease of use of items made "for themselves." We invite you to study the common designs of folding dining tables, as well as the technique of assembling them, and you will be able to make a folding dining table with your own hands.

What are we going to make

The main advantage of folding tables is their mobility, and for this they must be light. Exactly to the extent that the housewife will cope with their transformation and movement. It is unlikely that a table made of solid wood will be easy to lift, and with small dimensions such material is completely inappropriate.

It is supposed to use light and thin laths of factory-cut chipboard or self-cut to create the base of the table.

For countertops, the choice is almost unlimited. You may prefer conventional particle board, but also consider MDF panels, furniture boards or 40mm acrylic or vinyl coated chipboard kitchen worktops. However, keep in mind that for most of these materials, the wrong side is different from the front, it simply does not withstand normal operating loads. This moment can be decisive in some table designs.

Swivel, sliding or classic "book"

There are truly many ways to transform the countertop. The simplest and most familiar of them is used in a table-cabinet, which has two lifting tabletops on piano hinges and swivel legs as a support for them. The table is not always convenient: the person sitting at the central section simply has nowhere to put his knees, moreover, when unfolding it, he often has to move and turn. The aesthetic value of such furniture is almost zero, but the "book" is the most budgetary version of the table.


Sliding tables have a rigid frame with fixed legs. Only the tabletop undergoes transformation: it moves to the side to the middle of the frame, while the open part is covered by the second half, stored separately. Such tables are good in spacious dining rooms, the transformation is carried out in a few simple movements.


By the way, there are several layout options, for example, the edges of the table top can be moved with the insertion of the central segment. Or, for example, the tabletop can be folded in half on hidden mortise hinges and lean back onto the open part of the frame after shifting. Do not bypass the rotary structures, in which the tabletop does not move to the side, but rotates perpendicularly, after which it is complemented by the second half.


Making table legs

The legs for the "book" are assembled from three strips of chipboard. Two of them are fastened with the letter G on 60 mm confirmations. At the end of a 100 mm rail, for this, it is necessary to drill a through hole of 4 mm, expand it with a 6 mm drill to a depth of 70 mm, and then with a 10 mm drill to a depth of 60 mm. In other words, manually and gradually perform milling for a recessed confirmation.

To prevent the tabletop from swinging around, the leg is covered from the end with a bar 100 mm wide and fastened with 45 mm confirmations in three arbitrary places, hiding the traces of the previous fastening. This method of fastening is the least noticeable and most durable, but you can also use overlay corners, dowels or ties.


For a sliding table, legs from two chipboard strips folded perpendicularly are suitable. A rectangular frame is assembled between the legs of the same material, which fastens the base of the table. Another, more complicated option is to assemble square boxes from planks 84 mm wide and tighten them with confirmations. Such strict and discreet legs will suit most interior solutions, while providing good stability and allowing you to comfortably stretch your legs.



You can also use chrome pipes or turned products as legs for all types of tables.

The main frame is very simple

For sliding and rotary tables, the main frame is made of chipboard strips 120-200 mm wide. In general, the frame encircles the legs in a circle and hides the traces of the table top. Square legs can also be fastened not with an external belt, but with intermediate inserts. The upper ends of the parts must be flush; to give diagonal strength, it is possible to add jumpers inside the frame. The elements are fastened with furniture corners on the inside.


The total length of the base should be 40-50% less than the length of the tabletop when unfolded. The width is chosen so that the overhang of the tabletop along the edges is at least 100-150 mm.

When assembling the base for a “book”, the main dimensions have a stricter relationship. The central segment of the table top determines the overall width of the table, which should be 20-25 cm less than the length of the side wings. That, in turn, should be less than the height of the table by about 50 mm. Since the legs are hidden inside the base when the table is assembled, its minimum width when folded is at least 300 mm.


The base itself is assembled in the shape of the letter P and reinforced with one crossbar 400 mm wide in the center on the edge. It is possible to fasten from the inside with furniture corners, but in this case it is better to prefer confirmations. The leg loops are attached no closer than 50 mm to the edge of the side walls.

Hidden storage sections

Often the inner space of the base of the table is used to store dishes or household chemicals. The easiest way to organize a storage space is inside a folding "book". The width of the central segment must be increased by 200-250 mm and several horizontal shelves should be used instead of one vertical crossbar. It is also possible with a blind lining of the inner box and the installation of doors on the ends of the base.



Due to the complex shape of the legs, the door will be 100 mm wider than the box on both sides, so it is important to remember one thing: the handle on the door is installed on the side where the table leg is in the folded state. Accordingly, under different wings, the direction of opening the doors and the location of the legs should be opposite.

In sliding tables for arranging a niche, it is enough to knock out the frame from below with a solid sheet of MDF and add a few cross bars to secure the bottom more firmly. Another option is to use frame strips up to 400 mm wide and fasten the base along the center. Drawers can be installed in the formed niches on full extension rails.


Countertop options

The tabletop for the “book” must be assembled upside down, laying out the sheets of chipboard on the floor and carefully aligning them. The wings are connected to the central section with piano hinges, then drilling is performed for dowels for fixing to the ends of the base. Additionally, it is necessary to provide limiters in the center of each wing so that the leg does not develop from accidental movement of the foot.


The most versatile option for mounting the table top of sliding tables is on drawer rails. To do this, the table top or its halves are complemented by a pair of longitudinal ribs, the distance between which is 20 mm greater than the width of the base body. The guides can be used as regular or full extension, their length must be comparable to the overhang of the tabletop in the unfolded state. This installation allows you to maximize the size of the unfolded table, at the same time, strength and stability do not deteriorate.


If the tabletop is assembled from two halves, they can be folded with their front surfaces to each other and embedded hidden loops into the ends. With this option, the front surface of the unfolded tabletop always remains intact, that is, its individual parts will not have varying degrees of wear.


Metal dowels at the ends of different segments of the tabletops are also very useful, which ensures greater solidity and eliminates the formation of bumpers and drops.

  • Device type
  • Materials and fixings
  • The size of the parts of the sliding table
  • Frame and leg design
  • Preparation of countertop components
  • Assembling a sliding dining item

The dining table is considered one of the most necessary attributes in a kitchen or dining room. The size of the table is calculated based on the number of people using it and the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which it will be placed.

To date, the modern furniture industry offers many different options for dining tables, but the most common model is the type of table with a sliding top. This is primarily due to the fact that such a table fits almost any small room. Its versatility allows you to save a significant amount of usable space in the kitchen or dining room. The sliding table is quite convenient in operation, it can be installed in any part of the room.

Despite the technological features, the sliding table type has a simple design. Therefore, if you do not have the opportunity to purchase ready-made dining furniture, you can make a sliding type of table with your own hands. To do this, it is not necessary to have professional skills, it is enough to understand a little carpentry.

Device type

At the moment, the furniture market offers tables with special devices that require only the rotation of the desired handle for instant and independent transformation. Such designs are considered advanced, most often they have a high cost. Therefore, the average consumer cannot always afford high-tech furniture.

It is not possible to assemble an attribute of furniture with such a mechanism at home, but on the other hand, you can independently design a sliding-type dining table of a simpler type. The main factor in the discomfort during the operation of such tables is the absence of any mechanism that is responsible for shifting parts of the table top. In Soviet times, they did not pay much attention to this, therefore, almost all elements of the furniture of the last century were put forward and retracted by human effort.

To simplify the design, while adding convenience to it when using it, you will need to equip the sliding table with a special mechanism.

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Materials and fixings

The production of the dining table will be carried out on the basis of a classic design, which involves its combination with some modern elements.

For manufacturing, you will need the following materials, accessories and tools:

  1. A small bar for table legs with a section of 4 × 4 cm (the height of the dining table is about 73 cm, so you will need to make 4 legs 71 cm long).
  2. For the base, high-quality plywood with a layer thickness of 2 cm is used.
  3. The tabletop and frame are made of laminated boards of the chipboard type, the thickness of which must be at least 1.8 cm.
  4. Self-tapping wood screws 4×50 mm.
  5. Self-tapping screws 4×16 mm.
  6. Carpentry dowels 8 × 40 mm in size.
  7. Joiner's corners made of iron for self-tapping screws measuring 3 × 3 cm.
  8. Adhesive type edge in the color of the laminated worktop.
  9. Sandpaper or grinder.
  10. Construction adhesive for gluing dowels.
  11. Electric drill with drills with a diameter of 8-10 mm.
  12. Household iron.
  13. Extended set of carpentry tools.
  14. Scissors or construction knife.
  15. Roulette for measuring constituent elements.
  16. High-quality wood paint and varnish to cover the outer parts of the table.

The main innovative idea in the Soviet-type sliding table is the presence of a roll-out mechanism, which is most often used in the manufacture of drawers.

Synchronous mechanism with stopper for frameless tables with fastening to the tabletop.

For a particular table, two guides will be enough, the length of which should be about 30 cm. In any case, the mount is hidden under the table top, so the color and condition of the hardware do not matter.

Sawing components from laminated chipboard and plywood must be uniform, accurate and highly accurate. Therefore, it is best to entrust this work to a skilled worker with a special saw used in furniture production.

The total size of the dining table, excluding height, is 90×70 cm in the assembled position and 130×70 cm in the extended position. This size will be enough to seat 8-12 people at the table in free seating.

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The size of the parts of the sliding table

The components of the table in question will have the following dimensions:

  • the tabletop consists of two parts, the size of each is 45 × 70 cm;
  • the dismantled tabletop element has a size of 40 × 70 cm;
  • side parts for boxes under the table should be 42 × 12 cm each (4 pieces in total);
  • the end elements of the boxes under the table have a size of 60 × 12 cm (2 pieces in total).

The value of the components on a plywood base:

  • the end elements of the frame and the crossbar, on which the dismantled part of the table is placed in the assembled form, have a size of 50 × 12 cm each (4 pieces in total);
  • the side parts of the frame have a size of 83 × 12 cm each (2 pieces in total).

It is necessary to pay special attention to the finish of each element, as they will always be in sight. If the table will be placed indoors, then it will not require a special moisture-resistant coating. But splinters still need to be removed, so the best solution is to do a good sanding before varnishing the parts. After identifying roughness, you need to process the surface with emery and varnish it again.

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Frame and leg design

The end elements and the crossbar are placed in the middle of the side parts of the frame. The first 2 parts should be fixed parallel to the edges of the side parts, the second 2 parts are located almost in the very center of the formed frame parallel to the bottom edge. The interval between the parts should be approximately 10-12 cm. The dismantled part of the countertop will be conveniently located on the formed structure, but to pull it out, you will need to slightly tilt one of the sides. For this reason, it is necessary to make the interval between the crossbars as small as possible.

The legs are inserted into the corner of the frame and twist right through it from the outside. This is done using self-tapping screws measuring 4x50 mm. In addition, it is necessary to place iron corners on the surface of the frame and legs. At this stage, it is important to check the reliability of the design and the uniformity of the location of each of the legs, otherwise the table will swing. If you find any deviations, you can immediately correct their height.

The appearance of sliding furniture used to be associated with a small area of ​​​​apartments. And today, more and more often, a rational approach is used in the arrangement of premises: it is not necessary to have a large table in the house or office, you can get by with a smaller product. But capacious tables become necessary during the reception of delegations and guests. What to do? The answer to such a request are tables of different styles made of wood, plastic, metal, glass, equipped with various transformation mechanisms. Such furniture is able to double or even triple the usable area of ​​the countertop.

Despite the large number of proposals, there is a desire to make a round, oval or rectangular sliding table with your own hands. This is due to objective advantages:

  • You can choose the dimensions of the product yourself.
  • The layout mechanism depends on the desire of the owner.
  • Independent choice of material, color, design.
  • Saving money.

Drawings, photographs and a description of the work from the masters will simplify the process.

Technical solutions refute stereotypes. The coffee table in the living room, thanks to the installation of a special mechanism, will provide a comfortable place for gatherings with friends. The useful area of ​​the countertop will increase by 2 times.


In our version, the folded table has the following dimensions:

  • width - 75 cm,
  • length - 90 cm,
  • height - 46 cm;

unfolded:

  • width - 150 cm,
  • length - 90 cm,
  • height - 78 cm.

Individual production allows you to change the size of the product, and, accordingly, its parts at the request of the master. A sliding table can be made of wood, but making it yourself will be time-consuming. The use of chipboard will greatly simplify the task.

The sliding mechanism is available in two versions:

  • two single for symmetrical installation;


  • double.

Keep in mind that a round table cannot be made foldable with this type of fixture.

If you like to create such structures with your own hands, purchase parts from which you can make two layout mechanisms.

  • tube 20x20 cm - 4 linear meters;
  • tube 50x25 cm - 1.2 p. m;
  • metal strip. - 1 p. m;
  • 6 bolts M8x120;
  • 2 bolts M8x60;
  • 2 bolts M8x50;
  • 8 bolts M4x20;
  • 26 nuts M8;
  • 24 washers 30x8;
  • 12 intersection screeds;
  • 4 gas shock absorbers 120-140N.

The device and the connection points of the mechanisms can be understood by considering the diagram below.


Stock up on furniture fittings:

  • eccentric coupler in the amount of 16 pieces;
  • 32 confirmations;
  • 32 self-tapping screws 30x4;
  • 4 plastic double corners;
  • 8 self-tapping screws 4x16;
  • futorki D8 М6х13, 12 pieces in total;
  • 2 bolts M6x30;
  • 8 bolts M6x20;
  • 4 bolts M6x15;
  • 3 hinges;
  • 4 furniture corners;
  • edge tape.

You will also need tools: a jigsaw, an electric drill, a screwdriver, a key for confirmations.

From chipboard (25 mm) it is necessary to cut:

  • 2 worktop panel blanks, 750x900 mm each;
  • 2 panels 730x460 mm - the ends of the base of the table;
  • 2 panels 730x150 mm - sidewalls of the box hiding the mechanism;
  • 2 panels 680x730 mm - the bottom of the box;
  • detail 730x730 mm - internal shelf (optional).

Cutting parts with your own hands must be done as accurately as possible, this will help to assemble the product easier, faster and better. If you have never made tables or cut wood-based materials before, contact a specialist who works with professional carpentry equipment.

Description of work

  1. Paste the ends of the blanks with melamine edging. This will give them a neat look and protect them from damage. The edge must be selected in the color of the base material.
  2. We proceed to the connection of the sides and the bottom of the box with confirmations to accommodate the transformation mechanism.
  3. Make symmetrical marks on opposite sides of the base cabinet to install an additional shelf. We fasten the shelf with confirmations: 2-3 pieces on each side. Try to ensure that the confirmations enter slowly into the middle of the chipboard, in this case the risk of damage to the integrity of the material is reduced.
  4. Attach the drawer to the end legs using furniture corners. Reinforce with 1-2 confirmations by screwing them into the junction of the end of the table and the bottom of the box.
  5. Connect the parts of the countertop with card loops.
  6. Install the transformation mechanism in the prepared drawer.
  7. Fasten the platforms of the mechanism with confirmations to the tabletop.

If you decide to make a table with your own hands with a single mechanism, then connect the first pair to the bottom of the tabletop, and fasten the other with a connecting panel (from the bottom side).

A large table is the dream of every hospitable hostess. After all, all his friends will fit behind him without any problems. The most popular is the traditional rectangular design, although round and oval tables have always been considered symbols of comfort and well-being.


Today, there are many transformation mechanisms for both rectangular and round tables. We offer to make a full-fledged dining table with your own hands with a tabletop size of 116x92 cm. After moving apart and installing an additional tab 42 cm wide, it will be transformed into a large place for a feast 158 ​​cm long.

What you need to create an oval table

  • Pine boards of good quality (for countertops) meter length.
  • 4 bars with a section of 75 × 75 mm, length 770 mm for legs. Their color should be similar to the boards.
  • Joiner's glue.
  • Lathe.
  • Grinding machine with nozzles of different grain sizes.
  • Electric drill.
  • Clamps.
  • Dowels.
  • Self-tapping screws.
  • Joiner's glue.
  • Stain, varnish for wood.
  • Roulette, level, pencil.

We collect the countertop with our own hands. Please refer to the detail drawings. If you want to make a rectangular or round table instead of an oval table, make your own changes.

  • To correctly mark the shape of the legs, make markings using a template.
  • The bars should be turned at low machine speeds (1500 rpm). Be extra careful when making balls. To avoid breakage, it is better to give the legs an oval shape in this place. You can also order this work from an experienced craftsman or buy finished products of the required parameters.


An oval-shaped folding kitchen table is perfect for those who like to dine with the whole family and receive guests from time to time. It's pretty easy to do it yourself. Self-made furniture is distinguished by original design and the ability to take into account individual needs, due to the characteristics of the room and the taste of the owners of the house.

Why an oval table

An oval-shaped folding dining table is good because it has rounded corners. This avoids "unpleasant collisions" and is especially appreciated by those who have small children at home. The oval shape suggests the location of the table in the center of the room. However, if necessary, you can put such a table at the kitchen corner.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, you must:

  1. Determine the dimensions of the future table.
  2. Make sketches and drawings of the design of the product and its individual parts.
  3. The choice of material for countertops and supports.
  4. Calculate the required amount of materials.
  5. Purchase materials, fasteners and accessories.

Determining the size and shape of the table

The size of the product depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kitchen and the number of people that need to be placed at the table. The optimal solution for a medium-sized kitchen would be a folding dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm (folded), consisting of two parts with dimensions of 60 × 80 cm each.

It will be correct to draw a sketch of the future product on a scale, in order to understand what ratio of the width and length of the table will allow you to maintain a beautiful rounded shape even when unfolded, as well as a size suitable for a particular kitchen.

For a kitchen of this size, a folding oval dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm is suitable if you put it with a kitchenette. If you place the table in the center of the room, access to kitchen cabinets and household appliances will be difficult. When receiving guests, you can put it in the middle of the kitchen.

The optimal length of the dining table top section, for the convenient location of one person, is 60 cm. The sketch shows that a 120 × 80 cm sliding table is perfect for four to six people (six will fit behind it if you push the table to the center of the kitchen). In the unfolded form at such a table it will be possible to seat up to 8 people. If you need a folding dining table for more guests, you can increase the size of the insert or make two of the same.

Execution of drawings

It is necessary to complete the following drawings and sketches (option with a two-piece table top 60 × 80 cm and one insert 40 × 80 cm):

  • drawing of the details of the main table top, to determine the desired shape of the table and the corresponding rounding radius;


Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 20 cm


Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 30 cm


Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 40 cm

  • insert drawing 80x40 cm;
  • sketch of the tabletop in extended form;
  • for tables with a tsarga (underframe) a drawing of the details of the tsarga.


The specified dimensions of the drawer parts are suitable for a folding dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm in a shifted position. It is necessary to make two parts with dimensions of 80 × 12 cm and 40 × 12 cm.

Material selection

Folding kitchen table details:

  • countertop and inserts to it;
  • supports (legs);
  • tsarga;
  • edge (for tables made of chipboard and MDF);
  • extension mechanism;
  • countertop clamps;
  • fasteners.

For the manufacture of a folding table top, you can use wood, chipboard, MDF, natural stone and glass. Chipboard and MDF can be either laminated or plastic coated. The thickness of the tabletop can be from 18 to 48 mm (sometimes more).

Natural stone is the most durable, moisture and heat resistant material. But this material has a significant disadvantage, this is a rather high cost. Alternatively, you can use a chipboard or MDF countertop, decorated with ceramic tiles.

When choosing the color and thickness of the countertop, it is imperative to take into account the design of the rest of the furnishings in the kitchen, especially the thickness and texture of the countertop of the kitchen set.

The legs can be made from the same material as the tabletop, or you can purchase ready-made metal supports. They are of two types: for tables with a frame and for frameless designs.

The drawer side can also be made from the same material as the countertop, or from any other material that is suitable in thickness and texture.

For processing slices of chipboard and MDF, edges are used:

The most budgetary and least practical option is the melamine edge, it is the thinnest and is a paper tape with a density of 120-130 g per square meter. m. Its thickness is 0.1 mm.

The PVC edge differs from it in greater thickness and wear resistance.

The ABS edge is made of plastic and is characterized by increased impact resistance and resistance to external influences.

Acrylic edging is often referred to as 3D edging due to its "bulky" effect. This is the most advantageous, in terms of appearance, option.

PVC, ABS and acrylic edges have a thickness of 0.4 to 2 mm. Depending on the thickness of the countertop and other details of the product, a suitable edge width is selected, which ranges from 18 to 55 mm. On sale there are types of edges with an already applied adhesive layer.

There are three types of sliding mechanisms for folding tables according to the method of fastening:

  • for barless tables;
  • for internal fastening to the side;
  • for external fastening to the king.

According to the method of expansion, there are two types of mechanisms: synchronous and non-synchronous. In the first case, the details of the tabletop are moved apart at the same time, in the second case, separately.

When buying, you need to take into account the length of the mechanism not extended and the maximum size of the inserts (these parameters should be indicated in the characteristics of the mechanism).

For a folding table without a frame measuring 120 × 80 cm in a shifted state with two inserts of 40 or 50 cm, a mechanism 98 cm long with a maximum insert size of 50 cm (48/980 / T2S) is suitable.

To fix the countertop, you will additionally need special locks-clamps. Their number depends on how many inserts the table will have.

Calculation of the necessary materials

Based on the completed drawings, you need to calculate:

  • the total area of ​​all table parts made of wood, chipboard or MDF;
  • edge footage, for tables made of chipboard and MDF.

For a table without a frame with a table top made of two pieces of chipboard measuring 60 × 80 cm and one insert 40 cm wide, you will need: 1.3 sq. m. Chipboard, 9 m edges (with a margin), 4 metal supports, sliding mechanism, 4 tabletop clamps, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Table making process

  1. Cut out the details of the table according to the drawings and cut them out.
  2. Glue the cut edges.
  3. Assemble the table.
  4. Finish finishing.

Instruments:

  • large ruler or tape measure;
  • pencil;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • milling cutter;
  • belt grinder;
  • drill;
  • iron or building hair dryer.

cutting

Chipboard and MDF can be purchased in the form of sheets (boards) of a certain size. The minimum dimensions of a chipboard or MDF sheet are 244 x 120 cm. From the above calculation, it can be seen that for the manufacture of an oval sliding kitchen table measuring 120 x 80 cm (160 x 80 when extended), one such sheet will be needed.

Examples of cutting a chipboard sheet for an oval sliding kitchen table



The main tabletop will consist of two pieces 60x80 cm in size. In addition to it, there will be one piece 40x80 cm in size. The rest of the material can be used to make stools and as a result you will get a wonderful kitchen set.

You can cut out parts using a jigsaw, rounding is done with a milling machine.

edge banding

First you need to carefully treat all the sections with a sealant (silicone), let it dry, and then you can start gluing the edge. For this, an iron or a building hair dryer is used.

It is necessary to pre-clean the sections from wood dust. Then attach the edge so that it completely covers the cut (the width of the edge must be greater than the thickness of the countertop). Turn on the iron and set the "synthetics" mode. Lay newspaper between the iron and the cut and start heating the edge. After it starts to stick, smooth the finished area with a cloth and continue to iron with the iron. You need to smooth it until the edge cools down.

If the edge does not have its own adhesive layer, then any universal adhesive can be used. The cut surface must be smooth and dust-free. Glue must be applied to both the edge and the end and glued together, while smoothing with a roller or cloth. Instead of a cloth and a roller, you can use a wooden block covered with felt.

After completion of work, it is required to carefully check for fragments with a loose fit. Then you need to chip off the edge protruding beyond the edges, remove the remaining glue and sand the edges with sandpaper.

Better bonding can be achieved with a building hair dryer. A jet of air with a temperature of 200 degrees should be directed only to the adhesive layer. Well-heated glue should protrude from under the edge. Remove excess glue only after complete drying.

Table assembly

Assembly is performed in the following sequence:

  • Fold the halves of the main countertop together.
  • Attach a sliding mechanism to them.



  • Install table brackets.


  • Move the halves of the main tabletop and insert the removable part.
  • Fasten the latches on the insert so that, when extended, their parts coincide with the corresponding parts of the main tabletop.


  • Screw the legs to the table top.

To do this, on the reverse side of the countertop we apply markings with a pencil to determine the place of attachment of the legs. The optimal distance from the edge of the tabletop to the leg is 10 cm. On the beam connecting the center of the circle along which the tabletop was rounded with its edge, we retreat from the edge of the tabletop 13 cm (10 cm + 3 cm radius of the leg) and put a point. This point will coincide with the center of the support.

The sliding table is convenient and compact. But not everyone has the opportunity to buy it, since the price of a sliding table is quite high. But all craftsmen who are ready to create household items with their own hands have the opportunity to make it on their own. Tabletops can be made with your own hands, using a glass coating or wood. Glass tables or from natural wood species look very nice. But since natural materials are not cheap, it is better to entrust the legs and tabletop to be cut by specialists so as not to spoil the tree. Very beautiful sliding tables - on one leg.

The sliding table is very convenient and compact, it can also be made by hand using a glass or wooden cover.

The design can be chosen at will, for example, to make the legs chiseled or figured. The sliding table will have the following dimensions (in millimeters):

  • table height - 775;
  • countertop width - 885;
  • countertop length - 1245;
  • insert - 375.

Materials and tools that will be needed for modeling

In order to make such a sliding table, not so many materials are required, so the piece of furniture will turn out to be inexpensive, but practical and beautiful. The most important thing is that all parts have the right size and are symmetrical. From the materials you will need:

  • wooden bars (legs) - section 85 \ 85 mm, length 745 mm;
  • frames connecting the legs (width - 105 mm, thickness 30 mm): 2 pcs. 925 mm long (+ 2 spikes - their length is 40-55 mm), 2 pieces 485 mm each (+ 2 spikes, 40-55 mm long);
  • 2 wooden worktop surfaces of the same size - 805 mm wide, 625 mm long;
  • worktop insert - width 375 mm;
  • for countertops, it is better to choose a carpentry shield (thickness 35-45 mm);
  • sliding mechanism;
  • wooden spikes for connecting frames (diameter 9-11 mm);
  • a drill to create nests into which spikes will then be inserted;
  • self-tapping screws for installing a sliding mechanism;
  • glue for wooden surfaces (you can use PVA);
  • machine for grinding wooden surfaces;
  • sandpaper is loose;
  • varnish for coating wooden surfaces;
  • brush;
  • ruler.

DIY sliding table - assembly

When the parts are assembled, the modeling process can begin. First of all, it is necessary to mark the nests on the wooden blanks for the legs. In the future, the spikes of the frames will be inserted into these sockets to connect the legs. In accordance with the diameter of the spike, you need to make holes. It is better to “plant” the spikes on the glue, in which case the structure will be much stronger.

First you need to assemble the underframe and only then proceed with the assembly of the main parts. A prerequisite is that the docking at the ends should be as accurate as possible. After placing the spikes in the nests, assemble the structure. It is not recommended to glue the parts right away, it is better to assemble the entire table first, see with your own eyes whether the sizes and joints match, and only then glue the parts.

After all the above steps, you need to start installing the insert. Some differences in the level of one or more parts may occur, which can be easily eliminated with a grinder. The sliding table mechanism is mainly made of aluminum. Installation is carried out either with self-tapping screws or by gluing.

The next step is the installation of the sliding mechanism. It is not difficult to attach it, it is enough to fasten the guides to the long frames, and each of the sliders to its own part of the table top. It is better to mount the sliding mechanism by turning the table on the countertop. It is imperative that after installing the mechanism, you need to check how the center insert will be installed.

Under the tabletop, you need to install two slats the same length as the wooden center insert. This should be done for ease of use - when the insert board is not needed, it will be under the table top and held by slats. After the assembly process, the finished product can be stained.

A round table is considered a real chic and luxury. To date, they are the most expensive on the market, especially those made from natural wood. It is also possible to make a sliding table with your own hands in a round shape, the main thing is to have a desire.

Sliding table do it yourself round shape

In principle, the technique for assembling a round table does not differ from the technique described above. The only thing is that the edges of the countertop will have a rounded shape. For its manufacture you will need:

  • whatman;
  • scissors;
  • any glue for a wooden surface;
  • bar for legs;
  • simple pencil;
  • ruler;
  • boards;
  • plywood 8 mm;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • screwdriver;
  • hacksaw.

Using a large compass, you need to cut out the shape of the future tabletop from whatman paper. Only after that cut it out of wood. What kind of tabletop will be - glass or wood, depends on the desire of the owner of the future sliding table.

Glass and wooden sliding tables look much more beautiful if they have one curly leg.

What you need to know about assembling a sliding table with your own hands

All about countertop

First of all, it is necessary to decide what material and what shape the table will be made of. Pine or chipboard is perfect. Naturally, a pine board is preferable, as it is much stronger, in addition, pine boards are environmentally friendly. Boards are cut and processed according to the size of the future countertop. In the event that the table is nevertheless made of chipboard, the sheets must be drawn into 3 parts, 2 of which will be the same size, and the 3rd part will serve as an insert in the center of the tabletop. Before assembling this piece of furniture, it is better to draw a drawing or use ready-made drawings. In order for it to be strong and last for a long time, it is necessary to observe accuracy in the calculations. Only in this case it will not “float” and will be durable.

The legs are mainly made from bars, which can be purchased at the store. The color scheme of the tabletop and legs should be either the same or differ in color by 1-2 tones. And the countertop should be darker. A prerequisite for the manufacture of a sliding table is the proportionality of the dimensions of the table top and legs. Too thin legs will not be able to hold a large tabletop. The length of the legs should match the overall look - a small coffee table will not look good with long legs. But if the idea is an unusual sliding table, then special attention is paid to marking the center of the bar. Legs can be curly. It is also possible to make a figured leg on your own. To do this, it is enough to study the technique of carving figures from wood.

Tsarga - these are strips that connect two parts with ends. To mark the drawers, you need to put the tabletop on a comfortable surface “face down”, but before that it is better to lay a soft cloth so as not to damage the surface. It is better to make each of the blanks of the tsargi a little larger than the intended size. The excess can always be removed, but the shortcomings of the length - no. The drawer is processed by a lathe and a milling cutter.

All about Assembly

The most important step is assembly. Particular attention must be paid to the connection of the side frames to the leg or legs. To do this, each spike must correspond to a pre-prepared groove. Do not forget about the grooves - they provide a strong connection. When applying glue for structural strength, after drying, all its excess must be removed with sandpaper. In any work, inconsistencies can occur, for example, mismatched edges of the tabletop. This is easy to fix with a grinder. Then clean with sandpaper and varnish the surface.

Advantages of sliding tables

The main and clear advantage of a do-it-yourself sliding table is its versatility. A special mechanism helps to make a large dining table out of a small compact table. That is why it is convenient for small apartment rooms. It does not take up much space, but allows you to seat about 9-10 people.

Due to the fact that there is a huge amount of material on the trade market for creating a sliding table at home, it can be made not only multifunctional and convenient, but also beautiful and stylish.

You can classify tables that are moved apart as follows:

Transformers.

Sliding tables got this name due to their unique ability to transform. From a seemingly small table, you can get a quite roomy dining room. The tables are round or oval in shape. The main distinguishing feature of these tables is the increase not only in their size, but also in height. You can make such a table with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to have a drawing. In addition, transformers have recently become very popular not only because of their convenience, but also because of their design excellence. Basically, transforming tables are made of wood or glass. Mirrored ones look very nice and save a lot of space in an apartment or house.

Standard sliding tables.

Tables of this type are no less popular. They are made of natural wood, fiberboard or chipboard. The advantage lies in their compactness. In addition, making a sliding table with your own hands will not be difficult. It is enough to follow the instructions for their construction.

Any sliding table is comfort and versatility. All of them are practical and economical. You can make a table not only for eating, but also for drawing, games. A do-it-yourself extendable table is a great way to make a child's room comfortable and stylish. In addition to all the advantages, transporting sliding tables is much easier than conventional ones.

A do-it-yourself extendable table for a children's room is an ideal solution, especially if there are several children in the family. In addition, it can be combined with a bed. Well, the most important positive side of the do-it-yourself sliding table is its economical cost.

It is probably not a secret for many that the presentation of their work, and even in 3D, is the key to success. The simplest solution in this matter is a rotary presentation table. On it, you can scroll through the work of Netzke, and can be used in the confectionery industry, as an auxiliary device when applying cream.
I need this table to show my homemade products.

And it's very easy to make it.
For the design we need:

  • - microwave motor
  • - switch;
  • - network wire;
  • - chipboard or plywood;
  • - self-tapping screws;
  • - corner.
To begin with, at the base we cut a cutout for the motor. I decided to leave the native connector and sawed out a little more.
Base dimensions 250*100 mm. Plywood 18 mm thick.


Pancake table with a diameter of 230 mm.
In the center we drill a hole for the motor, so that the axis fits snugly into the pancake of the table.


My plywood has scuffs, as bu. At first I thought to go through it with sandpaper, which I did, but then I decided to paint it black. When everything was dry, I drilled a hole for the wires.


Further.
We mark the place for the motor. We drill a hole half thinner than the self-tapping screws so that the plywood does not split. We screw the motor.


Now let's install the switch.
In the role of the latter, I have a toggle switch TP 1-2. What was, is applicable. Installed it on an aluminum corner. There was already a hole in the corner, but I finished it with a needle file to the desired one.
We run the wires into a pre-made hole and connect to the toggle switch.
We fasten the corner with self-tapping screws. The corner is applicable to any under your switch.


By motor. I have it for 220 volts. If the microwaves in which motors are installed at 21 volts (I came across such ones). In this case, you need a transformer or you can power it from the microwave board. In the latter case, the design becomes large in size.
Although the motor speed is only about 3 revolutions per minute, I decided to screw the legs.
To certainly exclude the crawling of the table on the surface.
In the role of legs, rubber stoppers from the medicine.


The finished design will look decent. There was an idea to paint the pancake white, but the paint was only water-based and was not suitable for its intended purpose.

ATTENTION! The device is powered by a household network. Take measures to insulate the wires at the point of connection to the switch.
Thank you for your attention!


The design was developed by Mastyrkin.

It would seem that the catastrophic lack of space for free movement is a common “disease” only for apartments and private houses of the old Soviet layout, when the number of square meters of living space per person was strictly regulated or the total area of ​​a private house was limited. However, how then to explain the popularity of multifunctional or folding furniture all over the world? The answer is simple: a person tends to be rational about the world around him, including the space of his home. Folding, resizable tables and chairs are a prime example of this.

A few reasons to make a folding table with your own hands

Today, the market offers many different designs of folding tables, but there is nothing complicated in their independent manufacture. In addition, in some cases, making a folding table with your own hands is much more profitable and, again, more rational:

  • The size of the table can be varied based on the size of a particular room;
  • the design of the table can be chosen depending on the ease of use, at will;
  • the design of the table is chosen in accordance with the interior of the room, so it does not “stand out” from the general style of the room.

An important factor is the exclusivity of hand-made furniture.

A folding table in the kitchen is the best option in the conditions of small apartments, when all family members can sit behind it (when folded). In the unfolded version, this is a full-fledged banquet table, at which twice (or even three times) more people can fit.

To make a folding dining table, it is not at all necessary to go to cabinetmaking courses: you can simply use our advice, dream up a little (in terms of design, of course), and think a little more - already on the drawings of the folding table that you need.

Materials, fixtures, fittings and tools

For work, in addition to the material (it is better to use chipboard for the table top and table box elements), you will need:

  • Tools - a jigsaw (or a hand-held electric end saw), an electric drill, a screwdriver or a curly screwdriver, a key for confirmations.
  • Fasteners and accessories - their number, types and sizes depend on the intended design of the table, so we will talk about them separately in each case.

Case 1. Making a folding table - a coffee table transformer

If you decide to make a folding table - a transformer for the living room, then you will need to purchase special transformation mechanisms (Fig. 1 or 2). Such a table will perfectly disguise itself as a regular coffee table, until guests descend on you and you need to set the table for several people in the living room.


Tables-transformers can have different dimensions.

Fig.1 Single transformation mechanism

Fig.2 Double transformation mechanism

Making such a table is quite simple, subject to strict adherence to the instructions and procedures.

First of all, carefully consider the proposed drawing of a folding table (Fig. 3), specify its dimensions in relation to your requests and, if necessary, make changes to your drawing.

Fig.3 Drawing of a folding table

We will need:

  1. LDS plate (25mm):
  • For countertops - panels 750x90 mm (2 pcs.);
  • in case of choosing a double mechanism (fig. 2) - one more panel with a size of 350x720mm for an auxiliary tabletop;
  • in the case of choosing a mechanism from Fig. 1 - a connecting panel, the length of which is equal to the distance between the platforms of the mechanisms, the width is equal to the length of the platform of the mechanism.

For the frame:

  • 2 panels 730x460mm (end sides of the table),
  • 2 panels 730x150mm (side parts of the box for the mechanism, which serve as a strapping for the tabletop);
  • 2 panels measuring 680x730mm (the bottom of the box for the mechanism) and 730x730mm (shelf for magazines "g").
  • Mechanism for transformation: from Fig. 1 - 4 pcs. (2 right and 2 left), from Fig. 2 - 2 pcs.
  • Fasteners - confirmations 8-10 pcs., furniture corners 4 pcs., ombre end hinges 2 pcs. (see fig. 4), self-tapping screws for fastening the tabletop to the platforms of the transformation mechanism.

    • Fig.4 Furniture corners

    Important! All parts must be cut out very accurately, before final assembly it is best to “bait” the main components of the table and, if necessary, adjust to fit.

    Assembly of a folding table-transformer

    Process the end parts of all cut parts with sandpaper (skins), paste over with a melamine edge to match the chipboard color.

    Fig.5 Assembling the base of the transformer table

    If you were careful and accurate when marking out the parts and sawing them, then assembling the table will not take much time and effort.

    As shown in fig. 3 and 5, first, with the help of confirmations, we connect the bottom and sides of the box for the mechanism (they are marked with crosses on the part b of Figure No. 5).

    With the help of the same confirmations, at the desired height from the floor, we fasten the shelf for magazines with the end parts of the table - 2-3 fasteners per side.

    We attach the box to the end legs with the help of furniture corners, for greater reliability we screw another 1-2 confirmations into the middle of the line of contact between the bottom of the box and the end plate of the table.

    • With the help of card loops we assemble the countertop;
    • In the drawer of the table we attach the mechanism for transformation.

    We attach the tabletop to the platforms of the mechanism:

    If the mechanism is single, then we attach the lower part of the tabletop to one pair, and fasten the second pair to each other with a connecting panel (on the underside of the platforms).

    If the mechanism is double, then we attach the tabletop to the large arms of the mechanism, and the supporting tabletop to the smaller ones.

    The table is ready. It remains only to mask the confirmers' heads with plugs and wait for the guests!

    Case 2. Making a turntable folding table

    If you are more interested in the idea of ​​​​a swivel folding table, then you will need special fasteners for rotation (you can use the swivel mechanism for TV), but if the table is not laid out daily, you can do without it.

    Fig.6 Rotary folding table


    To make a folding dining table with a swivel top, we need laminated chipboard (25 mm thick) in the following dimensions:

    • 770x500 mm - 2 pcs. (for a folding tabletop);
    • 400x670 mm - for a false tabletop (1 pc.);
    • 645x100 mm and 375x100 mm - 2 pcs. (for tying table legs);
    • 4 bars 40x40mm or 60x60mm, 700-750 mm long each (for legs).

    In addition, you will need 8 furniture corners for attaching the legs, 8 confirmations for the strapping box, ombre hinges for the tabletop, a swivel mechanism for TV, 4-6 wooden dowels.


    Fig. 7 Scheme of turning the tabletop

    It should be said that one of the most popular transformers is a book table, the drawings of which you can also find on our website.

    This video shows the manufacturing technology of a rotating table, which is equipped with a rather complex technical stuffing, but can be repeated by hand.


    This video tutorial from Igor Negoda's channel is dedicated to a homemade turntable, the details of which you see on the screen. The author of the video turned all these details on a lathe and did something on a milling machine. The table will be used in the video blog to demonstrate various small devices. Many have seen such designs on which it is convenient to shoot video and get a beautiful 3D effect. This device is self-sufficient, will have its own engine, its own battery and charger. That is, it will be possible to connect to a PC and charge.

    Various interesting things and spare parts are sold with free shipping in this Chinese store.

    Table assembly process


    Turntable

    In order, as the master did everything, and we will slowly collect.
    The manufacturing process of the rotating table was very long, that is, intermittently, there were not enough details. And the biggest problem was with the gears. That is, I picked up different gears, set it up for a long time, I even thought of abandoning the idea of ​​​​making this turntable with the existing gears. But now that the product is ready, you can assemble and show you how it looks and works. This is the main part, it is made of aluminum, everything is milled here.

    Let's start the assembly. Here in the middle there is a place for bearings. Ball bearings will be used. Took it apart and cleaned everything very well. If you gently press, then everything is inserted by hand. One bearing needs to be slightly lubricated with panasonic oil. We insert the second bearing, climbed into the mine. It also needs a little lubrication. These bearings are needed so that the minitable can rotate. A thrust bearing is inserted from above. This is the denser part. And this is a part. Which will rotate, it has a slightly smaller diameter. Now if you put a table here, it will rotate.

    Now let's try to assemble the mechanism. The brass pulley was also made on a lathe and the bearing was pressed here, it sticks out a little, because the design is different, but it does not fit here. Either here it was necessary to make a larger pulley, which would increase the revolutions of the rotation table, or it is necessary to redo it. Since I did it gradually, I had to adjust and redo it all the time.

    This pulley is made under the belts and is attached to the hole. An additional washer is inserted here and you can tighten it. Having previously lubricated, we fasten the drive gear.

    The washer is also brass and is put in place. To ensure the transition from belts to gears, an adapter pulley is used. With it, rotation will be transmitted to this gear.
    This table is placed at the very last moment, after the electric motor is installed. It is already assembled together with the power supply circuit. There is a switch here, you can hear the engine running.

    Let's collect the body parts. Although we need the engine to understand exactly where the switch should be, since it is already soldered. You need to know this very precisely.

    It often happens that the thrust bearing flies out and in the future we fix it thoroughly.

    Flip the table back. A decorative ring is installed on top and pressed with screws. I cut a thread specifically for the ring.
    This system is assembled, for now you can turn the table over and already thoroughly mount the engine, attach the electrician. The engine is tightly inserted, it will be possible to adjust the height.

    Electrician

    The charger is glued with double tape. First you need to degrease the surface, otherwise the adhesive tape simply will not stick. The charging board can be immediately attached to the case. Now we fix the battery in the same way. Two strips of adhesive tape is enough for him to hold on tight and not fall off over time. When heated, it does not disappear, it keeps well. It remains the case for small - to fix the switch.

    Electricity assembled. We turn on the switch - the motor rotates. The engine must be set in height. There is one nuance. We need to remove this ring now, because we won’t be able to put the belt in here. You need to put it well so that there are no distortions. And the second belt is put on. Also back ring. The mechanism is ready. If we turn on the lever, everything here rotates.

    It remains to set the table. To do this, insert the bearing and table back. This is not the final version yet. From above, you can swap decorative tables. Screwed on at the bottom to keep it from falling out. Similar countertops will be used on top, or as they are called interchangeable tables. It will be possible to make wood for wooden products or create some kind of contrast. Pay attention to how it is installed, like on an air cushion, that is, it is very tightly made

    Turntable assembled. Can be turned on, works and rotates. The turntable makes a little noise, so I put in a backing pad. This turned out to be a device. Although the degree of reduction here is high - the gearbox is four-stage. But still, the speed of work turned out to be too big. But in fact, the video can be slowed down, and as you like. For such purposes, a rotating table was created.

    The device has a power bank charging module, a small scarf. It can charge 3.7V lithium-ion batteries. We take a powerful power bank and try to charge. The charge has gone. In this case, the table can be connected. Turn off. The red one disappears.

    Conclusion

    The master plans to improve the model, since the load capacity is quite high, and the rotation speed does not suit him very much. Although you can slow down the video, but I would like it to spin much more slowly. You can supplement the motor with a speed controller, but then the load capacity will be even less. Subscribe to the channel "Igor Negoda".

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