Do-it-yourself coils for deep search. Do-it-yourself deep metal detector. Appearance of the finished metal detector Pirat

A device that allows you to search for metal objects located in a neutral environment, for example, soil, due to their conductivity is called a metal detector (metal detector). This device allows you to find metal objects in various environments, including in the human body.

Largely due to the development of microelectronics, metal detectors, which are produced by many enterprises around the world, have high reliability and small overall weight characteristics.

Not so long ago, such devices could most often be seen with sappers, but now they are used by rescuers, treasure hunters, public utilities workers when searching for pipes, cables, etc. Moreover, many "treasure hunters" use metal detectors that they assemble with their own hands .

The design and principle of operation of the device

Metal detectors on the market operate on different principles. Many believe that they use the principle of pulsed echo or radar. Their difference from locators lies in the fact that the transmitted and received signals operate constantly and simultaneously, in addition, they operate at the same frequencies.

Devices operating on the principle of "reception-transmission" register the signal reflected (re-radiated) from a metal object. This signal appears due to the impact on a metal object of an alternating magnetic field, which is generated by the metal detector coils. That is, the design of devices of this type provides for the presence of two coils, the first is transmitting, the second is receiving.

Devices of this class have the following advantages:

• simplicity of design;
• great ability to detect metallic materials.

At the same time, metal detectors of this class have certain disadvantages:

• metal detectors can be sensitive to the composition of the soil in which they search for metal objects.
• technological difficulties in the production of the product.

In other words, devices of this type must be configured by hand before operation.

Other devices are sometimes referred to as a beat detector. This name comes from the distant past, more precisely from the time when superheterodyne receivers were widely used. Beating is a phenomenon that becomes noticeable when two signals with close frequencies and equal amplitudes are summed. The beating consists in pulsing the amplitude of the summed signal.

The pulse frequency of the signal is equal to the difference in the frequencies of the summed signals. By passing such a signal through a rectifier, it is also called a detector, the so-called difference frequency is isolated.

Such a scheme was used for a long time, but today, it is not used. They were replaced by synchronous detectors, but the term remained in use.

The beat metal detector works using the following principle - it registers the frequency difference from two generator coils. One frequency is stable, the second contains an inductor.

The device is set up by hand so that the generated frequencies match or at least are close. As soon as metal enters the coverage area, the set parameters change and the frequency changes. The frequency difference can be recorded in many ways, ranging from headphones to digital methods.

Devices of this class are characterized by a simple sensor design, low sensitivity to the mineral composition of the soil.

But besides this, during their operation it is necessary to take into account the fact that they have high energy consumption.

Typical design

The structure of the metal detector includes the following components:

1. The coil is a box-type design, it houses the receiver and transmitter of the signal. Most often, the coil has an elliptical shape and polymers are used for its manufacture. A wire is connected to it, connecting it to the control unit. This wire transmits the signal from the receiver to the control unit. The transmitter generates a signal when metal is detected, which is transmitted to the receiver. The coil is installed on the lower rod.
2. The metal part on which the coil is fixed and its angle of inclination is adjusted is called the lower rod. Thanks to this solution, a more thorough examination of the surface occurs. There are models in which the lower part can adjust the height of the metal detector and provides a telescopic connection with the rod, which is called the middle one.
3. The middle shaft is the node located between the lower and upper shafts. Fixing devices are fixed on it, allowing you to adjust the size of the device. on the market you can find models that consist of two rods.
4. The top bar is usually curved. It resembles the letter S. This form is considered optimal for fixing it on the hand. An armrest, a control unit and a handle are installed on it. The armrest and handle are made of polymeric materials.
5. The metal detector control unit is required to process the data received from the coil. After the signal is converted, it is sent to headphones or other means of indication. In addition, the control unit is designed to adjust the operating mode of the device. The wire from the coil is connected using a quick-release device.

All devices included in the metal detector are waterproof.

This is the relative simplicity of the design and allows you to make metal detectors with your own hands.

Varieties of metal detectors

The market offers a wide range of metal detectors used in many areas. Below is a list that shows some of the varieties of these devices:

Most modern metal detectors can find metal objects at a depth of up to 2.5 m, special deep products can detect a product at a depth of up to 6 meters.

Operating frequency

The second parameter is the frequency of operation. The thing is that low frequencies allow the metal detector to see to a fairly large depth, but they are not able to see small details. High frequencies allow you to notice small objects, but do not allow viewing the ground to a great depth.

The simplest (budget) models operate at one frequency, models that are classified as average price levels use 2 or more frequencies in operation. There are models that use 28 frequencies when searching.

Modern metal detectors are equipped with such a function as metal discrimination. It allows you to distinguish the type of material located at depth. At the same time, when ferrous metal is detected, one sound will sound in the searcher's headphones, and another when non-ferrous metal is detected.

Such devices are referred to as pulse-balanced. They use frequencies from 8 to 15 kHz in their work. Batteries of 9 - 12 V are used as a source.

Devices of this class are able to detect a gold object at a depth of several tens of centimeters, and ferrous metal products at a depth of about 1 meter or more.

But, of course, these parameters depend on the device model.

How to assemble a homemade metal detector with your own hands

There are many models of devices on the market for searching for metal in the ground, walls, etc. Despite its external complexity, making a metal detector with your own hands is not so difficult and almost anyone can do it. As noted above, any metal detector consists of the following key components - a coil, a decoder and a power supply signaling device.

To assemble such a metal detector with your own hands, you need the following set of elements:

• controller;
• resonator;
• capacitors of various types, including film ones;
• resistors;
• sound emitter;
• Voltage regulator.

The simplest do-it-yourself metal detector

The metal detector circuit is not complicated, and you can find it either in the vastness of the global network, or in specialized literature. Above is a list of radio elements that are useful for assembling a metal detector with your own hands at home. A simple metal detector can be assembled with your own hands using a soldering iron or another available method. The main thing at the same time, the parts should not touch the body of the device. To ensure the operation of the assembled metal detector, power supplies of 9-12 volts are used.

To wind the coil, a wire with a cross-sectional diameter of 0.3 mm is used, of course, this will depend on the selected circuit. By the way, the wound coil must be protected from the effects of extraneous radiation. To do this, it is screened with your own hands using ordinary food foil.

To flash the controller, special programs are used, which can also be found on the Internet.

Metal detector without chips

If a novice "treasure hunter" has no desire to get involved with microcircuits, there are schemes without them.

There are simpler circuits based on the use of traditional transistors. Such a device can find metal at a depth of several tens of centimeters.

Deep metal detectors are used to search for metals at great depths. But it is worth noting that they are not cheap and therefore it is quite possible to assemble it with your own hands. But before you start making it, you need to understand how a typical circuit works.

The scheme of a deep metal detector is not the simplest and there are several options for its execution. Before assembling it, it is necessary to prepare the following set of parts and elements:

• capacitors of various types - film, ceramic, etc .;
• resistors of different ratings;
• semiconductors - transistors and diodes.

Nominal parameters, quantity depend on the selected circuit diagram of the device. To assemble the above elements, you will need a soldering iron, a set of tools (screwdriver, pliers, wire cutters, etc.), material for making the board.

The process of assembling a deep metal detector is approximately as follows. First, a control unit is assembled, the basis of which is a printed circuit board. It is made from textolite. Then the assembly scheme is transferred directly to the surface of the finished board. After the drawing has been transferred, the board must be etched. To do this, use a solution that includes hydrogen peroxide, salt, electrolyte.

After the board is etched, holes must be made in it to install the circuit components. After the board has been tinned. The most important step is coming. Do-it-yourself installation and soldering of parts on a prepared board.

To wind the coil with your own hands, use a wire of the PEV brand with a diameter of 0.5 mm. The number of turns and the diameter of the coil depend on the chosen scheme of the deep metal detector.

A little about smartphones

There is an opinion that it is quite possible to make a metal detector from a smartphone. This is not true! Yes, there are applications that install under the Android OS.

But in fact, after installing such an application, he will really be able to find metal objects, but only pre-magnetized ones. He will not be able to search and, moreover, discriminate against metals.

Metal detector Pirate- this is a pulse metal detector that does not contain expensive and programmable parts, after assembly in almost all cases it does not need to be adjusted and has a very high repeatability. Because of this, he gained popularity among beginners.

Characteristics of the Pirate metal detector:

• Supply voltage - 9 to 12 V

• Current consumption - 30-70 mA;

• Coin detection depth - up to 25 cm;

• Large metal - up to 1.5 meters.

• Audible target indication

To power the device, it is recommended to use a 12V battery or li-ion with a step-up DC-DC converter. When checking at home, you can power it from a 9-12V power supply. The depth of detection depends on the quality of the assembly, the size of the searchcoil and other factors. Here are the characteristics declared by the developer for the device assembled according to his instructions. To assemble the metal detector, we will use kits for self-assembly of the Pirate metal detector from our online store: and .

Assembly materials and tools:

- Case for block MD
- Housing for coil MD
- food and
- Soldering iron, solder, flux, alcohol
- Glue gun;
- Epoxy resin
- screwdriver, other tool for encasing our MD

Appearance of the finished metal detector Pirat

Scheme, metal detector parts list .

Appearance of the assembled boardmetal detector Pirate

You can buy a finished Pirate board in our online store by clicking on

Metal detector board assembly process:

• install electrical components on the board referring to the wiring diagram

• soldering components using priming and flux

• we bite off the conclusions of the soldered electronic components, wash the board with alcohol

Do-it-yourself Pirate metal detector coil:

As an example, we will make a coil with a diameter of 30 cm, as this size is universal, suitable for searching for both small items - coins and larger items - scrap metal and WWII items. Using the table or in the Coil32 program, we determine the number of turns for our coil, the result should be a resistance of 2 ohms, an inductance of 400 μH, we use a stranded copper wire from the coil to the block, with a diameter of at least 2 * 0.75 mm

With the help of a round improvised object (pot, bucket), we wind 20 turns of wire, leaving 2 ends of 5 cm each. so that nothing sticks out we fix it with hot glue.

The last step is to fill the coil with epoxy resin following the manufacturer's instructions. After a day, when the resin has completely cured, you can use our coil for its intended purpose.

The coil can also be made from a twisted pair, as described in the article on

Pirate metal detector setup

After soldering, the pirate metal detector does not need any special settings. After turning on, you need to wait about 10 seconds until the sound appears, after trimming resistors R12, R13 to make clicks appear, then turn R13 a little in the opposite direction - this will be the maximum sensitivity. That's all, as it turned out, making a pirate metal detector with your own hands is not so and difficult, even a person who is far from electronics will cope with this task.

The Pirate metal detector circuit is very popular and understandable even to a beginner radio amateur. The Pirate metal detector has quite good characteristics, despite the simplicity of the circuit and the availability of parts. It is easy to assemble, in an evening, it does not require any settings or firmware, it starts working immediately after assembly! Below I will present detailed instructions for assembling the Pirate metal detector!

Specifications MD Pirate:

Current consumption 30-40 mA
Supply voltage 9-14 volts
No discrimination, reacts to all metals
Sensitivity coin 25 millimeters - 20 cm
Large metal objects - 150 cm

Nutrition:

The Pirat metal detector requires a voltage of 9-14 volts. You can use ordinary batteries or AA batteries or two crowns connected in parallel, but I would advise you to spend some money and buy a battery for an uninterruptible power supply, it can be easily mounted on a metal detector rod and the charge will last for a long time. You can also use a battery from a screwdriver, by the way, at first, I used it!

Coil:

The search coil for the Pirate metal detector is also easy to make. Wound on a frame 190 mm. and contains 25 turns of PEV wire 0.5 mm. The coil can be wound on an embroidery hoop, by the way, this method is quite common. Personally, I take an ordinary pan, wind a coil on it and tighten it all with electrical tape, then I make a frame out of thin plywood and fix it on it. Here, as they say, to each his own, to whom it is convenient.

Required details:

Pirate metal detector scheme:

The pirate metal detector consists of a transmitting and receiving nodes. The transmitting node consists of a pulse generator, which is assembled on an NE555 chip and a powerful key, on an IRF740 transistor. The receiving node consists of a K157UD2 chip and a BC547 transistor.

In fact, the details are quite common, but if you still couldn’t find them, try using analogues. The NE555 timer can be replaced with a domestic analog KR1006VI1. Instead of the IRF740 transistor, you can put any bipolar NPN structure with N ke not lower than 200 volts, you can even drop it from an energy-saving lamp or charging from a phone, in extreme cases, even KT817 will do. Transistors BC557 and BC547, for domestic KT3107 and KT3102. The K157UD2 operational amplifier has a complete analogue of the KR1434UD1V, it can also be replaced with an imported TL072, but in this case, you will need to redo the board pinout, since it has 8 legs. I also have a Pirate metal detector on TL072, the circuit and the board are in the general archive. By the way, the pulse generator can also be assembled on transistors:

A little about the details:

Pirate metal detector assembly:

To get started, of course, you need to prepare a fee. To do this, open the Sprint-Layout program and print the blank of our future board, then transfer the drawing in any convenient way to the prepared board, etch it and drill holes for the parts. I use LUT technology, although I don’t have a laser printer, I do it at work.

But when it is not possible to print on a laser printer, you can make a drawing on an inkjet printer, then cut off the fiberglass of the desired shape, attach the drawing to the board and mark the holes with a sharp object, then drill and draw the tracks manually with a permanent marker. Well, or through a carbon copy to translate.

Be sure to clean the board with fine sandpaper and degrease with acetone before applying the pattern, so the image will translate well and the etching process will be faster and more reliable. After the board is etched, it is necessary to erase the toner or marker again with acetone and rub it a little with sandpaper.

Then we take a soldering iron and tin the tracks with tin. After tinning, be sure to wipe off excess rosin with acetone in order to avoid problems in the future. If desired, you can ring the tracks.

Now you need to solder all the details on the board. To do this, we also open the signet in the Sprint-Layout program and see where which parts are located. I strongly advise you to put IC sockets, just in case. First of all, solder the jumpers, there are 2 of them in the circuit, and one is under the NE555 chip, so if you forget about it, it will be difficult to find a malfunction, because I'm sure you won't remember these jumpers! As a jumper, legs from resistors are suitable.

When all the details are in place, it remains only to solder the taps to the variable resistors, coil, speaker and power.

The coil, as I said above, is wound on a rim 19-22 cm and contains 25 turns. To search for smaller objects, you can wind a coil of less than 15 cm - 17 turns or 10 cm - 13 turns. To search for ferrous metal, of course, it is better to use a coil with a diameter of 19 cm.

I want to say a few words about the tone of the sound. He seemed too rude to me. You can change the tone by selecting capacitor C1, I replaced it with 47nf and the sound became higher.

It is better to take a speaker of the type 3GDSH TRYD 4070-02 8Ohm so the sound will be much more powerful, I replaced the old speaker in my metal detector with it. Also, the speakers from the headphones do a very good job.

A link to the circuit board, as well as a list of parts needed to assemble the Pirate, which can be bought very cheaply on AliExpress with free shipping, are at the end of the video article!

And finally, a video of the work of the Pirate metal detector:

If you do not have enough detection depth in a metal detector, then you can increase it in several ways.

Method one. Make sure your metal detector is set up correctly. To do this, limit the influence of electromagnetic radiation as much as possible (turn off your mobile phone, move away from power lines, etc.). Then, do ground balancing - for each metal detector it has its own algorithm of actions. After that, you can set the sensitivity of the device to the maximum and, if there is a threshold tone, increase it too.

Many users of the popular Garrett 250 metal detector do not know that this device has automatic detuning from the influence of ground mineralization. It is carried out simply - you need to put the coil on a clean place and turn on the metal detector. After this simple but necessary procedure, the detector will “see” deeper and “feel” more accurately.

It will not be superfluous to supply charged power sources, because many devices (the same Garrett 250) lose depth due to dead batteries.

Method two. Improve the search sensor of the metal detector. To do this, we need to purchase it additionally. Necessarily, the new coil must be of a larger diameter than the native one. For example, one of the most popular at the moment is the Nel Tornado 12x13 inch coil. It gives up to twenty percent increase in target detection depth. Also, there are larger sensors on the market (fifteen inch) with a frequency of three kilohertz. It is this (low) frequency, combined with the size, that will give the maximum depth gain to your metal detector.

The third way. Searching with a metal detector. In order to be able to find the find as deep as possible, you need to move slowly and drive the search sensor above the ground. It is better to search with headphones and listen carefully to each signal. Such a search will be effective on a territory that is not littered with various metal pieces.

By following these methods in various combinations, it is possible to achieve the detection of a valuable find by a metal detector at a maximum depth.

If you want to increase the effectiveness of your searches, then it will not be superfluous to read http://vremenami.com/ - the blog of the Young Seeker. There is collected search experience that can be useful to you in your search for valuable coins and artifacts.

If you do not have enough detection depth in a metal detector, then you can increase it in several ways. Method one. Make sure your metal detector is set up correctly. To do this, limit the influence of electromagnetic radiation as much as possible (turn off your mobile phone, move away from power lines, etc.). Then, do ground balancing - for each metal detector it has its own algorithm of actions. After that, you can set the sensitivity of the device to the maximum and, if there is a threshold tone, increase it too. Many users of the popular Garrett 250 metal detector do not know that this device has automatic detuning from the influence of ground mineralization. It is carried out simply - you need to put the coil in a clean place and ...

Clone PI-W and, now, it came to the manufacture of a mono search coil. And since I am currently experiencing some financial difficulties, I faced a difficult task - to make the coil myself from the cheapest possible materials.

Looking ahead, I’ll say right away that I coped with the task. As a result, I got this sensor:

By the way, the resulting coil-ring is perfect not only for Clone, but also for almost any other impulse device (Koschei, Tracker, Pirate).

I'll go into great detail, because the devil is often in the details. Moreover, there are a dime a dozen short stories of making coils on the Internet (like, we take this, then we cut it off, wrap it, glue it and that's it!) And you start doing it yourself and it turns out that the most important was mentioned in passing, and something was forgotten to be said at all ... And it turns out that everything is more complicated than it seemed at the very beginning.

This will not happen here. Ready? Go!

idea

The easiest way for self-production seemed to me such a design: we take a disk from sheet material with a thickness of ~ 4-6 mm. The diameter of this disk is determined by the diameter of the future winding (in my case it should be 21 cm).

Then we glue two discs of a slightly larger diameter to this pancake on both sides, so that we get, as it were, a bobbin for winding the wire. Those. such a coil, greatly enlarged in diameter, but flattened in height.

For clarity, I will try to depict this in the drawing:

I hope the main idea is clear. Just three discs glued together over the entire area.

Material selection

As a material, I planned to take plexiglass. It is perfectly processed and glued with dichloroethane. But, unfortunately, I could not find it for free.

All kinds of collective farm materials such as plywood, cardboard, bucket lids, etc. I immediately discarded as unsuitable. I wanted something strong, durable and preferably waterproof.

And then my eyes turned to fiberglass ...

It's no secret that from fiberglass (or from glass mat, fiberglass) do whatever your heart desires. Even motor boats and car bumpers. The fabric is impregnated with epoxy resin, give it the desired shape and leave until completely cured. It turns out a durable, waterproof, easily recycled material. And this is just what we need.

So, we need to make three pancakes and ears for attaching the bar.

Production of individual parts

Pancakes #1 and #2

Calculations showed that to obtain a sheet with a thickness of 5.5 mm, 18 layers of fiberglass should be taken. To reduce the consumption of epoxy, it is better to cut the fiberglass in advance into circles of the required diameter.

For a disk with a diameter of 21 cm, 100 ml of epoxy was just enough.

Each layer must be thoroughly smeared, and then the entire stack should be put under the press. The more pressure, the better - the excess resin will be squeezed out, the mass of the final product will become a little less, and the strength will be a little more. I loaded about a hundred kilograms from above and left it until the morning. The next day I got this pancake:

This is the most massive part of the future coil. He weighs - be healthy!

Then I’ll tell you how, due to this spare part, it will be possible to significantly reduce the weight of the finished sensor.

A disk 23 cm in diameter and 1.5 mm thick was made in exactly the same way. Its mass is 89 g.

Pancake №3

The third disk did not have to be glued. At my disposal was a sheet of fiberglass of a suitable size and thickness. It was a printed circuit board from some ancient device:

Unfortunately, the board had metalized holes, so I had to spend some time drilling them.

I decided that this would be the top disk, so I made a hole in it for the cable entry.

Ears for bar

The rest of the textolite was just enough for the ears to attach the sensor housing to the rod. I sawed out two pieces for each ear (to be strong!)

In the ears, you must immediately drill holes for the plastic bolt, since then it will be very inconvenient to do this.

By the way, this is a fixing bolt for the toilet seat.

So, all the components of our coil are ready. It remains to glue it all into one big sandwich. And do not forget to bring the cable inside.

Assembling into one

First, the upper disc of perforated fiberglass was glued together with the middle pancake of 18 layers of fiberglass. It took literally a few milliliters of epoxy - this was enough to coat both surfaces to be glued over the entire area.

Ear mounting

I cut the grooves with a jigsaw. In one place, of course, I overdid it a little:

To make the ears fit well, I made a small bevel at the edges of the cuts:

Now it was necessary to decide which option is better? Ears can be put in different ways ...

Coils of industrial production are often made according to the right option, but I like the left one more. I tend to make the wrong decisions...

In theory, the right way is better balanced, because the rod mount is closer to the center of gravity. But it is far from a fact that after lightening the coil, its center of gravity will not shift in one direction or another.

The left method of fastening purely visually looks more pleasant (IMHO), besides, in this case, the total length of the folded metal detector will be a couple of centimeters less. For someone who plans to carry the device in a backpack, this may be important.

In general, I made my choice and proceeded to gluing. I generously smeared it with bauxite, securely fixed it in the desired position and left it to harden:

After hardening, everything sticking out from the back side was sanded with sandpaper:

Cable entry

Then, using a round file, I prepared grooves for the conductors, led the connecting cable through the hole and glued it tightly:

To prevent strong kinks, the cable at the entry point had to be somehow strengthened. For these purposes, I used, out of nowhere, taken from me, such a rubber bullshit:

In short, I planed a little fiberglass:

and coolly kneaded it with bauxite with the addition of ballpoint pen paste. The result was a viscous substance, similar to wet hair. With this composition, you can cover up any cracks without problems:

Pieces of fiberglass give the putty the necessary viscosity, and after hardening provide increased strength of the glue line.

In order for the mixture to be properly compacted, and the resin soaked the turns of the wire, I wrapped it all with electrical tape in an interference fit:

Electrical tape must be green or, at worst, blue.

After everything had cooled down, I was wondering how solid the construction turned out. It turned out that the coil can easily withstand my weight (about 80 kg).

In fact, we do not need such a heavy-duty coil, its weight is much more important. Too much mass of the sensor will definitely make itself felt with pain in the shoulder, especially if you plan to conduct a long search.

Lightweighting

To reduce the weight of the coil, it was decided to cut out some sections of the structure:

This manipulation allowed to throw off 168 grams of excess weight. At the same time, the strength of the sensor practically did not decrease, as can be seen from this video:

Now, in hindsight, I understand how it was possible to make the coil a little easier. To do this, it was necessary to make large holes in the middle pancake in advance (before gluing everything together). Something like this:

The voids inside the structure would have almost no effect on strength, but they would reduce the total mass by another 20-30 grams. Now, of course, it's too late to rush about, but I'll keep it in mind for the future.

Another way to simplify the design of the sensor is to reduce the width of the outer ring (where the wire turns are laid) by 6-7 millimeters. Of course, this can be done now, but so far there is no such need.

Finishing color

I found an excellent paint for fiberglass and fiberglass products - epoxy resin with the addition of a dye of the desired color. Since the entire construction of my sensor is based on bauxite, the resin-based paint will have excellent adhesion, and will lay down like a native.

I used PF-115 alkyd enamel as a black dye, adding it until the desired hiding power was obtained.

As practice has shown, a layer of such paint is held very firmly, and it looks as if the product has been dipped in liquid plastic:

In this case, the color can be any, depending on the enamel used.

The final mass of the search coil together with the cable after painting is 407 g

The cable separately weighs ~ 80 grams.

Examination

After our homemade metal detector coil was completely ready, it was necessary to check it for the absence of an internal break. The easiest way to check is to measure the resistance of the winding with a tester, which should normally be very low (maximum 2.5 ohms).

In my case, the resistance of the coil, together with two meters of the connecting cable, turned out to be around 0.9 ohms.

Unfortunately, in such a simple way it will not be possible to detect an interturn circuit, so you have to rely on your accuracy when winding. A short circuit, if any, will immediately manifest itself after the circuit is started - the metal detector will consume increased current and have an extremely low sensitivity.

Conclusion

So, I think that the task was completed successfully: I managed to make a very strong, water-resistant and not too heavy reel from the most junk materials. List of expenses:

• Fiberglass sheet 27 x 25 cm - free of charge;
• Fiberglass sheet, 2 x 0.7 m - free of charge;
• Epoxy resin, 200 g - 120 rubles;
• Enamel PF-115, black, 0.4 kg - 72 rubles;
• Winding wire PETV-2 0.71 mm, 100 g - 250 rubles;
• Connecting cable PVA 2x1.5 (2 meters) - 46 rubles;
• Cable entry - free of charge.

Now I am faced with the task of manufacturing exactly the same rogue rod. But it's already.