Plaster tinting. Proper application of decorative plaster with your own hands Textured plaster tinting
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)
Painting decorative plaster, on the one hand, is a fairly simple operation, but on the other hand, it contains quite a few nuances. Therefore, for beginners, this procedure raises many questions, ranging from the choice of paint, and ending with the technology of its application. Next, I will try to answer them in detail, which will allow you to qualitatively and beautifully paint the surface finished with plaster.
How to paint
For painting plaster, you can use the following coloring compositions:
- Paint that is applied over a textured surface.
- Dyes that are added to the building mixture before it is applied.
Choosing a paint
In our case, the best option is a water-based polymer paint. It has several important advantages:
- Forms a thin layer on the surface, so it does not affect the clarity of the picture.
- It dries quickly as polymerization occurs immediately after the water has evaporated.
- It does not have a sharp toxic odor, because it is an aqueous dispersion.
- Has excellent adhesion.
In addition, water-dispersion paint is quite durable. True, durability largely depends on the manufacturer. Therefore, you should not expect that a cheap composition will last a long time.
Please note that the scope of water-dispersion paint is different. Therefore, only its facade brands are suitable for outdoor use. For interior use, both facade and interior paint can be used.
Interior paint differs in the level of moisture resistance. This must be taken into account when choosing a coating for rooms with high humidity, such as a kitchen or bathroom.
As an example, I will give a few colors and their cost:
Choosing a dye
In order not to do extra work, i.e. painting, it is more expedient not to paint the plastered surface, but to add the dye directly to the mixture. The main thing, in this case, is to choose the right dye (color). If, for example, the plaster is based on cement, any pigment intended for concrete can be used.
If the plaster is polymer, acrylic color will do. In order not to select the composition, you can use a universal dye. They can paint not only decorative plaster, but also various other building mixtures, textured paint and other materials.
Below are the prices for dyes from different well-known manufacturers:
When calculating the required amount of coating, keep in mind that the consumption of paint applied to the textured surface will be 15-20 percent higher than that specified by the manufacturer.
Painting technology
Painting in one color
Painting plaster in one color is carried out as follows:
| Illustrations | Actions |
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Preparation of materials. For painting you will need the following materials and tools:
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Padding:
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Painting:
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Painting in one color with tint
If you decide to color the mixture with a tint, it is important to correctly calculate its amount in order to get the desired color. In some cases, to achieve a complex color, it is necessary to mix two or even three dyes.
In order not to make a mistake with the dye, first experiment on a small amount of plaster. Having achieved the desired color, remember the proportions of the mixture and dye. In these proportions, add color to the main part of the decorative plaster with which you are going to work. After that, the coating is applied according to the standard scheme.
Two-tone painting with a dry brush
Painting in two colors means highlighting the relief. As a rule, paint of the same color, but different tones, is used for this. Recesses are often painted with a darker paintwork, and embossed surfaces with a lighter one.
But, this is just one of the common options for two-tone painting. You can use other combinations as well. For example, a second coat of paint can be used to give the walls a sheen. In this case, you will need a bronze coating or, for example, silver.
In any case, an interesting result can be achieved by applying a second layer with a dry brush. The principle is based on the fact that a well-pressed brush or roller paints only the most convex surfaces of the finish.
As for the first layer, it can be applied by any of the methods described above. The main thing is to wait until it dries well.
Two-tone blur painting
This technique is the opposite of a dry brush. Its principle is based on the fact that the second layer of paintwork completely covers the first one, and then it is removed from the convex surfaces. As a result, the first layer appears.
Removing the second layer can be done in one of two ways:
- The freshly applied coating is gently rubbed with a damp sponge or cloth.
- After painting, it takes time until it dries completely, and then the surface is sanded.
The second method can only be used if the decorative plaster is tinted.
How to repaint decorative plaster
Any paint is not eternal, and it usually serves even less than the plaster itself. Therefore, over time, the question of its renewal arises. But how to do it correctly, because it is very difficult to remove the old paintwork from the relief surface?
Surface preparation technology depends on the water resistance of the paint. If the coating, for example, is facade or simply has good moisture resistance, then it does not need to be removed. It is enough to pre-clean the surface of dust / dirt, and then primed. The only thing is that it is desirable to prime with a pigment primer, which will paint over the plaster with white.
If the coating is not moisture resistant, it must be removed. To do this, wet the painted surface and wait a while. After that, the paintwork can be washed off with a sponge or cloth, abundantly moistened with water. An even more effective way is to use a steam generator, if one is available, of course.
Customer selects invoices at decorative plaster or paint. It can be decorative plaster CT 60 and CT 174 with the texture "Pebble", CT 64 and CT 175 with the texture "Bark beetle" or one of the types of paint CT 42, CT 44, CT 48 and CT 54. Then, the client chooses the color he wants facades from the Ceresit shade catalogs, which are priced according to the price list A B C D E.
After the client's consent and payment, the tinting process is carried out at the company's tinting station. Ceresit equipment. Color is added to the base chosen by the client, which has a white color, and after mixing in a shaker, the desired color is obtained. Tinting process plasters and paints Ceresit takes on average 2 minutes for 1 bank.
Our Ceresitshop carries out the fastest coloring in Moscow on the day of the order. In our shop-studio are the colors of the most common colors. If necessary, we we can make any color decorative plaster, which is not in the Ceresit brand catalog. In addition, we will help you choose the color of the facade, paint the desired texture and color on a large format. We will also show a master class of the tinting process.
Also we let's make a probe plaster in the amount of 5 kg, and you do not have to pay for the whole jar.
branded warranty Ceresit for fading of light colors - 50 years.
We will be happy to promptly advise and help with the choice and calculation of your facade!
Decorative plaster called "bark beetle" is now perhaps the most popular type of facade decoration. You can see it both on private houses and on public buildings, and in a variety of versions. In general, the application of bark beetle decorative plaster is distinguished by a simple technology, but there are certain nuances, without which it will not work to get the desired texture. What are these nuances, and how to independently learn such a finish, we will consider in detail in our article.
The material got its name because of the pattern that is obtained during the processing of the coating: the texture resembles wood, which has been eroded by bark beetles. With proper application, this coating looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing, but it is worth making a mistake, and all decorativeness is lost.
The creation of a characteristic pattern is provided by small solid granules contained in the composition of the plaster mixture. Their size varies from 1 to 3.5 millimeters, and the greater the graininess, the more expressive the texture of the coating. Bark beetle plaster is made on a gypsum, cement and acrylic basis, and marble or mineral chips act as a filler. Acrylic compositions go on sale ready for use, gypsum - in the form of a dry mixture. As a rule, they all have a white color, but they can be tinted during the mixing process, as well as painted after being applied to the surface with facade paints.
Structural pattern of bark beetle plaster
The main characteristics of the material:
- after drying, the coating acquires high strength, due to which it can withstand light impacts, friction and other mechanical influences;
- plaster does not absorb moisture, tolerates atmospheric influences, temperature changes;
- the content of polymer components and mineral fillers makes the finished composition much lighter than conventional plaster, and this reduces the load on the facade structural elements;
- as part of this plaster there are no substances harmful to human health, therefore it is considered an environmentally friendly material;
- when properly applied under standard operating conditions, the coating lasts for years without deterioration in external qualities, if necessary, it can be easily restored;
- bark beetle plaster can be washed with water and soapy solutions, it is affected by mold and does not burn.
You can buy material at any hardware store, and at a very reasonable price. As for the disadvantages: the application process requires great care and does not tolerate haste. The pattern is very easy to smear with an extra movement of the tool, as a result of which, instead of nice grooves, you get the usual rough scratches on the surface of the plaster.
An example of finishing the facade with "bark beetle"
How to choose plaster
A huge number of manufacturers produce bark beetle plaster, but you need to focus not on brands, but on the type of composition, its grain size, and the pot life of the solution. Grit is the most important parameter, since it is it that sets the texture of the material and affects its consumption. The thickness of the plaster layer should be equal to the size of the filler granules, that is, the larger the granularity, the thicker the layer, which means the higher the consumption.
The next criterion is the type of composition. Ready-made plasters save time, are more plastic and easy to apply due to the content of special additives, but they are more expensive than dry mixes and cannot be stored. If you did not have time to use the entire volume of plaster, the rest will have to be thrown away - the frozen solution is unsuitable for work.
Dry mixes are cheaper, they can be prepared in the volume that is needed, the rest of the dry powder is perfectly stored in a closed package. The only difficulty here may be the preparation of the solution, but if you follow the instructions exactly, then the kneading process will not cause any difficulties.
Comparative table of plaster compositions "bark beetle" of various manufacturers
| Brand name | Characteristics | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Dry mix based on cement with mineral filler. Available in 2 fractions - 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm. The color palette includes, in addition to white, 7 pastel shades. The consumption rate is 2.5-4 kg/m2. Drying time 1 day, mortar setting time - 60 minutes. Packed in bags of 25 kg | From 670 rubles/bag |
| Ready-made composition based on silicone resin. The color palette includes 200 different shades. The grain size of the filler is 2 mm. The consumption rate is 2.7 kg/m2. Packed in buckets of 25 kg | From 2590 rubles/bucket |
| Dry cement mix with mineral granules of two fractions - 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm, white. The consumption rate is 1.5-3.5 kg/m2. The mixture is available in white and beige. The viability of the solution is 3 hours. Packed in bags of 25 kg | From 300 rubles/bag |
| Ready composition on acrylic binder. The grain size of the filler is 2 and 3 mm. The consumption rate of the mixture is 2.3-3.8 kg/m2. The main color is white, suitable for tinting. Packing - buckets of 25 kg | From 2850 rubles/bucket |
| Base - white cement, filler - dolomite chips. Available in two fractions - 1.5 mm and 2 mm. The viability of the solution is 2 hours, the consumption rate is 2-2.5 kg/m2. Packed in bags of 25 kg | From 465 rubles / bag |
| Composition based on white cement, filler - marble flour. Available in 2 fractions - 1.5 mm and 3 mm. The consumption rate is from 5 to 6.5 kg/m2. Drying time - from 2 to 3 days, solution viability time - 1 hour. The main color is white, packing - bags of 25 kg | From 450 rubles / bag |
| Cement dry mix, with mineral granules, is produced in 5 fractions - 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 mm. Colors are paintable white, super white and grey. The consumption rate is 1.5-3.3 kg/m2. It takes 2 days to dry, the pot life of the solution is 1 hour. Packed in bags of 25 kg | From 395 rubles/bag |
| Ready-made composition on silicone resins with mineral filler. Available in two fractions - 2 mm and 3 mm. The consumption rate of the mixture is from 2.8 to 3.9 kg / m2. Packing - bucket 25 kg | From 4630 rubles/bucket |
| Type of plaster - dry mix, filler - marble chips. Available in 3 fractions: 3.5 mm, 2.5 mm, 1.5 mm. The main color is white, suitable for tinting. Drying time is 24 hours, setting time of the solution is 3 hours. Consumption per m2 - from 2 to 4 kg. The service life of the coating is 10 years. Packed in bags of 25 kg | From 580 rubles/bag |
Plastering technology
The process of applying a decorative coating "bark beetle" consists of two main stages: the distribution of the mixture over the surface and the formation of a pattern using a tool. But before that, it is required to carefully prepare the base, because the adhesion strength of the plaster to the base and, as a result, the durability of the finish depends on this.
Preparatory stage
Decorative plaster should only be applied to dense and even surfaces that are not subject to shrinkage. Walls made of brick, concrete, cinder block are best suited for this, but for wooden houses it is preferable to choose other finishing methods. The basis for decorative plaster is usually a leveling cement plaster, which is applied to the walls themselves or to the insulation layer. In some cases, the bark beetle can be applied over facade paint.
So, first they clean the dust and dirt, remove oil stains with a solvent, clean and treat the areas affected by the fungus with an antiseptic. All grooves, cracks and chips are sealed with cement mortar. Next, they take a rule with a length of at least 2 m, and apply it to the wall in different places to check if there are any deviations from the plane. If the deviations are more than 2 mm, additional leveling with a plaster or putty mixture will be required.
A facade painted with oil paint should be thoroughly sanded with coarse sandpaper over the entire area, provided that the paint is firmly attached and has no defects.
After the base is cleaned and leveled, it is primed. Some master plasterers claim that it is not necessary to prime the exterior concrete and cement-sand bases, and simply moisten the surface with water before applying the plaster. This approach is incorrect, and leads to a reduction in the life of the coating, because it is the primer that strengthens the upper layers of the base and ensures high-quality adhesion of materials. It is desirable to use primers of the same brand as the plaster itself. As a rule, manufacturers indicate on the packaging of the "bark beetle" which primer is preferable to use.
Advice. For priming the surface, it is recommended to use strengthening compounds with quartz sand. They penetrate deep into the pores of the base, give water-repellent properties, maximize adhesion. If you plan to use tinted plaster, then the primer should also be tinted to match the finish so that the base does not shine through after the patterns are formed.
The primer is applied with a roller or brush, evenly treating the walls from top to bottom. This should be done in dry, warm weather, on a dry surface. One layer is enough for a solid base, 2 layers for a dust-forming one. After that, the walls should dry completely, on average, it takes 4 to 6 hours to dry.
Now you can apply plaster.
When choosing a dry mix, special attention should be paid to the preparation of the solution. If you do not yet have experience in plastering work, do the batch in small portions, since the plaster dries quickly, and you cannot dilute it with water. Read the instructions on the package, be sure to remember the proportions of water and dry powder, because the quality of the solution depends on it.
Step 1. They take a container for kneading (an ordinary 10-liter bucket will do), pour the indicated amount of water, the temperature of which should be in the range of 15-20 ° C, and gradually introduce the dry mixture. On average, 200-250 ml of water is required per 1 kg of the mixture.
Step 2 Mixing is carried out with a drill with a nozzle, since it is difficult to achieve a homogeneous consistency manually. You need to interfere at a low speed, completely immersing the mixer in the solution so that air bubbles do not form.
Step 3 After 2-3 minutes, when the solution becomes pasty and homogeneous, the mixer must be turned off and the plaster must be allowed to stand for about 5 minutes. Then it is mixed again and the application is started.
If you need to give the plaster a certain color, you should purchase the color of the desired shade in advance and add it when mixing the mortar. In this case, mix especially carefully so that all the pigment is dissolved, and there are no streaks and individual blotches left. Manufacturers recommend tinting only ready-made compositions based on acrylic and silicone, and painting plasters from dry mixes after drying with facade paints.
Video - Tinting decorative plaster "Bark beetle"
To apply the solution, you will need a metal trowel 30 cm long and a narrow metal spatula 10 cm wide.
We put the solution on a trowel
The solution is applied with a narrow spatula on a trowel, after which the tool is placed against the wall at an angle of 30 degrees and the plaster is distributed in a uniform thin layer over the thickness of the filler grain. Try to perform a minimum of movements in one area, and at all times maintain the same pressing force. It is most convenient to apply the mixture in narrow vertical stripes.
The next strip is applied so as to overlap the edge of the previous one by 5-7 mm. The solution must be stirred periodically, as the filler tends to settle to the bottom. In the process of work, it is impossible to allow the drying of individual sections, since the transitions will be visible this way. If the area is large, it is better to work together with an assistant: one person will apply the plaster, the second will knead new portions of the mortar.
Since the pattern is formed on wet plaster, each wall is processed separately from corner to corner. If you decide to first apply the solution to the entire facade, and then start grouting, you will not succeed, since the first sections will already be dry.
Texture formation
The creation of the pattern begins 10-20 minutes after application (depending on the composition of the mixture). The readiness of the plaster for grouting can be determined by the lack of gloss on the surface or by touching the wall with your hand - if the mixture does not stick to your palm, it's time to start grouting.
They take a plastic grater, apply it to the surface, press it a little and perform uniform movements in one direction. As with application, the walls are treated in sections with a width of no more than 1.5 meters. Movements should be accurate, there is no need to rush, and you can’t drive in one place several times. The joints of the two strips must be moistened with water.
If you do not have time to make one plane completely, take masking tape and stick it along the line where the plaster layer ends. Then apply a little mortar over the adhesive tape, form a pattern, and immediately remove the adhesive tape along with the remains of the plaster. When you can continue to work, the first step is to stick masking tape around the edge of the already dried plaster, and then proceed to apply the mortar. This technique will avoid overlapping layers, as a result of which the transition will be almost invisible.
There are many options for texture formation, the most popular of which are:
Coating finishing
It usually takes about 2 days to dry the plaster layer (look for the exact information on the packaging of the mixture), and before that no work can be done on the surface. After the specified time, it is advisable to grind the coating with the finest sandpaper in order to remove adhering crumbs of the solution and trim the surface. If acrylic tinted plaster was used, the finishing work is now complete.
When using a cement mixture to increase decorativeness, painting is performed. Water-soluble paints based on silicone and acrylic are best suited here. So, after grinding, the walls are cleaned of dust and treated with a deep penetration primer in one layer. After the surface has dried, it is time to paint. If you prefer to paint with a roller or brush, choose tools with a long pile - this will allow you to paint over all the recesses and grooves with high quality. Apply the paint in two layers - the first with vertical strokes, the second with horizontal strokes.
Painting plaster "bark beetle"
Finishing the facade with plaster should be carried out at temperatures from +5°С to +30°С and air humidity not exceeding 60%. Only under such conditions will the quality of the coating correspond to the specified characteristics. That is why it is necessary to start finishing in dry, warm weather and preferably calm. Strong wind, as well as direct sunlight, negatively affects the plaster, contributes to its cracking. If during the day the facade is under direct sunlight, apply the plaster in the late afternoon so that the coating can harden and dry sufficiently overnight.
It is better for beginners to start from the most inconspicuous part of the wall, since not everyone can immediately accurately apply a drawing, and it is no longer possible to correct flaws on dry plaster. It is advisable to choose paint, primer and decorative putty from the same manufacturer - this guarantees maximum compatibility of materials and the quality of the coating.
Video - Applying decorative plaster bark beetle
Video - Methods for applying texture
The colors of our materials are selected individually. The tinting of PRATTA Exclusive materials is carried out semi-automatically, by individual selection of color and tone, or by an automated method according to the international RAL or NCS color system.
Tinting is done on Italian tinting machines. The color formula is stored in a database, which allows you to prepare additional material for repairing damaged coatings even after many years.
How to color plaster
For the most accurate selection of the color of finishing materials, there are several basic methods.
1 Choosing the color of the decorative coating from the catalog
Our designers and technologists have selected and tested many of the most suitable colors for each material. Many hundreds of successful combinations of texture and color of the material are presented in the form of decorative tablets (paints) or catalogs.
In Pratta Exclusive showrooms, you can choose the appropriate option in the catalog. According to the sample number, a coating of exactly the same color will be prepared for you.
2
Choosing the color of the plaster according to the color palette
The widest choice of colors can be made using the color palette. The standard palettes of RAL and NCS include more than 5000 colors, each of which we can accurately reproduce. An important feature of the use of standard colors is the ability to match the standard color to the finish of furniture and other interior elements.
In our salons you can choose the tone and shade that best reflects your idea.
3
Painting of decorative plaster
To be completely convinced of the correct choice of color, test colors of the material allow. Our technologists apply the required material to the substrate sheet with all the texture and color features specified by the customer. The test color is transferred to the customer and allows you to evaluate all the nuances of the texture and color of the decorative surface directly on the object, taking into account the lighting conditions and the scale of the room.
After selecting the material, the color is the standard for controlling the application of the material.
4
The most budget way
The plaster can also be tinted independently, immediately before application. The selected colorant is added to the container and mixed thoroughly. Colorants and tinting instructions are provided for each specific material.
In this case, it is impossible to reproduce the shade exactly, but you can get a completely satisfactory result for many interiors.
Default by price by price ↓ By name By name ↓
ROCKdecorsil S 1.5mm - decorative, silicone, piece, granular.
ROCKdecorsil S 2.0mm - decorative, silicone, piece, granular.
ROCKdecorsil D 1.5mm - decorative, silicone, piece, grooved.
ROCKdecorsil D 2.0mm - decorative, silicone, piece, grooved.
Five questions about the construction of plaster facades
The facade is the visiting card of the house. Where, if not in the exterior, you can show all your creativity and imagination? There are many decoration options: siding, tiles, facing bricks. But one of the most attractive has always been and remains plaster. It allows you to create a unique play of colors and textures and implement a variety of style solutions.
At the request of the developer of a multi-storey building or the owner of a cottage, the building can turn into either a wonderful mansion of the mid-19th century, or a bright, laconic Scandinavian house, or an amazing art object. True, it is worth considering that the technology for installing plaster (or, as they are also called, “wet”) facades is quite time-consuming. The owner of real estate faces a number of issues that require certain knowledge and increased attention. Competent answers to them will help create a beautiful facade that will please the eye for many years.
Question one. What does the term "stucco system" mean?
The plaster system resembles a multi-layered "clothes" for the house. It consists of:
1) primer for building base;
2) glue for fixing thermal insulation;
3) insulation boards;
4) facade dowels for additional fastening;
5) reinforcing adhesive composition;
6) fiberglass mesh;
7) primer primer;
8) decorative plaster;
9) facade paint (if necessary).
Obviously, the performance of the entire system depends on the quality of each component, and it is important not to make a mistake when choosing the main components of the "wet" facade.
Question two. What insulation do you prefer?
In plaster systems, as a rule, stone wool or expanded polystyrene is used as thermal insulation. It should be noted that most materials made of expanded polystyrene have a low vapor permeability coefficient. 1
, that is, the house will be "not breathing", which may require the installation of powerful and expensive ventilation systems. In addition, expanded polystyrene refers to combustible materials. 2
, therefore, in accordance with current regulations, when using it, it is recommended to carry out fire-prevention cuts from non-combustible insulation at the frame of windows and doors. Such a solution, by the way, will partially improve the vapor permeability of the structure.
One of the most popular materials is stone wool. This is a product of natural origin, created on the basis of basalt rocks. Stone wool is environmentally friendly, and its fibers can withstand temperatures up to 10,000C, which allows the heat-insulating layer to act as a barrier to the spread of fire. Over the years, such insulation does not shrink or deform, which makes it one of the most durable on the market - for example, ROCKFASAD slabs from ROCKWOOL will last at least 50 years 3 . The product was created specifically for the installation of "wet" facades in private houses: the material has an optimal density for applying plaster, provides high heat and sound insulating properties and is biostable, i.e. not suitable as food for rodents and insects and does not promote the growth of fungus and mold.
Question three. How to choose system components?
All materials included in the "wet" facade system must be combined according to their characteristics: thermal expansion, water absorption, frost resistance and vapor permeability. This is the only way to create a reliable and durable plaster system. Otherwise, when using incompatible components, the facade may begin to quickly collapse, and additional repair costs will be required.
To avoid problems, the construction industry advises to give preference to certified system solutions from a single supplier. These include, for example, the ROCKFACADE system from ROCKWOOL. It consists mainly of mineral components (heat-insulating stone wool slabs, cement-sand adhesive and reinforcing mixtures, water-dispersion paints, etc.), which ensures the incombustibility of the system, high vapor permeability and no restrictions in use.
The ROCKWOOL website has an online calculator for calculating the ROCKFACADE system. It allows you to take into account all the features of the cottage: the shape of windows and doorways, their overall dimensions, the number of corners of the building, the presence of balconies and loggias, etc. After the calculations, the program will give you how many and what components are needed to construct the facade.
Question four. What plaster do you prefer?
The market offers solutions for a wide variety of projects. A hint table with basic types of plasters will help you choose the right one (at the end of the article, see the note S hop-Facade, regarding the following table):
Question five. In what order should work be carried out?
Installation of wet facades is a process that requires professionalism, great accuracy and careful observance of technological regulations. In particular, all work is carried out at temperatures not lower than +50C and not higher than +300C. At the time of installation of the "wet" system, it will be necessary to protect it from precipitation and direct sunlight: for this, scaffolding with a special mesh is installed. Also, before installing the facade, internal “wet” processes, roofing, filling window and door openings, fixing brackets for air conditioners, video cameras, etc. must be completed. When the preparation is over, you can start the main work.
First you need to prepare the base: it must be strong and clean, the surface of the walls with irregularities of more than ± 10 mm must be leveled;
- After preparing the base, the base profile is fixed. It is necessary as a leveling element when gluing insulation, as well as to protect the lower part of the plate from external influences. The plinth profile is mounted at a height of at least 60 cm above ground level;
- Heat-insulating stone wool slabs are mounted with offset seams (like brickwork). Before applying the bulk of the adhesive to the insulation, it is necessary to rub a small amount of the composition into the surface of the plate to ensure the best adhesion. 4
;
- After the glue has dried (about three days), mechanical fastening is carried out with dowels: at least 6 pcs. per square meter;
- In parts of the building that are particularly subject to various loads (external corners, tops of openings, adjoining slopes to blocks of openings, etc.), special profiles are installed for additional reinforcement;
- A basic plaster solution is applied to the insulation using a trowel with 10x10 mm teeth, into which a reinforcing mesh is embedded. Cloths must have an overlap of at least 10 cm. The mesh is embedded so that it is in the upper third of the plaster layer;
- As soon as the base plaster layer dries, the surface of the facade can be primed. After the primer has dried, decorative plaster is applied with the smooth side of the trowel. On it, depending on the texture, a decorative pattern is created with a plastic grater. The total minimum thickness of the protective-decorative and base layers is 6 mm;
- If necessary, the surface is painted with paint after applying decorative plaster.
Of course, the installation of "wet" facades is best left to professionals, but nevertheless, the homeowner should be aware of what materials to choose and how to properly carry out the work. This will help to find a common language with representatives of the construction organization and track each stage of the installation of the facade. And then the cottage will surely become the pride of its owner.
Irina Orlova
___________________________
1) Annex "T" to SP 50.13330.2012 "Thermal protection of buildings"
2) For example, produced in accordance with GOST 15588-2014. Interstate standard. Heat-insulating polystyrene boards. Specifications»
3) Subject to the recommendations of the manufacturer related to the installation technology and operating conditions
4) There are quite a few rules for installing insulation, so manufacturers produce special brochures that reflect all the details of the installation. For example, more information about the installation of insulation systems with a thin outer plaster layer ROCKFACADE can be found in the Album of the facade system from the ROCKWOOL company, posted on the company's website in the "Library" section (www.rockwool.ru/library/brochures)
Note. S hop-Facade: apparently a typo:
Mineral plaster - "holds up well to moisture." It is good to withstand moisture, mineral plaster, can only if covered with paint. Without paint coating, mineral plaster, easily absorbs moisture, as it is produced on a cement binder.
Acrylic - "short service life" - a dubious conclusion.
Silicate - "self-cleaning" - it is doubtful, this is usually characteristic of the materials of the "silicone" group.