Stairs for a bath: dimensions and materials. How to make a staircase to the second floor How to build wooden steps to the bath

It is not always possible to equip a bath in a separate building on a small plot, but this does not mean that now the bath will turn out to be an unfulfilled dream. The attic floor in small houses can become convenient if a convenient staircase is built in the bathhouse to the second floor, which should take into account a number of requirements for such a structure.

Requirements:

  • Security. To prevent falling when descending, the ladder must be made of a material that does not slip well. This is all the more important because shoes may be damp when leaving the bath;
  • Comfort. The angle of inclination should not be more than 40 o.
  • Compactness. A bathhouse with a staircase to the second floor, after all, does not belong to those rooms that should attract everyone's attention to themselves - the rise there is usually arranged in the corridor or on the veranda, where there is always not enough space.

What material can the stairs be made of?

The simplest example is a wooden staircase that fits the bill. Wood is quite resistant to excess moisture, especially after treatment with special impregnations that prevent decay. In addition, wood is pleasant to the touch. Usually they choose wood of acacia, oak, yew - species that in themselves are not afraid of high humidity.

Note! Wood can only be used if it is well polished so that it is impossible to drive a splinter, because after the bath, visitors can go down barefoot. However, polishing should not be excessive, so that the steps do not become too slippery.

Types of wooden stairs to the bath

The easiest way to make a regular straight staircase for a bath. This option is possible only if there is enough space - a wide long corridor is ideal for this. A staircase without turns is also the safest for climbing into the bathhouse. But in small houses with a lack of space, this option is completely unacceptable.

There are several particularly popular design options, and one of them is a staircase to the bathhouse on the second floor, the Internet is filled with photos and drawings of which, with direct marches and a platform between them. It can be without risers, which will make the construction easier and simpler.

It must be remembered that a staircase with a platform, being the most acceptable option, still requires more space compared to other types of stairs, which, with limited space, are suitable for baths located on the second floor. For example, a turning staircase can be without a platform using winders, which allow you to make the angle of ascent more gentle. It has practically no drawbacks if the winder steps are calculated carefully enough. In any case, the angle of elevation should not exceed 40°.

If the use of other types of stairs does not allow reaching an acceptable angle of inclination, then the wooden stairs to the second floor in the bath can be spiral, that is, it is formed only by winder steps. However, there are requirements for them that must be met during manufacture - the width should be about one meter, it should not be tightly twisted. The spiral staircase for climbing to the bath is still not often used due to the fact that it is difficult to make it on your own, and it is expensive to order due to the complexity of manufacturing.

How to build a staircase to the bath yourself

Considering that the bath is a secondary room, a ladder for it can be made, relying only on one's own strength. For the basic version, it is better to take a staircase with a right angle turn with a platform between the marches. After measuring the opening to the second floor and the distance between the floors, calculations are performed to determine the main parameters - the height of the platform, the number of steps, the angle of inclination.

Note! You can do all the calculations using special calculator programs and get an accurate drawing.

We are building a staircase to the second floor to the bathhouse, starting with the manufacture of the platform between the marches - the boards are laid and fixed on the prepared frame. Then they proceed to the kosuors of the lower part - the wooden beams are marked out, recesses under the steps are cut out.

After trying on the steps, the lower flight of stairs is assembled and installed in place. Exactly according to this principle, the upper flight of stairs is made. After all parts are ready and installed, they are varnished in several layers.

If in the bath it is necessary to install a staircase to the second floor, it is necessary to consider both its design and the material from which it will be made. Taking into account the peculiarities of the atmosphere in the sauna room and the natural desire to keep the interior in one, harmoniously created style, a combination of wood and metal is acceptable for saunas.

An ergonomic and beautiful option is a ladder building made of wood with a metal support structure. With sufficient space, it can be marching, with limited space it can be rotary or screw. Direct modifications with marches take up a lot of space, but with proper planning, the area remaining under the stairs can be used as a pantry for storing bath accessories and other equipment. Detailed drawing in the photo below.

Spiral and turn stairs are less convenient for constant walking, but in a small bath they significantly save space, and are not used so often. The project of a spiral or turning staircase can be different, the main thing here is the dimensions of the building.

In any case, such a staircase in the bathhouse to the second floor, with small volumes of the room, not only “does not steal” the usable area, but also saves money on its construction.

Do-it-yourself construction installation

To begin with, the technology provides for placement: a vertical stand or adjoining a wall. It is better to give preference to the latter if there will be children or people with limited mobility in the bathhouse. The wall will act as an additional support.

In order not to get sick after steam procedures, the steps must be made of wood, and the frame, handrails and stand should be made of stainless metal, you can use wood, which is more acceptable for the temperature regime in the bath. The metal heats up too quickly and can cause discomfort if it comes into contact with the skin.

How to make a ladder: calculation method and possible configuration in the video below.

A convenient location for step steps is 35-40 cm, but this applies only to rectangular models, spiral staircases have trapezoidal steps.

The design should be as simple as possible: steps and railings are not slippery, even with a slightly rough surface so that a wet foot does not slip.

In order to build a staircase in the bath yourself, you will need the following materials:

  • tread beam - 4 cm;
  • beam for steps, not less than 4 cm thick;
  • beam for risers - 3 cm;
  • timber for mounting stringers (strings) 5x25 cm in size;
  • purchased or self-made handrails;
  • stainless steel screws.

Work begins with determining the layout, type of stairs and steps. The standard parameters of the march are erected with a support step on a double-sided bowstring or mounted on stringers (beams located below).

Stringers are called bars, on which the structure rests in a horizontal section. In a vertical position, the teeth fix the risers. At the same time, the ladder can be mounted on the central stringer and the support of the steps on the wall or on the side stringers.

Bowstrings - strong beams with grooves for steps and risers. They are made from thick boards, the grooves are cut independently according to the template. Between themselves, fasteners are made using wooden or metal strands.

The steps are connected with a bowstring and reinforced with bars under the stairs at an equidistant distance. If the angle of inclination of the march is high, the bars may not be used. The top and bottom of the string are fixed on the walls, ceiling or on the floor.

Wooden fragments of the structure are treated with impregnation with antiseptic and refractory properties and opened with stain or varnish.

For a spiral staircase, the main thing is to determine the angle of inclination. It should be between 23-37 degrees. But, it is worth remembering that the higher the angle of inclination, the more difficult it will be to climb the steps, however, this design will require the smallest placement.

Since many people prefer wood finishes in the bath, the stairs can be made in the same style without even using large-scale metal parts. It is worth choosing from hardwood: birch, ash, linden, oak. From conifers, larch and cedar are suitable.

It is important to make the stairs as safe as possible, since in conditions of high humidity and sudden changes in temperature, you can slip when going up or down. And, of course, do not save on protective solutions, otherwise the design will not last long.

Any interfloor staircase in the house is a compromise between safety, convenience and space saving. Even in a fairly spacious room, this is not easy, and finding a place for a ladder in a bath is much more difficult. The premises, as a rule, are small, and because of this, one has to solve a problem with a lot of unknowns. Because the staircase in the bath requires a balanced approach.

Usually several steps are needed here and there are no strict restrictions due to lack of space. Therefore, we can do as GOST advises:

Since baths are most often built of wood, stairs are usually made of the same material. You need to choose breeds that are resistant to climatic influences. Larch is best suited, pine will behave well. Be sure to treat all components with antifungal and protective impregnations (for example,).

Foundations for the entrance stairs to the bath

The foundation for the stairs is usually made of pile or columnar. The fastest and cheapest to manufacture -. Even faster, but more expensive, only screw piles are installed, but their cost is higher. All work on the arrangement of the underground part of the porch is carried out after the foundation of the building has been established.

If the soils are heaving (clay or loam), the piles should be buried below the freezing level of the soil. In the lower part, it is desirable to make an extension (TISE piles), then there will be a guarantee that the porch will not be pushed out during the winter heaving.


The entrance staircase, if necessary, can be made shallow. Then they use not piles, but columns. Their depth is at least 40 cm below the fertile layer. But then, during heaving, the ladder will rise. So that at the same time she does not block the doors, a high threshold will be needed.

If you don’t want to make a threshold, you can make the upper platform attached to the wall of the house. To do this, during construction, beams are laid on which the upper platform will be assembled.


Entrance wooden staircase shallow (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

In this case, a transverse support for a kosour or bowstring is nailed to the beams built into the wall. The same beam is also made on the "bull-calves" - the shallow support columns. In this case, it turns out that the stairs can be warped, but the upper platform will remain in place.

Stairs in the bath to the second floor

If the second floor in the bath has a seasonal use - no one will live there in winter, it makes sense to take the lift out of the room - to the veranda or to the extension. So, firstly, you will save space in the bath itself, and secondly, you will not be venting through the hatch to the second floor of the room.


Planning an "L"-shaped staircase

If the second floor will be used in cold weather, you will have to enter the structure. In doing so, you will have to consider many factors:

  • It is necessary to arrange the stairs so that it not only fits well on the first floor, but also on the second, having risen, you do not rest against the head on the sloping ceiling: often in the baths, not a full-fledged second floor is built on, but they make an attic with a sloping roof or kick it out, as they say 1.5 floors, and then comes the roof.
  • It is advisable to make an exit on the second floor near one of the walls: this way less space is “eaten up”. It is very inconvenient to have a hole in the middle of the room: it is problematic to organize the space normally.
  • Choose the parameters of the stairs so that it is both convenient and safe.

Types of wooden stairs

The stairs in the bathhouse to the second floor can be with straight and curved marches. Curved stairs on their own, without experience, to calculate and build - will not work: it's too difficult. Because basically everything is done in a straight line.

When choosing a model with straight flights, it is not necessary that the span be one (these are single-flight stairs) - along the wall. You can design it in the form of the letter "G" or "P". In this case, straight sections are connected by platforms or winder - turning - steps.


Different types of stairs to the second floor (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

Please note that marches can be closed and open. In closed marches there are risers - details that cover the gap between two steps. A turn in the stairs can be made with a rectangular platform (in the figure, the leftmost option) or with winder (triangular) steps (two options in the figure).


This is a staircase with a closed flight - with risers

In one place it is better not to make many winder steps, as in the figure in the center - you will have to climb “along the wall”, that is, where the steps are wider. The most optimal number of them is three to four. But not always such an option can be entered into the existing conditions, and then you have to compromise.

U-shaped stairs to the second floor are usually poorly built into small rooms: when designing, shafts are specially left under them or a place is provided. Much easier in this regard with the placement of "L"-shaped.


L-shaped stairs are easier to fit into small rooms in the bath. The marches here are open - there are no risers

The staircase in the bathhouse to the 2nd floor in the form of the letter “G” can, as in the photo above, go along two walls, or it can adjoin only one of them.

A little about steps, sizes and terms

We have already talked about what winder steps are - these are triangular or trapezoidal turning steps. But these are not all terms. To calculate the stairs for the bath stairs yourself, you need to know some rules, terms and tolerances. With the height and width of the steps: this is understandable. But there is such a thing as a lifting step. This is, in fact, the height of the step, but always taking into account the thickness of the material. Since the materials can be different, the lifting step can vary significantly.

The following step sizes are considered the best: a width of about 30 cm, a lifting step of 15-16 cm. But these are average figures. For people of average height with medium long legs. And these parameters, as you know, are different for everyone. If you are planning for yourself, you can calculate based on how it will be more convenient for you and your family members.

The width of the step is determined by the length of the foot. It is more convenient when the entire foot rests on the step, and not just part of it.


But this, unfortunately, is not always possible. If the decrease is insignificant and you will not have to use the stairs very often, as in a bath, for example, then they also go to reduce the width of the step. If the bathhouse is residential, or used as a guest house, you can find a way out by making a “duck step” ladder. It is distinguished by steps of unequal width: on one side there is a cutout. In this case, you have to start the descent or ascent from a certain foot. Look at the photo of such a ladder and everything will become clear.


You can make a goose step staircase to the bathhouse. It has curly steps. You have to climb it with a certain foot in order to get to the wide part

Climbing up and down these steps you are forced to change your gait. Which is why the name came about. But at the same time, it allows you to make a very, very steep climb, and without much threat from safety.

How to calculate the stairs to the bath

When calculating, they do not use the height of the room, but the distance from the floor of the first floor to the floor of the second. To do this, the thickness of the ceiling and finishing materials of the floor of the second floor are added to the height of the ceiling. This value is also needed in the calculation.

The number of steps is simple: the distance found from floor to floor is divided by the recommended lifting step - 15-16 cm. The resulting figure is rounded up (see for yourself up or down). For example, the distance from floor to floor is 280 cm. Divide by 15 cm, we get 18.6, round it up, we get that there should be 19 steps in our staircase.

Now let's determine what the lifting step will be in this case: we divide 280 cm into 19 steps. It will turn out 147 cm. Not enough. If there are no children or elderly people in the family, you can consider installing 18 steps. In this case, the lift height will be 155 cm. This value fits into the recommendations. So for a person of average height it will be more convenient.

Another point that requires verification: the size of the opening under the stairs on the second floor. In order not to hit the head on the opening during the descent, it is necessary that the distance from the step located below to the clearance be 200 cm (minimum 190 cm).

In order not to hit your head when descending, check the distance from the step to the edge of the cutout. By the way, this is an example of a single-flight staircase. But there is a very steep angle of ascent, apparently, neither small children nor the elderly go to the bath

If the height is less than 190 cm, there are two ways out: increase the size of the passage through the floors (make it longer). If this is not possible, increase the ascent step, making the stairs steeper. But more than 210 mm it can not be done. as a solution - increase the clearance a little and at the same time make the rise a little higher.

The finished step parameters must be checked according to the convenience formula. If you add up the lifting step multiplied by 2 and the step width, then the result should be in the range from 600 to 650 mm. So, if the lifting step is 155 mm, and the step width is 300 mm, we get 155 mm * 2 + 300 mm = 610 mm. We fit into the norm. If not, an adjustment is needed.

The minimum width of the stairs to the bath is 80 cm, the optimal one is 100 cm. Plan somewhere in this area.

Do not forget that it is desirable to treat all wooden surfaces in the bath with protective impregnations. How and what, read.

How to make a ladder in the bath yourself

In addition to the parameters of the steps, you also need to decide how to build the staircase itself. Wooden stairs are made on bowstrings or stringers. A bowstring is a board between which steps are attached. They have smooth edges, and the steps are fixed precisely between them, with the help of corners, bars. They also cut out special grooves.


Ways of fastening the steps to the bowstrings of the stairs (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

Kosour differs in that it has a sawtooth profile. The steps are laid on the molded ledge.


How to make a kosour for the stairs to the bath (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

It is easier to make a ladder with bowstrings: it requires a much lower level of carpentry skill. This is especially true for mortise steps or when they are mounted on corners. Here the skills required are generally minimal.


How to build a staircase to the bath on a string (to enlarge the image, click on the picture with the left mouse button)

How to build a staircase to a bathhouse on a bowstring: it all starts with the installation of a bowstring and supporting pillars, if any. A support post is usually a square beam of at least 150 * 150 cm. Boards with a thickness of at least 4-5 cm go to the bowstrings and steps. They need good quality without knots and cracks. Bowstrings are attached to the wall with long nails or wood screws.

Then steps are installed on the corners or support bars. If there is a finished project, it should have a complete layout according to the size of each step. If there is no project, in difficult places you can first make patterns from cardboard, then outlining them on wood and sawing them out accurately. This will definitely be needed with winder steps (swivel). All others must be standard sizes.

If you still want to make a ladder on stringers, watch the video. It's all very well said.

Many are interested in how to make a staircase to the second floor on their own. There is nothing complicated in making wooden stairs with your own hands. It is quite difficult to make a flight of stairs from metal or concrete, it is much easier and more pleasant to work with wood. The staircase should be beautiful, strong, safe and durable, so you need to try and do everything right.

Then you need to find out how much the material costs. If possible, you can order ready-made elements for stairs from the manufacturer - steps, balusters, risers. It will cost more, but you can skip the manufacturing process and immediately proceed with the installation. If you decide to make all the elements yourself, then you need to purchase the following materials:

  • timber for steps 4-4.5 cm thick;
  • boards (dimensions depending on the calculations);
  • beams for tread and risers from 3 to 4 cm;
  • timber for stringers 5X2.5 cm;
  • stainless steel screws;
  • handrails, balusters and railings (it is better to purchase ready-made ones, without a professional tool it is difficult to make them yourself).

You need to prepare the following tools:

  • simple pencil;
  • meter;
  • square;
  • a hammer;
  • hacksaw.

Manufacturing process

According to pre-prepared templates, you need to cut out all the elements. Everything must be made at the highest level so that the quality is not questioned. First make the side bases. To do this, measure the angle of contact with the floor and carefully draw a line horizontally. From this line they push further and measure the width and height of each step to the very top. They do the same with another kosour. At the bottom, the stringers are fixed using a support beam, and on the ceiling they are inserted into pre-cut gaps. Periodically check the evenness and horizontality of the structure. If you make an inaccuracy, in the future it will create additional inconvenience, and the quality of the stairs will suffer.

Next, the risers are cut out and nailed to the already installed base. The risers should be level, without distortions and cracks. The stairs can be made without risers, so it looks lighter and weightless, but not everyone likes this option. Now it's the turn of the steps. It must be remembered that the treads should have rounded edges. Steps are often made from one solid board or from two narrower ones. Treads are fixed with nails and screws.

According to safety rules, if there are children in the house, the operation of the stairs without railings is not allowed. Therefore, the railing is not only decorative, but also safe. At the same time, if there are small children in the house, there should be two balusters on each step.

If it is not possible to purchase ready-made balusters and railings, they can be made independently from the bars. To make homemade balusters stand firmly, grooves can be cut in the steps. After installing the balusters, a handrail from a bar is fixed on top. Railings do not have to be wooden. The combination of a wooden flight of stairs with forged or metal railings looks original. Sometimes even tempered glass railings are ordered, although this can hardly be called a practical solution. You can make stairs without railings, but it's quite dangerous.

With a rest room located upstairs, buildings have become quite common. For comfortable use of the bath room, the staircase in the bath to the second floor is of great importance. The ascent must be safe and comfortable. At the same time, it must be compact and withstand possible negative effects on the material.

An example of installing stairs in the bath to the second floor



An example of a two-span staircase


Depending on whether the lift is located on the street or inside the building, the requirements for the size and material of the structure will vary.

The staircase in the bathhouse to the second floor, which is planned to be built inside the building, largely depends on the location.

The design is dictated by:

  • room interior;
  • the amount of free space for the construction of stairs;
  • lifting height.



Types of stairs

The main stairs that connect the floors inside the bath include:


The main elements of the stairs are bowstrings - side supports and steps. Instead of a bowstring, its various upgrades can be used.


Similar designs are most often used for. The steps are not too varied. They can be open or closed with risers. Additionally, the stairs for the bath can be decorated with railings and various elements of the decoration of spans and marches. The shape of the stairs are straight and rotary. Inside, both forms are appropriate for the bath, but when making the structure, it should be taken into account that it is better to avoid bulky turntables.
An example of the design of a turning staircase in a bath



Design of a spiral staircase to the second floor
Considering that bath rooms are usually decorated with wood, the most common lifting option is. It is also possible to build in the bath. Concrete mid-flight structures in bath rooms are not used, since they are excessively massive and quite heavy.

Design requirements

To make the stairs in the bathhouse to the second floor comfortable and safe, you should correctly calculate the width of the march, the height and depth of the steps. To do this, it is necessary to rely on accepted standards, taking into account the size of the area that is allocated in the bathhouse for the construction of the lift.



Read also

Step-by-step construction of a bath

March width:

  • the accepted width of the flight of stairs for stairs installed inside the bath corresponds to 80 cm;
  • the march is considered the most convenient, with a width of more than 1 meter;
  • the minimum allowable size is 60 cm.

These dimensions apply equally to straight and curved stairs.

Drawing with the dimensions of the stairs to the second floor




The height and width of the step is calculated based on the data on the width of the step and the length of the foot.
Based on the averaged indicators, the height of 15-22 cm is considered optimal, and the width of the step is 26-30 cm.

Depending on the staircase allocated for the construction in the bathhouse to the second floor of the area, it is possible to create a wooden staircase P or L shaped. With a small area, the L-shaped design is most appropriate.

Staircase design to the second floor


Procedure:

  1. Careful project planning.
  2. Installation of support elements. If a turning part is supposed, then an additional support must be installed to it.


  3. Bowstrings are attached to the supports. A variant of a straight bowstring or the manufacture of stringers is possible. If a straight bowstring is chosen, then before fixing it, it is necessary to prepare slots in the places of future fastening of the treads.
  4. Steps are being fixed. If the staircase is open, then the process can be completed.
  5. A closed staircase additionally requires the installation of risers.
  6. If desired, the structure can be equipped with handrails.
    The process of installing the railing of the stairs to the second floor

Options

You can opt for a metal structure on bolts or pipes.

  • if the staircase to the second floor of the bath is located far enough from the steam room and will not be exposed to high temperatures;
  • the interior of the room allows the use of metal.

This will make the stairs more stylish and airy.
If there is very little space, and you can’t do without a ladder, the best solution would be to build a structure with steps in the “goose step” style.

An example of the design and design of a wooden staircase goose step





This design is a straight or turning staircase, the steps of which are alternately available only on the right or only on the left. So you can significantly reduce the height of the approach, while maintaining ease of movement.

If it is necessary to use the stairs in the bathhouse to the second floor only in the warm season, and if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is insufficient, it is more appropriate to take the structure to the annex, on or on the street. See in the video the process of installing stairs to the second floor in the bath.

Outdoor staircase design

Building a staircase to the bathhouse on the second floor from the street is a freer process. This is due to the fact that a large area can be allocated for the construction of the lift and the material of the stairs can also be any. The main thing is to protect it from the effects of nature.
Depending on the material, the stairs can be wooden, metal, made of concrete or brick. The choice of material depends on what is best suited for outdoor. In the form of a street structure, it can be: