Assembly of cabinet furniture sliding wardrobe. Step-by-step instructions for assembling a sliding wardrobe. Types of sliding systems

In the corridor, living room, bedroom, you need to use comfortable and roomy furniture that does not take up much space. The best option in this case would be, especially since it is quite easy and fast. To assemble such a design, it is best to order elements for it at a specialized factory after drawing up a drawing. They will be made quickly and efficiently, and it will also save time on assembly, on the materials themselves. If you start preparing parts at home, then you need to ensure the availability of a complex tool and a processing machine, and this is far from always possible. Therefore, it is better to take measurements at home, draw up a drawing indicating the values ​​obtained, and then contact the factory to order the necessary elements. To draw up a drawing, you can use special programs. An example of a drawing with dimensions is shown in the figure. IMAGE one.

A do-it-yourself sliding wardrobe can become not only a convenient place for storage, but also a room decoration.

Cabinet hardware

Image 1. Drawing of a sliding wardrobe.

In addition to the main elements of the cabinet in the form of shelves, walls, doors and other things, it is necessary to ensure the availability of fittings of this type:

• plugs for screws;
• screws;
• handles and runners, guides for drawers;
• end hanger;
• strips for doors.

If the cabinet will be made with lighting, then all the electrics must also be prepared in advance, consider where and how it will go so as not to interfere with the operation of the cabinet. It is necessary to assemble the cabinet from the side walls, bottom and top, getting a rectangular box. The easiest way to do this is on a flat horizontal surface, first attaching the side walls to the bottom, and then screwing the top, i.e. the lid.

It is in this position that it will be possible to avoid distortions, even if all the details are not adjusted so accurately. After that, the frame is simply turned over and installed in the place where the cabinet itself will be located. If partitions are provided for the structure, then they must be installed before the top cover is mounted, since otherwise it will be extremely difficult to install such elements. A detailed step-by-step assembly option is shown in the figure. IMAGE 2

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Installation of shelves and doors

Image 2. Stages of assembling a sliding wardrobe.

Having assembled a wardrobe with your own hands in the form of a compartment, you will get a convenient design that includes not only ordinary internal, but also external shelves, often having a rounded shape. They are mounted extremely simply, usually for a cabinet with a height of up to three meters, 4-5 shelves are enough on the outside, their internal number depends on the purpose, ease of use. To fasten the shelves, you need to take blanks, special screws, PVA glue and wooden dowels. Holes are made in the side walls of the cabinet with a drill at the level where the shelves will be, after which you can proceed to their fasteners. You need to start from the top shelf, moving down.

They should be placed in such a way that the front edge is in front, the raw sides can be turned to the walls and back. The instruction for assembling wardrobe doors is one of the most difficult, as it is a completely separate mechanism. It is best to order ready-made doors according to the required dimensions, because it is on them that the ease of use and the appearance of the entire structure depend. For doors, guides, rollers, fasteners are purchased. Separately, there is a profile and a mirror for the facade, which must also be ordered based on preliminary calculations. The following additional elements apply:

• guides (bottom and top) that will be screwed to the bottom and top cover. These are small rails along which the rollers will move;
• lower frame for rollers;
• side frames in the form of H and C-profiles, which are used as handles for opening doors;
• top frame for rigidity;
• the middle frame is used if the door consists of 2-3 canvases (depending on the size of the cabinet);
• rollers for moving doors;
• shlegel, i.e., a strip of soft pile that protects the side walls of the cabinet;
• mirror seal.

The door is assembled only after the main cabinet structure is ready, its evenness is checked. It is recommended to assemble the door on a horizontal surface, you need to start from the facade, that is, fixing the mirror, and then move on to the rollers and install the door in the prepared place.

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Mirror and sliding door installation

The mirror for the cabinet doors must be chosen on a film basis, the thickness is approximately 4 mm. The mirror itself can be ordinary, matte, have an unusual pattern. When ordering, you must immediately indicate the required dimensions, since it is very inconvenient to cut at home, you can get unpleasant "surprises" in the form of chips. For installation, a silicone-based sealant is used, it must be carefully applied to the edges along the entire length. There should be no wrinkles or bubbles after application. The mirror is carefully inserted into the frame (it is best to work with two people), after which it is given exactly the position that is needed. For this, a rubber mallet is used, with which the edges are carefully knocked out.

The next step is the installation of a sliding cabinet door, on the canvas it will be necessary to make special holes for the thread in advance. The lower profile with rollers is attached first, all screws must be adjustable so that you can adjust the position and height of the door if necessary using the rollers. After that, the upper rails are attached, it is not necessary to use adjustable screws. The end frame is hidden with a shlegel, i.e. a soft strip of pile that protects the side walls of the cabinet from damage. Such a strip must be fixed on both sides of each door. The guides on the bottom and on the top board of the cabinet are fastened with self-tapping screws that have press washers. It is necessary to put the guides strictly parallel to each other, after that you will have to expose the door using the building level.

Only having appeared on the market, sliding wardrobes have gained popularity among the majority of residents of large and small cities. In the list of furniture sales for many years now, they have confidently held a leading position. In today's understanding, a sliding wardrobe is a simple combined system that saves space in the house and emphasizes the interior features favorably. It is worth noting that this piece of furniture fits into almost any design. The possibility of installing a wardrobe even in a small apartment, as well as sliding doors, are the main advantages of this model. In this article, we will talk about how to install sliding wardrobe doors with your own hands. If you follow the recommendations provided in this article, then the installation of this element of cabinet furniture will not take you much time and effort.

Sliding wardrobe doors do not take up much space, which is why many owners of small apartments choose it. This is due to the fact that the cabinet doors do not need to be opened 90º. It is convenient to get things out of such a cabinet. It is quite functional, and thanks to design variations, even the most atypical buyer who has designed an unusual interior in his house / apartment can find his wardrobe.

Closet doors can be decorated in different ways - from a personal photo to a favorite landscape, from painting to artificial aging of the surface. There is plenty of room for imagination here.

Some companies offer their services for assembling the cabinet and installing doors to it. Typically, such a service costs about $ 50, which can significantly hit the wallet during the repair period.

The cabinet is assembled according to a simple scheme. The biggest challenge is installing the doors. For them to work well and reliably, you need to follow the scheme for installing them. You will need top and bottom guides. There should be 1 of them. top and bottom for each door. The main load of the door falls on the lower guides, which means that you should not save on these elements. If you really want to save money, then it is better to buy lighter doors, but no less high-quality guides. Another useful detail of the door design is the stopper. It is used to adjust the width of the opening of the product.

The dimensions of the rails must match the width of the cabinet. The difference plus - minus 3 mm is not significant, so a small error in size is allowed. Install the top rail first.

The guides are fastened with self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2 × 16 or universal screws with a countersunk head 3.5 × 16. Make a hole in the upper guide with a 4 mm drill. The pitch between the holes is approximately 300 mm.

If you have to fix the guide profile with a countersunk head screw, then you need to make a countersink in the holes with a 6–8 mm drill. This is necessary so that the screw, so to speak, sits completely. So, the instructions for installing the top rail are quite simple. After you make holes in the profile, you need to insert it, align it flush and fix it.

In this case, holes must also be made in the profile. But do not rush to fix the bottom rail to the cabinet. This is due to the fact that it needs to be shifted inside the cabinet by 20 mm. To accurately determine the indent, you first need to put the bottom guide profile in the cabinet. Then install the doors in the closet. In this case, you can not do without an assistant. The door must be installed strictly vertically. This can be achieved by moving the lower guide profile, while checking the vertical with a building level.

Installation of the latch is carried out before screwing the lower guide. How to do it right and will be discussed further.

A stopper or latch is needed so that the doors hold tightly (fixed) in the closed position. It prevents the formation of a gap with the touching sidewall. The stopper is installed in the groove of the lower guide. One latch (stopper) is needed per door.

So, you need to insert one stopper into each groove, then screw the bottom rail, mount the door and adjust the tightness of the lock.

To ensure that the stopper or retainer is installed in the correct location, close the doors completely, and then mark the center of the wheel on the guide screwed from the bottom. The stopper is established by the center on a mark. If necessary, you can move the latch with a flat screwdriver.

The lower wheels have been designed so that with the help of an adjusting screw located on them, it is possible to adjust the uniformity of the fit of the door to the sidewall at the top and bottom. To do this, you need a special 4 mm hex key.

If necessary, lower the right corner and adjust the right wheel. To do this, turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise and vice versa.

The buffer tape is glued to protect the inside of the cabinet from dust. In addition, it softens the impact of the door on the sidewalls in the process of closing them. If you no longer need access to the adjustment screws, then it's time to stick on the buffer tape. This is due to the fact that it closes the holes on the vertical end of the door.

There are 2 types of tape:

1. With a short pile - up to 6 mm.
2. With a long pile - up to 12 mm.

Although the short-pile tape is more popular, its long-pile counterpart provides a more comfortable use of the cabinet. The color of the buffer tape depends on the color of the system attached to the ends of the closet doors. To stick the tape, you need to remove the protective film and stick it to the vertical end of the door.

For example, let's take a closet, which has the following dimensions: width 2000 mm and height 2400 mm.

First of all, consider how to measure the width of the doors, and then the height:

1. Width. So, we know the total width of the cabinet 2000 mm. On both sides, 16 mm should be taken away (the thickness of the side walls against which the door will abut). This means that the width that needs to be closed with doors is calculated as follows: 2000 - 16 - 16 \u003d 1968 mm. This cabinet has two doors. Therefore, it is important to take into account the distance that the doors will overlap with each other. Here it is best to take with a margin of up to 25 mm for each door. Now we add this amount to the already existing width: 1968 + 50 = 2018 mm. This is the total width of the two doors. We divide this amount by 2, the total is 1009 mm, this is the size of one door wide.
2. Height. Now we determine the height of the doors for the wardrobe. In our case, the cabinet height is 2400 mm. When calculating, take into account the cover at the top and the lining at the bottom of the cabinet, 16 mm each. The gap between the upper and lower rails of 15 mm is also taken into account. Now it remains to determine the height, by the following action: 2400 - 16 - 16 - 15 - 15 = 2338 mm.

So, we have determined the dimensions of two doors, which is equal to 1009 × 2338 mm. After that, you can place an order for the material.

After that, you should accurately calculate the required material or accessories for the doors. So, you will need 4 handle profiles that will be mounted vertically on each side of the door. You also need a framing profile for the bottom and top. Take measurements and buy the necessary footage.

For the construction of the frame, you need to buy 2 sets of fittings, which include:

• 4 self-tapping screws for connecting vertical and horizontal profiles.
• 2 support wheels.
• 2 wheel bolts.
• 2 door positioning supports for top track.

Now we take the vertical profile of the handle and cut it to the height of our door, which is 2338 mm. As a result, you should get 4 segments with such dimensions.

The profile of the handle is pasted over with a protective film that protects it from damage during the delivery process. Also, do not remove it when cutting.

Next, cut off the upper and lower horizontal profile of the appropriate length. In our case, the width of the door is 1009 mm. However, the width of the handle profile, which is 25 mm, should be taken away. Both sides are 50 mm. Also in the vertical profile of the handle there is a special groove, which is intended for positioning the horizontal framing profile. The groove has a depth of 1 mm. This means that the vertical profile will include a horizontal profile 1 mm to the left and right. Accordingly, we make the following calculations: 1009 - 25 - 25 + 1 +1 = 961 mm. This result is the length of the horizontal profile for the bottom and top, resulting in 4 pieces of 961 mm.

After, it is necessary to mark the drilling locations for self-tapping screws for the upper horizontal profile. So, 7.5 mm should be measured from the end of the profile. This measurement should be transferred to a vertical profile. On it, mark the place to remove the hole from the end of the profile and mark the center of the hole. These measurements should also be made on the vertical profile of the handle, but only on the other side of the whip. It is also necessary to put a mark for attaching the support wheel. To do this, take the support wheel block and measure from the end to the middle of the mounting hole. This dimension is also transferred to the vertical profile.

At the marked points, drill through holes for a Ø5 mm self-tapping screw through 2 strips. So, you should get 3 holes in each vertical profile: 1 for attaching the upper horizontal profile, 2 for the bottom and 3 for attaching the support wheel.

At this stage, you need to connect the horizontal bar to the left and right vertical bar. We tighten all the details together with a self-tapping screw. Before final tightening, a support must be placed from above in the top profile for positioning.

Further, it is necessary to install the rollers on the door in the lower horizontal profile. To fix the support wheel, insert a bolt, which should be tightened by 2 mm. In the future, with the help of it, it will be possible to adjust the position of the doors.

Filling installation

Let's say you decide to install a mirror as filling the door. To do this, put on a rubber band around its perimeter. After that, the previously assembled structure should be untwisted, it is enough to unscrew the tightening screws. The lower wheels should not be unscrewed. Next, insert the mirror with the seal into the upper and lower bars, and then tighten the structure again. Make sure that everything matches exactly, otherwise the mirror may burst. The door is assembled according to the same principle, if the usb filler is a stove.

Video

In this video, there are additional nuances of how to assemble and install doors for a sliding wardrobe:

Many are wondering if it is possible to independently assemble a spacious and high-quality wardrobe? Yes it is possible. With a competent approach to the assembly of the cabinet, it will last at least 10 years.

To assemble the wardrobe, you will need to prepare the following tool:

• Screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• hex key;
• roulette;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• angle ruler.

You will also need to purchase a set of furniture fittings and accessories for the cabinet. This list includes:

• Small nails for fiberboard - about 100-130 pieces;
• confirmations - 50-80 pieces;
• plugs in the color of chipboard - 20-40 pieces;
• profile for fiberboard - 1 pc;
• rod holders;
• barbell;
• drawer guides;
• legs - optional.

Instructions for assembling the wardrobe must be included with the purchased piece of furniture. They rarely differ in detailed descriptions, they are calculated rather for professionals. Let's talk about how to assemble a wardrobe yourself.

Schemes of cabinets and filling

Today you can find a variety of designs of wardrobes:

• With two, three, four or more sections;
• with drawers and lower shelves for storing shoes;
• two-door, three-door and so on.

Before proceeding with the installation, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the diagrams.

An example of how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands, we will show in the second option. The diagram shows a cabinet with three sections 2400 mm wide and 2600 mm high. It has two doors and an angled outer panel with rounded shelves.

The filling of the cabinet is shelves, drawers, rods for clothes. It is these features that most often prevent a person from making a choice. Among the variety of furniture designs, it is sometimes difficult to choose what is right for you.

When choosing a wardrobe, consider the following details:

• The room where it will be installed;
• own requirements for the capacity of the structure;
• features of storage items (linen, clothes, shoes, and so on);
• budget.

The space inside it should be used rationally. You can store trousers separately on the bottom section, and for shirts, allocate a separate bar.

Modern content is the key to assembling a practical cabinet. Behind sliding doors today there are baskets for storing small things, hangers for ties, trousers, belts, pull-out shelves and bars, wardrobe lifts.

Having decided on the content and design, you can proceed to the assembly.

Installation process and features

Installation of a sliding wardrobe includes several standard steps:

• assembling the cabinet body;
• installation of guides, installation of the rear wall;
• door installation.

Let's talk about how to correctly perform all the stages of work in the presence of the materials listed above.

You need to assemble the cabinet on the floor. It is optimal to do this in such a position that the lifting of a heavy body after assembly requires a minimum of effort and energy. Since the cabinet is equipped with three drawers, you should outline and fix the guides. They are of two types:

• roller;
• telescopic.

The master is required to accurately calculate their location. The difference is that telescopic models are located strictly in the middle of each drawer, and roller ones hold the bottom of each, that is, they must correspond to the level of the lower line of each drawer. Please note that the guiding systems of some companies assume the presence of an indentation of the front part of the box from the edge of the section. It is important to outline the position of the elements, fix them on the side wall and on the internal partition.

It is important to know that a number of cabinet filling elements will also require preliminary marking and installation of fasteners, since then this work will be complicated.

The next step is the installation of supports (legs), which will prevent moisture from coming into contact with the laminated chipboard during operation. Now the side stack is connected to the bottom of the cabinet using a screwdriver and confirmations. The next part to connect is the inner wall. In order for it to receive optimal rigidity, it is required to connect both walls with a connecting shelf.

Do-it-yourself assembly of a sliding wardrobe requires the master to have a clear understanding of the functions of all structural details and fittings. Part of the shelves can be put in place only after the furniture is installed in an upright position.

We assemble the structure further, gradually expanding it. Connecting shelves and another inner wall will be added. Before installing the side outer wall, we advise you to pre-fix the corner shelves that will be outside. Once the design is assembled, you can fix the final element - the top cover.

An approximate scheme for assembling a wardrobe is shown in the photo below. All parts must be edged, and all filler work must be carried out. In order for the cabinet, assembled and installed with your own hands, to be of high quality, it is better to carry out these works on specialized machines.

Confirmates are screwed in at low speeds of the screwdriver with confident holding of the parts strictly at an angle of 90 °.

We proceed to the next stage: we nail the back wall of fiberboard. This is done by nailing it to the structure with nails. If the width of the sheet does not allow closing the section, use a connecting profile of the corresponding color. You need to nail the wall from top to bottom.

Now the assembly of the wardrobe is almost complete, it remains to install it in place, assemble the drawers, equipping them with guides, and hang the doors.

Built-in wardrobe assembly

The installation of a built-in wardrobe in almost everything repeats the assembly steps of a conventional one. It can also have side walls made of laminated chipboard, or it can be assembled in a vertical position using metal guides.

There are many ways to make the internal filling of the built-in wardrobe.

Since part of the structure is attached directly to the wall, this type of wardrobe can be installed vertically. Professional furniture makers know that making a cabinet in a finished niche on the spot is a difficult, lengthy job. When ordering, they try to make a cabinet from laminated chipboard in the workshop to fit the room and assemble it on the spot.

A person who decides to do such work on his own in his home has the time and can assemble a reliable, inexpensive and roomy design.

If the walls, floor and ceiling will be the perimeter of the built-in structure, it is important that they are as even as possible. A level is useful, which measure the angle of inclination and level the surfaces before installing shelves, walls and doors. Niche preparation is serious business. To do this, the surface of the walls is cleaned, primed and coated with acrylic enamel.

When installing additional lighting inside any structure, we recommend using low-power halogen lamps in order to comply with fire regulations.

Installing cabinet doors

Installing the doors of a conventional and built-in wardrobe is a crucial moment. A heavy structure will require the help of an assistant, it will be difficult to do it yourself.

There are three door mounting options:

• monorail;
• two rails with top support;
• two rails with bottom support.

The most common system is based on the bottom rail. Reliance on the top has not received distribution, but is used more often for built-in cabinets, where the guide rail is attached to the concrete ceiling. The assembly of wardrobe doors is divided into several stages:

• profile cutting;
• drilling holes;
• installation of horizontal and vertical profiles;
• installation of the finished roller structure.

The door profile after cutting and drilling must be sanded with sandpaper. If a mirror is glued to the door leaf, which is very common in structures of this type, you should prepare it in advance by sticking a self-adhesive film on the back side. This is a safety rule.

A seal is additionally put on mirror and glass doors. Now you need to study the instructions for installing doors.

We assemble the structure on the floor. First of all, horizontal profiles are installed. If it is difficult to do it manually, use a mallet. Vertical handle profiles are installed in the same way. They are pre-drilled so that the upper and lower self-tapping screws fall into the grooves of the horizontal profiles.

The process of screwing in screws is special: first, a screw is screwed in a short length, then a roller is inserted, and then it will be possible to fix it by screwing it to the limit. Additionally, vertical and horizontal profiles are tightened with self-tapping screws.

The next step is to install the top and bottom rails. Not everyone knows how to do this job right. The top ones are installed first, the outer edge must match the edge of the cabinet lid. The bottom rail is installed on the bottom edge, but is not fixed. So, it is possible to check the angle of the door by installing one of them and checking the operation of the mechanism. In some cases, the bottom rail moves inward by 2 centimeters.

Assembling furniture is a rather complicated process, but everyone can do the work himself. Sliding wardrobe - a modern, roomy design, which many dream of. If desired, such a wardrobe can be assembled in each apartment.

Do you dream of a wardrobe, but do not want to buy a ready-made one for various objective reasons? Then try to assemble it yourself. This is not as difficult to do as it might seem at first. And a thing made with your own hands always brings much more joy.

First you need to imagine what kind of cabinet design you want, decide on the design, color, shape of the doors, the location of shelves and hangers, drawers, and so on.

If you encounter difficulties in drawing up a drawing, then there are many sites with ready-made drawings, in the previous article, we described in detail how to create it yourself .. You just have to choose a similar one for your design.
At the next step, you order the sawing of parts according to the corresponding drawing. By the way, in the same place it is possible to order pasting of an edge. The cost of this service is usually low.

Assemble the cabinet, starting with the base and installing adjustable legs. Mark the bottom for the plinth and legs. Secure the plinth to the bottom with minifixes, confirmations or plastic corners. Carefully think over the places for drilling holes for assembly with the help of confirmations. For this you need a conductor.

The legs are securely fastened with screws.

Fasten, using confirmations, all the details of the base. To do this, you can purchase an angular clamp, its cost is low.

The front plinth has yet to be removed, so don't screw the corners in yet.

Then install the sides of the cabinet, attaching them with minifixes. They will perfectly hide the fastener and are ideal for perpendicular parts.
It is easier to assemble the cabinet lying on its front wall, but this is, of course, if you have enough space for this. You can assemble a wardrobe and standing. Only in this case it is better to fasten with the help of minifixes, and not confirmations, as in the case of lying down.

Assemble and secure the center and baffle and cabinet roof.

Mark the holes for installing the minifix rod on the roof and bottom of the cabinet. Make non-through holes with a confirmation drill, 10-11 mm deep, and install a minifix there.

Take a level and level the bottom of the cabinet as evenly as possible. This must be done before installing the sidewalls. After that, mark the sidewalls so that the holes exactly match the installed rods on the bottom and roof.

Next, on the inside of the sidewall, drill a hole for the metal minifix with a special 15 mm cutter. When you seat the part on the stem, make sure that its head peeks out by 6 mm. If necessary, it is better to practice on unnecessary details.

Also at the end of the part, with a 6-6.5 mm drill, in the center, make another hole.

After that, with the help of confirmations, assemble the central partition with the upper shelf.

And only then can you put all the sidewalls, the back wall of the console and the T-shaped partition on the lower rods, secure with minifixes. And now, with the help of confirmations, you can attach the top shelf to the sidewalls.

Attach the roof and check the vertical level.

Install additional shelves using confirmations for structural rigidity.

The back wall of the cabinet is fiberboard. Attach it with screws around the entire perimeter of the cabinet, as well as to the central partition and top shelf.

We have done the bulk of the work. Now we install the cabinet in its place and proceed to the most interesting - installing shelves, drawers and hangers.

Shelves can be secured with confirmations. In this case, they will be hard. If you want removable shelves, then install them on shelf holders. By the way, in this case, there will be fewer plugs from the holes on the outside of the cabinet.

After installing the shelves, you need to hang the bars for the coat hanger. We prefer oval shaped bars as they are stronger in our opinion. Attach them in the center, relative to the inner shelves.

Next, install drawers. We chose boxes with invoices. Therefore, you must not forget to step back from the edge of the inner shelf. We also install glass shelves, and we only have to install the doors of the sliding system. Door facades can be decorated with mirrors, mosaics, artistic painting.

A special zest will be given to your closet by decorating it with lighting, and as an option with LED strips. albeit a small moment, but also surprisingly and well give a zest in appearance.

Thus, with the independent manufacture of a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, you will translate all your wishes into reality, you will be confident in the quality of the design and, in addition, save a lot. And we wish you good luck in this very interesting business!

I hope our article do-it-yourself wardrobe assembly was useful and interesting.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe assembly video

Really on my own assemble wardrobe It's not that hard if you follow a certain sequence.

Assembling the cabinet cabinet basic principles

Decide how you will assemble the wardrobe - in a lying or standing position

Take one of the extreme household walls of the cabinet and lift it up as if you are lifting the assembled cabinet, keep in mind that the height of the sliding wardrobe will be higher with a false roof.

If the side wall does not touch the ceiling with an angle, then the cabinet can be assembled in a supine position, which will facilitate the nailing of the fiberboard, and it will be quite easy to assemble the sliding wardrobe.

Install end caps or mortise fittings in the side walls

Before wardrobe assembly lay out the parts in the order of use during assembly, drive in the tips or screw the mortise supports into the side walls.

Why do we need tips or supports - if the side walls are installed immediately on the floor, then when washing the floors, there will be direct contact between the chipboard and water and, accordingly, the edge will peel off and the chipboard will swell.

Install plastic adjustable feet

The plastic supports are the same as in the kitchens, and allow you to adjust the sliding wardrobe in height during assembly. In addition to this function, when the sliding wardrobe is loaded, the supports will not allow the bottom of the sliding wardrobe to fail and break.

Although there is another approach: the sidewalls rest on the bottom of the cabinet, and the bottom on the basement box or placed immediately with the bottom on the floor. You can also find such designs.

The size of the indentation of the supports from the rear edge of the bottom depends on the width of the plinth and is about 50 mm. A plinth is fastened to the front supports on clips, everything is very similar as in the kitchen. By the way, the plinth is also an additional support for the bottom of the closet.

The installation depth of the front supports depends on how much you want to “sink” the base, usually about 30 mm.

Sequence of assembly of the cabinet cabinet

The cabinet must begin to be assembled by connecting the side wall to the bottom. First, assemble the structure according to the drawing. This design has already a certain stability and rigidity. If you do not follow this rule, then the side walls and the wardrobe will tilt and tear out the confirmations, breaking the bottom and partitions.

The last element to be installed is the cabinet roof.

Nailing the back wall of fiberboard to the wardrobe

The sequence of screwing the back wall when assembling the wardrobe

Fiberboard is screwed along the perimeter of the cabinet, to intermediate vertical walls and horizontal walls.

Before screwing the fiberboard, it is necessary to set the cabinet diagonally so that the diagonal A \u003d B. A diagonal discrepancy of a maximum of 5 mm is allowed, otherwise there will be problems when installing drawers and doors.

Fiberboard begin to fasten on top, check the diagonals. If the diagonals are uneven, then align with a slight pressure on the side wall.

After checking the diagonals, we fix one of the corners and check the diagonals again. If the diagonal "left", then unscrew the corner and set the diagonals again. Further fasten fiberboard along the perimeter of the cabinet and the axes of the internal filling parts. Screwing pitch 150-200mm.

In the lower guide, it is enough to make 2-4 holes along the axis.

Fastening of the upper and lower rails for compartment doors

First, we fix the top rail so that it does not protrude beyond the side wall of the closet.