How to install drywall walls with your own hands. Drywall installation rules: walls, ceiling. Assembling the metal frame

How to install drywall sheets.

Installation of a frame for plasterboard.

Installation of plasterboard on the walls.

Wall pretreatment.

Necessary materials and tools for gluing the material.

Drywall has long occupied its niche in the market. It enjoys well-deserved popularity, as it is a versatile material that can be attached to walls or ceilings or used as a partition. However, depending on the place of installation, installation methods will change, various tricks will appear that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Drywall is used to level walls and ceilings in a room.

There are several ways to install drywall on walls: on a metal or wooden frame or on glue. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is worth considering them in more detail.

Mounting on the walls in a frame way: the necessary materials and tools.

This method is applicable to any premises, regardless of their size and purpose. The frame is used when closing walls and ceilings, as well as when erecting a partition from gypsum plasterboard. It is worth noting that the crate is assembled in almost the same way in all cases.

Nomenclature of profiles for GKL.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools. Needed for work.

mounting knife.

self-tapping screws for wood or metal (depending on the material of the crate.

scissors or a hacksaw for metal.

profiles or rails.

mounting brackets.

Return to the table of contents.

Wall preparation and foundation marking.

Important! Substrate preparation includes cleaning the wall from easily peelable coatings, repairing in the presence of significant damage, and removing deformations.

Scheme of a single-level plasterboard ceiling.

The next step is marking. From the wall to be closed, it is necessary to indent the distance necessary for laying communications and insulation. Further, the location of the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling, as well as on the walls, is noted. All guides must be in the same plane. Then it is noted where the rack profiles will be located. The distance between them should be 40-60 cm. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the distance so that the edges of the drywall sheets lie on the profiles, and do not fall into the gap between them.

Return to the table of contents.

Installation of a frame for plasterboard.

Next, the frame is assembled. First of all, guide profiles are installed on the floor and ceiling. The reliability of the entire structure will depend on them, so they need to be fixed very carefully. Installation of profiles is carried out using dowels with a pitch of 40-60 cm. Further, guides are installed on the walls in a similar way.

Scheme of fastening a metal frame for drywall.

Then, mounting plumb lines are mounted to the wall along the line of the supporting profiles. The step is 60 cm. On adjacent lines, it is desirable to shift the plumb lines relative to each other. You can arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. This will give greater strength and rigidity to the structure. Next, rack profiles are inserted into the guides and bred in their places. They are attached to the guides and to the plumb lines. Self-tapping screws can be used for this operation. If the plumb lines have “ears”, they should be wrapped inside the frame. After installing the vertical profiles, proceed to the installation of the transverse ones. All operations are performed in the same way.

If the profile is too long, it can be cut using a hacksaw or metal shears. If, on the contrary, it is short, then it is necessary to increase the length using special connectors. The crate of wooden bars is assembled in a similar way.

Return to the table of contents.

Installation of plasterboard on the walls.

The last step is the installation of drywall. However, before proceeding to the final stage, it is necessary to resolve the issue of sound and heat insulation of the room. As a heater, you can use mineral wool, foam sheets, cork. All of these materials absorb sound well. The installation of communications, the laying of engineering systems is carried out before the walls are sewn up with gypsum boards. When the room is insulated and all communications are connected, you can proceed with the installation of sheets. To do this, you need metal screws.

Important! GKL is drilled every 30-40 cm to all frame profiles.

During installation, the following rules must be observed.

The scheme of processing drywall seams.

Sheets should lie down in a checkerboard pattern or like brickwork.

GKL can be mounted both vertically and horizontally.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the material at a right angle, deviations are unacceptable. The heads must be recessed into the drywall by at least 1 mm. The tails go out of the profile by at least 10 mm.

The panels must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center to prevent sagging. The edges of the sheets must fit on the profile.

When fastening the GKL, it is necessary to indent from the edge of the sheet with a factory cut of at least 10 mm, with its own cut of at least 15 mm.

Return to the table of contents.

Pros and cons of this type of drywall installation.

This method has many more positive aspects, it is more often used.

walls are leveled even with significant differences, pits or ledges.

masked all the flaws of the foundation.

secure fastening of drywall.

there is no need for careful preparation of the base, its alignment, etc.

the possibility of additional insulation and soundproofing of the room.

no "wet" operations.

can be used in any room.

There are only three main disadvantages.

reduction in the size of the room.

low maintainability.

there is no solid wall behind the GKL.

If assembling the frame seems too troublesome, then you can try simply gluing the material to the walls.

Return to the table of contents.

Fixing drywall with glue.

It is not always possible to glue drywall. It can only be used if the following conditions are met.

The scheme of wall cladding with drywall on a metal frame.

There is no need for additional heat or sound insulation of the room. It is impossible to qualitatively fix the GKL on mineral wool or other material: after a while it will fall off.

Irregularities on the walls do not exceed 20 mm. Otherwise, the sheets will warp, like the base, or will not stick, because on the cavities the glue simply will not reach the wall.

The height of the room does not exceed the length of the sheet. The standard panel size is 2500x1200 mm. If the height is greater, then you will have to look for a sheet 3 m long, but not everywhere there are such. It is not allowed to increase the length using cut pieces. It is difficult to do exactly and at the same time with high quality.

If at least one of these conditions is not met, it is better to use the frame method of fastening. It is impossible to glue drywall on the ceiling: in this case, a crate must be used. Of the special advantages of this type of installation, space savings can be noted. It is very handy in small spaces.

To perform a high-quality installation of drywall with your own hands, you will need some tools, the same as.

Screwdriver;
the building level is not shorter than 1.20 meters;
impact drill or puncher with a thin drill;
roulette;
special planer for GKL (optional);
square;
a hammer;
metal scissors;
tracer cord chopping;
water level from 10 meters;
a simple pencil, marker, chalk, charcoal, graphite - whatever;
construction knife for cutting drywall.

It's minimum. Apart from, of course, consumables - the actual drywall sheets, guide profiles, materials for suspensions and hardware.

GKL installation technologies

It is necessary to distinguish between the installation of GKL on the ceiling and on the walls. The technology has certain differences. Any drywall is mounted on a metal profile or on wooden bars. If you decide to sheathe the ceiling, then you need to fix the profile at intervals of 35-45 cm. This means that you need to take into account that much more material will be required than when finishing plasterboard walls. And we also need vertical hangers, which are not on the walls. In the second case, the profile is fastened at intervals of approximately 60 cm, and additional horizontal fasteners are used, which are fixed with four (!) Self-tapping screws to avoid backlash.

Walls

Marking the wall for fixing drywall

Walls are marked in the simplest way. In the corners at a distance of five centimeters from the base of the ceiling, you need to draw a vertical line, controlling its level. In the opposite corner, another perfectly even vertical line is made in the same way. Further, with the help of a tracer, the drawn lines must be connected both along the floor and along the ceiling. The drawn line will become the perimeter of the future wall.

Further from the edge of the wall at a distance of 55-65 cm, it is necessary to mark vertical lines at the same level. Markings are made on them every 50 cm in a checkerboard pattern (place of installation of the ES fastener).

This is if you have flat ceilings and floors by default. Otherwise, the control points must be controlled horizontally with a water level.

The perimeter guides are the base. Next, we make a regular cage, bypassing niches and ledges. The length of the horizontal element ES is the distance of the finishing rails from the wall. You can do without them if you do not plan to insulate the walls. Then the finishing guides are attached directly to the wall.

It is cut with an ordinary construction knife, cut through to half the thickness of the sheet, then gently breaks off;
It is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws 3.5-4.5 cm long. The caps of the self-tapping screws are recessed in the sheet by 2-3 mm;
The distance between the screws is no more than 30 cm. According to professional experience;
It is marked and cut out not immediately by a wholesale batch, but as one sheet is mounted, the next one is measured;
Joints and mates should be in the middle of the guide profile;
It is advisable to chamfer at the joints. In advance, of course.

Ceiling

Plasterboard ceiling preparation and marking

Before proceeding with the installation of drywall sheets on the ceiling, determine and establish the ideal horizontal level of the room. This is where the water level comes in handy again. It is easy to use and does not require any special purchase costs.

1. When beating the horizontal level in all corners of the room, both internal and external, put marks.
2. The distance to these marks (from the ceiling) is measured in each corner of the room. Next to each such mark, right on the wall, we write the corresponding distance. This will be necessary to accurately determine the lowest point of the base of the ceiling, from which, when installing materials, you will repel when you lower the ceiling in the room.
3. If it is supposed to fix the GKL with the help of profiles, then the ceiling in this case can be lowered by 4-5 cm, it will not work less. Based on this option, it is not difficult to calculate the optimal height to which the ceiling will fall.
4. Then all points are connected with a chopping cord. According to the obtained height along the perimeter, a U-profile is attached directly to the base. After that, along the two walls on the ceiling, you need to make marks 45-50 cm apart from each other, and connect them.
5. Now along the other walls, also on the ceiling, marks are also made every 40 cm. Opposite points are connected by lines. On the ceiling, parallel lines will be obtained after 40 cm.
6. Further on the lines that go through 50 cm, the future place is marked where the vertical suspension will be installed. On each adjacent line, the marks must be shifted by 25 cm. Suspensions on the ceiling are preferably mounted in a checkerboard pattern.

Mounting the frame for drywall

After all the markings, ES elements or knitting needles with an eye and a swivel suspension can be mounted on the ceiling. Then, with a mini-grinder or scissors for metal, the profile is cut to size, but not of the desired length, but about 1 cm less. Insert it into the U-profile that is on the wall. After installing the entire estimated number of profiles in the horizontal level, they are connected to each other transversely with the fastenings of the “crab” system and the CD profile. Here is the frame on the ceiling and ready!

Let's continue with the ceiling. You will need a UD guide profile. Be sure to consider the height to which the ceiling will be lowered. If this height does not exceed 11-13 cm, the universal hanger ES 60/125 will suit you. If it is planned to lower the ceiling to a greater height, then you cannot do without a special knitting needle with an eye and a suspension with a swivel mechanism and an expanding element.

If it is planned to install the GKL on concrete, purchase a driven dowel. Wooden coating involves a special wood screw. Do not forget about the longitudinal connectors for the profile, crabs and self-tapping screws 9.5 and 25 mm.

Installation of sheets and putty joints

The frame is ready, you can already proceed with the installation of the gypsum boards themselves. Both on the ceiling and on the wall, the sheets are attached in almost the same way. The material must adhere very tightly to the finished base.

Each drywall sheet is attached to the metal profile with self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screw should be screwed in so that its top does not protrude, but also not go deep into the drywall sheet. Do not fasten the screws close to each other in order to avoid breaking through the paper layer of the GKL. The optimal mounting distance is 25-30 cm.

After the drywall sheets are fixed, all seams are carefully puttied with a special putty with the participation of a reinforcing tape using a spatula and a small trowel.

Addition

When installing GKL on any basis, you should consider in what environment the material will be used. If the humidity of the room does not exceed the "usual" indicators, simple sheets of drywall will suit you. In all rooms with high humidity, it is necessary to use moisture-resistant plasterboard. Be sure to take into account the structure of the surface of the wall on which the plasterboard will be mounted. The size of the dowel will depend on the density of the material from which the wall is made.

Drywall in modern life is one of the most common finishing materials. He is gaining his popularity due to the mass of positive qualities, with a small list of negative ones, and in the price category it does not hit the budget.

This material is chosen for finishing the room, and the question arises of its installation. Installing drywall on the walls is not too difficult, but you can’t call it simple either. There are two ways to fix drywall:

• Frameless method. The simplest, since it should not provide for the construction of a frame structure. Mostly for fastening a special glue is used.
• Frame method. Quite laborious, since it requires the construction of a frame base, on which drywall will be directly fixed.

Let's look at each method, its pros and cons, the installation process. And yet we will decide how to fix the drywall to the wall, and which method is better and more reliable.

What is this article about

Frameless way

The first method, and the easiest to implement, is frameless. For the implementation of the skin in this way, there are a number of necessary conditions, namely:

• The base for fastening should be quite strong. There should be no damage, fungal infections, etc.;
• The surface must be waterproofed and protected from freezing and moisture;
• The wall must be cleaned of all kinds of debris, dust, layers of paint, wallpaper, etc.;
• And, of course, the lack of curvature, or to have a slight curvature.

Here are a small number of features and factors that are directly important when using this method of fastening.

Now consider what we need to fix drywall. Of course, after the question of how to attach drywall to the wall becomes, the question arises of what tool and what materials are needed, here is the main list:

• These are wall plasterboard sheets. This is our main material to work with;
• Gypsum mix. Useful for sealing seams, roughness and uneven walls;
• Of course, you need a container to prepare the solution;
• A jigsaw, or an ordinary one, is better, of course, electric;
• A knife is a blade, in the common people a painting knife;
• A rubber mallet is useful for leveling the sheets;
• A natural attribute for all work is the building level, fishing line and tape measure;
• Rule;
• And the last tool on our list will be a spatula.

Done with the list of tools. Now having prepared them, you need to go directly to the installation of drywall on the walls. And consider the order of work.
The procedure for performing work for sewing up a wall with drywall in a frameless way.

Step-by-step instruction

On this, the installation of a drywall structure in a frameless way can be considered complete. We wait until everything dries, putty the seams, install the baseboards, and you're done.

Frame mounting method

It's time to consider the second method of plasterboard wall cladding. Frame method. It is, of course, more time-consuming, complex and costly, but it has a number of advantages over the previous method, let's consider how this design is better:

• When installed in this way, the heat and sound insulation of the room increases;
• Unlike the frameless method, it does not require the removal of much attention to surface preparation;
• Makes it possible to eliminate the global curvature of the walls;
• It is used without problems in damp and freezing areas, for their protection and insulation.

Let's see what a wireframe connection looks like:

As it has already become clear, for the installation of such a structure, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a frame, to which plasterboard sheets are subsequently fixed. There are only a few material options for creating a frame base:

• Wooden frame. Quite cheap, but short-lived when mounted on a freezing or damp wall, as it quickly corrodes.
• Frame made of galvanized profile. More expensive, but at the same time durable, easy to use, working with it is many times easier than with a wooden frame.

Consideration of this type of fastening, we will stop on the use of a galvanized profile. Here you can read about fastening drywall to a wooden crate.

Materials and tools

Of course, there are a number of tools and materials that will be needed during installation, and let's get to know them:

• The main material, as it was, and remains wall drywall.
• The next thing we need is either wooden profiles or galvanized metal profiles (we opted for galvanized ones).
• To fix the frame, you will need metal hangers
• The suspensions themselves, of course, need to be fixed to the wall, and screws and dowels will help with this.
• Of course, you can’t do without a drill and a puncher for preparing holes for fasteners.
• To seal the seams, putty is useful, and of course, a spatula.
• The profile will need to be adjusted to the desired size, either a grinder or metal shears will help in this.
• To check the evenness of the surface, you need a level and a plumb line.
• During work, everything needs to be measured and, of course, a tape measure should be used.
• And the last on our list is a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, where without them, if you need to fix something.

Step-by-step instruction

We figured out the tool, and now it's time to proceed to the direct work on fixing drywall. When installing drywall sheets in this way, there are a number of features, so you need to strictly know the algorithm of work and follow it.

And here is the algorithm itself, a step-by-step instruction for performing work:

• The first step is to take measurements of the premises, measurements of the required amount of material, and calculations related to these data;
• Further, the layout of the profiles and suspensions is carried out;
• After that, we fasten the profile, horizontally guides (to the floor and ceiling), vertically lateral, and then also vertically in increments of 50 centimeters bearing;
• Suspensions, in turn, are placed at a distance of 70–80 centimeters;
• Thus, the frame is almost ready. It remains to securely fix everything and check the fasteners. After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of drywall sheets;
• First of all, we provide a heat-insulating layer, which we make from glass wool, arranging it between the profiles;
• Now we can proceed directly to the fastening of the sheets. We arrange a sheet of drywall, check the evenness of the surface, and then fasten the sheet to the profiles with self-tapping screws, while screwing it in so that the head of the self-tapping screw is hidden in the sheet with a depth of 2-3 millimeters;
• The first sheet is ready, in the same way we mount the following sheets, do not forget that you need to mount drywall so that the seams are offset and there are no cross joints;
• After installing the drywall directly, you should do the seams, they need to be puttied. Holes from screws are also subject to putty, since they also need to be hidden.

So the second method of fixing came to an end. In fact, it is used in most cases to quickly level the wall surface, since installation is not very expensive, and it generally levels the surface, which gives the wall a new life.

Thus, there are two main types of plasterboard sheathing, and you now know about them, and then, which one is more suitable for your room, the choice is strictly yours. I would only like to note that with the usual preparation of a wall for finishing, you can use the first method, but with large irregularities, dampness, and freezing, the second one is more suitable.

You have decided on your own to make repairs in your apartment or country house. It's time to start thinking about materials. GKL is very well suited for finishing. But the question arises - how to mount drywall on the wall? And in general, is it advisable to choose this material in your case? To begin with, we will deal with the advantages and disadvantages of drywall sheets.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard wall cladding

The very first thing worth mentioning is the versatility and ease of installation. Even if you have never had experience with drywall, you can easily lay drywall on the wall with your own hands. This material can even be bent, which will please those who want not only to decorate the walls, but to create graceful shapes and stunning room design.

Gypsorkaton has a lot of advantages:

• Price. Repair will not be expensive, since drywall is a fairly cheap material. It also does not require special expensive tools. The exception is, which will significantly speed up the progress of work, will allow you to create the perfect edge for joining. But it will cost no more than 1000 rubles.
• Convenience not only in installation, but also transportation (light weight allows it to be transported even by one person without assistance)
• Sheets can not only be bent by wetting with water, but also cut along or across. Both of these qualities allow you to give drywall almost any shape.
• The components of the sheet are plaster and cardboard. Therefore, for the environment, as it is completely natural
• Using this material, you get excellent sound and heat insulation. This quality is invaluable in high-rise buildings with thin walls and noisy neighbors.
• You can mount it on a wall with little curvature by simply placing it on the adhesive. If the wall has a serious unevenness, then a frame made of a metal profile or wood is used.

Data-lazy-type="image" data-src="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/gvl-1024x581..jpg 1024w, https://remontcap.ru/wp- content/uploads/2017/09/gvl-300x170..jpg 1418w" sizes="(max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px">

What are the disadvantages of drywall? The only serious one is the fear of moisture. But on sale there are many varieties of drywall, which should be chosen based on where the installation will be carried out, including moisture-resistant drywall. Also, a special water-repellent primer will help fight moisture.

What kind of GKL sheet should you choose? When decorating bedrooms or a living room, you should not bother and buy ordinary sheets, while you will save money. If you have to mount the sheathing in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then you need more expensive moisture-resistant drywall sheets.

How to lay drywall on wood and metal frames

Which framework is better?

If you want to correct defects and curvature of the walls, making them perfectly even, then, in addition to the drywall itself, you should take care of the frame. There are two options - metal and wood. Previously, everything was done only on a wooden frame, wooden beams were affordable, and this played an important role. Later, they were replaced by a metal profile, mainly galvanized, which, despite the higher price category, gained popularity due to its greater reliability.

Among the shortcomings of the tree, we also note the fear of moisture and an unpredictable reaction after the final drying.

Wooden frame installation

If you have extra well-dried bars at hand, the frame can be assembled from them. It's much cheaper.

Such a frame can be erected both on a wooden and on a concrete wall. Fastening to wood is done using ordinary nails or self-tapping screws with a large pitch, to concrete - already with the help of dowels.

Let's figure it out in order how to properly mount a wooden frame and drywall on the walls. First you need a thorough preparation of the surface of the wall. Having cleaned it of the remnants of wallpaper and other things, we treat it with a primer with antiseptic properties. Having received a clean and dried surface, we proceed to the installation process itself.

To carry out the work you will need:

• Fasteners
• Wooden bars
• Level
• Hacksaw
• Roulette

The working process:

1. We start with markup. On all surfaces of the room (walls, ceiling, floor, as well as corners), using a tape measure, we mark the attachment points for the guide rails. The distance between the fasteners must be equal to 200 mm;
2. We saw off the bars of the required size, fix them at the marked points, the control of the correct position is carried out by level;
3. First, it is worth fixing the bars on the ceiling, then on the floor, and at the end, making sure that everything converges, fix the elements on the wall. Since it is on the vertical guide rails that all the main load is distributed, the fastening must be of high quality and reliable. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can also use screws and metal corners.

Important! The distance from one rack to another cannot exceed 600 mm.

Electrical wiring should be hidden in special corrugated protective shells.

Jpg" alt="(!LANG: how to install drywall on a wall" width="700" height="573" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/otdelka_sten_laminatom_svoimi_rukami_C29B2E90..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px">!}

Installation of a metal frame

Now let's figure out how to properly put drywall on the wall, using a metal frame already. For this purpose, a galvanized profile is most often used. Compared to wood, it has much greater strength and reliability, is not afraid of moisture and speeds up installation.

As with the tree, the whole process starts with markup. First, we check the height difference on the wall with a level. These irregularities should, if possible, be eliminated and taken into account when marking.

1. Fixing the profile. You will need two for each wall. The first is fixed from above along the wall, stepping back from the ceiling by 800-100 mm. The second is parallel to the first on the floor;
2. If you need to even out the unevenness, place an element of the desired thickness under the profile, which will add rigidity;
3. In order to be able to mount the rack elements, we install the profile on the floor so that the groove is directed upwards, and the groove of the profile under the ceiling, on the contrary, is downwards;
4. Vertical guides are attached to the wall at the corners with screws or dowels, the indent does not exceed 400 mm;
5. In places where vertical racks will pass, suspensions are attached to the wall every 400-500 mm;
6. Then the vertical posts are inserted into the grooves of the upper and lower horizontal profiles and must be fixed;
7. At the same time, the vertical profile is attached to the suspensions, after checking everything in terms of level.

Data-lazy-type="image" data-src="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/montazh-pp-profiley.jpg" alt="(!LANG:how to install drywall on the wall" width="640" height="479" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/montazh-pp-profiley..jpg 300w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/montazh-pp-profiley-174x131..jpg 70w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px">!}

Thermal insulation of walls when laying drywall

Drywall has good thermal insulation properties, but by itself it will not cope. Before you start laying the GKL on the frame, you need to take care of the heat-insulating materials.

The most commonly used boards are expanded polystyrene and mineral wool. The thickness of the thermal insulation depends on the width of the profile ribs or frame bars.

In the intervals between the vertical posts, segments of material for thermal insulation are laid. When all voids are closed, a vapor barrier membrane is attached over the thermal insulation. A special tape is glued at the joints of the film.

Installation of drywall on the frame

Having assembled the frame and laid the thermal insulation, we come to the final stage. Now is the time to figure out how to properly lay drywall on the walls.

First, we calculate how many drywall sheets are required, based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. But it costs about 10-20% more to take, the material consumption largely depends on the experience of the installer.

Before starting work, transfer everything to paper, this stage will allow you to quickly navigate and cut the sheets into the necessary parts in advance. Then the drywall is attached to the frame, with the seams between the sheets should be located in the middle of the vertical profile, and the horizontal bar at the back should be in the middle of the sheet. This will provide the strongest and most durable construction.

Jpg" alt="(!LANG: how to install drywall on a wall" width="620" height="349" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/maxresdefault-1024x576..jpg 300w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/maxresdefault.jpg 1600w" sizes="(max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px">!}

Bonding drywall to walls

Usually drywall sheets are attached to the frame, but this reduces the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, since the gap between the real and false walls is quite large. This is of great importance in rooms with a small area, where every centimeter is important. Then they use the technique of frameless wall cladding, in other words, putting drywall on glue.

Jpg" alt="(!LANG: how to install drywall on a wall" width="860" height="500" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/gipsokarton_na_klej_k_stene..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 860px) 100vw, 860px">!}

Depending on the amount of curvature of the wall surface, different techniques are used. If it does not exceed 20 mm, then use Perflix glue, applying it in small slides, and press the drywall with your hands against the wall.

If the unevenness is more than 50 mm, only narrow strips of drywall are put on the glue, on which, after drying, using a special gypsum-based putty, the sheets themselves are attached. Everything happens in the following order:

1. We clean the wall from the remnants of the past repair. We make markings, level and plumb line will help you with this;
2. We process the surface with a primer, which must be chosen based on the characteristics of this wall;
3. After drying, glue is applied to the drywall with slides, the distance between the slides is about 20-30 cm;
4. We press the sheet against the wall, tap it with a rubberized mallet.

That's all, you glued the drywall to the wall with your own hands, it remains only to wait for it to dry completely.

Modern "dry" building technologies are popular in the arrangement of internal partitions and walls. And if earlier wood or materials based on it were mainly used for this, now drywall is leading. He also confidently pushed back plasters, which previously had no alternative when leveling the surface. And the only difficulty of this method is to correctly assemble the frame for drywall and fix it to the wall.

It is technologically very difficult to level the wall with plaster.
Considering that a flat wall in horizontal and vertical levels is very rare, the geometry of the room is usually very different from the ideal one. Any room can be checked with a laser level, and not a single parallel pair of opposite surfaces, as well as right angles, can be found.
If you plaster without reinforcing the surface with a mesh, then the total thickness of the solution should not be more than 5 cm. And this layer can only level the wall, but not correct general geometry defects. And the drywall crate can be perfectly set, taking into account all levels and exact observance of design angles.

The process of applying plaster is also not easy. It is necessary to expose and fix the whole system of beacons, apply three layers (spray, primer, cover), level each of them and wipe. And this is without taking into account the fact that each portion must be prepared separately, and have time to use it up before the solution begins to set. And the entire wall from corner to corner must be processed in one working day so that there are no “cold” seams - otherwise a crack will appear there over time.

That is, the application of plaster requires professionalism from the performer, and plasterboard wall cladding is within the power of any “home master”.

The only drawback of the method is the reduction in the usable volume of the room. But if you do not take into account the thickness of the gypsum plasterboard (and it is not more than the leveling layer of the mortar), then we are talking about a loss of 30 mm on each wall if metal profiles are used for drywall, and 30-40 mm - when installing a crate made of wooden beams.

Skin features

Sheathing on the crate of internal walls has many advantages, the main thing is to know how to assemble the frame. One of the advantages is the possibility of hidden laying of engineering communications and installation of some equipment. But in each case, an “individual approach” is needed.
For example, in the kitchen, bathroom or bathroom, water pipes are laid behind the plasterboard sheathing. And for mixers, it is necessary to provide a mortgage to which a water socket is attached. In these cases, it is necessary to make a gap between the main wall and the casing, taking into account the diameter of the pipes and the dimensions of the fittings.
Even more space is required for mounting the toilet installation - an additional frame is often made for it in the form of a “superstructure” from the general one.

Laying cables and wires does not require much space, but the standard socket box (mounting box) has a height of 45 mm. It is necessary either to retreat from the main wall to this distance, or to make a recess in concrete or brick in advance.
Another advantage is the possibility of arranging decorative niches and shelves. Moreover, niches can also carry a payload. For example, they are often made to hang a TV panel on the wall.
And for its fastening it is necessary to provide embedded elements. And this is the only drawback that can be called for a plasterboard wall - in order to hang something heavy on it, this section must be reinforced with a profile or beam, and the load must be redistributed on the frame.

Wall preparation

It is much easier to sheathe walls with drywall in a new building - a whole range of measures disappears. Therefore, below is a list of works of the preparatory stage of wall cladding during the overhaul of old housing:
Depending on the wall decoration, they dismantle the old sheathing, remove the wallpaper, and clean the crumbling sections of the plaster.
Inspect the surface for cracks and crevices. If any are found, they must be repaired with a repair compound. For bricks, foam blocks and concrete, these are polymer-sand mixtures, polyurethane foam or sealants. Such measures are necessary to improve the thermal insulation of external walls and the soundproofing properties of internal partitions.

Having previously de-energized the network, remove wall lighting fixtures, switches and sockets, insulate bare wires. If cables are to be replaced, they are dismantled up to the junction boxes.
Porous and weak surfaces are treated with a deep penetration strengthening primer, wooden walls with an antiseptic composition.

Marking for frame installation

When you just need to level the walls, without arranging niches, installations or laying pipes, then the loss of usable volume can be minimized. For surfaces with minor “relief” defects, minimal deviations from horizontal and vertical levels, there is a way to fix drywall to the wall without crate.
This is a standard technology for fixing plates with glue, which is applied to the wrong side either evenly (with a notched trowel) or in a strip along the perimeter and “cakes” on the rest.

In other cases, the installation of the crate is necessary, and marking is required for its installation. When working with "volumetric" structures, it is better to use a laser level, but you can get by with the traditional method.

To do this, you will need the following tools:

• building corner;
• roulette;
• plumb;
• level;
• chopping cord;
• ordinary twine;
• pencil.

The process itself looks like this:
Find the most prominent area on the surface. And if this is not an influx or swelling of plaster that can be cut off, then such a place is taken as a starting point. From it, stepping back a little from the wall, with the help of a plumb line, the projection of “zero” is transferred to the floor. The same mark is made on the ceiling. Therefore, a small gap is needed so that the plumb line does not “cling” to the wall. They beat off the first line on the floor, check its perpendicularity to the adjacent walls. Stepping back a certain distance along the edges, mark the following points. Transfer their projections to the ceiling.
Parallel to the bottom beat off the top line.
If the entire room is sheathed with drywall, this algorithm is used to mark all walls. In this case, you can make the geometry of the room correct. For a square or rectangle, the easiest way is to check if the diagonals are equal and, if necessary, adjust the markup so that the corners are right and the lines are parallel.

Then the verticals are “beaten off” for the installation of direct suspensions, with the help of which the profiles are fastened to the wall. To do this, on the floor and ceiling, stepping back from the corner of about 10 cm, lay points on both lines in increments of 60 cm and transfer them to the wall. This dimension is a multiple of the width of the drywall sheet of 120 cm, and it provides a central stiffener, and the seams will lie exactly in the middle of the vertical elements of the crate. The resulting marks are connected by lines.
After that, you can proceed to the installation of the frame.

Frame installation

There are two options for how to fix drywall to the wall using the crate:
modern technology using metal profiles;
the classic way of sheathing planes using a wooden beam.

Metallic profile

In order to save usable volume, the crate for wall cladding is made of CD ceiling metal profiles, the height of which is only 28 mm, and the size of the mounting shelf is 60 mm. They are paired with UD guides, with a base width of 28 mm and a height of 27 mm.

Note. This is not the only item in the Knauf range with such small profile dimensions. There are also U-shaped elastic tires for "small-sized" drywall sheathing of flat wooden planes. They are used as crates for attics or false ceilings. And if the task is to finish the walls of a timber or frame house using drywall (for example, tiles, decorative plaster or wallpaper for painting), then this is one of the best options.

In addition to these "proprietary" CD and UD profiles with a metal thickness of 0.6 mm, domestic manufacturers produce their counterparts with thinner walls - 0.45-0.55 mm. This, of course, leads to a decrease in strength, but the sheathing is not a partition, and the connection with the main wall will provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.

The only condition is that when mounting a frame from such a metal profile on a wall, reduce the pitch of the attachment points by 20%. There are also economic systems. These are sets of analogues of the UD guide profile with a width of 17 mm, and a rack CD with a width of 47 mm. They are specially produced for wall cladding of small rooms - toilets, bathrooms and dressing rooms.

Installation of a frame made of metal profiles

First, guide profiles for drywall are attached to the floor and ceiling. Dowels (or anchors) are selected depending on the nature of the materials, the pitch of the fixation points is 40-60 cm.

Advice. To reduce the level of structural noise, the guides to the surface are mounted with a gasket made of soundproof tape 30 mm wide.

Then you need to attach direct suspensions to the walls. The vertical layout step is 80-100 cm. To place a standard height, 3 pieces are enough.
CD profiles are inserted between the guides, attached to the suspensions, the level is checked and finally fixed from above and below.

The length of the drywall sheet from the standard row may not be enough to cover the section of the wall from floor to ceiling with one piece. Therefore, from above and below, alternately, additional jumpers are attached between the racks so that the seam of the whole sheet and the additional piece of GKL falls in the middle of this profile.

The offset of the layout is necessary so that the horizontal joints do not converge in one line and do not form an X-shaped intersection with the vertical ones. Example: if the length of the sheet is 200 cm, then in the first span an additional rib is mounted at this distance from the floor, and in the second - from the ceiling.

wooden beam

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame satisfies the conditions of dry rooms. The recommended size of the beam section is 40x60 mm. This thickness is sufficient to support the weight of the GCR. And the width - to ensure the recommended location of the attachment points relative to the ends of the sheet (10mm) and the edges of the timber (20mm).

Otherwise, the wooden frame has a standard device - the distances between the posts and lintels are the same as between the profiles. Only the ways of attaching the elements to each other differ. For this, perforated steel corners are usually used so that all the components of the crate are located in the same plane.