Round large table with your own hands. DIY wooden table: the secrets of a home master. Sizes that are comfortable for a person

The circle is an ideal figure from the point of view of geometry, which has been of particular importance for a person throughout the history of civilization: the use of the circle was in all spheres of life, from the occult sciences to diplomacy, not to mention its practical application (bright examples are the wheel, potter's wheel, etc.). Many expressions referring to the circle have become common nouns:

• In the circle of friends - where they will not betray or deceive;
• All-round defense or mutual responsibility - the joint protection of common interests;
• The Knights of the Round Table, whose devotion and solidarity went down in history - and where did the expression "sit down at the round table" come from (that is, find mutual understanding, come to a common decision through discussion).

Dining Round Table Features

Psychologists have noticed that dinner at a round table takes place in a cozy, calm atmosphere, and conversations at such a table acquire special confidence - you can’t sit at the head of the table or in an honored place for guests, everyone is equal at the round table and everyone can see other participants in the meal (which important for comfortable communication).

Unfortunately, the layout of many kitchens rarely allows hosts to enjoy breakfast or lunch at a round table - in terms of optimal use of space, such a table is very difficult to fit in a small room. However, if the kitchen in your apartment or house is spacious enough, we recommend that you get such a table: a dining round table is not just a piece of furniture in the house, it is a symbol of a large and friendly family where peace and mutual understanding reign.

How to make a round table out of wood to become a family heirloom

With all the variety of models offered today on the furniture market, it is always much more pleasant and, importantly, cheaper - to make a round table with your own hands. Firstly, you can vary the height and diameter of the countertop. Secondly, depending on the style of the kitchen, you can give the table an appropriate design. Thirdly, home-made furniture is always individual, in contrast to impersonal factory “stamping”. To make such a table is quite simple, if you thoughtfully and scrupulously study all the stages of its manufacture, diligently completing all the steps - from the first to the last.

Materials and tools

To make a round chipboard kitchen table that has all the qualities of a classic dining table, you need to choose the right material for its top and other structural elements. The most optimal choice here would be laminated chipboard (25 mm thick) and wood for the manufacture of legs (120x50 mm timber or 60x60 mm timber). The beam may have other dimensions, but preferably at least 50 mm. Instead of laminated chipboard, you can use birch plywood 35 mm thick - thanks to this, you can significantly increase the color gamut of the table coloring, but the cost of the table will also increase significantly.

Also, we will need the following tools: an electric jigsaw, a drill or a screwdriver, a grinder (or a grinding attachment for a drill).

Of the fastening materials, you will need wood screws and confirmations (it is advisable to purchase a multi-stage drill for holes for them along with confirmations).

To decorate the end sections of finished parts, you need to purchase a special edge tape, and for parts made from lumber, you need to buy wood tinting to match the chipboard color and varnish for finishing these parts.

Now you can make a detailed drawing, concretizing the reasoning:

• As a rule, the optimal height of kitchen tables is from 750 to 800 mm: when drawing up a drawing, you need to take into account all the vertical parameters of the table design that make up this figure - legs, connecting structure, countertop thickness.
• The size of the countertop is the personal choice of the master: before making a dining round table, you need to evaluate the size of the room where it will stand.

Option 1. A round dining table that is easy to make even for a beginner

Materials:

• For countertops: a square of birch plywood or chipboard 1500x1500 mm.
• For tie ring: 1280mm square of the same material.
• For table legs, 4 bars 120x50x750 mm are needed. and 2 strips measuring 1110x120x25 from the material of the countertop.

• In the slats, we cut out grooves for a cruciform connection (Fig. 2). We connect the strips groove to groove.
• With the help of confirmations, we connect the legs with the slats, as shown in Fig. 3.
• We attach the finished pairs of legs to the connecting ring, also with the help of confirmations (in Fig. 1, 2).

We attach the tabletop to the underframe with self-tapping screws, 35-40 mm long.

We carefully grind all the surfaces of the table and paint it in the desired color - if the table is not made of chipboard. We close the heads of confirmations with plugs to match the color of the table.

Everything, the process is completed - you can enjoy the well-deserved comfort at the round dining table!

If the size of your kitchen does not allow even a small round table to be placed there, and your dream is to dine at just such a table, do not be discouraged. Making your own folding round table is almost as easy: it will require a little more material and a few additional fasteners.

Folding round table - one base, several options

A folding round table, made according to the principle of a book table, is the best option for a medium-sized kitchen.

Having folded one semicircular wing, it can be placed along the wall, and if necessary, you can move it to the center of the room and sit behind it with the whole large company.

Knowing the principles of connecting wooden parts, from diagram No. 4 above, you can easily understand the entire design of a folding round table. All dimensions are affixed - it is only necessary to decipher some designations.

1 and 2 - table top, and part 1 is static, and 2 is movable;

3 - legs of a round folding table attached to the bars of the crossbeams 4.5 and 6 with the help of metal furniture corners (end, flat - 2 for each leg);

Moreover, the crossbar 5 cuts into the crossbar 4 exactly in the middle, and the crossbar 6, together with the leg, serves as a support for the folding part of the round table and moves on the simplest hinge, arranged from a conventional bolt (the turning point is marked with a cross).

7 - removable decorative strip, fastened with wooden dowels to the end part of the folding "wing".

8 - stopper of the movable leg.

It remains to be added that the procedure for making a table remains the same: cutting, fitting parts, assembly, finishing. Your dream came true with your own hands, congratulations!

There are no such owners who would not like to furnish their home with stylish, beautiful, practical furniture. One of the elements of the interior, which cannot be dispensed with in any home, is a table. Despite the wide selection of these products, many home craftsmen try to make a round table with their own hands, because this way you can be sure that the product will fit perfectly into the interior. This solution has its pros and cons associated with some process difficulties.

A round table is an excellent option for creating a comfortable environment in the kitchen, living room, children's room, veranda, gazebo. The absence of corners eliminates the possibility of bruises, contributes to an atmosphere of comfort and intimacy. However, it should be remembered that such a piece of furniture will not fit into every interior.

If you have skills in handling household tools, patience and attentiveness, making a round table is not difficult at all.

The decision to make a round table out of wood yourself has the following advantages:

1. Saving the family budget. Factory products are much more expensive. The added value is several times higher than the price of raw materials. The cost of making a round table with your own hands includes only the purchase of wood and fasteners.
2. Choice of model. It is not always possible to find the right product in stores. Self-design, assembly allow you to compile elements of different models, creating your own unique version.
3. Choice of size, configuration. Furniture is made for a room with a certain shape and a limited area. Sometimes the rooms are so small that not a single factory thing fits in them. The way out is a portable round table to the kitchen with your own hands.
4. Getting the necessary experience. Having assembled a very complex structure, the home master will be able to develop further, bringing new projects to life.

The downside is that it is quite difficult for beginners to make a round tabletop on their own. In addition, there is a need to purchase special tools, without which it is impossible to obtain perfectly even edges.

Family budget savings

Choice of model

Choice of size, configuration

Getting the necessary experience

Popular Designs

To make a round table with your own hands, various ideas are used that can be gleaned from magazines, thematic pages on the net, by visiting furniture stores. The most popular designs today are:

1. Coffee table. As a rule, such items are made in multi-tiered design with open shelves. Their walls simultaneously serve as legs.
2. Kitchen table. Well suited for small spaces where there is a free corner. Sloping edges allow you to freely move a piece of furniture around the room. If necessary, a sliding shelf for appliances is installed.
3. Dining. A large wooden round table will fit perfectly into the interior of the living room, which has a square shape. The product will look especially good against the background of cabinet furniture made of solid wood.
4. Folding. A do-it-yourself oval table with folding tops is an indispensable solution for small apartments. When assembled, it takes up little space, in working condition it can accommodate a large number of guests.

When developing a scheme for how to make a round table with your own hands, you should consider not only its dimensions, but also the configuration of the space under the tabletop. Presentability, stability, ease of use of the product depend on its design.

Magazine

Kitchen

Dining

Folding

The underframe of a round table can be like this:

1. 4 legs. A classic that has stood the test of time. The advantage is that such furniture is stable and easy to use. People do not need to think about where to attach their legs, as there is enough space for this.
2. With jumper. This design of the table is practical, durable, easy to manufacture. The disadvantage is that the knees of those sitting will constantly rest against the crossbar.
3. Crosshairs. This model is more suitable for rooms decorated in country style. Sitting at such a table will be moderately comfortable.
4. One pole with cross or disc. The furniture looks spectacular and takes up little space due to its compactness. Stability is achieved by mounting a heavy wide base. Otherwise, a homemade round table on one leg will constantly tip over.
5. Modern developments. Curvilinear supports, diverging from below and from above, come into fashion. Comfortable and practical models, in which the legs are connected by a threshold, which makes the sitting process more comfortable.

Priority is given to projects that best match the interior of the room where the furniture will be located.

4 legs

with jumper

One pole with cross

Crosshairs

Modern developments

Material selection

When choosing a material for the manufacture of a round table, it is necessary to take into account the following criteria:

• strength;
• durability;
• ease of processing;
• moisture resistance;
• beauty and attractiveness;
• compatibility with the interior;
• own abilities and skills.

For different parts of the table, you can use the same or different material. It all depends on the taste preferences of the owner and the initial project.

for countertop

There are such options for making a round table:

1. Wood. The massif of a pine, an oak, a beech, an ash-tree is used. The raw material is easily amenable to all types of processing, has a presentable appearance. Finished products organically fit into any interior, both indoors and outdoors. The downside is that wood is susceptible to moisture, insects and mechanical damage.
2. Chipboard. For manufacturing, it is better to take laminated boards, which are durable, affordable cost. The disadvantage of finished tables is the loose structure of the material, in which self-tapping screws do not hold well.
3. Monolithic polycarbonate. The material is beautiful, very strong, but easily scratched and melted from contact with hot objects.
4. Plywood. A round plywood table is made of a waterproof material with a thickness of at least 16 mm. The plates are durable, with a beautiful surface, but sensitive to moisture.
5. Metal. Strong and resistant to all types of impact base. The downside is that working with stainless steel requires special tools and professional skills.

For a round table top, it is advisable to choose materials that fit well into the environment. So, glass, chipboard and solid wood are suitable for the kitchen. When making a table for a gazebo, it is better to stay on plastic or metal. Such products without consequences will endure changes in humidity and temperature. We should not forget about the aesthetic side of the issue. Putting practicality and durability first, it is easy to lose in design. However, here you can find a golden mean using various surface decor options.

Wood

Chipboard

Monolithic polycarbonate

Plywood

Metal

For foundation

The best choice for a round table would be metal, which is almost impossible to damage. Depending on the place where the round table will be installed, the choice is made among the following materials:

1. profile pipe. Products from black, galvanized, stainless steel or aluminum are used.
2. Corrugated fittings. Inexpensive and durable raw materials that must be regularly cleaned and treated against corrosion.
3. Water pipes. The advantage is that ready-made shaped parts can be used to connect them.

The next in strength will be solid wood with a cross section of 20 mm or more and chipboard with a thickness of at least 12 mm. It is better to connect panels with bolts, nuts with wide washers. Self-tapping screws do not provide a sufficient margin of safety. Plywood should be discarded, as it bends even under small loads. The exception is light coffee tables that do not experience a lot of stress.

As for the base for the round table, here strength should come first, and convenience and presentability should come second.

profile pipe

corrugated reinforcement

Water pipes

solid wood

Plywood

Tools and fasteners

To make a round table from wood, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• level;
• hacksaw;
• drill;
• screwdrivers;
• compass;
• miter box;
• Grinder;
• pencil;
• clamps.

If you plan to work with metal, then you need to purchase a grinder, welding machine, electrodes. In addition, a steel disk and iron rods are useful for assembly.

To make a wooden round table with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• steel corners;
• self-tapping screws;
• boards 20 mm with selected edges;
• timber 50 x 50 mm;
• wood glue;
• furniture varnish;
• stain;
• edge tape;
• acrylic paint;
• antiseptic.

When drilling and grinding, it is advisable to use a gauze bandage, goggles. To ensure the safety of manufacturing a round wooden table, you must purchase powder and foam fire extinguishers in advance, which can be used to extinguish fires if they occur during operation.

Dimensioning and drawing preparation

The beginning of making a round table with your own hands is to determine its dimensions and configuration. The strength, stability, practicality of the product depends on the correctness of the calculations. The basis for the calculations are the following criteria:

• the total area of ​​the premises;
• the presence of other furniture, the place of its installation;
• purpose of the subject;
• leg height;
• configuration;
• the optimal size to meet the assigned tasks.

It is necessary to think over so that even on the most beautiful round table you can easily arrange a set of dishes for the whole family. In this case, it is desirable to provide a reserve for 1-2 guests.

After that, design documentation is prepared, where dimensions, hole diameters, distance between parts are drawn. Detailed detailing will allow you to perform work with a high degree of accuracy. Drawings can be done both on paper and on a computer. The choice is determined by individual skills and experience in carrying out similar work.

Master class on creating a round table made of wood

Making, assembling a round table with your own hands should be carried out in a well-ventilated area on a flat and clean surface. A bucket, broom and dustpan should be prepared in advance to keep the work area clean throughout the assembly process. If you plan to use strong-smelling and toxic substances, then it is necessary to warn family members about this, isolate pets.

Fire safety measures should also be taken into account. To extinguish a fire, you need to prepare a container with water and a powder fire extinguisher to eliminate possible ignitions of electrical appliances and tools. We should not forget about our own health. During work, injury is not excluded. To provide first aid, you need to have a first aid kit with a set of necessary tools and medicines on hand. The emergency phone must be in a visible place.

Manufacturing and assembly

The manufacturing process of a round table consists of the following steps:

1. Impregnation of the material with an antiseptic. After that, the wood should dry completely.
2. Treatment of workpieces with a hydrophobic agent. Drying oil is well suited for this.
3. Sawing boards into fragments of the desired length. Lubrication of the grooves with glue, alternately attaching new segments. Fixing the shield made with clamps. To increase the strength, several rails can be screwed on the underside.
4. Table cutting. The contour of the circle or oval of the table is made using a compass or twine with a pencil. Then all the excess is cut off.
5. Attaching the legs to the center of the shield with metal corners.
6. Production of jumpers in the amount of 8 pieces. Sawing is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees.
7. Assembly of a cross with sides equal to the diameter of the tabletop.
8. Attaching the cross to the leg with steel corners.
9. Screwing jumpers to the bottom of the tabletop, cross.

At this stage, the assembly is completed. You can proceed to the final processing of the finished product. If desired, the table is decorated according to your own taste.

Cut boards to desired length

Lubricate the grooves with glue, alternately attach new segments

Fix the made shield with clamps

Cut out the countertop

Insert the tabletop into the frame

Trim the frame

Cut jumpers

Assemble crosses

Attach cross to leg

Screw jumpers

Finishing

Finishing includes the following steps:

1. Made parts are processed by a grinding machine. The final polishing is carried out with a zero sandpaper. The quality of work is checked visually and tactilely. The finished surface should be smooth, without protruding parts.
2. Putty. During or before processing, holes, chips and cracks may form on the table top. They need to be sealed with a special wood putty, silicone or putty.
3. The product is dust free. Depending on the chosen design, the wood is stained or fired with a blowtorch.
4. The table is finished with paint or varnish. To achieve an even, durable layer, apply 2-3 layers.
5. End tape is attached. For fixing, use an adhesive that is resistant to temperature and humidity changes.

In conclusion, additional elements are installed - shelves, sills, forged ornaments.

Clean the product, cover with stain

Paint the product

Lacquer

Finished table

creative ideas

To give housing more originality and attractiveness, non-standard approaches to the manufacture of furniture are used. You can use one of the following ideas:

1. Bottoms made of boards from giant decommissioned barrels. The existing inscriptions only emphasize the interesting history of the product. The lower edges of the tables can be equipped with thresholds made of iron staples or chopped wood.
2. Saw cut trunks of large diameter. Their edges may be rounded or remain with the bark. A wild tree looks very good in gazebos, on verandas and in the hallways of country houses.
3. Coils from the power cable. Products are comfortable, large, stable. They just need finishing touches. Service inscriptions add originality.
4. Solid wood carved. The holes made are filled with epoxy. It looks very unusual.

The round table helps to create an atmosphere of intimacy in the house. And if it is made by hand, it will surely become a favorite of all family members. Exclusive design will help to give the room individuality and unique style.

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A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the seater's hips.

Country style table

This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “into the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two adds to the functionality of the table, as the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Studded joints provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsarg belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you need to be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.

An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of ​​​​support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-column supports is increased resistance to warping. Although the area of ​​support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the tabletop, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of attaching folding table parts are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the legs and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary family table can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.

Design options

The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of ​​support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with sliding sections. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.

Two-leg table with sliding
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. Good uses for this include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here) and other special purpose tables and tables. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here as well.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which is applied to a relatively long utility table with hinged covers. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large spread out table, filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.

Design options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book - the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the tsarga-leg-leg. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has many structural elements reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop

This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our "basic" table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.

We continue to equip the summer cottage. Today we’ll talk about how and with what to fill the dining area or recreation area. It is difficult to imagine a cozy gazebo or a shady canopy without a table and comfortable benches or chairs.

Today, garden furniture manufacturers offer a huge variety of tables: large and small, wooden, forged, wicker or plastic.

Of course, you can buy a finished product, but many people prefer to make garden furniture with their own hands.

About how and from what material to make a table, how to decorate the countertop will be discussed in this article.

Design and construction depend on where the product will be installed. The table can be placed in a country house, on a semi-open space (terrace or gazebo), or on an open-air street, for example, on a lawn under a tree.

Classification of structures depending on the form:

• rectangular or square - the most common shape, easy to manufacture;
• round or oval - accommodates a large number of people;
• triangular, with a wavy edge, hexagonal, etc. - impractical and difficult to manufacture shapes.

If guests are gathering at the dacha, a table that is elongated in length is convenient. It can be placed against the wall and moved away for the duration of the reception, increasing the number of seats. The rest of the time it is used for economic purposes, without cluttering up the area.

The table can be folding and ordinary. Folding is more difficult to make. For summer cottages, standard non-folding products are usually made with a quadrangular or rounded tabletop on four legs.

In summer cottages, you can see furniture of the most unusual design, such as this low wide table in the photo, with wheels instead of legs, knocked together from massive boards taken from an old wooden pallet.

It can be placed in a country house or on a lawn.

The product can have the most primitive outlines, like this set in the photo, made from partially processed logs.

It is not difficult to make this kit even for a novice master - you will need the very minimum of tools and skills.

Paint and varnish materials and glue

Wood must be protected from decay by soaking it twice with a water-polymer emulsion with an interval of 3-5 days. If the parts are glued together, you will need BF-2 wood glue or building PVC.

Bonding technology:

1. Apply glue to both parts of the product.
2. Dry a little.
3. Connect details.
4. Keep loaded for 3 days.

If you plan to treat the tree with stain, varnish or paint, the composition must be applied before assembly.

When choosing a paintwork material, they proceed from where the product will be located - outdoors or indoors. Outdoor garden furniture must be treated with outdoor paint: alkyd, nitrocellulose, oil. Furniture for the room is covered with more environmentally friendly compositions: acrylic paints, varnish.

Compatibility of compositions:

• alkyd varnish + oil paint;
• acrylic lacquer + acrylic paint.

The order of mixing varnish and paint:

1. Add a small amount of varnish to the paint container and mix thoroughly.
2. Pour the resulting mixture into the rest of the varnish and stir.

If the task is to preserve and highlight the texture of the wood, and at the same time leave the countertop as environmentally friendly as possible, any water-based varnish will do. It does not smell, is not hazardous to health. On furniture covered with such a composition, you can put food without the risk of poisoning.

To make the protective film stronger, the composition is applied in 2-3 layers. The first is slightly diluted with water and used as a primer. It will soak into the wood. The last layers will create a decorative film.

The hardest varnish is parquet and yacht.

Any varnish can break if the product is used outdoors. Insufficiently elastic lacquer film cracks when temperature and air humidity change. Therefore, many experts recommend treating country furniture not with varnish, but with oil or oil wax. These compositions are hydrophobic, unlike varnish, they do not form a film that can crack, they are repairable.

The ideal option for coating wooden country furniture is wax and oil. The disadvantage of this finish is the high cost.

But, having spent about 2000 r. for a jar of composition, the buyer receives in return:

• a coating that can highlight the natural texture of wood;
• maximum wood protection;
• beautiful colour;
• 100% environmentally friendly.

The oil is applied in two layers.

In the photo, wood treated with oil wax:

What tools will be needed?

For work, you need the simplest set of tools.

Hand Tool Set:

• a hammer;
• wrench;
• construction ruler-corner;
• measuring tape and pencil;
• brush;
• saw.

From the power tool you will need:

• drill with a set of drills;
• manual electric milling machine for cutting at the ends of parts of fastening elements (grooves, ridges).

Table top - options

The surface of the table can be made in two ways:

• prefabricated (from several boards);
• monolithic.

The first way is to make large tables with long and wide tabletops, the dimensions of which allow you to receive many guests at once.

There are several ways to join boards for countertops. In some cases, you can not do without ordinary nails.

Schemes of options for docking boards for countertops:

To get a beautiful and even countertop, nails need to be driven in correctly:

• when working with solid wood, nails are driven into passages pre-drilled with a drill with a diameter smaller than that of fasteners;
• when punching through the boards, the fasteners should be 30% longer than the thickness of the lumber;
• the end of the nail is bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the fibers of the wood material, otherwise the board will crack;
• so that the attachment point is as reliable as possible, the fasteners are driven in a little obliquely;
• when making a key with reinforcement, the nails are driven in in a checkerboard pattern.

For the manufacture of a monolithic carpentry shield, you will need a jointer - a special long planer for finishing the surface.

An elementary way to assemble a monolithic surface is to glue several boards and strengthen the fastening using the tenon-groove method. You can immediately buy a tongue-and-groove board, assemble the countertop and fasten it additionally from below with a transverse beam screwed on with self-tapping screws. This is how massive, durable and rough-looking tables are built, which fit perfectly into country interiors.

A monolithic countertop must have a protective edge around the entire perimeter. It is made from 4 bars made from the hardest wood, such as birch. It is better not to use oak, as its wood is too heavy.

Cover installation:

• along the edges of the tabletop, a one-sided comb is made with a manual milling cutter or a circular saw;
• grooves are made in the beam corresponding to the thickness and shape of the ridge;
• glue the bars;
• tighten the countertop with a vise until the adhesive composition has completely hardened;
• to strengthen the fastening, they tighten the bar and the countertop with self-tapping screws, screwing them obliquely and drowning the hats in the wood (subsequently, the fasteners can be covered with wood putty).

Attaching the cover on the photo:

In the photo, the installation of underframe screeds:

Making a wooden round table with your own hands:

1. Buy lumber 250 mm wide of any length.
2. Fold the boards end to end and draw a circle of the desired diameter.
3. Cut with a jigsaw along the marked line.
4. Fasten the lumber together in the same way as in the case of a rectangular countertop.

To get a perfectly even edge, you will have to make a special device for a manual router out of plywood, which works like a compass.

The photo shows a round table, which is quite capable of being made by a novice master with his own hands:

Similarly, oval countertops are assembled.

The easiest way is to make a round table from a saw cut of a thick tree. Having covered the round with varnish, you can get the original product without excessive effort, as in the photo:

Table with straight legs

The legs are not attached directly to the tabletop, but to the support frame. This part is assembled from bars connected by metal corners. The frame is glued to the back of the tabletop, retreating from the edges of at least 2 cm.

It is better to additionally fix the part to the countertop from the inside with self-tapping screws.

The legs are cut from a bar of the required length.

Fixing the legs is the most difficult and responsible work in the manufacture of tables. The reliability of the entire structure depends on it.

Leg making:

1. Accurately measure and saw off the parts of the desired length with a saw.
2. Put them together and check the length - it should be the same.
3. Glue the legs to the corners of the base frame where the parts meet each other (use a vise to hold it while the glue dries).
4. Additionally, secure the legs with self-tapping screws.

Master class on video:

X-shaped legs consist of three elements: two crossed slats and an upper horizontal support on which the tabletop will be mounted.

Manufacturing:

At all stages of work, glue and metal fasteners are used to fasten parts.

An example of a drawing of a table with x-shaped legs with dimensions:

Possible options

Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and, with the right approach, will organically fit into any room. Manufacturers of wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:

• with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
• corner - help save interior space;
• transformers - multifunctional structures;
• folding and sliding - allow you to accommodate a large number of guests;
• "Books" - a common modification of a folding table.

It is noteworthy, but all of the listed options for tables can be made in artisanal conditions, literally from improvised materials.

Regardless of the design and shape, a homemade wooden table must meet two requirements. Firstly, to match the interior of the room, if you do not follow this rule, even a beautifully designed carved tabletop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.

Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.

Preparatory stage

Even a simple rectangular table with four legs cannot be made without some preparation. Let's figure out what the home master needs in the production process.

This is a prerequisite that will allow you to visualize the future table, determine the size and amount of material. Ready-made drawings can be searched on the Internet: many craftsmen willingly share the results of their work with Web users, describing in detail each stage of production.

If we are talking about a unique table design that you plan to create according to your own project, you cannot do without a drawing. You can draw a future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. It is recommended to pay special attention to the following points:

• external dimensions (length, width, height);
• fixing the legs to the tabletop. Round models usually have one support post located in the center, rectangular designs require 1 support at each corner;
• mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).

It is necessary to carefully consider how all the details of the table will be assembled together, what additional processing of the wood will be required before assembly or after it.

Material

It is no secret that wood of different species has different properties and not the entire array is suitable for artisanal processing. Depending on the species, all wood can be divided into 3 groups.

Soft. This includes almost all conifers (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many hardwoods (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). Such material is easy to process, but the table made will require additional protective coating, especially if it is supposed to be used outdoors. Coniferous wood is dependent on external factors, prone to deformation and cracking. An exception, perhaps, is larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for the manufacture of tables.

Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Such a bar, even without impregnation, is resistant to a humid environment and exposure to direct sunlight, but in the process of processing one cannot do without a power tool.

Heavy duty. This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is possible only in the workshops of industrial enterprises.

Tool

The simplest rough board table can be assembled with your own hands with just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for a more accurate execution, additional tools will be required:

• electric jigsaw;
• grinder;
• Screwdriver Set;
• drill with a set of drills of various diameters;
• roulette;
• simple pencil;
• square.

In addition, wood is recommended to be pre-treated with special antiseptics, which will make the finished product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sidewalls, then you will need special cutters. A great help to the master will be a turning or milling machine for wood, but not everyone will find such tools.

Homemade tables for a summer residence

The simplest and most practical option for arranging a summer cottage is a table made of wooden pallets. Unnecessary, at first glance, pallets are ready-made raw materials that require little to no additional processing, but offer several options for use. For example, from 2 pallets you can make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelving unit or for small friendly gatherings.

Such a design is made elementarily. One pallet is attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. Installation height is selected individually. The working part - the table top - is attached to the fixed base. The elements are articulated with each other by two chains that will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 loops are placed at the junctions of the pallets; in addition, a locking mechanism can be installed, for example, a hook that will hold such a table in the closed position.

A more complex option is a pallet coffee table that will look organic on a veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are carefully disassembled into their component parts, polished, painted. After that, the boards are knocked together into a rectangular tabletop, fixed around the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. This design is made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening tea parties and family holidays.

Using leftover building materials

Almost on any personal plot there are boards left after the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating a simple rectangular table that can be placed on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining or utility table.

Here you need to follow the following instructions:

assemble the frame

To do this, you need 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To save the geometry, we use a square. At the junctions, you can put iron corners, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;

fasten the legs

For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length is chosen arbitrarily: 80-100 cm. Support posts are installed on the inside of the frame, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws;

stiffening rib

Approximately in the middle of the legs, an additional crossbar made of wood is nailed. A cross member is installed on both sides, making the structure more durable and stable. In addition, these crossbars can later be used to install a shelf where you can place dishes or other little things necessary in the household;

countertop

The remaining boards go here, which are best placed across the frame. The material is sawn with a hacksaw along the width of the table, attached to the frame with finishing nails.

At the final stage, all surfaces are treated with a grinder, primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in this case, the tree will last much longer. And if you walk along the boards with a brush for brushing and apply a stain on top, you get an antique table.

Table with benches

This option is great for a garden, a wooden structure is installed permanently, depending on the chosen size, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. A garden table and benches are made of boards separately, then the elements are fastened together with a threaded connection: steel studs.

The manufacturing process begins with benches. To do this, the boards are sawn to size, according to the drawn up drawings. To assemble the bench, you will need:

• 3 long boards that will go on the seat;
• 4 short pieces, cut at the edges at an angle of 45 ° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
• 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
• 1 board is shorter by 25-30 cm of the length of the seat - a stiffener.

Please note that all of the listed elements are duplicated, since there are supposed to be 2 benches for such a table.

Shops are assembled according to this scheme. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short crossbars. Legs are installed, which are clamped by the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, are pulled together with pins.

Seat boards are nailed on top of the frame. It is not necessary to put them close, it is better to leave small gaps.

The finished seats are interconnected by four boards 160-180 cm long. The fastening is carried out at the bottom of the legs in such a way that the support posts are clamped by the boards on both sides.

After preparing the base, a table is assembled. The tabletop and areas for mounting the support posts are made according to the principle similar to benches. The legs themselves are made cruciform, fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches. The result is a handy DIY wood kitchen table that can be used for family reunions.

Round tables

Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table with your own hands from wood is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if old trees are being felled in the courtyard of a multi-storey building or next to a personal plot, you can get an original round tabletop without any extra effort. For this, a saw cut of a tree made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable. Such a round shape 5-7 centimeters thick is varnished and can become a key table installed in the hallway.

If you are unlucky with fallen trees, you can create a round-shaped countertop on your own. This will require 4 boards of the following sizes:

• length - 2000 mm;
• width - 250 mm;
• thickness - 40 mm.

The boards are tightly connected to each other (not fastened), a circle of the desired diameter is drawn on the surface. After that, the boards are cut with an electric jigsaw exactly along the intended line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs from the bars. The shape is selected depending on the number of legs. If 3 support posts are supposed, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The tabletop is installed with the help of corners, after assembly the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, then it can be installed in the apartment in the kitchen or in the living room.

An oval table is assembled according to a similar principle. The only difference is that on the interconnected boards, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-ovals along the ends. Boards are cut with a jigsaw along the line. The frame is also made of bars, but has a strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be located 10-20 cm from the edge of the countertop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, for the manufacture of carved supports, certain knowledge will be required, so it is better to order such elements in furniture production.

Computer desk

If we are talking about a factory product, a computer desk seems to be a rather complex design. It has a pull-out keyboard shelf, storage boxes for discs and other items that require experience to make. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of parts necessary for working at a computer.

Here you can try something like this:

• steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle made of corrugated pipe with 4 support posts. On the one hand, a frame is immediately made under the shelf where the system unit will stand, and two similar elements from the other end;
• the countertop is made from cut-to-size boards or a fiberboard sheet;
• shelves are made of a material similar to the countertop.

All elements are interconnected by a threaded connection or a corner. Of course, such a design is inferior to factory counterparts in terms of external design, but it is many times cheaper and does its job quite well.

Wooden outdoor table

Undoubtedly, the most malleable and environmentally friendly material is wood. A wooden table can be made round, square, rectangular or irregular in shape, it all depends on the size of the gazebo or the number of seats. As a tabletop leg, you can use a regular stump.

The shape and appearance of the table largely depend on the style of your country house and exterior. A log house can be supplemented with furniture made from logs and boards. The main tool for processing parts is a grinder, since the surfaces of the tabletop and benches must be smooth, without nicks.

The tabletop can be made from slats or a narrow board, strung on metal rods, or by connecting them with short slats.

A table made of wooden saw cuts looks interesting, especially if there are paths from the same elements on the site.

There are several ways to make such a table:

• connect the saw cuts to each other with brackets or tongue and groove, forming a flat surface;
• fix the cuts on some kind of base (in this case, the parts must be of the same thickness to form a flat surface). The product must be sanded and varnished. If desired, the gaps between the cuts are filled with epoxy resin, after which the surface has dried, the surface is polished again and coated with a protective compound.

A garden table made of wood with benches, made of a single design, looks great both in the gazebo and in the open area.

It's easy to make. Use the diagram below to make your own drawing and calculate materials.

When drawing up a drawing, consider some generally accepted standards:

• bench seat height from ground level - 400-500 mm;
• seat width - 300-400 mm;
• tabletop height from floor level - 700-750 mm;
• tabletop width - 580-900 mm.

The length of the table and benches is individual. The figure shows an example of the manufacture of a table with benches located on two long sides of the tabletop. Similarly, you can make a design with benches on four sides.

And here is a variant of a small round table with stationary benches-stools for four seats. It is easy to move it to the place you need at the moment: to an open area, under a canopy or in a house.

If you wish, you can purchase or make your own folding garden furniture, which can be easily installed in any part of the garden or in the house.

Such furniture will last longer, as it will not be constantly exposed to precipitation. The weight of such products is small, they can be easily and quickly transferred to a permanent storage place in a house or barn, where they do not take up much space.

In order for the product to serve for a long time, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic and coated with varnish, wax or paint. To give the wood the desired shade, use a stain or a special impregnation with pigment.

We select wood

So, as noted above, wood is the most suitable material for the manufacture of furniture for the bath. It is incapable of heating up as much as metal, with appropriate processing it does not deteriorate from steam, like chipboard, does not emit harmful substances from hot air, like plastic, and also creates a special atmosphere of coziness and comfort.

The main requirement for the wood that the master is going to use in order to make a table with his own hands: it should not be resinous.

Firstly, the heat will make the resin stand out, and secondly, such a tree has a rich specific smell, which not everyone likes. Therefore, conifers are not used, especially when it comes to making a table for a steam room.

Wood must meet the following requirements:

• low heat conductivity;
• high density;
• ease of processing;
• lack of flaws (knots, wormholes, rot).

In addition, the masters recommend choosing the material in such a way that it looks nice, has a beautiful texture and color. The latter is selected taking into account the fact that the tree must be treated with stain, varnish or other special impregnations. They will protect the material from the effects of water and steam.

Of the types common in our area, tables for use in the bath are most often made from the following breeds:

• poplar;
• Linden;
• aspen;
• alder.

Let's talk a little about each of the breeds. Oak is a strong and reliable material, has a high density. But it can play a disservice during assembly: dried wood sometimes cracks when screws are screwed in. Therefore, during assembly, it is better to drill holes for fasteners. Linden is softer, has a beautiful structure and looks good in the interior of the bath.

Poplar has a beautiful wood, well processed, like aspen. The latter is famous for its resistance to various kinds of bark beetles and mold. And this breed is also famous for the absence of knots and other small inclusions characteristic of other breeds.

Alder has a similar structure, it is easily processed. Due to the structure of its wood, alder can be "disguised" as more expensive species.

Making a table

Having stopped his choice on a suitable material and presenting the shape of the future table, the master should draw up a drawing. The standard sizes for a table for six people are as follows:

• height (legs and tabletop) - 740 millimeters;
• length - 1400 millimeters;
• width - 800 millimeters.

Dimensions may vary, the master can make his own calculations based on individual needs.

To work, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• ruler;
• corner;
• level;
• marker or pencil;
• hacksaw;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• Grinder.

In addition, nails or screws will be needed.

At the first stage, boards and bars are made for the table top, legs and table joints. Having cut out the parts of the desired size from wood, they are ground so that there are no gaps and cracks between the boards during assembly.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the structure, wooden parts are coated with protective compounds, insect and mold impregnations. But varnishing bath tables is not recommended, especially if they are located in the steam room itself or next to it. A layer of varnish to emphasize the texture of the material can only be applied if the table will stand in a rest room where there is no high temperature and humidity.

When assembling the structure, both self-tapping screws and furniture bolts can be used for its fastening. They look beautiful, giving the homemade table a “signature” look.

In conclusion, we note that the furniture must match the interior and design of the room. Only then will a commonality of all components be created and the bath will look like a single whole. Therefore, the shape of the table, its dimensions and color are selected by each master individually, taking into account the general style.

Now that our readers know how to make a wooden bath table, this task will not seem overwhelming to them. And after a short time, the owner of the bathhouse will receive guests at a beautiful table created by his own hands.

Material selection

Let's start with the fact that the vast majority of craftsmen will make a wooden sauna table. And what else to put in a wooden or wood-lined bathhouse? Who even thinks of doing high-tech on the site? So the question of the material can be safely reformulated into the question of the type of wood.

When it comes to lounge furniture, we have no (!) restrictions on the choice of wood.

ATTENTION! Humidity in the bath when taking procedures is always increased in any of the rooms.

But high humidity is not a reason to give up some preferences, you just need to take care of protecting the surface of the tree.

So, you can consider breeds by other qualities. Particularly in terms of hardness. By this criterion, we select the following classes for an example:

Everyone also knows about the division of species into coniferous and deciduous, which speaks primarily of the content of resins and, at times, the number of knots (conifers often have more of them).

You can choose the right wood by color, texture, and cut direction, but this is aesthetics (although the cut direction also affects the physical and mechanical properties). There are sound and non-core species, that is, either there is or there is no color difference between the inner (core) and outer (sapwood) parts of the wood. The core with the core is usually darker than the outer one.

IMPORTANT! It's good if you have a moisture meter with you when you buy wood. Standard humidity should be 12-18%.

Remember that wood that is too wet can become unusable when dried, because warping is almost irreversible.

So, if you decide to make a table in a wooden bath with your own hands, then you need to decide on the tools (if it is manual, then softer rocks may be preferable, although it will be easier to accidentally damage them in the future), with what the sellers offer in your area, with a budget (the cheapest species are aspen, pine, spruce, linden). In general, any tree is suitable, and then - according to the circumstances.

Design choice

Material and design can be selected in parallel, although one does not depend on the other in any way. The shape of the table can be any, but still the number of basic options is limited:

• square;
• rectangular;
• round;
• oval;
• polyhedron.

This is about the shape of the tabletop. In addition, it can be retractable.

The number of legs at the table can vary:

• one;
• four.

As for three legs - a variant, of course, rare, but possible. If the number of legs is less than three, then their stability will directly depend on the crossbars on the floor on which these legs are installed. For a one-legged one, this will be a cross, for a two-legged one, a single perpendicular on each leg.

In addition to the tabletop and legs, there may be other structural details. These include the transverse beam, which connects the legs, if there are two of them at the table, as well as strips that mask the junctions of the legs with the frame, which at the same time give rigidity to the structure.

Yes, and it would also be worth mentioning the folding tables, which can be used not only in the rest room, but also in other rooms. Such a table is mounted on the wall, when folded it takes up very little space, and when unfolded it is no worse than a stationary table.

BY THE WAY! Those who love the original may remember hanging tables, like on a ship.

Sizes that are comfortable for a person

This moment cannot be bypassed in any way: there is a certain dependence between the size of the table and how many people can comfortably (or without it) fit behind it. Therefore, each owner of a bathhouse should estimate in advance how many people will most likely gather at the table in the relaxation room or on the veranda at the same time.

The second important factor in choosing the size (and, possibly, the shape) will be the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. After all, you need not just to place a table, but to make sure that the person sits down and gets up from the table freely, so that there is a place for passage, etc. To do this, you need to add a few more parameters to the table dimensions - the width and depth of the seat, the width of one person's seat at the table, and also the minimum width of the passage.

For our part, we will give the standards of ergonomics, which is the science of how to adapt things to the human anatomy.

REMEMBER! To make it comfortable to sit at the table, a person needs 70 cm of space. This is called seat depth (see picture). Add these 70 cm to the dimensions of the table from all sides - you get a spot that you allocate for this area. The minimum passage behind the seated person, if necessary, must be at least half a meter.

Now the dimensions of the countertops themselves (according to the estimated capacity):

A person is comfortable at the table if he is provided with at least 60 cm of table space in width. It's minimum.

A double table of square or round shape must be 60 cm in side or in diameter. However, the "spot" of the zone, together with the chairs, is calculated as 120 by 210 for a square and 120 by 200 for a circle.

A triple table is possible only for a round shape, but the dimensions increase: the table diameter is 80 cm, the spots are 220 cm.

Quadruple seating can be either cruciform or parallel. The side of the square is 85 cm, the side of the spot is 225 cm. The diameter of the circle is 90, the spots are 230 cm. The rectangle is 85 by 125 cm, the spot is 185x225 cm.

Five-seater - circle 100 cm, spot 240; rectangle, measuring 135 by 85 cm, spot - 235 by 225 cm.

Six-seater - three types. Circle: diameter 120, spot 260, rectangle parallel seating - 85x175, spot - 235x225 cm, around the perimeter - 85x145 cm, spot - 285x225 cm.

We will probably stop at eight-seaters. Circle - 140 cm in diameter, spot 2.8 meters. Rectangle: parallel seating - 80 x 250 cm, spot 220x285 cm along the perimeter - 85 x 195 cm, spot 225x285 cm.

Also worth mentioning is the design called the "corner". It looks cozy and fills the space well. The module of the proposed scheme is a seat measuring 55x55 cm. A corner measuring 220 by 165 cm is composed of them. The table is also square with a square side of 85 cm. Single seats in front of the table are of the same dimensions as the module.

In principle, the schemes that we have given above can already be a source of inspiration when creating a table.

Next, we present several drawings that we found in the vastness of the worldwide computer network. We do not claim authorship and do not know their authors, therefore we cannot provide links to primary sources (see appeal to copyright holders).

Let's go through the options already mentioned above. Let's start with a one-legged table made in the form of a polyhedron. It rests on a cross, and for greater strength (and, in part, more decorativeness), the connections of the leg with the cross and the tabletop are reinforced with braces. Parts are fastened with glue and self-tapping screws.

The table on two legs also looks very attractive in the rest room. In addition, it is not difficult to manufacture. As can be seen from the drawing, the cross beam is inserted into the holes made for it in the legs and fixed with pins.

Three-legged tables are not used for feasts. Therefore, we will immediately move on to the "classic" - a table with four legs.

As you can see, the table is very simple, without frills, but correct in design and suitable for manufacturing even for beginners.

Here we will take it as the basis of our instructions.

How to do: instruction

So the model is quite simple. She doesn't even need an expensive tool.

Instruments

• any saw - hand, miter, circular, even a jigsaw;
• (possibly) an electric drill with drills for the diameter of the dowels;
• any grinder - manual, grinder, ordinary electric.

ATTENTION! It is assumed that you purchased high-quality material, and you do not have to joint the boards, bringing them to the same dimensions.

Material

• boards 30x100, 20x100 mm;
• beam 60 mm section;
• glue;
• self-tapping screws;
• (possibly) dowels.

Actions

First you need to file the parts of the desired size in accordance with the drawing. These will be:

• 7 boards 30x100 mm, 120 cm long;
• 2 boards 20x100, 100 cm long;
• 2 boards 20x100, 62 cm long;
• 2 boards 30x100, 58 cm long;
• 4 bars 60 mm in cross section, 67 cm long.

In details of 58 cm, grooves are cut at both ends for the legs of the table - 60x60 mm. From future legs, a chamfer is removed from one (only one!) Of the corners.

The surface of all parts is pre-treated by grinding.

ADVICE! A second sanding can be done after the table surface has been varnished for the first time.

Now such an important point: the fastening of parts is variable. They can be put on self-tapping screws, on screws, on dowels with glue. In addition, the methods can be combined.

Since we do not provide for turning any of the usual carpentry joints of parts, we decided that in some cases, dowels can be used to improve the reliability of fastening. An alternative way would be to mount with a metal corner. But first things first.

So, you have processed all the blanks. We start assembly.

First of all, the tabletop boards are laid on a flat surface and fixed. Then, according to the drawing, 58 cm boards are placed on them, which fasten the countertop with self-tapping screws. They are screwed in from below, and along the length they should go into the tabletop board by about half its thickness. That is, the length of the screw or self-tapping screw is 2 + 1.5 = 3.5 cm.

The next step is to attach the legs to the grooves in the crossbars we just screwed on. We recommend gluing the connection, and then also fixing it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in perpendicularly, fastening the leg to both sides of the groove.

To increase the rigidity and strength of the structure, you also need to make side ribs. Please note that the side ribs on the short sides have a place to fasten even without the participation of the countertop - there is a bar along the entire length, and the side ribs along the long side are fixed only 10 cm from each end.

Therefore, we offer two options: either connect them to the table top with dowels, or a metal corner screwed on the inside of the rib.

If dowels are chosen, then three on each of the two long sides are sufficient. Under the dowels with an electric drill, holes are drilled half the thickness of the board. The connection is put on glue.

IMPORTANT! Why are dowels better than a corner? The fact is that any wood joints tend to “breathe”, which loosens any metal fasteners over time (therefore, they should be tightened sometimes), and the wooden dowel moves with the tree.

You can put one corner in the middle or several along the entire length - this is optional.

This table is ready.

Option 1. A round dining table that is easy to make even for a beginner

Materials:

For a tabletop: a square of birch plywood or laminated chipboard 1500x1500 mm. For a binder ring: a square with a side of 1280 mm of the same material. For table legs, 4 bars of 120x50x750 mm are needed. and 2 strips measuring 1110x120x25 from the material of the countertop.

First, we cut out the countertop, the underframe ring, the planks. Moreover, the edges must be carefully sanded. The next step is to make a base for a round table:

In the slats, we cut out grooves for a cruciform connection (Fig. 2). We connect the planks groove into the groove. With the help of confirmations, we connect the legs with the strips, as shown in Fig. 3. We attach the finished pairs of legs to the connecting ring, also using confirmations (in Fig. 1, 2). We attach the table top to the underframe using self-tapping screws , 35-40 mm long.

We carefully grind all the surfaces of the table and paint it in the desired color - if the table is not made of chipboard. We close the heads of confirmations with plugs to match the color of the table.

Everything, the process is completed - you can enjoy the well-deserved comfort at the round dining table!

If the size of your kitchen does not allow even a small round table to be placed there, and your dream is to dine at just such a table, do not be discouraged. Making your own folding round table is almost as easy: it will require a little more material and a few additional fasteners.

Folding round table - one base, several options

A folding round table, made according to the principle of a book table, is the best option for a medium-sized kitchen.

Having folded one semicircular wing, it can be placed along the wall, and if necessary, you can move it to the center of the room and sit behind it with the whole large company.

Knowing the principles of connecting wooden parts, from diagram No. 4 above, you can easily understand the entire design of a folding round table. All dimensions are affixed - it is only necessary to decipher some designations.

1 and 2 - table top, and part 1 is static, and 2 is movable;

3 - legs of a round folding table attached to the bars of the crossbeams 4.5 and 6 with the help of metal furniture corners (end, flat - 2 for each leg);

Moreover, the crossbar 5 cuts into the crossbar 4 exactly in the middle, and the crossbar 6, together with the leg, serves as a support for the folding part of the round table and moves on the simplest hinge, arranged from a conventional bolt (the turning point is marked with a cross).

7 - removable decorative strip, fastened with wooden dowels to the end part of the folding "wing".

8 - stopper of the movable leg.

It remains to be added that the procedure for making a table remains the same: cutting, fitting parts, assembly, finishing. Your dream came true with your own hands, congratulations!

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible over time to take up exclusive tables, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of tinting and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

The first steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

table top

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is subject to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class