OSB under a flexible tile. How to choose OSB for roofing. Features of the OSB board and the main stages of wall cladding

The main scope of OSB boards is the arrangement of the structural elements of the building: roof, floor, walls. At the same time, the installation of OSB slabs has some features, the knowledge of which will help to make the sheathing of high quality and durable. Before you start installation, you need to decide on the choice of hardware, which will play a major role in fixing the OSB.
Content:

Used nails and screws

There are many types of nails that are used depending on the location of the plate and its weight:

• finishing: used where camouflage is desirable and the likelihood of pulling out is minimized. Often used in conjunction with glue.
• round without a hat: needed when laying floors, when installing frame structures and when fixing plates with a tongue and groove connection
• with a hat: used where there is no need for disguise;

There are also special nails that have an annular or screw type thread. Such hardware holds the nailed plate better, but is difficult to pull out.

It is best to fasten the panels with screws designed for working with wood - the reliability of fastening increases dramatically. This allows the use of a much smaller number of screws when compared with the number of nails. If necessary, the screw can be easily unscrewed by switching the screwdriver to reverse.

Roof finish

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to make sure that the lathing or rafter legs are parallel. The surface must be leveled, and failure to comply with this requirement leads to the impossibility of a reliable tongue-and-groove connection.

If the slabs prepared for installation have been exposed to rain, they must be dried before laying.

Before installation, make sure that the attic space has adequate ventilation (the total area of ​​the ventilation holes must be at least 1/150 of the total horizontal area).

The largest part of the operating load should lie on the long axis of the slab. The articulation of the short ends must be carried out on roof supports. The long sides are joined on auxiliary supports, the connection method is tongue-and-groove or H-brackets.

If the edges of the plates are even (i.e., there is no tongue and groove), then a dilatation gap of 3 millimeters should be left. This will enable the material to change dimensions with temperature changes without compromising the quality of the coating.

The slab must rest on at least 2 supports (on which the connection must fall). The dependence of the distance between the elements of the crate on the thickness of the OSB is shown below (for roofs with a slope of no more than 14 degrees):

• 1m: plate thickness from 18 mm;
• 0.8 meters: thickness from 15 mm;
• 0.6 meters: thickness from 12 mm.

When laying the slab next to the chimney, it is necessary to comply with the norms established by SNiP. High-quality fastening of the osb slab to the rafters is possible using ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long, or spiral nails 5.1 cm long. The distance to the edge of the slab cannot be less than 10 mm.

Installation of OSB on walls

Installation can go in two ways: in a horizontal position or vertical.

When bypassing window and door openings, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 3 mm.

With a distance between the wall supports of 40-60 cm, it is recommended that the walls be sheathed with OSB slabs 1.2 cm thick. If thermal insulation is necessary, then it should be arranged before the plates are fixed. As a heat-insulating material, preference should be given to mineral wool.

To fix the plates, two-inch spiral nails (51 mm) or ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long are used. They must be driven every 30 cm into intermediate supports. At the joints of the plates, the nails are driven in every 15 cm. From the edge, the nails should be hammered in increments of 10 cm (no closer than 1 cm from the edge).

Dilatation gaps must also be left:

• between the top edge of the slab and the crown beam: 1 cm;
• between the lower edge of the slab and the foundation wall: 1cm;
• between plates that do not have a groove-ridge connection: 0.3 cm.

Floor laying

Before laying the material, it is necessary to make waterproofing (if the floor is done on the first floor).

OSB boards should be connected on logs. If there are no grooves and ridges, maintain the same gap of 3 millimeters. If a floating floor is planned, leave a gap of 1.2 cm between the wall and the edge of the slab.

Should be laid perpendicular to the joists. The long edges of the plates must be connected to each other by means of a groove and a ridge, and in their absence, with H-shaped brackets. It is desirable that the connection rest on an auxiliary support. The short sides of the slab must be connected on the logs. The dependence of the thickness of the slab on the distance between the lags is shown below:

• from 1.5 to 1.8 cm: the distance between the lags is not more than 40 cm;
• from 1.8 to 2.2 cm: no more than 50 cm;
• from 2.2 cm: distance - 60 cm.

For fastening, the same types of nails are used, which require OSB wall cladding and roof arrangement. On intermediate supports, nails are driven in increments of 30 cm, at the junction of plates - in increments of 15 cm.

To increase the rigidity of the entire coating, giving it a holistic look, you can glue the plates to the logs. It will also be useful to glue the groove-comb connection.

It is necessary to use only synthetic glue (water-based compositions are ineffective due to the presence of paraffin in the structure of the plate).

OSB finish

After fixing you will need. The most common way is putty. This method allows you to seal all the gaps in the joints to prevent moisture from entering. Plus, a quality job will help prepare the slabs for possible further finishing (for example, varnishing or painting).

To obtain an aesthetically attractive look, it is better to use plates specially polished by the manufacturer. In this case, you will have to spend less time and material on future finishing.

Before carrying out work, you should walk on the plate with a finely notched sandpaper, and then cover the surface with a primer (it should not be water-based). Next, you need to choose how to putty OSB. It is better if the composition you choose is colorless. To do this, use one of the types of putty:

• on a plaster basis;
• acrylic;
• latex.

After completing this stage, you can think about how to finish the walls from OSB. For example, it could be varnishing. The plate should be varnished in 3-4 steps with complete drying of each layer. Lacquering will add shine to the surface and provide reliable protection against moisture penetration.

Another way of finishing is painting. Use paint that does not contain water. After, it can even be laminated or finished with a special film.

Most of the ways to finish the house are available after the wall cladding of OSB boards has been made in compliance with the technologies and recommendations of the manufacturer.

The use of OSB sheets for the manufacture of roof sandwich panels, the arrangement of flat slopes, and in many other cases in the construction of a roof has become very popular. This allows you to build quickly and easily, and the developed technologies using oriented strand boards have long become the standards of modern construction.

What is the purpose of OSB on the roof

There are reasons for the popularity of using OSB sheets (they are OSB and OSB boards) as a roof element:

• Resistance to moisture and temperature extremes;
• Relatively low manufacturing cost compared to expensive plywood;
• The speed of work, provided by a large overlapping area and the correct geometry;
• The ability to quickly complete construction and not overpay contractors for their work;
• The technology developed over the years divides a complex process into simple operations that become feasible for non-professionals to perform;
• The plate creates a monolithic surface - an excellent basis for insulation and the use of a soft roof over it;
• Unlike edged boards, it does not change its geometry when it dries, which is a guarantee against deformations of the roofing surface and the appearance of leaks;
• The use of SIP panels for frame houses;
• Firmly tying the rafters with OSB sheets increases the spacing between heavy load-bearing beams and reduces the overall weight of the roof and the load on the supports.

Oriented strand board is well combined with materials that create a continuous cover on it that does not require the use of hardware. These include all types of soft roofing - soft tiles, hydroisol and roofing material, awning materials, as well as seam coverings.

The fantasy of house builders is not limited to the listed structures. In fact, it can be any type of coating, the main thing is to follow the waterproofing technology and not allow the chipboard to get wet. But, experience shows that with slate, corrugated board, metal tiles, galvanized iron and ondulin, OSB sheets act as a wind support. This means that the hardware must penetrate the OSB layer and be fixed in the rafters, or the crate is stuffed on top and fastened to it. Otherwise, over time, screws and nails loosen, and a sharp gust of wind tears off the cover elements.

Also, OSB board, hemmed below the insulation layer, will create an inclined ceiling surface in the attic. And scraps and waste from construction with its use are used to manufacture T-rafters and load-bearing trusses.

The choice of OSB for the roof (thickness, dimensions, classes)

Only OSB-3 is suitable for use on the roof. In this class of material, price, strength and moisture resistance are balanced. It complies with the European standard EN-300 and the American R1 and R2.

The main thing you should pay attention to when buying is the presence of markings on all sheets in a pack, so that unscrupulous manufacturers would not slip the second class instead of the third (they cannot be distinguished in appearance). Instead of inscriptions in Russian, there may be Latin stamps, then you should look for the text: “Exterior Tire Binder” or R1, R2 (roof - roof).

In addition, there are specialized roofing panels OSP-3, which are structurally designed for such purposes. They have a rough surface that does not slip and has good adhesion, as well as tongue-and-groove edges for easy and high-quality installation.

All slabs that go to the manufacture of roof slopes must have a standard design size (1250x2500). Such dimensions are large enough to quickly increase the plane and, as before, are convenient - they make it possible to carry them one by one by one person.

The remaining parameter - the thickness of the sheet, is chosen based on the step between the rafters, according to the table.

However, it should be remembered that it indicates the smallest allowable dimensions for pitched roofs. In practice, roofers do not use 9 mm sheets at all - the technology allows you to start working with 12 mm materials. And indicators for flat roofs should be increased to 18 mm. In our climatic zone, such a need is dictated by additional calculations for the snow load in the winter.

Only then the tabular indicators will be correct if, on the rafters, a transverse step crate is stuffed.

Arrangement of a pitched surface using OSB

There are only two ways to fasten oriented strand boards: directly to the rafters and to an additional crate. Both options are widely used in practice. It cannot be said that one of them is better or worse, but each method is optimal for its specific conditions.

Fastening OSB on the roof directly to the rafters.

This option is used in the presence of powerful OSB sheets, in attic-type houses, when the roof is not insulated.

Advantages:

• a small number of construction operations at height;
• significant savings - no additional wood is required for the crate, no money is spent on insulation and waterproofing;
• fast completion time.

Disadvantages:

• the top floor (attic) in the house remains cold;
• thicker OSB sheets are required;
• if it is decided to use a heater, then it is advisable to use non-combustible polystyrene foam and additional sheathing with OSB sheets from the bottom of the rafters.

Some builders are trying to install on rafters using mineral wool insulation and vapor barrier layers, without ventilation gap. Over time, a similar error leads to damage materials due to destruction due to stagnation of excess moisture.

When attaching OSB sheets to the rafters, the OSB sheets themselves act as a crate.

The procedure for the installation of OSB on the rafters:

1. Previously, rafter beams and sheathing sheets are treated with an antiseptic to protect against fungus, mold and woodworm insects.

2. Installation is carried out in dry weather, with the prospect of covering the wood with a roof before the rains. If precipitation is planned, and the work is still unfinished, then a protective awning will be needed.

3. Security is thought through - temporary shelves are arranged for moving, safety cables are fixed for people and fixing belts for the tool.

4. Fastening is best done with nails with a ruff notch, 70-100 mm in size (depending on the thickness of the material). The use of nails speeds up the process and makes the connection more durable.

5. The lower edges of the slopes are sheathed with runs, which are not so afraid of getting wet. They provide a level starting step to prevent slippage of the slabs.

6. With a construction marking thread, transverse control lines are drawn on the supports according to the dimensions of the available sheets. Hemming must be done strictly according to the markup. You can read about how marking is applied with a marking thread (it’s also a chipper thread) in the article:.

7. OSB panels are placed across the supports. Laying starts from the middle of the row, with the expectation that the last panels in the row will be cut off in half. The cut halves are suitable for laying the next row to move the joints in the row to the next support. Cutting and trimming is done on site with a circular saw. The rest of the material with an oblique cut is not thrown away - they are ready-made blanks for the top row.

8. Between adjacent sheets leave a compensation gap of 3 mm.

9. The step of driving hardware: 15 cm - at the joints, 30 cm - on the supporting rafters, 10 cm along the edge of the roof.

10. For reliability, additional clamps are installed between the rows of OSB sheets.

11. If the angle of inclination of the roof is large, temporary support bars are attached with self-tapping screws for walking on them.

12. Lastly, the area of ​​​​the upper ridge is hemmed with the remnants of strips of material.

The technology requires that the step between the rafters be a multiple of the OSB dimensions. And when laying, the sheets should fit together exactly in the middle of the beams with an overlap on the beam of 5 cm (or more).

Visually with the technology of filing on the rafters can be found in this video:

Fastening OSB on the roof to the crate.

This option is used to create ventilation gaps if it is necessary to insulate the roof slope or sheets of oriented strand board (OSB) are too thin and additional support is required.

Advantages:

• the creation of high-quality reliable sandwich panels that will make living on the upper attic floor comfortable;
• savings on the purchase of OSB sheets - now you can apply a thickness of 9 mm;

Disadvantages:

• a large amount of work and consumables;

The procedure for the installation of OSB through the crate:

1. All types of work that are performed in the previous version are also relevant for this method, with the difference that the installation will take place to the crate, in addition, internal technological layers are pre-equipped.

Roofing cake using OSB sheets on the roof

2. Diffusion waterproofing is shot from the underside of the rafters with a construction stapler. Film strips should be fixed horizontally, starting from the top. The joints of the roll strips of the vapor barrier membrane are glued with acrylic tape, with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Similarly, the entire perimeter of the vapor barrier layer is covered with tape, attaching the film to the supporting wooden structures. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the canvas with the right side is turned inward, then the film will effectively block moisture from entering the heat-insulating layer from the room.

3. Mineral wool insulation is cut into pieces that fit tightly between the supporting beams. It should burst between the rafters and not fall through, and the vapor barrier layer under it acts as an additional fixation. In the future, counter rails will be pierced from below, which will create additional support for thermal insulation.

4. On top of the rafters, another layer of a diffusion three-layer membrane (for example, EUROTOR N35, RANKKA, YuTAKOH) is laid, which is turned with the rough side up. It blocks the ingress of external moisture (fog, dew, leaks) and removes excess vapor from the insulation. The overlap of glued joints should be 10-15 cm and go in the correct sequence. To do this, rolls should be rolled horizontally and the strips should be fastened correctly, starting from the bottom. The first lower strip should protrude beyond the contour of the insulation by 15-20 cm down.

5. The bars and boards from which the crate will be made are treated with an antiseptic.

6. On the surface of the vapor barrier membrane, strictly above each rafter, a sealing tape is glued.

7. A counter-lattice of bars with a section of 50x50 mm breaks over the rafters, along the strips of the sealing tape. It will create a ventilation gap of 5 cm to remove moisture that accumulates on the waterproofing layer. For better air circulation, gaps are arranged in the bars, going in a checkerboard pattern.

Counter-lattice with crate.

8. At this stage, you can begin to fasten the OSB sheets, but, for additional reinforcement of the support, it is advisable to break through an inch board as a step crate. The maximum distance between the centers of the boards is assumed to be 45 cm, and if OSB is used 9 mm, then the crate is fixed almost continuous.

9. At the end, an oriented strand board is laid, fixing it with self-tapping screws to boards with a crate.

The video shows the installation of OSB on the crate:

Arrangement of finishing roofing

To form a high-quality, reliable and durable roofing, the surface formed by OSB is most often covered with soft tiles.

Other types of roofing materials are not so reliable or their use is not appropriate in these conditions.

Work order:

1. A drip and drainage system is being thought out and equipped along the edges of the roof. It is carried out with the help of cornice strips and gutters.

2. A waterproofing carpet is laid. At large angles of inclination, over 18 degrees, it is allowed to lay it only in places of inflection: skates, valleys, the lower and gable borders of the roof. Waterproofing rolls have a self-adhesive layer covered with a polyethylene film. For additional fixation, bituminous mastic and nails for roofing sheets are used.

3. The laying is carried out in horizontal stripes from the bottom up, the lower boundary of the laying is the cornice strip (5 cm from the bend), the overlap of the joints between the strips of 10-15 centimeters is smeared with mastic. Particular attention is paid to skates, valleys, pipe outlets and gables.

4. Roof markings are made with a waterproofing carpet laid. This is done with a marking thread. The resulting lines will serve as a guide for laying shingles.

5. Soft tiles are laid on bituminous glue with additional fastening on nails along the upper border of each element. The upper element of the tile covers with its petals the driven nails on the lower one.

6. The rows of tiles are oriented according to the markup, starting from 5 mm below the edge of the waterproofing carpet, shifting each new row up half a petal.

7. The finished roof can be equipped with aerators to improve layer ventilation.

Aerator.

The following video shows the whole technology from the first to the last step:

Draft ceiling covering in the attic

For a decorative finish, the layers of the roofing cake are covered from the inside with OSB boards, 6-9 mm thick. Sheets cannot be hemmed directly onto the rafters, it is necessary to obtain a 5 cm ventilation gap. To do this, 50x50 mm counter beams are stuffed onto the supporting beams.

OSB panels are fixed to the resulting crate with self-tapping screws. Fixation is carried out in compliance with the rules for mounting the oriented strand board to the ceilings with the prospect of decorative finishes in the future.

Many thousands of dwellings were equipped with a roof according to the described technology. Several decades of experience have shown that this method is reliable and proven in practice. Subject to the technology at all stages of work, the resulting roofing is durable and functional.

And much more. If the material is used for a wall, as in frame houses, the OSB board can be insulated, and a variety of materials are suitable for this.

But in this article we will talk about how to use OSB under a soft roof. After all, this material can be an excellent basis for your roof.

OSB thickness under a soft roof

The time has come to decide on the choice of material, and the problem is that OSB is produced in 4 classes and you need to choose OSB only with the necessary characteristics.

OSB under a soft roof should be class 3, it is this class that is waterproof and can bear physical exertion.

Now, we determine what should be the thickness of the OSB under a soft roof, everything will depend on the step of the rafters, and the larger it is, the thicker the sheets laid on top should be.

Here are some approximate data on the thickness of osb for the roof:

• Step 300 - OSB thickness 9 mm.
• Step 600 - OSB thickness 12 mm.
• Step 900 - OSB thickness 18 mm.
• Step 1200 - OSB thickness 21 mm.

Also, do not forget that with an increase in thickness, the weight of the osb plate also increases, therefore, with large spans, the construction of the roof becomes much more complicated, and it does not need extra weight. After all, this further gives additional loads on the walls and foundation.

Laying OSB under a soft roof can be carried out directly on the rafters. But for this it is necessary that their step is within 50-60 centimeters, and the thickness of the OSB is 12 mm.

Styling nuances:

• OSB is laid perpendicular to the rafters.
• The beginning and end of the OSB must end and, accordingly, is attached to the rafters.
• The sheets should go in a checkerboard pattern so that the vertical seams do not fall into one line.

Do not forget that OSB is a natural material and it will expand with temperature changes, so that the edges do not crumble and the sheets do not warp, leave small gaps in the seams - from 3 to 5 millimeters.

It is necessary to fasten the material to the rafters with nails, and their length should be within 50 mm, so that the material can move freely during expansion. If the nail is short, it can simply be completely pulled out of the rafters.

Nails are advised to use screw, this allows fastening over time to be more reliable than with a conventional nail.

It is also very important that the OSB lies parallel to the ridge, and strictly perpendicular to the rafters. If you overeat a few centimeters, the flooring will not forgive. Your end edges of the OSB will be strongly beveled in relation to the wooden frame of the roof.

To prevent this from happening, pull the rope that would be a guide for laying the sheets and always check everything so that you don’t have to disassemble everything later.

Of course, in some cases, you can correct it by cutting the sheet, but if you cut each sheet, the work will become more complicated several times.

The main difficulty in laying OSB on the rafters is their rise there. For such work, one or even several assistants are needed.

OSB laying under a soft roof on a crate

The option described above does not use a crate, so laying OSB under a soft roof may not be of very high quality. The problem is that the long joints of the sheets are actually in the air, which means that these places will be vulnerable on your roof.

And the problem is not at all that these edges can be deformed by temperature changes. The fact is that when snow gets on the roof, it gives a very large load on all the material and there should be no weak spots. A slight deflection and a hole can appear in your roof, which in a short time will render part of the roof unusable.

To avoid such sad cases, many masters recommend additionally throwing a crate of 20 or 25 boards. The laying of such boards is done so that the long edges of the OSB fall on this crate and are attached to it. Inside, under the OSB, there should also be two more boards that do not allow the sheet to sag.

When laying OSB on the roof, pay special attention to the weather, or to protect the sheets from rain. When moisture gets in, the sheets swell and increase their volume by 2-3 mm - even though they are waterproof. . And if you finish the roof with dry sheets, you will have a difference in thickness. And all this significantly degrades the quality of your roof.

Since sheets of 2440 × 1220 or 2500 × 1250 are usually used for such purposes, then your distance between the spans of the crate will be either 55 - 60 centimeters, when using one board under the middle of the OSB or 35-40 when there are two boards.
In the first case, the thickness of OSB-3 should be 12 millimeters, in the second, 9 mm of the panel is enough.

The material is fastened to nails, a sheet is nailed around the perimeter and in the middle in one or two rows. The distance between nails in a row should be approximately 150 mm.

Unforgettable also for the joints, in which the distance should be from 3 to 5 mm. This will allow the sheets to expand freely with temperature changes. If this is not done, the sheets will begin to put pressure on each other at the joints and will at least crumble and deform.

Video - soft roof on osb

Soft roofing is increasingly being used to decorate roofs in low-rise construction. It is practical, beautiful, modern and reliable. But the durability of its service will depend on whether the installation was carried out correctly. Of considerable importance is the correct crate for a soft roof. How to do it correctly, what requirements should it meet?

Also known as shingles. For the first time in the building materials market, it was introduced about 30 years ago. This elastic material is made on the basis of fiberglass or polyester, which are impregnated with bituminous compounds. The result is a water resistant, durable yet flexible material that is ideal for roof finishing.

The surface of a flexible tile is always covered with a special dressing - fine crumbs obtained during the processing of various minerals. And the bottom layer has a sticky base that allows you to stick the tiles on the roof. Tiles of this type are used in the arrangement of roofs with slope angles of at least 11-12 degrees.

On a note! The flexible tile differs in a wide choice of shades and flowers, the sizes. That is why you should not purchase materials made by different manufacturers, even if they are very similar to each other.

Due to its softness, such tiles need a special foundation. It can only be laid on a crate made in a certain way.

Prices for various types and manufacturers of shingles

What is a crate, its types

Lathing is an element necessary for each roof, which is a system of boards and beams on which roofing material is attached. It comes in different types, the choice among which is made depending on which roofing material is used. For example, if the roof is covered with slate, then the crate can be sparse, that is, there will be gaps between its elements (a certain step). If soft coatings are installed on the roof, then the crate should be continuous, without gaps. For laying bituminous tiles, it is necessary to use a solid type of crate.

On a note! The crate can have two layers at once - sparse and solid. Due to this, it will be possible to achieve good roof ventilation, lay thermal insulation and improve the quality and reliability of the roof as a whole.

The sparse crate is always laid perpendicular to the roof rafters (parallel to the ridge), the solid one is fixed on top of the mounted sparse one. At the same time, do not forget about laying heat and waterproofing materials.

A high-quality and properly installed crate for a soft roof must meet the following criteria:

• be strong;
• do not bend under the weight of the roofing material;
• remain stable even under the influence of environmental factors;
• be even - not have bumps, protrusions, bumps, all sharp elements are removed from it, the heads of nails and self-tapping screws should not protrude above the level of the horizontal surface of the boards;
• should not have large gaps between individual elements (maximum step - 1 cm).

On a note! Sometimes a solid crate is laid directly on the rafters, without the use of a sparse crate - the so-called single-layer flooring. This is done to speed up the construction process, usually the option is used only for houses that do not need enhanced insulation and waterproofing.

Materials for the manufacture of crates

The crate for soft tiles can be made from several types of materials. The main requirements for them are strength, reliability, durability and evenness.

Plywood most often used to create crates for soft tiles. This is an environmentally friendly material, multi-layered, sufficiently wear-resistant, inexpensive, easy to use and durable. The main thing is to purchase a moisture-resistant option for the roof - ordinary plywood cannot be used here. The most suitable brand is FSF plywood. It has the qualities necessary to create a crate - fracture strength, plasticity, low density, low weight, and is not afraid of the effects of fungus. Such plywood is resistant to moisture, which means it will not rot. In the process of its manufacture, remnants from the processing of coniferous wood are used.

Another good and suitable material for creating crates is OSB board, a somewhat improved version of the chipboard familiar to many. It is characterized by a high level of moisture resistance, dense and durable, not afraid of snow load, very smooth and does not deform under the influence of moisture. It will ensure that there are no height differences and will allow you to make the crate perfectly flat. Installation is quite simple and does not require the use of any special tools.

Lathing for a soft roof can be made of edged or tongue-and-groove softwood board. The material should have a low moisture content - no more than 20%. The width of the boards used should be 140 mm. The main disadvantage is the tendency of the boards to deform, due to moisture they often warp and bulges and cracks form on the surface of the crate.

Important! Before being used in construction, wood must be treated with antiseptic compounds, as well as preparations that increase the fire resistance of the material.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Rules for the manufacture of crates

The creation of a crate can only be done in compliance with certain rules. Otherwise, the design will not serve for a long time, it will quickly deteriorate. And the manufacturer of soft tiles does not guarantee its material in case of violation of the installation technology.

So, special attention is required to determine the value of the angle of inclination of the roof slope. If it is very small and is only 5-10 degrees, then it is necessary to lay soft tiles only on a continuous crate made of plywood, boards. And in general, in this case, this material is not recommended to be used. If the slope angle is equal to a value within 10-15 degrees, then the crate is made of a bar with a section of 45x50 mm, covered with plywood or OSB. The bars are installed in increments of 45 cm. If the angle exceeds 15 degrees, then a bar of the same section is used to create the crate, but mounted in increments of 60 cm.

Attention! When calculating the requirements for the crate, it is important to take into account the climatic features of the region - the load that the roof will experience due to snow cover. The load that will be created due to the roofing material itself is also taken into account.

Table. The dependence of the pitch of the rafters on the thickness of the material used.

During the installation of the crate, it is worth remembering the compensation gaps that are left between the elements of the material from which the solid base is created. The gap between sheets of plywood or OSB should be 5-10 mm. In the event of swelling of the material, it will save the roof from curvature, and the roofing material from damage.

plywood prices

Lathing technology. Design features

The basis of any roof is a system of rafters. They are fixed on the Mauerlat - a support that is mounted around the perimeter of the house and will experience the maximum load. Therefore, the Mauerlat must be strong and securely fixed. Fixation is carried out using anchor bolts. If the walls of the house are not built of wood, but of aerated concrete or brick, then it is recommended to additionally fix the anchors with a cement composition.

After installing the Mauerlat, the truss system is created. Rafters can be made of wood, metal and other materials. The easiest way to work with wood, it is easy to fit it to certain dimensions on the spot, and you don’t have to order special equipment to climb up. The rafters are installed in increments, which is determined based on the thickness and width of the materials used for the continuous crate (if it will be laid immediately on them). For example, with a board thickness of 2 cm, the pitch can be 50 cm. The same pitch can be used when laying plywood or OSB with a thickness of 10 cm. If the pitch is too large, the roof base will sag over time under the weight of the roofing material itself.

On a note! If the crate is mounted from a board, then it is important to round its edges in order to avoid uneven surfaces on the surface in the future.

Do not forget that the roof must have ventilation. As it, the gap that is formed between the solid and sparse crate is quite suitable. If the boards are laid on the logs, then it is important to think about how to make the air. Otherwise, condensate will accumulate under the roofing material, which will have a negative impact on all elements included in the roof structure.

Waterproofing is also an important aspect that should not be neglected.. A material capable of retaining moisture is laid on the rafters and fixed with bars - a counter-lattice is formed (sparse crate).

Thermal insulation is useful if the house is planned to be used as residential throughout the year. In the case of a temporary country house, where they will live only in the summer, thermal insulation may not be useful.

The fastening of the materials of the crate is carried out using self-tapping screws. Nails are used less often. However, regardless of which fastener option is used, the caps must in any case be recessed into the base. Otherwise, the coating on top may be damaged. Fasteners are made in increments of at least 15 cm.

Plywood sheets are stacked apart - their joints in parallel rows should not be in the same place. OSB boards are installed in a checkerboard pattern, that is, the expansion of the seams is also necessary. The joints of the longitudinal seams should be located on the bars of the batten (counter battens).

Important! After the work on creating the crate is completed, the lining carpet is laid on a flat base. Only after this is the installation of the most flexible tiles.

Don't forget the drip

A dropper provides protection for cornices and rafters from moisture. Its purpose is to remove moisture from the roof into the drainage system. Thus, this element will protect the wooden parts of the structure from moisture, the onset of rotting processes, the development of mold or fungus.

The dropper is fixed on the edge of the roof in a vertical position. Due to this, water from the roof will flow directly into the drain. As a rule, this element is made of galvanized steel, painted in such a color as to harmonize with the roofing material. It is installed around the entire perimeter of the roof. Fastening is made to the crate.

Creating a crate for soft tiles

Step 1. Taking into account the bearing capacity of the foundation and the shape of the roof, a rafter system is created from a board with a section of 150x50 mm. Elements are installed in increments of 60 cm.

Step 2 From the inside, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the rafters, which will prevent moisture coming from inside the house from affecting the roofing materials. The vapor barrier roll is rolled out parallel to the eaves, the material is fixed by using a construction stapler to the rafters. The individual strips of material are laid overlapping each other. The overlap is 10-15 cm. The membrane is also overlapped on the walls.

Step 3 Insulation is being installed. Mineral wool, which will be used in this case, has a thickness of 20 cm. This is the best option for the regions of Russia. In general, the thickness of the insulation will vary depending on the climate of the area. The material is laid on top of the vapor barrier membrane. The width of the insulation should be equal to the installation step of the rafters. If the material is laid in several layers, then the vertical seams should be spaced apart.

Attention! From the inside, several support boards are nailed to the rafters through the membrane to help hold the insulation in place.

Step 4 In increments of 60 cm, a counter beam with a section of 5x5 cm is installed. Another layer of thermal insulation 5 cm thick is laid between the individual bars.

Step 5 A vapor-diffusion membrane is being laid, which will protect the roofing materials from dust and moisture. It is laid on a heater, a roll of material is rolled out parallel to the eaves. Separate strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. The membrane is also extended 20 cm beyond the contour of the insulated layer of the building. Fixation of the material is carried out using a stapler. The overlaps are additionally glued with adhesive tape.

Step 6 To ensure under-roof ventilation, a ventilation chamber is created. To do this, counter-bars with a section of 5x5 cm and a step of 30 cm are installed parallel to the rafters. The bars are fastened in a checkerboard pattern so that there is a free gap of about 5-10 cm between them every 1.5-2 m.

Step 7 Oriented strand board or plywood creates a solid base for shingles. The thickness of the material is at least 9 mm. The plates are laid apart relative to each other, while small gaps remain between them - 4-10 mm. Sheets are laid parallel to the eaves.

Step 8 Mounting of cornice strips is carried out. They are installed on the edge of a solid base. Fixation is carried out with self-tapping screws in increments of 25-30 cm. Individual elements are installed with an overlap on each other. The overlap must be coated with sealant.

After that, the flooring of the lining carpet and the laying of the soft roof are made.

Prices for OSB (Oriented Strand Board)

OSB (Oriented Strand Board)

Video - Creating a base for a soft roof

Sheathing is one of the most important details in a roofing system created using soft tiles. It is not difficult to create a crate, but it is important to remember all the intricacies of installation, otherwise the roofing material will not last long.

In order to fix any type of roofing material on the roof, a crate is used. What it will be depends on the type of coverage. In this material, we will talk about what should be the crate for soft tiles and how to properly fix it.

In essence, a batten is a series of battens or other materials that are attached to a truss system for subsequent laying of a finish coat.

The main nuances and scheme of the crate

The sheathing scheme for flexible tiles can be of two types:

• with gaps - for the installation of hard coatings, for example, metal tiles, slate or corrugated board;
• laid in a continuous layer - for soft roofing.

It is noteworthy that the installation of a continuous crate for laying soft roofing is carried out in two layers. First, a rail or board is stuffed at intervals over the rafters, and then a continuous layer of lathing from a solid OSB slab under a soft roof or from plywood with moisture-repellent impregnation is attached to them. By the way, this finishing layer serves as additional sound and heat insulation.

Installation technology of lathing and OSB under soft tiles

As well as in the case of all other structural elements of the roof, the installation of the batten must be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

1. A continuous coating of boards or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood is performed on pitched roofs with a slope of 5-10º.
2. On the slopes, the slope of which is 10-15º, first a crate is made for OSB on the roof from bars with a section of 45 × 50 mm, laying them in 45 cm increments parallel to the eaves, and then laying waterproof plywood or chipboard.
3. The same beam is also used on roofs with a slope of more than 15º, however, they are laid 60 cm apart.
4. Additional lathing bars are installed in places where the valley is attached to the ridge run.

It is believed that the roof will last the longest if the soft roof is laid on boards calibrated to the same size. In this case, the crate will turn out to be even, without height differences, so that the joints can be perfectly adjusted. Therefore, on this basis, the coating will not be damaged ahead of time, and will not lose its performance characteristics.

The most preferred for construction are edged coniferous boards, which combine low price and good performance.

When organizing a sparse lathing for the subsequent laying of soft roofing, the boards are laid with an indent of no more than 10 cm. For a solid type of lathing, edged boards, chipboards and moisture-resistant plywood sheets are successfully used. Please note that the installation of OSB under a soft roof must be carried out necessarily on strong boards, while its humidity should not exceed 20%.

Since the crate will be exposed to external influences, it must be strong enough to withstand:

• increased snow loads in winter;
• weight of the finish.

Based on these conditions, the calculation of the structural elements of the roof is performed. In particular, if the pitch of the rafters for a soft roof is 50 cm, the crate is made of 20 mm edged boards or 10 mm waterproof plywood. When the rafter pitch is increased to 120 cm, plywood with a thickness of 20 mm or a board of 30 mm thickness is used. That is, the thickness of the OSB for a soft roof directly depends on the distance between the rafters.

Please note that wood, unlike soft tiles, is very susceptible to decay and the development of fungus. Therefore, before installation, without exception, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic.

Why do you need a drip on the roof

The dropper is one of the essential components of the crate. Its function is to protect the cornice from water leakage. This is important, because it is in these places that wooden structures are most susceptible to decay. The inner angle of the dropper can vary between 100-130º, depending on the steepness of the slopes. These elements are mounted on the edges of the roof, making sure that the water flows along them strictly vertically directly into the drain. In addition, the dropper gives the entire roof structure a more finished look.

Drip Features:

• they produce such parts from galvanized sheet steel with a polymer coating that provides additional anti-corrosion protection;
• the color scheme of the dropper must match the color of the main coating so as not to create dissonance;
• drippers must be installed around the entire perimeter of the roof in order to equally protect the roof and facade from water leakage;
• this element reduces the windage of the pitched roof, this allows you to protect the structure from the wind.

Drip installation method

The technology for installing droppers involves some nuances:

• the main part of the dropper is fixed on the crate board, while its lower segment should be directed to the drain;
• adjacent segments of steel drips are laid overlapping each other;
• additional protection of the edge of the crate is provided by front slats;
• at the next stage, the installation of the roofing carpet begins, not forgetting to coat its edges with mastic so that it grabs better;
• soft roofing is laid on top of the drip.

So, the crate is a very important element that allows you to lay a quality soft roofing.

1. For a soft roof, two layers of lathing are required, combined into a single structure.
2. The surface of a continuous crate should not contain height differences and defects.
3. To avoid damage to the soft surface, all protruding sharp edges and bends must be rounded off.
4. As a rule, a cut board with a width of 14 cm is used.
5. To prevent moisture from seeping into the space under the roof, the board should be laid with the tray up.
6. As well as sharp ribs, the ends of the edge boards must be rounded so as not to damage the roofing material.
7. Protection of wood from pests and rotting will be provided by treatment with antiseptics.
8. The strength of the wind in a particular region, as well as the slope of the pitched roof, affect the step of the crate for soft tiles. Decreases as the wind strength increases.
9. Moisture-resistant plywood sheets or chipboard under a soft roof should be laid with an indent of 1 cm so that when the material swells from moisture, it does not crack.
10. The dropper will protect the wooden cornices and the crate from the flow of precipitation.