Properly insulate the attic floor. Insulation of a cold attic in a private house. The use of extruded polystyrene foam

If you are finishing building a house, almost finishing work has already been done and you don’t know whether to take on the attic or whether this business can wait, and in general what is needed at this stage, this article will help you. Here we look at attic insulation with different types of materials, with step-by-step illustrations, expert advice and a helpful video.

We will also reveal many important points why insulation is so necessary and what the attic floor pie should actually be like on wooden beams and on a reinforced concrete slab - step by step.

What insulation is suitable for the attic?

It is necessary to insulate the attic floor when the attic space is not planned to be used for housing. Those. we are talking about a cold attic, the roof slopes of which are not insulated at all. And far from all the same materials are already suitable for overlapping, they are selected for slopes.

Mineral wool: no harmful dust

So, when insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, it is correct to use the so-called tension method. Its essence is that first the insulating material is laid - and so that it registers between the beams.

After that, a slab or rolled mineral wool insulation with a total thickness of about 150 millimeters is laid on it in three layers, and it is covered with a vapor barrier film on top. After that, plywood, which should be no thinner than 18 millimeters.

Expanded polystyrene and foam: ease of installation

High-quality insulation of the attic floor with expanded polystyrene is also obtained, the main advantage of which is that there is no need for vapor barrier, and all gaps are easily sealed with mounting foam.

Inflatable insulation: fashion and rationality

Recently, it has become especially popular to insulate the attic floor by blowing.

The main advantage of blown insulation is that it fills all the voids that exist by itself and creates an even, continuous layer. In which there are no joints, no seams and no adjoining, and for which there is no need to cut separate small pieces of prickly insulation to plug something.

Today, for the insulation of cold attics in Russia, two types of blown insulation are mainly used: ecowool and blown wool.

Ecowool up to 80% consists of cellulose fibers, which are produced from ordinary waste paper, and 20% from additives such as snowstorm as a fire retardant and boric acid as an antiseptic. Such a heater has a high thermal conductivity.

But blown wool is obtained by grinding ordinary mineral materials for thermal insulation, which for some reason did not pass the acceptance of products.

For example, they did not have sufficient density or the correct structure of the fibers. And such material is crushed and packed under high pressure, and therefore it is easy to transport it to the site of the facility, where everything will be loosened again upon arrival.

But still, ecowool is most often used as a material. The insulation itself in the process looks like this: one person must remain near the installation and monitor its normal operation, while loading the material. And the second person goes up to the attic with the hose, makes a cruciform incision on the vapor barrier (just between the beams), inserts the hose into this incision, and fills the cavity with material.

Plus, relatively inexpensive bulk materials are used to insulate a cold attic:

What parameters of the heater should be paid attention to?

In no case do we encourage you to purchase the most expensive heat-insulating materials to insulate your attic floor. But note that the more and longer any well-known company produces materials for this purpose, the more it pays attention to quality, changing their bulk density, improving their products and increasing thermal insulation coefficients. And that already says something.

For the rest, always pay attention to such parameters of heaters that are important for a wooden floor, and have none for concrete - and vice versa.

Parameter number 1. Biostability

We are talking about the fact that in such a heater, which often remains open, bugs or some other living creatures do not start. This is especially true of mice, who love to live in a warm and dry (and, most importantly, deserted) attic.

Another important requirement for attic insulation is water resistance. Raindrops accidentally falling into it or simply moisture should not lead to the process of decay.

Glass wool is recognized as one of the most resistant heaters:

Parameter number 2. Thermal conductivity

The main requirements for insulation for the attic floor is the ability to maintain thermal insulation properties for a long time.

When buying a heater, also pay attention to such an interesting point: modern manufacturers of thermal insulation materials always indicate in the technical specification three coefficients of thermal conductivity of the material at once: in a dry state, at a temperature of 10 ° and 25 °, and humidity categories A and B.

You need to look at the coefficient of thermal conductivity in a dry state, or at a temperature of 10 degrees, because this is exactly the normal climatic situation in the attic. For a more accurate and detailed thermal calculation, you will need a SNiP table.

Now let's take a moment. When choosing a heater, you will probably be advised to take a heater with the lowest possible degree of thermal conductivity. But in fact, this only makes sense for residential attics, because when you have to insulate the roof slopes, then too thick materials cannot be laid between the rafters. Therefore, materials are needed here that will conduct heat as poorly as possible, but at the same time have a small thickness.

But for the attic floor, just the thickness of the insulation is not a critical factor, and you can save on this. Just take a cheaper insulation, but thicker, albeit with high thermal conductivity. You are all compensated by the height of the insulation itself.

Parameter number 3. Weight

Depending on the chemical composition, each insulation has its own volumetric mass. So, materials such as basalt, glass and any other inorganic and organic compounds are most often used as the basis for fibers. From their type, the heat-insulating material itself becomes either light or heavy. And the shape of all these materials is provided precisely by the elasticity of the fibers: how much they straighten between the floor beams.

Note that heavy insulation keeps its shape better due to the rigidity of its fibers. And foam insulation has the best stability for attic floor insulation, which in this parameter is equated to hard stone wool. But there is a moment: the same mineral wool insulation that was inserted between the floor beams can be easily straightened and pressed tightly against the wood, but the foam will not do this, and voids form - the bridges are cold. Therefore, you will have to additionally use a can of foam to close all the cracks.

But, if the attic floor is insulated on a reinforced concrete slab with foam-based materials, then there will only be pluses. Not to mention the fact that the attic concrete floor itself already has a considerable weight and creates a serious load on the walls and foundation of the house, and the use of light insulation for it is only a big bonus.

And unlike the concrete floor, the attic floor is able to withstand a fairly limited load. Therefore, the weight of the insulation in this regard is also not the last moment. After all, there are already many variations here: the same cubic meter of thermal insulation can weigh as much as 11 kilograms, and all 350 - this is the norm.

One of the heaviest heaters is basalt wool:

Parameter number 4. Moisture resistance

Rain moisture or roof leaks accidentally getting into the insulation should not start the rotting process. It is bad if after six months or a year the new insulation begins to decompose from the inside, while emitting an unpleasant smell of dampness.

Therefore, attic floor insulation on wooden beams and on concrete is quite often done using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, which are known for their almost zero hydrophobicity.

Parameter number 5. Environmental friendliness

Another point: the attic insulation should not emit any toxic and pungent substances in terms of smell, despite the fact that, perhaps, no one will walk in such an attic.

It's all about ventilation: sooner or later, the insulation molecules are picked up by the air and brought into the living quarters, which can be unsafe for the residents of the house. Therefore, choose a heater that meets sanitary standards.

Parameter number 6. Shape saving

Another important point is the form stability of the selected insulation. So, special laboratory tests have shown that over time, heat loss through the gaps between the plates or the matte heat insulator can reach 40%. And this despite the fact that the material itself during the same time may not change its thermal conductivity at all, if at the same time it remained dry.

Therefore, the stability of the shape and dimensions of the material over time is very important. For the concrete floor of the attic, such gaps will not be critical, because here the floor itself is quite heat-insulating, which cannot be said about the attic floor.

But the problem is that in the technical information for modern heat insulators such a parameter as shape or stability cannot be found.

Parameter number 7. Fire safety

And the last point: attic insulation must meet all fire safety requirements. Take the same popular ecowool, which is not just made from ordinary waste paper and pieces of newspapers. It would seem that everything is simple and ingenious, why don't you cut the paper into smaller pieces too, and just fill the attic with it? Would it be worse? After all, the principle of friability is also involved here, like in animal hair, when air molecules get stuck between small elements.

Let's just say: yes, the insulating properties of this method will not be worse, but it is the old dry paper and wood that most often leads to an unexpected fire. That is why modern cellulose insulation is necessarily treated with special chemicals against fire.

If we are talking about the combustibility of materials, then it is important that the insulation not only does not burn, but also has attenuation. Just remember that everything burns at the epicenter of the fire, both iron and concrete, but if a spark falls on the attic floor, then the insulation should not light up. That's what it's all about.

This is what the attic insulation cake itself should look like:

Vapor barrier questions: how, on which side and is it necessary?

For the insulation of roofing made of wood and concrete, the vapor permeability of the insulation is of great importance. So, all heaters that are made today in the form of plates and rolls can be conditionally divided into "wool" and "foam", as building contractors like to do.

To "cotton" we will refer heat-insulating materials from organic and mineral fibers - these are mineral wool, stone wool and glass wool insulation. All these materials are formed by the hardening of plastic masses of very different chemical origins. And all these materials have approximately the same coefficient of thermal conductivity: within 0.04.

All these materials are made up of fibers that are intertwined with each other. They do not form any closed pores, and water vapor easily enters and escapes through them. Therefore, all wadded heaters are vapor-permeable materials. Why, under production conditions, their fibers are additionally coated with a special water-repellent substance, and the heaters also turn out to be hydrophobized: a water molecule from water vapor is not allowed to penetrate and wet the insulation. It can only cling to its surface, and when a critical mass accumulates, it transforms into drops and rolls down. It turns out that hydrophobized cotton wool insulation is not a wet vapor-permeable material.

Therefore, until now, scientists from all over the world cannot come to an unambiguous conclusion: the vapor permeability of building insulation is good or bad. Let's just say that if you equip the attic floor on wooden beams, you'd better lay vapor-permeable materials on it so that the wooden rafters, which have taken on moisture from the lower living quarters (and water vapor always rises), can freely give it to the insulation . And they will easily come out of the insulation - through ventilation alone is enough. But in terms of floor insulation on concrete, there is not much difference. But there is such a moment here: when using vapor-permeable heaters, it is important that the ventilation of such an attic is organized in accordance with all the rules, and a separate ventilation system will not interfere.

Note that there are no fibers in foam insulation, since such material is literally made from air. All foam insulation consists of a cellular structure, with closed bubbles and not closed, like a kitchen sponge. Therefore, such heat insulators can be both vapor-permeable and non-vapor-permeable. For example, extruded polystyrene foam, which is better known to us as polystyrene, passes water vapor between the balls, but extruded polystyrene foam does not.

Interestingly, you can use not only one type of insulation, but two at once to compensate for each other's shortcomings. But at the same time, a heat-insulating material with a lower vapor permeability must necessarily lie in front of a heater with a high vapor permeability. That is, first polystyrene foam, then cotton wool. Otherwise, in the opposite case, a material with a lower vapor permeability will become a certain vapor barrier for another material, it will simply begin to rot and there will be nowhere for moisture to go.

How to insulate a concrete attic floor

If we are talking about the insulation of the attic floor of concrete, then the thermal insulation must necessarily be in the form of two or three layers with overlapping joints of each lower layer. Moreover, it is very important that the entire surface be leveled so that there are no irregularities of more than 5 millimeters anywhere - this is not difficult to achieve with the help of modern leveling compounds.

For concrete attic floors, extruded polystyrene foam slabs are ideal as thermal insulation. They don't need a vapor barrier, but if you put styrofoam - it's not extruded polystyrene foam, and then, of course, you need it.

Additionally, if you later need to walk on such a floor, you can make a cement-sand screed up to 4 centimeters and put two layers of drywall sheets. Just be sure to make masonry mesh paths for such a screed that you will walk along. Be sure to glue the joints between the foam polystyrene plates with adhesive tape so that cement milk does not leak between the plates.

The attic floor itself can be insulated both at the manufacturing stage and at almost any time during the operation of the house itself. Of course, for the attic it is much more correct to insulate the floor even before you move into your new home.

More details about the process itself:

How to insulate a wooden attic floor

So, there are two main ways to insulate the attic floor: laying a heat-insulating layer inside the structure of the attic floor, and laying insulation on top of it. For a cold and non-residential attic, it is not necessary to cover the insulation with something on top and build a full-fledged floor. But then be sure to leave the running ladders - separate paths from the sparse flooring throughout the attic area, this is necessary for roof maintenance.

Under the insulation, you need to put a vapor barrier, and in the form of a trough, so that it can protect the insulation from water vapor, which comes from the lower living quarters. But there is an exception to this rule: if the insulation was laid with good resistance, for example, it is foam or extruded polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier is not needed here. But if we are talking about an attic with a particularly wet regime, for example, above a kitchen or a sauna, then a vapor barrier layer must be installed here.

Another method is tension, when the vapor barrier only sags slightly between the beams. The disadvantage of this method is that in this way the insulation between the beams is not inserted tightly enough.

And if the overlap is also made from ready-made companies, then this option is not suitable at all, because such voids quickly become the so-called cold bridges. Therefore, in Russia the method is more popular, in which the insulation is first laid, then it is covered with a vapor barrier, and only then - with a finishing floor.

So, this is what the whole process of warming looks like:

• Step 1. A vapor barrier is fixed between the beams using a construction stapler.
• Step 2. Next, mineral wool slabs are cut so that their width is corresponding to the step of the beams.
• Step 3. These plates are carefully inserted into the gap between the beams.
• Step 4. For a while, while the ceiling is not yet ready below, so that the insulation does not fall between the beams, it is supported by draft bars or a strong thread stretched especially for this.
• Step 5. Next, a diffuse membrane is quickly mounted on top of the insulation - so that steam can easily escape through it, and drops from above from the slopes do not penetrate inside.

But let us also note such a moment about the last step. Many experts believe that no diffuse membranes or windproof films are needed for insulation, because in a cold attic, thermal insulation will dry due to natural ventilation of convection air flows that easily penetrate through holes and dormer windows.

How to leave running ladders in a heater

If you use soft thermal insulation materials to insulate the attic floor, you need to make running ladders above them - but only so that cold bridges do not turn out. Therefore, it is better to take either rigid materials, or insert the legs of the ladders directly into the insulation.

That's all the tricks of warming the attic floor of various types!

In this article, we will consider how to properly insulate the attic with mineral wool. We will find out how to take measurements and calculate the need for materials, as well as what tools to choose for the job. But the most interesting is a step-by-step description of the insulation of the attic.

Step by step description of the workflow

All work consists of separate stages:

• Measurements and calculations;
• Acquisition of necessary materials and tools;
• Laying vapor barrier and insulation.

Measurements and calculations

The preparatory part of the work consists of the following steps:

Illustration	Stage description
	span length is measured. You must know the exact length of the gaps from edge to edge.
	The width of the gaps and the height of the beams are measured. The width will help us calculate the area that needs to be insulated. The height is needed in order for you to determine whether the insulation will fit into the gaps, or if you have to lay another layer on top of the beams.
	The area of ​​insulation is calculated. It is important to remember one nuance here - the sheets are cut so that they are slightly wider than the openings and enter them tightly. This allows you to achieve high-quality insulation. After calculating, add another 5-7% to the final result for the difference in size.
	The thickness of the insulation is determined. Lest you count, I will present the options depending on the lowest temperatures in winter: Up to -15 70 mm; Up to -20 80 mm; Up to -25 90 mm; Up to -30 100 mm; Up to -35 120 mm. Thickness can be more, but not less.

You should not trust the project documentation and calculate everything according to it. The actual dimensions very often differ from the design ones, so it is better to spend time and check all the parameters.

Preparation of materials and tools

To work, you need the following materials:

Illustration	Stage description
	insulation. In our case, mineral wool will be used. The material is available both in slabs and in rolls, which one needs to be decided according to the situation. If the thickness of one layer of mineral wool is not enough for thermal insulation, then two-layer insulation is used.
	Vapor barrier material. To protect the insulation from the formation of condensate, a vapor barrier must be laid on the base. When purchasing material, remember that laps of 100 mm are made at the joints. For additional reliability, it is desirable to glue the joints with adhesive tape.
	waterproofing film. When insulating a cold attic, it is imperative to close the material on top with a reinforced waterproofing film to protect it from temperature extremes and humidity. It is better to choose reinforced options, they have high strength.
	Bar for crates. Necessary if the height of the beams is not enough for laying insulation and it is necessary to lay another layer on top. The size is selected in such a way that a gap of 30-50 mm remains above the stone wool for ventilation.

If the rough filing of the attic floor has not been made, then you will need a 32 mm thick edged board and self-tapping screws for its fastening.

When doing do-it-yourself work, you will need a tool:

• Knife for cutting insulation. It is best to purchase a special option to carry out accurately and quickly, it is suitable for both hard boards and soft roll materials;

• Construction stapler. With it, you very quickly and securely fix the vapor barrier and waterproofing material. Do not forget to purchase hardened staples 6-8 mm long;

• Tape measure or meter. Necessary for measurements when cutting mineral wool;
• Scotch. With its help, the joints of the membrane are glued together. The most common option, the price of which is low, will do;

• Putty knife. Used to push the edges of the insulation between the beams. When using rigid plates, this device is not needed;
• Remedies. When insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, be sure to use protective gloves, it is also advisable to wear goggles and a respirator.

Description of the workflow

Insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool from the side of the attic is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustration	Stage description
	Surface being prepared. Everything superfluous is taken out from the attic, after which you need to sweep the garbage with a broom. Check for protruding nails and other elements that may interfere with work.
	Vapor barrier is being laid. Insulation of the cold attic floor without this material is prohibited. The membrane is laid on the surface and pressed against the beams, after which it is fixed on them with a stapler. It is not necessary to stretch the material too much so as not to damage it. The photo shows the correct installation.
	Joints are sealed with tape. Even laps of 100 mm do not guarantee the reliability of the vapor barrier layer. Therefore, they are glued with adhesive tape along the entire length in order to create a continuous barrier to moisture.
	Mineral wool is cut into pieces of the desired size. For effective insulation of the attic floor, all elements must adjoin the beams as tightly as possible. Rigid cotton wool is cut 5 mm wider than the opening, and soft wool is cut 10-20 mm wider, the best option is selected experimentally.
	A layer of mineral wool is laid. The insulation technology is simple - the elements are placed as tightly as possible, the presence of gaps is unacceptable. If the insulation is narrower than the space between the beams, then it is laid so that as little waste as possible is obtained.
	If necessary, laying is done in two layers.. The instructions for carrying out the work are no different from the paragraph above. The only important nuance is that the sheets should be placed with an offset so that the joints between the elements do not match.
	Waterproofing is being covered. In any private house with a cold attic, condensation will form in the ceiling insulation if it is not protected with insulating material. Fastening is carried out with a stapler, above the mineral wool it is desirable to have ventilation ducts with a size of 30-50 mm.
	If necessary, the flooring is attached. Floors in the attic of the house are laid if in the future you plan to make an attic floor. The work is simple - the board is laid and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. In this case, roof insulation is also carried out, the process is described in detail in a separate review.

If you need to put a layer of insulation on top of the beams, then it is better to place the frame bars perpendicularly. Then the joints between the sheets will not match, and the quality of the insulation will be the best.

In a similar way, the floor is also insulated in a private house, the difference lies in the thickness of the insulation being laid. The process does not require any special tools. Everything you need is almost always at hand, which is why it is within the power of any developer. Of course, this option is not suitable for a concrete floor.

Conclusion

I am sure that after reading this review, anyone can cope with the work of insulating the attic. The video will help you understand the topic even better, and if you have any questions, then write them in the comments.

Insulation of the attic floor makes it possible to save thermal energy inside the room, thereby preventing the cost of heating a cold attic. Still nothing if the attic is used as a utility room or attic, but what if not? Of course, it makes no sense to spend money on heating it in this case.

For this reason, it is desirable to cover the attic floor with the use of thermal insulation materials. This can be done both outside and inside. Ideally, insulation should begin at the stage of building a house or, alternatively, right before finishing the premises. However, even while living there is no reason not to take care of the insulation of the ceiling from the attic.

Note! The thickness of the insulation layer is stated in SNiP. In addition, there you can find all the necessary calculations of the heat transfer resistance of various insulating materials, taking into account the average annual temperature, the material used in the construction and the length of the heating season.

But before proceeding directly to the insulation, you must identify the type of attic floor. In the private construction of residential buildings (regardless of whether wood is used, bricks or blocks), it can only be of two types. But both must be built according to certain rules and have a well-defined design.

Basic requirements for attic floors

The main quality that any attic floor must necessarily have is strength. If we are talking about a mansard roof, then the entire structure should not sag or deform under the weight of furniture or equipment located in the attic. There is such a thing as the norm of deflection. For attic structures, it is 1/200 of the entire span. The maximum load per square meter is 105 kilograms. Another equally important parameter of the floor is fire safety, which is more true for wood structures. So, fire resistance has such limits:

1. for concrete or reinforced concrete structures, this is 1 hour;
2. for wooden structures (in the absence of additional protection) - five minutes;
3. for wooden floors along beams, with backfill and plaster - about 45 minutes;
4. for wooden floors with only one plastered surface - 15 minutes.

Features of the overlap device

It is often the beam ceiling that is encountered, which is explained by the simplicity and low cost of installation, so we will focus on it. Often they are found in wooden buildings, and elements of both wood and metal can serve as beams. According to experts, option number 1 is preferable, because:

1. wood is cheaper than metal;
2. it has excellent thermal insulation performance;
3. it is easier to handle.

Insulation of the attic floor, if there are beams, consists in laying insulating material between them. If the height of the beams is not enough for this, then the bars are additionally stuffed from above. Before proceeding with laying, a vapor barrier layer should be laid (only not a plastic film, since the vapors that leave the room will not be able to penetrate outside). And if the film is still used, then the level of humidity in the house will increase markedly, especially if the ventilation system is not working properly. For this reason, it is preferable to purchase a modern vapor barrier, which can be laid in such a way that the air leaves the room, but does not penetrate into the house from the attic. And if such material is with foil, then it must be laid “face down”.

But how to choose the right insulation so that the resulting “sandwich” is as effective as possible? We will talk about this now.

Types of insulation for the attic

There are a lot of such materials, but we will consider only the most popular of them. Here they are:

1. mineral wool;
2. Styrofoam;
3. sawdust;
4. expanded clay.

Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

The use of mineral wool

Mineral wool is an effective insulation, the fibers in which are arranged in a special way. Due to such randomness, an oxygen “cushion” is formed between the fibers, due to which the material acquires its properties. But because of the same feature, mineral wool or absorbs moisture. In order to prevent this, the installation must be carried out properly.

The advantages of this material are undeniable:

1. density;
2. ease of installation;
3. long service life;
4. fire safety;
5. finally, if the cotton wool is installed horizontally, then it does not slip and does not cake (read: cold bridges do not appear).

But there is also a drawback that we talked about - it absorbs moisture.

Mounting technology

Mineral wool can be laid in three possible ways:

1. into cells;
2. into furrows;
3. continuous.

The first method is the most efficient. The laying technology itself is as follows.

Step 1. First, lay the vapor barrier material - this is necessary to remove the steam that rises from the premises. For proper installation, you must familiarize yourself with the markings on the film made by the manufacturer.

Note! Do not forget to observe the obligatory overlap of 10 centimeters.

If thermal insulation is made along the beams, then the vapor barrier must go around each element that protrudes, otherwise the beams will soon rot.

Step 2 Where the film joins with walls and other surfaces that protrude, lift it to the height of the insulating material + 5 centimeters, then wrap it behind the material plates or glue it with adhesive tape.

Step 3 After that, proceed to laying the insulating material. This procedure is extremely simple, since strips and slabs can be easily cut with a construction knife.

Step 4 When laying, pay attention to the fact that the insulation is not squeezed and there are no gaps. You can see common mistakes in the image below.

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In the first case, the thickness of the thermal insulation is not enough; in the rest, the same parameter of the attic floor is incorrectly selected.

1. Foil material will increase resistance to heat loss. But the material itself should be laid down with foil.
2. If there are protruding structural elements in the attic, then the insulation should be raised by 40-50 centimeters and fixed.
3. If a thin insulation material is laid in two layers, then it will be more effective than one thick layer.
4. Do not allow material to protrude beyond the beams. But if this still happened, extend it with a rail or beam to the thickness of the material itself.

Step 5 If the rafter system is not protected by a waterproofing layer, and the attic space will not be used, then it is necessary to lay waterproofing.

Step 6 It remains only to make a rough floor. To do this, lay it on a heater - this will be the basis for the final finish.

Use of Styrofoam

Insulation of the attic floor with polystyrene foam is in many ways reminiscent of a similar procedure with the use of polystyrene foam. Moreover, the advantages of these materials are common - here they are:

1. cheapness;
2. water resistance;
3. ease of installation.

Mounting technology

Installing foam for attic insulation is extremely simple - you can easily handle the procedure on your own. All work is divided into several stages.

Step 1. Level the surface. In order for the thermal insulation to be of the highest quality, no irregularities should remain on the base. And if you need to eliminate the recesses, then fill everything with a cement screed.

Step 2 Lay the insulation boards - between the bars or end-to-end. What is characteristic, if there are bars, then the strength of the structure will increase significantly.

Note! All joints (between the bars inclusive) must be carefully sealed. When avoiding obstacles, cut holes as accurately as possible. Finally, it is a homogeneous layer that saves thermal energy best of all.

To protect the foam in a non-residential attic from destruction, you can use a film. But if the attic is used often and people move along it, then the foam must be covered with a subfloor - it can be like a screed of cement and sand or OSB boards.

Using sawdust for attic insulation

Who does not know, shredded wood is called sawdust. We are talking about this material now, because it also has significant advantages, including:

1. availability;
2. naturalness;
3. light weight;
4. absence of any harmful or toxic substances.

The minus is the same as that of polystyrene - flammability.

The procedure for warming with sawdust

Step 1. First, prepare the sawdust, that is, mix it with water and cement in a ratio of 10-1-1.

Step 2 Pour the attic floor with the resulting mixture, and then carefully level it. Note that it is possible to insulate the attic with sawdust without a frame only if it (the attic) is non-residential. Otherwise, the sawdust will be pressed while walking, and the screed, respectively, will collapse.

Step 3 Using timber, build a honeycomb structure. Next, fill each cell with the mixture described above. The main advantage of this technology is that it will be possible to lay a subfloor on top of the timber, and the room itself can be actively used.

The use of expanded clay for insulation

Sufficiently high-quality insulation of the attic floor can be made using expanded clay. Who does not know, this material is obtained after firing clay. The main advantages of expanded clay include:

1. availability;
2. low thermal conductivity;
3. light weight;
4. environmental friendliness;
5. naturalness.

But there is also a minus, which lies in the difficulty of raising the material to the height of the attic.

Note! Often this material is used when it is required to insulate the ceiling over the slabs.

Instructions for insulation with expanded clay

The whole procedure can be conditionally divided into the following stages.

Step 1. First, inspect the plates for cracks or gaps. If any are found, seal them with mortar and cover with thick paper. What is characteristic, even with protruding structural elements, there are no difficulties when backfilling.

Step 2 Using a beam, build a crate. A subfloor will subsequently be laid on top of this grating.

Step 3 Pour the material onto the slab and level it with a rake. The thickness should be approximately 25-30 centimeters. It is characteristic that you can walk on expanded clay - there are no restrictions in this case.

Note! Falling asleep expanded clay, try to combine pebbles of various fractions (sizes). This will prevent voids from forming.

At the end, fill everything with a concrete screed or mount a subfloor.

The main nuances of the procedure

1. The tree rots, therefore, the steam rising from the house must pass freely. If you install a vapor barrier or use a material that does not "breathe" for this, then soon the tree may collapse.
2. Insulation with foil should be laid with it (foil) down to protect the wood from moisture.

You can see examples of correct and incorrect installation in the image below.

But the universal scheme is the insulation of the attic floor using any of the materials.

Video - thermal insulation of the attic floor

As a result, we note that the thermal insulation of the attic floor will be as effective as possible if the attic itself is reliably protected from the penetration of moisture from the outside. In other words, you also need to properly equip the roof. Good luck with your work!

When providing insulation for a private house, one must not forget that special attention should be paid to such a place as the attic.

Warm air tends to rise to the top, and therefore, in a temporarily unheated room, heat can escape through the space of a cold attic. Therefore, the issue of attic insulation must be addressed without delay.

1 Why is attic floor insulation necessary?

Insulation of the cold floor of the attic with stone or mineral wool, by and large, is necessary in little used premises, which are properly equipped with special roof ventilation.

The attic, or rather its ceilings, perform the function of a kind of boundary between heat and cold. In such places, attic floors are exposed to intense moisture due to the formation of condensate.

However, it is possible to properly insulate the floors in the attic of the house with mineral wool with your own hands. The very process of insulating the floor in the attic with mineral wool is the creation of a durable thermal insulation coating, which will have a low degree of thermal conductivity.

The very technology of insulating the floor with mineral wool in the attic, as well as implies strict adherence to its stages and requirements.

By itself, this technology is quite simple and understandable. Good thermal insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool helps to close unwanted gaps.

To do this, the insulation must be laid tightly. In most cases, mineral wool is used to insulate the attic of a house.

The presented insulation is the most suitable for this type of work, it can also be used to insulate the floor surface in the living quarters of the house.

With the organization of good insulation with mineral wool, the most optimal temperature will be maintained in the living quarters.

If the procedure is not performed correctly, then moisture rising from the floor of the house will lead to the formation of condensate.

It will accumulate on the ceiling, and then seep through the floors. The resulting temperature difference in those areas where attic floors adjoin the walls of the house initiates the formation of mold and microscopic fungi, which can be the causative agents of allergic diseases.

1.1 Attic insulation requirements

The process of insulating the attic floor and, more precisely, the level of its quality has a direct impact not only on the size of heat loss, but also on the duration of the operational life of the entire truss structure and roofing.

The fact is that the water vapor inside the heated room diffuses to the attic of the house. In order for the applied insulation to provide a high degree of calculated efficiency of the heat-insulating layer, it must always be dry.

Based on this, the insulation must be protected from excessive moisture by vapors of ascending heated air using a special vapor-tight material.

If the attic is well insulated, then it will not only provide high-quality thermal insulation, but will also help to increase the operational life of the entire roof structure.

If there is no vapor barrier, then steam will penetrate through the unprotected floors of the attic and condense on the surfaces of the floor.

This will lead to the fact that moisture will drain onto the rafters, which, under its influence, will slowly begin to rot from the inside.

As a result, the probability of destruction of the entire roofing pie increases. The thermal insulation performance of the structure is also reduced due to the fact that the tightness of the vapor barrier layer has been broken.

Before you insulate the attic, you need to drain the layer and remove moisture from the entire attic space. To do this, ventilation should be done through windows. They can be:

• Skating like;
• eaves;
• slotted;
• Auditory.

In order to ensure maximum ventilation intensity, the indicator of the total area of ​​​​all ventilation openings should be equal to 0.2-0.5% of attic floors.

If all the work is carried out correctly, then in the winter, icicles will not form on the roof. The process of warming the attic space is carried out not from the living quarters, but from the floor of the attic.

So it is most convenient to lay insulation, the choice of which depends on the technology used and the design features of the structure.

1.2 Features of insulation of beam ceilings

When implementing such an insulation scheme using mineral wool, heat is stored in the space between the beams. Their usual height is almost always enough for this, however, if necessary, several bars are stuffed on top.

The lower part of the overlap is sewn up with the help of molded material as with. For this, lining or drywall sheets can be used.

On top of the beams, a subfloor covering is laid. It can be a tongue-and-groove board, plywood sheet or OSB board. Mineral wool is adjusted to a special vapor barrier prepared in advance.

An alternative to it can serve as an ordinary film made using polyethylene. If the vapor barrier material is foiled, then it is laid with a shiny surface down.

The intermediate distance between the beams is filled with mineral wool with the desired thickness parameters. The surface of the beams must be equipped with an additional insulating layer.

This will block the so-called cold bridges and significantly reduce the overall level of heat loss. If a high quality beam was used to create the beams, then the finishing material will spread directly onto their surface.

Mineral wool is placed between them as with, and the attic floor is laid on top. The use of this technology is especially important in houses that are made of logs or beams.

It is important to protect the mineral wool with a high degree of reliability from the ingress of the smallest drops of moisture, this is especially true if the roof has minor coating defects, due to which leaks occur.

The layer of mineral wool must be reliably protected from the effects of wind from the side of the eaves. For this, mineral wool slabs with a high degree of density are used.

2 Why is mineral wool used for attic insulation?

In most cases, when insulating attic floors, the choice of the consumer falls on mineral wool. Its advantage lies in the fact that its installation does not require special skills.

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation properties. Its structure consists of thin vitreous fibers, the length of which ranges from 2 to 60 millimeters.

High soundproofing characteristics are provided due to the presence of a large number of air pores.

These pores are located in the space between the fibers and can occupy 95% of the total volume of the insulation. Mineral wool is presented in three varieties, it can be basalt glass and stone.

Basalt wool is made using molten basalt rocks, to which binders are added.

This may be a carbonate-type rock, which regulates the level of acidity of the substance, which entails an increase in the service life of the insulation. Glass wool exhibits high heat-resistant properties and is able to withstand temperatures up to +450 degrees Celsius.

2.1 Technology of insulation of attic floors with mineral wool

During work related to mineral wool, it is important to comply with all safety requirements and regulations.

This is due to the fact that in the process of cutting and laying such material, the air is filled with tiny particles that can enter the respiratory organs and thus cause harm to human health.

When carrying out installation, be sure to take care of the availability of personal protective equipment. Goggles, a respirator and thick rubber gloves should be available.

The process of warming attic floors begins with the selection of the necessary tools and additional materials. Can't do without:

insulation

• Boards and plywood;
• vapor barrier film;
• Mineral wool (excellent);
• Waterproofing;
• adhesive tape;
• Roulettes;
• Knife;
• Construction stapler;
• spatula.

The essence of the insulation technology lies in the fact that the insulation must be carefully laid in the space between attic floors or beams.

To enhance the thermal insulation qualities, reliable vapor barrier should be used. Warm and moisture-saturated air will continuously rise from the living rooms and go up through the ceiling.

There, in the roof space, he will collide with a layer of insulation. Due to the fact that mineral wool is generally recognized as a vapor-tight material, it will take all the outgoing moisture into itself.

If it is left without the necessary access of air and sunlight, it will gradually shrink and, in the end, will lose all its heat-insulating qualities.

In order to avoid such destructive consequences, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material under a layer of mineral wool.

Before starting the main work, it will be necessary to carefully calculate the required amount of insulation.

The amount of wool purchased depends on how many layers you plan to use when covering the attic. In addition, the thermal insulation thickness parameter directly depends on the climatic conditions in the region.

2.2 Proper insulation of the attic floor (video)

Over time, every owner of a private house thinks about attic insulation. After all, every year the materials lose their original qualities, which leads to the loss of heat that escapes through the attic.

Thermal insulation of the house is a priority that must be addressed before the onset of cold weather. So, as everyone knows, a warm house is far from one that is well heated, but one that does not let all this heat through.

It should also be noted that the insulation of the attic of a private house with polystyrene foam or any other insulation will make it possible to significantly reduce heating costs.

That is why the question of how and with what to insulate the attic becomes as relevant as possible.

As a standard, this kind of insulation is necessary in underused rooms. It is also important to note that they must necessarily be equipped with properly equipped roof ventilation.

The attic, together with its ceilings, performs a very important function, namely, it acts as a boundary between heat and cold. A large amount of condensate accumulates here and this happens as a result of the intensive effect of moisture on the attic. And this must be taken into account when warming your private house.

Many firms and companies offer similar services, but it often happens that the prices for their services are too high and many people think about insulating the house on their own. You can insulate your house with your own hands. However, for this it is important to take into account all the features of the installation of a particular insulation.

The following describes in more detail all the materials that can be used as insulation for the attic. Here, all the advantages, as well as their disadvantages, will be considered, and everything so that in the end you can choose the best option for yourself.

But first you need to determine the main types of heaters:

• bulk;
• slab;
• roll;
• sprayed.

It should be noted that each of the options has its own characteristics and can be used as a heater for the attic. It is important to understand that only the main materials that have received the most positive feedback are listed here.

Warming with mineral wool, ecowool

Mineral wool, perhaps, is by far the most popular material for warming the mountain. This is a classic in the construction industry. After all, it is used by both professional teams and people who decide to deal with the issue of insulation on their own.

Such a wide popularity of mineral wool was achieved due to its excellent performance characteristics. Especially if you take into account basalt mineral wool. It is non-flammable and easy to install.

It is also worth considering some of its other advantages, which include:

• Simplicity in the process of operation, while working with mineral wool, there are absolutely no problems, even for those who insulate the attic on their own.
• It has a "breathing effect" and it is due to this that a good microclimate is created.
• Not amenable to combustion.
• Allows you to create good sound insulation.
• Environmentally friendly material.
• Many note its property not to lose shape even over a long period of use.
• It has a relatively small weight, which in no way affects the main structure.
• Rodents and other pests will not be able to spoil it.
• The minimum level of thermal conductivity.
• One of the cheapest materials that is suitable for insulating the attic of a private house.

It should also be said that mineral wool is sold both in rolls and in slabs. And this makes it possible to choose the most suitable option, which will be easier for you to lay.

Important! If you decide to insulate the attic with mineral wool, then you should take care of both waterproofing and vapor barrier. This is due to the fact that this material is afraid of moisture. And if you ignore this moment, then after a while the mineral wool will lose its original appearance and its performance characteristics.

Attic insulation with polystyrene foam

Everyone who is wondering how to insulate the attic has the idea to use polystyrene foam. And this is not at all accidental, since this material is even more common than mineral wool. It is also used by professional builders in their work, and it is perfect for independent work.

The main feature that polystyrene has is an acceptable price. It is actually the cheapest building material that can be used as attic insulation.

It is also important to note that expanded polystyrene is much denser than cotton wool, and therefore it is a pleasure to lay it, since it is an “obedient” material. It can be easily processed and laid in the right place.

In addition, there are a number of other advantages:

• Perfectly keeps its original shape.
• Not affected by moisture.
• Low thermal conductivity, an order of magnitude lower than that of mineral wool.
• The ability to create excellent sound insulation.

But along with a large number of advantages, this material also has significant disadvantages, which include the following indicators:

• Highly flammable, just one spark is enough for the foam to begin to smolder.
• It does not let steam through, and therefore it is impossible to achieve the effect of "breathing walls" with this insulation.
• If you do not additionally protect the polystyrene foam, then the rodents will gnaw it “with pleasure”, and therefore you can end up without attic insulation.

Despite all its shortcomings, polystyrene still remains one of the leaders in the field of attic insulation. After all, fires do not happen so often, additional protection of the material can be used from rodents, but the "breathing effect" is not so important on the mountain.

Therefore, we can conclude that for such a low price, this is just a great option.

Insulation for the attic

A similar method of warming the mountain in a private house is the most fashionable today. It is used by almost all companies that offer such construction services.

The main advantage that this attic insulation has is that it independently fills all the space, voids and at the same time creates a uniform and continuous layer. You no longer need to cut blocks in order to close up all the holes.

In Russia today, two blown heaters are used: blown wool and ecowool.

The latter consists of 80% cellulose fibers. They are also made from the most common waste paper, but the remaining 20% ​​are a wide variety of additives, which can be boric acid, which acts as an antiseptic, and snowstorm as a fire retardant.

Blown wool is completely composed of standard mineral substances, which are designed for thermal insulation. It is important to note that it is highly crushed.

Insulation with bulk materials: expanded clay

If you are still thinking about how to insulate the attic in a private house, then you should pay attention to expanded clay. This is one of the easiest ways to insulate the attic without resorting to specialists.

Expanded clay is a ball that is poured onto the floor, trying to distribute them as evenly as possible. As you already understood, they can only insulate the floor, the ceiling will not work, in no way.

The advantages of the material include the following:

• Not flammable.
• Resistant to low temperatures.
• Has high strength.
• Creates excellent sound insulation.
• Environmentally friendly material that does not affect human health in any way.
• Has a long service life.
• Provides good thermal insulation.

The material is poured on top of the roofing material, the minimum layer must be at least 15 cm. In order to be able to walk in the attic, you will need to make a concrete screed.

Sawdust as insulation for the attic

The technical characteristics of this material are in no way inferior to modern synthetic insulation.

Important! Sawdust for insulation is used extremely rarely, since there is a large selection of other materials on the market that are much easier to work with.

Sawdust Benefits:

• Sawdust is an environmentally friendly material.
• Low cost.
• Long service life.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• To create such a heater, you do not need any special equipment or a special tool.

polyurethane foam

This material occupies a leading position in the table of environmental safety, and therefore it can be safely bought.

Important! This material shows excellent adhesion, and therefore can be used with absolutely any materials.

Characteristic properties of polyurethane foam:

• not susceptible to moisture;
• high level of sound insulation;
• practically incombustible.

Stages of attic insulation

In order for the insulation to serve for a long time and there are no problems with it, it is necessary to strictly observe the technology. This is the only way to be sure of the quality of the insulation.

Attic preparation

The first stage is the preparation of the attic.

And first of all, it is necessary to put things in order in it, by this we mean:

• cleaning of all unnecessary items;
• all wooden parts should be pre-treated with a special compound that protects the material from decay, as well as from the formation of fungus;
• if there are metal surfaces, then they should be taken care of, or rather, treated with a special primer or anti-corrosion compound;
• old insulation, rags, and sawdust should be removed from all cracks.
• if cracks are found in the attic, then they need to be sealed with mounting foam.

The second stage - waterproofing

When insulating the mountain, this stage is one of the most important, since many materials do not tolerate moisture well and may even lose their original characteristics. That is why it is necessary to take care of the good. Also, waterproofing helps to avoid the appearance of corrosion on metal floors.

The third stage - laying insulation

Depending on the chosen insulation, we begin to evenly distribute it over the floor, as well as the walls and ceiling, unless, of course, it is expanded clay or sawdust.

It is important to ensure that all layers are the same, and there is no gap between the heaters. At this stage, you need to be as careful as possible.

Fourth stage - vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is a prerequisite, both for and for reinforced concrete. It must be laid directly on the ceiling, only in this way can it protect the insulation from the resulting vapors that can accumulate in the heat insulator, passing through the ceiling.

Fifth stage - counter-lattice

After the previous stages have been completed, you can begin to complete the wall (roof) decoration. To do this, you can use various materials: lining, drywall or plywood.

The sixth stage - insulation of engineering communications

To do this, you can purchase mineral wool and wrap it around the pipes, and then wrap everything with roofing felt and secure it with wire. This is the easiest way to insulate communications.

As you can see, there are no special difficulties in warming the attic. The main thing is to carefully follow the instructions and do everything consistently, and then you will be able to do this procedure no worse than professionals.

After all, now you can independently choose the most suitable material as a heater.