Lead battery with your own hands. The most effective way to restore the battery Do-it-yourself powerful batteries for the home

Greetings friends. Today I will tell you about the most effective way to restore capacity in lead-acid batteries.
During the period of even the most correct operation, the battery loses its capacity every day. And at one fine moment, its charge is not enough to start the car engine. This example is aggravated with the advent of cold weather.

Naturally, the motorist puts the battery on charge and after a while sees that the battery is not charging, and the voltage during charging is normal - 14.4-14.7 V or higher (12.6 without a charger).

Then, if there is a load plug, the check is performed by it and it turns out that under load, the voltage drops a lot. Everything points to a loss of battery capacity. The reason for this is the sulfation of the plates.

Usually, with proper operation, this happens after about 5 years. This is a very good indicator. And there is a way out - buy a new battery. But, if you want to save money (since batteries aren't cheap these days), and extend battery life by a couple more years, then maintenance is a must. And not simple, but special, which can reanimate the battery.

What kind of batteries can be recovered?

This method is suitable for batteries that have not been subjected to serious current or mechanical damage during their operation. And they became unusable as a result of temporary, natural sulfation.
This method is not suitable for batteries that have internal shedding of plates, internal shorting of cans, swelling or other mechanical damage.
The method is excellent for desulfation of the plates and is popularly called the "polarity reversal" method of the battery.
I will divide battery recovery into three steps.

Battery recovery process

Stage one: preparation

The first thing that is not necessary, but you need to do is to clean the surface of the battery from any contaminants. Wash the entire surface with detergent.
Next, visually make sure that there are no damages on the case, that there are no swellings and bulges on the sides.
Second, open all the corks of the jars and make sure that there is electrolyte. If it is not in one of the cans, then you need to make sure that there are no cracks on the body.
Then, using a flashlight, inspect the plates inside - there should be no shedding. Here, just for one thing, you can clearly see sulfation - a white coating on the plates.

If everything is in order, add distilled water to each jar to the level. It will not be superfluous to measure the density of the electrolyte in each compartment.

Stage two: the classic recovery method

Before moving on to reversing the battery, it is necessary to test the usual recovery method, which has already become a classic.
Step one: We charge the battery to a full charge of 14.4 V.

Step two: with a halogen bulb or other load, we discharge the battery to 10.6 V (voltage is measured under the same load).

We repeat the cycle of these two steps 3 times and charge the battery to full. We check the capacity with a load fork or a starter in the operation of the machine. If the battery has recovered - good - we continue to operate. If not, or not enough, then go to the third stage.

Stage three: battery polarity reversal

This battery recovery method is the most effective of all. And reanimates the battery in almost 90% of cases.
Step one: we hang a load on the battery in the form of a halogen lamp, and discharge the battery to zero. The lamp will go out in about a day (it all depends on the initial battery capacity). We leave the battery with the lamp connected for another 2-3 days in order to finally discharge the remnants.
Step two: reverse charging the battery. We connect the charger in reverse: plus to minus, and minus to plus. In order not to spoil your charger (or so that the short circuit protection does not work), we connect the same halogen lamp in series with the batteries. And charge the battery in reverse polarity. After the voltage has risen to 5-6 volts, the lamp can be excluded from the circuit. It is desirable to set the charge current to 5 percent of the battery capacity. That is, if the capacity is 60 ampere-hours, then the charge current in the opposite direction is set to 3 amperes. At this time, all electrolyte jars begin to actively boil and hiss - this is normal, since the reverse process is underway.

We charge for about a day, until a voltage of 12-14 V appears. As a result, you have a fully charged battery, in which the plus output is minus, and the minus is plus.

Step three: again completely discharge the battery with a halogen lamp for a couple of days. Then we make the correct charging plus to plus, minus to minus. We charge to the full up to 14.4 V.
This completes all steps.

Battery recovery result

Usually the result helps to increase the battery capacity to 70-100% of the factory capacity, of course there are exceptions.
Specifically, in my case, it was possible to increase the capacity by 95% - which is an excellent result. The white sulphate coating disappeared from the plates, and they turned black like a new battery. The electrolyte became more transparent and pure.

Battery Recovery Video

I recommend that you watch a video where a completely "dead" battery is restored, which is about 10 years old.
At first, there is a “buildup” with a change in the polarity of the power supply, and almost at the very end, a full polarity reversal cycle has already been given.

There are many ideas on the Internet on how to make a battery from improvised means. All of them, in principle, can only be experimental-cognitive in nature. Every lover of homemade products will be interested in making a battery from improvised means.

The simplest battery from soda

Consider how to make a simple battery with your own hands. As a body, we will use a small plastic container with a lid. The main ingredients are baking soda and water.

Water is poured into the container, and 1.5 tsp is added. soda. The resulting solution must be mixed. We make two ends of the cleaned welding electrodes. The length of each of them should not exceed 7 cm.

The ends of each piece must be bent, and two holes must be made in the lid of the container. We insert elements with curved ends into the lid, and cover the container. There are many do-it-yourself battery photos on the Internet, but this is the simplest view.

We take a conventional charger and connect it to the ends of the battery. We do a test charge for 10 minutes, and measure the voltage. It will not exceed 2.5 V, and if you charge the battery for 3 hours, then its power will be enough to operate the LED for no more than 20 minutes. The tightness of the container is not permissible, otherwise the battery will begin to swell.

Battery made of copper and zinc

You can use another scheme for assembling batteries with your own hands. Let's make it from a copper wire (plates), and galvanized plates.

How to assemble

First, prepare the wire, and remove the insulation from it. Twist it into a tight spiral to increase the area. It is necessary to cut several galvanized plates of the same size. Let's prepare several insulated conductors, so that later we can connect the network with them.

Salt water or vinegar is suitable as a conductive liquid solution. You will also need a few disposable cups.

We roll the galvanized plates into a cylinder, and bend the end in order to fix the conductor there. As a cushioning material, we will use a plastic plate that can be cut from a bottle. We place it between the copper and zinc elements.

Next, the process of assembling the battery begins. As a result, we get a serial chain, from several cups. If you fill the elements with saline, then the output can be up to 7 V. Using an acid-type solution, such as vinegar, will give an output of up to 8 V.

The most effective result will come from an alkaline solution. In the field, it is found in ash. Then, the voltage will be equal to 9.6 V. By adding such elements to the serial network, you can get the right voltage level to charge the phone.

Simple gas battery

Consider step-by-step instructions on how to make a gas-type battery with your own hands. The battery is simple in design, so anyone can make it.

Battery design elements

You will need the following components:

Container with a lid;
The rod is coal;
activated carbon;
Saline solution (15%);
Terminal block with stopper;
Activated charcoal bags.

These are the elements from which you can make a simple battery. The prepared container should not let light through, otherwise the battery will quickly run out. An electrolyte solution made from edible salt is poured into it.

Electrodes consisting of carbon rods are also lowered there. Around each electrode is placed activated carbon in a bag.

Each bag must be pressed well against the electrode with threads. There should be enough activated carbon in the bag so that the layer between the electrode and the bag is 1.5 cm.

IMPORTANT! To improve battery performance, 1 g of boric acid is added to 1 liter of electrolyte solution, and no more than 2 g of sugar.

Such a battery is charged up to 12 hours, and 4.5 V DC is allocated to each bank. When gases begin to be intensively released, this means that charging is over.

The cork should not be closed during the charging process, because the gases released can splash out the electrolyte solution from the cans. For quality work, it should be changed once a week.

Caring for a homemade battery

You can give some useful tips for maintaining homemade batteries:

Do not use containers with transparent walls.
Any battery needs distilled water, it is unacceptable to use another type of water, it has an increased mineralization.
To make the correct 15% salt electrolyte solution, you need to dissolve 5 tbsp. salt in 1 liter of water.

The resulting design is quite efficient. The only negative is the strong self-discharge, and high internal resistance.

DIY battery photo

Recently, all low-cost radio-controlled models began to be equipped with Ni-Cd batteries (nickel-cadmium batteries), or rather assemblies of these batteries. Batteries of this type have a low market value, and there are a number of reasons for this.

Relatively simple and cheap manufacturing technology

Have a memory effect

Small number of reloads

Small specific capacity

Sooner or later, your favorite toy stops turning on, the battery becomes unusable, and the question arises where to find a new one. But where to find the right size, and most importantly with the same type of battery connector ?!

You don't have to look for anything if you have a soldering iron, a couple of wires, a heat shrink tube, and 30 minutes of free time.

So, let's say you have a toy powered by a Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd rechargeable battery at 7.2 V, with a capacity of 400 ma / h. Naturally, we want not only to bring the toy back to life, but also to extend the playing time on a single charge. Therefore, we will increase the capacity of new batteries several times!

Turning the old battery in your hands and cutting its shell, you can easily make sure that it is assembled from ordinary AA class AA batteries using the serial connection method.

Therefore, we need, in our example, this is:

6 x AA Ni-Mh batteries, each battery 1.2V, respectively to obtain 7.2V = 1.2V * 6 , Same Capacity!

· Heat-shrink tubing

Soldering equipment: soldering iron, flux, solder

Needle file/skin

Copper stranded wire approx.

You may have noticed that the batteries in the old battery are not connected by soldering. And this was not done in vain, because with strong heating, the battery can be damaged, but, as they say, "everything is good in moderation." We will connect the batteries by soldering, but using a certain technology.

In order for the solder to quickly “stick” to the contact surface of the battery, we first clean the surface with a needle file. When processing with a needle file, bumps and scratches are also created that will create conditions for reliable contact.

Personally, I use ordinary rosin or soldering fat as a flux, and ordinary tin-lead solder, soldering iron temperature 450 degrees.

Let's tin the contact pad. If the solder does not “stick”, you should not heat the battery pad for a long time, this can lead to its failure. In this case, add flux and solder and try again.

I do not advise using wires with insulation to connect the battery, because they will greatly change the size of the battery, in some cases this is a very important factor. Therefore, I usually remove the insulation and use the method of tinning the bare wire to make a kind of flat connecting plates.

Since we tinned the contact pads of the battery in advance, it will not be difficult for us to solder the connecting plate.

We connect the battery in series, that is, "+ " one battery is connected to "- " another, and so on. The positive contact of the first and the negative contact of the latter, respectively, will give a total output voltage of 7.2 Volts.

Having connected all the necessary wires, including the charging connector, we put the assembly into a heat shrink tube and heat it (you can use a regular hair dryer).

Let's summarize. You were the owner of a weak battery with a supply voltage of 7.2V, a capacity of 400ma / h, which was based on 6 Ni-Cd batteries. Taking a connector from an old "dead" battery and doing all the work described above, we got: a battery with a capacity of 1800 ma / h, a supply voltage of 7.2 volts, Ni-Mh without a memory effect.

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Pour water into a vitamin jar, pour 1.5 teaspoons of baking soda into it. Mix the solution well. We clean the welding electrode from the coating. We cut off two pieces of 7 cm from the electrode. We bend the ends of these blanks. We insert these blanks into the holes in the lid and twist it into a bottle.

We connect the charger to the ends of the battery. We charge the battery for 10 minutes and check the operation of a homemade battery. Estimated output voltage is 1.5-2.5 volts. This power is enough when charging for 3 hours for 20 minutes of LED glow. To prevent your battery from swelling, do not make it airtight.

Another way to make a homemade battery

Homemade battery from improvised materials with a minimum of tools. Imagine a situation where there are no necessary details nearby, or rather, there is a minimum, but you are in the field, when there is no variety. We will have to experimentally artificially limit ourselves to the choice of materials.

Let us take, for lack of copper in the plates, copper wire. We will remove the insulation with the help of fire. We cut a piece of galvanized iron into identical plates. Wires with insulation for connecting the circuit. You can immediately take a conductive wire without insulation. You also need to find a plastic bottle, any dielectric will do. Conductive liquid solution (hydrochloric or acidic, alkaline). Disposable cups.

To begin with, we twist the wire annealed on fire to increase the area into a cylinder. We cut identical plates from galvanization according to the template and turn them into cylinders (we bend the corner to clamp the contact wire in it).

From a plastic bottle we cut the gasket material, which will be located between copper and galvanization. We assemble the battery cells, fix one end of the wire on the thread, the other on zinc and two single ones. One with copper is positive and one with zinc is negative.

We collect the battery in a series circuit. To begin with, let's try to fill in a solution saturated with salt. In the field, any saline solution, urine, and more will do. Voltage 7.74 volts. Let's replace the saline solution with an acid one; table vinegar was used in the experiment. In the field, sour wine, sorrel infusion, cranberry juice and more are suitable for our battery. Voltage 8.05 volts.

Let's replace it with an alkaline solution, you can try to replace baking soda in nature with ash placed in water (lye), but you need to experiment to check. Voltage 9.65 volts.

So let's summarize: on average, out of 10 elements we get 8 volts, one cup is equal to 1.25 volts. To reduce the voltage for charging the phone (5.5 volts), we remove two cups, the procedure takes 20 seconds. Or increase to 4.5 volts by adding 5 cups. So you can make a battery when there is no way to buy it, with your own hands.

How to make a battery with your own hands?
In this video tutorial, we will show you how to make a battery with your own hands. To make it, we need a small container with a lid, soda, water, charger.

In this article, the master DIYer will guide us through all the steps of battery assembly, from material selection to final assembly. RC toys, laptop batteries, medical devices, electric bikes, and even electric cars all use 18650 batteries.

18650 battery (18*65mm) is the size of Li-ion battery. For comparison, conventional AA batteries have a size of 14 * 50 mm. Specifically, the author did this assembly to replace the lead-acid battery in a homemade product he had made earlier.

Tools and materials:
– 18650 batteries,
– BMS (Battery Management System),
– Nickel strip,
– Battery level indicator,
-Switch,
- Connector,
– 18650 battery holder,
- 3M x 10mm screws,
- Spot welding machine,
-3D printer,
- Stripper (tool for stripping insulation),
-Fen,
-Multimeter,
- Charger for lithium-ion batteries,
-Protective glasses,
- Dielectric gloves,

Some tools can be replaced with more affordable ones.

Step One: Choosing Batteries
The first step is to choose the right batteries. There are different batteries on the market from $ 1 to $ 10. According to the author, the best batteries are from Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo and LG. At a price they are more expensive than others, but have proven themselves to be of good quality and performance.
The author does not advise buying batteries with the names Ultrafire, Surefire and Trustfire. These are batteries that did not pass the quality control at the factory and were bought at a bargain price and repackaged under a new name. As a rule, such batteries do not have the declared capacity and there is a risk of fire during charge-discharge.
For his homemade craftsman used Panasonic batteries with a capacity of 3400 mAh.

Step Five: Battery Calculation
For the project, the craftsman needs a battery with a voltage of 11.1 V and a capacity of 17000 mAh.
The capacity of the 18650 battery is 3400mAh. With a parallel connection of five batteries, we get a capacity equal to 17000 mAh. Such a compound is designated P, in this case 5P

One battery has a voltage of 3.7 V. To get 11.1 V, you need to connect three batteries in series. Designation S, in this case 3S.

So, to obtain the desired parameters, you need to connect three sections, each consisting of five batteries connected in parallel, in series. 3S5P package.

Sets the second cell on top.

Step Seven: Welding
Cuts four nickel strips, for parallel connection, with a margin of 10 mm. Cuts ten strips for serial connection.

Lays a long strip on the + contacts of the first (it will remain the first when turned over) parallel 5P cell. Welds the strip. Welds the strips with one end to the + third of the cell and the other to - the second. Welds a long strip to the + third of the cell (over the plates). Flips the block. It welds the plates from the reverse side, given that now we connect the third in parallel, and the first and second sections in parallel-series (given that it was turned over).

Step Eight: BMS (Battery Management System)
First, let's understand a little what BMS is.
BMS (Battery Management System) is an electronic board that is placed on the battery in order to control the process of charging / discharging it, monitoring the condition of the battery and its elements, controlling temperature, the number of charge / discharge cycles, and protecting the battery components. The control and balancing system provides individual control of the voltage and resistance of each battery element, distributes currents between the battery components during the charging process, controls the discharge current, determines the loss of capacity due to imbalance, and ensures safe connection / disconnection of the load.

Based on the received data, the BMS performs cell charge balancing, protects the battery from short circuit, overcurrent, overcharge, overdischarge (high and excessively low voltage of each cell), overheating and hypothermia. The functionality of BMS allows not only to improve the operating mode of batteries, but also to maximize their service life.

Important parameters of the board are the number of cells in a row, in this case 3S, and the maximum discharge current, in this case 25 A. For this project, the master used board with the following parameters:
Model: HX-3S-FL25A-A
Overvoltage range: 4.25

4.35V±0.05V
Discharge voltage range: 2.3

3.0V±0.05V
Maximum operating current: 0

25 A
Working temperature: -40℃

50 ℃
Solder the board to the ends of the battery according to the diagram.

How to assemble a battery with your own hands (subtleties and tips)
In this article, the master DIYer will guide us through all the steps of battery assembly, from material selection to final assembly. radio controlled toys, laptop batteries, medical devices,

How to make a battery

A battery is an energy storage device that usually works on the principle of reversibility of a chemical reaction. The simplest battery is arranged simply, for the first time his idea was tested in practice by Ritter in 1803, it was a column of 50 copper plates laid with a damp dense cloth.

Homemade plate pack

How to make a battery with your own hands? Collect from copper plates? There are simpler methods for creating an energy storage device from improvised means. You can make both an acid homemade battery and an alkaline type device.

Acid and lead

The most simple in the device is a lead-acid design for the accumulation of electricity. To build it you need:

stable container, with the possibility of its tight closure with a lid,
electrolyte - a solution of battery acid and distilled water,
lead plate - you can use a flattened piece of lead from cable insulation or purchased at a hunting or fishing store,
two metal pins - electrodes that must be driven vertically into lead plates.

Next, we present the manufacturing process of this device. Lead plates are put on metal pins, with a small distance between them. After that, the structure is immersed in a container filled with electrolyte. Lead must be completely under the solution. The contact ends of the pins are passed through the lid of the container and securely fixed on it. An electrical consumer can be connected to the ends of the electrodes. The container is installed on a stable surface, after which the device is charged. By complicating the design, rolling the lead plates into a roll and, accordingly, increasing their area, with a small volume, good performance of such a device can be achieved. According to the same principle, rolls are made in modern gel energy storage devices.

Plates prepared for immersion in a jar

Important! When working with homemade electric drives, follow the safety rules: the acid used in the electrolyte is a rather aggressive substance.

Salt, coal and graphite

This device does not need an acid, as an alkaline reaction is used. How to make this type of battery? The basis of this type of energy storage device is a container with an electrolyte in the form of a solution of water and sodium chloride - table salt. To create it, you need:

graphite rods, with a metal cap for soldering the contact,
activated or charcoal, crushed into crumbs,
fabric bags for placing coal powder,
container for electrolyte with a tight lid for fixing the ends of the electrode.

A graphite rod in a dense carbon lining serves as electrodes. Graphite can be used from worn-out batteries, and charcoal - charcoal or activated, from gas mask filters. To create a tight lining, coal can be placed in a permeable bag, after which a graphite rod is inserted inside, and the fabric of the bag is wrapped with a thread or wire with an insulating coating.

To increase the performance of this kind of design, you can create a battery of several electrodes placed in one container.

Important! The storage capacity and voltage at the contacts of home-made devices for storing electricity are relatively small, but at the same time they are quite enough to connect a low-power light source or other purposes. A battery of several electrodes has higher performance, but they are more bulky.

Lemons and oranges as a container for electricity

Lemon is not only a tasty and healthy fruit, but also a natural battery. To use it, it is enough to combine several lemons in a serial circuit, using metal electrodes. After that, you can connect the "fruit" drive to the charger. Instead of lemons, you can use other citrus fruits that contain acid, which will serve as a natural electrolyte. The more citrus fruits are involved, the higher the parameters of the "natural" battery.

Lemon juice, acid or its solution can be used separately. To do this, just pour them into a small jar and install a copper and steel electrode there. The voltage of the natural energy storage device is small, but, nevertheless, it will be enough for a low-power lighting source.

Even in the absence of a factory-made energy storage device, you can easily make a battery with your own hands. To create it, you only need knowledge of the basics of physics and chemistry, as well as the presence of an acid or alkali of any type at hand. Almost any metal that is available can be used as electrodes, but the best option is to use steels with a high iron content, as well as copper and its alloys.

How to make a battery
How to make a battery: acid and lead. Salt, coal and graphite: making a battery at home. Lemons and oranges as a container for electricity. Batteries with their own hands from improvised means.

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SIMPLE GAS BATTERY
(Manufacturing technology and testing)

Of course, now there are no problems with buying batteries and accumulators, but, apparently, it will be interesting for you to get acquainted with the design of a gas accumulator. It is so simple that anyone can repeat it (see diagram).

The device of the simplest gas accumulator:

1. Capacity
2. Lid
3. Carbon rod
4. Activated carbon
5. Salt solution (15%)
6. Activated charcoal bag
7. Terminal (clamp)
8. Cork

The design of the battery is clear from the figure. An opaque container (1) with a lid (2) is filled with electrolyte - 15% common salt solution.

Two identical electrodes are lowered into the container. The electrode consists of a carbon rod surrounded by a bag (6) with activated carbon (4). The bags must be tightly wrapped with thread to ensure good contact of the electrode with activated carbon. The thickness of the activated carbon layer should not exceed 15 mm.

If you add 1 g of boric acid and 2 g of sugar to the solution for each liter, then battery performance will improve. Sugar is added during long discharge cycles.

The battery is charged with direct current at the rate of 4.5 volts for each element (jar). Charging time - up to 12 hours. Full charge signal - copious gas emission. In order for the gases not to “squeeze out” the electrolyte from the container, a plug is provided, which must be opened during charging. To get a capacity of 1a * h, you need to use 65 g of activated carbon. Electrolyte change - once a week.

● If the walls of the vessel will let light through, the battery will be quickly discharged. The outside of the container can be painted.
● It is better to use distilled water or to melt the snow, because. tap water is highly mineralized, which is bad.
● 15% common salt solution is obtained by diluting 5 tablespoons of salt in one liter of water.

The battery described in the above article is really so simple and consists of, literally, foot components that one involuntarily takes doubt: will it work? So before embossing the article in the group, my hands itched to test it in work.

In essence, this is a fuel cell that runs on hydrogen, which, along with oxygen, is stored in the porous volume of coal during electrolysis during charging. The release of gases at the end of charging indicates a supersaturation of coal with gases.

I did not buy anything special, everything was found at home. I dug out carbon rods from a pair of AA batteries (zinc saved for the future).

Activated charcoal is not for sale in the forest, but wood charcoal is easy to get. It became interesting whether it would work with him, so I used charcoal for barbecues. Selected, checking the conductivity with a tester, mentioned in the article 65 grams. Then I ground it, as finely as I could bear, in a mortar. In the photo in the glass it turned out to about the word "Sour cream"!

From a piece of an old T-shirt, I sewed a couple of bags and stuffed them with charcoal. This is the longest and dirtiest process. He poured it through a funnel rolled out of paper, then rammed it, with his finger, of course. At the end I stuck coal rods and wrapped everything with thread.

The electrodes turned out to be quite plump, weighing 36 g each, about 35 mm in diameter, and about 75 mm long.

I soldered the wires, put them in a glass, just in case, fenced them off with a wooden chip separator. I filled it with brine and let it soak for about an hour.

Charged from a Chinese low-power power supply with adjustable voltage. I set the voltage to 4.7 V. For the first hour, the ammeter needle fluctuated between 200 and 250 mA, the voltage settled at 2.2 V. Over the next three hours, the current dropped from 200 mA to 195 mA, the voltage increased to 2.58 V. I did not wait the appearance of bubbles, as the time was later.

After turning off the charger, the voltage on the bank quickly dropped to 1.54 V. The short circuit current surprised me - as much as 0.29 A! I noticed that at idle the voltage drops very slowly, about one hundredth of a volt in five minutes. In a junk box, I dug out a 3.5 V flashlight bulb and loaded the battery with it. In four minutes at a discharge current of 140 mA, the voltage dropped to 0.885 V under load. After he opened the circuit, the voltage quickly rose to 1.37 V. It is clear that due to the significant internal resistance, the battery is not able to deliver high current for a long time, although it has a decent capacity.

It remains to check for self-discharge, because it shows frightening rates. I disconnected everything from the battery and left it overnight. Everything turned out not so scary. I expected that in seven hours the voltage would drop to half a volt, or even be completely discharged. But in the morning the voltmeter cheerfully showed 1.166 V, short circuit current. - 0.21 A, and I realized that everything is not so bad here either. You can keep playing.

So, the resulting battery is surprisingly efficient and shows good results. It can be used as a storage device, for example, for a wind generator. With proper care, of course. To begin with, it is worth working on such shortcomings as a significant self-discharge and high internal resistance, due to which a slightly overestimated charging voltage is required, which is important when charging from alternative energy sources, and it is impossible to power a more or less powerful load.

I see solutions like this:

● Insulate with varnish and lift the metal parts of the electrodes above the electrolyte in order to exclude current short circuit through the electrolyte.
● It is quite possible that this is not self-discharge at all, but some kind of potential equalization processes, because the technique is rough and uncouth.
● Use carbon rods with as much surface area as possible for better contact with the active mass. At the same time, maintain the thickness of the coal layer recommended in the article of 15 mm, or even make it less.
● Carefully select (according to the minimum ohmic resistance) and grind charcoal. A mortar is not the most convenient tool for this!
● Try recommended electrolyte additives - sugar, boric acid.
● Come and smoke this issue in the literature and thematic forums!

In general, I am satisfied with the test results and, perhaps, I will return to this topic more than once.

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SIMPLE GAS BATTERY (Manufacturing technology and testing) Of course, now there are no problems with buying batteries and accumulators, but apparently you