What is the best place to plant seedlings. When is the best time to plant seedlings? How to prevent blackleg vegetable seedling disease

In our garden, we strive to grow as many tasty and healthy vegetables as possible. First you need to grow seedlings, then plant them in the ground and when caring for the plants we get a crop, and how good it will be depends on whether you did everything right. Each stage in the cultivation of vegetable crops is important, from the date of sowing to planting seedlings in the ground. This article is about describing the last stage - transplanting grown seedlings into beds. It depends on how correctly and painlessly the planting will take place for the plants, how quickly they will take root and grow in a new place.

A transplant for any plant is a trauma, as the root system is damaged and environmental conditions change dramatically. In order for the process of planting seedlings in the ground to be successful, it is necessary to prepare the plants and follow a few rules when planting seedlings.

Preparing seedlings for planting is to harden the plants, it is necessary that they get used to the outdoor atmosphere. If you move tender seedlings from greenhouse home conditions to the street, they will fade in half an hour, and after transplanting such a lifeless type of plant into the ground, they will get sick for a long time, and some will not take root at all. Hardening seedlings begin to do two weeks before planting. Seedlings in boxes or in cups are put out on the street or on the balcony, on the first day for an hour, protecting them from the sun. Then the time spent by plants in the open air is increased every day to a full day. Two days before planting, the seedlings are not watered, and immediately before the plants are removed from the containers, boxes and cups are watered abundantly.

It depends on how easily the plants survive planting in open ground for a permanent place in which container you grew seedlings. When growing seedlings at home, plants have to be transplanted several times; after germination, the grown seedlings dive from the seed box into separate cups or into seedling boxes, placing them at a certain distance. Plants in cups will take up more space on the windowsill, but the root system is easily removed from them without destroying the earthy coma, and the plants can also be arranged so that they do not stretch when they grow. In boxes, seedlings are placed compactly and it is convenient to water them, but this is where the advantages of growing seedlings in boxes end. Even if plants dive into boxes freely, their roots in the ground are intertwined and they are inevitably injured during transplantation. After planting the plants in the ground, they must restore the root system, get sick, and only then will they grow. Seedlings planted from cups by transshipment, after planting, quickly adapt to new conditions and begin to grow.

A clod of earth with roots can be quickly removed from the cups if they are watered abundantly beforehand. There are cups with a removable bottom, squeezing it out from below, a clod of earth easily comes out of the container. Cups with soft walls should be kneaded on the sides, then put on their side or tilted and the plant with a clod of earth removed.

Quickly and without the slightest damage, seedlings are planted from peat cups, as the plants are buried with them in the soil, the walls of the peat cup easily dissolve in the ground and roots grow through them. The downside of this container is only the price and one-time use.

Seedlings are removed from the box with a scoop, if the roots of the plants are strongly intertwined, you can lower them into the water, washing off the ground, unravel, divide and then immediately plant them in the ground until the roots dry out. When planting seedlings from a box into the ground, you need to act quickly and carefully so that the open root system of the plants does not have time to dry out, and for this you need to prepare beds with holes in advance and shed them.

Planting seedlings in the ground.

Ridges for planting seedlings are prepared in advance. For a couple of weeks, the soil is dug up, at the same time introducing a complex fertilizer for digging or embedding it in the soil with loosening. After forming the ridges, mark holes in them to determine how many plants will be needed for planting. Immediately before planting, the wells are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate or liquid fertilizer, wood ash, poison from soil pests, humus or other fertilizer are added.

All gardeners try to grow as many vegetables as possible on their plot, but in the race for the harvest, you should not place the plants in the garden tightly to each other. For each crop and variety, there are certain planting rates at a given distance, which the seed manufacturer indicates on the back of the package. If there is no such information, then plant seedlings according to standard schemes that have long been determined empirically.

Tall tomatoes are staggered at a distance of 50 x 50 cm or 40 x 60 cm, medium-sized varieties are planted at a distance of 40 cm in a row, making rows every 50 cm.

Peppers and eggplants can be planted up to 5-6 pieces per 1 sq.m., for this, plants are placed in a row every 25-30 cm, and 50-60 cm are left in the aisle.

Cabbage is planted according to the scheme 40 x 40 or 50 x 50, depending on the variety and size of the future head of cabbage.

Seedlings of cucumbers in a row are planted after 20-35 cm, and the rows are made after 70-90 cm.

Zucchini and squash in the hole place no more than 3 plants.

If you do not maintain the recommended distances in the beds, in dense plantings the plants will not receive enough light and nutrition, they will oppress each other, their development will lag behind the norm, and the yield will decrease significantly. In addition, densely growing plants are poorly ventilated, in such an atmosphere fungal spores multiply and spread well, which contributes to the emergence of dangerous fungal diseases, such as phytophthora.

Planting seedlings for each vegetable crop is carried out individually, depending on the characteristics of each species. Many tomato seedlings outgrow by the time of planting, long stems are not stable, deep planting will help fix this problem. An earthen ball with roots and part of the stem is placed in a deep hole and covered with earth to the desired height. The lower part of the stem of tomatoes in the ground has the ability to form additional roots, which will only enhance the development of plants in the future.

Cabbage seedlings also like deep planting, you just need to make sure that the growth point in the center of the rosette of leaves is not sprinkled with earth.

Not all plants tolerate deep planting, for example, peppers and eggplants cannot be buried during transplantation. In the hole, it is necessary to place only a clod of earth with roots and cover it with earth to the same level at which the plant was in a pot. A pepper or eggplant stem sprinkled with earth can rot, then the plant will get sick, stun and even die.

If the holes were not watered before planting, then the ridges with planted seedlings are watered from above, and after the moisture is absorbed and the earth settles, the surface is mulched with humus, peat, or simply dry soil.

Terms of planting seedlings in the ground depend not only on the climate in each region, but also on the cold-resistant qualities of the plant.

Heat-loving vegetable plants - tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini will grow only at a temperature of at least +18 degrees during the day and at least +12 degrees at night, and with a short-term cooling down to +1 ... +3 degrees, these plants can suffer and die. Seedlings of heat-loving vegetables are planted in open ground in late May - early summer, when the threat of return frosts has passed and constantly warm weather is established. Earlier, for 10-20 days, seedlings of heat-loving vegetables can only be planted under a film shelter or in a greenhouse.

Cold-resistant plants grow well at a temperature of +15 ... +12 degrees during the day and can tolerate short-term cooling down to +1 degree. To get an early harvest in early May, seedlings of white cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli, as well as celery, leaf lettuce and vegetable physalis are planted.

When and at what time to plant seeds for seedlings.

Very useful information for amateur gardeners. Perhaps someone does not know when and what to plant seedlings then check out this information. You still have time to plant something.

It is not difficult to calculate the timing of sowing vegetable seeds for seedlings.
If you want to get the first harvest by a certain date, you must also take into account the duration of the plant's vegetation from planting to the first fruits (usually it is indicated on a bag of seeds).

For example, in early varieties and hybrids of tomato, the growing season to the first fruits is about 100 days. The optimal age of seedlings for planting in a permanent place is 45-50 days. The average time from sowing to germination is 7-8 days. The optimal time for planting prepared seedlings in a greenhouse is around June 1. Thus, in order to get the first crop of lettuce tomatoes by July 20, you need to start sowing seeds 100 days before this date, plus a week from sowing to germination and about five days to adapt the seedlings after planting. Approximate sowing date is April 1-8.
Approximate sowing dates for seedlings of the main vegetable crops for central Russia:

Celery. Landing - 25 May. The age of seedlings is 70-80 days, from sowing to germination - up to 15 days. Sowing - after February 25.

Bell pepper. Landing in the greenhouse - June 5th. Seedling age - up to 70 days, from sowing to germination - 12-14 days. Sowing - after March 10.

Early white cabbage. Landing - after May 20. Seedling age - up to 50 days, from sowing to germination - 5 days. Sowing - 15 March.

Cauliflower and broccoli are sown along with early white cabbage.

Black onion and leek. Landing - in mid-May. Seedling age - up to 50 days. Sowing - after March 15.

Eggplant. Landing in the greenhouse - June 5th. Seedling age - up to 50 days, from sowing to germination - 12 days. Sowing - April 1.

Cucumber. Planting in a greenhouse without technical heating - after May 25. Seedling age - 25-27 days, from sowing to germination - 3 days. Sowing - not earlier than April 25.

Lettuce head. Landing - 10 June. Seedling age - up to 40 days, from sowing to germination - 4 days. Sowing - after April 25.

Mid-season white cabbage. Landing - after early white cabbage. Seedling age - up to 40 days. Sowing - at the end of April.

Pumpkin, zucchini, squash. Landing - 10 June. Seedling age - 25-27 days, from sowing to germination - 4 days. Sowing - after May 10.
Recommendations are given for the Central region of the Russian Federation. The timing of planting seedlings in the ground depends on the actual weather conditions and may require changes.
FLOWERS:

PETUNIA:
A favorite of many gardeners, long-blooming and abundantly blooming petunia (Petunia) is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and endurance. And a huge number of varieties of various colors allows you to choose plants for any garden or balcony composition.
Petunias are sown in late February - early March. The seeds are very small, and sowing is carried out exclusively on the surface of the soil, in no case burying the seeds. Seedlings usually appear together, after 10-14 days (if the seeds are of high quality). The grown seedlings dive into separate pots. In general, petunia seedlings develop better if they are transplanted 2-3 times during the growth period, gradually increasing the volume of the planting capacity. In mid-May, seedlings can be planted in flower beds or containers. By this time, her buds are usually already formed, and some varieties even have time to bloom.

LOBELIA:
A charming plant, appropriate in almost any garden composition. When Lobelia (Lobelia erinus) blooms, its foliage is not visible among the many small flowers of amazingly pure, bright colors.
Lobelia is sown in late February - early March in seedling boxes on the soil surface. The crops are slightly rolled, without covering the seeds with soil, and moistened abundantly with a spray bottle. Seedlings appear in about 2 weeks. Seedlings dive and place in a bright, well-ventilated place, and from mid-May they are planted in the ground or in containers.

CLOVE SHABO:
Without seedlings in the conditions of the Middle Stripe, it will not be possible to admire the flowering of the Shabo carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus var. schabaud): it occurs 5-6 months after sowing. Therefore, February is the optimal time to start growing seedlings.

BEGONIA ETERNAL FLOWERING:
An amazing unpretentious plant that blooms from June to the very autumn cold. There are many options for placing it in the garden: begonia (Begonia semperflorens) can be grown as an ampelous plant or a flowering border, planted in containers for balconies and terraces and used in carpet plantings.
Seeds of ever flowering begonia germinate for a very long time, so they are sown in February. You need to sow on the surface of the soil, then lightly press to increase the area of \u200b\u200bcontact of the seed with the soil, and thoroughly moisten the soil. The optimum temperature for seed germination is +20 degrees. After 1.5 months, young plants dive into separate pots, and in early June they are planted in the ground.

SALVIA:
Heat-loving salvia (Salvia splendens) in the climate of our latitudes is grown as an annual. It comes from South America, where it is cultivated as a perennial plant. In our gardens, salvia, also known as sparkling or brilliant sage, is quite popular.
Salvia is sown in late February - early March, sprinkling with a thin layer of soil. They dive in phase 4-5 of this leaf, and in late May - early June (depending on climate and weather) they are planted in the ground, preferably in a sunny place.

VIOLA(VIOLET):
If you want Viola (Viola x wittrockiana) to bloom in the year of sowing, and bloom from the end of May until the snow, sow it for seedlings in February.
This popular plant probably needs no introduction. Let me just remind you that this biennial culture, very widely used by flower growers, is valued for its long flowering, an abundance of varieties of various colors and amazing unpretentiousness. Viola calmly tolerates a transplant even when flowering, grows well and can grow both in flower beds and in all kinds of containers.

And there is also such a plate, take a look additionally.

Tomatoes are a crop that must be germinated before planting in open ground, in a greenhouse or in a home flower pot. There are many options for obtaining high-quality seedlings, and each of them has its supporters. So, for example, seeds can be planted:

dry or pre-soaked (peeled);
hardened or not;
with various irrigation options;
with or without supplements.

Consider one of these options, simple, affordable and giving 100% results.

Buying seeds

This is currently not a problem. The main thing is to choose a variety that will take root well in your climatic conditions. It is also important to pay attention to the production date. It is optimal that the seeds were harvested in the previous harvest. Germination and other indicators are standardized by law.

Seed preparation

After you have selected high-quality seeds from the bag, they need to be prepared for planting. You can plant tomato seeds in dry form - this method has enough fans. Moreover, it is believed that hybrid varieties should not be soaked. But most gardeners still prefer to pre-soak the seeds.

You need to do the following:

disinfect - we stand for a day in 0.8% acetic acid, treat with 1% potassium permanganate solution for 20 minutes, rinse;
we start growth - we wash with hot (about 60 ° C) water for 30 minutes;
soak - put in warm (25 ° C) water for a day;
harden (this increases resistance to temperature extremes) - leave in the refrigerator for 24 hours, you can for two days.

Useful: there are special mixtures for disinfecting seeds, as well as compounds for watering seedlings, which include the necessary antiseptic impurities.

After that, we select the right amount of the best sprouted (pecked) seeds and plant them in the ground.

Priming

In stores, there are enough options for mixtures for vegetable crops, there are also specific soils for seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. You can also make your own soil mixture by mixing in equal proportions:

ordinary garden soil;
humus;
peat.

It is advisable to feed the soil with superphosphate, wood ash, and water with mineral fertilizers. The latter should be added in the following proportions:

potassium sulfate (contains sulfur, calcium, potassium, magnesium) 20 grams per 10 liters of water;
carbamide - 10 g / 10 l;
superphosphate - 30 g / 10 l.

Important: if you buy ready-made soil, these fertilizers and top dressings may already be included in its composition. Then you don't need to add anything.

Landing dates

The best is seedlings of tomatoes, which were planted 50-60 days before planting in open ground or in a greenhouse. So, for central Russia:

early varieties should be sown in mid-late February;
greenhouse - in the first week of March;
usual - in the last week of March.

But, of course, you need to navigate according to climatic conditions and the thermophilicity of the variety.

Planting seeds in the ground

For tomato seedlings, you can use a variety of containers. Most often, seeds are sown in a common container, for example, plastic or even cardboard boxes, purchased and home-made boxes. Later, the plants are planted - dive. But you can plant each seed in its own container, although this complicates care and slows down the development of the root system. The procedure is as follows:

We pour a layer of expanded clay into the box so that water does not stagnate.
Pour the soil 5–6 cm, tamp it a little, water it a little, loosen it.
We make grooves with a width and depth of 1–1.5 cm at a distance of about 5 cm from each other.
We spill the soil, and especially the grooves, with water or a nutrient mixture with a temperature of about 50 ° C.
We place the seeds at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other in the groove, slightly (!) Pressing them into the ground.
We fill the grooves from above with loose soil, slightly crush it, but not much.
Spray with water from a spray bottle. Everything should be slightly moistened, abundant watering is unacceptable.
We close the box on top with a film for a greenhouse, glass or just transparent polyethylene.
We put the container with future tomato seedlings in a place with sufficiently high illumination and a temperature of about 22–25 ° C.

What to do when shoots appear

After the shoots appear (hatch), and this should happen in 3–10 days, the top cover of the box must be removed and the plants moved to a cooler room. The optimum temperature is 17–20°C during the day and 15°C at night. Insolation must be very high. Then the "loops" of sprouts will very quickly unfold the first leaves - cotyledons, and later real leaves will appear.

Table of approximate dates for the emergence of seedlings from hatched seeds.

The strongest seedlings are those that appear on the 6-7th day at a temperature of 25 ° C. They must grow together. Those that are far behind can be immediately cut off, of course, if you have enough seedlings. Just do not "uproot" them, as this will disrupt the root system of other plants.

How to water and feed

After sowing the seeds, the first watering will take place somewhere on the 10th day. By this time, mass seedlings should appear and take shape well. For starters, 1 teaspoon of water per plant will be enough.

Further, until the first true leaves appear, watering is carried out approximately once every 5-6 days. The soil should be moist, but not wet. Otherwise, oxygen will not be supplied to the roots, and this will slow down their development or even cause decay. Before picking, somewhere in 2 days, tomato seedlings can be fed with mineral fertilizers and watered.

Important: picking is carried out when the soil is slightly dry. So the last watering before it needs to be done somewhere in 1-2 days.

picking

When the first two true leaves appear at the tomato seedlings (the lowest ones are false and are called cotyledons), you can and should carry out a pick - planting plants in individual pots. For this:

We take out the group with the earth from the box.
We carefully disassemble the clod of earth, separating one plant.
We pinch the main stem root (this can be omitted if the tomatoes grow on dry soil that will rarely be watered).
We transplant the plant into an individual container with a volume of about half a liter. The bottom of the pot should have holes for water to drain. We fill the container with soil about 2/3, make a hole in which we place a young tomato. At the same time, it is necessary to take it away from the group with a clod of earth, since the roots already have lateral processes - hairs that can be damaged by knocking down the earth.
We sprinkle the stem of the plant with earth somewhere in 1/2 or 2/3 from the root to the cotyledon.
Gently crush the ground around the seedling.
Water the plant sparingly.

Video - Tomato seedlings: from shoots to picks

What to do with seedlings from picking to planting in the ground

Plants need to be watered regularly, but the first watering after picking can be done no earlier than day 4. At first, tomatoes are irrigated about once a week, but as the seedling grows, the frequency of watering increases. It is necessary to pour enough water to soak the entire earthen lump. The next watering - only after the earth has dried. Before planting in the ground, the tomato will require daily watering. Water temperature - about 22 ° C, it is desirable to defend the water.
Plants need to be fed with nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers. It is better for beginner gardeners to purchase ready-made mixtures, dilute them in water and water young tomato seedlings. If you want to prepare the solution yourself, then its composition per 10 liters of settled water should be as follows:

ammonium nitrate - 10 g;
superphosphate - 35 g;
potassium sulfate - 10 g.

The first feeding is carried out on the 12th day after picking. You can repeat top dressing after 10-15 days.

Important: phosphorus and potassium are in ordinary ash, so supporters of "clean" fertilizers can use a solution of 1 tablespoon of ash per liter of water.

Light day for young tomato seedlings should be about 12 hours. It is desirable that the plants are oriented "to the sun" in the same way as they will be oriented on the site.
The ideal temperature for tomatoes is 22-24°C during the day and 14-16°C at night.
Hardening seedlings is an important process, because it is impossible to achieve ideal conditions in a natural environment. So 10–12 days before planting in the ground, you need to gradually lower the temperature to 14–15 ° C. For 4–5 days, the temperature can be set within 12–13°C. Airing, cloudy weather, humidity changes - all this will accustom the plant to future real conditions of existence.

As a result, a tomato seedling should have 7 or more leaves, the thickness of the trunk should be about 7 mm, the height should not exceed 25 cm, the root system should be well developed.

Summarizing

Before planting tomatoes in the ground, they must be germinated at home. To do this, prepare seeds and soil, sow, dive after the appearance of two leaves, feed, water and maintain the correct temperature and light conditions. And then all the plants must take root, and gardeners get a good harvest of tomatoes.

The use of poor or inappropriate quality soil mixture can slow down the development and even lead to the death of seedlings. It is thoughtless and wrong to simply go to the garden, collect land and sow seeds in it. After all, for example, for seedlings, you cannot use the land on which Cruciferae were previously grown (it probably contains infections characteristic of cabbage crops, and you can destroy your seedlings already at the initial stage of its cultivation). How to be?

Choose soil for vegetable, flower, coniferous crops in our catalog, which contains offers from large online stores of seeds and planting material. :

You can choose containers for seedlings in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. :

Mistake 5: Trying to "improve" manufacturer-treated seeds

An attempt to "improve" the sowing qualities of seeds that have already been processed can lead to very sad consequences. At a minimum, it will negate all the benefits of your purchase. In the worst case, as a result of such diligence, the seeds may lose their germination.

Mistake 6: non-observance of terms of cultivation

Many novice farmers mistakenly believe that there is no need to observe the timing of sowing and growing seedlings: just think, three weeks earlier or two weeks later - what would seem to be the difference when to sow the seeds? Nevertheless, there is a difference, and it is significant.

Failure to meet the deadlines will lead to the fact that the plants will turn out to be underdeveloped and may not take root after transplanting to a permanent place. The approximate time for sowing seeds for seedlings is always indicated by the manufacturer on the back of the package., and focus on it. You will find a universal way to calculate the sowing dates for vegetable crops in the article.

Mistake 7: Excessive Seed Burial

Burying the seeds more than required may cause them to not germinate at all or only a few germinate, so don't overdo it when planting! Seeding depth for most species is 2 seed diameters. We also do not forget that there are light-similar seeds - they cannot be sprinkled with soil at all, because light is an important condition for their germination. Manufacturers, as a rule, also indicate information about the depth of seed placement on the packaging.

Mistake 8: thickening crops

Another typical mistake of many gardeners is thickened seed sowing, the consequences of which will be weak, elongated seedlings, and not only. Thickened crops are much more likely to be affected. In addition, seedlings simply do not have enough space for normal development, they lack nutrition and as a result develop unevenly, become very fragile.

Therefore, it is necessary to sow seeds at a sufficient distance from each other so that during growth they do not compete with each other for food, light and moisture. Of course, for each culture this distance will be different, therefore, in order not to be mistaken, when sowing, consider seeding rates and agricultural practices.

Mistake 9: watering after sowing

seeds, or rather, the soil in which these very seeds are located, immediately after sowing, leads to the fact that the seeds, along with water, are drawn into the depths of the soil. This means that they will germinate much longer, if they germinate at all (we have already talked about how important the correct sowing depth is).

The soil in the seedling boxes needs to be watered before sowing seeds, while using room temperature water. If you need to moisten the soil after sowing, do this with a spray bottle. You can read about other watering devices and fixtures in the article.

You can choose small-capacity sprayers in our gardening catalog, which combines offers from major online gardening stores. .

Fertilizer for seedlings universal ORTON-Rassada-Rost, 20 g 19 rub
seedspost.ru

Fertilizer for seedlings universal ORTON-Rassada, 20 g 19 rub
seedspost.ru

Fertilizer for seedlings of tomatoes ORTON-Rassada-Tomatoes, 20 g 19 rub
seedspost.ru

Fertilizer for seedlings of cucumbers ORTON-Rassada-Cucumbers, 20 g 19 rub
seedspost.ru

Mistake 12: ignoring seedling diseases and the lack of their prevention

Ignoring seedling diseases - root and root rot, black leg and others - will inevitably lead to the death of plants, so you can’t hope for a miracle (that everything will go away by itself)! As soon as you notice that something is wrong with the seedlings - it has become frail, the leaves are falling, the trunk is darkening, other signs of trouble have appeared - it is necessary to fight the disease as soon as possible.

First, they diagnose, look for the causes, and then take measures aimed at eliminating the problem. Publications and comments on questions will help to understand the methods of treatment and prevention.

To speed up the emergence of a good and high-quality crop, most vegetable crops today are grown from seedlings.

It begins to be grown a few weeks or months before planting in a permanent place where the crop grows.

In this material, we would like to discuss in more detail when it is best to plant seedlings of the most popular vegetables now grown in almost every summer cottage - this tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, cabbage, eggplant and zucchini.

In recent years, it has become popular to plant seedlings according to the ray calendar or according to various folk signs.

It is believed that plants planted on the waning moon will be lifeless and weak. But we will consider more rational planting dates, based on the characteristics of each of the plants.

Modern gardeners grow seedlings in a variety of ways. Special pots, egg trays and even paper cups are used for this. The time of planting seeds depends entirely on the types and individual characteristics of the growth of vegetables. The main thing to consider is the approximate time for planting cuttings in open ground in a permanent place.

They begin to grow seedlings, often from April, early May. Moreover, in May it can be grown directly in open ground under shelters made of a special film, of course, if the year is warm. A few weeks before transplanting, plants from warmed places are often hardened, that is, they are taken out a little to the open space of the street, each time increasing the length of stay in cooler conditions.

Planting pepper seedlings

Pepper is a very heat-loving crop, which is considered one of the most beneficial for the human body. It contains a huge amount of vitamin C and multivitamin A. Sweet pepper perfectly complements many meat dishes on our table, so summer residents grow it in their gardens.

Photo of seedlings of pepper

Peppers are suitable exclusively for seedling cultivation., since the time from germination to the appearance of the first fruits is quite long - 120-150 days. Peppers are transplanted into open ground at the age of 60-80 days, when the first buds appear on the bush. Approximate landing time is determined by ambient temperature.

Having started the first shoots, the plant grows well at a temperature of 12 to 15 degrees during the day, and from 6 to 10 at night. Therefore, the approximate planting time is the first decade of June, when the risk of frost is minimal. During the period of seedling maturation in greenhouses, it needs periodic solar hardening, since plants that do not see the sun will immediately burn out.

tomato seedling

Tomatoes are a round red vegetable with a sweet or sweet and sour flavor. Of all vegetable crops, tomatoes are the least demanding in growing conditions. But they are quite demanding on the temperature regime.

Photo of tomato seedlings

The first shoots are shown in the ground as early as 3-7 days after sowing. The optimum temperature for the normal development of tomatoes is 20-25 degrees. If the temperature rises above 30, then their growth slows down significantly or stops altogether.

Planting tomatoes for seedlings should be approximately 60-70 days before transplanting to a permanent place. Late varieties are planted in 45-50 days. The time for sowing seeds is March 10 - April 1. As a rule, young plants are transplanted after the spring frosts have ended.

For the central regions of the country - this is May 1-15, more northern regions - June 10-20. If the seedlings were previously hardened, then transplantation can be done 15-20 days earlier than the generally accepted dates.

cucumber seedling

Cucumbers are the most capricious vegetable in terms of transplantation. Before planting the seeds of a plant, they need to be germinated. In the twentieth of March - early April, you can start preparing seedlings.

Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 250 g of water). Then they are moved to a damp cloth, which maintains a temperature of 20-25 degrees. When they have the first seedlings, they begin to plant plants in pots, 6-10 cm wide.

The maximum age of a young plant before transplantation is 25-30 days. In the greenhouse, transplantation begins in mid-May, and on open ground - in mid-June.

Seedlings of zucchini and eggplant

These crops, like cucumbers, are very whimsical to grow. The temperature of their normal development is 20-25 degrees. The first shoots of plants appear after 10-15 days after sowing.

In the photo, eggplant seedlings

If the temperature drops, then seedlings may appear much later. Early maturing varieties of zucchini bear fruit only 100 days after planting, which is why they are grown through seedlings.

Plants are transplanted into the ground, usually 60-65 days after sowing the seeds. The plant does not tolerate frost, so it is better to plant eggplant seedlings in mid-March, and transfer them to the ground at the end of May.

Sowing time for cabbage

Cabbage seeds are sown at a variety of times, it all depends on the variety of the crop. But usually this happens 60-65 days before transplanting into open ground. Seedlings of cabbage of earlier varieties can be started as early as mid-March, medium and late - from mid-April.

The first harvest in early varieties occurs after 90-110 days, in medium - 130-150 days, while late varieties bear fruit 150-170 days after planting.

This plant is cold-resistant and photophilous, and has special requirements for soil fertility. Seedlings develop normally at a temperature of 6 to 10 degrees until the first shoots appear, then the temperature should be increased to 14-18 degrees.

Planting dates for seedlings are different for each plant. Therefore, before starting it, study the characteristics of the growth of the crop in order to get a rich and healthy harvest on time.

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