Planting time for fruit trees. How to plant seedlings of fruit trees. The process of planting seedlings acquired in late autumn

All so modern and well-read of all kinds of garden forums, I did not think that the simple advice of a rural gardener would help me so much in life.

And you know, this time I decided to write an article in which there will be no information from books and encyclopedias on gardening - you probably read them a hundred times without me. I will write only my personal practical observations.

Very close to our village in Soviet times there was a large fruit farm "Krasnoye". A huge area was occupied by orchards of cherries, pears, plums, apples of various varieties and ripening times. There was a solid nursery of seedlings and even a cannery. Schoolchildren were taken out “for apples”, on weekends a bus departed from the center of the village, in which everyone could go to the harvest with payment in kind. Fulfilled the norm - take as much fruit as you can carry.

The nursery no longer exists, but the habit of growing seedlings remains. Rumor has it that this is in the blood of the inhabitants of the Kuban. In general, many are now engaged in the cultivation and sale of seedlings of fruit trees, since every resident of the village has personal plots. I fell in love with this type of gardening quite by accident.

One grandfather lives not far from me (he used to work in the same fruit farm), and so he is a storehouse of valuable experience! The plants in his garden are healthy, strong, bear fruit be healthy - bunches of grapes grow three kilograms, honestly! And grandfather categorically does not use chemicals. For some reason, he doesn't allow photography.

Once I began to talk about how grapes should be cut, so I was really horrified: pruning clematis of the third group is a trifle and child's play compared to the correct pruning of grapes!

Grandfather's children and grandchildren remained completely indifferent to gardening, so he probably decided to pass on his experience to at least someone, and then, by the way, I turned up. So, we proceed directly to the transfer of the most valuable experience of a practical gardener with many years of experience!

How to choose the right time to plant fruit trees

One item on the agenda When is the best time to plant fruit trees?, autumn or spring. For our climatic conditions (Krasnodar Territory) - definitely in the fall. Why? Our spring is short. For example, two days ago it was cold, and today (March 31), the thermometer showed +20°C. The heat comes very quickly, and the transplanted plants have a hard time, some may die, no matter how you water and shade them. Already in April, the air even in the shade warms up to + 35 ° C - how can a seedling survive? Of course, if necessary, we plant fruit trees in the spring, but in this case they get sick longer, lag behind in growth and development, and they begin to bear fruit 2-3 years later than the due date.

But all of the above applies only to the southern regions. Gardeners in other regions can safely plant fruit trees in the spring, as soon as the soil thaws. And now - the promised secrets.

Secret 1: seedling age

For transplantation, only one-year-old seedlings are considered conditioned, especially for stone fruits. Whatever and wherever you read that 2-3-year-old seedlings are exactly what you need to form a healthy and strong garden, forget it. Even in Soviet times, two-year-old seedlings were culled. Why? In one-year-olds, the crown is less developed and the trunk is much shorter, so the rooting process is much easier and faster. When transplanted, 2-3-year-old stone fruit seedlings get sick for a long time (they can simply exist for 2 to 5 years, but not grow), very often the gum begins to leak. If this happens, then most likely the tree will die. In any case, even after intensive treatment, it is not necessary to expect abundant harvests from him.

What height should one-year-olds be:

pome - 80-100 cm;
stone fruits - 120-140 cm.

Secret 2: watering

The old gardener repeated several times: after transplanting, fruit seedlings should be watered for 2 years! And nothing less! It doesn't matter what region you live in when the landing was made. Strictly two calendar years. Only in this case will you have a strong, hardy tree capable of producing a good harvest every year. Of course, when planting in the autumn, it should be watered before the onset of frost.

In grandfather's garden around the trunks (even in mature trees) earthen mounds are poured in a circle so that the water does not spread during irrigation, but goes where it is needed. The diameter of the circle is approximately 80-120 cm. How much water do you need? It depends on the composition of the soil and weather conditions. If it has not rained for two weeks, water until the water soaks into the ground with a delay. That is, so that the next day a crust forms on the surface of the earth, which you will need to loosen.

Secret 3: Guaranteed High Yields

So that your seedlings bring a decent harvest at the appointed time and do not die, follow simple rules. This applies to both one-year-olds and two-year-olds (for two-year-olds, add at least 1-2 years to the fruiting period, you can’t go wrong). 2-3 years after planting, peaches and apple trees are ready for fruiting (especially on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks). A little later, it will be possible to expect a harvest from apricots and plums - in 3-4 years. The pear will make you wait for the first fruit for 4-5 years.

If your seedlings bloomed before the specified time - remove all flowers, until the last! I know that I want to see and try at least one single fruit, but I can’t! Wait a bit, give the tree time to get stronger and gain strength.

To summarize: I have been following these simple tips for more than a year, so I do not know the problems with the lack of fruits from my own garden. Yes, and for the sale of a little seedlings, I grow constantly, for especially tasty and early-ripening varieties, I have a turn! By the way, I sell exclusively one-year-olds for sale, and there has not yet been a single case that my seedling has not been accepted.

I hope the simple secrets of the old garden will be useful to you too)

You will find even more interesting and useful information about choosing a seedling and planting time in the materials.

Fruit trees are surprisingly easy to grow in your backyard. In the spring they will please you with beautiful flowers, and then with an abundance of fruits. Apple, peach, plum and pear trees - all these trees grow well in different climatic conditions. When making your choice, consult a fruit nursery to see if the fruit tree you have chosen is suitable for the conditions of the area in which you live. Read this article to learn how to plant fruit trees so that they bear fruit successfully for many years to come.

Steps

Part 1

Selecting a landing site

Buy a fruit tree with an open root system. Good tasting fruits - sweet apples, plums, pears, etc. - are produced by grafted trees. Although fruit trees can be grown from seed, such trees do not necessarily produce fruits that are edible. To ensure that the tree you choose will produce good tasting fruit, it is best to buy an open root fruit tree that is very young and already grafted.

Choose an open, sunny spot in your area. Fruit trees usually need at least 6 hours of full sun to produce fruit. Find a spot in the area where the fruit tree will not be shaded by the house or other taller trees. There should be no other vegetation near the fruit tree that would compete with it for nutrients and water.

When choosing the location of a fruit tree, you must imagine it as an adult. Imagine the width of its crown, keep in mind that the roots of the tree extend the same length as the branches. It follows from this that one should not plant a tree too close to a building or a road.

Check the drainage capacity of the soil at the intended planting site. Besides sun, good soil drainage is the second essential condition for fruit trees to thrive. Water in the soil should not stagnate, as this will cause the roots of fruit trees to rot in the ground. Check soil drainage by digging a hole 1 foot deep and filling it with water. If the water soaks into the soil quickly, the place is perfect for planting a fruit tree. If the water stagnates, choose another location.
- If your yard has heavy clay soil, resulting in poor drainage, the tree can still be planted if certain methods are used. For example, you can plant a fruit tree in a raised bed, or you can loosen clay by mixing it with compost to improve drainage.
Part 2
Digging a hole and preparing the soil
1. Start preparing for planting in the spring. Although fruit trees can be planted at any time of the year, in areas with cold winters, this is best done in the spring. Then the tree will immediately begin to adapt to the soil and grow roots. Spring is also the best time for digging, as the ground has already thawed and become soft.
  
  Add compost to the soil if necessary. If you have heavy clay soil or heavy compacted soil, it's a good idea to dig it up to a depth of at least 2 feet and add some compost. This will loosen up the soil, provide better drainage, and create more favorable conditions for root growth. Use a garden shovel or cultivator to dig up and loosen the soil, then add the compost and mix it into the soil.
  
  Dig a wide hole. Use a shovel to dig a hole twice as wide as the diameter of the roots of the tree you are planting. The roots of fruit trees usually grow away from the trunk, so you give them enough room to grow. Make sure the roots are surrounded by loose soil, not compacted earth, which will restrict their growth.
  
  When planting fruit trees, follow the instructions for soil improvement. Depending on the type of tree and the condition of the soil, you can add organic nutrients to the planting hole. In some cases, it is only necessary to pour compost into the bottom of the planting hole.
  - Consult a fruit nursery regarding the possibilities and need for soil improvement. In some cases, you may not need to amend and improve the soil as the existing soil is quite rich in nutrients.
  - Do not add compost or other nutrients unless advised to do so. Once roots grow beyond the improved soil, they will need to survive on naturally available nutrients. Therefore, in the long run, the very rich soil into which they fall when planting will not bring the expected benefits.
2. Set the tree in the planting hole. Pour loose earth into the hole to a height of about a finger's length to form a hill. Stand the fruit tree with its roots on a hill, straighten the roots and make sure the grafting site at the base of the tree trunk is above ground level. Adjust the position of the tree by adding or removing soil from the mound. Check if all the roots are in the ground.
  - If there are roots in/above the grafting site, cut off those roots and check again that the grafting site is above the ground. If the roots from the grafting site reach the soil, then the tree will always produce growth that weakens it.
3. Pack the soil around the roots. Fill the voids around the tree roots with nutrient soil and make sure the roots are completely covered with soil. Step back and check if the tree is upright. Tamp the soil carefully.
  
  Water the roots. Fully water the planting area so that the soil fills all the voids around the roots of the tree. Pour in the earth, carefully tamp it down and water it again. Continue this process until the soil at the planting site is level with the ground on the site.
  - Do not overwater, if the roots of the tree are flooded, they will rot.
4. If necessary, install supports for the fruit tree. If you live in an area with strong winds, strengthen the tree by tying it to a strong stake with a strong cloth or rubber band. Check if this will restrict the growth of the tree trunk. The brace will also help the tree grow straight and tall.
  
  Cover the watering area around the tree with a layer of organic mulch. This will keep the soil moist and protect the roots. In addition, mulch discourages the growth of grass and weeds that compete with trees for nutrients and water. Check that the inoculation site is not covered with mulch; it must remain within sight, above ground level.
Part 3
fruit tree care

Autumn is the optimal time for planting seedlings with an open root system or with a bare root. Planting time without reference to climatic zones - from the moment the leaves fall naturally until the period of freezing of the soil. Having bought seedlings with foliage, immediately tear off all the leaves from it to reduce the loss of moisture through them and the drying of the seedling itself.

What fruit trees are planted in spring

Trees with an open root system are not frost-resistant (these include some varieties of apple and pear trees, heat-loving apricots, peaches, and some varieties of plums and cherries) are better. Pits for spring planting are best prepared in the fall. Then you will start planting seedlings immediately after the ground thaws, while the soil is saturated with moisture. The period of spring planting of trees ends with the appearance of the first leaves.

The basic rule of planting is that the earlier you plant, the easier the seedling adapts and the more likely it is to take root well.

In conditions of high humidity, plant a tree on mounds prepared ahead of time in the fall. Their landing is carried out definitely in the spring.

Terms of planting seedlings with a closed system and in containers

Planting dates for seedlings with an earthen clod (closed root system) are more extended. In the spring, the planting period is extended until the onset of hot days, if planting is carried out in cloudy weather, and the crowns of seedlings with leaves are shaded by throwing white gauze.

Seedlings with a closed root system need abundant watering within a month after planting.

In autumn, seedlings with a clod of earth can be planted as soon as the heat subsides, without waiting for the leaves to fall. Seedlings will require watering and shading. Another option is to cut off the foliage on the tree. Planting dates in the fall last until the onset of frost.
The terms of planting seedlings in containers are from early spring to late autumn. On hot dry days, it is better to refrain from planting. The crowns of planted fruit trees are shaded, seedlings are regularly watered.

Every spring, the planting season starts in all areas. It starts as soon as the snow melts, and ends by the end of May. There are gardeners who coped with fruit trees and shrubs in the fall. But how right is this and when is it better to plant - in spring or autumn?

Purely theoretically - you can plant a bush at any time of the year, there is even the concept of winter planting of coniferous and ornamental trees. The most important thing for a freshly planted bush is good and tight contact of the root system with the ground. If the roots do not come into contact with the soil, then the plant will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated by the crown.

In winter, it is difficult to ensure high-quality contact of the roots with the ground, since the ground is frozen, and the plant absorbs moisture even in hibernation. Preparation for winter is carried out in the summer, the process is complex and time-consuming, therefore disembarkation is carried out only when necessary, for example, this method is suitable for high (up to 14 meters!) Spruce.

In summer, the problem is increased evaporation of moisture. This disadvantage can be eliminated by frequent abundant watering, but, again, this process is quite laborious. Thus, planting can be done all year round if properly cared for. But why add unnecessary complexity if everything can be done in favorable periods - in spring and autumn?

Best time to land

The optimal time is the period of physiological dormancy, when the trees are hibernating in anticipation of favorable conditions for the growing season. The dormant period begins as soon as the foliage falls from them, and ends when the buds begin to open. They don't care when they are jailed. But there are factors that are important for the gardener. Let's consider them.

Autumn benefits:

a large selection of planting material on the market;
one watering is enough, rains will make up for the lack of moisture;
if the winter is mild, then the culture will begin to recover and grow new roots;
any gardener has a lot of worries, autumn planting will free up time during the hot period.

Cons of autumn:

a cold and snowy winter can destroy a tender and vulnerable seedling;
rodents are also dangerous for young crops;
if the garden is left unattended, freshly planted trees can be stolen.

Spring benefits:

in winter there is enough time to make a plan, to prepare theoretically;
in winter, you can prepare a tool and dig holes;
you don’t have to worry about the seedlings being stolen;
trees get one more year of vegetation.

Cons of spring planting:

watering must be done at least twice - after the procedure and the next day, and if the weather is hot, then the trunk will have to be watered often;
if you are late, then the seedling is difficult to go out;
the choice on the market is less than in autumn.

Thus, you can perform the procedure at any time. Each gardener decides for himself when it will be more convenient for him.

Costs take into account local climatic conditions. In the southern regions, the procedure is best done in the fall. Autumn is long and warm, while spring is too short and hot. In the north, due to the harsh winter, it is worth preferring the spring period. If you did not have time to plant a bush in March – April, put it off until autumn.

Spring Procedure Rules

For a successful landing need to complete set of rules so that the tree can quickly recover and begin to build up an active root system, take root, begin to receive the necessary trace elements and water for the successful development of the crown. To do this, you need to pay attention to 3 aspects: the quality of the seedling, technology and optimal time.

Rules for choosing seedlings:

It is better to buy a seedling in a large company or a specialized gardening farm in order to get advice if necessary.
The tree should have a label with the name of the breed and variety.
The seedling should be beautiful and even, without a skewed crown, twisted trunk, uneven growth of branches. It must have at least 3 skeletal branches.
There must be no signs of disease or damage.
In the presence of a container, the roots should not germinate through the drainage hole.
The earth ball should be proportional to the crown and dense.
There should be no signs of disease on the root system, the roots should not be damaged or overdried.
The foliage on the seedling must be removed.

Choose the time

Best time to land seedlings with a closed root system, in containers or with an earthen clod, end of May - beginning of June. At this time, active root growth occurs. Bare-rooted seedlings do better than bare-rooted trees, as severe root damage is unlikely.

Plants with an open root system it is recommended to plant when they are at rest, the buds do not swell and begin to grow. This period begins around the end of April - beginning of May.

seedlings with exposed roots should be planted immediately after purchase. If this is not possible, then the seedling should be laid in a small hole at an angle and sprinkled with earth. Choose a shady place.

Conifers are purchased exclusively with a closed root system. They tolerate transplanting worse, so it is recommended to do this early, in March – April.

The spring procedure period is short. As soon as the earth warms up, plants can be planted, but exactly until the moment when bud growth begins. This period is only 3 weeks and falls, depending on the latitude, in April – May. If you did not have time to buy seedlings, postpone the renewal of the garden until the fall.

They demand exactly spring planting thermophilic plants- plum, apricot, cherry, sweet cherry, cherry plum, not winter-hardy varieties of apple trees and pears.

Process

Properly done, it has a positive effect on the survival rate of seedlings. Consists of ten steps:

Landing is more convenient to produce in pairs. The first person will hold the seedling and carefully straighten the roots along the mound, and the other will fill the hole starting from the edges and carefully compact the earth with his foot. For preventing void formation between the roots, the seedling must be shaken. Upon completion, at the borders of the pit, pour a roller of earth.

In conclusion, a few more tips regarding the proper planting of fruit crops in the spring.

Most garden plants can be planted in spring and autumn, gardeners usually prefer autumn planting, but in central Russia with fairly early and severe winters, autumn planting of seedlings will lead to freezing of plants.

Therefore, for mid-latitudes, spring planting of seedlings is more justified. But it must be carried out strictly before bud break.

Preparatory work in the garden

Pits for planting should be prepared in the fall. This is especially important for dense soils - clay and loamy, where a serious replacement of the soil is required. The rule is simple: for the autumn planting of seedlings, pits are prepared from spring, for spring - from autumn. The prepared pit should stand for 6-7 months.

Why dig a hole for seedlings in advance

If you plant trees or shrubs in a hole freshly dug in the spring, then the earth will gradually settle and pull the seedlings behind it, they will be below the level of the site, i.e. in the hole. This means that puddles of water will accumulate, melt water will stand, and the melting of snow will be delayed. If the pit is hilled, then there is a risk of deepening the root neck, and it should only be covered with a thin layer of soil (1-2 cm).

Trees that are too deep when planting lag behind in growth, develop slowly and bear fruit worse. A planting error needs to be corrected (lifting the plant out of the ground) to save the seedling, but this is a very time consuming job, so just try to avoid planting incorrectly.

How to dig holes for planting seedlings

The depth and diameter of the pit for planting seedlings depends on the crop:

For pears and apple trees 60-70 cm deep, 80-90 cm in diameter
Plums and cherries - 40 cm deep, 70-80 cm in diameter
Currant, honeysuckle and gooseberry - 35-40 cm deep, 60 cm in diameter
Sea buckthorn, irga - 40 cm deep, 80 cm in diameter
Raspberries - 30-40 cm deep, 50 cm in diameter

The distance between future trees: for apple, pear, cherry plum, cherry, sweet cherry - 5 m.

The technique of digging a hole and then filling it with earth is also special. For fruit trees, pits are dug deep enough, and the excavated land is heterogeneous. The excavated soil conditionally has two fractions - the arable layer - about 20 cm of the upper earth (half of the bayonet of a shovel) and the subsoil layer - the one that is deeper than the upper 20 cm.

When digging a hole for seedlings, throw the earth into two different piles - into one arable layer, into the other the lower horizon. Then partially evenly scatter the lower, infertile soil over the site, partially - make a trunk circle out of it, or immediately unload it into a wheelbarrow to take it out of the garden. The walls of the pit must be sheer!

Preparation of a pit in an abandoned area

If fruit plantings are carried out on an abandoned site overgrown with turf, the scheme is different: you need to remove a layer of turf (10-15 cm, depending on the herbs) and set it aside, then remove the fertile layer under the turf (another 15-20 cm) and fold it into a separate bunch. Then dig out the earth below, to the required depth (about the bayonet of a shovel) and put it in a garden cart.

At the dug hole, we align the walls (vertically, as in a well) and fold the sod to the bottom of the hole, turning the layers of grass down.

Filling the pit

The dug hole must be filled, it must not be left empty until spring, otherwise melt water will remain in it for a long time, and the hole will become unsuitable for spring plantings - until the water leaves, all planting dates will expire.

Therefore, we fill the pit in the fall. For this you will need:

1-2 buckets of well-rotted manure (3 years old)
1-2 buckets of leaf humus (either peat or fertile land from other plantings on the site)
about 100-200 g of ash per 1 sq. m of soil (1-2 faceted glass)
fertile layer of earth taken out of the pit

We pour all the constituent components into the pit in parts: a third of each in three additions, and mix with a shovel. After each layer, you need to trample the ground with your feet. The total volume of filling for the pit should be in such an amount that a mound about 20 cm high forms in the place of the pit.

Humus (rotted manure) is ideally horse, it is the best suited for top dressing, in second place is mullein. Bird droppings are completely unsuitable for seedlings. Manure is unacceptable to use fresh, it must lie down well, at least two years, better than three.

Fertilizing when planting seedlings

Whether or not to apply mineral fertilizers to the pit when planting seedlings is a moot point. The root system of seedlings is severely injured during digging and is sensitive to contact with fertilizers, young growing roots are burned and die. Instead of building up the root system, the plant freezes in growth or dies.

Plant roots are especially sensitive to nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. The only way to avoid root burn is to apply them at some distance from the seedling's root ball.

But this is impractical due to the fact that mineral fertilizers do not have time to wait until the accustomed roots grow to them and absorb painlessly - they dissolve in water and are washed out into the lower layers of the soil much earlier.

Phosphorus fertilizers could act somewhat softer on the roots if they contained phosphorus in its pure form. However, simple or double superphosphate, in addition to phosphorus ions, contains impurities that are far from harmless for roots, especially young and injured transplants. Therefore, phosphate fertilizers can also be added when planting only at some distance from the root ball of seedlings.

Traditional agronomy taught us to apply fertilizers when planting seedlings as follows: nitrogen fertilizers (rotted manure, compost), necessary for good growth of seedlings, mixed with soil to fill the pit (with the fertile layer taken out). Mix phosphorus and potash fertilizers with a small amount of earth (shovel scoop) and pour into the bottom of the pit. Do not add mineral fertilizers to the soil of the upper half of the pit, where the root system of the plant will be placed.

Such a system helps to avoid burning the roots, but it is likely that by the time the root system recovers, grows up and reaches the soil layer with embedded fertilizers, the nutrients from it will be washed out or intercepted by grass roots.

From the point of view of modern agronomy, no mineral fertilizers need to be applied to the pit during planting seedlings. You can cause serious harm to young trees or shrubs, up to the death of the plant.

How to speed up the growth of seedlings

After planting, it is especially important to achieve the development of a good root system of fruit crops. Therefore, top dressing should be safe - use weak solutions of liquid organic fertilizers (mullein, green manure), but not immediately after planting, but approximately in the second or third year after planting.

The need for mineral fertilizers increases much later, when the plants reach fruiting age.

If you are going to plant a garden on poor soils, then you should stock up on several carts of imported fertile land in advance. Do not use the lower, nutrient-poor soil layer when digging a hole.

If the planting pit is filled with fertile soil, then there is no need for additional refueling with fertilizers.

Planting seedlings

First of all, we plant winter inoculations of seedlings that were stored in a cold basement or rootstocks buried before winter.

Conduct an audit: inspect the root system of plants, remove rotten roots to healthy tissue (it is light in color). Cut the cuts in a straight line, without sawing, with a very sharp knife - the smoother the cut, the faster the callus forms. If the seedlings have cuts or breaks on thick roots, sprinkle them with crushed coal.

If you have purchased seedlings whose root system is covered with clay talker, you need to wash the roots from it!

For planting in the area prepared in the fall and seasoned with nutrient soil, we dig a hole, but not over the entire area where the hole was dug in the fall, but much less - the recess should be sufficient so that the root system of the seedling fits freely in it, but no more. The depth is such that the root neck of the seedling placed in the pit is at ground level. Do not allow deepening even by 5-7 cm.

The root neck of a seedling is the place where the first roots depart from the trunk. Not to be confused with the grafting site - it is about 10-15 cm higher than the root collar.

To plant the seedling at the correct depth, use a level - a long stick placed across the hole so that the ends rest on the level ground around the hole.

It is better to plant seedlings together, so that one person holds the tree by the trunk, maintaining its even vertical position, the second one digs in. If the seedling has many roots, when falling asleep with earth, you need to lightly shake the trunk so that the earth is well distributed into the voids between the roots.

Do not compact the soil around the planting site too hard. Just water the soil, when the earth settles, throw more. In the first two weeks, the earth will cover, and if necessary, it is necessary to spud again if the root collar is exposed.

After digging the seedling, around it you need to form a near-trunk circle, or "saucer" for watering. About 50-60 cm in diameter, 7-10 cm high. Be sure to fix the stem of the seedling - stick a wooden peg into the ground next to the trunk. It is important to sharpen its lower end sharply so that it does not tear the roots of the tree, but easily passes between them. Tie the trunk to the support with jute or a piece of nylon tights. Do not use wire or fishing line for garters!

If it is planned to use not a thin peg, but a large pole as a support, it is necessary to sharpen its end and drive in the pole before planting the seedling!

After planting, it is necessary to water the plant abundantly, the near-trunk earthen circle will not allow water to spread over the site. Watering is necessary in any weather and soil moisture. After watering, the earth becomes heavier, settles and compacts naturally. How much water to pour: a full bucket, but not at once, but in two or three doses.

When planting winter-grafted seedlings, a month after planting, you need to remove the film strapping.

If you did not have time to prepare landing pits in the fall

What to do in this case? You can plant cultivated shrubs and trees, but you will have to limit yourself not to wide pits filled with prepared soil, but to small holes the size of the root system of seedlings. But later it will be necessary to cultivate the soil around the plantings, the mechanism of which will depend on the type of soil.

Without preliminary preparation of the pit, fruit and berry bushes and trees are planted only on soils with a close occurrence of groundwater. In this case, the hole is dug shallow - just on the bayonet of a shovel, but the nutrient soil is poured not only into the hole, but also from above with a high mound. The mound should be at least 40-50 cm high and about 100 cm in diameter. In this case, it is necessary to form a watering "saucer".

If the groundwater runs deep, and there is no seedling on the mound, then it is possible to carry out the technique of planting seedlings with subsequent mulching without prior preparation. The pit is dug shallow, on the bayonet of a shovel. Then, around the seedling in a diameter of one and a half meters, 3 buckets of old humus are distributed in an even layer, and digging is carried out. We water the soil and mulch with a thick layer of straw or peat (height 5-7 cm).

In any case, remember that the root neck of the seedling cannot be buried, and young plants need abundant watering.

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