All about ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: how to do it, forced and natural ventilation Proper ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

The bathroom is a high humidity area, and the bathroom often has condensation due to the high temperature of the water during bathing. In order for dry walls, floor and ceiling to remain in the room, it is important to ventilate the room well, otherwise mold will begin to develop, and being in the bathroom will be not only unpleasant, but also dangerous. By properly equipping the ventilation system, you can save yourself from the unpleasant consequences of its absence.

Peculiarities

Any room in an apartment or house should not only be habitable, but also be used with comfort. So, if there are no windows in the living room, then the air there will be stale and stale, which will contribute to the development of pathogens, and the person who lives there will constantly get sick.

It is equally important to make sure that the stay in the toilet and shower is just as comfortable. The bathroom can be both combined and separate, which, in turn, implies a different ventilation device. The hood for the bathroom and toilet must effectively cope with its task, providing intensive air exchange and a constant temperature in the room. Ventilation is especially important in environments with high levels of humidity, because constant contact with water spoils any wall, floor or ceiling coating and causes the appearance of unwanted microorganisms on it, which adversely affect human health.

In the toilet, an exhaust hood is needed to effectively remove unpleasant odors, which is very important for this room, especially in an apartment. Whatever room we are talking about, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for the existence of a person of any age.

You can take care of the ventilation system yourself or with the help of professionals.

Kinds

Based on the various configurations of the premises in an apartment or house, their dimensions, there are several options for ventilation that can be installed in them. The simplest will be natural ventilation, which is laid during the construction of housing, but if desired, it can be done or upgraded later. Such a system helps to promote air masses, effectively updating them indoors, without requiring the installation of any electrical equipment.

The principle of its operation is that air ducts leading to the roof are installed on top of the room., the hot air in the room rises and enters these hidden paths due to the temperature difference. This principle is called convection and works quite effectively if the temperature is different in the room and on the street.

When creating such an extract, it is necessary to provide for some nuances.

The air duct must be placed vertically. Each room in the room should have its own shaft.
If the premises are located nearby and have similar specifics in the form of high humidity, a large temperature difference and a strong smell, then they can be combined with one ventilation shaft.
The natural type of ventilation at a neutral temperature has a small draft, therefore it is desirable to make air ducts with smooth walls.
When installing ventilation yourself, it is better to make sure that there are no sharp corners that impede the passage of air and its removal to the outside.
One-story houses should have a wiring near the ceiling, which goes to the attic and is displayed on the roof.

The air that is removed from the room has a certain tension and circulation, which is called traction force.

There are several ways to check the ventilation performance.

Bring a match to the ventilation. If there is movement of the flame, then the ventilation is working fully.
Take a sheet of paper and bring it to the ventilation. If he stays on it, then the traction is good, if he falls, then the air is removed badly. The indicators will be inaccurate if the air temperature in the room and on the street is approximately equal.

If natural ventilation is inefficient, it is advisable to use an enhanced version. Forced ventilation involves the presence of an electrical device in the form of a fan. Ceiling ventilation of this type must be equipped with a suitable device that can cope with a given amount of air masses. For such a device, it is enough to have one channel in the room, through which all the polluted air from the room will be removed. To calculate the optimal power of the device, you need to multiply the volume of the room, where the length is multiplied by the width and height of the room, by the frequency of use, which varies from 5 to 10, which is dictated by the number of people living in the room and using the bath, toilet or kitchen.

With a minimum number of residents, the coefficient is five, then it increases relative to the residents of an apartment or house.

Using forced fans in the bathroom can be dangerous, because the contact of electrical appliances with moisture can cause a short circuit. In order not to risk the performance of the device and the safety of residents, it is necessary to install moisture-resistant fans.

When choosing a fan, it is important to pay attention to various indicators.

The presence of a humidity sensor, which itself calculates the moment to turn on when the humidity threshold has been overcome. This type of inclusion helps to significantly save on electricity.
Fans with a timer allow you to set the time for turning on ventilation so as not to waste time on this, but to actively use the room under optimal and comfortable conditions.
With the presence of a motion sensor that activates the fan if there is someone in the room.
A device with a non-return valve to prevent the entry of polluted air from the environment into the room.

Modern devices can be equipped with smart technologies that have many functions and are easy to operate. Smart ventilation allows you to achieve the desired result even for people with disabilities. Exhaust ventilation can have an autonomous version and be located in the ventilation shaft of the bathroom, in the kitchen window or any other place where it can bring air from the room to the street. The operation of such a device is carried out on batteries, which means that there is no risk of a short circuit and a threat to humans.

Such a portable hood will be a very convenient option for those who smoke, because it will help to effectively get rid of tobacco smoke and quickly clean the air in the room.

How it works?

Thinking about installing a fan in an air duct, you need to decide on the need for this device. If the hood copes with its work, then it makes no sense to mount additional devices.

To understand how efficiently ventilation works, you can look at the following indicators:

how sweaty the windows and mirrors in the bathroom are during the shower;
damp background of the room, slow process of drying towels;
the beginning of the development of the fungus in the seams of the tiles, in the corner of the room and on the ceiling.

Mold and fungus not only destroy the finish of the room, but also negatively affect the health of the inhabitants of the apartment or house.

Checking if the ventilation is pulling air out of the room is simple - for this you can take a match and watch the movement of the flame. If it does not move, then the air duct is clogged and needs to be cleaned. With a weak movement, a weak draft can be observed, which indicates the need to install a fan. It is important to carry out such a check in optimal conditions, when cold air is blowing outside and the house is warm. It is under these conditions that there is traction and one can judge the state of the ventilation shafts. Ventilation must cope with a given amount of air in the room, so it is important to choose sufficiently powerful devices.

If you install a forced fan, you can clearly hear its noise when it is turned on. It buzzes quite noisily in case of incorrect installation, but if everything is done correctly, the sound will be almost inaudible. The noise threshold for a bathroom is 25 dB. Noise can also occur due to the strong power of the device and the high speed of the blades. When making a choice in favor of a particular product, it is important to pay attention to power indicators, because they will affect the air exchange rate, and, importantly, the performance of additional functions, such as a timer or motion sensor.

Which is better?

In order to make the right choice and install the right fan, it is important to know what exactly you need to pay attention to:

Availability of certificates and quality assurance. The device must be safe and do its job well.
The electrical parts of the hood must be placed in a plastic housing that protects them from moisture and steam.
The optimal power level to quickly remove all the air in the room, refreshing it. If the bathroom is shared, then the hood should be more powerful in order to serve two rooms at once.

Fans of modern technology will like fans with a variety of sensors, a timer.
It is important to correlate the size of the exhaust hole with the dimensions of the fan itself, so that it enters it, but does not hang out at the same time.
The choice of ventilation devices is best made among the range of well-known brands that have proven themselves in the market.
The selection of the fan is also carried out taking into account the noise of the device, which should not be higher than 25 decibels.
Selection of a good device at the best price.

The most favorable fan option would be a device that runs on ball bearings., which makes them quiet and maximizes its lifespan. It is most convenient to use a fan with a motion and humidity sensor, which turns on itself at the right time, which does not require any human intervention and provides the latter with a comfortable use of the room.

The presence of a non-return valve greatly facilitates the maintenance of the room, because no debris, dust and any small particles enter it from the outside, while everything unnecessary, harmful, and foul-smelling is constantly removed.

Self-manufacturing

If you need to install a fan in the bathroom with your own hands, then the easiest way is to purchase a suitable device for this, place it in the ventilation shaft, connect it to electricity and fix it to the wall. If possible, it is better to buy a fan that is equipped with a humidity sensor, which ensures that it turns on at the right time. The apartment usually provides for special air ducts, in which a grid is mounted for natural ventilation or a fan for forced ventilation. If there is no such design, then it must be done independently, making it in a wall opening or in the ceiling. This is true for a private house, which was built as a country house and did not involve a year-round stay.

If the bathroom has a window, this is already an opportunity to ventilate the space., but it is much more efficient to add an electrical appliance to it to quickly pump out air and saturate the room with freshness. In cases where there is no ventilation and even a window is not provided, the shaft will exit through the wall of the house along the top, towards the roof. Having mounted all the structures, you need to check how well the air flows through them, and only after that mount the fan itself. In the process of work, something can clog the channel or partially clog it, therefore it is important to check the patency of both home-made air ducts and those that were provided during construction.

The selection of the fan is made according to the existing hole in the wall. If they do not match, then you will either have to expand it or compact it. Installation is done by removing the grille and fixing all the necessary wires. You can fix the equipment with self-tapping screws or liquid nails. When everything is ready, it is necessary to install the grate in place and cover the joint between the fan and the wall with sealant.

By correctly installing the fan, you can make your stay in the bathroom comfortable and enjoyable, ensuring the safety of all coatings for a person and extending their life.

Materials and accessories

Ventilation for the bathroom and toilet may be ready-made and located in the wall, or it may be absent, then you need to mount it yourself. The choice of materials in this case plays a big role. Air ducts can have a different appearance, be round or straight. The main material for their manufacture is steel, it can have different thicknesses depending on what temperature the air will have and how much it will move.

The main parts are pipelines for the passage of air, but besides them, it is also important to use shaped parts, due to which turns and bends of structures are formed. For areas where the ventilation shaft runs from the outside, copper, textile and plastic parts can be used, which will not only have a high quality factor, but also a decorative effect.

To fix the air channels, you can use a flange, bandage, socket or sleeve. Having drawn up a plan for future ventilation and having decided on the type of fastening and future materials, you can get to work. The next important step will be the selection of the fan itself and its components.

Each ventilation system designed to purify the air must have a filter, which can be of several types:

dry porous;
porous wetted;
electric.

The choice of one or another option is dictated by the amount of dust that the ventilation systems must catch and hold.

Another accessory is a silencer, which allows you to make the operation of the fan less noticeable and louder. Usually they are made of tin in the form of two cylinders, which are separated by an absorbent material. In some cases, it is advisable to install dampers that let air in when they open and stop when they close.

By itself, a fan for a bathroom or toilet can be of four types.

Axial. Used in apartments and houses, it has high efficiency with a relatively simple installation.
Centrifugal. They are used in large industrial facilities, because the ventilation capacity of this device is very powerful and can process a huge air flow using the same energy resource.

Channel. Installed in the duct itself. These devices have a humidity and shutdown sensor. Most often, the device is placed in a plastic case, which makes it possible to use it in a sauna or pool.
Domestic. Serves for serving the kitchen or bathroom in the apartments. For such rooms, it is recommended to choose a device equipped with a non-return valve, which will not allow air from the toilet or kitchen to enter other rooms.

Based on the room, its dimensions and the preparation of the ventilation shaft, you can choose the right fan, and if necessary, make an air duct.

Installation process

To install a fan, you must follow certain instructions. Often, on the package itself with a fan, there are already some recommendations on how to properly install it. However, before you can mount something, you need to check the operability of the ventilation shaft, whether it copes well with air intake and whether it fully removes it from the room. If any problems with the air flow are found, the channels must be carefully checked and cleaned.

To install the fan, the first step is to remove the decorative grille., then try on the fan to a specific duct. It is important to fix the device in the hole with sealant or special glue, but the most reliable option is to use self-tapping screws. Once the main fastening has been done, it is important to take care that there are no small flaws left. Once everything is finished, you can put the grate in place and check the performance of the device.

If there is no ventilation shaft in the room, then it must be organized at least at a height of two meters. It is advisable to place the outlet opposite the doors or diagonally from them. This will help create the necessary air flow for active ventilation of the space. Fan performance can be selected as desired. It can turn on automatically if it has the appropriate devices, or you can activate it by turning on the switch on the fan itself or combined with the light in the bathroom.

The choice of fan must be justified so that its power is enough for the bathroom, and the design of the lattice is selected based on the appearance of the space to emphasize its style and complement it if necessary. By installing such a device, you can extend the safety of all coatings in the bathroom and ensure comfortable and safe use of both the bath and the toilet.

If the fan is installed correctly, then there should be no problems with its operation, and it will effectively cope with the amount of air intended for it in the room. However, if mistakes were made during the installation process or the work was done by an unskilled craftsman without due attention, then the first problems may appear very soon.

Before installing the fan in the shaft, it is important to check the draft in it. If it is not there or it is weak, it is advisable to clean the entire system, otherwise the problem will only worsen over time, and to clean the moves, it will be necessary to dismantle the fan. When checking the draft, it is important to do two tests at once - one with the doors and windows open, the second with the doors closed to cut off access to a source of fresh air.

A combined bathroom with a toilet requires a more powerful apparatus, therefore it is important to correctly calculate the power of the device when choosing it. Knowing the area of the entire bathroom, you can decide on the type of fan. Often, more powerful units are also larger, because they need to pump many times more air volume. When choosing a fan size, it is important to know the size of the ventilation shaft opening in advance so that you do not have to expand it or put something to fix it.

If over time, when the fan is turned on, problems begin to appear and the device does not work, you need to check the wires and the switch, if it is a trigger element. When installing the fan, it is advisable to securely fasten all cables so that they do not unwind over time, because during operation there is a slight surface fluctuation that can affect them, because over time the contacts will loosen and move away.

Proper height and location can guarantee optimal fan performance, and the cleaned air paths will allow free passage of air from the room outside it and replace it with fresh and clean air.

When choosing a fan, it is important to pay attention to many details. If a bathroom is chosen as the installation site, then the humidity level in it will be quite high, therefore it is necessary to look for markings with the letters IP, which indicate additional protection of the case from moisture and are ready for moist air masses that will pass through it.

As for power, it is recommended not to take devices with parameters less than 100 m3 / h. To save energy, the most relevant will be models equipped with a motion sensor, which turns on the device when someone appears in the bathroom or toilet and turns it off when the object disappears. If there is a desire to use the fan only if necessary, then it is better to choose a device with a humidity sensor in the room, then the fan will start its work as soon as the norm level is exceeded, and stop when the air is fresh and clean.

If there is a desire to take a shower in a well-ventilated area, you can set the timer to automatically turn on the fan, which will turn itself off at a predetermined time by the owner himself. When choosing a fan for high-rise buildings, it is very important to check the presence of a check valve that will block foreign debris and dirty air from letting it into the apartment.

Only careful selection of the device can ensure the comfort of living in an apartment or house. and the use of the bathroom and toilet in compliance with all standards of humidity, air purity and the complete absence of harmful factors that appear when such standards are not observed.

On the secrets of installing the hood in the bathroom and toilet, see below.

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: the inflow of fresh air through the living rooms and its outflow from the technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of the outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it right.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say - forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and, resulting from this, pressure drops. When mechanical ventilation is used, air movement is caused by fans.

From the point of view of an urban man, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are rather the norm. Therefore, probably, they tend to mainly make systems non-volatile, or at least redundant.

But the natural ventilation in the bathroom and bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the greater the cross-section of the duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster. This is even reflected in the SNiP: the rate of movement for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m 3 / h, for mechanical ones - from 3 to 5 m 3 / h. Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the dimensions of the channels will be different. For example, to transfer a flow of 300 m 3 / h, you will need:

Therefore, few people today manage with natural ventilation. Unless in small houses (up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with channels leading to the roof, bathrooms and toilets are ventilated using fans.

Organization rules

When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical rooms. From there, he leaves through the ventilation ducts.

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, we insulate the walls through which at least a little air enters with airtight materials. The third source - entrance doors - today, almost all have iron ones, with a rubber seal. There was, in fact, the only way - airing. But we do not abuse it at all: it blows out heat. As a result, to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room, the problem of dampness is added: there is no inflow, and the outflow is inefficient. Even forced.

If you want the ventilation to be normal, and the walls in the rooms not to “wet”, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable shutters, of various shapes and sizes, and are covered with bars from the outside. It is best to install under the windows, above or behind the batteries. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having ensured the inflow, care must be taken to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: through them, air will flow into other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and / or also make a gap of at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only if there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.

The doors of technical rooms - kitchens, bathrooms, toilets - must have ventilation grilles or valves. There are even valves with noise absorption, and the smell, if properly organized, will never get into other rooms

Calculation of fan performance for bathroom and toilet

To decide which fan to put on the bathtub with a toilet, you need to calculate the necessary air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to interfere in the calculations, its performance can be taken according to average numbers.

Air exchange rate for different rooms. With their help, ventilation is calculated in the bathroom and toilet

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom, at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or a combined bathroom, the speed should be twice as high - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The calculation of the inflow is carried out according to the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times, and the minimum values \u200b\u200bindicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of the fans is taken with at least a double margin, and even more for kitchens: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going to the bathroom with a fan with a lower capacity than 100 m 3 / h, it is better not to take it.

Choice

First of all, you need to decide where you will put the fan: in the duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. In wall-mounted versions, there can also be two types: for installation at the inlet of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street. For a channelless installation, axial-type fans are usually used - they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa; for this reason, they are not installed in channels.

In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It is good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

Connecting a fan in the bathroom

For the fan to work, power is needed and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

Connect in parallel with lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. For the toilet, this situation is normal, but for the bathroom - not always. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different way to connect the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set the time interval after which the power will turn off).

Output to a separate switch key or put a separate toggle switch / button.
Set a timer that will automatically power up according to a schedule.

The electrical part is the hardest part. You will have to punch a strobe in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, bring it to the installation site of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.

Checking the ventilation duct

Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the channel. To do this, remove the grate, if it has not been dismantled yet, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is pulled steadily towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it stretches, then bends back - the thrust is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, smells from neighbors upstairs or downstairs can get to you. Then the smell in the toilet from the ventilation is possible. Traction needs to be stabilized.

If the flame or leaf almost does not deviate, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as unpleasant odors are guaranteed throughout the apartment, and in the bathroom, so be sure.

In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private homes, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have taken it out without taking into account the wind rose and the thrust periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but it's not easy. To begin with, you can try to put a deflector (if it is not there) or slightly increase / decrease the height.

Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom

When the fan is installed while it is running, the amount of air discharged increases significantly. But due to the fact that the case covers part of the channel section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system drops.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the case and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the slot and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more on this.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to the installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

A hole must be made on the tile under the body. The easiest way is to attach a fan and outline. Then, with a special nozzle on a drill or a grinder, cut a hole of the appropriate size.
Remove the front panel from the fan. It is attached with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed, the grille was removed. Holes for fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the channel), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the place where the bolts will be.
With a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to fit the size of the dowel.
We make an incision in the tile, where we will pass the power wire.
We insert dowels.
We stretch electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, it is drilled).
We install in place, tighten the bolts.
We connect the wires.
We check the performance and install the grate.
For wooden toilets, all this is only partly true. Read about
Ventilation in the bathroom in a private house

Here the main difficulties may arise in the construction of exhaust channels. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought to the roof. This is more difficult in terms of internal wiring - you will have to pull the ducts to the right place, and also more expensive during construction. But the look is solid.

Another way to arrange ventilation ducts: bring it through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they should rise 50 cm above the ridge. But one common duct will be brought out by you or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

There is another option: to make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options presented in the photo is suitable.

In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made right in the upper part of the wall (in order for air exchange to be effective, it must be located opposite the door, obliquely, at the top). With this device, a conventional wall fan is used. The same figure shows how the number of required channels can be reduced. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are nearby, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grate. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

In the second option (pictured on the right), an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, only there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the tree will turn black after a while. If you draw a conclusion from the toilet this way, this may not happen, and in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “pull out” the air duct to the roof cut or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is a prerequisite, since it is in these rooms that the general humidity of the air is increased and unpleasant odors are usually present. If the ventilation system is not installed or does not work efficiently enough, then in the bathroom rooms not only a persistent smell will remain, but also a favorable microclimate will quickly be created for the development of mold and mildew, which are very difficult to fight.

Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise up, and if they do not find a way out, then most of the evaporation will sit on the surface of the ceiling and the upper part of the walls, where black spots of microflora colonies can most often be seen. We must not forget that any fungus reproduces by spores that are released into the air. Together with the air, they are then inhaled by households, and this can lead to allergic reactions, diseases of the respiratory system, asthma and other serious ailments.

Basically, the issue of effective implementation is faced by the owners of private houses, since in high-rise buildings this is pre-planned in the building project, and the ventilation ducts are wired to the bathroom and kitchen. However, the information can also be useful for apartment owners - the “regular” ventilation system does not always fully cope with its duties, and certain adjustments need to be made to its work.

Types of ventilation systems

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the existing ventilation systems of the premises.

Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.

Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from an area of high pressure to a lower one, that is, without the use of special instruments and devices. It is this type of ventilation that is designed in the apartments of most multi-storey buildings. The size of the ventilation windows (vents) in the bathroom and toilet (separate or combined) and in the kitchen, the configuration and throughput of the ventilation risers are designed in such a way as to create a natural movement of air from the living quarters with the required amount of air exchange.

Forced ventilation involves the installation of fans. Very often, such a system is installed in bathrooms and kitchens of private houses. However, some homeowners in high-rise buildings, wanting to improve the ventilation of the premises, install a fan in the conditions of the apartment.

In addition, forced ventilation systems are divided, depending on their main functions, into the following types:

Exhaust ventilation. In this system, air rising under the ceiling is drawn in by a fan and discharged through special channels to the street. Typically, such a scheme is used in combination with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.

For example, this illustration shows an option that is carried out by means of air intake from the street, with its further forced removal through the kitchen and sanitary facilities.

- in this system, the fan works to supply air, and its exit for a full cycle of ventilation is carried out naturally through the ventilation ducts. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is rarely used - here it is more important to create conditions for the effective exit of air to the outside in the required volume.
The supply and exhaust system implies both the injection of air into the premises, and its forced removal from them. It is typical for volumetric structures, for large-area houses, in which the possibilities of natural inflow and outflow of air are clearly not enough.

Fan types

Since the exhaust ventilation system is the most effective for a residential building, with a natural influx of air through the “clean” living quarters and its forced removal through the kitchen and bathroom, it is worth saying a few words about exhaust fans. They are divided into types according to their places of installation - these are axial, channel, roof and radial.

Axial wall (overhead) fans.

An axial fan consists of a housing in the form of a cylinder, inside which there is a wheel with cantilever blades mounted on the axis of the electric motor. When rotating, the blades capture air and activate its removal from the room.

This type of appliance is fixed in the window of the ventilation duct on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very easy to install due to a well-thought-out design, and looks quite aesthetically pleasing, so it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private house and in apartment conditions.

Duct fans.

Inline axial fans are used in household practice not so long ago and not as widely as overhead axial fans, since their independent installation is rather complicated. However, sometimes they cannot be dispensed with, for example, in cases where the area of the ventilated room is more than 15 m².

Duct fans are also installed in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the operation of the device in the bathroom or other rooms of a private house.

This type of fan can be installed in various parts of the ventilation duct. It is placed in a special box-shaped case, or it can itself be a connecting element for two parts of the ventilation pipe. It is very important that the device is freely accessible, as it must be periodically cleaned and lubricated.

There are three types of air ducts in which duct fans are installed - they are flexible, semi-rigid and rigid.

Flexible channels are mounted quite easily, so they are chosen most often. However, they are less reliable and have a much shorter service life than rigid or semi-rigid ducts. A zealous owner will certainly make a choice in favor of reliability.

Radial fans.

The radial fan consists of a motor located on the axis of rotation of a wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box, which has a characteristic spiral shape.

During operation, the fan blades begin to rotate, capturing air from the room, which from the fan enters through the outlet of the casing into the duct.

For installation in residential buildings, it is recommended to choose radial fans with backward-curved blades. Although they have slightly lower pressure ratings, such devices are distinguished by better “linearity” in adjustments, a large operating range and, most importantly, are not as noisy as compared to fans with forward-curved blades.

Radial fans tolerate high loads well and are quite economical in operation.

Roof fans.

As you can already understand from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of multi-apartment and private residential buildings.

The design of the roof fan includes such elements as a motor, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration isolating (damper) pads, and an auto-regulation device.

The roof fan can be of axial, multi-bladed or radial design. The latter is the most in demand, as it is the least whimsical and provides high performance with minimal energy costs.

Forced ventilation systems can operate both in automatic and manual modes, have one pumping level or several speeds.

Unregulated ventilation has only two regime positions: "on" and "off".
A system that has several speeds that are selected by a switch will become more flexible.
Variable speed fans are the most economical in operation, in which the impeller is given a rotational speed corresponding to the required current load on the system. The change in speed occurs quite smoothly, with the help of special automatic control and management units.

Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation

It's time to move on to the issue of choosing the necessary and the toilet. But immediately the main question will arise about its most important characteristic - performance, that is, the ability to pump a certain amount of air per unit time.

It will be difficult to understand this aspect if, for a start, you do not familiarize yourself with the basic standards for the organization of ventilation in a residential building or apartment.

It is necessary to rely on this issue on the main guiding documents - the relevant sections and annexes of SNiP 41-01-2003 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.08.01-89 * (“Residential buildings”).

According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system must be installed in those rooms where it is necessary according to sanitary standards, but there is no natural ventilation, that is, a window or window, or normal ventilation is not enough.

In order not to refer the reader to the SNiP tables, the following is a summary of the information that will be required to calculate ventilation.

Room type	Ventilation rates		Notes
	Air intake from outside	Exhaust air outside
Residential premises	The air exchange rate is not less than 0.35 times / hour, but at the same time the intake is not less than 30 m³ per person.	-	The calculation is based on the total volume of the entire apartment (house) or on the number of people actually living
Residential premises	3 m³ for every 1 m² of living space	-	The calculation is based on the area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises of the house
Kitchen
with electric stove	-	Not less than 60 m³/hour
with 2 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 60 m³/hour
with 3 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 75 m³/hour
with 4 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 90 m³/hour
Bathroom	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 25 m³/hour
Separate restroom	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 25 m³/hour
Bathroom combined (bathroom + toilet) individual	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 50 m³/hour

There are, of course, norms in SNiP for more specific visits: dryers, ironing, dedicated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, they are not of particular interest to us - we will talk about average apartments or houses. You can completely limit yourself to the values \u200b\u200bgiven above.

But why do we need to know the indicators of natural supply ventilation in the premises of a residential area? But the fact is that an apartment or a house should be considered as a single balanced "organism". To be effective, and the bathroom, toilet and kitchen rooms are constantly ventilated with air coming from the living area, the exhaust devices installed in them must be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of air drawn out cannot be less than the incoming one. There is such a thing as the air balance equation, and when choosing ventilation units, it is necessary to strive for its maximum observance.

∑Qadj. = ∑Qvy.

∑Qadj.- the required total volume of air supplied with supply ventilation.

∑Qout.- the required performance of exhaust ventilation.

Failure to comply with this equality in one direction or another can cause undesirable consequences - stagnation of air, the penetration of odors from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom into living rooms, the accumulation of dampness in the corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.

Constantly misted windows are a sign of poor ventilation.

The ever-wet surface of the glass on the windows is half the trouble, only an external sign of a rather serious problem. , and what needs to be done in this case - read in a special publication of our portal.

To determine the right side of our equation, we will have to carry out calculations for the required air flow.

The most correct approach would be to calculate according to three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each resident, according to the frequency of air exchange by the volume of the entire house or apartment, and according to the standards for each meter of living space. Then it remains to compare the results and choose the maximum indicator - it will become the required value of air flow for high-quality ventilation.

Well, then, based on the value obtained, it will be possible to proceed to the distribution of volumes of forced exhaust ventilation in order to achieve the desired equality.

For example, the calculation for a house with a total area of 120 square meters.

Do you have problems with the area calculation?

Usually the area is easiest to take from the existing house plan. If for some reason it is not there, but you will have to calculate it yourself. In a special publication of the portal, various examples are considered - from the simplest rectangular rooms to rooms of an unusual complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are placed for quick and accurate calculation.

For the convenience of calculations, you can make a small table:

House premises	Air intake from outside			Outlet to the street
Other data and calculation progress	According to sanitary standards for living people	According to the frequency of air exchange from the total volume of premises	According to the norms per 1 m² of usable area	Set minimum	Required in the real world
Number of residents	5 people	-	-	-	-
Living room	-	21 m²	21 m²	-	-
Bedroom 1	-	16 m²	16 m²	-	-
Bedroom 2	-	14 m²	14 m²	-	-
Children's	-	17 m²	17 m²	-	-
Dining room	-	15 m²	15 m²	-	-
Kitchen (gas stove 4 burners)	-	12 m²	-	90 m³ / hour	150 m³ / hour
Hallway	-	5 m²	-	-	-
Hall	-	9 m²		-	-
Corridor	-	3 m²	-	-	-
Bathroom	-	6 m²	-	25 m³/h	50 m³ / hour
bathroom	-	2 m²	-	25 m³/h	50 m³ / hour
Total area	-	120 m²	83 m²	-	-
Ceiling height	-	3.1 m	-	-	-
Volume in total	-	120 × 3.1 = 372 m³	-	-	-
established norm	30 m³/hour	0.35 times/hour	3 m³/1 m²	-	-
Calculation	5 x 30 = 150	372 x 0.35 = 130.2	83 x 3 = 249	90 + 25 + 25 = 140	150 + 50 + 50 = 250
Need for standards	150 m³/h	130.2 m³/h		140 m³/h

So, out of the three calculated values, we accept the maximum - 249 m³ / h, since it fully meets all the conditions. We round it up to 250 m³ / h, and bring to this value the total exhaust ventilation performance in the kitchen, in the bathroom and in the bathroom.

The kitchen should be given more - it has a larger area and ventilation standards in this room are tougher. In our case, it can take 150 m³ / hour. This can be a total of ventilation + kitchen, but only if the hood works with air being removed to the outside, and not on the principle of recirculation.

The remaining 100 m³ / h can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and the toilet (if it is planned to install axial fans individual for each room). Or, in the case when these rooms are combined with one exhaust system, you can install a common duct or radial fan of appropriate capacity. It is obvious that such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite sufficient in comparison with the minimum standards, even with a good margin.

So, all the conditions are fully met, and the required performance of the ventilation unit has also already been determined.

Other criteria for choosing a bathroom and toilet fan

It is very important to know what else you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:

The level of noise generated during operation. The operation of any ventilation device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound vibrations propagate through the air, through air ducts and wall surfaces inside which they are laid.

Mechanical noise arises from the vibration of the impeller with blades, the electric motor and the casing in which the entire structure is installed.

Aerodynamic noise appears as a result of vortex formation inside the casing at the impeller, at the inlet and outlet of air, when it moves through the air ducts, and also during the occurrence of pulsations.

Increased vibration and noise of the ventilation unit can adversely affect the well-being of the residents of an apartment or house.

Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain restrictions on the generated noise pressure, and this parameter itself must be indicated in the product passport (often even within a certain range of distance from the device).

If a fan is purchased with the ability to adjust the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then preference should be given to a device that will cope with the necessary task of extracting the required air volume not at its maximum, but by about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 of its inherent capabilities. So the equipment will last longer, and the noise level will decrease significantly - high speeds are most often the main cause of noise.

It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one design or another on many fans - be sure to take this into account when choosing.

Another important point in reducing the noise level is the installation of a fan with straight sections provided to stabilize the air flow, reducing turbulent phenomena. For a duct or radial fan, it is desirable to leave such sections on both sides (for an axial, of course, this is impossible to fully observe). The length of each such section must be at least 1.5 of the outer diameter of the impeller (turbine).

Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.

Axial conventional fans can be operated manually, or they are built into the general lighting system of the room, that is, when the light is turned on, the exhaust fan also turns on.

The latter option is more convenient and economical, but some caution is required here so that when the device is turned off, the entire ventilation system of the house as a whole does not suffer. The outflow of air from the residential area in the minimum required volume must be ensured at all times.

The automatic design of the device assumes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer, on which the turn-on time, operating modes and the fan off time are set.

Device safety. Since the fan is powered by electricity, devices protected from moisture are selected for bathrooms, on the packaging of which there should be a corresponding label.

When choosing a fan, it is worth checking the availability of a quality certificate for the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices necessarily in specialized stores, preferably models of well-known manufacturers, the brand of which in itself gives a certain guarantee for the products. Do not hesitate to ask for the necessary sales marks in the product passport to ensure further warranty and service maintenance.

TOP 9 best bathroom fans

	Name	Rating
The best overhead fans
#1	Vents VNV-1 80 KV	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Cata E-120 GTH	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Electrolux EAFR	⭐ 97 / 100 1 - voice
#4	Soler & Palau Silent-100 CZ Design	⭐ 96 / 100
Best duct fans
#1	Blauberg Turbo 315	⭐ 99 / 100 1 - voice
#2	Vents Quietline 100	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Era Profit 5	⭐ 97 / 100
The best backlit fans
#1	Cata E-100 GLT	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Blauberg Lux 125	⭐ 98 / 100

Self-installation of ventilation

Installing a fan in the bathroom or toilet of an apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system in multi-storey buildings is already installed, and the device will only increase the extraction of exhaust air along with unpleasant odors and humidity.

It is more difficult to install a ventilation system in a private house. But doing it yourself is also quite possible. Of course, it is best to install all the elements of the system at the construction stage, but it is often necessary to carry out these installation work in an already finished building.

Elements of the ventilation system

If the type of ventilation system is determined, then it is necessary to prepare all the elements necessary for it according to previously taken dimensions.

The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into the wall or ceiling, as well as into the air duct. The device is usually built into the air duct in the case of the planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even separated) from each other, then in each of the rooms it will be possible to arrange its own ventilation hole, from which ducts or pipes are removed, which are then connected to a single duct equipped with a duct or radial roof fan.
Air ducts can be made of plastic or metal, have a round or rectangular cross section. Each of them has its own advantages, for example, a rectangular version is more convenient to mount to a ceiling or wall, it can ideally be located above a false or stretch ceiling. The round section provides more efficient air removal, as it does not have internal corners that hinder its smooth movement or cause turbulence.

Rectangular air ducts are easier to attach to walls and flow, but round ones are less “noisy”

Swivel elbows are used when using rigid boxes. They are installed in complex structures, when changing the direction of the air ducts, when exiting through a wall or ceiling, and in other cases, in accordance with the installation plan.
Couplings are used to interface individual sections of the duct.
A non-return damper is installed in order to avoid backflow of air when the fan is off, or, for example, when there is strong wind outside.
Elements for fixing air ducts. To do this, you can use homemade or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500 ÷ 700 mm, depending on the location.
Ventilation grilles installed on the inlet and outlet of the system will be required in cases where a duct fan is selected, installed between two parts of the duct. One ventilation grill will be needed to mount it on the outlet of the system when installing an overhead axial fan.

Installation of the ventilation system

The installation of the ventilation system is carried out in different ways, depending on the chosen design, and on whether it is being updated or reinstalled. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation, a detailed diagram should be drawn up, according to which it will be easier to work.

If it is decided to upgrade an already installed ventilation system, it is best, if possible, to replace the air duct with a new one. In the event that this cannot be done, it will be necessary to carefully clean the old duct from debris and deposits on the stacks.
Before laying the ventilation duct, you must first determine the installation location of the fan. The best place to install the device will be the wall opposite the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural intake of air in the form of a draft.
The next step is to cut a new one in the wall or, if necessary, expand the existing ventilation window to the desired size.
The ventilation duct is brought out into the arranged hole, then it is gradually mounted, laid in accordance with the scheme and fixed in the attic of the building, or it is carried out through the attic floor and roof.
If the channel is brought outside through the outer wall, then it is recommended to install a pipe into the ventilation hole from the side of the street, which is raised vertically by at least 500 ÷ 1000 mm. If only a protective grill is installed on the through hole, then the room will not have time to heat up when the heating system is operating - all the heat will quickly leave through the ventilation through the draft.

The ventilation pipe leading through the roof of the building requires a reliable waterproofing device. For this purpose, you can use special waterproofing cuffs that are put on the pipe and fixed on the roof.

Another option for installing the system is to mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugated pipe) that connects to an outlet covered by a protective grill installed under the roof soffit. This installation method is possible both in combination with a suspended ceiling and without it, since the box may well pass through the attic.

In the case of installing a complex ventilation system, when the bathroom rooms are separated, and the ventilation needs to be connected to one common duct, you can proceed as shown in this diagram. Inserts with branch pipes are installed in the common ventilation duct, which will go into the rooms through the false ceiling, and the air duct itself can be brought outside through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, ducted or installed from the side of the street and closed with a special casing.

After holding and fixing the air ducts, you need to carefully install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and fixed on the wall in a convenient and, of course, reliable way in each specific case. The presence of vibration loads should be taken into account, so that the fasteners do not loosen over time.
Before finally fixing the overhead axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. It is recommended to enclose the wire connecting the fan with the switch in a special plastic cable channel fixed on the wall, which can be placed along the ceiling or hidden above the suspended structure.

The fan is connected to the power supply through the connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing to prevent active exposure to high humidity.

Depending on the design, the terminal block is located in different ways, but the connection diagram is always attached to the fan, which will help you navigate this issue.

If it is decided to connect the fan to the light switch, then this switching should be carried out approximately as shown in this diagram:

Connection in this way is carried out in a junction box specially installed for this, where, using the terminal, the “zero” and “phase” wires of the fan and lighting are connected, respectively. The “phase” is interrupted on the switch, and from it there is already a connection to both devices.

By the way, if you think about it carefully, then such a scheme is very irrational. We simulate the situation - a person took a bath or shower, dried himself, got dressed, left the bathroom and turned off the light behind him. During this time, excess moisture is unlikely to be completely drawn out by the fan, and the room remains "steam column". The situation is similar with the use of the restroom. It would be wiser to provide a time delay for such a connection, at least for 5 ÷ 10 minutes, by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.

By the way, if you wish, you can find on sale electronic timer devices for controlling light and ventilation, designed specifically for these purposes.

When installing a duct fan, it is necessary to carefully consider connecting it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation duct is planned to run through the attic. An electric cable will need to be laid through the ceiling, and along its entire length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the ceiling, must be securely insulated.

If the system is mounted under the ceiling of the premises, then the air duct together with the fan can be hidden above the false ceiling. In this case, the ventilation hole can be arranged in the ceiling, where the air duct is led out and fixed, and then cover this window with a decorative and functional grille.

Video: how to install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet yourself

Checking the Installed System

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such control, no tools are required - just bring a piece of paper or a lit candle to the grate of the switched on fan. If the paper sheet is attracted to the grate, and the flame of the candle leans towards it, then we can say that the fan is working quite efficiently.

If it is necessary to increase traction, then a small artificial draft can be stimulated. To do this, a narrow slit-like window is cut out at the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes are drilled. These cutouts are then closed on both sides with a specially designed ventilation grille. It, depending on the design and type of holes made, is inserted into the through opening, can be glued to the door or screwed with self-tapping screws.

In the bathroom and toilet, condensation forms more strongly than in other rooms, and unpleasant odors appear. Therefore, the arrangement of proper ventilation is essential here. A high-quality extract contributes to the normalization of the indoor microclimate, ensures its compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards and requirements.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet avoids the appearance of dampness and fungus. This contributes to the normal well-being of people living in the house. Finishing, plumbing, furniture, which is located in such premises, will last much longer. All work can be done independently. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the existing rules for creating ventilation in the toilet and bathroom.

Ventilation Requirements

Proper ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the important factors that allow you to fully exploit the premises. It is as important as heating, lighting and water supply. The quality of the equipped ventilation depends on the compliance of the oxygen environment inside the dwelling with the existing requirements.

The bathroom and toilet are enclosed, poorly ventilated areas. Here there is an increased probability of reproduction of pathogenic bacteria and fungi. SNiP establishes air exchange indicators. Its intensity per hour should be 25 m³ for the bathroom. The air flow per hour for a combined bathroom should be 50 m³.

To check the operation of the hood, you need to bring a burning match to the ventilation grill. If the flame is not drawn in by the channel, then the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is not functioning. In old-style multi-storey buildings, such a picture is observed due to clogging of the channel. If a similar problem is detected in a new house, then the system was designed incorrectly.

The best solution to the problem would be the arrangement of a new forced ventilation. Such a system has many advantages over passive exhaust. It is able to quickly solve the problem of dampness and the appearance of fungus, an unpleasant odor in such rooms.

Air exchange type

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, which options are offered to property owners today, can be natural and artificial. In ordinary multi-storey buildings built in the last century, the first type of system is used. From windows and doors, fresh air in this case enters the room. Then it exits through the ventilation ducts.

The movement of air masses during natural ventilation is achieved due to the pressure difference between indoors and outdoors. In modern apartments, windows and doors are characterized by high levels of tightness. This disrupts the natural circulation of air in the room. Therefore, when purchasing new plastic windows and sealed doors, it is necessary to provide for the presence of ventilation devices in them.

Forced or artificial ventilation requires special equipment. It is built into the air exchange system. There are a large number of different fans for forced ventilation. They relieve pressure inside the bathroom and toilet. Air is pulled out. This process leads to the flow of oxygen into these rooms from other rooms.

The arrangement of forced exhaust in the bathroom can solve the problem of inefficient natural ventilation. It requires more time and cost during installation. Over time, the effort spent is fully compensated. All interior items and decoration in such rooms last much longer than with a natural type of air exchange. Human health will not be threatened by various pathogenic microorganisms. Therefore, forced extraction is preferable today.

Types of ventilation

Sanitation and building codes state that forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is preferable. However, it should be noted that there are several other features by which such systems are distinguished.

According to the purpose, supply, exhaust and mixed ventilation are distinguished. In the first case, additional equipment provides fresh air into the room. This creates excess pressure. It forces the old air masses to leave the room through the outlet ventilation ducts.

The exhaust type of the system provides for the presence of a fan directly on the channel shaft. In some cases, a combined method is used. It assumes both types of arrangement of systems.

Ventilation also differs in design. There is a channel and channelless hood. The second option involves the movement of air masses through equipped holes in the walls between rooms. For example, it can be the ventilation of the bathroom through the toilet or vice versa. In one of these rooms there is an exit to the exhaust shaft common throughout the house. Air from the second room first enters the first room through a hole in the wall, and after that the mixed masses leave the apartment through the channel.

However, duct ventilation is more efficient. It involves bringing the exhaust shaft directly to rooms with high humidity. This ensures complete air exchange in the bathroom.

Fan type

Forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet involves the use of additional equipment. It may vary in installation method and design. Fans provide sufficient air exchange rate for combined and separate bathrooms.

According to the installation method, equipment of radial and channel type is distinguished. In the first case, the fan is mounted at the shaft outlet. Its body has an aesthetic body. Channel varieties are installed directly in the mine itself.

According to the type of design, a diametrical, axial, centrifugal and centrifugal-axial fan is distinguished. In the first version, the product has a drum-type impeller. This design has a low efficiency. An axial fan pumps air through the blades. Such equipment is applicable for ductless ventilation.

The centrifugal fan has a spiral housing. This is the most productive, but also the noisiest equipment. The centrifugal axial fan has the highest performance. It is compact, efficient and has a low noise level. Today, equipment has appeared on sale in which humidity sensors are built in, a timer. This allows you to ventilate the room as efficiently as possible.

ventilation duct

There are certain requirements on how to make (ventilation in the bathroom and toilet with your own hands must be done with high accuracy) the right system. They must be considered before starting work.

The ventilation duct in a private house works simply. It is attached to special equipment or is displayed on the roof. This is an easy job. The creation of the project must be completed at the stage of preparation for the construction of the building.

The highest quality ventilation is obtained in houses made of natural wood. This is due to the ability of the material to "breathe". In this case, it will be enough to equip natural ventilation. The construction of logs and timber is considered not only beautiful, but also practical.

Owners of apartments in multi-storey buildings need to devote more time and attention to the arrangement of ventilation. All apartments in the entrance communicate with a common shaft, through which the air leaves the house to the street. If, for example, a bath and a toilet are one room (there is no forced ventilation), according to the norms of SNiP, air exchange per hour in the amount of 50 m³ is required. The higher the apartment is in the house, the more likely it is that this indicator will meet the established level.

Over time, the channels in apartment buildings become clogged. If they have not been cleaned for a long time, air exchange during natural ventilation is difficult. The lower the apartment is in the house, the worse the hood is. In this case, the installation of forced ventilation is simply necessary.

Fan power

To understand how to make (ventilation in the bathroom and forced-type toilet - one of the possible options in this case) an exhaust hood in the bathroom, you should consider the basic requirements for creating such a system. In this case, it is planned to install an electric small-sized fan. This device must be secure. It should not fail if steam or water enters the structural elements. You should also pay attention to the noise level of the fan. He should not annoy the owners of the house.

Particular attention is paid to the choice of equipment power. This indicator is influenced by the dimensions of the bathroom and the number of people permanently residing in the house. For calculations, it is necessary to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom and toilet. Further, the result is multiplied by 6 if the number of users does not exceed 3 people. If there are 4 or more people in the family, then the dimensions of the bathroom are multiplied by 8. The result obtained will be the optimal fan power.

Fan installation rules

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bathroom and toilet requires the correct installation of all elements of the system. There are several requirements for the location of equipment in the room.

The ventilation duct should be at the maximum height, preferably under the ceiling. It should also be located as far as possible from the source of air inflow in the bathroom. If this requirement is not met, only part of the room will be ventilated.

For forced ventilation, it is important to install the fan away from the water source. This will prevent accidental splashes.

If there is no ventilation in the room, and the exhaust duct is located in an adjacent room, it will be necessary to provide for the installation of additional ducts and pipelines. There are rigid plastic and movable corrugated structures.

Mounting methods

Most often, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet does not require the construction of additional air ducts. It is enough to install the selected fan at the entrance to the mine. In this case, the common exhaust duct should be located immediately behind the wall of the bathroom or shared bathroom.

It happens that the ventilation duct shaft is located behind the wall in the toilet. If it is separated from the bathroom by a partition, a hole can be made through it. Ventilation grilles are installed on both sides of the wall. This will be quite enough to create the required air exchange.

If there is access to the shaft both in the toilet and in the bathroom, separate ventilation should be made for each room.

One of the most effective approaches is the installation of gratings with slots at the entrance to the mine for the installation of forced ventilation equipment. In this case, the natural and intensive systems are combined.

Preparing for installation

At the renovation planning stage, a project is created in which ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is thought out. The advice of experienced builders will allow you to prepare and install correctly. Planning will allow you to hide the wires under the wall decoration, calculate the required characteristics of the equipment, as well as the location of all elements of the system.

If ventilation is created in a multi-storey apartment building, you should be responsible for cleaning the mine channel. If the property owners live on the upper floors, you can do this work yourself. On the roof is the exit of the exhaust shaft. You need to lower the weight into it. If the owners of the apartment live on the lower floors, it will not be possible to do without the help of representatives of the Housing Office or special services.

In a private house, it will be easier to clean the ventilation duct. Over time, dirt, cobwebs, debris from the roof, etc. also accumulate here. Having acquired all the necessary elements of the system, you can proceed with the installation.

Fan mounting

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is easy to install. First, an electrical wire is connected to the equipment of the forced type of the system. It is selected in accordance with the selected fan power. Also, such conductors must have a high insulation class.

The fan is installed in a place prepared for it. It is attached with self-tapping screws. The grid is also installed using a special fastening material. This will eventually unscrew the grate and clean it from contamination.

If an additional ventilation duct is being arranged inside the room, it is possible to sew up the pipes under the ceiling with drywall. So the appearance of the room will be aesthetic.

Having considered what ventilation is in the bathroom and toilet, as well as the rules for its installation, each owner of an apartment or a private house will be able to create a complete system in the bathroom on their own.

We are used to monitoring the quality of the food we eat and the water we drink. However, few people pay enough attention to the air we breathe. Meanwhile, clean air is as important for our body as water and food. With the constantly deteriorating ecology and the widespread gas contamination of large cities, banal ventilation of the premises will not work. In such conditions, the best way out will be the installation of ventilation.

Air purity and the absence of harmful impurities in it are needed to prevent headaches, drowsiness, dizziness, and also to prevent allergic reactions.

The need for ventilation in the bathroom

In the bathroom, ventilation is just as important as in other rooms, and perhaps even more so. The fact is that steam and moist air constantly accumulate in the bathroom, and it is the humidity that most contributes to the appearance of mold.

Mold can settle in the lungs and lead to serious respiratory diseases, causing asthma, allergies, etc. It is harmful not only to the human body, but also gradually destroys all objects and materials, but which is formed, up to concrete. Therefore, the installation of a normally functioning ventilation system is not a whim, but a necessity.

Requirements and norms

All requirements and norms for ventilation of premises are prescribed in the section "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning" SNiP 41-01-2003.

According to this document, artificial ventilation is required in the premises if, due to polluted air or natural conditions, the required sanitary standards are not observed due to the lack of natural ventilation or if simple ventilation is not enough.

The permissible level of dust and harmful substances in the air is prescribed in the sanitary and epidemiological rules. Thus, with regard to carbon dioxide, the maximum allowable amount of carbon dioxide in rural areas is 650 mg/m3, in small towns - 800 mg/m3, and in large cities - 1,000 mg/m3. At the same time, the rate of air exchange per person is 28 m3/h. Excess carbon dioxide can cause shortness of breath, dry cough, runny nose and other negative effects on the body.

Types of ventilation systems

Most often, types of ventilation are distinguished depending on its purpose. So, allocate:

exhaust ventilation, which removes the exhaust air through the exhaust ducts. Such ventilation is convenient to use when it is possible to combine natural and mechanical ventilation.
Forced ventilation, which, due to the intake of fresh air, creates additional pressure, displacing the exhaust air.
Mixed ventilation which combines both principles of operation.

In addition, there is ventilation often divided into natural and forced.

natural ventilation- the ventilation that is initially designed and installed during the construction of the premises. The most typical ventilation scheme for a bathroom and toilet in apartments and residential buildings is such a scheme in which the bath is connected to the toilet using a ventilation window, and air is already removed from the toilet to the common ventilation duct of the house.
Forced ventilation- this is ventilation that is installed by the owner of the home at will and which involves the use of an extractor fan or a fan.

Health check

Checking the correct operation of your ventilation system is much easier than you think. You won't need any additional tools. Just light and hold a burning match or a small piece of paper to the ventilation grill. If the flame fluctuates, the ventilation works.

Another way to check the operation of ventilation is that you will need to arrange a draft in the room by slightly opening the window and door in the bathroom, and attach a piece of thin paper or, for example, a napkin to the ventilation grill. The napkin must also either stick to the grate if the ventilation is normally taking in air, or it must be blown off the grate by the air flow coming from the ventilation duct. If the napkin just falls down - it's time to change the ventilation.

Try to solve the problem of poor ventilation by widening the gap between the door and the floor. This will create the necessary thrust for the normal operation of ventilation. You can also try mounting an additional ventilation grille in the door or wall.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system in the bathroom and toilet

In private residential buildings, separate ventilation ducts are usually designed for each room separately: for the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. With the help of the hood, the exhaust air is discharged through such channels to the roof.

In apartment buildings, a typical ventilation system is usually used, in which all ventilation ducts are combined into one common duct that goes to the roof. Ventilation is based on traction arising from temperature differences.

If we are talking about forced ventilation, then special ventilation systems are installed with sensitive elements that open and close dampers as needed.

Causes of poor performance of the ventilation system

There may be several reasons why your ventilation system may not work properly:

Errors in planning the ventilation system of the entire building: both during calculations and directly during installation.
Accumulation of various debris in the ventilation ducts.
Damage to the ventilation system of neighboring apartments, for example, during repairs, which caused a violation of the movement of air flows in the ventilation.

Before installing a new ventilation, try to deal with the old one. Perhaps your problem can be solved by simply cleaning the air duct.

Fan Requirements

As a rule, when installing a fan, it is necessary to pay attention to the following parameters:

Low noise level when the fan is running (no more than 30 dB);
Sufficient distance from electric heaters;
High-quality insulation of electrical wires in conditions of high humidity;
The power of the fan used must be selected taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the number of people living in the apartment;
A complete change of air in the room should occur at least five times per hour.

Types of fans

Main types of fans:

connected to the switch and work when the light is on in the bathroom or toilet;
equipped with special sensors, and turn on automatically when the permissible level of humidity in the room is exceeded;
equipped with a timer, in which you can independently set the time of its operation.

In addition, fans differ in design features:

Axial is the simplest model. They are also called propellers.
Radial- provide high pressure in the room. They can have straight, backward, curved backward and curved forward blades.
Diagonal– mixture of axial and radial fans.
diametral fans can work with large volumes of air due to the fact that air flows pass around the entire perimeter of the impeller.

Determine the location where your fan will be placed. The best location for the fan is the wall opposite the door.

Mount the fan in the opening of the ventilation duct, widening the opening to the required diameter if necessary.

Carefully route the electrical wires from the fan so that they are minimally exposed to moisture and not visible.

Connect the fan to the switch.

Fix the fan itself and its grill either with liquid nails or self-tapping screws.

To reduce the noise produced by a running fan, place an additional layer of sealant between the fan and the wall when mounting the fan.

Ventilation options: through the bathroom to the toilet or through the toilet to the bathroom

As a rule, the air vent is located in the toilet. There are two ways to organize ventilation between the toilet and the bathroom: either lay a separate ventilation pipe from the bathroom to the air vent in the ceiling space, for example, or install two separate fans: one in the wall between the bathroom and the toilet, and the other in the toilet, to the air vent .

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Ventilation options: through the bathroom to the toilet or through the toilet to the bathroom