All dimensions of the trailer giving a drop. A vintage trailer is a drop of unnecessary parts and production waste - just a subbotnik in anvir!!! History and essence of structures

Homemade cottage trailer made from a car trailer: a photo of the construction of a camper with a detailed description, also a video in which a motorhome is shown.

We decided to build a small residential house on wheels in order to go to nature in our car. Since we didn’t have camper drawings, we decided to make a removable module for the factory trailer (so that there were no problems with re-registering the vehicle).

Bought for this boat trailer of the Kurgan plant(only they don’t specify in the TCP what kind of trailer it is. just a trailer, other manufacturers indicate that this is a boat trailer and you can’t put a house on it).

The dimensions of the module corresponded to the dimensions of the trailer - 1400 x 2400 mm. Naturally, the removable module must be durable, and for our roads a plywood house will definitely not work, we had to weld a steel frame.

The base is welded from a 60 x 30 mm profile, the walls and ceiling from a 20 x 20 mm profile. On the pipe bender, 2 identical arcs were bent.

The most difficult thing was to think over the doors, it took us 1/3 of the time spent on the doors. Anyone who was interested in this topic saw factory doors, ventilation hatches, gas stoves, sinks, heaters, etc. on American trailers. etc. There is only one problem: cost. one factory door costs about 700-800 bucks (and you need 2 of them), a sunroof with an exhaust hood is about 300-400 bucks, I didn’t even look at the sinks and stoves, and so it became clear that we would choose from what we would find in household stores .

As a result, the doors were made by ourselves, because with our course the budget for the doors alone went out more than 100 thousand (on alik, ebee, in Europe, America, Russian online stores - the prices are about the same).
Doors decided to do with power windows, because. This is the easiest way in our opinion. It makes no sense to describe the whole process, I will only say that making the doors was very dreary. but at cost they came out 5 rubles each door, taking into account everything. the savings were worth it
Outside, the case was sheathed with 0.8 mm aluminum sheets, they were looking for specially large sheets so that they could be covered with one sheet without joints. As a result, we found AMTs2 sheets measuring 1500 x 3000 mm, which suited us perfectly.

Now I would choose a composite material for cladding buildings, 4 mm thick (who doesn’t know, these are 2 sheets of aluminum 0.4 mm, and between them a special composite that ideally withstands all weather conditions).

They glued aluminum onto a plywood substrate, riveted around the perimeter and sealed all joints. It was possible to leave the trailer aluminum, but initially they wanted blue on the outside, so they ordered a vinyl film for wrapping the vehicle in a printing house and fitted it on top.
Many people ask about the refrigerator. There is no refrigerator, and there cannot be, because. The module is removable and has its own car battery. The wiring of the module is completely autonomous, and is not connected to the wiring of the car and the trailer in any way. Therefore, you can't connect a refrigerator here. Although I do not understand the problem if it can be put in the trunk of a car.
We also made 2 220V sockets in the residential area, a 400W inverter, enough for charging and for a TV. Lighting is LED throughout.

Water is supplied from a canister by a fountain pump, not very powerful, but economical.
They made a niche for the countertop under the kitchen, it seemed very convenient, but in fact the top and bottom ribs were from a 15 x 15 profile, a very flexible and not reliable profile. As a result, the niche bent a little and the chipboard table did not fit in there, it had to be made of plywood.
After assembly, the trailer was tested by Karcher at all joints, slots, etc. 100% tightness.

The cost of building a cottage trailer.

We started building the camper in May 2015 and finished in June 2016. We work with a friend in shifts, i.e. per week 2-3-4 days could devote to the trailer. Very hung with the decoration of the kitchen and doors. If you expect to collect in 3 months - plus a triple time.

In terms of finances: everything was bought new, nothing used was used. The trailer itself cost 44 thousand, and about 110 thousand was spent on materials. fixed everything, up to the gloves, so the price is close to the real one. You can do it cheaper, but you should know in advance.

By weight: trailer + module weighs about 600 kg, the module itself is about 460-480 kg. A large amount of chipboard added gravity, who will do it - look for lighter material for partitions.

The passenger car 1.4 Octavia drags the trailer with a bang. On the highway, it accelerated to 130 km / h, the trailer is not felt at all, the streamlined shape practically does not slow down. consumption increases by 1-2 liters. On a bad road, more than 90 is difficult to drive, after all, the weight is not small, it twitches the car. But 80-90 is quite acceptable for such a trailer. I drove through the fields, along dirt roads, the trailer never struck anywhere.

Video, which tells in detail about a homemade mobile home.

It was decided to carry out a global cleaning of the company. But, take everything and throw it away, somehow the hand does not rise. What to do? Why not build another trailer? And who said that he must be "off-road"?

A decision was made to build a vintage tiardrop (drop trailer).

An example of what can happen is taken from the Internet:

And so where to start? From the wheels - the tires were left from some Kruzak, but with white letters. The wheel arch will go iron - I bought it in reserve - I didn’t need it (it was too small). The disk will be cast with thick spokes - old ones from my 80th cruiser.

Springs from Loaf (new sample), just for a trailer from waste. The battery lying around from Jim will also fit.

Shock absorbers 4 pcs. left over from an unsuccessful experiment with pneuma - into action.

There is a wheel axle. Without brakes. At one time, I made Mochalov Lesha as a spare wheel for the Olenin project - it was not required. I'm thinking about lowering it by about 10 centimeters.

The lock on the back door from the Volga. Was lost when moving, but now found in time

Removable and even a swivel support stand - in business. So far, too, it was not required, because. She has no wheel.

Stainless steel sink. Somewhat cut, but with a drain under 90gr. - in business

Watering can from some old boiler. The submersible water pump is from my ancient Hobbik. For water from the dacha, I will bring simple plastic cans of 80 and 60 liters.

Trimming countertops will also find their use

The remnants of the bamboo linen will create coziness in the children's compartment.

Scraps of various types of insulation will find their home in the walls / floor / ceiling.

On the body, let's put composite trimmings and wood from transport boxes and broken pallets.

The layout of the cabin will be as follows:

Body size will be decent! Preliminary dimensions width 1800/ height 1200/ length 3300mm

The width of the trailer itself is almost 2.5 meters!!! :)

The wheel axle is too small. But still ditch her. It is planned to lower by 100-150 mm.

Nishtyachok for street lighting during parking. I got flashlights with candle lighting in the store! :) I think it will be in the subject. Zinc burnt with a gas burner. Let it rust.

Here's what happened:

Hello, friends! Today I would like to discuss with you a rather interesting drop trailer. This is not quite the usual design of a trailer familiar to many of you.

Here we are talking about a small residential unit, which is designed for overnight stays, recreation and travel without the need to stay in a hotel or rent a house.

I can’t say that a drop will replace a full-fledged cottage. But such a trailer has its own objective advantages and features. Therefore, I propose to study it in more detail in order to understand what a drop for a car is, how such a travel trailer differs and how realistic it is to assemble it yourself or buy it from the manufacturer.

Features of drops on wheels

The choice of a trailer directly depends on the tasks that the car owner faces. Therefore, starting from a specific situation, the market remains in demand:

• for beekeepers;
• and livestock trucks among farmers;
• for those who need to transport wheeled vehicles and machines;
• when transporting perishable goods;
• for food and non-food liquids;
• for entrepreneurs it ;
• among extreme sportsmen trailers are in demand for and .

And there are many such examples.

What are the drops for?

A drop is a special living unit on wheels that is hooked to a towbar and transported using an ordinary passenger car. At present, in Moscow, in Tyumen, in the city of St. Petersburg, and in Russia as a whole, such a trip has not gained immense popularity. Ukraine is gradually realizing how such a compact cottage on wheels is beneficial in terms of budget tourism.

If you look on the Internet, look at ads on Avito, you will come across ads in a fairly large number of ads like selling a residential drop trailer. For used options, the price is lower than for new models.

The only problem is where to buy a brand new drop or teardrop (TearDrop, that is, a drop from the eyes, literally a tear). Studying the reviews and suggestions, I made a conclusion for myself. The big trailer manufacturers don't do that sort of thing yet. But drops for a passenger car are produced by small firms, individuals on order and offer completely ready-made options.

History and essence of structures

Drops, drops or tears began to be actively produced in the USA back in the 30s of the last century. Then many people lost their homes, jobs, property. I had to look for any solutions to survive. And so the first samples of drops appeared, which were collected literally from garbage and improvised means.

Gradually, life improved, and the drops began to be used as travel trailers. What is a Teardrop Classic, that is, a standard drop?

Let's get a look.

The classic drop has not lost its original appeal. But if earlier people simply survived in them, now it has become more of a luxury item, an opportunity to engage in exciting tourism, to experience all the charms of an overnight stay outside standard hotels and cottages.

As for me, this option will appeal not only to tourists, but also to fishermen, hunters who go out for catch and game for several days.

Ready versus homemade

Basically, you have 3 options to get a drop:

• do it yourself;
• purchase a ready-made version;
• order an individual project.

That is, the choice is between home-made and ready-made solutions. To be objective, I will try to give arguments for and against both options for resolving the issue.

If you decide to do everything yourself, the pros will be:

• low price;
• the ability to use your own drawing and create the desired dimensions;
• a point of pride;
• development of skills and acquisition of new knowledge.

But before you build a drop trailer and start making patterns, get to know the back side.

The disadvantages of homemade designs are:

• the complexity of the work;
• skills and experience required;
• financial costs for the trailer base and consumables;
• problem with passing the examination;
• difficulties in registering a vehicle in the traffic police.

As practice shows, the savings are imaginary.

But let's continue. Now the turn of ready-made solutions. Their advantages are:

• you don't have to do anything yourself;
• the drop complies with all norms and standards;
• there are no problems with registration;
• you can order an individual project;
• good build quality;
• adaptability to a passenger car;
• manufacturer's warranty.

If we take classic solutions, such as the Caretta 1500, I can’t name any objective disadvantages. Although some note the high cost of such trailers.

Here I will argue. Buying drops of Russian or Ukrainian production from private workshops, you will have to spend about 5-6 thousand dollars. But these are fully equipped models. Analogues from the USA and Europe, with a similar configuration, cost at least 10 thousand rubles. So everything is relative.

We do it ourselves

On the network you can find a lot of photo and video materials that tell you how to build a drop with your own hands. Such production has the right to life if you are ready to act in accordance with all the rules, undergo a full examination and prove that the homemade trailer complies with all relevant safety requirements.

Think maybe for tourism you'd better buy than to waste time and money on assembling a drop. You decide.

Today we will tell you how to build a drop trailer with your own hands. Such a residential module is common among caravaners - lovers of autotravel with a motor home. You can see an example in the photo below.

Why drop trailer?

Let's not be unfounded - a drop trailer is not a full-fledged trailer with all the amenities, it has its pros and cons. Each traveler decides for himself which mobile unit to choose. We note the benefits that led to the decision to build a drop trailer:
weight and shape;
compact dimensions;
ease of manufacture, low cost of building materials;
the ability to limit yourself to rights with category “B” (we wrote about categories for a trailer);
no re-registration in the traffic police is required.

The first two points are very important for us - the tractor will be a Chevrolet-Niva car with a low-power engine of 79 hp. Of course, with such a motor you can also carry a large trailer, but on the very first trip, all the joy of traveling will end after the next climb up the mountain. The drop trailer is easy to assemble in a garage with low ceilings (190 cm) with budget of 50 thousand rubles, which can not be said about the big trailer.

Base trailer selection

We purchased a Soviet "trolley" VOEARZ 81011 in good condition, having bargained for a decent amount of money. You can choose another option, now almost any size can be made to order at the factory.

Trailer requirements:
width - at least 150 cm;
length - at least 190 cm (preferably 240 cm);
The height of the platform from the ground is approximately 50 cm.

Important! The trailer must not be high! Otherwise, you will not be able to drive normally more than 50-60 km / h! Optimal - 50 cm.

A drop trailer is a kind of “couch on wheels”, so these sizes are quite enough. We will place a removable residential module on the trailer with the following dimensions:
length 240 cm - 190 cm is a "bed" and 50 cm is a kitchen;
width - 150 cm, optimally two people.

Why is a removable module better? - does not require registration with the traffic police, since the design of the trailer has not been changed, and the booth is considered to be a transported cargo.

Preparing a workplace for building a trailer

So, we have decided on the dimensions and are ready to start building. Prepare the basic tools:
jigsaw or grinder with a saw wheel for wood;
screwdriver and / or drill with adjustable speed;
screwdriver;
a hammer;
pliers;
awl;
marker and chalk.

Sometimes during the construction process, additional tools are required - as they say, to whom it is more convenient. It is better to buy more materials gradually, since the sizes may vary slightly. We list only the main components:
moisture-resistant polished plywood 12 mm (for floors), 10 mm (for sidewalls), 3 mm (for ceiling);
timber 50 * 50 (main), 40 * 40 mm (for the door);
corners steel building;
polystyrene 50 mm;
plastic windows 400*500;
galvanized sheet 0.35 mm;
wood screws 4*40;
In the process, sealant, door hinges, handles, latches, cigarette lighters, wires, light bulbs, etc. are purchased.

Start of construction

The main rule of camping collection is to collect the van from the inside to the outside. On the contrary, you can’t, otherwise you won’t push the inner lining through the door.

We make the base of the van from a bar. Its dimensions are 150 * 240 mm, fastening is carried out with corners. Then we fasten moisture-resistant plywood (12 mm) to the bottom with self-tapping screws in increments of every 10-15 cm.

Do not rush to lay the floor - treat the plywood with a special agent from rotting and insects. We used "Senezh Aquadecor", color "Mahogany" (No. 113), the average price is 340 rubles. You can buy other companies cheaper, but they are liquid and spend 1.5 times more.

Then sheathe the bottom with galvanizing and paint, let dry (in the future, the structure will become much heavier and this will be problematic). You can use the usual enamel for metal "PF-115", it's still not visible below. Attach the base to the trailer with reliable heavy-duty bolts with wide washers, holes are drilled in a bar that matches the iron beams.

Important! Don't make holes in the trailer's sheeting or just the plywood - it will vomit! Do not use Chinese "plastic" fasteners! We asked the car service for used hardened bolts from the cylinder head cover (they are disposable, they throw them away anyway).

Then we cut out the inner sidewalls from 10 mm plywood of the desired shape, make openings for the doors - the width is at your discretion, but not less than 55 cm. We chose a ceiling height of 120 cm for ourselves - it allows a person 190 cm tall to fully sit.

On the periphery we fasten a beam of 50 mm, in places of rounding we level with a grinder and polish. Do not worry that the design "plays" - the outer skin will give rigidity to the van.

Then we adjust the plywood for the floor (12 mm) to the internal dimensions, cover it with impregnation. We tightly lay the foam.

We fix the floor on the self-tapping screws, drill holes from the bottom for the mounting bolts, which will be accessible from the camping salon. We fix the base to the trailer until the end of construction. Then we impregnate the inner walls on both sides.

Next, we lay the wiring, cut in cigarette lighters, lamps, insulate the walls with foam. We bought a ceiling lamp from Niva, it is of an external type and is easily attached to plywood. The remaining components were purchased at a radio parts store. We draw the conclusion to the trailer socket, in the future there will be an additional wire from the car battery.
You can start up a second core and make a spare battery compartment in the trailer itself to unhook it from the car and use the light.

We cut plywood 3 mm thick onto the ceiling, gradually bend it, fasten the beam to the sidewalls from the outside. At the back we separate the kitchen. Consider the two distances circled in the figure in an oval - you must fully lie at full height and not reach the top shelf when bending your knees.

We insulate everything with polystyrene foam, then sheathe it on the outside with plywood (sidewalls 10 mm, ceiling 3 mm), which is pre-treated with impregnation.

Then we make a frame for the rear large door (it will open up), we proceed to assemble the kitchen - there is room for your imagination, as you like.

According to the plan, wiring, a lamp for lighting, cabinets, a washbasin tank and a drain. In any country shop you can buy a tank and a faucet, a set of double-sided nuts, plumbing sealant. We will not paint trifles, finalize in place.

The kitchen can be put aside for later and do the galvanized outer cladding. The joints are degreased and liberally smeared with silicone sealant, we used Moment. The metal overlaps, is painstakingly stitched with an aluminum strip.

Modify the latches and handles in place. We proceed to the side doors - here it is better to use a 40 mm beam. We cut in plastic windows, we fill everything with foam plastic, we warm it.

Please note that the windows should open to the street - this is more convenient, since there is too little space inside. A problem arose here, such “devices” are not produced. We cheated: we remove the handle from the outside, put a plug. On the reverse side, we drill a hole, fasten a home-made “grabber” and make a support from a beam. A special “key” is obtained from the handle with the help of a grinder. It is better that the window opens up - this will protect you from side rain.

Don't forget to make sure there is minimal ventilation in the doors. In such a small room, even in the cold season, after a couple of hours there will be nothing to breathe. It is better to install air ducts (from a sewer pipe) at an angle of at least 30º so that side rain does not pour a puddle on you on the first day. We degrease all joints from the street and smear with silicone sealant.

We sheathe the outside with galvanization, put handles, latches. Then painting. We used Chinese KUDO cans, pre-primed by the same company. After the coating dries, be sure to glue all three doors with rubber insulation (you can buy it at a building materials store).

After six months of hard work, we enjoy the result! The car behaves perfectly on the road, such a trailer does not sway, fuel consumption has not changed much. At temperatures up to +8ºC inside, you can sleep like at home.

Traffic police officers looked at the presence of documents for the trailer, license plates and the operation of the rear lights - they did not ask any other questions.

Denis Filin, for the site Avtoclub78 http: // site

P.S. The manufacturer of this trailer is ready to answer questions from our readers. Ask them by email or (better yet) in the comments!