We level the ceiling with a solution of vetonite with a wide spatula. Leveling walls with vetonite How to update the ceiling in an apartment covered with vetonite

If you remember, we have already written about the wonderful properties of Vetonite. True, this concerned only one of its varieties - Vetonite for floors. But, as it turned out, the family of materials called Vetonite also includes mixtures for walls and ceilings, tile adhesives, and much, much more. Knowing from experience that it’s better to check everything for yourself (besides, the need for another repair is ripe), I went to the same, already familiar, store to the sweet and sympathetic consultant Misha.

To my surprise, he immediately recognized me (apparently, last time I got him with my ridiculous questions). But he did not hide in the back room, he immediately approached.

- Repair again? Misha asked sympathetically.

- Yes, but now it's in full swing. And the floor, and the ceiling, and the tiles need to be glued, - I complained to him.

- Well, nothing, nothing, - he consoled. - Now we will pick everything for you. Only for the floor, why was Vetonit needed? You, in my opinion, last time took Vetonit for the floor?

- Yes, - I agreed, - but this is for a new apartment, we moved. She is in a terrible state, without repair - no way.

“Let's not rush,” advised the sensible Misha, straightening his fashionable tie. - LET'S START WITH THE CEILING. What is yours?

“White,” I said confidently.

“I mean, dry or wet, and what is on it: wallpaper, old plaster or just a concrete base? And what walls? Why am I asking? For walls and ceilings, there are several types of putty, plaster and primer. Before choosing what you need, you need to determine what kind of substrate, in which room the material will be used (dry or wet), what layer thickness is required.

First, about the plaster. If you're renovating a bathroom, basement, or other damp space, choose stucco Vetonit TT, make no mistake ($8.1). It is mixed with water in the ratio of 6 liters of water per 1 bag (25 kg). Mix preferably within 1 minute using a drill with a nozzle. Then the solution settles for 15 minutes and is mixed again for about 30 seconds.

“It must be said,” added detailed Misha, “that Vetonit TT- the mixture is universal, suitable for both dry walls and ceilings. True, there is one detail: if the surface is very dry, it must be moistened. In addition, it must be clean, free of dust, oil stains and also solid. And yet - do not forget to cover the windows and doors with something before you start work.

Four hours later, after final mixing, Vetonit TT can be applied to the surface. This is best done with a steel spatula or by spraying.

“I have nothing to spray with, it’s better with a spatula,” I immediately decided.

“With a spatula, with a spatula,” the accommodating Misha agreed. – The minimum layer is 2 mm, the maximum layer is 7 mm. And if you do several layers, then keep in mind: each layer must dry completely, and this, I warn you, will take at least 1 day. Then the dried layer must be sanded and, if necessary, moistened again. In addition, plasters can be used for leveling. Vetonit B and Vetonit L(layer thickness from 1 to 3 mm).

And then Misha suddenly asked:

By the way, why do you need all these details? Have you decided to make repairs on your own?

I waved my hands.

- No, of course, but I have to follow it, otherwise you know how it happens ...

Misha apparently knew, because he cheerfully continued:

- After the workers finish with the primer, we proceed to the second part of the Marleson ballet.

- To putty? - I clarified.

Misha looked at me with respect.

- Exactly. Putties are the so-called "finishing" materials, they can be used as a final, topcoat. These include Vetonit VX, Vetonit KR and Vetonit LR($8.5 per pack). If you do not have damp rooms, then it will do Vetonit KR or Vetonit LR. These are adhesive materials. Vetonit VX the good thing is that it is more versatile, suitable for bathrooms and other wet and dry rooms, and therefore it costs more.

All these putties fit perfectly on walls and ceilings treated with plasters. Vetonit V, L or TT. You can then do nothing at all with the ceiling, and paste over or paint the walls as you wish. By the way, my advice to you: do not try to pour the remaining solutions into the sink or toilet. The consequences are simply unpredictable.

- And can, for example, then lay the tiles?

- For this, “finishing” putty is not suitable, and it is not needed. Enough Vetonita TT, only the surface must be well dried. I must say that all types of Vetonite have two very important qualities: they are easy and convenient to apply, and the whole process of preparing the material for work takes a few minutes. And if everything is chosen correctly, then there is a saving of time and money.

- Understood. What to do with the floor? After the old linoleum was stripped from it, the floor turned out to be all crooked and oblique. And under the linoleum - bare concrete.

“Everything is simple here,” Misha assured me. GO TO THE FLOOR. The material is again selected depending on the conditions. Vetonites for the floor can be used for any base, especially for concrete. Our material has been tested and tested under laboratory conditions in Finland, taking into account the angle of inclination of the surface, the thickness of the layer and the setting time. It has been established that after 10 hours the applied Vetonite can be walked on. And in order to fix the topcoat on top, it is enough to grind it. I already told you last time, but if you forgot how to do it right, let me remind you.

So, your floor is concrete. So let's take Vetonit Vaateri Plus($11.9). An excellent versatile material, then you can put any floor covering on it: tiles, parquet, laminate, cork, carpets. What will you have on the floor?

“I don’t know yet,” I thought. “Probably, in the kitchen there is linoleum, and in the rooms and in the hallway there is some kind of carpet ... By the way, you remember Vaateri Plus. There, if I am not mistaken, there are some subtleties, in my opinion, this material should be vacuumed ...

- Quite right, - Misha rejoiced at my memory. - But let's put everything in order. The substrate must be free of dust, oil and other water-soluble substances. If there are depressions in the concrete more than 20 mm, they must be repaired. Vetonite 4000 or Vetonite 5000. Then you need to treat the concrete with a primer (for 1 part - 5 parts of water). And just before the primer, the surface is really thoroughly vacuumed.

The initial primer is rubbed into the base with a soft brush and dries for two hours. This priming is necessary to ensure that Vetonite adheres better to the base, air bubbles do not appear and water from Vetonite does not go into the concrete. (Concrete, as you know, is a porous material and absorbs water very well.)

Then you need to take a drill with a nozzle, a bag Vetonit Vaateri Plus, 5.5 - 6 liters of water. We mix everything for 1-2 minutes and immediately pour it on the floor. And I advise you to pour it in strips 30-40 cm wide - this way the mixture is distributed better. This fun activity requires two people. One should pour, the other should prepare the next portion, because you need to try to fill the whole room in one go. We recommend applying a layer of 4 to 20 mm. The next day you can walk on the floor. And after two weeks, you can put linoleum or the coating that you decided to lay.

- By the way, what should I do if I suddenly decide to arrange underfloor heating? It is now fashionable, and actually comfortable.

Misha was not taken aback:

– Vetonit Renovation! This is what you need. The material is also very popular, easy to use and economical (its price is $ 11.8 per pack). With it, you can restore a variety of floors: wood, concrete, stone, tiled. And, of course, it is perfect for underfloor heating.

Application rules are almost the same. The recommended application layer is from 4 to 30 mm. The dosage of water is the same as for Vaateri Plus. I can also recommend Vetonit 3000($11.9), finishing "leveler" for concrete floors. You can walk on it after 4 hours, and lay the flooring in a day or two. Super economical material.

But, sadly, any material can be spoiled. So I'll tell you about COMMON ERRORS.

First. Always use the original primer Primer MD16. The primer, as I said, creates an adhesive base between the base and the material. Before applying it, the base must be vacuumed.

Second. You can not add more water than it is written in the instructions - this affects the strength of the mixture.

Third. Stir the mixture must also be strictly according to the instructions and, of course, not by hand. By the way, if you use a pump for application, as they do in Finland ...

Here Misha faltered and, drawing himself up, continued:

- So, if you use a pump, you can cover areas up to 500 square meters!

I imagined endless expanses filled with Vetonite and asked:

“I still have to lay tiles in the bathroom and in the kitchen. What is the best way to glue it?

- It is better to glue the tiles on ADHESIVES FOR TILE- Misha said logically. - It is best to choose for this purpose Vetonite Plus Fix($4.9). It is the cheapest of Vetonites, and at the same time it can be used for laying tiles both on the floor and on the walls. As usual, we start by preparing the base. The base should be even, but we will assume that we have already leveled it with one of the leveling mortars for the walls. Naturally, the surface must be clean and dust-free. The dry mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 25 kg of the mixture to 6.5 - 7 liters of water (approximately 3: 1). Well, it is clear that the dosage should not be violated, the technology must be observed.

Mixing takes place in two stages using the same drill with a nozzle. First stage: mixing with a small amount of water and settling for 10 minutes. Second step: adding the remaining water. All solution must be used within 4 hours. Approximately 4–5 kg of solution is consumed per square meter, then you can calculate for yourself. The mixture sets for ten minutes. The tile is laid by firmly pressing into the solution, and at the same time the surfaces of the tile and joints are leveled.

How to check how well the tile has stuck? Very simple: try to tear off a test tile from the base. Doesn't come off? It means everything is OK. Move on. If the tile is large, then the solution must be applied to the tile itself too. If the tiles are laid on the floor, then keep in mind that you cannot walk on the fresh floor for 2-3 days. For wall tiles, the drying time is slightly shorter: 1–2 days.

When everything is thoroughly dry, you can start grouting the seams. For walls, I recommend “Vetonit grout”, it can also be used for floor tiles. For the floor, “Grout for Vetonit clinker tiles” is also suitable. In fact, there are several varieties of adhesives for Vetonit tiles, but they all have the same qualities as the rest of the materials from the Vetonit family, which I have already told you about.

Misha took a breath.

- And, finally, the last. Let me remind you again: it is better to close and hang all windows and doors with something so as not to spoil it. And ... I do not advise you to violate the instructions for use. Everything is always written on the packaging, what and how to do. And if you need help, contact me, I will help, - polite Misha added.

On this we parted. All the necessary Vetonites were purchased by me in the right quantity. By the way, during the repair, the workers were, in my opinion, pretty surprised by my non-female awareness in the application of solutions for various purposes. Know ours!

Courtesy of MATERIAL magazine

We level the ceiling in a raw way in cases where the level differences are not more than 5 cm. For example, to remove inter-plate joints, cracks and potholes in the ceiling. Raw ceiling alignment is suitable for smoothing out differences between the plates (this is a common problem in modern buildings).

Preparing the ceiling for leveling

We cover the furniture in the room with construction film or take it out of the room. It is also necessary to lay a construction film on the floor, which will further reduce the amount of cleaning.

Cleaning the ceiling surface

Next is the most important trick: we sharpen the spatula with a bar so that it cuts like a knife. This tool will carry out the main work. We don’t take a spatula that is too wide, because the pressure will spread over a large area, and accordingly, we will have to make more efforts. Then we scrape off layers of plaster, paint, old whitewash to a concrete slab. This work is tedious and hard, but necessary. Especially you need to carefully scrape the joint and seams with the walls.

Ceiling primer

We sharpen the spatula periodically, the beam should always be at hand. After warm water and a sponge, wash off the remnants of whitewash. We constantly change the water, otherwise the lime will be smeared on the ceiling. When the ceiling is completely dry, we treat it with a roller or brush with a primer for slightly absorbent materials (for example, Betonokontakt). It is desirable to use a primer of the same brand as the gypsum mixture, which we will later level the ceiling with. We especially pay attention to the corners and seams - here you can’t do without a brush, and we prime the rest with a roller. When the soil is dry, we begin to level the ceiling.

Rough ceiling leveling

Solution preparation

For alignment, prepare a solution. To do this, we use a mixture of Knauf Rotband. Before use, strictly follow the instructions on the package - knead the solution in cold water and mix thoroughly after 5 minutes. after kneading, otherwise the solution will dry out directly on the spatula. The mixture dries very quickly, so it does not cost much to knead it. Compared with the wall, leveling the ceiling is much more difficult, and the solution cannot be applied immediately in large quantities, and the rest after 25 ... 30 minutes. will have to be thrown away in the form of a frozen monolith. It is better to knead in a plastic basin of 3 ... 5 kg.

Applying mortar to the ceiling

We put the solution with a small spatula on the iron, put it on one side. We do not apply the solution to the edges, because it will be squeezed out and flow. Then we stroked with the solution to the ceiling and stretch it along with little pressure, as if rubbing the solution into the ceiling. You need to press so that the solution sticks to the ceiling with us, and not completely squeezed out onto the floor.

The technology of applying the solution to the ceiling

We level the ceiling in several layers, so there is no need to try to fill in the entire deep irregularities - we make the mortar layer of such a thickness that it normally holds (no more than 1.5 ... 2 cm). Also, do not try to apply the solution without bubbles and seams - this is a very difficult task, requiring a lot of time. All this will be equalized by the following layers, for a start, the main thing is to eliminate large irregularities.

Applying a second coat to the ceiling

The solution sets very quickly, so while we finish it, in the place where we started, we can already continue to work. We cut off the seams with a spatula, again, we do not worry about evenness. To detect protruding bumps and seams, we apply a plinth or a flat rail. It is better to cut the bumps and seams immediately. Next, do not wait until the layer dries, but take on the second layer. We apply it in approximately the same way as the first one.

The process of applying the third layer

Then with the last layer (3 layers came out, but with small irregularities it may be less, with large ones, respectively, more) we eliminate minor irregularities, seams, pits of bubbles, etc. We make the solution for the last layer thinner and apply it with a medium or wide spatula . Again, we leave the seams alone - after drying, it is easier to remove them with sandpaper. Having applied the last layer, we wait until it is completely dry, after the seams and irregularities we clean it with coarse-grained sandpaper. We clean the ceiling from dust with a brush or a damp cloth, cover it with soil (we make the solution liquid and apply it with a spray gun).

Materials for leveling the ceiling:

• Soil type betonokontakt;
• Gypsum mixture Rotband;
• Finishing putty Vetonit LR+

Tools for work:

• Spatulas: 5 ... 10 cm, 15 cm, 70 cm;
• Metal irons;
• Drill with a nozzle to stir the solution;
• Sandpaper;
• Construction foam

Finishing the ceiling

For this, we use a finishing putty of the Vetonit LR + type. The solution, without fear, immediately knead in large quantities (shelf life 2 days)

Among the wide range of plasters on the market, Vetonit building mixtures are very popular. The product of this brand is of excellent quality and affordable price. In Russia, it is produced by the branch of the international construction group "Saint-Gobain" "Weber-Vetonit".

Types and scope

Firm "Weber-Vetonit" produces powder mixtures for a wide range of construction works.

The following types can be found on the market:

• "Vetonit Gypsum Plaster";
• Primer "Vetonit";
• "Vetonite Dispersion";
• Vetonit TT;
• Vetonit EP.

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Depending on the type of plaster, it can be used to:

• create a decorative layer inside or outside the room;
• level surfaces (walls or ceiling).

« Vetonit Gypsum plaster» is used for leveling indoor surfaces. It is a non-water resistant white plaster that can be applied by hand or machine. The end result is a surface ready for painting.

Primer "Vetonit"(or plaster mortar for leveling) is used for indoor work on concrete and brick surfaces.

« Vetonit EP» is a non-waterproof lime-cement based plaster mixture. It is most often used, like gypsum, in order to level large areas in one go. It is not recommended to be applied on weak lime and cement-lime substrates.

« Vetonit TT» is a waterproof cement-based stucco mix. Most often used for indoor work. This mixture is universal and can be used for plastering most substrates.

In the building materials market there are also decorative plasters of this company. It is recommended that you carefully read the instructions on the package before purchasing in order to obtain a high-quality end result.

Specifications

By comparing the characteristics of different types of plaster, it is easy to make an informed choice in favor of this brand or another.

Compound

Depending on the type of plaster, its composition differs.. So, the composition of "Vetonit EP" includes cement and lime. The main component of the most common Vetonit TT mixture is cement. The basis of "Vetonit T" is adhesive organic binders. "Vetonit L" is a plaster on a polymeric binder. So you must first study the composition of the mixture.

Colors

This product is intended primarily for subsequent painting, therefore neutral colors are provided: white, gray and light gray.

Layer thickness

Vetonite can be applied in a layer of 2 - 10 mm, the maximum thickness is 3cm. Please note that it may vary depending on the type of mixture. More details can be found in the tables below.

Adhesion (stickiness)

The plaster has a high level of stickiness. The average adhesion strength is 0.5 MPa.

Frost resistance, moisture resistance

Dry powder is quite frost-resistant. He able to withstand 75-100 cycles of complete freezing and defrosting. Therefore, this product is recommended in cold climate regions.

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Strength

The strength of plasters of different types differs slightly. Thus, a gypsum-based mixture is less durable than a cement-based one. On average one month after plastering the surface can withstand a load of 6-8 MPa.

Having considered the technical characteristics, we can come to the conclusion that Vetonit is indeed an ideal material for interior and facade plastering.

More information about the most common types of mixtures can be found in the tables:

Having studied the technical characteristics, you can start plastering work.

Preparations for work

It should be taken into account that the solution should be applied at a temperature of +5 to +30 degrees. But if the package has an asterisk or there is the word "winter", which means that it can be used at low temperatures from -10 degrees.

It is necessary to take breaks between applying layers for up to two days and only after that proceed to the next stage. A week after the final work, the plaster acquires 50% strength.

Surface preparation

Surface preparation largely determines the final result.

The order of work is as follows:

• pre-clean the surface of dirt and level;
• cut protruding corners;
• all irregularities should be repaired.

You can strengthen the base with a reinforcing mesh.

When plastering concrete surfaces, it is desirable to treat it with a primer so that the concrete cannot absorb moisture from the mixture.

Solution preparation

For this you need:

• pour a package (25 kg) of dry solution into a container of 5-6 liters;
• knead the solution in water at room temperature;
• mix until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. You can use a powerful drill for this;
• Stir again after 10 minutes.

The plaster should be used within 3 hours.

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Working methods

Plastering can be done manually or mechanically.

When performing work manually, you must:

• apply the resulting solution to the previously treated surface;
• sand with a sponge;
• fill in the recesses;
• level the surface.

If you need to apply several layers, it is better to let the first layer dry for two days. and then move on to the next one.

The procedure for working with Vetonit is no different from the procedure for working with other types of plaster.

Advantages

This plaster is universal.

Among the advantages are the following:

• frost resistance and water resistance;
• non-shrink hardening and good level of adhesion;
• the possibility of plastering manually and mechanically;
• small expense;
• moisture resistance;
• application on different types of surfaces.

Products can be used on most known materials - concrete, aerated concrete, ceramic or silicate bricks, foam concrete, and so on, preparing the base for subsequent finishing with tiles, glass or plastic plates, as well as for applying putty.

disadvantages

There are not many disadvantages and they are insignificant.

The main ones are:

• the plastered surface dries slowly;
• crumbles when sanding.

Due to its numerous advantages and ease of use, Vetonit is in demand on the modern market of building materials.

By following the advice of professionals, you can avoid problematic situations.

Here are some of them:

• to increase adhesion (stickiness), you can use a special solution "Vetonit Dispersion";
• you can not use Vetonit as a base for tiles;
• tools and equipment must be cleaned immediately after each use.

Price

The price of Vetonit plaster is quite high. The price may vary depending on the type. The average price is from 400 rubles. for 25 kg. The goods are packed in packs of 5 or 25 kg. It is recommended to store in dry rooms in the original packaging. Shelf life is 1 year.

You can see more about Vetonit products in the video:

Any repair begins with a rough finish of all surfaces. First of all, the ceiling is prepared and this process should be given enough time and effort, since it can be quite difficult to create a perfectly flat surface the first time.

Today we will find out how do-it-yourself ceiling plastering is carried out, how to mask or fix small flaws on the surface after its preparation, how to cheaply repair the ceiling after damage, and what preparation requirements are needed for certain finishing materials.

Choice between dry and wet

Before starting the repair process, you should study some of the features of ceiling alignment. At the moment, there are such ways to align it:

1. Dry method - not used so often, but allows you to create a perfectly even base in the shortest possible time. Drywall is used as a consumable material, the joints of which are subsequently puttied. This investment cannot be called minimal and, unfortunately, it is not suitable for all dwellings. Plasterboard sheets are used in the case of running ceilings
2. Wet option - ideal when you need to cover small defects or prepare the ceiling for painting. For surfaces with differences exceeding 4-5 cm, it is necessary to use plaster, and for irregularities of 4-5 mm, putty is used. An uneven ceiling does not stand out for its attractiveness, and when the height differences on it are more than 5 cm, a stretch ceiling or gypsum plasterboard should be chosen as a design.

Important! When applying a thick layer of plaster, the coating may begin to crack, crumble or fall off in pieces, which threatens not only to damage the repair, but even to injury. If you notice cracks on the plastered ceiling, you should not wait for it to collapse - dismantle it.

Features of plaster

Before you start using a plaster mortar, you need to find out all its pros and cons, and then clarify how to properly prepare the mixture with your own hands. There are a large number of recipes and proportions among home craftsmen, but today we will look at the preparation standards and the benefits of such plasters.

Plaster for the ceiling is selected not only according to price preferences, but also according to the declared characteristics of the material. High-quality plasters are sold in hardware stores and have quality certificates.

The main types of mixtures

What kind of plaster for the ceiling of the house to choose and how much does it cost? - a question that worries any beginner in terms of repair work. Among the variety of finishing mixtures, the main ones can be distinguished:

• Ready based on polymers - the preparation of the ceiling with their help is carried out at the highest level. The advantage lies in the ease of use of the solution, which does not need to be diluted. However, this is an expensive choice with large flaws in the ceiling - at the stage of full-scale leveling, ready-made mixtures are unprofitable.
• Cement - soundproof, act as a heater, to improve the quality, you can add lime and sand. Lime and sand plasters do not shrink
• Gypsum - gypsum has good adhesion to concrete surfaces. They are easier to work with, they are distinguished by an average pricing policy. Plaster perfectly lays down on concrete and brick walls.

Before you start plastering the ceiling, let's look at the popular and sought-after manufacturers of putty mixtures:

1. Rotband from Knauf is a great alternative to long-drying mixtures. Among the advantages, a harmless composition, fast drying speed, compatibility with additional insulation are distinguished. As with any process, surfaces must be primed before plastering.
2. Eunice - makes it possible to set a good start for finishing. The reason for this frequent choice is the increased strength of the material. In addition, there is no need to whitewash the base with finishing putties. With the help of Eunice, you can cover up depressions up to 5 cm and apply layers up to 3 cm without losing the declared properties. When properly applied, material collapse is minimized.
3. Rotgypsum - for dry and wet rooms, when a special primer is used. The minimum consumption is 8 kg per 1 m2 with a thickness of 10 mm, it is manufactured in accordance with GOST standards, and has supporting documents. Unlike cement, it sets within an hour, which is why it should be worked out in a given period of time. Performs surface hardening. Rotgypsum can make a thick layer, which sometimes reaches 50 mm
4. Volma - thanks to various packaging, you can buy plaster for 5kn, 15kg, 20kg, 30kg. This is very convenient when processing both small and large areas. The norms for the use of such a brand require the use in rooms with moderate temperature fluctuations. Most often, Volma is used to level curved walls, but it can also be placed on a curved ceiling. Before applying the material, it is not necessary to sand the bases and even prime them. For applied plaster, only a clean base is important
5. Vetonit - various plasters are made, which are applied to brick, plywood, fiberglass, osb, fiberboard, gypsum boards, wooden surfaces and external walls. Dry mixes are easy to use, the finished solution has a service life of 2-3 hours, and the finished base can withstand up to 100 freeze-thaw cycles

Important! Photo and video lessons teach beginners how to level the ceiling with plaster on their own, how to calculate the right amount of the mixture, how to make an estimate for further work, what proportions to use when making plaster and how to hide a small flaw by creating a pattern on the ceiling with putty.

Sometimes it is simply impossible to carry out repair processes with your own hands due to a number of reasons. Then qualified specialists who will need to pay for their services can come to the rescue. Let's find out what prices for plaster ceilings per m2. A small table shows prices for certain processes:

In addition, textured, structural, Venetian putties and bark beetle can be used as finishing materials. With their help, a special style, beautiful drawings and patterns are created on the ceiling, which are in demand not only in ordinary rooms of an apartment, but also in a loft.

Alignment and preparation, tools

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands for painting with video and photo materials makes it possible to visually learn about the nuances of the whole process. But now we will find out what tools will be needed for alignment:

• Primer and plaster mixes
• Roller and brushes
• plastic tray
• Spatulas
• Level
• construction mixer
• hand grater
• rule

Important! When you do not have a construction mixer at hand, you can use a special stirring nozzle that is worn on a drill.

Finishing begins with cleaning the ceiling. From it you need to remove old wallpaper, peeled paint, wash off dirt, remove dust. Concrete contact primer is suitable for a concrete ceiling, which creates a good adhesive coating. It is required to clean the ceiling when the previous repair included puttying. To do this, use a cloth and water to wash off the coating and remove it with a spatula. There are adhesive mixtures that include antiseptic additives - with their help, mold and fungus do not develop on the surface.

When the base is already affected, the technology includes additional processing with specialized mixtures. The cost of such materials is low. Primers are applied in two layers, between which an hour and a half break should be maintained. When the base is completely dry, it remains to mark the differences, mark the place where there are large irregularities, mix the necessary mortar and plaster the ceiling. Follow this sequence:

• Mark the lowest point of the ceiling - this will be the final height
• Lighthouses need to be installed according to the level, fixed with plaster or alabaster
• Choose a corner of the wall and start from it - the texture of the mixture should be thick, it is better to knead for lighthouses with your hands
• In order for the floor to last for a long time, pay attention to what temperature you prepare the plaster and under what conditions you use it. When the room is more than 23-25 ​​degrees, then use a spray bottle to spray and moisten. To create a high-quality and continuous layer - set the grid
• You can apply plaster using a machine method - mechanization of the process allows you to speed up the leveling work. The mechanical option is suitable for private homes when there is a compressor at hand
• For one layer, a thickness of 10-20 mm is sufficient, when the irregularities exceed this figure, then you will need to plaster in several layers. As a result, the beacon should be a little buried in the building mixture. Too thin mortar will drip, so when you prepare the plaster yourself, control its density
• On average, subsequent work is allowed 24 hours after leveling, however, in some places the ceiling may dry a little longer. It is better to putty large areas with dry mortars - they are much more economical

Important! All arched, decorative baguettes, plinths are glued after the lining is completed. Metal corners help to bring out the inner corners.

You can glue the tapestries or paint the base after the ceiling is completely dry and is solid white - if there are stains, you will need to re-prime and level. In panel houses, balconies, kitchens and other rooms do not differ in their evenness, in some cases it is better to cover significant height differences with suspended ceilings. Stretching a PVC ceiling takes less time and effort, but when there are beams in the room, it is better to call specialists. The advantages of stretch ceilings are that you can choose matte or glossy canvases, patterns or plain fabrics.

Among the wide variety of building materials that exist today, Vetonit putty deserves special attention. It is very popular among consumers, as it can be used to easily, quickly and efficiently prepare walls and ceilings for tinting or wallpapering. Putty "Vetonit" is a non-moisture resistant white mixture based on limestone with a polymer binder. It is used to work with various types of surfaces in dry rooms.

Putty "Vetonit" has won love and respect not only from professional builders, but also from beginners in this field.

• Its main advantage is its ease of use. "Vetonit" easily falls on the surface of the base, dries quickly and has a high degree of adhesion.
• The composition of this building material includes environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for the health of the surrounding substances: limestone, organic or polymeric glue, as well as some mineral additives.
• Such putty can be used on various types of surfaces, in particular, walls and ceilings made of plasterboard, concrete, brick, expanded clay concrete blocks and even particle boards, etc. The only exceptions are those surfaces that have been pre-treated with water-soluble leveling compounds. Putty Vetonit is not suitable for leveling floors and sealing joints between gypsum boards.

Features of the use of putty "Vetonit"

Before using the Vetonit putty to level the walls, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances of working with this material so that the result of all efforts is successful and can please you for a long time.

• First of all, it is worth paying special attention to the quality of the treated surface. It must be kept clean and dry. Remnants of old paint, dust, grease stains and other possible contaminants are carefully removed from the base using any means at hand (degreaser, white spirit, etc.).

• The temperature of the treated surface and the mixture itself must be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
• The mixture is prepared strictly following the instructions indicated on the manufacturer's packaging. To do this, a certain amount of water is poured into a bucket and a dry mixture is added to it in the proportion that is necessary. All this is gently mixed with a special nozzle for a drill for 5 minutes. The finished solution, before you start using it, you need to give time to brew properly. This will take about 10 minutes, after which it is mixed again.
• Mortar mixture "Vetonit" does not lose its properties and can be successfully used within the next two days from the moment of its preparation.

• This putty can be applied by spraying or by hand using a steel spatula. Each subsequent layer of Vetonite is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.
• Working seams and the surface are best processed manually with sandpaper, which will remove any irregularities that were not noticed during the application of the composition. However, this can only be done after it has dried, that is, after about a day.

• Tools that were used in the process of applying Vetonit putty must be thoroughly rinsed with water immediately after completion of work.
• Another important condition is the strict observance of security measures. In particular, it is contraindicated to inhale dust from Vetonit, so it is better to wear a special mask for your own protection.

The process of leveling the walls with putty "Vetonit"

The process of leveling walls using Vetonite is not as complicated as it might seem to many.

• Let's prepare the walls first. To do this, remove the old wallpaper, as well as the top layer of the old plaster. We will clean all cracks with chips with a spatula.
• Further, before proceeding directly to leveling the walls, they must be well strengthened with a reinforcing mesh.
• The next stage is the measurement of the curvature of the walls, as a result of which special notches are applied and the so-called beacons are installed, which are fastened with alabaster.
• Next, we install the profiles at the beginning and at the end of the wall, strictly controlling its position using a level. Then we stretch the thread between the two profiles, along which we install other profiles.
• Then we dilute the plaster according to the instructions on its packaging, allowing it to stand properly.

Only then can you get to work.

• To do this, we take a construction spatula and apply the finished mixture on the wall with slaps from one beacon to another, gradually moving from bottom to top. Next, we level the surface of the wall with the rule. If the walls are too uneven, then you will need not one layer of putty, but several at once. At the same time, do not forget that each layer of Vetonite must be dried well and sanded with abrasive material. They do this by moving from one lighthouse to another.

• The final stage of work is the complete grinding of the walls, after which they can be painted or wallpapered.

So, there is nothing complicated in leveling the walls with Vetonite, so a beginner can also master such work. The main thing is not to get lost and follow the recommendations of experts.

More details about leveling the walls with Vetonit putty can be found in the video: