Yucca gave a lot of kids what to do. Reproduction of room yucca: two interesting ways. Yucca: growing and breeding at home

The experience of growing yucca in Russia has more than a hundred years. But if at the end of the 19th century, plants adorned the park ensembles of palaces, today planting and caring for yucca, in the photo, is carried out even in household plots and in city squares.

The plant, found in nature in the subtropical and tropical zone of the American continent, with all the exotic appearance, turned out to be not so capricious. Used to the arid semi-desert climate with sharp temperature changes, yuccas were able to acclimatize even in the middle lane. True, while enduring only slight frosts in open ground, plants need good shelter for the winter. And in the southern regions of the country are often grown without any restrictions. Two types are suitable for planting and caring for yucca in the open field. This is the filamentous yucca, so named because of the long fibers hanging from the edges of the tough foliage, and the glorious yucca. The first species prevails in Russian plantings, since it is more winter hardy.

A large evergreen plant, easily recognizable by pointed, lanceolate leaves that form a dense rosette. With a width of 3–6 cm, the length of one leaf plate can reach 50–70 cm. As it grows, the lower rows of leaves wither, and when dried, sag, forming a kind of skirt around the trunk. If the garden yucca is in good conditions, does not freeze slightly and does not suffer from waterlogging, it blooms annually. Powerful up to 1.5–2 meters peduncles cannot be overlooked. And when 80 to 150 white, yellowish or pink bells up to 6 cm in diameter open on them, the appearance of yucca strikes the imagination of any gardener.

How to plant a yucca

Yucca is unpretentious and hardy. She is not afraid of drought, heat and wind, but the main enemy of the plant is waterlogging and heavy soils, where there is a risk of moisture stagnation.

To simplify the care of garden yucca, in the photo, planting is carried out in a well-ventilated sunny place. When choosing a site for an exotic beauty, lowlands and corners of the garden with dense shade should be avoided. A long stay in penumbra leaves a mark on the external appearance of the culture. The leaves lose their former density, the trunk is pulled out. As a result, the plant looks rather sloppy even when receiving full-scale care.

Yucca has no special requirements for the composition of the soil. The main thing is that the roots receive enough air, and the water does not linger in the soil. Therefore, before planting a yucca, in areas with dense black soil or clay, sand is added to the substrate for backfilling the pit. A drainage layer is needed at the bottom, and humus is added to the substrate to provide nutrition, especially on poor soils.

Despite the unpretentiousness of the culture, it will not be possible to do without care after planting yucca in the open field.

How to care for a garden yucca flower?

After planting, the plants need very moderate sanitization, which consists in removing dead leaves and wilted flower stalks, occasional top dressing and pruning.

Watering is carried out at the root, trying not to flood the core of the outlet, since the water remaining here for a long time is the main reason for the crown to rot and the need for cardinal pruning of the yucca.

As a rule, garden yucca is rarely affected by pests or diseases and, with good shelter, winters well even in the conditions of the Moscow region. In order for the roots of the plant to breathe more actively, and the moisture remaining under the dense outlet does not cause the lower leaves and roots to rot, the space under the garden yucca is regularly loosened, simultaneously removing weeds and fallen leaf plates.

If the place for the culture was initially chosen incorrectly, the plant can be transferred to another, more suitable site until the age of three.

How to transplant yucca? Although the plant belongs to evergreen crops, its biological processes freeze for the winter, and a new growing season begins only in the spring. This time is used for transplanting garden yucca, the care of which in such a situation is sometimes complicated by painful addiction to a new place of residence. When transferring a bush, it is important to try to preserve the entire root system of the plant, preventing it from drying out. To do this, when transplanting, use any means to moderately moisten the roots of excavated plants.

Transplanted specimens do not feed for about a month, and the remaining yuccas in the garden need to be fertilized in the spring, and then in the summer, before flowering and after the inflorescences wither.

At 3–4 years old, yuccas bloom for the first time, and the racemose inflorescence retains its decorative effect for about a month. Feeding with complex compositions with a predominance will help maintain the strength of the plant. Fertilization is stopped a month before the onset of autumn coolness. This will allow the yucca to prepare for the winter and successfully survive the frost.

Shelter for garden yucca for the winter

Plants endure sudden snow that falls in autumn or spring without loss, the main thing is that it melts within a couple of days. But stable cold and snowless winters are deadly for garden yucca.

First of all, the growth point in the core of the rosette suffers from frost, and then the vegetative root system. A frame shelter, which is a spacious box as high as an adult plant, helps to secure the culture.

Before covering the foliage, the yucca is picked up and wrapped tightly with strong twine. Then the plant is covered with a box on top and sprinkled abundantly with spruce branches or fallen leaves. The entire structure is wrapped with a covering material and secured with tape. Checking the stability of the structure. In this form, the plant will spend the winter without problems, it will be especially comfortable for it under a layer of snow.

You can remove the frame and remove the foliage with the arrival of stable positive temperatures. If you are late with the "liberation of the captive" there is a danger of mold and preli due to the activation of respiration and the beginning of the vegetation of the plant inside the enclosed space.

How to propagate yucca?

Although with proper care after planting, the garden yucca, as in the photo, blooms, it will not work to wait for its seeds in the middle lane. How to propagate yucca grown in the garden? There are several ways to get young independent plants. Most often, child sockets are used, which are formed at the base of an adult bush. It is better to take layering with an already developed own root system. This will speed up acclimatization and enable plants to develop quickly in a new place.

Child rosettes are easily separated when transplanting garden yucca, while caring for them is no different from what other plants receive. At the same time, do not forget that the places of cuts are most susceptible to all kinds of infections and pest attacks. Therefore, they are dried a little and sprinkled with crushed coal or cinnamon powder.

During spring transplantation, several cuttings from 5 to 10 cm long can be cut from a healthy strong root. They are treated with charcoal and planted in a greenhouse, lightly sprinkled with a wet sand-peat mixture. The formation of sprouts in this case occurs due to dormant buds.

Another way that allows not only to rejuvenate a plant that has grown and lost its compactness, but also to propagate an exotic guest is pruning. How to make yucca more fluffy and get high-quality planting material?

How to prune yucca?

It is best to prune the plant in the spring, when it is just freed from winter shelter. Since the yucca has only one point of growth, cutting off the stem, the gardener completely stops its vertical development. And yet the life of the flower will not stop, the buds sleeping on the stem will wake up and give several new rosettes already.

Pruning is a great way to rejuvenate a flower, get strong garden yucca seedlings, and also save specimens that have suffered from rot or frost.

Before cutting the yucca, a couple of days before the operation, the plant is watered. The cut is made with a very sharp clean knife so that:

• in its place there were no stem splits, damage or peeling of the bark;
• it fell 8-10 cm below the foliage growth line.

When the cuts dry out a little, they, both on the stump and on the top, are treated with a fungicide and charcoal powder.

AT The top of the hemp remaining to the ground after pruning the yucca can be covered with garden pitch, which will provide long-term reliable protection in the garden.

On an old plant, covered from the scorching sun, sprouts will appear newer in 2-3 weeks. If the yucca is strong, 3 to 5 hatched buds are left on the stump. Small specimens will not be able to support the growth of more than two young tops.

The old top is not thrown away, but is used for planting garden yucca, the care of which differs little from the situation when daughter outlets are transferred to the ground. True, before this, the seedling needs to be rooted. This is best done in a greenhouse, keeping an eye on preventing condensation from forming and monitoring the moderate humidity of the sandy substrate.

Yucca filamentous - video

Palm trees have always occupied a special place in the home interior, and although the yucca does not belong to this extensive family, its popularity is not inferior to the most common and sought-after palm species. This beautiful elegant plant is an excellent decoration for any room, from a cozy homely living room to a formally strict office.

Garden plantings of yucca are also practiced. The versatility of culture rivals its docileness and excellent adaptability to the conditions on offer. This publication is devoted to Yucca, her preferences, cultivation techniques and care stages.

Yucca - a native of the hot Mexican deserts and the subject of botanical disputes about its place in the hierarchy of families, periodically wanders from one to another. So, having been part of the Lileiny and Agavovs, today she officially belongs to the Sparzhevs. Leaving scientific disputes aside, let us turn to a plant whose number of species does not exceed 30. All of them are evergreen, sometimes called false palms, divided into two categories: tree-like and stemless. The first group forms a slightly branched or non-branching shoot crowned with a decorative bunch of spirally arranged long saber-shaped leaves. At home, tree-like representatives grow up to 10-12 m, in the conditions of apartments and offices - no more than 2.

Yucca garden - a heat-loving shrub or low tree cultivated in the southern regions, produces an inflorescence from the middle of a leaf rosette, which is sprawling panicles of large (up to 7 cm) light bells. The length of the peduncle sometimes reaches two meters in height. The resulting fruit is a box with round black pea-seeds up to 1 cm in diameter.

Of the stemless species, the most lime is filamentous yucca with bluish-green xiphoid leaves with a pointed apex, reaching 0.7 m. It is extremely decorative: the edges of the leaves are pubescent with many white, thin, twisting threads.

A worthy decoration of the garden, the filamentous yucca blooms annually, releasing a two-meter peduncle with a huge bunch of creamy white bells. This is a cold-resistant species that can endure short-term frosts at a temperature of -15-20˚С. However, high-quality shelters for the winter are required.

Indoor species usually do not bloom, although there are exceptions.

Advice! You can make yucca bloom if you place the plant in a fairly cold place in winter, for example, on a warmed loggia. The laying of flower buds occurs only in such extreme conditions.

It is on the indoor types of yucca that the information presented later in the article is focused.

Cultivation

The yucca palm, as it is often called, is very loyal to flower growers: it does not put forward any special requirements, practically does not get sick, is not afraid of pests, and can only be petty in response to improper care. But since knowledge of the stages of quality care will significantly facilitate the work of the grower and increase the decorativeness of the culture, we will list them.

Lighting and temperature content

The southern origin of the yucca largely determines its love for bright light and dry air. She does not care for direct sunlight, because in places of growth she endures the scorching heat of deserts and semi-deserts, but she does not endure drafts.

Therefore, it is preferable to arrange the location of the container with yucca near the southern windows, and in summer - on sunny balconies and loggias.

Important! The duration of daylight hours for yucca is 15-16 hours, so in winter the plant must be highlighted.

The usual room temperature suits the yucca. The thermometer readings are considered optimal in summer - 20-25˚С, in winter 16-18˚С, but not lower than 10 ºC. Taking care of yucca at home in winter is especially important, since failure to comply with the required daylight hours and elevated temperatures can play a trick on yucca - the leaves will become thinner and fall off.

Growth Features

It will take quite a long time to grow a culture: the slow growth of yucca is its kind of calling card.

Therefore, it is easier (but also more expensive!), To purchase an adult plant in the store.

How to regulate watering

Drought-resistant yucca needs reasonable moderate watering: moisten the culture as soon as the soil surface dries out by 5-7 cm. At different times of the year, the frequency of watering changes: in summer they are more often, in winter less often. The reference point in any period remains the drying of the soil surface.

Important! The darkening of the tips of the leaves will tell the grower that watering needs to be reduced.

top dressing

Yucca is very indifferent to the fertility of the soil, it prefers foliar top dressing with mineral fertilizer solutions, which are carried out during the active period, spraying from a sprayer on the undersides of the leaves twice a month. The concentration of solutions should be halved compared to the norm specified in the instructions.

In winter, yucca is not fed.

Transfer

The slow growth of the plant allows for spring transplants at intervals of 2-3 years.

Advice! The acquired culture is transplanted into a new container 2-3 weeks after purchase, giving it time to adapt.

Yucca is a fan of neutral or slightly acidic soils. The optimal composition of the soil for transplantation is as follows: humus, soddy land, river sand or vermiculite in a ratio of 2 * 1 * 1.

Dishes for the plant must meet the following criteria:

• the diameter of the new container exceeds the previous one by 3-4 cm;
• depth - 2-2.5 times the diameter;
• any deformation of the container walls is excluded, i.e. it should not be brittle or ductile.

Be sure to use drainage - fine gravel or expanded clay, which is laid on the bottom of the container with a layer a quarter of the height of the pot.

Advice! If the culture has a healthy appearance, then it is easier to transfer it to a new container, filling the voids with fresh soil. If the yucca shows signs of malaise, you will have to pay attention to the state of the root system, clearing the soil, washing and removing rotten fragments.

Root sections are treated with charcoal, and the plant is planted in a new container with a suitable soil mixture. When the yucca reaches an impressive size, it is not transplanted, but only the top soil layer in the pot is replaced annually.

seed method of reproduction

The culture reproduces well by seeds. Before planting, they should be scarified, that is, pricked or otherwise damaged in the dense skin of the seed to stimulate germination. Sow in a light soil mixture of soddy soil and perlite in equal proportions, deepening to a height three times the height of the seed. The containers are covered with glass or garden film and placed in a bright and warm room with a temperature of 25-30 ºC.

Important! The main task of the grower during this period is to maintain high soil moisture in seedlings, as well as daily airing of crops and cleaning the condensate that forms on the glass.

Seeds usually germinate in 4-5 weeks. When the sprouting seedlings get stronger and release 2 leaves each, they are dived into small separate pots and a week later they are fed for the first time with a solution of nitrophoska (1g / 1l). Repeat the same top dressing after 2 weeks. Yucca with formed 5-6 leaves is considered an adult. Nevertheless, the time from the moment of sowing the seeds to the formation of a tree is impressive, therefore, vegetative propagation of yucca is more often used, which somewhat speeds up the process.

cuttings

Spring is considered the optimal period for cuttings - the time before the onset of the active phase. But it is possible to cut the cuttings, or rather the layering formed on the trunk, until August.

Advice! The viability of the cuttings is stimulated by keeping them for 10-12 hours in a dry, cool room.

After this procedure, the cuttings are placed in containers with perlite and supporting vertical skewers. Plant pots with cuttings in the light and in heat - conditions similar to those in which seeds are germinated, i.e. with an air temperature of 25-30 ° C, high humidity and bright lighting. Usually, a mini-greenhouse is used to place containers with cuttings or a place is allocated in a greenhouse. The cuttings take root in 20-25 days, and after another month they can be planted in separate containers.

Stemless species, for example, filamentous yucca, successfully reproduce by root offspring: yucca babies with an already formed root system, separated from the mother plant, take root in 2-3 weeks.

Trunk parts as planting material

Thanks to good tissue regeneration, several new plants can be grown from a piece of the trunk of an overgrown yucca. To do this, the top of the plant is cut off with a sharp knife and, having treated the sections with activated charcoal, and then slightly dried, they are placed in water to form roots.

Advice! If possible (or desired), cut off part of the trunk and put it in a container filled with wet sand. Sleeping buds, once in a humid environment, start to grow and release shoots with roots. Subsequently, the trunk is divided into parts according to the number of seedlings and rooted in separate pots.

The hemp remaining in the container is looked after like a plant, reducing only watering. Soon fresh leaves will appear on it.

Such procedures will help not only propagate, but also make the yucca more fluffy, since young foliage after trimming the top makes just such an impression.

So, the features of growing an exotic Mexican, which perfectly adapted to Russian conditions, are listed. Proper care will reveal its potential in all its splendor.

Today it is precisely established that the Yucca plant (Yuka) is a genus of evergreen plants that belong to the Agave family. However, recently experts believed that this is a plant of the lily family. You can often hear the plant called " yucca palm". At the same time, yuca has nothing to do with palm trees. It is in Mexico and Central America - the birthplace of this plant, where Yucca grows. In total, there are thirty types of plants, which are divided into two groups: with a stem and tree-like. When Yucca is found in nature, its height can reach 12 meters. At home, the plant does not exceed two meters. It can be used as decoration of an apartment or office. The plant does not require special care.

Yucca flower: home care

As already noted, indoor yucca does not require special care. The most important thing for Yucca is a good degree of illumination of the room. The fact is that yucca in the wild is found in the desert or semi-desert. It is obvious that there the plant is in the heat and in the sun.

That's why at home you need to place a flower near the window on the south side. However, if other windows in the room are well translucent, then you can put a plant there.

It is noteworthy that yucca does not bloom at home. In the wild, the plant produces an exuberant white color that pleases whoever meets it. However, if you place a yucca planter in a warm place in winter, it is likely that small flowers may appear. But this happens extremely rarely.

indoor plant, photo

Yucca room grows rather slowly. Therefore, especially impatient people are advised to immediately purchase an adult plant. The popularity of yucca is quite large, and besides, the flower is expensive.

In order for the yucca to develop normally at home, it needs up to 16 hours of light per day. Obviously, in winter, additional lighting will be needed. The rest of the flower care is simple. If you forget about it, then nothing will happen to the plant.

Photo of a garden variety

So, in order for the flower to grow well, it must be placed on the south side in a room where there is a lot of light. As soon as the soil dries out to seven centimeters, you can begin to water the plant. In order to water five liters of soil, you need about 1.2 liters of water. Tap water must not be used. You need to push her a little. If the leaves at the tips give a dark shade, then the plant is heavily watered. In summer, for a yucca palm, +25 degrees is considered normal, and in winter - at least +10. It does not matter what the humidity in the room will be.

In the warm season, starting from April and ending in August, you need to fertilize the yuca flower. Complex mineral fertilizers are used, which are easy to purchase today in flower shops. Do not apply fertilizer immediately after the plant is transplanted.

Photo: reproduction at home

Do-it-yourself yuca transplant

As soon as we see that the old pot is small for the plant, we need to transplant. This is done in the spring. If the plant is sick, then it also needs to be transplanted. The soil should be fertilized, with a sufficient amount of humus. Acidity should be medium.

Expanded clay is placed at the bottom of the pot - drainage. Be sure to buy as deep as possible a florist. If the plant did not hurt, then the earth from the roots can not be separated - just plant it in a new pot. When transplanting, it is advisable to inspect the root system so that there is no rot on it, otherwise the plant will disappear.

If in winter the yucca plant is in the heat, but with a small amount of light, the leaves will become thin and begin to crumble.

All methods of breeding yucca at home

Therefore, it is very important to keep the plant in a cool room with plenty of light in winter. For example, the plant can be moved to the balcony if it is not possible to lower the temperature in the room.

Reproduction of room yucca

Yucca is well propagated by seeds. Before planting, they need to be soaked, while removing the hard shell. Seeds are planted not deep in sandy soil, watered, and then covered with polyethylene or glass. We place the florist in warmth and light - up to 25 degrees will be enough. After the plant appears, it must be dived into small pots. In parallel, top dressing is carried out. As soon as five leaves appear, the yuca can be transplanted into large pots.

As we have said, yucca develops slowly. It will take a long time for the plant to become a mini-tree. But you can carry out reproduction before the tree appears. Cuttings are a great way to do this. It is best to carry out cuttings in early spring. But some flower growers propagate the plant all year round. After the cutting is cut, it must be left to dry for 12 hours. Then we stick the cutting into the perlite. If there is enough light and heat, then in a month roots will appear. It is advisable to spray the plant with water during this time.

Possible diseases and pests of yucca

Very often, yucca is harmed by insects, such as caterpillars, aphids, mites, and so on. Most often this happens with improper watering. On sale there are special tools that allow you to heal the plant. However, the yuca is very rarely sick.

It also happens that yucca gives yellow leaves. Some flower growers are sounding the alarm, they say, the plant is disappearing. In fact, this is a natural process when a flower sheds old leaves. But you need to be careful, as yellow leaves can cause illness.

Yucca varieties

Now let's talk about some types of yucca. So, aloe yucca(yucca aloifolia) is a perennial plant that has a straight stem. The leaves are shaped like swords, especially at the top. Their length reaches 50 centimeters.

The most common type is Elephant Yucca(Y. elephantipes or Y. Guatemalensis). In the wild, this is a fairly tall tree that has 75 cm leaves. In room conditions, the plant reaches one and a half meters in height.

filamentous yucca(Y. Filamentosa) has almost no trunk. With the help of offspring of the root, the plant develops horizontally. Even a 20-degree frost is not terrible for this plant, and therefore garden yucca can not be dug up for the winter. The leaves are 70 centimeters long and 4 wide.

The following varieties and varieties are also popular and grown at home:

• glorious (Y. gloriosa),
• radiant (Y. radiosa),
• gray (Y. glauca),
• southern (Y. australis),
• Treculya (Y. treculeana),
• short-leaved (Y. brevifolia or Y. arborescens),
• lapel leaf (Y. recurvifolia),

Yucca or dracaena

Very often they ask how to distinguish yucca from dracaena? There are species of dracaena that look very similar to yucca, for example, Dracaena aletriformis Dracaena aletriformis or species Dracaena fragrant (massagena) Dracaena Massangeana (not variegated). The differences are:

• yucca has small teeth along the edge of the leaf: a noticeable roughness along the edge of the leaf, if you draw from the tip to the base
• yucca leaves are tougher, denser, on young crowns stick up straight
• the edges of the leaves in yucca are usually straight, in dracaena often with a slight waviness (the leaves themselves are softer)
• in yucca, the top of the leaf ends in a prickly thorn
• yucca has reddish roots, sometimes quite intense shade, dracaena roots are always white
• with the same crown size, a yucca trunk is always thicker than a dracaena

How to care for yucca

Question: Tell me how to care for yucca, different sites advise different things: will its trunk grow, or just leaves?

natalie: Yucca loves sunlight, I personally have it on the southern windowsill, which is not shaded by trees. In winter, there is always not enough light, and the south window is just right. But in the summer, sometimes shading may be required during the hottest hours - at noon on a sunny day. In the center of the room, a yucca should not be placed at all, if it is large and grows in a tub or a large pot on the floor, then it should be placed by the window. It must be watered so that the earth is not wet, the top layer of the earth must necessarily dry out. Water should not remain on the pan, but spray very well 2 times a day, but only in the heat, or if there is a battery nearby. At other times, spraying is not necessary at all.

Yucca is too susceptible to overflow - it rots easily, so make drainage at the bottom of the pot and make it high enough, a layer 2 fingers thick.

Yucca care at home - in the section of the Encyclopedia of indoor plants.

irinabahus: Mine is on the south window, I can't stand it on the balcony. Do not be zealous with watering, and everything will be fine. A friend gave me a stalk about 10 cm from the rotten trunk of her yucca. For three years, my "handle" became more than a meter, the trunk began to stiffen. You have to transfer twice a year. Yes, and in winter, when there is central heating, every day I spray all the flowers, and the yucca too. I don’t spray in the summer, but I wash it once a week - it is in the kitchen.

Regarding the growth rate of yucca: it will grow from a small cutting, but the trunk will not grow in height soon. On my yucca, the trunk formed after two years, now she is 5 years old, the trunk is a little more than 20 cm, and the yucca itself is 2 meters.

barsuchok: the trunk grows very slowly in height, the foliage grows faster.

Question: transplanted Yucca after overflowing about 2-2.5 weeks ago. It stands unchanged, it has a leaf inside, so every morning I come up and see if it has grown or not, if it has grown, then the crisis has passed. And another question - is it important which room, south, west?

irinabahus: Actually, it's not the room, but the amount of light. There should be more light on the south, but if a house is blocking it, a tree or something else, then it can turn out the other way around. My yucca is on the southern windowsill, it doesn’t seem to complain, but one of the members of the forum (Oksana) has a luxurious yucca in the entrance, where there is absolutely no light at all. Maybe the fluorescent lights are on all the time, and that's fine. I usually determine that there is very little light when the plant either begins to stretch sharply towards the light, stretch unnaturally, or completely stops growing.

Grey: From personal experience there was exactly such a story and with my yucca I can say the following:

1. 2-3 cm depth for transplanting is normal, I don’t advise deeper - the trunk will rot!
2. Very careful watering! Better underfill than overfill!
3. No drafts!
4. Optimal temperature regime (within the limits of possibilities and real conditions of detention).
5. Do not cut off, do not cut off the yellowed sheets, let them fall off on their own.
6. Since the planting is not deep, support it with 2-3 bamboo sticks, or plastic, but not iron, the metal tends to oxidize, ruin the soil!
7. The most important lighting! Preferably in winter from 16 to 22 hours backlight!
8. If it is not near the battery, it is better not to spray yet! From spring to September, it is better to take it out to the balcony, but remove it from direct sun. During this period, I do not spray at all!

Yucca at the Encyclopedia

Yucca leaves drop

Question: In my yucca, the leaves do not stick up, as they should, but hang down a little (like a dracaena), I spray it, water it after the earth has completely dried!

natalie: If your yucca is large, that is, the leaves are long (more than 20 cm), if she feels well and there are no signs of illness, then such drooping of the leaves is normal. They droop as if from their own weight. However, if short leaves droop (up to 15-20 cm), especially if they are sluggish, then this is from excess moisture in the ground. It just seems to you that you are not flooding, but try to dig under the ground and touch inside - how wet it is. In rare cases, in the heat, the leaves may droop from overdrying. Therefore, you need to rely only on the state of dryness or moisture content of the soil inside the pot.

Question: A week after the purchase, the leaves of the yucca began to dry, then the leaves drooped and dried out. For some reason, a small process simply fell off, although it was green. What am I doing wrong?

natalie: Most likely, your yucca suffered from systematic waterlogging. Yucca leaves are dense, so they look like they are drying out from overflow, but this is a deceptive impression. Repot, inspect the roots, if you don’t have drainage in the pot, do it. Only transplant before watering when the ground is dry. Firstly, it is easier to scatter the old earthen clod, and secondly, to check if the plant has been flooded - normally, the soil should be dry before the next watering.

Make the drainage high - about three fingers high, so it's better to protect yourself from overflow. Do not tamp down the new soil strongly - it will cover itself. If the lighting is good, then the yucca can be sprayed less often, in a day or two. Yuccas suffer much more from a lack of sun in winter than from dry air!

Irina Gorsh: I advise you to carefully feel the trunk. The big problem is the softening of the trunk, an alarm signal. Look deeper into the soil, maybe only the top layer is dry, and the bottom one may not have time to dry. I have a yucca in a small pot, and I water it once a week, and then poorly, yuccas often suffer from overflow.

sweetie: When my yucca leaves began to droop, I changed the watering regime - I practically didn’t water at all! Spilled with phytosporin-m (dilute the paste). But previously transplanted into fresh soil for yucca. I cleaned the roots, but did not wash them - I rinsed them in a bucket with diluted phytosporin. Drainage made 10 cm (I have a high pot). I didn't water for a week after transplanting.

Question: At first, the yucca leaves were juicy green and stretched upwards, but now they are sluggish and pale.

But recently the baby fell off. The process rotted right on the trunk. What can be done?

Puffy: Dry the earthen ball! Take the flower out of the pot onto the newspapers, and change its "diaper" if it's overflowing, which I think it is.

Elena: An additional reason is the lack of light - if there is little light, overflow occurs faster, more often, because with a lack of light, the processes of photosynthesis and growth slow down, metabolism is inhibited and the need for moisture decreases, and you continue to water as if it "worked" in the light.

Yucca has a hole in its trunk

Question: When transplanting yucca (due to waterlogged soil), I found a large void on the trunk under the bark. A month or a little more has passed, and now the lower leaves are turning yellow and at the same time new healthy leaves are appearing.

Irina Gorsh: If new leaves grow healthy, then it does not bend. If the conditions for yucca are normal (in short: in winter - coolness, more light, including sunshine and infrequent watering), everything should be fine. For the future, if flooded, do not immediately grab a transplant, especially in winter. It is enough, depending on the root system, to take a stick selected in width (the thinner, the better) and pierce it to the base of the pot in many places. The earth will dry out quickly and will "breathe" in a day. Another thing is if the root system has already begun to bend, and there are external signs of "wrong" with the plant, then when transplanting, remove the "dead" roots without touching the "live" ones and plant them in another land.

Question: I felt the trunk, well, it seems to be hard near the ground, but in those places where the kidneys have died, it is not that soft, it seems to be empty.

Berry: If the trunk is solid (even with an air gap) - not everything is lost, the main thing is that there is no rot, that it is not soft. You need to provide it with good light and observe.

natalie: The bark of the yucca becomes looser or dries out from changes in moisture, in this case the soil.

If the soil is always evenly moist, then there will never be swelling, the bark fits snugly against the core of the stem. In one case, the bark will swell if the yucca is heavily flooded, rot under it, the plant dies. In another case, the bark begins to flake off, but the soil has time to dry out, rot does not form or dries up, the trunk develops, but the void remains. There is always an alternative - cut off the tops and root, grow a new plant.

Yucca - reproduction

Question: My yucca is dying from waterlogging of the soil, I am trying to propagate: I rooted two offspring in a pot (without roots), covered with polyethylene. I don’t know if it is possible to make cuttings from the trunk and also root?

Anna: Just put the cutting (cut off the top) in a jar of water. Do not pour a lot of water so that it covers the trunk by 1 cm no more, so that it does not rot, and periodically add water (it evaporates). In a week, the yucca will have roots. Wait until small lateral roots grow about 3-4 cm, and plant in the ground. Most importantly, don't overdo it. But in winter, for the rooting of yucca, additional lighting is needed!

Alice: Yucca reproduces vegetatively quite easily, but only if it is light and warm, and the biorhythms of the plant are on the rise. Try not to prune yucca just like that in autumn or winter, the best time for breeding is from late January to June. You can also in July, if there is no heat. If the temperature is above 27C, it is also not good, the cuttings will not have enough strength to absorb moisture during rapid evaporation by the leaves. Therefore, if you cut a large sprig of yucca for rooting, you need to cut off some of the leaves, leaving 4-5 maximum.

How to save a yucca

Question: I flooded the yucca and it started to rot. How can you save what's left?

Veta: If the roots are rotten, then just try to re-root the top.

freya: In any case, immediately pull out of the pot! If at least something remains of the roots - cut off all the rotten ones, sprinkle the living remains with charcoal, dry them, plant them in suitable soil, drain well. Soil for planting - dry, do not water immediately. On the second day, pour (not much) water with heteroauxin or zircon. Cover with a package (only fix the package along the stem, not the pot!) If the roots are all rotted, try rooting the top, as mentioned above.

Question: Yucca leans strongly to the side, you have to prop it up with a stick. I thought the roots had rotted, but I don't know. Moreover, her bark does not fit tightly at the trunk. But at the same time, new leaves appear normally.

irinabahus: If you don’t like the slope at all, try tying it to a stick and gradually straighten it. But first look at the trunk. It must be solid. It is necessary to water the yucca really carefully, in no case do not fill it. Better to let it dry. It is not necessary to spray it. But if the earth is wet, you can remove it from the pot, dry the earth a little and put it back. At the same time, you will see the roots.

Yucca leaf tips dry

Question: The ends of the leaves of the yucca dry, this is from a lack of moisture, right?

svPooPs: Dry ends - lack of moisture, only if it's hotter than 26 degrees. Then you can spray and even need to, once a day. But I spray mine much less often and she does not complain. The main thing is not to flood it. Water once every 1.5-2 weeks, so that the earth must dry out. Dry leaves underneath are normal. But there are dry ends, from overfeeding with fertilizers, if the soil has become alkaline (then hard water and fertilizers), and if the leaves hang over the battery, from which hot air comes.

Question: For a year and a half, my yucca has grown by only 1-2 leaves. And they write that it is a fast-growing plant, and in some it gives up to 2-3 new leaves per week! What am I doing wrong?

IrinaP: One reason is the small pot. Have a good habit after buying a plant not to wait a long time with a transplant, a maximum of two weeks. Shop land is not the best soil for yucca, peat is very hygroscopic. The systematic waterlogging of yucca for the time being goes unnoticed, the plant simply fights with all its might so that the roots do not rot, for the growth of an insufficiently powerful healthy root mass. Make up your soil: take garden soil (bake it in the oven), add coco and zeolite for looseness, about a fifth of the volume of the pot. Yucca needs to be watered once every 1-1.5 weeks (approximately).

Ferret: If the yucca is sitting in a small pot, it should be watered every day, but the earth should have time to dry out. It is in large pots watered once a week. But you don’t need to delay the transplant, after the purchase - transplant in a week! And feed after a transplant in 2-3 weeks. But don't overdose.

irinabahus: It is generally believed that yucca loves loose pots. In any case, her root system is very powerful. But another reason for the slow growth of yucca is the lack of light. This is a southern plant, in addition to feeding from a pot, she needs good light.

Yucca - leaves turn yellow

Question: Yucca leaves turn yellow - at first the leaves began to lose color, they became very light. They do not dry, do not get wet - nothing, they grow as usual, only very light in the outlet. The place has not changed - it has been standing on the north window, without sunlight for the fifth year already. And now it's getting brighter.

Natali: Option two:

• The first is the lack of light. At first, the yucca was small, and there was enough lighting for the entire bush. In five years, she grew up, stretched out in growth, and she began to lack lighting. The best way to confirm this is to rearrange to a bright place, the leaves darken and grow larger in just a week.
• The second - if the leaves brighten from the inside of the outlet, and with yellowness, perhaps they fill it - dig up the ground and try to determine the soil moisture inside the pot, it should be dry there by the next watering.

Leah: And my yucca turned yellow in the shade, it stood in the far corner of the room, and as soon as it was transferred to the windowsill, the lightening stopped, and it turned green again. I have a south side, however, the balcony is glazed, but it is still very light, and all summer it stands on the balcony with a slight shading, it grows and pleases.

Question: In yucca, young leaves turn yellow, first one, then it dries up, and then the entire process. It costs me 2 meters from the window (in summer on a glazed balcony), I water it as it dries out (in summer - every other day). I rarely fertilize, about once a month (Pocon is a green generator, it seems). A pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, a trunk height of about a meter. All the young shoots that were at the time of purchase have already fallen off. There was one on a large trunk and one on a small one. But the new ones won't come out. When transplanting in the spring, I found that the trunk was deeply buried in the ground (7-8 cm), I dug it out a little. Now she leans over and doesn't hold well in the pot. Maybe this is the case and it needs to be buried back?

freya: The southeast is good, but 2 meters from the window is a lot, there, without additional illumination, a rare plant will feel good at all, but yucca is clearly not one of them - it is not a plant of the "lower floor", which is content with the fact that falls to him. As a representative of rather arid regions, she is used to growing in direct sunlight. To get started - move it closer to the window, if not on the windowsill, then as close as possible! She can simply “not pull out” young shoots due to a lack of nutrition, caused, of course, by a lack of light.

natalie: Yucca should be on the south window. She lacks light, which is why the leaves turn yellow, but most likely you have not one reason, but two - also constant waterlogging. The trunk can be buried in the ground, but to prevent decay, dig it out of the ground, and so that the trunk does not roll, does not fall, tie a support. One important point: yucca on healthy powerful roots will never collapse and fall. If she tends, the roots are weak, they were flooded, they are not enough. You can temporarily press the trunk with a couple of stones, but the main thing is to create conditions for building up new roots that will hold the trunk themselves.

How to water yucca

Question: The leaves of the yucca have become light green and fall down, wither. Stands on the floor near the balcony on the south side. I spray 3-4 times a week, I water rarely, because. I'm afraid to fill it up again, about 1 time in 2 weeks. Recently fed. The trunk is solid.

natalie: There is a catastrophic lack of light, if you do not move it to a more sunny place, it will die like a freak. Watering may be too infrequent.

irinabahus: And once every two weeks watering - isn't it enough? It is better to navigate not by the number of days, but by the state of the earth. I water when the ground is dry on top (well, at least once a week, it turns out). You can also measure the acidity of the soil - suddenly acidic, sometimes the lightening of the leaves indicates that it is necessary to spray with iron chelate. And one more thing: there is usually a draft under the balcony door, maybe put it on the windowsill for now?

natalie: To resolve the dispute - to water a lot or a little, I will say right away that it depends primarily on the density, porosity and moisture capacity of the soil, as well as on whether there is a lot of free land or roots in the pot.

It is necessary to adapt to your microclimate in the apartment and the ability of "your" soil to absorb and evaporate water. Even if two plants are planted in the ground from the same bag, the watering would still be different. Someone has a larger pot or drainage holes, someone has a higher temperature in the room, more leaf mass (evaporating surface), etc.

If the roots occupy more space in the pot than the free earth, then you need to water more abundantly than if the roots occupied only a small space of the pot. And of course, in plants that do not tolerate overflow, the soil should be checked not from above, but in the depths of the pot. Just to the depth of a finger - that is. about 10-12 cm, if wet - do not water! Since it is technically difficult to do this, I propose to determine by the weight of the pot - just remember how much it weighs approximately when the earth inside is dry.

And still it is necessary to distinguish the dying leaves:

• if they just drooped - most likely, the matter is waterlogging,
• if they curl along like a tube, then either there is not enough moisture or light.

Yucca easily tolerates rather dry air, but will get sick if it does not have enough light. Never spare light for her - feel free to put additional lamps in autumn and winter, and in summer on the south window. With lower lighting in autumn, the need for watering is also sharply reduced. Everything is so subtly connected that experience comes not with months, but with years. Forget fertilizing altogether if you're new to floriculture, just repot every year. There are as many holes in the bottom of the pot as possible, drainage is at least 2 cm. Measuring acidity will most likely not give you anything, since yucca is not as demanding of it as, for example, gardenias or azaleas, and the soil for palm trees is quite suitable in composition.

But it is not necessary to allow the formation of salt deposits on the soil surface.

Yucca from the store, what to far

Question: 2 months ago they gave me a yucca, I was afraid to transplant it in the winter. The leaves began to turn yellow, and not the lower ones, but as it should. They turn yellow and then dry up. Recently transplanted. The root system is good, not flooded, not overdried, only the roots were woven: it was cramped for him. What with her?

Elena: Yucca is very photophilous and the leaves may turn yellow due to lack of light. Therefore, after the purchase, the yucca must be determined for a permanent place on a sunny windowsill, but the first two weeks should be given for adaptation: do not transplant and shade from the hot sun at noon.

Yucca: care features

When the yucca adapts to your microclimate (combination of temperature, air humidity, lighting), you need to transfer (without disturbing the roots) into a larger pot, always with drainage at the bottom. And again leave alone for a month and a half, only then you can start feeding. All this time, look closely at the plant, because you can bring pests and diseases from the store. If there are any stains, pour several times with phytosporin. While on adaptation, you can spray with stimulants and growth regulators.

irinabahus: It could also be an adaptation. Young yucca leaves are always more light green than old ones, they then turn dark green. Now, when there is little light, it is better to put it on the windowsill, in the most illuminated place. And water less often, and it’s still good to loosen the earth so that there is air for the roots. And, of course, two days is not a time for conclusions, we must observe. By the way, those sheets that have begun to turn yellow will dry out anyway, so you can not react so sharply to this.

Yucca content
The optimum temperature for keeping yucca in summer is + 20 ... + 25 degrees, in winter at rest - about + 10 degrees. In the cold season, yucca should be protected from hypothermia and drafts; a sharp drop in temperature most often leads to the death of the plant.
If the temperature is too high in winter, combined with a lack of lighting, the yucca grows: the bases of its shoots are strongly elongated, the leaves become thinner, brighten and hang, losing their natural density and juicy color. On a weakened yucca, pests appear (spider mites, mealybugs); her leaves turn yellow and fall off.
Yucca species that are sensitive to dry air should be regularly sprayed with boiled water at room temperature from a fine spray bottle. To increase the humidity around the yucca, you can place the plant pot on a pallet with a moistened layer of gravel.

Transplantation and reproduction of yucca at home - photo and video

When spraying yucca in the sun, sunburn spots can occur on its leaves.
The most common types of yucca in indoor floriculture - elephant yucca (Yucca elephantipes) and aloe yucca (Yucca aloifolia) - do not require spraying.
The frequency of watering yucca depends on many factors: the size and material of the pot, the size of the plant, the characteristics of the substrate, temperature and humidity.
In the warm season, yucca is watered abundantly - but only after the top layer of soil has dried to a depth of about 5 cm. At a moderate temperature (+18 degrees and slightly higher), large yucca is watered about once a week; 2-2.5 liters of settled water at room temperature is one-time for 10 liters of soil. In hot summer, yucca is watered more often; but do not forget that between watering the earth in a pot should dry out.
During the rest of the year, watering the yucca should be moderate (watering is reduced in winter), otherwise its roots will rot due to stagnant water in the substrate, and the plant may die.
With errors in care, yucca leaves curl up into a tube, the edges and tops of the leaves turn brown; brown spots with a yellow edging appear on the leaves from the spread of a fungal infection.
You need to feed yucca in spring and summer, with an interval of two to three weeks. This plant responds well to fertilizing with infusion of mullein, horse manure, leaf humus. Belarusian fertilizer "Peat Oxidate" (a product of peat processing) is perfect for feeding yucca and other houseplants.
You can feed yucca with complex mineral fertilizers - carefully, dilute solutions. The best results are given by foliar top dressing (leaves are sprayed with a solution of mineral fertilizer from the underside).

You can not feed the plant immediately after transplantation, and also if the yucca is sick.
Yucca often grows with one trunk, but it can also be branched. In order to grow several tops in a yucca, choose a young, well-rooted plant with a height of at least 30 cm (the higher, the better).
In spring or early summer, during the growth of the moon, the top of the yucca is cut off with a sharp knife or blade (stalk 5-10 cm long), but leaves should remain on the stem - the more leaves, the better. Slices are sprinkled with crushed coal. The cut top of the yucca can be rooted (see the method below), and the remaining stem eventually grows new shoots from the awakened buds.
It is better to transplant yucca in the spring, or if necessary in the summer. This plant thrives in well-drained soil. When transplanting yucca to the bottom of the pot, be sure to pour drainage from expanded clay, fine gravel or broken bricks. Earth mixtures are better to choose medium. If a mixture with peat is used, then it must be neutralized to neutral values ​​(pH 6.0-6.5). It is desirable to add coarse-grained sand to the earth mixture (up to 30% by volume).
If, due to excessive moisture of the substrate, the roots of the yucca began to rot, and dark spots and softened areas appeared on the trunk - but at least a few leaves and part of the trunk remained light in color, hard and elastic to the touch, then you can try to grow new roots in the affected plant in two ways :

Yes need.

Indoor Floriculture:: Viewing Thread - Help Save Yucca

My article, but not about yucca, take a look, it may be useful to you. I took ordinary earth from the store, universal. _ Site "Room floriculture" photo album.

I want to transplant my yucca into a larger pot. – Forum – Yucca aloe leaf…

Full description Yucca aloefolia » Subject: I want to transplant yucca into a larger pot. Forum Search

Yucca: care and reproduction

The most common types of yucca in indoor floriculture are elephant yucca (Yucca elephantipes) and aloe yucca ...

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They gave me a yucca, I transplanted it into the ground for palm trees without washing the roots. Did you need to rinse?

Indoor Plants & Flowers: Yucca Frequently Asked Questions

Question: Tell me how to grow yucca correctly, different sites advise different things, I'm confused ... but will its trunk grow, or only leaves?

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Yucca: leaves turn yellow and dry, what to do?

I transplanted the yucca - the leaves began to turn yellow and dry in large quantities (the roots are not damaged). What to do?

Indoor Floriculture:: View topic - Cycas or sago palm

True, it is not very large yet - 6 leaves in total. He said that the idea was to give me Yucca (I have such a nickname), but he liked Tsikas more and ...

Spring and summer are the right time to transplant. Yucca thrives in a well-drained substrate.

Yucca: growing and breeding at home

When transplanting yucca to the bottom of the pot, be sure to pour drainage from expanded clay, fine gravel or broken bricks. Earth mixtures are better to choose medium. If a mixture with peat is used, then it must be neutralized to neutral values ​​(pH 6.0-6.5). It is desirable to add coarse-grained sand to the earth mixture (up to 30% by volume).

When transplanting yucca, it is desirable to preserve the earthen ball around the roots as much as possible, so it is better to transship rather than transplant a healthy plant. A drainage hole in the pot is necessary so that there is no stagnation of water in the roots. A transplant is required when the roots of the yucca begin to rot from excessive watering.

Watering, temperature and light are also very important for yucca. You can’t fill it with plenty of water - it will rot, the temperature is 16-18 degrees and indirect sunlight - then the leaves will be more powerful

It is better to transplant yucca in the spring, or if necessary in the summer. This plant thrives in well-drained soil. When transplanting yucca to the bottom of the pot, be sure to pour drainage from expanded clay, fine gravel or broken bricks. Earth mixtures are better to choose medium. If a mixture with peat is used, then it must be neutralized to neutral values ​​(pH 6.0-6.5). It is desirable to add coarse-grained sand to the earth mixture (up to 30% by volume).

The soil must be nutritious. For young plants - 2 parts of sod land, 2 parts of leafy soil, 1 part of humus and 2 parts of sand. For adults and old plants - 3 parts of sod land, 2 parts of leaf, 2 parts of sand. Yucca transplantation is carried out every two years in the spring. Yucca is planted in a large pot or tub. Good drainage is a must. From April to August, fertilizing is carried out every two weeks, which significantly accelerate growth.

When transplanting yucca, it is desirable to preserve the earthen ball around the roots as much as possible, so it is better to transship rather than transplant a healthy plant. A transplant is required when the roots of the yucca begin to rot from excessive watering. Rotten roots are very soft and spread under the fingers, the smell of rot emanates from such roots - they must be removed when the plant is transplanted.

Transplant by transshipment, without destroying the earthy coma. Drainage holes in the pot must be mandatory, a layer of drainage too. This is necessary so that there is no stagnation of water in the pot, otherwise the roots will rot. After transplanting, water the plant carefully for 2 weeks.

Yucca is a plant belonging to the Agave family. Native to Central and North America. This is a false palm. The tree stem may come to the surface. Most often, the upper part is represented by a basal rosette of leaves.

The xiphoid leaves grow in length by 25-100 cm, can be rigid or semi-rigid, erect or drooping, the edges can be smooth or serrated. The leaves of some types of yucca are very hard, their fiber is extracted for the manufacture of ropes, wickerwork.

Bloom

At home, yucca blooms extremely rarely. Numerous (about 300) bell-shaped flowers appear on a long peduncle. They are painted in white, yellowish, creamy green.

Is yucca poisonous to cats?

Yucca is not dangerous for cats: they are not interested in leaves, and if they scratch the trunk, then, contrary to popular belief, they will not be poisoned by the "poisonous" juice. The palm tree itself is more likely to suffer, and not pets.

How to care for yucca at home

Lighting

It is important to provide good lighting. Light day should be about 16 hours. It grows best at the south window; windows of east and west directions are suitable. In autumn and winter, resort to artificial lighting.

Watering and humidity

Excess leads to rotting of the root system. Water when the soil dries out to a depth of 5-7 cm. For 5 l. add about 1 liter of soil. water.

Most yucca species prefer dry air to moist air. Only a few will require spraying and occasional panning with humidifiers.

How often should yucca be watered in winter? With a decrease in the temperature of the content, reduce the number of waterings by about 2 times, trying only to keep the soil slightly damp.

Air temperature

In the warm season, keep the air temperature at 20-25 ° C. Budding takes place in cool weather, so if you're trying to bloom, make sure you overwinter in a cool place. With the onset of autumn, lower the air temperature to + 10-12 ° C.

Priming

The composition of the soil can be any, the main condition is air and moisture permeability. An important requirement is good drainage; for this, a layer of expanded clay or pebbles is laid on the bottom of the pot without fail.

top dressing

In the period April-August, every 3 weeks, apply complex mineral fertilizers along with irrigation or carry out foliar fertilizers on the leaves, spraying from the bottom of the leaves. Immediately after transplantation, as well as a diseased plant, you should not feed.

Yucca pruning at home

Remember, pruning is best done in early spring, before the start of active vegetation after a dormant period.

When the yucca is already too tall, you can, and plant the top like a regular cutting (we will talk about this below). The trunk is cut at a height of at least half a meter, and so that the succulent does not suffer from a strong loss of moisture at the cut point, they hold a candle above the cut, tilting it, so that paraffin flows there. You can also process the cut with garden pitch. Do not prune plants with thin trunks, less than 5 cm, otherwise they will not become thicker.

A cut yucca starts up new shoots at the place of cuts, which in turn turn into long trunks after a while. They are treated in a similar way: as soon as the length of the daughter apical trunks becomes too large, the tops are cut off.

Cut yucca and in case of softening of the trunk is a sign of decay. Then the apical part is urgently cut off and rooted in a light substrate, creating greenhouse conditions.

Is it possible to prune yucca in winter and autumn? In emergency cases, when the plant is sick, in order to save the apical part, pruning is done without delay at any time of the year. If pruning is planned, it is better to be patient and wait until March.

Yucca transplant after purchase and during the growing season

The first time after purchase, but the plant must first adapt to room conditions for about 2 weeks. Carry out a planned transplant in the spring every 2-4 years.

A slightly alkaline soil is preferred. A mixture of soddy soil, compost, humus, perlite and sand will do.

Yucca transplant on video:

The container must be stable and deep enough. Remove the plant from the pot, inspect the roots for rot. If it is found, cut the roots, treat with a fungicide, completely replace the soil. If the roots are in order, roll over with an earthy clod. Add soil, lightly tamp. Be sure to place a drainage layer at the bottom.

Growing yucca from seeds

The most commonly used seed propagation of yucca.

• Seeds must be scarified: carefully break the dense shell of the seeds with a needle or rub with sandpaper.
• Fill the box with a mixture of sheet, soddy soil and sand in equal proportions. Sow seeds to a depth of 2-3 cm.
• The distance between the seeds is 3-5 cm, but it is better to plant them immediately separately in cassette or peat cups.
• Cover crops with glass or film. Germinate at an air temperature of 25-30 ° C and bright diffused light.

• Ventilate daily, ridding the shelter of condensation.
• In the first 10 days, maintain a constant soil moisture, then moisten moderately.
• Shoots will appear in about a month.
• When 2 true leaves appear, plant them in separate containers with light nutrient soil.
• After 2 weeks, feed (1 g of nitrophoska per 1 liter of water).
• When 4-5 leaves appear, transplant into a pot and take care of it as an adult plant.

Reproduction of yucca cuttings

When the yucca becomes too tall, cut off the top of the trunk, divide the trunk itself into parts, depending on the number of shoots.

• Treat the cut sites with a fungicide and air dry until a dried crust forms.
• Root in a mixture of soddy soil and sand, creating greenhouse conditions, do not immediately water, the plant will have enough moisture in the damp soil.
• When roots appear, plant in a permanent pot and care for as an adult plant.
• The remaining stump of the mother plant will also give young shoots and continue to grow. Leave three to five shoots on it, remove the rest.

Reproduction by dividing the bush and side shoots

Propagation by lateral processes (daughter shoots) is best done in spring. Divide the overgrown bush very carefully into separate parts with a part of the rhizome and plant out, creating conditions of high humidity during rooting.

Why do yucca leaves turn yellow and dry Causes

Providing proper care will protect against diseases and pests.

• Yellowing, drying and falling of the lower leaves is a natural process. But if dryness extends to the upper leaves, most likely the air is too dry or the air temperature is too high.
• The tips of the leaves dry from lack of moisture.
• The appearance of yellow spots of an elliptical shape, which turn brown over time, indicate the defeat of brown spotting. Remove damaged areas and treat with fungicide (spray and water with phytosporin solution). Repeat the procedure 2-3 times every 10 days.

When the root system or stem rots, it is necessary to carry out an emergency transplant with the removal of rotten roots and fungicide treatment.

Pests

Thrips, aphids, scale insects, spider mites are possible pests of the plant, due to which the leaves of yucca also turn yellow and dry. First, wash them off with soapy water, and then treat them with an insecticide.

Indoor types of yucca

Yucca aloelifolia Yucca aloifolia

The shape of the crown is spherical, the leaves are hard, dark green in color, the trunk is gradually exposed.

Yucca elephant or giant Yucca elephantipes

The base of the trunk looks like an elephant's leg. The length of hard leaves is about 115 cm in length, width - 6-8 cm.

Yucca gray Yucca glauca

Dense leaf rosettes consist of leaves of a green-blue hue.

Yucca filamentous Yucca filamentosa

Leaf plates reach a length of 30-90 cm, threads hang down along the edges, which fall off over time.

If you plant several palm trees in an apartment, then a tropical forest is possible even on the 9th floor. To create such a paradise idyll will help the knowledge of how to competently carry out the reproduction of room yucca. In addition, in the future you will have to apply all the rules for caring for such an ornamental garden.

Very often, the culture is grown in the form of a trunk. To do this, cut off the top of a young seedling. Procedures are carried out when the height of the tree does not exceed 40 cm, and the cross section is 2 cm. As a result, 3 stems will immediately occur from this point.

Reproduction of room yucca

As it grows, the trunk begins to gradually become exposed. The leaves dry out only after 2-3 years. They are recommended to be removed. When forming a branched specimen, the upper part of the plant is cut off. It is she who will serve as a cutting. The bottom of the sprout is cleaned of excess greenery. Put the plant in water so that it takes root.

Another breeding option for room yucca allows you to increase the number of exhibits quickly enough. Basically, it is relevant when dividing a perennial culture (from 5-7 years old), which is already growing in the form of a bole. The essence of the process is that:

• first cut off one of the palm trunks;
• divide it into segments of 30 cm, and the top becomes a full-fledged cutting;
• treat wounds with activated charcoal;
• waiting for the cuts to dry;
• deepen them by ½ into the planting substrate;
• tamped and watered.

After a while, 3 to 4 bushes will appear on it. With a sharp blade, they are separated from the shoot along with the heel, and then planted in the ground. In some cases, it is simply left in the water. When the roots hatch up to 1 cm, the sprout is planted in the soil. The mother yucca will take on a stunning look in the future, as several buds will begin to wake up near the cut at the same time. As a result, their young and green mass will close the bare tree trunk.

Such a grand pruning of the trunk is carried out every 3-4 years or even less often. In this case, it is impossible to delete all its branches at the same time, if there are several of them.

The flowerpot is placed near the windows in the southern part of the house, since it will not survive in the dark. Water and spray regularly. Worth knowing, culture is under attack. It is difficult to fight an insect, because it has a strong shell, which closes when treated with poisons. However, the pest eats away the leaves in such a way that this leads to excruciating suffering of the flower. Therefore, gardeners take a cotton swab moistened with alcohol and carefully wipe the affected areas from the inside, as well as from the outside. Such procedures are done 3-5.

When watering, make sure that water does not accumulate between the trunks. Otherwise, a moldy fungus will start up or the root system will fester.

Reproduction of room yucca requires a lot of effort and time, but it's worth it. After all, the unrealizable dream of millions is to see the tropical jungle at least with one eye. And for some, it can even grow in a room.

Yucca is a beautiful plant that many flower growers dream of. In order to grow at home, you do not need certain conditions of detention. Behind this specimen, the reproduction of yucca is quite easy, if you have some knowledge.

Reproduction methods

Basically, yucca is propagated to get a new individual.

To root a young plant, you can prepare a soil mixture at home, which is prepared from the following ingredients:

• soddy soil (2);
• sheet soil (2);
• sand (2);
• humus (1).

If you don't want to bother with potting mix, then you can buy it ready-made at a flower shop. The main thing is to take care of the drainage, which is performed at the bottom of the tank, and in addition to add about 30% sand to the mixture.

Yucca propagation is carried out in the following ways:

1. Escape.
2. Seeds.
3. With the help of stem cuttings.
4. Top rooting.
5. Air layers.

Reproduction by shoots

Separating root or stem shoots from a mini-palm tree is a very useful procedure. For the purpose of good growth and further development, it is necessary to ensure that there are at least 5 sprouts on the yucca at the same time.

Rooting is done like this:

1. Cut points are recommended to be treated with crushed charcoal.
2. Cut shoots should be planted in vessels with moistened sand, and watered, and then covered with a bag.
3. For a young yucca at home, you need to create a certain temperature regime of 20 ° C and normal humidity.
4. "Parnichok" is recommended to air every day and, depending on the drying, moisten the plant.
5. The first roots can be seen in 2 months.

When the plant is fully rooted, it needs to be transplanted into a tank already in advance with prepared soil, and that there must be charcoal in the soil.

Reproduction by seeds

Yucca very rarely blooms indoors. Since, in order to form flower primordia, the mini-palm tree needs a long cold wintering in the fresh air.

Although if the grower is lucky, and he received seeds from a flowering yucca or bought in a store, it is permissible to grow a plant from them, subject to certain rules.

First, make sure the seeds are fresh. Then place them in warm water for 24 hours.

Then you need to prepare a soil mixture of their following components:

• sod and sheet soil (1);
• sand (1).

For normal germination, it is necessary to organize conditions close to greenhouse, so that there is good humidity and heat. With the help of a bag or glass, it is required to cover the seedlings.

The bag must be removed every day so that the seedlings are ventilated. The first shoots can be expected in about 30 days.

Propagation with stem cuttings

In this method of propagation, it is necessary to take cuttings from the trunk, which are cut from the plant.

Then you need to do the following:

1. It is necessary to put part of the trunk in a horizontal position in wet sand or loose soil. From above, the cutting should not be covered with soil, you just need to press it down a little into the ground.
2. After a certain period of time, the dormant rudiments of the trunk are activated and release new processes, at the same time releasing the roots.
3. Later, it is necessary to pull out the trunk from the sand mixture, cut it with a knife into several parts (how many processes, how many parts should the cutting be divided into). After separation, Charcoal should process the cut places. Then you need to dry the shoots.
4. The next step is to plant each sprout in separate vessels with soil.

In addition, in a specialized store you can buy the same part of the yucca trunk. To understand where the bottom and top are, usually, the top of the handle is poured with wax, which is removed after disembarkation. For good rooting of such cuttings, it is advised to take the following steps:

1. Initially, it is necessary to lower the lower part of the cutting into a special solution for 3 days; for this, a growth stimulator is used, like Heteroauxin.
2. Then it is worth planting the treated part of the cutting in the ground, while lowering it 4 cm deep.
3. The soil in the pot with the rooting plant should be constantly moist, but not too wet.
4. When leaves appear, the frequency of watering should be reduced.
5. Then, depending on the drying of the soil, it is worth watering.

If you purchased a cutting without a mark (no wax), then root according to the rules described above, place it horizontally on the soil, and then divide the resulting shoots into parts.

Rooting the top

This specimen almost never branches, and therefore grows purely on one trunk. An adult individual that is normally rooted, with a height of at least 30 cm, can be forced to branch. To do this, perform some tricks.

In spring or summer, you need to cut off the top of the plant about 10 cm long with a knife or blade. It is recommended to perform such actions during the growth of the moon.

All cuts are sprinkled with charcoal. Then you need to let the cutting dry for two hours in the air.

Then it is required at home to plant the cutting in wet sand or place it in a jar of cool water. To prevent the cutting from rotting, charcoal is added to the liquid.

If the cuttings (lower leaves) rot, then you will feel a disgusting smell. In this case, you need to remove these leaves, and change the water.

Try to prevent rotting of the stem of the cutting, so watering must be carried out when rooting with restraint.

When the first roots are formed, you can dive into a permanent container. In the place where the apical cutting was cut off, new processes will grow from the awakened buds.

Propagation by air layering

In addition to the above methods, yucca also propagates at home by air layering.

If you notice that the root system of the yucca is rotting, and there are still healthy and hard areas, then it is possible to grow new roots for it and reproduce in the following way:

1. Take a good look at the yucca and then, where the healthy areas (take 10 cm above the rotten area and below the top of not less than 60 cm), you need to remove the bark around the circumference of the trunk with a stripe of 0.5 cm.
2. It is necessary to use wet sphagnum moss, and cover the cut areas and the area a little higher with it. Then wrap it all in plastic wrap. Moss must be constantly moistened with a sprayer.
3. After 20 days, new roots can be seen a little above the cut.
4. Then the next 2 weeks it is required to continue growing the roots in the same medium, regularly spraying the moss.
5. In the future, it is necessary to cut off the upper section of the yucca with fresh roots slightly below the area of ​​\u200b\u200bbark removal. Then it is recommended to take crushed coal and powder the cut area, dry it a little and plant the cutting in a tank with a new substrate mixed with sand.

So, we found out that breeding yucca at home is not at all difficult and even interesting. If you take your time and put in a little effort, then you will have the opportunity to get a beautiful and amazing yucca that you cannot take your eyes off.

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