Sharpening machine for drills do-it-yourself drawings. Homemade device for sharpening small diameter drills. How to grind a victorious drill

Drills for metal are hardened during production, but they gradually become dull anyway. Of course, you should not immediately throw them away. You can sharpen a drill for metal yourself using special equipment.

Types of devices for sharpening

To properly sharpen the drill, you need to use special devices. They fall into two categories:

• industrial equipment. Has great power. Through it, it is possible to sharpen drills with a radius of one centimeter. These devices are installed in large enterprises. Sharpening is semi-automatic/automatic;
• household equipment. Designed for home use. In addition, it is used in small enterprises. This equipment is mobile, compact, has standard power.

When purchasing a machine, you need to take into account the noise, design features of the device. It is optimal to buy a conventional machine, because it is easy to find suitable spare parts for it.

You need to purchase grinding devices only in special places, because they have a technical passport attached to the machine. In addition, the buyer receives a warranty card.

The use of grinders in the home

For the home, household machines are considered the best option. Through them it is possible to sharpen different types of drilling tools. It is worth considering that for certain types of drills you will need to buy special circles.

In order to carry out sharpening with your own hands, you must choose a machine that is equipped with a universal chuck. It makes it possible to clamp parts of different sizes.

The buyer, along with the grinding device, is often provided with:

• elbor circles;
• keys;
• collets;
• replacement parts;
• lighting device for the workplace.

The most common drill sharpeners are Drill Doctor, GS. These machines are designed for sharpening drilling tools with a radius of 0.2-3.4 cm. Such equipment is unable to sharpen too thin objects. To do this, you need to buy a special machine.

All equipment that is intended for sharpening tools at home:

• can work from the mains;
• high performance;
• easy to operate;
• functional;
• provides precise sharpening;
• is inexpensive;
• compact;
• weighs little;
• conveniently managed. It is possible to change the intensity of sharpening, its speed.

How to make a grinder yourself

First of all, you need to purchase a control device. It is required in order to check how accurately the work is done.

For drills designed for processing various metals, you need to make a different edge angle. Below is a list of workpieces and corresponding edge angles:

• steel, cast iron, bronze - 115;
• brass, copper - 125;
• aluminum, ceramic, granite, wood - 135;
• magnesium - 85;
• silumin, plastic, textolite - 90.

After reviewing this list, it is possible to make several templates and, accordingly, to sharpen them with your own hands. The same drilling tool can be used for different parts. You only need to change the angle of the workspace vertex.

A simple but very effective device for sharpening a drill is considered to be a base on which bushings of various sizes are fixed. Remember that the object must not shake in the sleeve. The slightest deviation will lead to a significant decrease in the quality of drilling processing.

It is desirable to have a tube holder made of aluminum / copper. You can also make the required number of holes in a block of soft material. Mount a handy tool on the grinding wheel that allows you to move at the required angle a home-made tool for sharpening drills, which serves as a stop element.

Currently, there are various drawings of grinding devices. You can use an existing one or create your own. Do not forget that when sharpening a tool, you must not allow the drill to scroll around its own axis.

After sharpening, allow the tool to cool down. Measure the accuracy of your work with a template. Edges should be symmetrical. This is especially true for small radius tools.

Using an electric drill

Certain people prefer to use an electric drill, which is equipped with special nozzles, as the basis for a sharpener. Of course, the number of nozzles is limited. Therefore, manual sharpening is difficult. The set with nozzles comes with a stone and a leash.

If you want, you can make your own nozzle. This element of the grinding device must be equipped with a fastener for fixing the tool.

Sharpening features

If you decide to sharpen the tool yourself using sharpening tools, follow the procedure as follows:

1. Carry out the processing of the back. Firmly press the tool, control that the sharpening angle does not change. At the end of processing, the end of the tool will become like a cone.
2. Now sharpen the cutting surface.
3. At the final stage, the rear end is finished. Make sure that the jumper size does not exceed four tenths of a millimeter. Of course, for a large instrument, this indicator should be slightly higher.

If something doesn't work out for you, don't be discouraged. It is advisable to train on drills, which, most likely, will not be useful. The main thing is to learn the correct pressure and exposure of the angle. Remember that the holes drill the sides of the tool, not the tip. Therefore, the edges must be sharpened without fail.

Do not forget that when processing the drill, the smallest particles appear. Because of the heat, they fly in different directions. In view of this, safety rules must be observed. Use special glasses, gloves. Also, make sure the tool is secure, otherwise it will fly out of your hands.

If you want to use a do-it-yourself drill sharpener, be sure to prepare the work area. Take care of proper lighting. In addition, do not forget to wear special gloves, goggles.

1. First of all, calculate the desired sharpening angle.
2. Your sharpening stand should be such that the grinding wheel is on the right side.
3. Perform centering. To do this, grab the work area with your thumb and forefinger, and hold the tail edge with your other hand.
4. The drilling tool must be rotated so that the cutting surface is parallel.
5. Do not forget to eliminate nicks and other irregularities.
6. All movements must be done in a certain order. For example, the left hand must be moved down from the left side, and the right hand must be moved clockwise.

Conclusion

It is not very rational to purchase industrial equipment for sharpening drills, as it is expensive. For domestic needs, an ordinary household machine or a sharpener made by you is optimal.

To avoid mistakes when sharpening a metal drill with your own hands, you need to use a special device. It can be a household / industrial machine tool, an electric drill with a special nozzle. The nozzle is put on directly on a drill for sharpening of drills. If you haven't tried to sharpen your drilling tool before, watch the tutorial video below.

Be sure to follow safety precautions. Ignoring simple rules, not using protective clothing can land you in a hospital bed. Sparks in the eye are no joke. There is a high chance of completely losing sight. Agree, it's better to just wear special gloves and goggles than put yourself at risk of serious injury.

The technological process of mechanical processing of materials includes many different operations, which require high-quality and sharp tools. So, in a mechanical workshop at any machine-building enterprise, a set of turning, milling, drilling and more complex machines can be used. They use their own type of tool, for each of which there is a specific method of sharpening.

Features of the drills

Machining of metal is associated with huge loads on the tool. In general, it consists of three main parts: connecting, body and cutting. So the cutting part is a small wedge-shaped element designed to penetrate the metal and remove part of it from the workpiece.

If, for example, everything is clear in a turning tool or a disk cutter with the shape and design of the cutting part, then when processing holes on a drilling machine, everything is much more interesting and complicated, so you need to know how to sharpen the drill correctly. This is a tool designed for axial metal processing. That is, the feed movement is directed strictly along the axis. This should be considered before sharpening the drill for metal, because the wrong cutting angle will lead to vibration and breakage.

The main elements of the cutting part of the drill

Before sharpening a drill for metal, you should familiarize yourself with the design of its cutting part, which includes the following elements:

1. Main cutting edge.

2. Auxiliary helical cutting edge (ribbon).

3. Jumper.

4. Front surface.

5. Back surface.

What is needed for sharpening?

At the enterprise, everything necessary for the restoration of the instrument is always at hand. But the home master has to look for an alternative to high-quality factory fixtures in simpler solutions that can be used in an ordinary garage. And yet, before sharpening a drill for metal, stock up on a minimum set:

1. Grinding wheel. It must be mounted on a rotating shaft. The device is popularly known as "emery". Very common in the garage.

2. Capacity for coolant.

3. Coolant (water or machine oil).

In order to withstand the angle of sharpening the drill, such a set may not be enough. After all, you will have to control the process "by eye", which is unlikely to work out without some experience. In this case, the basic kit also needs to include a tool for sharpening the drill, which you can buy or make yourself.

Controlled parameters

When everything is ready, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with some theory in order to have an idea about the main parameters of an axial cutting tool. Before you sharpen the drill correctly, you need to know its angles:

1. Front. Defined in the main cutting plane (running perpendicular to the main cutting edge) as the angle between the rake face and the main plane (perpendicular to the cutting speed vector). It is directed tangentially to the circle of the drill.

2. Rear. Also defined in the principal shear plane as the angle between the flank and the cutting plane (passes through the velocity vector and the cutting edge).

3. Corner at the top located between the two main cutting edges when viewed from the side of the drill.

The optimal value of the front angle is 18-20 degrees, the rear one is 10-12. The corner at the top in drills for metal has a standard value of 118 degrees.

Sharpening process

Now let's talk about how to sharpen a metal drill on ordinary sandpaper. The main sharpening of this axial tool is carried out on the rear surface. To do this, turn on the emery, firmly take the drill in your hand so that the main cutting edge is directed towards the rotation of the grindstone. Now we bring the edge to the grindstone, after which we turn the drill by the shank so that the cutting edge is parallel to the surface of the circle. We do the same operation with the second cutting edge. The result is the so-called simple sharpening of the drill, which is optimal for most metal processing modes.

Simple sharpening is used for drills with a diameter of up to 10 mm. By increasing this parameter, you can additionally perform a subpoint of the front surface. As a result, the rake angle decreases, which means that the thickness of the blade (the so-called cutting edge angle) and, accordingly, the drill life increases.

Sharpening with a fixture or machine

The method described above can be called artisanal, since it is simply impossible to achieve precise control of the drill parameters directly during sharpening. In the best case, you will check the angles after sharpening is completed, and in the worst case, you will simply check how much better the drill has become. And how to sharpen a drill?

Of course, for this it is better to use more advanced options that will allow you to tune in to certain angles in advance. In this case, you will need a device or machine for sharpening drills.

If the scale of work in your workshop is large enough, and regrinding of the tool is required constantly, then purchasing a machine will be optimal. It will greatly simplify the process, especially if you need to regrind carbide drills for metal. The main advantage of its use is the exact observance of predetermined parameters. With a large amount of work, it is unacceptable to use an incorrectly sharpened tool, as this will lead to a decrease in productivity. Modern grinding machines allow you to obtain various types of drill sharpening:

1. X-type. Mainly used for drilling in blind holes. Designed to reduce axial cutting force.

2. XR type. Used for universal drills. Cutting into the material is somewhat worse than in the first type, however, such drills have increased strength and durability.

3. S-type. It uses the sharpening described above, which also allows you to increase the life of the drill in the processing of various materials (from cast iron to stainless steel).

4. N-type. A subpoint is also used, but of a smaller size. Drills with this sharpening are used for deep drilling.

Fixture design

As it has already become clear, manual sharpening of a drill is the business of a professional who not only knows the correct angles, but also feels the cutting process. Unfortunately, such a flair comes only after many years of practice with a drilling machine or drill. You should not experiment, as you can make your own or purchase a sharpening device. In both cases, it will include the same structural elements and work on the same principle.

So, the main task of the fixture is the correct orientation of the drill relative to the plane of the grinding wheel. To do this, its design includes a base plate, on which it is desirable to place both the device itself and the electric motor, on the shaft of which the grindstone is located. There is also a rotary column on the plate, on which the drill is fixed. It must be able not only to rotate, but also to move towards the grinding wheel.

As a column, you can use any bearing assembly with a shaft, for example, from an old drill. A drill bed is fitted on the shaft rings (you can use an adapter sleeve), to which it is pressed with screws. After fixing the drill, the grinder drive is turned on, the column is brought to the grinding surface and rotated to give the back surface of the drill the correct shape. It is important that during the initial setting of the fixture, the angle at the top of the drill is 118 degrees.

Sharpening nozzles

Another simple and convenient way involves the use of a device such as a nozzle for sharpening drills. Its main advantage lies in its versatility and ease of use. The device has a cylindrical shape. On the one hand, there is a connecting node, through which the nozzle is installed on the drill spindle. On the other side there are holes for installing drills of a certain diameter. For sharpening, the drill is inserted into the hole, after which the sharpening mechanism is driven by the drill motor.

Security measures

The sharpening of the drill is associated with the formation of small particles that break away from the sharpener during wear. They heat up and scatter in different directions in the form of fiery sparks, so for safety, you should use goggles and gloves.

When sharpening a drill without a tool, make sure to securely fix its position. Otherwise, upon contact with the sharpener, it can simply be pulled out of your hands.

How to make a tool for sharpening drills. Device for manual sharpening of twist drills. Some time ago, I accidentally stumbled (meaning the author of the article, see source) on the net to very useful video tutorials by V. Leontiev on manual sharpening of twist drills:

But then an idea arose how to make sharpening drills even easier and more convenient. As a result of reflections and experiments, the device described below appeared. First, it was necessary to modernize - to bring to mind the existing factory-Chinese (like German) grindstone. Because it was almost impossible to work with him using the techniques of V. Leontiev.

Electric grinder of factory-Chinese production.

Flimsy standard handbrake bracket.

Unsuitable for work design of the handbrake.

Firstly, the bracket for attaching the handbrake to the disc casing is too flimsy, made of metal 2 mm thick. It bends with little effort. Therefore, naturally, the sharpening angles are +/- kilometer! And the shape of the handpiece absolutely does not allow you to make a normal back angle according to the V. Leontiev method, since the drill rests against the corner of the bracket when lowering the shank. Moreover, the handbrake itself is installed BELOW the axis of the disk. That is, there is no way to get a normal rear angle at all, unless you use the end surface of the disk.

The plane of the platform of the handbrake is much lower than the axis of rotation of the disk.

New handbrake bracket.

For a normal bracket, a piece of metal with a thickness of 4 mm, a larger size, and additional mounting screws were used. The old bracket was fastened with two rivets that had to be cut off. Now the new bracket is much stiffer than before. Also, from pieces of a corner and a strip, a horizontal shelf of a handrest with additional mounting holes was welded. Its position can be adjusted within certain limits.

Comparison of the thickness of the metal in the new and old handpieces.

The new bracket is attached at 5 points.

Fixture details. Bracket. Handyman. Swivel plate...

Next, the device itself was made directly. It is a turntable with a welded bushing that can swing on an axle fixed in an eyelet, which in turn is attached to the hand rest. From above, a guide plate for drills is attached to the rotary plate, in which a triangular groove is selected.

Assembly device. Plate in a horizontal position.

Assembly device.

Sharpening device.

At first, instead of this plate, a guide was tested in the form of a piece of a corner (as in the video by V. Leontiev), but this option is not at all suitable - it is difficult to fix the drill normally (it tries to run to the right when it touches the disk), especially since it also requires feed forward when forming a back corner. In general, the corner (it is in the photo) is completely unsuitable.

Device in the down position.

Working with the device resembles the movements of the author of video tutorials, only instead of a finger and an eye, the swing axis and the set angle of sharpening the drill are used. It is much more convenient with the device to control the parallelism of the machined cutting edge of the drill to the disk. You just need to turn the insert down and press the drill into the groove so that the line of the cutting edge is parallel to the plane of the insert - the axis of oscillation of the insert. This moment is shown in the photo.

Installing the drill on the handpiece to the grindstone.

First, the edge itself is formed. When processing the back corner, it is necessary to simultaneously lower the plate down and feed the drill itself forward to the disk. It is necessary to try to prevent the drill from rotating around its axis when forming an edge and processing a back corner. I control the symmetry of the edges in the same way as in the video tutorials. By the way, instead of a swinging plate, you can install a piece of a corner with fixed angles on the handpiece - sharpening and back - this is for sharpening carbide drills. It is only necessary to determine in place the required length of the sides of the corner to obtain the desired rear sharpening angle, since it also depends on the diameter of the disk and the location of the handpiece relative to the axis of rotation of the disk.

Installing the drill in the guide slot of the plate.

Drill setting control. The cutting edge of the drill is parallel to the plate surface.

Guide slot configuration.

Device for manual sharpening of twist drills.

The quality and accuracy of drilling depends on the sharpness of the working tool. In addition, unlike a table knife, the drill must be sharpened correctly. Experienced locksmiths can level the cutting edge on a conventional grinder by simply holding the drill in their hands (at least according to them). But this method requires skill and many years of experience. Even if you have a steady hand and an excellent eye - without understanding the process, you will simply ruin the instrument.

A few basic sharpening rules (for example, spiral drills for metal):

For a better perception of the material, let's remember the device of the drill.

• You can not press the tip to the emery for more than 2-3 seconds in one go. The metal is heated and the so-called "release" occurs, that is, the deprivation of hardening. Accordingly, the required hardness of the metal is lost. The first sign is the presence of temperature tarnishes on the edge.
• For drills with a diameter of up to 4 mm: at each touch of the emery plane, the drill is held in one position: rotation around its axis is unacceptable. For a larger diameter, the sharpening geometry is somewhat different.
• On spiral drills, only the back surface of the cutting part is sharpened.
• The cutting edge should be directed towards the rotation of the sharpener (with mechanical sharpening).
• The main angle (in the illustration - 2φ) depends on the type of material being processed.

Which drills to sharpen and how often?

Feather and other special wood drills do not restore at home, and they do not get dull so quickly. Pobedite tips for concrete are not sharpened in principle. The most popular tool remains - twist drills for metal. Of course, they are also used for processing wood (plastic, rubber and even stone), but this is not the topic.

Spiral drill. The cutting edge has a small size, therefore, during operation, it quickly heats up from friction (there is no dispersion area). The main reason for blunting is overheating. With proper use, wear is not as intense. Characteristic features of a blunt drill:

• A creak is heard during operation.
• Instead of curled chips, sawdust comes out of the hole.
• Instant heating of the tool without advance in depth.

Important: Do not work with a blunt drill, wear from overheating will only progress.

So, it's time to sharpen the tool. You do not want to spoil the drill, and you want to mechanize the process.

At your service are mini sharpening machines:

All devices are divided into two types: nozzles or stops for a universal tool, and independent devices of a narrow specialization. Consider the most popular of them, from simple to complex:

This is just a device for those who have a steady hand and a diamond eye. In fact, it only allows you to hold the drill in a given position without fear of injuring your fingers. The control of the angle is visual, according to the position of the "wings" relative to any landmark. There are few advantages: instant readiness for work, compactness and price. The disadvantages are obvious: manual control of the process does not add accuracy.

In fact, this element is not a special tool for drills. It simply allows you to fix the tool at a certain angle. The accuracy will be higher than in the previous version. Most stops allow you to set the angle of inclination, and even have a marking scale. And yet you have to rely on the firmness of the hands.

There are also more advanced stands: with interchangeable elements and adjustment of not only the angle, but also the height. Devices are mounted not on the body of the emery, but on the workbench: which makes them more versatile.

In fact, such an emphasis can be adapted to any electric grindstone. An additional bonus - with the help of such a stand you can sharpen knives, cutters, screwdrivers, chisels, etc.

Semi-professional guides for all types of drills

This is a fairly advanced tool that allows you to control sharpening characteristics to the nearest micron. All linear parameters are securely fixed, the values ​​are set according to the markup. The drill is fixed in the chute, accidental displacement or rotation around its axis is excluded.

For sharpening, the possibility of both linear movement and movement of the edge along the arc path (for conical sharpening of large diameter drills) is provided. Linear movement (along the axis) can be controlled by the master, or a limit stop can be set.

From the point of view of the quality of processing, there are practically no shortcomings in the device. But for proper sharpening, the operator must know the parameters of the drill. That is, there is no automation: therefore, the tool belongs to the category of professional.

As a development of the line - a guide with its own sharpening unit. There is no need to set the emphasis on the workbench and change the discs. In fact - you have a semi-automatic desktop sharpening machine.

Important note: All of the listed accessories are designed to work with standard electric sharpeners. Therefore, before starting the processing of drills, it is advisable to install a special emery disc.

They are specialized power tools for a single task: sharpening twist drills.

Even a person who is far from technology can use the machine (although why does he need sharp drills?). The operator is only required to determine the diameter of the drill and plunge it into the appropriate hole. It is convenient to work, errors are practically excluded. However, all drills are sharpened “one size fits all”. The price paid for ease of use is the lack of flexibility in settings. For home use - the best choice: especially if there is an additional attachment for sharpening knives and scissors.

There are versions for masters. The drill is installed taking into account the sharpening parameters, the process can be controlled by the operator.

The angle of sharpening, the method of processing the edge (linear or conical), the depth of metal removal are selected. The drill is located not in a common holder, but in an individual cartridge.

Industrial sharpening equipment for a metalworking shop

With intensive use of drilling machines, a separate post is required to restore the tool's performance. Professional stands for sharpening drills of any diameter save time and effort, but the cost of such equipment is too high for home use.

The information obtained will help you choose a sharpening device, without extra financial costs. In addition, there are interchangeable nozzles for hand-held power tools (for example, a drill). But that's a topic for another article.

If you are constantly dealing with sharpening hard workpieces, then the surface of the drill will become unusable very quickly. It will become dull, get very hot and eventually lose its former strength. All this is a consequence of the "letting go" of the metal. That is why such a tool needs periodic sharpening using special devices.

How to make homemade devices for sharpening drills, what templates exist for this and what you need to prepare for work, you will learn from our article.

Features of sharpening drills

Drills are inexpensive devices, especially if we talk about those that are widely used for domestic needs. However, if possible, then after blunting it is better to sharpen the tools than to buy new ones.

There are factory-made sharpening devices, but you will spend a lot on buying them, and this will not make up for the savings if you refuse to purchase new tools. That is why many masters collect machine tools for sharpening by hand.

It is worth noting that blunting applies to metal drills, since wood tools are practically not affected, except when used at high speeds with a resinous workpiece. Also not subject to sharpening Pobedite tips for stone or concrete.

But many drills for metal are sharpened using all the additional devices with their own hands, but the accuracy of such work is far from always ideal, so it is advisable to use at least a minimum of mechanics.

How to make a do-it-yourself drill sharpener: a tutorial video

To make such a device yourself, you will need a control tool (template). No matter how the drill is sharpened, the accuracy is checked by a special template.

Simple drills for ferrous metal have an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If the metal is different, then the sharpening angles will also be different:

You can prepare right away multiple templates depending on the listed values ​​​​and, in accordance with them, do sharpening with your own hands. The same drill can be used for different types of workpieces, you just need to change the angles of the top of the workplace.

A simple but very convenient dragging device is bushings of various sizes that are attached to the base. You can make them yourself, based on special drawings. Remember that the tool in the sleeve should not dangle, and the quality of drilling may deteriorate even if the error is only one degree.

You can make a large clip based on aluminum or copper tubes, depending on the typical parameters of the drills, or you can take a bar of soft material and make many holes in it. In the grinder, it is very important to put a convenient handrest, thanks to which it will be possible to move the sharpening device at the right angle and hold the stop.

The listed sharpening devices have been manufactured for many decades in a row and are still in demand. For sharpening machine assembly with your own hands, you can take an oak bar instead of a corner.

The simplest sharpening machine can be assembled by simply placing a workbench or table opposite the side of the emery. Even such a simple device provides high quality and accuracy of work.

Features of sharpening on a simple device

On the Internet you can find finished drawings devices for sharpening drills, or sketch them yourself, but for this you should understand the principle of working with a drill.

During work Absolutely forbidden allow the drill to move around its axis. If it turns at least a millimeter, it will be damaged, and you will have to grind a small distance for re-processing.

After finishing work, the drill should cool down, also measure with templates. The edges must be perfectly symmetrical down to tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important if the drill has a minimum diameter.

Sharpening may be accompanied by such errors:

As from improvised means with your own hands assemble a grinder for twist drills for metal?

For the basis of the device, you can take any grinding machine that is able to work properly, there is no axis beating in it, and it keeps the speed under load.

The task looks like this:

• the handist must strictly stand horizontally on the same axis with the rotation of the emery;
• the design must be safe, reliable and durable;
• it should be possible to sharpen both manually and semiautomatically;
• the shape of the handpiece should facilitate the free lowering of the drill shank to the desired angle.

Specific parts for the manufacture of this device are not required, almost every home master has everything you need. Workpieces are processed grinder, welding or grindstone.

For the semi-automatic mode, a rocking stop is assumed, so you need to make a loop connection. Pick the right one for lack of backlash bolt, bracket and tube holes.

The platform must move vertical axis so that you can change the angle of sharpening the drill. This axis can be fixed, and the hand rest should swing, while leaning on the horizontal axis, which provides the desired articulation during sharpening.

Base plate made of metal 4 mm thick, and the main parts of the structure must have a thickness of 3 mm, respectively. This ensures its high strength. The handpiece with the body of the emery is rigidly connected. It is impossible to fasten it to the protective casing, therefore, use the metal "cheek" to screw the bracket.

Then we fasten the guide plate for drills with a thickness of 5 mm to the base plate. In it, to fix the drill during processing, it is sawn triangular groove.

The design has an angle of rotation of 90 degrees, which allows you to provide z sharpening by different methods. Starting from the Leontiev method and ending with pressing at a certain angle and creating an acute edge angle due to the curvature of the emery.

The drill during processing will not only stand firmly in the groove, it can also be fed along the groove to the abrasive, and the sharpening angle will not deviate. Due to the partial excess of the plane of the base plate above the axis of movement of the disk, it is possible to achieve the desired shape of sharpening the back of the edge.

Before performing work, the drill should press on the plate and set the cutting edge parallel to it. The adjustment is over and you can bring the tool to the emery. Sharpening must be done slowly and carefully, carefully monitor the angle.

Thanks to this homemade tool, high sharpening precision and almost no template is needed. True, it will take time to install the machine and adjust the angle, but then you sharpen drill bits quickly in the right amount.

But if you need to sharpen a drill equipped with a carbide nozzle, then you can attach a swinging plate to a fixed angle. To do this, put several washers under the axle nut.

Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

For universal grinding work, white circles based on electrocorundum are mainly used. They are used for sharpening shovels, axes, knives and metal blanks.

In order to process carbide drills or high-speed metals, it is necessary to take abrasive green wheels based on silicon carbide marked 64C. But for domestic needs, the grain size of the circle is enough for 25N.

Sharpening drills requires a finer fraction in the area from 8N ​​to 16N. Remember that silicon carbide emery gets very hot during operation, so the drill cannot be kept in contact with such an abrasive for a long time. Let the metal cool down after 2-3 passes and chill it in soda water.

Edge quality depends on direction abrasive rotation. Its working surface must run into the cut (go from top to bottom).

Peripheral emery surface during processing must be even. It can be edited with a nozzle based on CBN. If the disc has a small diameter, it is allowed to use pliers, in which the elbor cutter will be held.

So, we looked at how at home you can assemble and use devices of varying complexity for the purpose of sharpening drills and more. You can choose the appropriate option depending on your household needs.